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Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train journey

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By Zinara Rathnayake

I was woken by the long, forlorn sound of the siren. The brakes hissed and screeched as our train chugged up the hill and pulled into Radella, a station along one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world: the Colombo to Badulla railway.

“The journey is so enthralling that you don’t want to take your head out of the window,” said Dayawathie Ekanayake, who has travelled extensively by train across the island during her career as a finance consultant. “It makes you feel constantly in awe. You wonder about what comes next – is it a waterfall? A stupa-like tea garden? Or is it mist-clouded peaks? You never know. You just have to keep looking.”

Since my first journey along this route seven years ago, I have returned numerous times, eagerly jumping off the train to explore towns and hamlets flanked by tea estates. The 291km track takes in a mix of deep gorges, craggy cliffs, cascading falls, lakes and rivers from Sri Lanka’s west coast into its mountainous interior. It twists and turns through 46 tunnels, snaking past high montane canopy with bright red rhododendrons and wild ferns, a fragment of the native hill country forest cover left untouched by British colonisers. On a bright day, sun-drenched hills stretch down to the glistening southern coastline from the train window as far as the eye can see.

This slow, 10-hour long journey might be inconvenient for the modern-day traveller, but it’s so enchantingly scenic that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

It’s not just the views that has travellers in awe. The train journey itself has become an Instagram sensation in recent years, with travel bloggers risking their lives to take photos of themselves hanging off the door as the train rumbles past rickety bridges (some of them have been criticised for their dramatic poses). Yet, the journey is also tied to Sri Lanka’s colonial history and gives passengers a deeper understanding of the island-nation.

During British colonisation in the 19th Century, Sri Lanka was the third-largest coffee exporter in the world. As demand rose, it became expensive to ferry coffee on bullock carts from the central mountains to Colombo for shipment, especially with road conditions deteriorating during the monsoon months. Estates had to therefore store their coffee for long periods of time, causing the quality and value to deteriorate. So British estate owners pushed for a rail system to transport coffee. In 1867, the British completed a railway from the city of Kandy in central Sri Lanka to the coastal city of Colombo.

“The British didn’t build railways to help locals travel,” explained Sanka Abeysinghe, naturalist at the luxury boutique hotel chain Teardrop Hotels, who also conducts railway hikes for resort guests. “They designed railways to transport estate produce.”

I boarded the train in Colombo, leaving the muggy heat and low country farmlands to slowly ascend towards the rocky mountains surrounding Kandy. Cutting through rugged terrain, the train climbed 426m over a 21km stretch, passing through 12 tunnels, hugging treacherous curves along the mountains and soaring above thick tropical jungle.

After leaving Kandy, we passed fertile riverine valleys, and entered Sri Lanka’s hill country. Tea flourishes in these damp, wet highlands, so, “when tea became prominent, after the coffee rust epidemic – a fungi disease that hindered the coffee trade [in 1869] – the British wanted to extend the railways to transport tea from the mountains to Colombo,” Abeysinghe explained.

In the 1870s, the British began to expand the railway from Peradeniya, a railway junction near Kandy, extending the route to the terminal station Badulla in 1924. This 178km-long stretch involved navigating through rainy, forested mountains, steep ridges and a series of sharp twists and turns by building an impressive mix of bridges, viaducts, tunnels and embankments. It took 52 years to complete.

We pushed out of the mountains, and over the next three hours we passed small and well-kept British-era railway stations like Galboda and Watawala, which were built solely for the purpose of transporting tea from each estate. We sluggishly ascended past Hindu temples tucked in tea gardens, small housing settlements where the tea estate labourers live, and turpentine forests shrouded in swirling mist. Sometime after leaving Hatton – the gateway town to Adam’s Peak, a holy mountain for pilgrims of all faiths – we entered the Poolbank Tunnel, the longest of the 46 tunnels at more than half a kilometre in length.

“You cannot really see the light at the end of the tunnel here,” Abyesinghe said, chuckling.

From here, young passengers eagerly hung from the door to see the gushing cascades of the spectacular St Clair’s Falls through tea bushes. Cold air drifted in from the open windows and rising mist cloaked the towering Great Western mountain range. Many passengers got off the train at Nanu Oya, a tea-country town where visitors can tour the plantations and learn about the history of tea on the island; but I stayed on board, climbing up to Pattipola, the highest broad gauge railway station in the world. From here, we finally left the cold central hills, travelling past dairy farms towards the sun-drenched south-eastern mountains.

After a couple of hours later, we pulled in at Ella. Over the last decade, this once-sleepy village has turned into a lively tourist hub with cafes and bars lining the streets and people posing for photos in front of the picturesque Nine Arch Bridge, a viaduct with nine arches that soars over tropical jungles of plantain trees and areca nut palms and has become one of the most photographed spots on the island.

Flanked by thick jungle and tea plantations, the bridge was designed by British engineer Harold Marwood, but according to folklore, it never would have been built were it not for local knowledge.

It’s said that during World War One, when it was difficult to source steel from Europe, British engineers had to rethink the bridge design. Since colonial rulers had little to no knowledge about local construction materials, a Sri Lankan builder chipped in to help. Locals completed the engineering marvel using only bricks, stone and cement.

Looking out of the train window, I gazed at the 90m-long viaduct rising through the trees, connecting Ella to the highland town of Demodara. The British also needed a way to manage the steep incline of the terrain from here. “The climb was too abrupt to handle for the engines,” Abeysinghe said.

Again, folklore gives credit to locals who found a way to solve the problem by creating a spiralling track. As we reached Demodara Loop, the train halted at Demodara for passengers to deboard, snaked around a hillock and re-appeared from a 134m-long tunnel right beneath the station.

According to legend, local engineer DW Wimalasurendra worked at the site and thought of this spiral design after seeing a kankami (a tea estate worker who manages South Indian labourers) tying and re-tying his turban. The cutting-edge engineering allowed the train to avoid the steep climb.

We were nearing the end of the journey, and the train slowly descended to the sleepy, terracotta-roofed town of Hali Ela to terminate at the city of Badulla in the lower central hills.

As we pulled into the station, I realised that despite having travelled extensively around the world, I’ve often felt happiest during this slow journey through my own country. In many ways, as the train snakes past the century-old tea bushes, British stations and settlements of tea-estate communities, it quietly reveals the story of an island to those willing to put down their phones and look for it.

Rail Journeys is a BBC Travel series that celebrates the world’s most interesting train rides and inspires readers to travel overland.– BBC



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Life style

Enduring charm of June weddings

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In white,every bride becomes a vision of timess elegance

June has long been celebrated as the month of brides, a season synonymous with romance, elegance and new beginnings . In Sri Lanka, where wedding are cherished as family occasions, every bride dreams of looking her absolute best on her special day. Few names in Sri Lanka are so closely associated with bridal beauty as Ramani Fernando, a pionear of Sri Lanka’s hair and beauty industry whose expertise has transferred countless brides over the decades. She has become a trusted authority on bridal styling, beauty trends and the act of creating timeless wedding looks. In this interview, Ramani Fernando shares her insights on the enduring appeal of June weddings, evolving bridal trends, and how today’s bride can achieve confidence and elegance on their big day!

(Q) Why is June traditionally known as the month of brides?

(A) June has long been associated with weddings because, historically, it was considered a month of prosperity, happiness, and new beginnings. In many cultures, it was believed to be an auspicious time to start married life. Over the years, this tradition has continued, making June one of the most popular wedding months around the world.

(Q) What makes June bridal unique in Sri Lanka?

(A) In Sri Lanka, June weddings often combine elegance with the beauty of the season. Brides tend to choose softer, lighter looks that complement the warm weather, while still embracing our rich cultural traditions. It’s a beautiful balance of timeless bridal glamour and modern sophistication.

(Q) What are the biggest beauty trends you are seeing this year in terms of dressing, hair, and makeup?

(A) This year, we are seeing a move towards effortless elegance. Brides are choosing natural, radiant makeup that enhances their features rather than masking them. Hairstyles are softer, with textured buns, romantic waves, and elegant ponytails. In fashion, classic silhouettes with modern details such as delicate embellishments and clean lines are very popular.

Radiating grace, beauty and joy

(Q) How have bridal hairstyles and makeup evolved over the years?

(A) When I first started, bridal looks were much more structured, with heavier makeup and very intricate hairstyles. Today, brides prefer a more natural and personalised approach. The focus is on enhancing individuality while ensuring the bride looks timeless, both in person and in photographs.

(Q) How can brides balance tradition and contemporary beauty trends?

Radiant bride in yellow

Where elegance meets expertise – Ramani’s signature touch for modern brides

(A) The key is to stay true to who you are. I always encourage brides to respect traditions that are meaningful to them while incorporating modern elements that reflect their personality. A bride should feel authentic, comfortable, and confident rather than simply following trends.

(Q) Beyond makeup and hair, what helps a bride feel confident on her wedding day?

(A) Confidence comes from preparation, self-belief, and being surrounded by people who genuinely support you. When a bride feels comfortable in her own skin, is well-rested, and knows she is loved, that confidence shines through far more than any beauty treatment ever could.

(Q) How has the bridal industry changed since you first started your career?

(A) The bridal industry has evolved tremendously. Brides today have access to global inspiration, through social media, and are much more informed about beauty, fashion, and styling. There is also greater emphasis on personalisation, allowing every bride to create a look that reflects their unique story and personality.

(Q) What has been your most memorable bridal transformation?

(A) It is difficult to choose just one because every bride is special. However, the most memorable transformations are often those where a bride sees herself in the mirror and becomes emotional—not because she looks different, but because she feels like the very best version of herself. Those moments stay with me forever.

(Q) What continues to inspire you after decades in the bridal industry?

(A) The joy of being part of one of the most important days in a person’s life continues to inspire me. Every bride brings a new story, a new dream, and a new vision. Seeing the happiness, confidence, and excitement on a bride’s face is what keeps my passion alive even after all these years.

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Silver jubilee of grace and elegance

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From Moscow to Colombo

The Russian Classical Ballet concert “Once upon a silver stage, conducted by the Russian School of Ballet and dancing, will be presented on June 27, 2026,at Sri Lanka’s iconic Nelum Pokuna Mahinda Rajapakse theatre Colombo with grandeur, This significant event will provide students with the opportunity to showcase their talent to thier proud parents. The School, which started with four little girls wanting to be prima ballerinas, celebrates its success and achievements of 25 years in its Silver Jubilee celebrations at this remarkable event.

(Q) What can audiences expect from this year’s ballet concert?

(A)We are expecting Russian Classical Ballet enthusiasts, parents, Diplomats and Ballet critics.

(Q) How does this performances differ from previous productions?

(A) The Russian School is celebrating its 25th anniversary in Sri Lanka, and the teachers have prepared a mesmerizing performance of Russian Classical Ballet to celebrate and to make the occasion memorable

(Q) What are the highlights of the programme?

(A) Over 700 students from age 4 to 45 years will be on one stage showcasing their talents on Russian Classical Ballet who are currently taking lessons at The Russian School of Ballet & Dancing

(Q) What challenges were involved in bringing such a large scale production to the stage?

(A) Training such a large number of students with variation of age is a challenge. We also face a challenge when it comes to accommodate the students in a Theatre in Sri Lanka. We have to perform the same show twice to make amends for that challenge

(Q) The school is celebrating a significant milestones. How has the journey evolved are the past 25 years?

(A) It is a wonderful progress, for a school which initiated with four little girls and standing tall and strong with 700 students maintaining it’s standards by the management, teacher, students and parents support.

(Q) How has interest in ballet grown among Sri Lankan students over the years?

(A) It’s an amazing interest. We are conducting classes from Monday to Saturday, weekdays from 2.00pm to 6.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 6.00pm, with 12 teachers working through the week. We also maintain a waiting list with at least 500 students annually. We have a huge demand for the art of Russian Classical Ballet in Sri Lanka, not only in Colombo, but outstation, too. We can only accommodate the students for Russian Classical Examination annually with the Vaganova syllabus

(Q) What role does Russian ballet training play in shaping young dancers?

(A) The training does not only shape them in dancing and techniques. They also shape the qualities, discipline and talentsof students from their childhood, especially for little girls to become ladies.

(Q) What makes Russian classical ballet unique compared to other dance forms?

(A) Russian Classical Ballet is an old form of dance and which is highly athletic, expressive and strictly disciplined style of Ballet that originated in the 18th century in Russia which is also the most prominent dance form in the world today. We are privileged to be able to learn and share the art form in Sri Lanka through the Cultural Section of The Embassy of Russian Federation in Sri Lanka to the Ballet lovers.

(Q) How does the school contribute to cultural ties between Sri Lanka and Russia?

(A) The school constantly shares it’s knowledge with Sri Lankan ballet lovers and enthusiastic though examinations, concerts, dance recitals, performances and universities. The Russian Cultural Centre in Colombo has brought down Bolshoi Dancers, Russian Classical Ballets. Younust Dancers. Classical Music Performers many times to Sri Lanka since late the1990s.

Over 1500 students annually examined for Russian Classical Ballet graded exams in Sril Lanka under the guidance of Dr Oxana Karnovich.

(Q) How does ballet help bridge cultural boundaries?

(A) Ballet is an universal art which speaks its own language. Ballet connect different cultures, facilitate cross-cultural communication, and foster mutual understanding.

(Q) Are there plans for international collaborations or performances abroad?

(A) Yes. We are already collaborated with the National Ballet Academy in Moscow under the patronage of Dr Oxana Karnovich -Oxana Karnovich of the Moscow State Academy of Choreography. Holding the position of Senior Lecturer at the Department of Choreography and the History of Ballet at the Moscow State Academy of Choreography, Dr Oxana Karnovich chaired the examinations, while imparting invaluable knowledge and expertise to aspiring dancers as well as our brilliant and growing staff of teachers. Oxana is also an Associate Professor at the Department of Vocal Art and Opera in the Moscow State Institute of Music. With a Ph.D. in Art History and Criticism, her extensive academic background enriches the knowledge and expertise of both our students and teachers, highlighting the dedication to preserve the artistic heritage of ballet.

By Zanita Careem

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Sando: The missing warrior tusker of Ruhuna

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In the vast wilderness of southern Sri Lanka, where ancient forests merge with open grasslands and seasonal waterholes sustain an abundance of wildlife, few elephants have captured the imagination of nature lovers quite like Sando (T011).

A giant among giants, Sando is not merely another tusker roaming the forests of Ruhuna. He is a symbol of strength, dominance, resilience and mystery.

For years, his annual movements through the forests, bordering the Yala National Park, were eagerly anticipated by wildlife enthusiasts, safari operators, photographers and conservationists.

His arrival often signalled the beginning of a period of heightened excitement, within the park, where visitors hoped to catch a glimpse of one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic wild elephants.

Today, however, Sando’s whereabouts remain unknown.

His disappearance for nearly three years has sparked concern, speculation and heartbreak among those who have followed his remarkable journey through the wilderness. Yet despite the uncertainty, many refuse to abandon hope that the giant tusker still roams the forests of Ruhuna, hidden deep within landscapes rarely visited by humans.

According to wildlife enthusiast Chamdika Lakmal of Wild Tuskers of Sri Lanka, Sando represents one of the finest examples of Sri Lanka’s remaining wild tuskers.

He told The SundayIsland: “Sando is unlike most elephants we see in the southern region. His physical appearance, stature and confidence make him truly exceptional. Whenever he appeared, people knew they were witnessing a remarkable animal.’’

Sando primarily inhabited Blocks 3 and 4 of the Ruhuna National Park. During his annual musth period, usually between January and March, he undertook a well-documented journey through Buttala, Gonagan Ara and Galge before entering Yala National Park’s Block 1. These movements became familiar to many wildlife observers who followed his seasonal travels, year after year.

The annual migration was more than just a movement from one location to another. It was a dramatic display of nature’s hierarchy. Musth is a period of heightened testosterone levels in bull elephants, making them more aggressive and dominant. During this time, Sando transformed into an even more imposing figure.

Estimated to be between 35 and 45 years old, he was widely regarded as one of the most powerful bulls in the region. His immense size and fearless demeanour ensured that few rivals challenged him directly.

One of the most famous episodes, associated with Sando, involved a confrontation with Gamunu, another legendary tusker of Yala. The encounter reportedly resulted in Gamunu losing one of his tusks, further cementing Sando’s reputation as a dominant force among Sri Lanka’s wild elephants.

For many observers, however, Sando’s appeal extended beyond his strength.

Unlike the typical “Ruhunu Getaw” elephants commonly seen in the southern dry zone, Sando possessed a distinctive physique. His body proportions and overall appearance gave him the look of an ancient war elephant, the kind depicted in historical chronicles carrying kings and warriors into battle.

“Whenever you looked at him, you felt as if you were seeing a living relic from Sri Lanka’s ancient past,” Chamidika said. “He had an extraordinary presence that photographs could never fully capture.”

Sri Lanka’s tuskers are themselves a rarity. Wildlife experts estimate that only a small percentage of the country’s male elephants possess tusks. This makes animals such as Sando particularly valuable from both ecological and cultural perspectives.

Historically, tuskers occupied a special place in Sri Lankan society. They featured prominently in religious ceremonies, royal processions and folklore. Even today, they remain powerful symbols of national heritage.

Their rarity, however, also makes them vulnerable.

Throughout Sri Lanka, wild elephants continue to face numerous threats, including habitat fragmentation, human-elephant conflict, poaching and accidental deaths. Expanding agricultural activities, infrastructure development and increasing human settlements have placed growing pressure on elephant habitats.

For tuskers, the risks can be even greater.

Their ivory makes them attractive targets for poachers, despite strict wildlife protection laws. Across Asia and Africa, ivory poaching has devastated elephant populations, and conservationists remain vigilant against similar threats in Sri Lanka.

These concerns intensified earlier this year when wildlife officials discovered the carcass of a tusker in the Kotiyagala area. The animal’s tusks had reportedly been removed by poachers. News of the discovery spread rapidly among wildlife enthusiasts.

Because Sando had not been seen for such a long period, many feared the worst. Could the carcass belong to the missing giant?

The possibility sent shockwaves through Sri Lanka’s wildlife community.

For many photographers and safari operators who had spent years documenting Sando, the prospect was devastating. Social media platforms were flooded with expressions of concern and calls for further investigations.

Yet the mystery deepened.

A year earlier, skeletal remains, believed to belong to a tusker, had also been discovered near Buttala. Once again, fears emerged that Sando’s fate had finally been uncovered.

However, officials from the Department of Wildlife Conservation later determined that the skull was significantly smaller than what would be expected from an elephant of Sando’s size. The remains, therefore, could not be conclusively linked to the missing tusker.

For conservationists, this finding offered a glimmer of hope.

Despite the absence of confirmed sightings, there have been occasional reports from remote sections of Yala and surrounding forests describing a large tusker bearing a striking resemblance to Sando. None of these observations have been verified, but they continue to fuel optimism among wildlife enthusiasts.

According to Chamidika, history provides reasons to remain hopeful.

“There have been several instances where dominant bulls disappeared from their known ranges for many years before returning unexpectedly. Until there is definitive evidence, we should not assume the worst.”

Indeed, wildlife records contain numerous examples of mature bulls vanishing from familiar territories only to reappear years later.

Such behaviour may be linked to changes in habitat use, competition, food availability or breeding opportunities. Elephants are highly intelligent and adaptable animals capable of travelling vast distances through landscapes that remain inaccessible to people.

As August approaches, anticipation once again builds among those who know Sando’s traditional routes. Reports from Athiliwewa, Pelwatta, Gonagan Ara and Buttala will be monitored closely for any sign of the missing giant.

For now, Sando’s story remains one of Sri Lanka’s most compelling wildlife mysteries.

His disappearance has highlighted not only the challenges facing elephant conservation but also the deep emotional connection many Sri Lankans share with their wildlife.

In an era when biodiversity is under increasing pressure, the fate of a single tusker has become symbolic of a much larger struggle to protect the nation’s natural heritage.

Whether Sando eventually emerges from the forests of Ruhuna or remains forever a mystery, his legacy is already secure. He represents the wild spirit of Sri Lanka’s elephants—powerful, resilient and endlessly captivating.

Until definitive evidence proves otherwise, conservationists, safari guides, photographers and elephant lovers across the country will continue to hope that somewhere in the vast wilderness of the south, the warrior tusker of Ruhuna still walks unseen, carrying with him one of the greatest untold stories of Sri Lanka’s wild places.

By Ifham Nizam

 

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