Features
Traveling in Russia for UNESCO and more of life in Paris
(Excerpted from volume ii of the Sarath Amunugama autobiography)
In the final years of the gerontocracy that ruled the Communist Party and the USSR we received the green light to have the annual general meeting of the Internatioal Programme for the Development of Communications (IPDC) in the Soviet Union. This was a special plus for the IPDC because till now its main backers were the Third World countries and the Nordic group. The Soviet delegation which included the general manager of Tass News Agency as well as Zassousky of Moscow University and several top brass from the Foreign Ministry managed to convince the old men in the Kremlin that it was in their interest to ally with the many Third World countries associated with UNESCO and IPDC.
As if to reinforce their Third world connections it was suggested that the meeting be held in Tashkent – the capital of Socialist Uzbekistan. The USSR had already built up Tashkent as their window to Asia. For instance, the Tashkent Film Festival was well known in Asia and Africa. The city had the infrastructure to mount a global conference. Preparatory work for the meeting was assigned to me and my office. My counterpart was Sasha, an official in the USSR Embassy in Paris, who was charged with UNESCO relations.
We struck up an instant friendship as we had to travel many times to Moscow together to finalize arrangements for the meeting. Since it was a high level UN conference M’Bow himself would attend it. Having received a battering from the western press the DG looked forward to the choreographed welcome he was bound to receive in the USSR. This was a difficult time for him since the spat with the USA had led to him being demonized in the Western media.
He discovered too late that it was not possible to win over the western media if you take on the Jewish lobby. Once the press begins to demonize you, it becomes difficult even for political leaders to help you. M’Bow was beginning to go down the slippery slope and he found that the popularity of the IPDC among all political camps gave him a chance to mend fences. But the Reagan administration did not approve of him on the Israeli issue.
The US left UNESCO, which created a gaping hole in our budget. Japan came to the rescue by increasing its contribution. But there was a price tag to the rescue act. It began to suggest changes at the top and very soon M’Bow was replaced by a Japanese Secretary General.
While preparations for the Tashkent meeting brought me to Moscow many times, I also had to negotiate some tricky points with the Communist Party bureaucrats. One such issue was regarding visas. Any UN meeting presupposes the issuing of visas to all participants recommended by it. The host country cannot impose any conditions regarding the travel and security of the participants once they are within its borders.
All arrangements for board and lodging of participants must be approved by us. All this had to be handled sensitively as the US had added several anti-Communist hardliners to their observer delegation perhaps hoping to sow confusion. In all probability these delegates would not have been issued visas if they had applied directly to Moscow. Among these hardliners or ‘cold war warriors’ was Alan Weinstein, a University Professor who had published a lengthy volume presenting evidence to prove his thesis that the killing of John F Kennedy was the act of a ‘lone assassin’ and was not a conspiracy.
Weinstein was considered to be a USSR watcher for Reagan. He was joined in the journey to Tashkent by an alcoholic Californian journalist Nossiter who was a favourite of the US President. It looked very much as though the US delegation was expecting some mishap which could be highlighted at home in their ongoing effort to vilify the United Nations. So we had to be extra careful in our preliminary arrangements.
While in Moscow I took time off for sightseeing. The city was full of old dynastic buildings. The multi-coloured churches with their onion like domes were an architectural wonder. The massive Red Square in the Kremlin with a lit up lone red star looking down from the highest building was an inspiring sight to me, who as an undergraduate at Peradeniya, had pored over books written about the historic Red revolution of the Bolsheviks led by Lenin.
To my pleasant surprise my guide to the historic sites of the city was Ordzhonikidze – the great grandson of a fellow Georgian revolutionary and comrade of Stalin. The original Sergo Ordzhonikidze was one of the heroes of the revolution. He was rare among the early leaders to die unscathed by the terror launched by Stalin. Stalin named one of his battle ships after him. However the latest research has thrown doubt about the manner of his death.
My guide was a young man well versed in the history of the revolution. He took me to the Museum of the Revolution which narrates the history of that epochal event. Communists have no hesitation in rewriting history to fit their current preoccupations. For example in all the old photos of revolutionary leaders, Trotsky had been air brushed out. Since I was familiar with the original photos from Isaac Deutscher’s books I asked my guide about it.
His answer shocked me. He told me that he had not even heard of such a name. He added that none in his generation knew of Trotsky. We then visited the Lenin Mausoleum to view Lenin’s embalmed body which a writer has described as a ‘communist relic’. By this time Khrushchev had ensured that Stalin’s sarcophagus which had lain side by side with Lenin’s was removed from the viewing hall. The Russians are obsessed with sarcophagi.
In the basements of the old churches with onion domes – of the Russian Orthodox Church – in ancient boxes lie the remains of church leaders of the past years. The communists have buried the remains of ancient kings but have left the churchmen alone in the crypts. I remembered that Moscow is only a part of the story. The revolution took place in St Petersburg with its Winter Palace.
Much later, on an official visit there with President Mahinda Rajapaksa I was able to imagine the drama at the beginning of the Russian Revolution. The ship ‘Aurora’ which figures largely in history because the sailors mutinied and threatened to bombard Petersburg in support of the revolutionaries was, we saw, moored in Petersburg harbour. But Moscow became the new capital. Ordinokidze and I motored to the outskirts of Moscow to see last ditch defences Stalin had set up to prevent Hitler’s tanks rolling down to take the beleaguered capital which housed Stalin and the Central Committees.
Soviet Tanks and soldiers had made a heroic stand there and driven back the Nazis. After the guided tour we lunched at Moscow’s famous five star restaurant `Matryoshka’ on Katuzovsky Avenue, which was a popular meeting place of the Moscow elite. I went back to my Hotel Moskva and got ready for the highlight of my tour, the visit to the Bolshoi Theatre to see ‘Swan Lake’ danced by the world famous Bolshoi Ballet. I had seen ‘Swan Lake’ in Paris, Berlin [called ‘Schwansee’ in German] and London but the Bolshoi version was the most breathtaking, both for the dancing and Tchaikovsky’s music.
After this encounter I was ready to fly back to Paris. My friend Sasha of the Paris embassy then introduced me to a touching traditional Russian gesture. He brought a home cooked loaf of bread wrapped in a bandana. His wife, who was a teacher of English in a University, had baked the bread. In the past in Russia when a family member or friend undertook a long journey his loved ones would cook him a loaf of bread, wrap it and hand it over so that he would not go hungry. I too was given that touching honour and was greatly moved.
Promising to come back, I took the Air France flight back to Paris and home after a wonderful experience in Soviet Russia. By a coincidence seated next to me on the flight was Bala Tampoe who was one of my heroes from University days. We talked and on the following day I took him out to lunch in a posh hotel close to the ‘Le Monde’ office where Bala had an interview with a French journalist.
Tashkent
The Tashkent meeting was quite a victory for the newly formed IPDC. The international situation was moving towards dialogue and nations were looking for signals, however small they may appear at first, of a thaw in the Cold War. The USSR was in a state of paralysis after a period of rule by geriatric leaders. Gorbachev was in the wings and soon ‘Perestroika’ and ‘Glasnost’ was to emerge to shake up the Communist world.
As mentioned earlier Ronald Reagan sent a delegation of right wing hardliners to Tashkent. They were carefully handled by the State Department officials who came along with them from Washington. They came expecting a frosty reception but the USSR and our staff made sure that they felt comfortable as they were invited to many meals, and especially drinking sessions, in the best Tashkent restaurants. According to American Foreign service officers, their report to Reagan was conciliatory.
Sensing the value of this meeting M’Bow himself attended the conference. He was treated with great respect by the USSR authorities, which was a contrast to the way in which he had been treated by a visiting US under-secretary. At the meeting, defying expectations of a boycott, western delegates who provided most of the funds, were happy that IPDC was short on rhetoric but had successfully collected funds and launched many projects to improve communications facilities in the poorer nations.
The USSR also by selecting Tashkent had signaled that they were on the side of the developing nations. Tashkent was their gateway to Asia and the “third world” countries. They had invested heavily in providing hotels and conference centres in the city. Though we were put up in the best hotel we got a shock when an earthquake hit Tashkent and we had to run out to the open in the night till the tremors subsided. It was a comic sight to see the distinguished delegates congregating on the lawn in their night clothes. Later we were assured that such tremors were not exceptional and the hotel was built to be earthquake proof I doubt whether our seasoned diplomats bought that story in its entirety.
Samarkand
After the grand finale of the meeting USSR authorities had arranged an excursion to Samarkand for the participants. Samarkand has been described by a poet as “a rose red city half as old as time”. It had been the cradle of the Mughal, which later became a famous centre of Islamic learning. We saw one of the oldest Universities of the world with its warren like rooms for the young scholars who then traversed Asia and the Middle East propagating the Islamic faith.
They were also the early scientists and astronomers who advanced learning in mathematics and tracking of changes in the sky and stars. The world’s oldest telescope to observe the skies was located in Samarkand. The Tashkent meeting brought me even closer to the Asian delegates to UNESCO and IPDC. Among them was G. Parthasarathy, the head of the Indian delegation. GP was close to the Nehru family having been the PMs roving ambassador. He was India’s Ambassador to Vietnam at a crucial time when Nehru was called upon to be a mediator in the growing political crisis in that country. We became close friends with consequences that I will describe later in this chapter.
The UNESCO top brass was pleased with our management of the conference. M’Bow held a reception for the staff and thanked them. When the inevitable cuts foIlowing the US withdrawal came, IPDC was not touched. We were encouraged to keep up our ties with the State Department Officials in Paris who were themselves unhappy about the withdrawal but could do nothing about it. They assured us that eventually the US will return and that is what really happened later. In the meanwhile, USAID with whom we had excellent relations continued several of our projects bilaterally with those countries concerned.
Rue Jean Daudin
As stated earlier with the arrival of my family in Paris I moved to a spacious flat in Rue Jean Daudin which was close to UNESCO headquarters and my office in Rue Miollis. This was a posh quartier in Paris being close to the Eiffel Tower, Trocadero, the Ecole Militaire and Champ de Mars – the most famous park in Paris. The shift of residence from a ‘Red’ working class district to the heart of upper class Paris gave me an opportunity of experiencing different historical cultures of that ancient city.
The topography of Paris is highly segmented on the basis of social class. As a jogger in my new locality I could run past the military school which had produced a Napoleon as well as all the military leaders of World wars including De Gaulle. In fact paratroop commanders led by Generals Salan and Massu, who opposed De Gaulle’s change of policy on Algeria, attempted to assassinate him in front of the Ecole Militaire. This real event forms the backdrop of the famous thriller ‘Day of the Jackal’ which became a bestseller.
I ran past the Invalides – a hospital for war veterans established by Napoleon, which is now a war museum. From there I would reach the Champs de Mars and the Tour Eiffel. Then I would go past the Trocadero, down the steps near the Musee de Homme and back to my home in Rue Jean Daudin. It was a daily chore which not many people would have had the privilege of enjoying. But it was also saddening because my route was dotted with plaques commemorating the resistance fighters who had been put against the wall in those locations and summarily executed by the Gestapo during the Nazi occupation. From time to time old ladies – relatives, girlfriends and surviving comrades-would hobble up to those monuments to lay a bunch of flowers as remembrance of those sad times past.
I then got down to the task of finding schools for my two daughters who were delighted to be in Paris at the best time of their young lives. Ramanika who was 18 enrolled in the American University of Paris while Varuni who was 15 joined the British school of Paris which was located out of the city in idyllic surroundings. The British school bus was parked at the Trocadero and the students, who were mostly from the posh quartiers, had to come there by car or metro.
Varuni would take the Segur Metro to Trocadero first with her mother but soon on her own, and catch the school bus to the suburbs with her mischievous schoolmates who were mostly drawn from UNESCO and embassy families. Occasionally my wife and I visited the school to inquire about Varuni’s progress. We were accompanied by Navaz as an interpreter and two other Sri Lankans. The school management would have been horrified to see a delegation of Asians descending on their school, all intent on following the early baby steps in education of their new entrant Varuni Amunugama.
But both children adapted themselves well and would merge easily with their new friends who were up to their usual pranks in class and on school tours to England, Ireland and parts of Europe. They were both on great demand as ‘baby sitters’ to small children of the super-rich like Bank Directors, Ambassadors and Supermodels who paid them handsomely. With the money so collected the two girls traveled through Europe by train on their own.
In Geneva they were looked after by Jayantha and Maureen Dhanapala. In Rome they stayed with Mahinda Ranaweera and his wife who were UNESCO functionaries there. In Germany they were guests of my wife’s cousin who was married to an embassy official in Bad Godesberg. They were popular ‘baby sitters’ because they spent part of their allowance buying chocolates for their wards.
We also had many Sri Lankan friends staying with us. Namel and Malini Weeramuni, our friends from way back, toured France with some companions in a caravan and I arranged a flat nearby for them to stay while visiting Paris. Lester and Sumitra Peries were regular visitors to Paris. Earlier their good friend Vernon Mendis, who was our Ambassador, had entertained them. They also had friends in the French film industry, some of whom were associated with the Cannes Film Festival.
Sumitra’s film `Loku Duwa’ produced and acted by Geetha Kumarasinghe was selected under a special section in Cannes called ‘Un Certain Regard’ which was a considerable achievement for both Sumitra and Geetha. A lot of work went into making a shorter version of the Sinhala film, subtitling, striking extra prints and launching of a publicity drive in the French media. All this was done and `Loku Duwa’ was screened to an enthusiastic audience.
On another occasion Sumitra visited Paris and stayed with us when one of her films was presented at the Nantes Film Festival. Richard Ross and his wife Jane who were our close friends when they were in Colombo as attaches to the US Embassy, were in Paris serving in the US embassy. They were living on a houseboat moored on the river Seine. Dick and Jane invited us for dinner on their boat. It was a fun party with plenty of drinks and as the music increased in tempo, we were scared that an inebriated guest would jump into the river.
Features
Quandary of Dengue: Some roving perspectives
Sri Lanka is currently well and truly trapped in the strangling grip of a devastating and severely enhanced dengue outbreak. The numbers alone are staggering; over 44,000 cases have been recorded across the island so far this year, with the highest concentration systematically suffocating the Western, Southern, and Central provinces. Hospitals and healthcare providers are under extreme pressure, but the cold metrics of morbidity do not capture the true implications and dismay of this current wave. What has profoundly shaken the public consciousness and even sent a shudder through the medical community is a grim shift in the implications for the populace.
Dengue has always been quite a threat, looming over our Motherland from time to time. Yet for all that, historically, child deaths due to the virus were relatively rare in Sri Lanka, thanks to scrupulously adhering to robust clinical guidelines, as well as exceptional paediatric monitoring and management. This year, that safety net seems to be straining quite a bit at the edges and among the reported fatalities are a tragic number of children. The virus is moving faster, hitting harder, and exposing a terrifying reality, even stressing that our existing defence mechanisms are perhaps no longer totally sufficient to deal with the problem.
In response, public health authorities have deployed their traditional arsenal. Teams are busy with intensive surveillance, conducting house-to-house inspections, enforcing strict penalties for standing and stagnant water, and sending fogging machinery through the streets to blanket neighbourhoods in chemical mists. Yet, as case counts climb by nearly 50% week over week, an uncomfortable question must be asked: Are these traditional measures sufficient, or are they bordering on an exercise in futility?
The Illusion of the Fog: Why Our Current Strategy May Be Failing?
To understand why Sri Lanka might be in a tight corner, one must look closely at the enemy. Dengue is transmitted primarily by the Aedes aegypti mosquito, a highly adapted, urbanised insect. While Aedes aegypti is widely considered the primary culprit, Aedes albopictus (commonly known as the Asian tiger mosquito) plays a massive, highly dangerous role in Sri Lanka’s dengue transmission as well. In fact, the interplay between these two species is one of the biggest reasons why controlling dengue on the island is so incredibly difficult. These two vectors behave differently, breed in different places, and require distinct strategies to combat their well-recognised roles in the propagation of the disease that is dengue. Understanding how these two mosquito species split the territory could explain why a single controlling method might not always work across the board.
Aedes aegypti mosquitoes are strictly urban and indoor creatures. They live alongside humans inside houses, apartments, and in heavily built-up commercial areas. They rest on dark clothes in closets, under furniture, and behind curtains. They breed in artificial containers, clear, stagnant water in flower vases, plastic cups, concrete sumps, and overhead tanks. They prefer human blood almost exclusively and bite multiple people to get one full meal, thereby spreading the dengue virus rapidly within even a single household.
In contrast, Aedes albopictus is semi-urban and rural, thrives in vegetations, gardens, rubber plantations, and peri-urban areas where green spaces meet houses. The creature rests in shaded bushes, high grass, and low canopy foliage, as well as holes in trees, leaf axils, coconut shells, discarded tyres and trash. The biting behaviour of these mosquitoes is opportunistic. They bite humans but also feed on birds and domestic mammals, indicating that they can survive easily even when human density is low.
The traditional responses we rely on, most notably thermal fogging, are largely cosmetic public relations exercises rather than a totally effective vector control mechanism. Such fogging misses indoor resting sites, drives resistance, and stagnant water elimination fails against cryptic, microscopic breeding sites.
Fogging utilises “adulticides“, chemical sprays meant to kill flying mosquitoes. However, Aedes aegypti is a domestic creature; it rests indoors, hidden in the dark recesses of closets, under beds, and behind curtains. A fogging process achieves very little penetration into these indoor sanctuaries. Furthermore, over-reliance on these pyrethroid-based chemical sprays has accelerated insecticide resistance, effectively rendering the chemicals useless over time.
Similarly, while the National Dengue Control Unit (NDCU), to their eternal credit, aggressively pursues the elimination of visible standing water, the sheer adaptability of the mosquito outpaces manual human labour in trying to eliminate the breeding places of the vectors. Aedes eggs can remain dormant in dry containers for months, hatching the moment a drop of water touches them. In dense, urbanised areas like Colombo and Gampaha, microscopic breeding sites, from the rim of a discarded plastic bottle cap to the base of an indoor potted plant, are impossible to completely police.
If we continue to rely solely on manual cleaning and chemical fogging, we are fighting a twenty-first-century climate-driven crisis with mid-twentieth-century tools. We must look beyond our borders to see how global science is shifting the paradigm of mosquito control.
The Biological Frontier: Insects fighting Mosquitoes
When searching for international alternatives, many look towards the United States, where vector control districts manage complex mosquito populations across diverse ecosystems. A common point of curiosity is the historical use of “mosquito-eating insects.”
In the US, biological control has long featured predatory species. While some point to insects like dragonfly nymphs or giant non-biting mosquito larvae (Toxorhynchites, which actively prey on other mosquito larvae), the most widely used traditional biological agent in American municipal water systems is actually the Gambusia affinis, commonly known as the “mosquitofish.” A single one of these surface-feeding fish can devour hundreds of mosquito larvae a day.
However, American vector management has largely evolved past simply dumping predatory fish into ponds. The true modern frontier in global mosquito control relies on advanced biological and genetic interventions that turn the mosquitoes against themselves.
1. The Wolbachia Revolution
Perhaps the most successful international intervention against dengue is the introduction of Wolbachia-infected mosquitoes. Wolbachia is a naturally occurring bacterium found in up to sixty per cent of all insect species, but crucially, not naturally present in Aedes aegypti.
When scientists introduce Wolbachia into Aedes mosquitoes in a laboratory and release them into the wild, two extraordinary things happen: –
· Viral Suppression: The bacterium competes with viruses like dengue, Zika, and chikungunya inside the mosquito’s body, making it incredibly difficult for the virus to replicate. If the virus cannot replicate, the mosquito cannot transmit it to a human.
· Population Replacement:
Through a mechanism called cytoplasmic incompatibility, when a Wolbachia-carrying male mates with a wild female that does not carry the bacteria, her eggs do not hatch. If a Wolbachia female mates with a wild male, her offspring will carry the bacteria. Over time, the local mosquito population is entirely replaced by harmless, non-transmission-capable mosquitoes.
In comprehensive global trials, such as those conducted by the World Mosquito Programme in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, the introduction of Wolbachia mosquitoes led to a staggering 77% reduction in dengue incidence and an 86% reduction in dengue-related hospitalisations.
2. Sterile Insect Technique (SIT) and Genetic Modifications
Other countries, including parts of the US (such as the Florida Keys) and Brazil, have turned to genetic engineering. Using the Sterile Insect Technique (SIT) or advanced genetic variants (like those developed by Oxitec), millions of bio-engineered male mosquitoes are released into the wild. Because male mosquitoes do not bite humans, and they feed exclusively on nectar, thereby posing zero risk to the public. These males mate with wild females, but pass on a self-limiting gene that causes the female offspring to die in the larval stage before they can ever mature, bite, or transmit disease. This results in a drastic collapse of the localised vector population without the use of even a single drop of toxic chemical pesticide.
Moving beyond the Status Quo: A Blueprint for Sri Lanka
The current dilemma in Sri Lanka is a classical gridlock: we are deploying immense physical effort and economic capital into vector control measures that yield diminishing returns, while our clinical wards fill with critically ill patients. If we are to break this cycle, our public health policy must undergo a rapid structural evolution
We cannot instantly replicate the multimillion-dollar genetic laboratories of the West, but we can modernise our strategy immediately by adopting a highly targeted, multi-tiered approach.
Comprehensive Vector Management Strategy
The following are some thoughts that need to be carefully evaluated in a venture towards getting things under control.
· Shift from Adulticides to Target Microbial Larvicides Immediate Phase
Cease the reliance on sweeping chemical thermal fogging. Instead, deploy specialised microbial larvicides such as Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti). Bti is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that, when ingested by mosquito larvae, destroys their digestive tracts. It is completely non-toxic to humans, pets, and other aquatic life, and can be distributed via localised backpack sprayers or drones into inaccessible urban sumps.
· Scale Up Localised Wolbachia Trials Intermediate Phase
Sri Lanka has previously initiated small-scale, localised pilot releases of Wolbachia mosquitoes in select urban pockets. Given the severity of the 2026 outbreak, these programmes must be aggressively scaled up into an industrial-level national initiative. Public-private partnerships must be leveraged to establish sustainable, high-capacity mosquito-rearing facilities locally.
· Implement Digital Ovitrap Surveillance Continuous Integration
Replace manual, retroactive searching with predictive digital mapping. Deploy networks of smart “ovitraps” (oviposition traps) across high-burden provinces. These traps monitor egg-laying rates in real-time, allowing automated data systems to predict a spike in the adult mosquito population weeks before an actual clinical outbreak occurs, enabling preventative targeting.
The Cost of Inaction
Maintaining our current trajectory is not a neutral choice; it is an endorsement of escalating mortality. The 2026 outbreak has proven that the ecological dynamics of dengue have changed, fuelled by changing weather patterns and urban density. Our public health response must change with it.
The heart-breaking loss of young lives in this current surge must serve as a stark wake-up call. We must look at the international landscape, embrace the biological innovations that have saved lives across the globe, and transition from a policy of panic-driven reaction to one of scientific eradication. It is no longer just a matter of cleaning our drains; it is a matter of upgrading our science.
Why Aedes albopictus Makes the Sri Lankan Crisis Harder
In Sri Lanka, the geographic landscape transitions quickly from dense concrete cities to lush, tropical vegetation. This creates the perfect environment for both species to thrive simultaneously.
· The Surveillance Blindspot: When health authorities focus heavily on checking indoor water storage and concrete drains in cities, they can completely miss the massive Aedes albopictus populations breeding in the surrounding vegetation, suburban gardens, and rural homesteads of the Southern and Central provinces.
· The Failure of Indoor Fogging:
While indoor residual spraying or targeted indoor fogging might hit Aedes aegypti, it has virtually no effect on Aedes albopictus, which spends its life cycle outdoors in the bushes.
· Climate Resilience:
Aedes albopictus eggs are remarkably tolerant of colder temperatures and varied environments. This allows the vector to push higher into the mountainous terrains of the Central Province, bringing dengue to areas that historically saw very few cases.
To truly bring down the case numbers in a severely enhanced outbreak, public health interventions must be dual-targeted: addressing the indoor, urban threat of Aedes aegypti while simultaneously tackling the outdoor, ecological stronghold of Aedes albopictus. We cannot sit back on our laurels of the past. We need to move forward resolutely.
Features
ANURADHAPURA ANTHEM c.1893
R. W. Ievers, who wrote this poem, was the Government Agent of the North Central Province during 1884, 1886, and 1890. He is the author of the Manual of the North Central Province (1899) and a half dozen published reports on the life and practices in the Province. Before his death, he shared it with his good friend H.C.P. Bell, the Archaeological Commissioner of Ceylon at the time. In 1917, Bell had it published in the Times of Ceylon – Christmas Number. Since then, it remained unknown for 109 years, until Ievers’s great-grandson, Turtle Bunbury, historian and author of Living in Sri Lanka (2006) with James Fennell, tipped me off about its source – H.C.P. Bell: Archaeologist of Ceylon and the Maldives (1993), written by Bell’s granddaughters Bethia N. Bell and Heather M. Bell.
THE ANTHEM
Anuradhapura! City grand and vast,
Lanka’s famous Capital, in ages of the past:
In the Mahawansa the story has been told
Of thy palaces, and temples, and pinnacles of gold.
Hail! then hail! to the worth of a bygone day,
Hail! all hail! to the relics of kingly sway
Hail to thee, Fair City, glorious in decay,
Hail! thrice hail! Forever and for aye!
Si monumentum quaeris
– cast your gaze around
Ruined fanes and dagobas everywhere abound
Alas! for glory faded, for erstwhile beauty sped
For hierarchs and heroes, long numbered with the dead
Hail! then hail!…
Great Ruwanaveli Seya, once fairest of the fair,
The splendour of thy palmy days has melted into air;
And like Imperial Caesar now ‘dead and turned into clay’,
Thy sacred bricks ‘may stop a hole to keep the wind away.’
Note by Tillakaratne:
Since 1873, Bhikku Naranvita Sumanasara has been doing conservation work on this stupa. In 1876, Governor William Gregory, after visiting the work site, wrote that its conservation was not just a religious work but a great National Monument.
See ‘Bayagiri’ massive – ‘Fearless Mount’ forsooth – Centre once of schism rank, from ‘Great Vihara’ truth.
Patched up by prison labour, anew it flaunts on high
A ‘hideous excrescence’ athwart a tranquil sky.
Note by H. C. P. Bell
: T. N. Christie, Planting Member at the time protested in the Legislative Council against the abortive “restoration” by prison labour of the Abhayagiri Dagaba, dubbing its truncated pinnacle, half restored, a “hideous excrescence”.
Jetawanarama, Great Sena’s priestly boon
Comely shape and giddy height will crumble all too soon;
Where forest trees and chequered shade a peaceful picture lend,
From cruel axe and ruthless spade, may gracious Heaven defend.
Note by H. C. P. Bell:
Two decades after these poems were written, the surrounding area of the Jetawanarama was still covered in forest, and the Atamasthana Committee conditionally allowed a monk to clear a limited number of trees. But not a tree remained unfelled, contrary to what the monk was authorized to do.
Thuparama graceful, in outline clear and bold,
Begirt with column chaste and slim, a gem in the ring of gold
To thee pertains high honour a pious people gave – The tomb of Sanghamitta, and Prince Mahinda’s grave.
Note by
H. C. P. Bell: The ruins are pointed out, wrongly, as the tradional tombs of Arahat Mahinda and Sanghamitta Theranee.
With bricks and mortar bolstered up, behold the Sacred Bo;
To some – misguided mortals – ‘tis but a ‘bo-gas’ show.
Where humble Mirisveti a monarch’s fad recalls,
Lo! Royal Siam’s silver now builds its futile walls.
Note by H. C. P. Bell:
According to Mahawansa, Mirisavetiya was so named after King Dutugemunu’s compunction at forgetting chillies (miris) in his alms giving to monks on one occasion. The restoration work on the Mirisavetiya began under the Ceylon Government, with funds provided by the King of Siam. When the money flow began to cease, work also ceased, and bats began to frequent the holed structure.
- Ruwanveli Seya in the background. Murage in the front c. 1900 From Sacred City of Anuradhapura (1908)
- Bhayagriya (Abhayagiriya) c. 1900 From: Sacred City of Anuradhapura (1908)
- Jetawanaramaya c. 1900. From Sacred City of Anuradhapura (1908)
What need to tell of sculptures, of ‘pokunas’ galore,
Of balustrades and Yogi stones and half a hundred more,
Of Brazen Palace spacious, with gilt-roofed storeys dight –
A modern race more ‘brazen’ would desecrate each site.
For midst these sacred ruins of shrines and cloistered hall,
A reckless generation disports with little balls,
Whilst ‘Parliamentary language’ and imprecations deep
Disturb the peaceful solitude where saintly Rahats sleep.
Note by H. C. P. Bell:
After European residents, old city Anuradhapura in the late 19th century, the area still being cleared between Ruwanveli Seya and Thuparama, was used a ‘golf links’. Ievers did not like the area used as a playground:
Iconoclasts and vandals have had their little day;
No more shall ancient pillars to culverts find their way.
No more a watchful Government such sacrilege condones –
One may not meddle with the gods, nor tamper with the stones.
Anuradhapura! Thy glory shall revive;
Yhu [sic] sons shall swarm within thee like bees about a hive.
The effort of the present for past neglect atones;
New breath of life resuscitates this vale of driest bones.
Composed by R. W. Ievers
(1850-1905)
Introduced by Lokubanda Tillakaratne
Features
Meththa Rehabilitation Foundation: Restoring Mobility, Dignity and Hope Across Sri Lanka
For thousands of Sri Lankans living with limb loss and physical disabilities, access to quality rehabilitation services remains a significant challenge. Yet, for more than three decades, our organisation has quietly transformed lives through innovation, compassion and community-based care. The Meththa Rehabilitation Foundation Guarantee Limited (MRFGL), supported by the Meththa Foundation-UK and in partnership with the Manitha Neyam Trust, the LEBARA Foundation and the Oblates of Mary Immaculate in Jaffna, emerged as one of Sri Lanka’s most effective voluntary rehabilitation service providers, restoring mobility, independence and dignity to some of the country’s most vulnerable citizens.
The Foundation’s roots stretch back to 1994, when a group of expatriate Sri Lankan professionals in the United Kingdom recognised the severe shortage of rehabilitation services available to disabled persons in Sri Lanka. Drawing upon their expertise in rehabilitation medicine and allied healthcare professions, they established the Meththa Foundation-UK with a simple but powerful vision: to provide affordable, high-quality prosthetic and rehabilitation services to those who needed them most.
What began as an effort to recycle and repurpose high-quality prosthetic components donated by the UK’s National Health Service has evolved into a comprehensive rehabilitation network serving communities across the island.
Clinical services commenced in Sri Lanka in 1995 through a mobile outreach programme that initially supported injured soldiers and later expanded to civilians affected by conflict and disability. The majority of them were victims of land mines. In 2010, the Sri Lankan arm of the organisation was formally registered as the Meththa Rehabilitation Foundation Guarantee Limited, strengthening its ability to deliver sustainable services nationwide.
Today, the Foundation operates four modern rehabilitation centres located in Mahawa, Mankulam, Balapitiya and Kilinochchi. These centres provide prosthetic and orthotic services, posture and mobility support, limb repairs, and rehabilitation assistance to patients from diverse social and economic backgrounds.
Recognising that many disabled individuals live in remote areas with limited access to healthcare, Meththa Foundation also established a mobile outreach service in 2011. Through a successful “Hub and Spoke” model, rehabilitation teams travel regularly to underserved communities, ensuring that patients are not denied care simply because of distance or financial hardship.
The scale of the Foundation’s work is impressive. During 2025 alone, the organisation recorded approximately 2,000 patient contacts, including the provision of 350 new artificial limbs, 850 limb repairs and around 800 other rehabilitation devices. For many beneficiaries, these interventions represent far more than medical treatment; they offer a pathway back to employment, education and social participation.
Innovation has become a hallmark of the Foundation’s approach. Through an active research and development programme, MRFGL has developed affordable prosthetic technologies specifically suited to Sri Lankan conditions. Among its achievements is the development of a modular below-knee artificial limb system manufactured largely from locally sourced materials. The Foundation has also designed low-cost prosthetic knee components that significantly reduce the financial burden on patients while maintaining quality and functionality. These developments are funded by generous International Grants facilitated by affluent members of the Meththa Foundation-UK. Service users are encouraged to donate whatever they can but for those who cannot, which is a majority the services are entirely free.
These innovations not only make rehabilitation more affordable but also strengthen local manufacturing capabilities and reduce dependence on imported components.
Equally important is the Foundation’s commitment for building local expertise. Recognising the shortage of trained rehabilitation professionals in Sri Lanka, Meththa Foundation
established an apprentice-based vocational training programme that recruits and trains young people as prosthetists, orthotists and rehabilitation technicians. Several locally trained staff members are now employed across the Foundation’s centres, helping to create a sustainable workforce for the future.
The organisation’s work has attracted growing recognition within the healthcare sector. Discussions have already taken place with health authorities regarding the potential use of Meththa-designed prosthetic components within Government hospitals. Such collaboration could significantly expand access to affordable rehabilitation services throughout the country.
Beyond its clinical achievements, the Foundation’s impact is measured in restored confidence and renewed independence. Surveys conducted among beneficiaries indicate that many educated amputees successfully return to productive lives after receiving rehabilitation support. However, the findings also highlight an ongoing challenge among poorer and less educated amputees, many of whom struggle to access follow-up care due to transportation difficulties and financial constraints.
To address this issue, the organisation hopes to -expand its mobile services and community outreach programmes. Additional funding would allow rehabilitation teams to reach isolated communities more frequently, ensuring that vulnerable patients continue to receive the support they need.
Operating on an annual expenditure of approximately Rs. 30 million in Sri Lanka, supplemented by overseas fundraising and donations, the Foundation remains heavily reliant on the partnership of charitable trusts such as the Manitha Neyam Trust and LEBARA Foundation and generosity of individual well-wishers. Every contribution directly supports the provision of artificial limbs, mobility devices, training programmes and outreach services for those who might otherwise be left behind.
As Sri Lanka continues to strengthen its healthcare and social welfare systems, organisations such as the Meththa Foundation demonstrate how innovation, volunteerism and dedication can create lasting social
By helping individuals regain mobility and independence, the Foundation is not merely providing artificial limbs—it is rebuilding lives and restoring hope.
For many “beneficiaries, every step they take is a testament to the life-changing work of the Meththa foundation
www.meththafoundation-sl-uk.org
Chairman’s WhatsApp contact number +94 77 788 6119
Prof S P Lamabadusurira, Chairman and Dr B Panagamuwa, ✍️
First Trustee
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