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SUSPICIOUS IN SICILY

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Sicily

(Excerpted from Falling Leaves, an anthology of memoirs by LC Arulpragasam)

Having lived in Italy for many years, we planned a trip to Sicily in April 1975. The idea was met with some alarm among our Sri Lankan friends, since Sicily at that time was cursed with mafia kidnaps and killing. I replied laughingly: ‘what self-respecting mafioso would waste his time kidnapping a poor Sri Lankan?’ We planned to travel with our two younger children (aged 10 and 8 years) in our caravan (trailer/roulotte) to be towed by our trusty old Peugeot 404 station wagon. It was to be a long drive – a total of around 1,000 miles, including travel within Sicily. We reckoned that the countryside would be green, with the fields fresh with the flowers of spring. What we left out of our calculation was the powerful scirocco, the scorching wind that comes blistering out of the deserts of Africa, bringing the sand of the desert even into Sicily.

An interesting geographic feature of Italy is its north-south disposition, making it one of the ‘longest’ countries in Europe, relative to area. This has had the result of it being blessed with wide agro-climatic variations, starting from the ice-bound Alps in the north, to arid Sicily near the African desert in the south. One is struck by the growing barrenness, due to poor rainfall and poorer soils, as one goes southwards towards Sicily. This was matched in those days by pervasive poverty as one proceeded farther south to Eboli, immortalized in Carlo Levi’s book: ‘Christ stopped at Eboli’: because he did not have the heart to go any farther, due to the pervasive poverty and inaccessibility.

In crossing the straits of Messina by car-ferry, we got a glimpse of the Aeolian Islands, especially of Vulcano, the island closest to us. These islands, immortalized by Homer’s Odyssey and Virgil’s Aeneid, were home to Aeolus the God of the Winds, to Vulcan the God of Fire and to the one-eyed Cyclops. Although I wished to see these fabled isles, I knew that in the 1970s they contained little more than volcanoes, sea and sand! But fast-forwarding to today, although the island is full of sun-loving tourists in summer, they are gone by summer’s end, leaving only the cooks and security persons of the hotels behind – and they are 80 per cent of Sri Lankan origin! Thus it has come to pass that Sri Lankans are in charge of the home of Vulcan, the Fire God – if only for the winter!

This is not intended to be a travelogue; so I shall only briefly describe the most impressionable things we saw in Sicily. The most beautiful above all is Taormina, on the eastern coast. The centre-piece is the old Greek amphitheatre which was later enlarged and embellished by the Romans. One can never forget this view, looking down through the white marble pillars of the amphitheater across the brilliant blue of the Aegean Sea with the backdrop of snow-capped Mt. Etna, spewing smoke by day and glowing orange-red at night. The foreground is framed by Greek pillars, choked in a welter of wild flowers: white and yellow daisies, bloodied by the flame of red poppies in spring. It is one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring sights in the world.

From there we travelled along the eastern seaboard to Siracusa (Syracuse). This was one of the centres of ancient Greek civilization and part of Magna Graecia or Greater Greece. Plato and Aristotle were long-term visitors here, while it was also the home of Archimedes and the site of his famous ‘eureka’ moment. From Siracusa we drove to Agrigento, another centre of Greek civilization in Italy. It was a noble city, with white-marbled Greek temples on a ridge of hills overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, justly named the Valley of the Temples. It must have been an impressive sight for Greek travelers to see from the sea this line of temples, decked in white marble, trimmed with gold lining, glimmering in the morning or evening sun. We were allowed to park among the temple ruins by a kind policeman, thus managing to live among these grand ruins for two days, an experience that would be just impossible today. Thus, we were in the temple of Concorde at sunrise watching the sun rise over the Tyrrhenian Sea, while we watched it setting over the mountains from the temple of Juno. We sat in the white-marbled temples in the silence of the moonlight, with only the light-dappled sea lapping on the shore below. It still remains one of our most treasured memories.

From Agrigento (on the southern coast), we cut across the heartland of Sicily, through its barren mountains and poverty-stricken countryside towards Palermo, the capital. These wild mountains are the home of some of the bloodiest mafia clans, including the Corleone family, depicted in the movie, ‘The Godfather’. It is these barren hills that spawned the great Italian migration to New York, which unfortunately also carried with it the poisonous seeds of the mafia.

Cutting across this Sicilian heartland, we arrived in Palermo, the capital city. The cathedrals in Palermo and Monreale take one’s breath away! This part of the world has passed through many imperial and cultural hands: the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, the Vandals, the Goths, the Byzantine Empire, the Arabs, the Normans, the French, the Spanish and other powers of Christendom. What was left behind in Sicily is layer-upon-layer of a very rich, tolerant and vibrant culture that has endured to this day. Having been brainwashed by British history books in colonial Ceylon, I learned with some surprise that the most tolerant and enlightened rulers of all the above were the Muslim Arabs. For it was the Arab rule of 200 years that ushered in the greatest period of peace and tolerance for all religions, especially under the rule of Sala-uddin (Saladin) the Saracen, much-reviled in British history books. On the contrary, it was the Normans and the plundering Christian kings who epitomized the rapaciousness and savagery of the crusades, while later the Catholic Church, through its Inquisition, was to make short shrift of the Jews and Muslims. As for monuments, the main Muslim mosques were made into churches and cathedrals – of which the cathedrals of Palermo and Monreale are the most magnificent. The mosaics and marble carvings in the latter were done mainly by Moslem craftsmen, whose delicate filigree work and in-laid floral designs are matched only by the Moorish remains in Grenada and the Taj Mahal in India.

We had now spent almost two weeks in Sicily and were congratulating ourselves on how lucky we had been on this trip, in terms of weather, places visited, and costs incurred. But at this point, misfortune struck. It came in the form of a scirocco, the blistering wind that comes out of the deserts of Africa in April, scorching Sicilian crops and choking the air with desert sand. On our last lap along the northern coastal road from Palermo to Messina, we had chosen to take the new autostrada so as to avoid the traffic on the lower coastal road. Whereas the latter hugged the curves on the coast, the autostrada rode boldly on the ridge of the mountains. But bowling along on this exposed autostrada, I began to feel the tugs of the wind on the caravan (trailer). Fearing that our caravan might topple over, I sought the first exit down to the lower road, where we were sheltered completely from the wind by the range of inland mountains.

Congratulating myself on my genius in avoiding the scirocco, I drove along this sheltered coastal road. My joy was short-lived. After a while, we came to a gorge – a rift in the mountains – forged by a river flowing to the sea, over which there was a long bridge. On the bridge, we would be fully exposed to the wind which came whistling through, funneled more forcefully through the narrow gorge. We had barely gone a few yards on the bridge when the steering wheel came alive in my hands and the caravan started bucking wildly.

Looking in the rear-view mirror, I saw the caravan actually becoming air-borne, while simultaneously hearing it landing on its side with a crash! The car listed to one side with its rear-end lifted up in the air, caught up in the grotesque embrace of the overturned caravan. We jumped out in panic.

Although the caravan lay on its side, it was luckily still on the bridge, held in place by the latter’s low retaining wall. Although the children had managed to scramble out of the car, they were in danger of being blown off the bridge into the gorge! I got them to crawl off the bridge in the shelter of its low parapet wall. But as soon as they crawled off the latter’s shadow, Anjali, my small daughter of 11 years, was sent staggering, almost airborne, by the wind – so that I had to make a flying rugby tackle to bring her down!

Meanwhile, our upturned caravan and car were in the middle of the bridge, bringing all traffic on this main road to a halt, with traffic piling up at both ends. At this juncture, fortune smiled upon us. Just behind us happened to be a military convoy with many big trucks and equipment, headed by a jeep carrying four high-ranking officers. Since our caravan was now blocking the entire bridge, the military set to work. The caravan still rested on its side, held precariously by the low retaining wall of the bridge, from tipping into the gorge.

In the meantime, the soldiers righted the caravan, so that it stood on its own wheels. But only for a moment: for it was immediately struck down by the wind! So they put it upright again – to be immediately smashed down again. This happened repeatedly! Then I got a bright idea: with the massive army trucks lined up on the windward side of the bridge, we gingerly drove off the bridge to the sheltering shadow of a nearby mountain.

We were told to work our way to the next village two miles away, but were warned by the military officers not to move from there for another three to five days – the normal duration of a scirocco! Since we were really scared, we humbly accepted their instructions and limped our way with difficulty to the nearby village. By this time it was getting dark. So with great trepidation, we found a vacant lot in the shadow of a tall unfinished building, which we hoped would shelter us from the wind.

It was at this time that we noticed that we were not alone: for behind a bush was a swarthy man with a woollen cap, peering at us through the shrubbery. For the first time, I began to wonder whether ‘the natives’ were indeed friendly, or whether we really had reason to be afraid in ‘darkest’ Sicily! After some hide-and-seek, he came forward and told me that they had heard in the village that we had suffered an accident on the bridge. He said that he had come to check whether this was true, and whether he could be of any help. He then beckoned with his finger for me to follow him. He led me to a sort of shed in which other swarthy, unshaven men in woollen caps were sitting around, drinking wine. They all stopped to stare at this coloured stranger in seemingly sinister fashion! Really scared by this time, I excused myself and hastily retreated to our caravan, making sure to bolt the door and windows!

Next morning, with the sun shining brightly and a good breakfast under our belts, our predicament looked less dire. The only problem was that the scirocco was blowing unabated and we had to find a means of repairing our caravan, which was very badly damaged. We were discussing the possibilities when our ‘friend’ of the previous night, whose name was ‘Mario’, arrived along with a younger, better dressed man. We discovered later that most of the villagers had no more than a Grade 3 education: they were either unemployed, or were part-time workers on the railway lines, with rather profitless farming as a sideline.

My interlocutors now insisted that I follow them to another house. Although invited for a chat, I soon found that I was at an ‘interrogation’, with many others present. Led by the better dressed young man, they asked where we lived, where we came from, and where and how I was employed. I tried explaining to them that we were from Sri Lanka: but they had never heard of such a country! All went seemingly well until the better-dressed young man, the chief inquisitor (I later found that he was the only one who had advanced to Grade 5) asked me where I was employed.

To make it simple, I told him that I worked for the United Nations in Rome. ‘Ah- ha’ exclaimed the young man in triumph, turning to his audience: ‘How could he work for the United Nations in Rome when the United Nations is in New York?’ The villagers were impressed by their wise man! Pleadingly, I explained that I worked for the Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO), which was part of the United Nations, but which was actually located in Rome.

But to no avail, because their educated young man had unmasked an impostor! None of my explanations did any good, since their ‘prosecutor’ was grandstanding for his audience! We obviously had ulterior motives in coming to their village. We must be zingari (gypsies), the only dark-skinned people they knew, who also moved around in caravans (roulottes) in order to steal. Besides, they all knew that there was no place called Sri Lanka, and they all knew that the United Nations was not in Rome but in New York! Only Il Papa (the Pope) lived in Rome! So why on earth would we come to their village – if not to steal their chickens?

The rest of the day was spent in trying to get emergency repairs to the gancio, the metal device that linked the car to the caravan. We found that the repairs needed three days. When we returned that evening to our damaged caravan, we found that our little daughter, Anjali, had done much to restore our status. A number of children had come to the land below our caravan to see the strangers, and one of them had recognized that we were speaking English. So the shout went up in the village: ‘they are speaking English; they are speaking English!’ By the next day, Anjali added further to our brownie points. Seated on her perch on the retaining wall, she commanded a group of about ten children in their English lessons, repeating after her: ‘c-a-t: cat; m-a-t: mat’, etc.

After three days of sitting out the scirocco and repairing the gancio, we prepared to set out as soon as the wind died down. On our last day, our friend Mario invited us to lunch at his home. This was a great social break-through – since it seemed to show that at least one person in the village trusted us. It was a poor house, barely furnished, with a show of mildewed ‘lace’ (plastic) curtains in the window.

We learned more about the hard life of these poor people, largely uneducated and unemployed, with only part-time casual work on the railway lines. He also told us that the villagers feared that we were zingari (gypsies) who had really come to their village to steal their chickens, but that he really did not believe this. He insisted on coming to see us off the next morning and was almost tearful when we parted. In parting, however, he begged me to please answer one last question. Pleadingly he asked me: ‘Tell me truly, why didn’t you try to steal our chickens?’

Looking back on this delightful but disastrous trip, I was amused that whereas our Sri Lankans friends had been fearful of the Sicilians, the poor Sicilians (at least in this poor village) were more fearful of us Sri Lankans: fearful that we would steal their chickens!



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I just wanted to get it stamped: A seven-hour stamp at DIE

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There is a short story by Gabriel García Márquez, Nobel laureate, master of the human comedy and its agonies, called “I Just Want to Use the Telephone.” A woman breaks down on a Spanish highway, hitches a lift to the nearest town, and simply wants to make a telephone call to tell her husband she will be late. What follows is a Kafkaesque nightmare of misunderstanding, and catastrophic bureaucratic misinterpretation that swallows her whole life. She ends up committed to an asylum. She never makes the call.

Another Nobel laureate, Milan Kundera’s The Joke, in which a Czech student writes a postcard with a harmless witticism, and the machinery of misinterpretation grinds his entire existence to dust. Two writers, two languages, two very different political contexts, and the same essential theme: the terrifying consequences of systems that refuse to think, administered by officials who refuse to listen, imposed on individuals who simply wanted something simple and ordinary.

I thought of both of them, sitting in Room 20 of the Department of Immigration and Emigration (DIE) in Battaramulla, on a perfectly ordinary morning, waiting. I just wanted to get it stamped.

The Stamp

The matter was, on its face, trivially simple. My passport carries an information page stating it is valid until 30 March 2028. It also carries, on the following page, an endorsement, a condition, restricting the passport’s validity to five years, expiring 30 March 2023. This restriction had been imposed, I was informed, because at the time of issuance I did not possess a National Identity Card (NIC) issued by the Department of Registration of Persons (DRP). Once I obtained the NIC, I was told, the condition could be cancelled by a simple further stamp. A straightforward administrative correction. A bureaucratic afterthought.

So, I arrived at the Department of Immigration and Emigration, the DIE, an acronym one cannot help but notice carries its own dark poetry, with the relevant form, the relevant fee, and my NIC. I submitted my application at approximately nine o’clock in the morning. The officer directed me to wait. I waited.

Modern technology is a mercy in such moments. The smartphone, that great time killer, allows us to read, to write, to attend to correspondence, to think. I attended to productive work. The waiting room filled and thinned and filled again around me. The morning gave way to afternoon.

The call came at around four o’clock in the afternoon, a full seven hours, hungry, thirsty, anxious waiting, for a stamp. My NIC had been referred for verification to the DRP which is located in the same building, different floor though, the verification had taken seven hours to travel vertically between floors and return. My passport was finally stamped. The restricting condition was cancelled. I was free to go. Seven hours. One building. Two floors. A stamp.

The Geography of Absurdity

Let us be precise about the geometry of this situation, because precision is what bureaucracy demands of citizens while refusing it for itself.

The information that one department needed from the other, confirmation that a national identity card bearing a specific number belonged to a specific person, is information that both departments already hold, in files, in databases, in the digital records that both institutions have been building for years.

That information was not retrieved electronically. It was not confirmed through an intranet query that would have taken thirty seconds. It was not verified through any of the digital systems that Sri Lanka’s Digital National Strategy 2030 promises to build, or that the World Bank’s $50 million Digital Transformation Project, approved in December 2025, is supposed to finance, or that President Dissanayake, who is himself the minister responsible for digitisation, has repeatedly pledged to accelerate. The information was physically transported, on paper or on foot or through some process that consumed seven hours, between two offices in the same building.

A Retired Banker’s Letter and a Nation’s Pattern

I am not alone in this observation, and I am not the first to make it in print. A well-known retired banker wrote to the letters pages of a national newspaper not long ago with a complaint that has since circulated widely among the professional and business community. His concern was the unnecessary duplication of bureaucratic processes in Sri Lanka’s government agencies, the requirement to submit the same information repeatedly to different departments that have no mechanism for sharing it with each other.

His example was instructive: a company that changes its registered address must deal separately with the Registrar of Companies (RC) and the Inland Revenue Department (IRD), resubmitting information that both institutions already hold. Two forms, two queues, two sets of fees, two sets of officials who will each process the same fact, that the company has moved, in complete ignorance of the other’s proceedings. He contrasted this with South Korea, where customs efficiency and trade facilitation have been systematically modernised, and where single-window processes allow firms to submit information once and have it flow automatically to all relevant authorities.

The contrast is not merely between administrative cultures. It is between two different philosophies of what government is for. In the South Korean conception, and in Singapore’s, and in Estonia’s, and in the many countries that have successfully digitised their public services, government exists to process the citizen’s legitimate needs with minimum friction. In the Sri Lankan conception, as it is actually practised rather than rhetorically proclaimed, the citizen exists to process the government’s requirements, repeatedly, in person, in queues, with multiple original documents, at multiple counters, on multiple occasions, regardless of how many times the same information has already been submitted.

This is not a trivial inconvenience. It is a structural tax on every productive citizen and every legitimate enterprise in the country.

The Rhetoric and the Reality

Digitalisation is, on paper, precisely the intervention that would have prevented my seven-hour wait: a delay that a single intranet query, a database check, or a digital confirmation could have eliminated. The technology is not exotic. The conceptual framework already exists. The international funding is arriving (USD50 Mn from the World Bank). The President has made the speeches.

That lagging did not happen because Sri Lanka lacked talent, the Senior Advisor to the President on Digitalization, Dr. Hans Wijayasuriya, has stated that Sri Lanka already possesses 75% of the necessary skills to build a strong digital economy. It happened because institutional culture, interdepartmental rivalry, and the chronic prioritisation of process over outcome have conspired to keep the citizen in the queue long after the queue should have ceased to exist.

The Innocent and the System

Here is the cruellest feature of the Sri Lankan bureaucratic condition, and the one that García Márquez and Kundera both understood with novelist’s precision: the systems are designed, or have calcified into designs, that punish the innocent for the sins of the guilty.

The five-year restriction on my passport existed because some applicants, in the past, had submitted fraudulent identity documents to obtain passports. The solution was to restrict all passports issued without NIC verification, regardless of the individual applicant’s circumstances, regardless of whether there was any evidence of fraud, regardless of the disproportionate cost imposed on genuine citizens. A few bad actors found a loophole. The system’s response was to close the loophole by inconveniencing everyone else, permanently, until they proved themselves worthy of having the loophole closed in their particular case.

This is the bureaucratic logic that produced the waiting room in Battaramulla. It is also the logic that produced the multiple-submission requirement for company address changes, and the interminable queue at every government counter in every district of the island. The system never trusts the citizen. The citizen must always prove, again and again, what has already been proved. And the cost of that proof, in time, in money, in lost productive hours, in the quiet erosion of civic dignity, is paid not by the officials who designed the system, nor by the fraudsters whose behaviour prompted it, but by the ordinary person who just wanted something simple.

What a Stamp Can Tell You About a Nation

There is a measure used by international organisations to assess the quality of governance in a given country. It asks, among other things, how many days it takes to start a business, how many procedures are required to register property, how many agencies a citizen must visit to accomplish a routine administrative task. Sri Lanka’s scores on these measures have been a source of persistent embarrassment.

The first is genuine inter-agency data sharing, not a pilot project, not a working committee, not a memorandum of understanding that sits unimplemented, but a functioning intranet infrastructure through which the DRP’s identity records are accessible to the DIE, through which the RC’s records are accessible to the IRD, through which the citizen’s information, once submitted anywhere in the system, does not need to be submitted again. The World Bank project promises exactly this. It must be delivered.

The second is a single-window principle applied without exception to all citizen services. If a process requires verification from another agency, that verification is the government’s problem to obtain, not the citizens’. The citizen submits once. The system talks to itself.

The third, and this is the hardest, because it requires not technology but culture, is the genuine subordination of process to outcome. The process exists to serve the citizen’s legitimate need. When it ceases to do so, the process is broken, not the citizen.

García Márquez’s woman never made her telephone call.

Kundera’s student never recovered from his postcard joke.

I got my stamp — eventually.

(The writer, a senior Chartered Accountant and professional banker, is Professor at SLIIT, Malabe. The views and opinions expressed in this article are personal.)

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Sri Lanka’s vanishing wetlands put elusive otter under growing threat

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International Eurasian Otter Workshop-Colchester, United Kingdom

The world marked World Otter Day 2026 recently. Conservationists are warning that Sri Lanka’s rapidly disappearing wetlands, polluted waterways and unplanned development are placing increasing pressure on one of the island’s most elusive freshwater predators, the Eurasian otter (Lutra lutra).

The species, locally known as “Diya Balla”, is the only otter found in Sri Lanka and is regarded as a key indicator of healthy freshwater ecosystems. Yet despite its ecological importance, experts say the animal remains poorly studied and largely overlooked in national conservation planning.

Naturalist and conservationist Chaminda Jayasekara, who has spent years documenting otters in Sri Lanka, said the species is facing mounting environmental pressures across the island.

Speaking to The Island, Jayasekara said habitat destruction, chemical pollution, road kills, sand mining, and increasing human disturbance are fragmenting the waterways on which otters depend.

“Otters are extremely sensitive animals. When wetlands are degraded or rivers become polluted, they disappear very quickly. Their survival is directly linked to the health of freshwater ecosystems,” he said.

Jayasekara, who specialised in MSc Environmental Management at the University of Hertfordshire, noted that while the species has been recorded across Sri Lanka’s wet zone, dry zone and coastal wetlands, scientific data on population numbers and distribution remain limited.

According to him, the decline of wetlands has become one of the most serious environmental issues facing Sri Lanka. Marshes, mangroves, irrigation tanks and riverine habitats are increasingly being altered by urban expansion, tourism infrastructure, encroachment and agricultural runoff.

He warns that the loss of these habitats not only threatens otters, but also weakens flood control systems, freshwater security and biodiversity resilience at a time when climate-related disasters are becoming more frequent.

Jayasekara said otters play a vital ecological role by helping maintain balanced fish populations and healthy aquatic ecosystems.

“When otters thrive, it tells us the river system is functioning properly. Their presence is a sign that water quality, fish diversity and habitat conditions remain healthy,” he explained.

One of the best-known locations for otter sightings in Sri Lanka is Aranga Pond, within the Horton Plains National Park, where the species has adapted to the island’s cold montane ecosystem.

However, conservationists stress that even protected areas are not immune to broader environmental degradation occurring outside park boundaries.

Jayasekara’s own work on otters gained prominence through long-term conservation efforts at Jetwing Vil Uyana, where a former degraded chena landscape was restored into a functioning wetland ecosystem.

The restored habitat eventually attracted Eurasian otters, fishing cats, grey slender lorises and numerous wetland bird species.

Over 14 years, Jayasekara carried out field observations, camera trapping and awareness programmes involving hotel staff, surrounding schools and local communities.

“What happened at Vil Uyana clearly showed that habitat restoration works. If degraded ecosystems are given time to recover, wildlife can return naturally,” he said.

He added that wetland restoration should become a central component of Sri Lanka’s environmental policy, particularly as climate change intensifies droughts, floods and biodiversity loss.

Chaminda collecting scat for research purposes in Sigiriya

He says wetlands are among the planet’s most productive ecosystems, functioning as natural water filters and carbon sinks while providing breeding grounds for fish, amphibians and aquatic mammals.

Yet globally, wetlands are disappearing at an alarming rate, and Sri Lanka is no exception.

Conservation groups have repeatedly warned that illegal waste disposal, pesticide contamination and poorly planned infrastructure projects are severely affecting freshwater ecosystems throughout the country.

Jayasekara also highlighted the importance of stronger environmental education and community participation in conservation.

“Awareness is still very limited. Many people living close to wetlands do not realise the ecological importance of otters or the threats they face,” he said.

According to him, involving local communities in conservation monitoring is essential if Sri Lanka hopes to safeguard the species in the long term.

He also pointed to the growing international interest in otter conservation.

In November 2025, Jayasekara represented Sri Lanka at the International Eurasian Otter Conservation Workshop held at Colchester Zoo and organised by the International Otter Survival Fund.

The workshop brought together nearly 100 researchers, conservationists and wildlife experts from 33 countries to discuss emerging threats facing Eurasian otter populations.

Jayasekara presented Sri Lanka’s experience under the theme Rewilding Through Hospitality, focusing on how habitat restoration and sustainable tourism practices at Vil Uyana contributed to otter conservation.

“The international response was extremely encouraging. Many delegates were surprised that a tourism property in Sri Lanka had quietly carried out wetland conservation work for more than a decade,” he said.

Discussions at the workshop also examined wider environmental concerns including river pollution, declining fish stocks, illegal killings and habitat fragmentation affecting otter populations across Europe and Asia.

New conservation technologies such as AI-assisted wildlife tracking and environmental DNA surveys were also highlighted as emerging tools for monitoring elusive species.

Jayasekara said Sri Lanka urgently requires more scientific surveys, stronger environmental law enforcement and greater investment in freshwater conservation research.

He warned that unless wetlands and waterways are protected, several lesser-known freshwater species could face severe decline in the coming decades.

Environmentalists say otter conservation should not be viewed in isolation but as part of a broader effort to protect entire freshwater ecosystems that millions of Sri Lankans depend on for drinking water, irrigation and livelihoods.

He further noted that healthy wetlands also strengthen climate resilience by absorbing floodwaters, reducing soil erosion and supporting groundwater recharge.

As Sri Lanka experiences increasingly erratic weather patterns linked to climate change, conservationists argue that protecting wetlands is becoming both an ecological and economic necessity.

Jayasekara believes Sri Lanka still has an opportunity to become a regional example in balancing tourism, biodiversity conservation and habitat restoration.

“The otter teaches us an important lesson,” he said. “If rivers are protected and wetlands are respected, nature has an incredible ability to recover.”

This year’s observance of World Otter Day 2026 is, therefore, serving not only as a celebration of one of the world’s most charismatic mammals, but also as a reminder of the urgent need to conserve the fragile freshwater ecosystems upon which both wildlife and human communities ultimately depend.

Eurasian otter

By Ifham Nizam

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Malaiyaha Tamil people: Healing the Oldest Wound of Independence

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Hands of a Maliayaha tea estate worker

In their Vesak messages this year, President Anura Kumara Dissanayake and Prime Minister Harini Amarasuriya highlighted the values of reconciliation, coexistence and justice as essential to Sri Lanka’s future. President Dissanayake emphasised that Buddhism’s teachings remain deeply relevant to contemporary society and described Vesak as a symbol of “mutual understanding, unity and coexistence among all communities” and of reconciliation itself. Prime Minister Amarasuriya similarly called for the building of a society in which justice is assured to all irrespective of caste, race or religion. These messages were not merely religious aspirations, they were a direct challenge to the most serious failures in Sri Lanka’s post-independence history. These include the three-decade-long war, its human rights violations and the inability to implement a political solution.

These have been and continue to be the challenges that have prevented Sri Lanka from reaching its full potential. Added to this have been the persistence of social and economic inequalities that continue to marginalise communities at the bottom of the social hierarchy. One of the most enduring examples of such injustice is the experience of the Malaiyaha Tamil community. The scale of the original exclusion is worth understanding clearly. According to the 1946 Census, the Malaiyaha Tamil community numbered approximately 780,600 persons and constituted 11.73 percent of the country’s population making them the second largest ethnic community, larger than the Sri Lankan Tamil community who numbered 733,700 or 11.02 percent of the population at the time

The denial of citizenship and voting rights to the Malaiyaha Tamil community was the first major injustice inflicted on an ethnic minority in post-independence Sri Lanka. The consequences were devastating and long-lasting. A community that had contributed enormously to the country’s economy through its labour on the plantations was excluded from political participation and denied basic rights. This was a political and moral failure that cast a long shadow over the country’s post-independence history. Responsibility for that injustice needs to be shared widely. Political leaders across ethnic lines failed to resist it. The result was the marginalisation of a community whose contribution to national prosperity far exceeded the recognition it received. Today, nearly eight decades later, Sri Lanka has an opportunity to correct that historic wrong but only if economic reform is matched by genuine social inclusion.

Longstanding Grievances

The NPP government has repeatedly acknowledged the need to address the longstanding grievances of the Malaiyaha Tamil people. In its election manifesto, the NPP pledged to improve living conditions in plantation areas, strengthen land and housing rights, ensure equal access to education and public services, and integrate plantation communities more fully into national development. The NPP’s Nuwara Eliya Declaration of 2023 similarly recognised that the plantation community had suffered generations of exclusion and promised measures to address disparities in housing, land ownership, infrastructure, education and economic opportunity. The need for such action is plain to see. While citizenship issues have largely been resolved over time, the socio-economic consequences of decades of exclusion remain deeply entrenched and continue to shape daily life in plantation communities.  A conference organised by the Institute of Social Development to mark International Tea Day on May 21 at the BMICH brought out this and many other salient issues.  Headed by P Muthulingam the organisation has advocated for the rights of the Malaiyaha Tamil people for the past 35 years to be equal citizens who enjoy social and economic justice.

The central problem facing many plantation workers is the low level of income they receive. Daily wages remain among the lowest in the country relative to the difficulty and intensity of the work. Plantation labour continues to depend heavily on methods that have changed little over generations. Productivity remains low compared to competing tea-producing countries — not because workers lack capability, but because sustained investment in their welfare, skills and economic mobility has been withheld. Workers consequently remain trapped in a cycle of low wages and limited economic mobility. Their housing situation compounds these difficulties. Many plantation families continue to live in housing owned either by plantation companies or the state. Lack of secure ownership limits their ability to accumulate assets, access credit or make independent decisions regarding their future. When Cyclone Ditwah damaged plantation housing, it exposed the inability of those living in that housing to access state compensation as they did not own the housing in which they lived.

The problems extend beyond the central highlands. Plantation workers living in private estates and smallholdings in other parts of the country face similar challenges. A recent Amnesty International report documented serious abuses affecting Malaiyaha Tamil workers in private tea estates in the Southern Province.  These include wage withholding, debt dependency, restrictions on movement and intimidation and practices the report argued correspond to internationally recognised indicators of forced labour. These findings are not peripheral. They reveal that the structural exclusion of the Malaiyaha Tamil community is not a relic of the past but an active, ongoing condition. Economic vulnerability and social marginalisation continue to leave many plantation workers without effective protection or access to justice. It is against this backdrop that the government’s recent plantation reform initiative assumes special significance.

Second Phase

The government has announced the second phase of a programme to make underutilised plantation lands and assets available for investment. The objective is to transform underperforming assets into productive enterprises capable of generating employment, attracting investment and revitalising regional economies. The programme seeks to modernise the plantation sector, improve productivity and create new opportunities in tourism, renewable energy and export-oriented industries. These objectives are necessary and welcome. However, economic reform alone will not be sufficient and Sri Lanka’s own history provides the warning. Previous rounds of plantation modernisation pursued productivity gains without addressing the structural disempowerment of the people at the centre of the industry. The result was investment that generated wealth without distributing it.  The workers who produced the wealth were once again treated as labour inputs rather than as beneficiaries. If the current reform follows the same logic, it risks reproducing the same failure.

For reform to succeed, plantation workers must be recognised not merely as a labour force but as stakeholders with rights, aspirations and a legitimate claim to share in the benefits of development. Housing ownership, secure land tenure, quality education, vocational training and entrepreneurship need to be built into the reform process from the outset. The government’s commitments to the Malaiyaha Tamil community therefore need to be incorporated into every stage of the reform process. On the contentious question of land, the government should consider establishing an independent national land commission. Such a body should include respected government officials, professionals and representatives from all ethnic and religious communities. It should review land policy comprehensively, develop transparent principles for allocation and use, ensure fairness in decision making and provide a trusted mechanism for resolving disputes. A credible land commission would help build public confidence that land reforms are being undertaken in the national interest rather than for the benefit of particular groups.

The correction of historic injustices should not be viewed as a concession to one community. It should be understood as an investment in national unity, because societies do not become stronger by maintaining the exclusion of those they have wronged.  On the contrary, they become stronger by ending it. The first great injustice committed against an ethnic minority after independence cannot be undone. But its consequences can be addressed, and doing so would strengthen reconciliation, enhance social cohesion and bring Sri Lanka closer to the vision of a country in which all communities live with equal dignity and equal hope. This is what the Vesak messages of the President and Prime Minister promised. The plantation reform now underway is the moment to make good on that promise not in words alone, but in sustained policy that endures beyond any single government and reaches the people who have waited longest for it.

by Jehan Perera

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