Connect with us

Life style

Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train journey

Published

on

By Zinara Rathnayake

I was woken by the long, forlorn sound of the siren. The brakes hissed and screeched as our train chugged up the hill and pulled into Radella, a station along one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world: the Colombo to Badulla railway.

“The journey is so enthralling that you don’t want to take your head out of the window,” said Dayawathie Ekanayake, who has travelled extensively by train across the island during her career as a finance consultant. “It makes you feel constantly in awe. You wonder about what comes next – is it a waterfall? A stupa-like tea garden? Or is it mist-clouded peaks? You never know. You just have to keep looking.”

Since my first journey along this route seven years ago, I have returned numerous times, eagerly jumping off the train to explore towns and hamlets flanked by tea estates. The 291km track takes in a mix of deep gorges, craggy cliffs, cascading falls, lakes and rivers from Sri Lanka’s west coast into its mountainous interior. It twists and turns through 46 tunnels, snaking past high montane canopy with bright red rhododendrons and wild ferns, a fragment of the native hill country forest cover left untouched by British colonisers. On a bright day, sun-drenched hills stretch down to the glistening southern coastline from the train window as far as the eye can see.

This slow, 10-hour long journey might be inconvenient for the modern-day traveller, but it’s so enchantingly scenic that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

It’s not just the views that has travellers in awe. The train journey itself has become an Instagram sensation in recent years, with travel bloggers risking their lives to take photos of themselves hanging off the door as the train rumbles past rickety bridges (some of them have been criticised for their dramatic poses). Yet, the journey is also tied to Sri Lanka’s colonial history and gives passengers a deeper understanding of the island-nation.

During British colonisation in the 19th Century, Sri Lanka was the third-largest coffee exporter in the world. As demand rose, it became expensive to ferry coffee on bullock carts from the central mountains to Colombo for shipment, especially with road conditions deteriorating during the monsoon months. Estates had to therefore store their coffee for long periods of time, causing the quality and value to deteriorate. So British estate owners pushed for a rail system to transport coffee. In 1867, the British completed a railway from the city of Kandy in central Sri Lanka to the coastal city of Colombo.

“The British didn’t build railways to help locals travel,” explained Sanka Abeysinghe, naturalist at the luxury boutique hotel chain Teardrop Hotels, who also conducts railway hikes for resort guests. “They designed railways to transport estate produce.”

I boarded the train in Colombo, leaving the muggy heat and low country farmlands to slowly ascend towards the rocky mountains surrounding Kandy. Cutting through rugged terrain, the train climbed 426m over a 21km stretch, passing through 12 tunnels, hugging treacherous curves along the mountains and soaring above thick tropical jungle.

After leaving Kandy, we passed fertile riverine valleys, and entered Sri Lanka’s hill country. Tea flourishes in these damp, wet highlands, so, “when tea became prominent, after the coffee rust epidemic – a fungi disease that hindered the coffee trade [in 1869] – the British wanted to extend the railways to transport tea from the mountains to Colombo,” Abeysinghe explained.

In the 1870s, the British began to expand the railway from Peradeniya, a railway junction near Kandy, extending the route to the terminal station Badulla in 1924. This 178km-long stretch involved navigating through rainy, forested mountains, steep ridges and a series of sharp twists and turns by building an impressive mix of bridges, viaducts, tunnels and embankments. It took 52 years to complete.

We pushed out of the mountains, and over the next three hours we passed small and well-kept British-era railway stations like Galboda and Watawala, which were built solely for the purpose of transporting tea from each estate. We sluggishly ascended past Hindu temples tucked in tea gardens, small housing settlements where the tea estate labourers live, and turpentine forests shrouded in swirling mist. Sometime after leaving Hatton – the gateway town to Adam’s Peak, a holy mountain for pilgrims of all faiths – we entered the Poolbank Tunnel, the longest of the 46 tunnels at more than half a kilometre in length.

“You cannot really see the light at the end of the tunnel here,” Abyesinghe said, chuckling.

From here, young passengers eagerly hung from the door to see the gushing cascades of the spectacular St Clair’s Falls through tea bushes. Cold air drifted in from the open windows and rising mist cloaked the towering Great Western mountain range. Many passengers got off the train at Nanu Oya, a tea-country town where visitors can tour the plantations and learn about the history of tea on the island; but I stayed on board, climbing up to Pattipola, the highest broad gauge railway station in the world. From here, we finally left the cold central hills, travelling past dairy farms towards the sun-drenched south-eastern mountains.

After a couple of hours later, we pulled in at Ella. Over the last decade, this once-sleepy village has turned into a lively tourist hub with cafes and bars lining the streets and people posing for photos in front of the picturesque Nine Arch Bridge, a viaduct with nine arches that soars over tropical jungles of plantain trees and areca nut palms and has become one of the most photographed spots on the island.

Flanked by thick jungle and tea plantations, the bridge was designed by British engineer Harold Marwood, but according to folklore, it never would have been built were it not for local knowledge.

It’s said that during World War One, when it was difficult to source steel from Europe, British engineers had to rethink the bridge design. Since colonial rulers had little to no knowledge about local construction materials, a Sri Lankan builder chipped in to help. Locals completed the engineering marvel using only bricks, stone and cement.

Looking out of the train window, I gazed at the 90m-long viaduct rising through the trees, connecting Ella to the highland town of Demodara. The British also needed a way to manage the steep incline of the terrain from here. “The climb was too abrupt to handle for the engines,” Abeysinghe said.

Again, folklore gives credit to locals who found a way to solve the problem by creating a spiralling track. As we reached Demodara Loop, the train halted at Demodara for passengers to deboard, snaked around a hillock and re-appeared from a 134m-long tunnel right beneath the station.

According to legend, local engineer DW Wimalasurendra worked at the site and thought of this spiral design after seeing a kankami (a tea estate worker who manages South Indian labourers) tying and re-tying his turban. The cutting-edge engineering allowed the train to avoid the steep climb.

We were nearing the end of the journey, and the train slowly descended to the sleepy, terracotta-roofed town of Hali Ela to terminate at the city of Badulla in the lower central hills.

As we pulled into the station, I realised that despite having travelled extensively around the world, I’ve often felt happiest during this slow journey through my own country. In many ways, as the train snakes past the century-old tea bushes, British stations and settlements of tea-estate communities, it quietly reveals the story of an island to those willing to put down their phones and look for it.

Rail Journeys is a BBC Travel series that celebrates the world’s most interesting train rides and inspires readers to travel overland.– BBC



Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Life style

A nation comes together: Business, compassion and public service unite to protect Sri Lankan women from cervical cancer

Published

on

Distinguished guests covering a wide spectrum of society

In an emotionally charged and inspiring gathering that brought together business leaders, healthcare professionals, philanthropists and community organisations, Sri Lanka, this week, reaffirmed its determination to defeat one of the country’s most preventable yet devastating diseases—cervical cancer.

The event was more than a formal announcement of financial assistance. It was a story of legacy, compassion, partnership and hope. It was also a reminder that when private enterprise, government institutions and civic organisations stand together with a shared purpose, lives can be saved and futures protected.

At the centre of the initiative was a renewed commitment by Dilmah and the Fernando family to continue funding cervical cancer screening programmes, in partnership with the Ministry of Health and Rotary.

The programme, which has already helped thousands of women through early detection, will receive a further Rs. 50 million this year, enabling 20,160 additional screenings.

This follows an earlier Rs. 75 million commitment made in January 2024 under a Memorandum of Understanding signed between Dilmah, Rotary and the Ministry of Health.

A Son Honours a Father’s Vision

Delivering one of the most moving speeches of the event, Dilmah Chairman/CEO Dilhan C. Fernando reflected on the values of his late father, Merrill J. Fernando, founder of Dilmah, whose philosophy continues to guide the company.

Fernando said his father began his journey in 1950 not merely to create a successful tea business, but to build a company that would improve lives and protect nature.

“My father started on a mission to make the world a better tea,” Fernando said. “Now, better tea is always welcome because it implies good taste, but his vision was quite different. It was about tea that would have an impact on the lives of people and on natural ecosystems.”

He said he and his brother Malik were blessed to steward a business that values kindness to people and the environment as much as profit.

“Businesses do not exist to make profit. Businesses exist to create value,” he said. “Value begins with people and livelihoods. It continues through nature, which is an inextricable part of welfare. And if you get those two right, then you have the right to secure economic value.”

Fernando said learning that hundreds of Sri Lankan women were dying annually from cervical cancer—an entirely preventable disease—was deeply disturbing.

“It was something that was really quite abhorrent to us,” he said. “An entirely preventable form of cancer should not be taking so many lives.”

He said the contribution was not about publicity or recognition.

“We announce this not to boast, but in appreciation of all those who made it possible, particularly my father, because that is how it is possible for us to make this assistance.”

Thousands of Lives Already Touched

Fernando said the true value of the investment could not be measured in rupees alone.

“That value may seem like a big number, but it is insignificant when you consider that it has saved thousands of women from the scourge of cancer and in many cases helped them avoid late-stage disease.”

He praised Sri Lanka’s healthcare system for maintaining an admirable record, despite national hardships.

Dilhan C Fernando

“Whatever anyone may say about systems or governance, the fact is Sri Lanka’s healthcare system has an enviable track record,” he said.

Rotary’s Promise of Early Detection

Representing the Rotary Club of Colombo, former Rotary International President K.R. Ravindran delivered a powerful message on the life-saving power of partnerships.

“This is not a discussion. This is a promise of early detection,” Ravindran said. “Cancer, especially cervical cancer, does not arrive with a bell ringing or a warning. It whispers, and so often by the time it is heard, it is too late.”

He spoke emotionally of the grief caused by delayed diagnosis.

“For millions of women, that whisper is a devastating reality. Families left grieving—that is the reality.”

Ravindran recalled how Rotary had earlier established a stand-alone early detection centre offering free screening for breast, cervical and oral cancers. Through those efforts, more than 120,000 women had access to screening.

“During that journey, we learned something profound,” he said. “Early detection is not just saving lives. It transforms fear into hope, into possibility.”

That experience led Rotary to intensify efforts against cervical cancer, supported by overseas partners who introduced expertise and advanced screening technology.

A Crisis That Nearly Stopped Progress

Ravindran revealed that Sri Lanka’s financial crisis nearly derailed the programme when funds for HPV testing kits became unavailable.

“Without the money, the whole thing would have gone awry,” he said.

It was then, he said, that Dilmah stepped in.

“They did something far greater than simply giving money. They made scale possible. They made continuation possible. They made impact possible.”

He paid tribute to Merrill J. Fernando’s values.

“He believed business was a matter of human service. It was not just about making money. He did not just speak it. He lived it.”

He added that Dilhan Fernando had strengthened that legacy through direct leadership and compassion.

Sri Lanka Can Lead the World

Ravindran said Sri Lanka has every reason to believe it can become one of the first countries in the world to eliminate cervical cancer by 2030.

He cited the country’s literacy, school vaccination programmes, far-reaching public health system and highly respected midwife service.

“One thing we have to be proud of is our public health service,” he said. “And we have an excellent midwife system. If you involve the midwives, you are effectively empowering the community.”

He concluded with a message of hope.

“I think this country can become one of the first countries to be rid of this disease. Perhaps one day no woman in Sri Lanka will ever again hear the whisper of cervical cancer.”

Science, Prevention and Public Health

Consultant Community Physician Dr. Nadija Herath, of the Family Health Bureau, explained that cervical cancer is caused mainly by persistent infection with the Human Papillomavirus (HPV), which can take years to develop into cancer, if left untreated.

She said this makes screening especially important because pre-cancerous changes can be detected and reversed.

“The most important thing about this cancer is that it is preventable,” she said. “If identified early, women can be fully cured and live normal lives.”

Sri Lanka’s Well Woman Clinic programme, introduced in 1996, currently focuses on women aged 35 and 45.

Dr. Herath said the country is now expanding the use of HPV DNA testing, which offers much higher sensitivity than traditional methods.

She added that outreach clinics in factories and underserved communities would be strengthened, ensuring women can access services close to where they live and work.

Cancer Society Calls for Social Change

President of the Sri Lanka Cancer Society, Anoja Karunaratne, said awareness and stigma remain serious barriers.

“We need to take this message beyond hospitals and clinics—into schools, workplaces, religious institutions and community groups,” she said.

She stressed that women should view screening as a normal and responsible part of healthcare.

“Women must not fear screening. They must see it as routine care that can save their lives.”

A Partnership with Purpose

Throughout the event, one theme stood above all others—the power of unity.

Government institutions brought infrastructure and expertise. Rotary brought leadership and international support. The private sector brought resources and purpose. Civil society brought compassion and outreach.

Ravindran summed it up simply:

“This is not just institutions coming together. It is values coming together.”

“When governments, civil society, global networks and responsible businesses all come together, we do more than fight disease—we change destiny.”

Hope for Every Woman

As Sri Lanka moves toward the World Health Organisation goal of eliminating cervical cancer as a public health threat by 2030, the gathering offered more than policy announcements. It offered confidence that progress is possible.

It reminded the nation that some of the greatest victories are won not in boardrooms or conference halls, but in clinics where disease is detected early, in families spared grief, and in women given the chance to live healthy, full lives.

And in that shared effort, Sri Lanka may yet become a global example of what compassion, courage and collaboration can achieve.

By Ifham Nizam

Continue Reading

Life style

Rheumatoid Arthritis doesn’t stop at your joints; And neither should your treatment

Published

on

Dr. Aruna Caldera

By Dr. Aruna Caldera, Consultant Rheumatologist MBBS, MD, MRCP (UK), MRCP (Rheumatology)

The word arthritis comes from ancient Greek. “Arthron” means joints; “itis” means inflammation; so, arthritis means inflammation of joints. Arthritis is one of the commonest disease categories which effect man. Some forms of arthritis may not even require any form of specific treatment, whereas some may even kill you.

Among long-term arthritis conditions, the most serious is rheumatoid arthritis. This disease occurs due to genetic variations that cause the immune system to malfunction and produce antibodies against the joints, leading to joint damage. We call this process, auto immunity; in simple words, your immune system which is supposed to protect you, starts to work against you.

If proper treatment is not started on time, the progression of the disease will be extremely difficult. Without proper treatment, it can make life miserable and may even lead to premature death.

Rheumatoid arthritis is a chronic, systemic inflammatory disease. Joint involvement is only one part of it. In simple terms arthritis is not limited to the joints. This is why relying only on ointments or topical treatments can lead to extra-articular (other organ) damage some of which could be catastrophic and lead to premature death.

If untreated, inflammation damages the joints—causing deformities, cartilage loss, and involvement of more joints over time. Complications usually appear after 10–15 years. Those who don’t understand, or refuse to believe this, often rely on short-term fixes and, unfortunately, will suffer later.

Eventually, joint deformities can become so severe that a person may not be able to walk without aid, button clothes, dress themselves, go to the toilet independently, open a bottle, or even open a door.

There are several types of rheumatoid arthritis:

Classical rheumatoid arthritis:

Affects small joints (fingers, wrists) and large joints (elbows, ankles, knees). Symptoms include morning stiffness, joint pain, swelling, weak grip, and fatigue.

Palindromic rheumatism

: Sudden joint pain (and swelling) that disappears within hours or days. Many of these patients may later develop classical rheumatoid arthritis. However, treatment can reduce this risk of progression to classical type. Medication may be needed even when symptoms are absent.

Monoarticular rheumatoid arthritis:

Affects a single joint. It is often mistaken for other conditions like gouty arthritis or osteoarthritis. Without proper treatment, it can destroy the joint and later progress to classical rheumatoid arthritis. Commonly affects larger joints, like knees, ankles, hips, and shoulders.

Polymyalgic onset (proximal) rheumatoid arthritis:

Seen in older individuals and even could be missed by clinicians. Patients usually complain of stiffness in both shoulders rather than joint pain or swelling.

Most patients experience morning stiffness (difficulty moving joints after waking) and joint “gelling” (stiffness after rest). Stiffness can last from minutes to hours and is caused by inflammatory substances accumulating in joints during sleep and rest.

Other symptoms may include whole-body pain, fatigue, weight loss, mild fever, depression, fibromyalgia (generalised wide spread pains)

Rheumatoid arthritis affects the whole body. The effects on other organ systems are identified as” extraarticular manifestations”. Most organs can get involved in poorly controlled disease. Some of the common manifestations include,

Skin vasculitis rashes and skin nodules

Lung disease (interstitial lung disease)

Heart disease (ischemic heart disease)

Osteoporosis

Eye problems which can even cause blindness (uveitis, scleritis)

Nerve disorders (polyneuropathy, mononeuritis)

Dry mouth (Sjogren’s syndrome)

About 40% of patients may develop such complications. The only way to reduce them is timely treatment.

In addition to joint swelling, the whole hand may swell like wearing a boxing glove. Swelling in the wrist can compress the median nerve, causing carpal tunnel syndrome (numbness in fingers). Surgery should not be rushed—arthritis must be treated first.

The disease can even affect the upper spine (neck joints). Neck pain along with other joint pain should not be ignored. In simple terms, rheumatoid arthritis can affect almost any joint except most parts of the spine.

No blood test is required to suspect or even diagnose rheumatoid arthritis. In some patients the rheumatoid factor antibody test will never be positive (seronegative rheumatoid arthritis). Waiting for lab confirmation before starting treatment is an unwarranted delay.

Some tests may show abnormalities:

Rheumatoid factor antibodies, Anti-CCP antibodies, ANA may be positive

ESR and CRP may be elevated

Haemoglobin may be low (anaemia of chronic disease)

Platelets may be high

Blood tests are more useful for monitoring treatment and medication safety rather than initial diagnosis. One important fact we must realise is the titre of the antibody test positivity has no correlation to disease activity and we cannot use the antibody titres to evaluate the response to treatment.

There are treatments that can even bring the disease into remission in no time at all. However, patients who delay treatment, take insufficient doses of medicines, stop medication early, follow inconsistent treatment, or rely on unscientific treatment methods are unlikely to achieve this.

Proper treatment involves starting with stronger medications and gradually reducing it as the disease improves. Simply controlling symptoms, without addressing the disease progression, is not enough; that is why using pain killers and prednisolone only cannot prevent extraarticular manifestations.

The first goal is on-drug remission. After that, patients should continue medication for more than 12 months without symptoms before gradually tapering. Stopping/tapering medications too early often causes relapse, which is a major reason why many patients fail to recover. Some patients may relapse even after stopping medication, but modern treatments allow long-term control without harm and sustained, drug-free remission in other patients. Most novel therapies are available in Sri Lanka as well.

The medications used are called DMARDs (Disease-Modifying Anti-Rheumatic Drugs). These do not just control symptoms—they change the course of the disease. Most patients respond to conventional DMARDs, but if not, biologic or targeted synthetic DMARDs should be started early—not after joint damage occurs. These treatments are available in Sri Lanka. Without consulting rheumatologist, patients may not receive these advanced forms of novel treatments.

Having rheumatoid arthritis is like being trapped in a room with a venomous snake. As long as you stay alert, you can avoid harm—but if you ignore it, it will strike. The disease must be treated at any cost. The choice is yours. With proper treatment initiated early, you can live a normal life. Ignoring the disease will not make it go away. Misinformation by people who aren’t aware of the severity of the disease and medications used often causes patients to avoid ideal treatment, leading to worse outcomes.

There is no point worrying after diagnosis; see a specialist early and seek treatment. You can live a normal life. Even pregnant or breastfeeding mothers can be treated safely without harming the baby. The precious time you waste starting a DMARD will definitely impact the final outcome.

Continue Reading

Life style

Avurudu spirit comes alive

Published

on

Niroshan, Priyan and host

The Sinhala and Tamil New Year stands as one of Sri Lanka’s most significant cultural observances, marking not only the transition of time but also a collective moment of renewal, reflection and togetherness. The Sinhala and Tamil New Year is deeply rooted in age old customs that continue to shape both domestic life and wider social culture across the island. Priyanthi Fernando brought the spirit of Sinhala and Tamil New Year to life, hosting a thoughtfully curated Avurudu celebrations that brought together elegance, culture and the timeless spirit of togetherness. The Sinhala and Tamil New Year festivities were held at Colombo City Centre, followed by a strong service of cultural authenticity. The event unfolded with traditional observances carried out in glamour and style. The atmosphere was warm, yet distinctly elegant, with carefully curated details. Priyanthi embraced tradition in a striking reddai hatta, even the invited guests embraced the occasion in equally colourful ensembles that added a rich, cultural vibrancy.

The food presentation added to the charm of the evening, with a beautifully arranged spread of Avurudu delicacies.

The gathering blended festive decor with familiar Avurudu touches, games sweet meat spreads. and a musical backdrop inspired by local rhythms. Both men and women opted for the national attire, while traditional sweets, such as kavum, kokis, aluwa and mung kevum, were among the food highlights, alongside other savories and contemporary bites.

Adding to the celebrating tone were the traditional Avurudu games which brought moments of laughter and friendly competition. As the Avudu Kumari was announced, the evening reached its natural clima, filled with smiles photographs and applause. The gathering captured the true essence of Avurudu with warmth and celebrations.

Avurudu vibes with singer Kirthi Pasquel

Predipika, Preethi and Ramani Pelpola

Shereen Kumaratunga

Pix by Thushara Attapathu

Continue Reading

Trending