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MY FIRST OVERSEAS BUSINESS VISIT

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First overseas busines visit- Japen 1960

Excerpted from the autobiography of Merril. J. Fernando

Before I set out for Jap1an, in 1960, on my first overseas business trip, I was advised by Terrence Allan of AF Jones to be extremely careful in the manner that I dealt with our agents in Japan, H. J. Kramer Limited, a Japanese company headed by Otto Gerhardt, a German national. Apparently, Gerhardt had been very apprehensive when he heard that I was due to visit him, as, previously, he had had only British Directors of the company on business visits.

He had been very concerned for his business and the interviews we had arranged. He did not know me personally and may have been very doubtful of my competence, whilst the fact that I was an unknown and unproven Asian would have also contributed significantly to his misgivings.

My first official meeting in Japan was with our biggest importer, Mitsui Norin. Two of its Directors, Messrs. Evakura and Saito, invited me to a tasting session – much to the surprise of Gerhardt. He was very nervous about the possible outcome, as if I did anything to displease or disappoint the Japanese clients, there was the possibility of losing a very good customer.

I started tasting the teas which had been set out and, at one point, came to a very zippy tea, much like a very good Darjeeling. When my hosts asked me about the identity of the tea, quite naturally I said that it was a Darjeeling but they disagreed and said that it was a Japanese tea. I responded that it could not be since in Japan they produced only Green Tea, Sencha, as I was unaware then that Japan produced quality Black Tea.

After the tasting session Otto told our Japanese hosts that he was taking me to Atami because I wanted to see Mount Fuji and, jokingly, invited them to join. To his very pleasant surprise, they welcomed the idea and accompanied us. Atami is a picturesque seaside resort, south west of Tokyo, set within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and also the home to Mount Fuji. On our way to Fuji we broke journey and checked into a traditional Japanese hotel in Atami itself. I was shown to a rather bare room which had a clothes cupboard but no bed. When I inquired I was told that a bed would be provided.

Japanese hospitality

Soon afterwards a traditionally-dressed Japanese lady came into my room, undressed me completely, and took me into a Japanese-style bathing stall. I sat on a large cane box whilst she poured soothing warm water over me. Thereafter, I was led back in to the bedroom which, by then, had been equipped, not with a conventional bed but a Japanese-style sleeping mattress and comfortable sheets.

The dinner which followed was again of delicately-prepared Japanese dishes and local wine. Right through the meal we were attended to by Geisha type hostesses, who sat demurely by each guest’s side and, unobtrusively, but with perfect timing, anticipated our minutest needs. After two very pleasant and adventurous days, we returned to Tokyo to resume our business discussions.

To Otto’s surprise and apprehension, Evakura and Saito invited me to their office for another tea tasting session. When I arrived I was confronted with a batch of teas, which included the same Japanese equivalent of Darjeeling tea. After tasting the samples, when I identified those teas as Japanese, my hosts contradicted me and said that it was Darjeeling, despite my repeated insistence to the contrary. Notwithstanding this disagreement, the visit ended very well. I am still convinced that I was right and they were simply testing my competence as a taster. Had they been disappointed, I am certain that they would have made it known in some way.

Consequent to my visit, our business with Japan increased fourfold — much to the annoyance of Lipton, then the major supplier to Japan. In fact, Claude Godwin, Lipton’s then Managing Director, asked me not to visit Japan ever again. Indeed, my first business visit overseas on behalf of A. F. Jones resulted in very satisfactory outcomes for the company. Following the visit to Japan, at different times, I made several visits on behalf of A. F. Jones to Libya and Iraq, two of our most productive markets in that period.

My success at A. F. Jones and Co. Limited, which was appreciated by my employer, was due to both good fortune and extremely hard work. I was personally deeply satisfied by the favourable results I was able to secure, despite the fact that many aspects of the relevant operations were quite new to me.

Opening of the USSR market

The General Election of 1956, which swept out the United National Party (UNP) and brought in the Mahajana Eksath Peramuna (MEP) coalition forces led by S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike, soon had its impact on international relations between Sri Lanka and the rest of the world. The anti-imperialist orientation of Premier Bandaranaike’s regime encouraged stronger ties with Marxist governments and, in December 1958, during my time at A. F. Jones, the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR – Russia) established its first Embassy in Ceylon.

This development was a consequence of formal diplomatic relations between the two countries being established in 1957. Subsequently, the many bilateral agreements signed between the two countries included the export of tea, rubber, coconut oil, and coir products. These agreements were renewed and updated in 1964, 1975, and 1977.

Traditionally, Russians were big tea drinkers, with imports being largely Black Tea from China. The first consignments of Ceylon Tea had reached Russia in the 1890s, with exports from Ceylon going up to about 18 million pounds annually by 1910. However, this was minimalistic in comparison to imports from China, which then were around 120 million pounds. After trade relations were disrupted consequent to the 1917 Bolshevik revolution in Russia, there was a four-decade lull in trading activity with Ceylon.

The first USSR Ambassador to Ceylon, Alexander Nikolaevich Yakovlev, was introduced to me by a mutual friend. Yakovlev was a friendly man and got on well with us. He requested me to help his Trade Counsellor, Felix I. Mikailchenkov, to set up a tea tasting facility in a house on Thurstan Road leased out by them for that purpose. When it was completed in mid-1958, Felix said: “I am entrusting you with the responsibility of purchasing our entire requirements of Ceylon Tea.” I did not realize how big the business would be until their orders arrived.

They turned out to be quite substantial, around three to four million kg per month, mainly of good High Grown BOPS and Pekoes. In view of the volume of tea involved, many of the larger firms operating in Colombo attempted to secure the purchasing, but the relationship I had already established with the Russian representatives stood me, and A. F. Jones, in good stead.

That rapid and unexpected increase in Russian buying had a significant impact on the auction, as our large purchases of High Grown tea became a regular feature. It resulted in A. F. Jones becoming the sole buyer on behalf of Russia and a big player at the auction. The Jones family was very grateful for my contribution to this welcome business development and presented me with a silver plaque, inscribed with the legend ‘MOCKBA — December 8, 1958’. It is still displayed prominently in my office at Peliyagoda.

Until the sudden development of the Russian market, the bulk of the AFJ business centred on the Middle East, with strong attachments in Libya, Iraq, and Iran. Whenever a Russian ship arrived in port to collect their tea, which was often at short notice, there would be a major crisis in our office. We used to start processing just prior to arrival of the vessels, as the tea chests arriving from the estates were not opened but shipped out in bulk, in their original form.

Sightseeing in japen -1960

However, four sides of each chest had to be marked with Russian text, defining the various Russian brands under which the product would be sold in Russia. Senior Managers at the Port, especially C. D. Chinnakoon, were of great assistance to me in such emergency situations. He would buy me time by holding ships in the outer harbour, pending berthing, and somehow providing berths when we were ready with our consignment.

Our Colombo Harbour then had limited alongside berthing facilities. Chinnakoon was a great friend and I always kept in touch with him. Unfortunately, he had an untimely death and I pray that he is in the hands of God.

We serviced the Russian market until the Sri Lankan Government entered in to a direct agreement with the Russian administration, and the tea buying was entrusted to Consolexpo.The Russian rubber business was carried out by C. W. Mackie under the supervision of Karu Jayasuriya, business manager now turned politician.

My Russian connections

Yakovlev, a senior Russian diplomat even at the time he arrived in Ceylon, became well known in the country for his very effective interaction with his Ceylonese counterparts, whilst his tireless promotion of USSR interests within the country, apart from tea, earned him many friends in the business community. On conclusion of his term in Ceylon he returned to the Foreign Ministry in Moscow. He subsequently served a 10-year term (1973-1983) as Russia’s Ambassador to Canada.

He was a very powerful party official in Russia, apparently very close to Prime Minister Mikhail Gorbachev. After his return from Canada on completion of his ambassadorial assignment, he served for several years as a member of both the Politburo and the Secretariat of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union. He is identified as the primary intellectual force behind ‘Glasnost’ and `Perestroika,’ highly influential in guiding Gorbachev’s hand in the latter’s political reform initiatives.

In ‘Gorbachev’ by William Taubman, possibly the most comprehensive original English biography of the architect of Perestroika, the author refers to Yakovlev as Gorbachev’s closest ally in Government. Until his death in 2005, Yakovlev remained politically very active and was also the author of several books, on diverse aspects of Russian contemporary political history.

In 1970, Yakovlev was replaced in Ceylon by Rafiq Nishonov, again a friendly, warm-hearted man. Eventually, both he and Rano, his gracious and friendly wife, became our family friends. One of his daughters, Firouza, was actually born during his term in Sri Lanka and together, they would frequently accompany me for holidays at my upcountry retreat, Melton Estate, in Lindula.

Rafiq, of Uzbek origin, served as Russian Ambassador in Sri Lanka from 1970-1978. During his period our tea export operations, supported by generous Russian patronage, grew considerably. Rafiq was always helpful to the local tea trading community, but ensured that his country’s interests were never compromised. Consequent to his return to USSR, he became heavily involved in party activities in his native Uzbekistan and between 1986 and 1989, served terms as Chairman of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic and also, as First Secretary of the Communist Party of the Uzbek SSR.

I later learnt from him that he had been actively involved in assisting then Prime Minister Gorbachev, whom he was very close to, in resolving some tricky issues connected to the Russian entanglement in Afghanistan. I also understood that they were covert operations, deliberately withheld from the public domain.

On many visits to Moscow, I had several meetings with both Rafiq and his wife. Several times I was taken to his holiday ‘dacha’ in the country and also to the special hospital reserved for senior parliamentarians when I needed any medical attention. He also introduced me to several important Government officials, including the present Foreign Minister of Russia, Sergei Lavrov, who served in Ceylon during Rafiq’s tenure as Ambassador. In fact, during Rafiq’s term as Ambassador in Ceylon, because of Lavrov’s fluent command of Sinhala, he also served as Rafiq’s interpreter on official occasions.

Rafiq’s Deputy at the USSR Embassy was the big, powerfully-built Sasha Lysenko, a man of considerable influence in local diplomatic circles. Our business association developed in to personal friendship as well, and he and his wife became great friends with me. My close interaction with Russian diplomatic and trade representatives in Sri Lanka, provided me with highly-beneficial access to their counterparts and associates in Moscow. These contacts and relationships built up over the years were of great help to me subsequently in the development of my Dilmah brand.

I made my first business visit to Russia in 1962. Most of the Russian officials serving in various capacities in Sri Lanka, who I met in the course of my business, also became great personal friends. Without exception, I found them to be warm and friendly, naturally gregarious and, as a group, with a great capacity for enjoyment. Most of the Russians I met, both in Sri Lanka and in their home country, were, by and large, Asiatic in their unaffected friendliness and camaraderie, though they did take time to measure you. Once the ice was broken, they took you into their hearts and their homes. The difference between them and the typical Westerners, with their more restrained and often-guarded responses, was easily discernible.



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Sri Lanka’s new govt.: Early promise, growing concerns

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President Anura Kumara Dissanayake’s demeanour, body language, and speaking style appear to have changed noticeably in recent weeks, a visible sign of embarrassment. The most likely reason is a stark contradiction between what he once publicly criticised and analysed so forcefully, and what his government is actually doing today. His own recent speeches seem to reflect that contradiction, sometimes coming across as confused and inconsistent. This is becoming widely known, not just through social media, YouTube, and television discussions, but also through speeches on the floor of Parliament itself.

Doing exactly what the previous government did

What is now becoming clear is that instead of doing things the way the President promised, his government is simply carrying on with what the previous administration, particularly Ranil Wickremesinghe’s government, was already doing. Critically, some of the most senior positions in the state, positions that demand the most experienced and capable officers, are being filled by people who are loyal to the JVP/NPP party but lack the relevant qualifications and track record.

Such politically motivated appointments have already taken place across various government ministries, some state corporations, the Central Bank, the Treasury, and at multiple levels of the public service. There have also been forced resignations, bans on resignations, and transfers of officials.

What makes this particularly serious is that President Dissanayake has had to come to Parliament repeatedly to defend and “clean up” the reputations of officials he himself appointed. This looks, at times, like a painful and almost theatrical exercise.

The coal procurement scandal, and a laughable inquiry

The controversy around the country’s coal power supply has now clearly exposed a massive disaster: shady tenders, damage to the Norochcholai power plant, rising electricity bills due to increased diesel use to compensate, a shortage of diesel, higher diesel prices, and serious environmental damage. This is a wide and well-documented catastrophe.

Yet, when a commission was appointed to investigate, the government announced it would look into events going back to 2009, which many have called an absurd joke, clearly designed to deflect blame rather than find answers.

The Treasury scandal, 10 suspicious transactions

At the Treasury, what was initially presented as a single transaction, is alleged to involve 10 transactions, and it is plainly a case of fraud. A genuine mistake might happen once or twice. As one commentator said sarcastically, “If a mistake can happen 10 times, it must be a very talented hand.” These explanations are being treated as pure comedy.

Attempts to justify all of this have sometimes turned threatening. A speech made on May 1st by Tilvin Silva is a case in point, crude and menacing in tone.

Is the government losing its grip?

Former Minister Patali Champika has said the government is now suffering from a phobia of loss of power, meaning it is struggling to govern effectively. Other commentators have noted that the NPP/JVP may have taken on a burden too heavy to carry. Political cartoons have depicted the NPP’s crown loaded with coal, financial irregularities, and political appointments, bending under the weight.

The problem with appointing loyalists over qualified professionals

Appointing own supporters to senior positions is not itself unusual in politics. But it becomes a betrayal of public trust when those appointed lack the basic qualifications or relevant experience for the roles they are given.

A clear example is the appointment of the Treasury Secretary, someone who was visible at virtually every NPP election campaign event, but whose qualifications and exposure/experiences may not match the demands of such a critical position. Even if someone has a doctorate or professorship, the key question is whether those qualifications are relevant to the role, and whether that person has the experience/exposure to lead a team of seasoned professionals.

By contrast, even someone without formal academic credentials can succeed if they have the right skills and surround themselves with advisors with relevant exposure. The real failure is when loyalty to a political party overrides all other considerations, that is a fundamental betrayal of responsibility.

The problem is not unique to this government. In 2015, the appointment of Arjuna Mahendran as Central Bank Governor was a similar blunder. His tenure ended in scandal involving insider dealing and bond market manipulation. However, in that case, the funds involved were frozen and later confiscated by the following government, however legally questionable that process was.

The current Treasury losses, by contrast, may be unrecoverable. Critics say getting that money back would be next to impossible.

The broader damage: Demoralisation of capable officials

When loyalists are placed above competent career officials in key positions, it demoralises the best public servants. Some begin to comply in fear; others lose motivation entirely. The professional hierarchy breaks down. Junior officials start looking over their shoulders instead of doing their jobs. This collective dysfunction is ultimately what destroys governments.

Sri Lanka’s pattern: every government falls

This pattern is deeply familiar in Sri Lankan history. The SWRD Bandaranaike government, which swept to power in 1956 on a wave of popular support, had declined badly by 1959. The coalition government, which came to power reducing the opposition to eight seats, lost in 1977, and, in turn, the UNP, which came in on a landslide, in 1977, crushing the SLFP to just eight seats, suffered a similar fate by 1994.

Mahinda Rajapaksa came to power in 2005 by the narrowest of margins, in part because the LTTE manipulated the Northern vote against Ranil Wickremesinghe. But he was re-elected in 2010 on the strength of ending the war against the LTTE. Still, by 2015, he was voted out, because the benefits of winning the war were never truly delivered to ordinary people, and because large-scale corruption had taken root in the meantime. Gotabaya Rajapaksa didn’t even last long enough to see his term end.

Now, this government, too, is showing early signs of the same decline.

The ideological contradiction at the heart of the NPP

There is another challenge: though the JVP presents itself as a left-wing, Marxist-socialist party, many of those who joined the broader NPP coalition, businesspeople, academics, professionals, do not hold such ideological views. Balancing a left-leaning party with a centre-right coalition is extremely difficult. The inevitable tension between the two pulls the government in opposite directions.

The silver lining, however, is that this has produced a growing class of “floating voters”, people not permanently tied to any party, and that is actually healthy for democracy. It keeps governments accountable. Independent election commissions and civil society organisations have a major role to play in informing these voters objectively.

In more developed democracies, voters receive detailed candidate profiles and well-researched information alongside their ballot papers, including, for example, independent expert analyses of referendum questions like drug legalisation. Sri Lanka is still far from that standard. Here, many people vote the same way as their parents. In other countries, five family members might each vote differently without it being a scandal.

Three key ministries, under the President himself, all in trouble

President Dissanayake currently holds three of the most powerful portfolios himself: Defence, Digital Technology, and Finance. All three are now widely seen as performing poorly. Many commentators say the President has “failed” visibly in all three areas. The justifications offered for these failures have themselves become confused, contradictory, and, at times, just plain pitiable.

The overall picture is one of a government that looks helpless, reduced to making excuses and whining from the podium.

A cautious hope for recovery

There are still nearly three years left in this government’s term. There is time to course-correct, if they act quickly. We sincerely hope the government manages to shed this sense of helplessness and confusion, and finds a way to truly serve the country.

(The writer, a senior Chartered Accountant and professional banker, is Professor at SLIIT, Malabe. The views and opinions expressed in this article are personal.)

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Cricket and the National Interest

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The appointment of former minister Eran Wickremaratne to chair the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee is significant for more than the future of cricket. It signals a possible shift in the culture of governance even as it offers Sri Lankan cricket a fighting possibility to get out of the doldrums of failure. There have been glorious patches for the national cricket team since the epochal 1996 World Cup triumph. But these patches of brightness have been few and far between and virtually non-existent over the past decade. At the centre of this disaster has been the failures of governance within Sri Lanka Cricket which are not unlike the larger failures of governance within the country itself. The appointment of a new reform oriented committee therefore carries significance beyond cricket. It reflects the wider challenge facing the country which is to restore trust in public institutions for better management.

The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne brings a professional administrator with a proven track record into the cricket arena. He has several strengths that many of his immediate predecessors lacked. Before the ascent of the present government leadership to positions of power, Eran Wickremaratne was among the handful of government ministers who did not have allegations of corruption attached to their names. His reputation for financial professionalism and integrity has remained intact over many years in public life. With him in the Cricket Transformation Committee are also respected former cricketers Kumar Sangakkara, Roshan Mahanama and Sidath Wettimuny together with professionals from legal and business backgrounds. They have been tasked with introducing structural reforms and improving transparency and accountability within cricket administration.

A second reason for this appointment to be significant is that this is possibly the first occasion on which the NPP government has reached out to someone associated with the opposition to obtain assistance in an area of national importance. The commitment to bipartisanship has been a constant demand from politically non-partisan civic groups and political analysts. They have voiced the opinion that the government needs to be more inclusive in its choice of appointments to decision making authorities. The NPP government’s practice so far has largely been to limit appointments to those within the ruling party or those considered loyalists even at the cost of proven expertise. The government’s decision in this case therefore marks a potentially important departure.

National Interest

There are areas of public life where national interest should transcend party divisions and cricket, beloved of the people, is one of them. Sri Lanka cannot afford to continue treating every institution as an arena for political competition when institutions themselves are in crisis and public confidence has become fragile. It is therefore unfortunate that when the government has moved positively in the direction of drawing on expertise from outside its own ranks there should be a negative response from sections of the opposition. This is indicative of the absence of a culture of bipartisanship even on issues that concern the national interest. The SJB, of which the newly appointed cricket committee chairman was a member objected on the grounds that politicians should not hold positions in sports administration and asked him to resign from the party. There is a need to recognise the distinction between partisan political control and the temporary use of experienced administrators to carry out reform and institutional restructuring. In other countries those in politics often join academia and civil society on a temporary basis and vice versa.

More disturbing has been the insidious campaign carried out against the new cricket committee and its chairman on the grounds of religious affiliation. This is an unacceptable denial of the reality that Sri Lanka is a plural, multi ethnic and multi religious society. The interim committee reflects this diversity to a reasonable extent. The country’s long history of ethnic conflict should have taught all political actors the dangers of mobilising communal prejudice for short term political gain. Sri Lanka paid a very heavy price for decades of mistrust and division. It would be tragic if even cricket administration became another arena for communal suspicion and hostility. The present government represents an important departure from the sectarian rhetoric that was employed by previous governments. They have repeatedly pledged to protect the equal rights of all citizens and not permit discrimination or extremism in any form.

The recent international peace march in Sri Lanka led by the Venerable Bhikkhu Thich Paññākāra from Vietnam with its message of loving kindness and mindfulness to all resonated strongly with the masses of people as seen by the crowds who thronged the roadsides to obtain blessings and show respect. This message stands in contrast to the sectarian resentment manifested by those who seek to use the cricket appointments as a weapon to attack the government at the present time. The challenges before the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee parallel the larger challenges before the government in developing the national economy and respecting ethnic and religious diversity. Plugging the leaks and restoring systems will take time and effort. It cannot be done overnight and it cannot succeed without public patience and support.

New Recognition

There is also a need for realism. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee does not guarantee success. Reforming deeply flawed institutions is always difficult. Besides, Sri Lanka is a small country with a relatively small population compared to many other cricket playing nations. It is also a country still recovering from the economic breakdown of 2022 which pushed the majority of people into hardship and severely weakened public institutions. The country continues to face unprecedented challenges including the damage caused by Cyclone Ditwah and the wider global economic uncertainties linked to conflict in the Middle East. Under these difficult circumstances Sri Lanka has fewer resources than many larger countries to devote to both cricket and economic development.

When resources are scarce they cannot be wasted through corruption or incompetence. Drawing upon the strengths of all those who are competent for the tasks at hand regardless of party affiliation or ethnic or religious identity is necessary if improvement is to come sooner rather than later. The burden of rebuilding the country cannot rest only on the government. The crisis facing the country is too deep for any single party or government to solve alone. National recovery requires capable individuals from across society and from different sectors such as business and civil society to work together in areas where the national interest transcends party politics. There is also a responsibility on opposition political parties to support initiatives that are politically neutral and genuinely in the national interest. Not every issue needs to become a partisan battle.

Sri Lanka cricket occupies a special place in the national consciousness. At its best it once united the country and gave Sri Lankans a sense of pride and international recognition. Restoring integrity and professionalism to cricket administration can therefore become part of the larger task of national renewal. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee, while it does not guarantee success, is a sign that the political leadership and people of the country may be beginning to mature in their approach to governance. In recognising the need for competence, integrity and bipartisan cooperation and extending it beyond cricket into other areas of national life, Sri Lanka may find the way towards more stable and successful governance..

by Jehan Perera

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From Dhaka to Sri Lanka, three wheels that drive our economies

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Court vacation this year came with an unexpected lesson, not from a courtroom but from the streets of Dhaka — a city that moves, quite literally, on three wheels.

Above the traffic, a modern metro line glides past concrete pillars and crowded rooftops. It is efficient, clean and frequently cited as a symbol of progress in Bangladesh. For a visitor from Sri Lanka, it inevitably brings to mind our own abandoned light rail plans — a project debated, politicised and ultimately set aside.

But Dhaka’s real story is not in the air. It is on the ground.

Beneath the elevated tracks, the streets belong to three-wheelers. Known locally as CNGs, they cluster at junctions, line the edges of markets and pour into narrow roads that larger vehicles avoid. Even with a functioning rail system, these three-wheelers remain the city’s most dependable form of everyday transport.

Within hours of arriving, their importance becomes obvious. The train may take you across the city, but the journey does not end there. The last mile — often the most complicated part — belongs entirely to the three-wheeler. It is the vehicle that gets you home, to a meeting or simply through streets that no bus route properly serves.

There is a rhythm to using them. A destination is mentioned, a price is suggested and a brief negotiation follows. Then the ride begins, edging into traffic that feels permanently compressed. Drivers move with instinct, adjusting routes and squeezing through gaps with a confidence built over years.

It is not polished. But it works.

And that is where the comparison with Sri Lanka becomes less about what we lack and more about what we already have.

Back home, the three-wheeler has long been part of daily life — so familiar that it is often discussed only in terms of its problems. There are frequent complaints about fares, refusals or the absence of meters. More recently, the industry itself has become entangled in politics — from fuel subsidies to regulatory debates, from election-time promises to periodic crackdowns.

In that process, the conversation has shifted. The three-wheeler is often treated as a problem to be managed, rather than a service to be strengthened.

Yet, seen through the experience of Dhaka, Sri Lanka’s system begins to look far more settled — and, in many ways, ahead.

There is a growing structure in place. Meters, while not perfect, are widely recognised. Ride-hailing apps have added transparency and reduced uncertainty for passengers. There are clearer expectations on both sides — driver and commuter alike. Even small details, such as designated parking areas in parts of Colombo or the increasing standard of vehicles, point to an industry slowly moving towards professionalism.

Just as importantly, there is a human element that remains intact.

In Sri Lanka, a three-wheeler ride is rarely just a transaction. Drivers talk. They offer directions, comment on the day’s news, or share local knowledge. The ride becomes part of the social fabric, not just a means of getting from one point to another.

In Dhaka, the scale of the city leaves less room for that. The interaction is quicker, more direct, shaped by urgency. The service is essential, but it is under constant pressure.

What stands out, across both countries, is that the three-wheeler is not a temporary or outdated mode of transport. It is a necessity in dense, fast-growing Asian cities — one that fills gaps no rail or bus system can fully address.

Large infrastructure projects, like light rail, are important. They bring efficiency and long-term capacity. But they cannot replace the flexibility of a three-wheeler. They cannot reach into narrow streets, respond instantly to demand or provide that crucial last-mile connection.

That is why, even in a city that has invested heavily in modern rail, Dhaka still runs on three wheels.

For Sri Lanka, the lesson is not simply about what could have been built, but about what should be better managed and valued.

The three-wheeler industry does not need to be politicised at every turn. It needs steady regulation — clear fare systems, proper licensing, safety standards — alongside encouragement and recognition. It needs to be seen as part of the solution to urban transport, not as a side issue.

Because for thousands of drivers, it is a livelihood. And for millions of passengers, it is the most immediate and reliable form of mobility.

The tuk-tuk may not feature in grand policy speeches or infrastructure blueprints. It does not run on elevated tracks or attract international attention. But on the ground, where daily life unfolds, it continues to do what larger systems often struggle to do — show up, adapt and keep moving.

And after watching Dhaka’s streets — crowded, relentless, yet functioning — that small, three-wheeled vehicle feels less like something to argue over and more like something to get right.

(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law with over a decade of experience specialising in civil law, a former Board Member of the Office of Missing Persons and a former Legal Director of the Central Cultural Fund. He holds an LLM in International Business Law)

 

by Sampath Perera recently in Dhaka, Bangladesh 

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