Connect with us

Features

Exploring the Canvas and Life of Gamini Ratnavira

Published

on

Gamini Ratnavira

Among the many Sri Lankan artists who carried the spirit of the island into the wider world, Gamini Ratnavira occupies a singular place. A master wildlife artist whose career now spans more than half a century, he has painted, sketched, sculpted and preserved nature through every possible medium—oil, acrylic, gouache, watercolour, and bronze. His works are both art and testament, capturing the sacred symmetry of life as seen through the eyes of one who has never ceased to marvel at it.

From the outset, Ratnavira’s art was not simply about animals or landscapes; it was about relationship—the living bond between species, and between man and the world he inhabits. Each brushstroke reveals a Buddhist reverence for coexistence rather than conquest. His canvases shimmer with birds, beasts, and flora arranged in subtle harmony, as though the artist had momentarily lifted the veil on a universe at peace with itself.

The earliest artists who painted the fauna of Sri Lanka were Cornelius de Bevere born in Ceylon during the Dutch period and was well known for his work on the natural history of the country under the patronage of the famed naturalist Dutch Governor Gideon Loten. A century and a half later, others such as Dutch Johannes Gerardus Keulemans (who illustrated birds in the seminal work on Birds of Ceylon by Australian Col. Vincent Legge, Anglo-French Hippolyte Silvaf, Brits such G. M. Henry, W. W. A. Philips and local born Frederick Kelaart and Cicely Gwynne Lushington, have contributed in their own way in painting and documenting on the avifauna of Sri Lanka. The Irish Andrew Nicholl, who was the illustrator for the works of Sir James Emerson Tennent is another brilliant artist whose works on the natural history of Ceylon are of important study. Almost all of these individuals depict their avifauna in a more westernized, colonial style. In such a milieu, what Ratnavira offers today, in his own unique style of appeasing nature as it is and the co-existence between man, is both refreshing and worthwhile. It this feature, that I want to stress on, most profoundly.

Early Life and Awakening to Nature

Born in the lush tropics of Sri Lanka, Ratnavira’s earliest teachers were not academics or art master’s but the rainforest itself. He was a boy who observed rather than spoke—sketching the play of light on leaves, tracing the curve of an elephant’s ear, and watching the glisten of raindrops held in the heart of a lotus. His father, Sardha Ratnavira, was a jeweller by profession—a calling deeply embedded in their family name, which translates to “Hero of Gems.” Yet it was clear that Gamini’s gems would not be stones, but moments of life immortalised in paint.

As a child, he raised a baby elephant named Maya and shared his home with a leopard and a macaw. These encounters were not mere novelty; they shaped his soul. The Buddhist philosophy that infused his upbringing taught him that to live was to revere all sentient beings. “Nature became my teacher,” he would later write, “and the forest my classroom.” His artistry, then, was an act of faith—a continuation of that early harmony between man and animal, spirit and soil.

By the age of nineteen, he had already decided that art would be his life’s path. Self-taught and undeterred, he began painting the wildlife he so loved, turning his devotion into discipline. Half a century later, when I inquired Gamini, he humbly replied: “I am still learning”.

Recognition in Sri Lanka

Ratnavira’s ascent as a professional artist came at a time when Sri Lanka was discovering a new cultural identity after independence. His first major exhibition in 1979 drew the attention of President J. R. Jayewardene, who not only attended the opening but personally blessed it. Over 150 paintings were sold—an astonishing achievement for a debutant.

Jayewardene, himself a man of refined aesthetic sensibilities, saw in Ratnavira the embodiment of a new Sri Lankan artistry rooted in tradition yet expansive in its vision. He became a patron and a friend, appointing Ratnavira as Chief Advisor on Wildlife and Conservation for the Department of Wildlife. The artist went on to design the department’s official logo, still in use today.

During this period, Ratnavira also collaborated with Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, on the celebrated Let Them Live elephant-conservation campaign under the auspices of the World Wildlife Fund. For Sri Lanka’s Philatelic Bureau, he designed thirty-eight postage stamps, including the iconic series of sea-mammal stamps that inaugurated the country’s marine-conservation programme in the Indian Ocean. These were not mere postage tokens; they were national emblems of compassion and ecological awareness.

His connection with the Smithsonian Institution and the Natural History Museum of Sri Lanka as a field technician further deepened his understanding of the country’s flora and fauna. This experience translated into a series of field guides and illustrated volumes—Birds of Sri Lanka, Mammals of Sri Lanka, and later Brushes with Nature, his autobiography. Each work intertwined science with sentiment, detail with devotion.

Over the years, Gamini Ratnavira has not only painted the beauty of the natural world but also documented it in a remarkable body of illustrated books that stand as milestones in Sri Lankan wildlife art. Among his most acclaimed works is A Field Companion to the Mammals of Sri Lanka by Asoka Yapa and Ratnavira — a vital reference that combines scientific accuracy with the warmth of field artistry. Together with his wife, Lisa, he produced Hummingbirds: A Celebration of Their Beauty Through Art, a breathtaking volume that portrays all 365 known species of hummingbirds. Recently, Ratnavira completed the detailed illustrations for the upcoming publication “Fresh Water Fish of Sri Lanka,” in collaboration with the Wildlife

Conservation Society of Galle, furthering his lifelong mission to preserve the island’s natural heritage through art. At present, he is embarking on a revised edition of “Birds of Sri Lanka” with Dr. Sarath Kotagama, a project that will mark the 50th Anniversary of the Field Ornithology Group of Sri Lanka — a fitting tribute to five decades of dedication to avian study and artistic excellence.

War and Departure

The civil conflict that engulfed Sri Lanka in the early 1980s forced many artists and intellectuals to seek safety abroad. Ratnavira was invited by both the American and Australian ambassadors to continue his work overseas. Choosing the United States, he left his homeland in 1986, not as an exile but as an emissary of its natural beauty.

Before leaving, he completed one of his most monumental commissions—a nine-foot mural of ring-neck parakeets for the Bandaranaike International Airport, valued at a price much higher than the total sum of money Ratnavira “earned in his art career”. He also painted more than 150 canvases for Habarana Lodge (now Cinnamon Lodge), works that remain significant components of Sri Lanka’s modern-art collections and are now on display at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Sri Lanka.

A New Chapter in America

Settling in California, Ratnavira opened the Hidden Forest Art Gallery and began exhibiting at premier wildlife-art shows—the Pacific Rim Art Expo in Seattle, Easton’s Waterfowl Festival in Maryland, Charleston’s Southeastern Wildlife Expo, and the famed Leigh Yawkey Woodson Art Museum’s Birds in Art exhibition. His works found their way to the grand stages of Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams auctions.

His reputation grew rapidly. Collectors included museums, ornithologists, and statesmen. The San Diego Natural History Museum commissioned forty-three paintings depicting the endangered species of its region. The Rare Bird Club of the United Kingdom and the late Dr. James Clements, author of Checklist of the Birds of the World, became among his foremost patrons.

In 2005, his life-size bronze sculpture Jewel of the Emerald Forest—a hyacinth macaw rendered with exquisite precision—was installed in the National Geographic Society’s Sculpture Garden in Washington D.C. The same year, he was honoured as the Sri Lankan American of the Year by the Sri Lankan Consulate in Los Angeles for his artistic achievements and contributions to conservation.

Faith, Philosophy, and Technique

Though geographically distant from his birthplace, Ratnavira never severed the spiritual tether that bound him to it. His Buddhist heritage continued to inform his world-view. He often said that painting was a form of meditation, a way of honouring the cycles of life and death. His canvases teem with symbiosis—flowers blooming beside butterflies that pollinate them, predators shown not as killers but as participants in nature’s balance.

Technically, his method is meticulous. Beginning with sketches from his field journals and photographs, he paints directly with his brushes, working from dark to light, layer upon translucent layer. Sun-edged leaves, insect bites on petals, or the litter of the forest floor—all appear rendered with uncanny realism yet imbued with poetic tenderness. His compositions are never mere studies of wildlife; they are windows into living ecosystems, microcosms of harmony that echo the Buddhist doctrine of interdependence.

When asked what keeps him painting after so many decades, he replies with simplicity: “Gratitude.” For Ratnavira, art is thanksgiving—to the earth, to the animals, to life itself.

The Partnership of Life and Art

In the United States, fate introduced him to Lisa Ratnavira, a volunteer working on an elephant-conservation project. Their shared love for animals blossomed into a partnership of both life and art. Lisa became his Gallery Director, poetic collaborator, and muse. Together they produced books such as Travelling with Pen and Brush and Grief’s Labyrinth and Other Poems, where her verses find visual echo in his illustrations.

For over twenty-five years, the couple have travelled, exhibited, and taught together, balancing professional success with a profound commitment to conservation. Their union, grounded in compassion, has become emblematic of the life they champion through art—the unity between human affection and the natural world.

Conservation and the Natalie Ratnavira Education Center

Tragedy entered the Ratnavira family with the loss of their daughter Natalie Ann Ratnavira in 2012 to a sudden brain aneurysm. A promising wildlife-conservation student at the University of Nevada, Reno, Natalie embodied her father’s ethos of loving nature deeply. To honour her memory, the family established the Natalie Ratnavira Education and Nature Center in Galle, Sri Lanka, built in partnership with the Wildlife Conservation Society of Galle.

The centre serves as a sanctuary for artists, scientists, and naturalists—providing a space to study, create, and protect Sri Lanka’s unique ecosystems. Each of Ratnavira’s paintings now bears a small dragonfly near his signature, a delicate symbol of Natalie’s spirit. The recently discovered freshwater fish Devario sp. nataliei was named in her honour, immortalising her love for wildlife in scientific taxonomy as well as memory.

Global Advocacy and Exhibitions

Ratnavira’s art has long been inseparable from activism. Through exhibitions such as Vanishing Wildlife of Texas, collaborations with the Hummingbird Society, Parrots International, Tapirs of the World, and fundraising efforts for disaster-relief causes, he has channelled art into tangible good. His 42-foot African mural at Safari West, California, remains one of the largest privately commissioned wildlife paintings in America, a panorama of biodiversity and balance.

In 1993 he founded the Reflections of Nature Wildlife Art Show in Fallbrook, California—a platform that ran for nearly three decades, nurturing young artists and promoting conservation through creativity. His works continue to feature in international exhibitions curated by institutions such as David J. Wagner, L.L.C. Notably, the 2021 travelling exhibition Animal Groups showcased his depictions of Indian-Ocean fauna, reaffirming his relevance in the global wildlife-art community even after fifty years of painting.

Legacy and Influence

Today, Ratnavira’s paintings hang in museums, universities, and private collections across continents. Yet his true legacy lies not merely in the art itself but in the attitude, it embodies: the belief that beauty is inseparable from responsibility. In Sri Lanka, where deforestation and species loss continue to threaten biodiversity, Ratnavira’s name evokes both nostalgia and challenge—a reminder of what the island once was and what it might yet preserve. His early field guides remain reference works for students and researchers; his stamps and logos endure as visual symbols of national pride.

For the diaspora, he is a bridge between past and present, homeland and adopted land. To the global art community, he stands as proof that talent, guided by sincerity and service, transcends geography.

When honoured as Sri Lankan American of the Year, he remarked, “A road is not built for one to travel upon.” That phrase encapsulates his life philosophy. Every painting, every conservation project, every teaching effort is an invitation for others to walk beside him—to see the world not as resource, but as kin.

Conclusion: The Eternal Flight

In tracing the life of Gamini Ratnavira, one follows the flight of a bird—rising from the green canopy of Sri Lanka, crossing oceans, and circling the world, yet always returning to the same inner forest of wonder. His career stands at the confluence of art, faith, and environmental consciousness. Few have so deftly united these domains, fewer still have done so with such humility.

Through his eyes, we are reminded that beauty and duty are inseparable; that to paint a creature is to acknowledge its right to exist. His canvases are not merely portraits of wildlife—they are acts of preservation, safeguarding in colour what the world risks losing in reality.

Half a century after his first exhibition blessed by President Jayewardene, Ratnavira continues to create with the same quiet reverence that guided his nineteen-year-old self beneath the forest canopy. The boy who once watched raindrops gather on an elephant-ear leaf has grown into an artist who gathers worlds upon his canvas.

As he himself says, “I approach each painting with gratitude for the life I have been allowed to live.” That gratitude, luminous and enduring, is his truest masterpiece.

By Avishka Mario Senewiratne ✍️



Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Features

Sri Lanka’s new govt.: Early promise, growing concerns

Published

on

President Anura Kumara Dissanayake’s demeanour, body language, and speaking style appear to have changed noticeably in recent weeks, a visible sign of embarrassment. The most likely reason is a stark contradiction between what he once publicly criticised and analysed so forcefully, and what his government is actually doing today. His own recent speeches seem to reflect that contradiction, sometimes coming across as confused and inconsistent. This is becoming widely known, not just through social media, YouTube, and television discussions, but also through speeches on the floor of Parliament itself.

Doing exactly what the previous government did

What is now becoming clear is that instead of doing things the way the President promised, his government is simply carrying on with what the previous administration, particularly Ranil Wickremesinghe’s government, was already doing. Critically, some of the most senior positions in the state, positions that demand the most experienced and capable officers, are being filled by people who are loyal to the JVP/NPP party but lack the relevant qualifications and track record.

Such politically motivated appointments have already taken place across various government ministries, some state corporations, the Central Bank, the Treasury, and at multiple levels of the public service. There have also been forced resignations, bans on resignations, and transfers of officials.

What makes this particularly serious is that President Dissanayake has had to come to Parliament repeatedly to defend and “clean up” the reputations of officials he himself appointed. This looks, at times, like a painful and almost theatrical exercise.

The coal procurement scandal, and a laughable inquiry

The controversy around the country’s coal power supply has now clearly exposed a massive disaster: shady tenders, damage to the Norochcholai power plant, rising electricity bills due to increased diesel use to compensate, a shortage of diesel, higher diesel prices, and serious environmental damage. This is a wide and well-documented catastrophe.

Yet, when a commission was appointed to investigate, the government announced it would look into events going back to 2009, which many have called an absurd joke, clearly designed to deflect blame rather than find answers.

The Treasury scandal, 10 suspicious transactions

At the Treasury, what was initially presented as a single transaction, is alleged to involve 10 transactions, and it is plainly a case of fraud. A genuine mistake might happen once or twice. As one commentator said sarcastically, “If a mistake can happen 10 times, it must be a very talented hand.” These explanations are being treated as pure comedy.

Attempts to justify all of this have sometimes turned threatening. A speech made on May 1st by Tilvin Silva is a case in point, crude and menacing in tone.

Is the government losing its grip?

Former Minister Patali Champika has said the government is now suffering from a phobia of loss of power, meaning it is struggling to govern effectively. Other commentators have noted that the NPP/JVP may have taken on a burden too heavy to carry. Political cartoons have depicted the NPP’s crown loaded with coal, financial irregularities, and political appointments, bending under the weight.

The problem with appointing loyalists over qualified professionals

Appointing own supporters to senior positions is not itself unusual in politics. But it becomes a betrayal of public trust when those appointed lack the basic qualifications or relevant experience for the roles they are given.

A clear example is the appointment of the Treasury Secretary, someone who was visible at virtually every NPP election campaign event, but whose qualifications and exposure/experiences may not match the demands of such a critical position. Even if someone has a doctorate or professorship, the key question is whether those qualifications are relevant to the role, and whether that person has the experience/exposure to lead a team of seasoned professionals.

By contrast, even someone without formal academic credentials can succeed if they have the right skills and surround themselves with advisors with relevant exposure. The real failure is when loyalty to a political party overrides all other considerations, that is a fundamental betrayal of responsibility.

The problem is not unique to this government. In 2015, the appointment of Arjuna Mahendran as Central Bank Governor was a similar blunder. His tenure ended in scandal involving insider dealing and bond market manipulation. However, in that case, the funds involved were frozen and later confiscated by the following government, however legally questionable that process was.

The current Treasury losses, by contrast, may be unrecoverable. Critics say getting that money back would be next to impossible.

The broader damage: Demoralisation of capable officials

When loyalists are placed above competent career officials in key positions, it demoralises the best public servants. Some begin to comply in fear; others lose motivation entirely. The professional hierarchy breaks down. Junior officials start looking over their shoulders instead of doing their jobs. This collective dysfunction is ultimately what destroys governments.

Sri Lanka’s pattern: every government falls

This pattern is deeply familiar in Sri Lankan history. The SWRD Bandaranaike government, which swept to power in 1956 on a wave of popular support, had declined badly by 1959. The coalition government, which came to power reducing the opposition to eight seats, lost in 1977, and, in turn, the UNP, which came in on a landslide, in 1977, crushing the SLFP to just eight seats, suffered a similar fate by 1994.

Mahinda Rajapaksa came to power in 2005 by the narrowest of margins, in part because the LTTE manipulated the Northern vote against Ranil Wickremesinghe. But he was re-elected in 2010 on the strength of ending the war against the LTTE. Still, by 2015, he was voted out, because the benefits of winning the war were never truly delivered to ordinary people, and because large-scale corruption had taken root in the meantime. Gotabaya Rajapaksa didn’t even last long enough to see his term end.

Now, this government, too, is showing early signs of the same decline.

The ideological contradiction at the heart of the NPP

There is another challenge: though the JVP presents itself as a left-wing, Marxist-socialist party, many of those who joined the broader NPP coalition, businesspeople, academics, professionals, do not hold such ideological views. Balancing a left-leaning party with a centre-right coalition is extremely difficult. The inevitable tension between the two pulls the government in opposite directions.

The silver lining, however, is that this has produced a growing class of “floating voters”, people not permanently tied to any party, and that is actually healthy for democracy. It keeps governments accountable. Independent election commissions and civil society organisations have a major role to play in informing these voters objectively.

In more developed democracies, voters receive detailed candidate profiles and well-researched information alongside their ballot papers, including, for example, independent expert analyses of referendum questions like drug legalisation. Sri Lanka is still far from that standard. Here, many people vote the same way as their parents. In other countries, five family members might each vote differently without it being a scandal.

Three key ministries, under the President himself, all in trouble

President Dissanayake currently holds three of the most powerful portfolios himself: Defence, Digital Technology, and Finance. All three are now widely seen as performing poorly. Many commentators say the President has “failed” visibly in all three areas. The justifications offered for these failures have themselves become confused, contradictory, and, at times, just plain pitiable.

The overall picture is one of a government that looks helpless, reduced to making excuses and whining from the podium.

A cautious hope for recovery

There are still nearly three years left in this government’s term. There is time to course-correct, if they act quickly. We sincerely hope the government manages to shed this sense of helplessness and confusion, and finds a way to truly serve the country.

(The writer, a senior Chartered Accountant and professional banker, is Professor at SLIIT, Malabe. The views and opinions expressed in this article are personal.)

Continue Reading

Features

Cricket and the National Interest

Published

on

The appointment of former minister Eran Wickremaratne to chair the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee is significant for more than the future of cricket. It signals a possible shift in the culture of governance even as it offers Sri Lankan cricket a fighting possibility to get out of the doldrums of failure. There have been glorious patches for the national cricket team since the epochal 1996 World Cup triumph. But these patches of brightness have been few and far between and virtually non-existent over the past decade. At the centre of this disaster has been the failures of governance within Sri Lanka Cricket which are not unlike the larger failures of governance within the country itself. The appointment of a new reform oriented committee therefore carries significance beyond cricket. It reflects the wider challenge facing the country which is to restore trust in public institutions for better management.

The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne brings a professional administrator with a proven track record into the cricket arena. He has several strengths that many of his immediate predecessors lacked. Before the ascent of the present government leadership to positions of power, Eran Wickremaratne was among the handful of government ministers who did not have allegations of corruption attached to their names. His reputation for financial professionalism and integrity has remained intact over many years in public life. With him in the Cricket Transformation Committee are also respected former cricketers Kumar Sangakkara, Roshan Mahanama and Sidath Wettimuny together with professionals from legal and business backgrounds. They have been tasked with introducing structural reforms and improving transparency and accountability within cricket administration.

A second reason for this appointment to be significant is that this is possibly the first occasion on which the NPP government has reached out to someone associated with the opposition to obtain assistance in an area of national importance. The commitment to bipartisanship has been a constant demand from politically non-partisan civic groups and political analysts. They have voiced the opinion that the government needs to be more inclusive in its choice of appointments to decision making authorities. The NPP government’s practice so far has largely been to limit appointments to those within the ruling party or those considered loyalists even at the cost of proven expertise. The government’s decision in this case therefore marks a potentially important departure.

National Interest

There are areas of public life where national interest should transcend party divisions and cricket, beloved of the people, is one of them. Sri Lanka cannot afford to continue treating every institution as an arena for political competition when institutions themselves are in crisis and public confidence has become fragile. It is therefore unfortunate that when the government has moved positively in the direction of drawing on expertise from outside its own ranks there should be a negative response from sections of the opposition. This is indicative of the absence of a culture of bipartisanship even on issues that concern the national interest. The SJB, of which the newly appointed cricket committee chairman was a member objected on the grounds that politicians should not hold positions in sports administration and asked him to resign from the party. There is a need to recognise the distinction between partisan political control and the temporary use of experienced administrators to carry out reform and institutional restructuring. In other countries those in politics often join academia and civil society on a temporary basis and vice versa.

More disturbing has been the insidious campaign carried out against the new cricket committee and its chairman on the grounds of religious affiliation. This is an unacceptable denial of the reality that Sri Lanka is a plural, multi ethnic and multi religious society. The interim committee reflects this diversity to a reasonable extent. The country’s long history of ethnic conflict should have taught all political actors the dangers of mobilising communal prejudice for short term political gain. Sri Lanka paid a very heavy price for decades of mistrust and division. It would be tragic if even cricket administration became another arena for communal suspicion and hostility. The present government represents an important departure from the sectarian rhetoric that was employed by previous governments. They have repeatedly pledged to protect the equal rights of all citizens and not permit discrimination or extremism in any form.

The recent international peace march in Sri Lanka led by the Venerable Bhikkhu Thich Paññākāra from Vietnam with its message of loving kindness and mindfulness to all resonated strongly with the masses of people as seen by the crowds who thronged the roadsides to obtain blessings and show respect. This message stands in contrast to the sectarian resentment manifested by those who seek to use the cricket appointments as a weapon to attack the government at the present time. The challenges before the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee parallel the larger challenges before the government in developing the national economy and respecting ethnic and religious diversity. Plugging the leaks and restoring systems will take time and effort. It cannot be done overnight and it cannot succeed without public patience and support.

New Recognition

There is also a need for realism. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee does not guarantee success. Reforming deeply flawed institutions is always difficult. Besides, Sri Lanka is a small country with a relatively small population compared to many other cricket playing nations. It is also a country still recovering from the economic breakdown of 2022 which pushed the majority of people into hardship and severely weakened public institutions. The country continues to face unprecedented challenges including the damage caused by Cyclone Ditwah and the wider global economic uncertainties linked to conflict in the Middle East. Under these difficult circumstances Sri Lanka has fewer resources than many larger countries to devote to both cricket and economic development.

When resources are scarce they cannot be wasted through corruption or incompetence. Drawing upon the strengths of all those who are competent for the tasks at hand regardless of party affiliation or ethnic or religious identity is necessary if improvement is to come sooner rather than later. The burden of rebuilding the country cannot rest only on the government. The crisis facing the country is too deep for any single party or government to solve alone. National recovery requires capable individuals from across society and from different sectors such as business and civil society to work together in areas where the national interest transcends party politics. There is also a responsibility on opposition political parties to support initiatives that are politically neutral and genuinely in the national interest. Not every issue needs to become a partisan battle.

Sri Lanka cricket occupies a special place in the national consciousness. At its best it once united the country and gave Sri Lankans a sense of pride and international recognition. Restoring integrity and professionalism to cricket administration can therefore become part of the larger task of national renewal. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee, while it does not guarantee success, is a sign that the political leadership and people of the country may be beginning to mature in their approach to governance. In recognising the need for competence, integrity and bipartisan cooperation and extending it beyond cricket into other areas of national life, Sri Lanka may find the way towards more stable and successful governance..

by Jehan Perera

Continue Reading

Features

From Dhaka to Sri Lanka, three wheels that drive our economies

Published

on

Court vacation this year came with an unexpected lesson, not from a courtroom but from the streets of Dhaka — a city that moves, quite literally, on three wheels.

Above the traffic, a modern metro line glides past concrete pillars and crowded rooftops. It is efficient, clean and frequently cited as a symbol of progress in Bangladesh. For a visitor from Sri Lanka, it inevitably brings to mind our own abandoned light rail plans — a project debated, politicised and ultimately set aside.

But Dhaka’s real story is not in the air. It is on the ground.

Beneath the elevated tracks, the streets belong to three-wheelers. Known locally as CNGs, they cluster at junctions, line the edges of markets and pour into narrow roads that larger vehicles avoid. Even with a functioning rail system, these three-wheelers remain the city’s most dependable form of everyday transport.

Within hours of arriving, their importance becomes obvious. The train may take you across the city, but the journey does not end there. The last mile — often the most complicated part — belongs entirely to the three-wheeler. It is the vehicle that gets you home, to a meeting or simply through streets that no bus route properly serves.

There is a rhythm to using them. A destination is mentioned, a price is suggested and a brief negotiation follows. Then the ride begins, edging into traffic that feels permanently compressed. Drivers move with instinct, adjusting routes and squeezing through gaps with a confidence built over years.

It is not polished. But it works.

And that is where the comparison with Sri Lanka becomes less about what we lack and more about what we already have.

Back home, the three-wheeler has long been part of daily life — so familiar that it is often discussed only in terms of its problems. There are frequent complaints about fares, refusals or the absence of meters. More recently, the industry itself has become entangled in politics — from fuel subsidies to regulatory debates, from election-time promises to periodic crackdowns.

In that process, the conversation has shifted. The three-wheeler is often treated as a problem to be managed, rather than a service to be strengthened.

Yet, seen through the experience of Dhaka, Sri Lanka’s system begins to look far more settled — and, in many ways, ahead.

There is a growing structure in place. Meters, while not perfect, are widely recognised. Ride-hailing apps have added transparency and reduced uncertainty for passengers. There are clearer expectations on both sides — driver and commuter alike. Even small details, such as designated parking areas in parts of Colombo or the increasing standard of vehicles, point to an industry slowly moving towards professionalism.

Just as importantly, there is a human element that remains intact.

In Sri Lanka, a three-wheeler ride is rarely just a transaction. Drivers talk. They offer directions, comment on the day’s news, or share local knowledge. The ride becomes part of the social fabric, not just a means of getting from one point to another.

In Dhaka, the scale of the city leaves less room for that. The interaction is quicker, more direct, shaped by urgency. The service is essential, but it is under constant pressure.

What stands out, across both countries, is that the three-wheeler is not a temporary or outdated mode of transport. It is a necessity in dense, fast-growing Asian cities — one that fills gaps no rail or bus system can fully address.

Large infrastructure projects, like light rail, are important. They bring efficiency and long-term capacity. But they cannot replace the flexibility of a three-wheeler. They cannot reach into narrow streets, respond instantly to demand or provide that crucial last-mile connection.

That is why, even in a city that has invested heavily in modern rail, Dhaka still runs on three wheels.

For Sri Lanka, the lesson is not simply about what could have been built, but about what should be better managed and valued.

The three-wheeler industry does not need to be politicised at every turn. It needs steady regulation — clear fare systems, proper licensing, safety standards — alongside encouragement and recognition. It needs to be seen as part of the solution to urban transport, not as a side issue.

Because for thousands of drivers, it is a livelihood. And for millions of passengers, it is the most immediate and reliable form of mobility.

The tuk-tuk may not feature in grand policy speeches or infrastructure blueprints. It does not run on elevated tracks or attract international attention. But on the ground, where daily life unfolds, it continues to do what larger systems often struggle to do — show up, adapt and keep moving.

And after watching Dhaka’s streets — crowded, relentless, yet functioning — that small, three-wheeled vehicle feels less like something to argue over and more like something to get right.

(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law with over a decade of experience specialising in civil law, a former Board Member of the Office of Missing Persons and a former Legal Director of the Central Cultural Fund. He holds an LLM in International Business Law)

 

by Sampath Perera recently in Dhaka, Bangladesh 

Continue Reading

Trending