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Discovering the New World: AMAZING AMAZON

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Kaieteur Falls, Guyana

Part 34 PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

Discovering the Interior of Guyana

My work in Guyana was centred in the capital city of Georgetown, where I managed the country’s only international and five-star hotel at the time—the Guyana Pegasus. My weekends, however, were often spent travelling for hours into the rainforest to oversee Timberhead, an eco-resort I also managed. While I had visited the awe-inspiring Kaieteur Falls a couple of times and explored a large gold mine near Guyana’s second city, Linden, my appetite to uncover the vastness of this land—the size of the United Kingdom—was insatiable.

For my elder son, Marlon, and me, a visit to the Omai Gold Mine marked our first venture into a mining operation. Established in the 1880s and developed further by Cambior Inc., a Canadian-based international gold producer, just before my arrival, the mine was also one of Guyana Pegasus’ valuable corporate clients. Leveraging this connection, we gained exclusive access to areas of the mine not typically open to the public. It was a fascinating experience.

When I shared my desire to explore the interior of Guyana with Tony Thorne, a member of my management team, he took the initiative. Tony, an Australian with a wealth of knowledge about Guyana’s interior, became an excellent guide for me. Together, we embarked on several trips, including visits to leading eco-resorts like Shanklands and the Gezebo, located along the banks of the Essequibo, Guyana’s largest river.

Rio de Janeiro

One of the highlights of these explorations was travelling by small aircraft to Kwebanna and Mabaruma. From there, we undertook an adventurous boat journey to Shell Beach, a stunning and pristine 75-mile coastline near the Guyana-Venezuela border. By day, we observed the vibrant Scarlet Ibis, and by night, we marvelled at hundreds of turtles laying eggs under the moonlight—an ethereal spectacle.

Two weeks later, another journey took us by air to Lethem, near the Guyana-Brazil border in the deep south. This area, known as Rupununi, revealed a culture distinct from the rest of the country. Over the course of a week, we travelled through remote areas by Jeep, boat, and even horseback, staying overnight in rustic cottages and ranches predominantly owned by Guyanese-Portuguese families.

During evenings spent with the well-to-do residents of Rupununi, I learned of the infamous “Rupununi Uprising,” a deadly secessionist insurrection that occurred soon after Guyana’s independence in the late 1960s. “We led a breakaway and sought to control 22,300 square miles!” Mr. Ferreira, one of my new friends, proudly recounted. He elaborated with humour: “We oversaw what we thought was a new country supported by Venezuela for two days. Then we had a big party to celebrate our victory. All of us were drunk when the Guyana Defence Force attacked and defeated us!” His hearty laughter punctuated the tale as he raised his glass for another toast.

After that experience I wanted to explore the three South American countries surrounding Guyana – Dutch-speaking Suriname, Spanish-speaking Venezuela and Portuguese-Speaking Brazil. I was hungry for more travels!

“The Amazon”

Discovering Suriname (Dutch Guyana)

After expressing my interest in travelling to neighbouring Suriname, my friend Maniram ‘Mani’ Prashad, the only Guyanese member of the hotel’s board, proposed a plan. “Chandi, let’s travel overland by car and ferry. We can break journey in New Amsterdam, where I have friends,” he suggested. Accompanied by Mani’s friend and his wife, and two other friends, we set off, traversing the coastal belt by road and ferry. We reached Suriname after sunset.

The next day, we explored the capital city Paramaribo on foot, admiring its historic inner city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The St. Peter and Paul Cathedral, the largest wooden structure in the Western Hemisphere, stood out as a magnificent highlight. We also visited Fort Zeelandia, a 17th-century stronghold, and strolled along the picturesque waterfront of the Suriname River. A sprawling garden filled with towering royal palms offered a tranquil retreat from the city’s hustle. Paramaribo’s unique blend of Dutch colonial heritage, natural beauty, and cultural diversity left an indelible impression.

Discovering Venezuela

During a transit trip from Georgetown to London and Colombo, I managed to spend a few days in Venezuela, focusing on its capital city, Caracas, and its renowned art galleries. The journey included a quick stop in Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago. Caracas struck me with its stark contrasts—luxury skyscrapers adjoining sprawling slums.

A day-long city tour was followed by a visit to some of the country’s most impressive art galleries. The Museum of Contemporary Art, the National Art Gallery, and other contemporary spaces showcased remarkable collections that further enriched my appreciation for Venezuelan culture.

Discovering Brazil

Guyana’s 285-mile coastline along the Atlantic Ocean contrasts sharply with its extensive 1,000-mile border with Brazil, running through the Amazon rainforest. While Guyana’s borders with Venezuela and Suriname are mired in territorial disputes, its boundary with Brazil remains peaceful and well-defined.

Although I initially planned to visit Brazil in 1995, the preparation for a summit with 16 heads of state staying at the Guyana Pegasus delayed my trip. It wasn’t until 2010 that I had the opportunity to explore Brazil, spending ten days in its vibrant cities of capital Brasília, old capital Rio de Janeiro, and São Paulo (more stories on the 2010 trip will be provided at a later series) I was there to lead a major conference for the Amazon Corporation Treaty Organization (ACTO).

At Omai Gold Mine with my son, Marlon and friends

Collaborating with the Amazon Corporation Treaty Organization

The Amazon Corporation Treaty Organization (ACTO) is an intergovernmental entity focused on the sustainable development and preservation of the Amazon Basin. Established in 1978, ACTO unites eight member countries: Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Guyana, and Suriname.

In 2010, I collaborated with ACTO to organise a regional conference addressing sustainable tourism’s role in protecting the Amazon rainforest. My former University of Guyana colleague, Donald Sinclair, who headed ACTO’s tourism arm, played a pivotal role in recommending me for the assignment.

Post-conference, Donald and I co-authored an outcome paper titled, “Does Sustainable Tourism Offer Solutions for the Protection of the Amazon Rainforest?” We presented this paper at prominent tourism conferences in the United States, and its publication in a major British journal marked a milestone in our academic careers.

My Art on the Amazon

Since 1994, the Amazon has profoundly influenced my work as a visual artist. I produced over 60 abstract paintings on the Amazon, during my time in Guana. In 1995 I held two solo exhibitions titled ‘Volcanic Moods I and II’ at the national gallery of Guyana – Castellani House and Pegasus Gallery. In 2024, I completed a new series of semi abstract paintings themed “The Amazon” and plan to host a solo exhibition dedicated to this subject in 2026. My artist’s statement for this series encapsulates my creative journey inspired by the Amazon:

“My creative process is rooted in layering translucent glazes and employing bold strokes to evoke a sense of both movement and stillness. In ‘The Amazon,’ I invite viewers to experience the rainforest’s majesty through heightened awareness of its ever-changing beauty.

My connection to the Amazon began when I managed an eco-resort in the heart of the rainforest in the mid-1990s. The forest seduced me, its untamed vastness inspiring a series of abstract works that reflect the primal forces at play within this environment. Each piece captures the delicate interplay of light and shadow, evoking emotions and memories that resonate deeply.

As I journeyed through its depths, crossing brown rivers and towering trees, the Amazon unfolded like a symphony of light and colour orchestrated by nature’s hand. These impressions, collected during my travels, are distilled into each painting—a reflection of the awe and reverence I hold for this life-sustaining ecosystem.”

Conclusion

My journey through the Amazon and its neighbouring regions has been an extraordinary blend of discovery, adventure, and creative inspiration. From the scarlet ibis of Shell Beach to the grandeur of Paramaribo’s wooden cathedral, from the contrasts of Caracas to the vibrant energy of Rio de Janeiro, each experience has enriched my understanding of this magnificent part of the world. The Amazon’s untamed beauty continues to inspire my art, serving as a testament to its enduring significance and the pressing need for its preservation.



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Mannar’s silent skies: Migratory Flamingos fall victim to power lines amid Wind Farm dispute

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Victims: Flamingos / Birds found dead in Mannar

By Ifham Nizam

A fresh wave of concern has gripped conservationists following the reported deaths of migratory flamingos within the Vankalai Sanctuary—a globally recognised bird habitat—raising urgent questions about the ecological cost of large-scale renewable energy projects in the region.

The incident comes at a time when a fundamental rights petition, challenging the proposed wind power project, linked to India’s Adani Group, remains under examination before the Supreme Court, with environmental groups warning that the very risks they highlighted are now materialising.

At least two flamingos—believed to be part of the iconic migratory flocks that travel thousands of kilometres to reach Sri Lanka—were found dead after entanglement with high-tension transmission lines running across the sanctuary. Another bird was reportedly struggling for survival.

Professor Sampath Seneviratne, a leading ornithologist, expressed deep concern over the development, noting that such incidents are not isolated but indicative of a broader and predictable threat.

“These migratory birds depend on specific flyways that have remained unchanged for centuries. When high-risk infrastructure, like poorly planned power lines, intersect these routes, collisions become inevitable,” he said. “What we are witnessing now could be just the beginning if proper mitigation measures are not urgently implemented.”

Environmentalists argue that the Mannar region—particularly the Vankalai wetland complex—is one of the most critical stopover sites in South Asia for migratory waterbirds, including flamingos, pelicans, and various species of waders. The sanctuary’s ecological value has also supported a niche with growing eco-tourism sector, drawing birdwatchers from around the world.

Executive Director of the Centre for Environmental Justice, Dilena Pathragoda, said the incident underscores the urgency of judicial intervention and stricter environmental oversight.

“This tragedy is a direct consequence of ignoring scientifically established environmental safeguards. We have already raised these concerns before court, particularly regarding the location of transmission infrastructure within sensitive bird habitats,” Pathragoda said.

“Renewable energy cannot be pursued in isolation from ecological responsibility. If due process and proper environmental impact assessments are bypassed or diluted, then such losses are inevitable.”

Conservation groups have long cautioned that the installation of wind turbines and associated grid infrastructure—especially overhead transmission lines—within or near sensitive habitats could transform these landscapes into lethal zones for avifauna.

An environmental activist involved in the ongoing legal challenge said the latest deaths validate earlier warnings.

“This is exactly what we feared. Development is necessary, but not at the cost of biodiversity. When projects of this scale proceed without adequate ecological assessments and safeguards, the consequences are irreversible,” the activist stressed.

The debate has once again brought into focus the delicate balance between renewable energy expansion and biodiversity conservation. While wind energy is widely promoted as a clean alternative to fossil fuels, experts caution that “green” does not automatically mean “harmless.”

Professor Seneviratne emphasised that solutions do exist, including rerouting transmission lines, installing bird diverters, and conducting comprehensive migratory pathway studies prior to project approval.

“Globally, there are well-established mitigation strategies. The issue here is not the absence of knowledge, but the failure to apply it effectively,” he noted.

The timing of the incident is particularly worrying. Migratory flamingos typically remain in Sri Lanka until late April or May before embarking on their return journeys. Conservationists warn that if hazards remain unaddressed, larger flocks could face similar risks in the coming weeks.

Beyond ecological implications, experts also highlight potential economic fallout. Wildlife tourism—especially birdwatching—contributes significantly to local livelihoods in Mannar.

 Repeated reports of bird deaths could deter eco-conscious travellers and damage the region’s reputation as a safe haven for migratory species.

Environmentalists are now calling for immediate intervention by authorities, including a temporary halt to high-risk operations in sensitive zones, pending a thorough environmental review.

They stress that protecting animal movement corridors—whether elephant migration routes or avian flyways—is a fundamental pillar of modern conservation.

As the controversy unfolds, one question looms large: can Sri Lanka pursue sustainable energy without sacrificing the very natural heritage that defines it?

Pathragoda added that for now, the sight of fallen flamingos in Mannar stands as a stark reminder that development, if not carefully planned, can carry a heavy and irreversible cost.

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‘Weaponizing’ religion in the pursuit of power

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President Donald Trump; miscalculating in M-E / Ayatollah Khomeini; Architect of Iranian Revolution

A picture of US President Donald Trump apparently being prayed for by supporters, appearing in sections of the international media, said it all loud and clear. That is, religion is being flagrantly leveraged or prostituted by politicians single-mindedly bent on furthering their power aspirations.

Although in the case of the US President the trend took on may be an exceptionally graphic or dramatic form, the ‘weaponizing’ of religion is nothing particularly new, nor is it confined to only religiously conservative sections of the West. For example, in South Asia it is an integral part of politics. The ‘South Asian Eight’ are notorious for it and it could be unreservedly stated that in Sri Lanka, the latter’s ethnic conflict would be more amenable to resolution if religion was not made a potent weapon by ambitious politicians of particularly the country’s South.

The more enlightened sections of Christian believers in the US may not have been able to contain their consternation at the sight of the US President apparently being ‘blessed’ by pastors claiming adherence to Christianity. Any human is entitled to be blessed but not if he is leading his country to war without exhausting all the options at his disposal to end the relevant conflict by peaceful means.

More compounded would be his problem if his directives lead to the death of civilians in the hundreds. In the latter case he is stringently accountable for the spilling of civilian blood, that is, the committing of war crimes.

However, the US along with Israel did just that in the recent bombings of Iran, for instance. The majority of the lives lost were those of civilians. If the US President is endowed with a Christian conscience he would have paused to consider that he is guilty of ordering the taking of the life of another human which is forbidden in the teachings of Jesus Christ.

Moreover, the ‘pastors’ praying over the US President should have thought on the above lines as well. May be they were in an effort to curry the President’s favour which is as blame-worthy as legitimizing in some form the taking of civilian lives. Apparently, the realisation is not dawning on all Christian conservatives of the US that some of these ‘pastors’ could very well be the proverbial false prophets and the latter are almost everywhere, even in far distant Sri Lanka.

However, the political reality ‘on the ground’ is that the Christian Right is a stable support base of the Republican Right in the US. Considering this it should not come as a surprise to the seasoned political watcher if the Christian Right, read Christian fundamentalists, are hand-in-glove, so to speak, with President Trump. But it is a scathing indictment on these rightist sections that they are all for perpetrating war and destruction and not for the fostering of peace and reconciliation. Ideally, they should have impressed on their President the dire need to make peace.

That said, political commentators should consider it incumbent on themselves to point out that religion is being ‘weaponized’ in Iran as well. Theocratic rule in Iran has been essentially all about perpetuating the power of the clerical class. The reasons that led to the Islamic Revolution in Iran are complex and the indiscreet Westernization of Iran under the Shah dynasty is one of these but one would have expected Iran to develop from then on into a multi-party, pluralistic democratic state where people would be enjoying their fundamental rights, as enshrined in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, for example.

Moreover, Iran should have taken it upon itself to be a champion of world peace, in keeping with its Islamic credentials. But some past regimes in Iran had vowed to virtually bomb Israel out of existence and such regional policy trajectories could only bring perpetual conflict and war. Considering the current state of the Middle East it could be said that the unfettered playing out of these animosities is leading the region and the world to ‘reap the whirlwind’, having recklessly ‘sowed the wind’.

However, religious fundamentalism-inspired conflict and war has spread well beyond the Middle East into almost every region since 1979, the year of the Islamic Revolution in Iran. So much so, knowledgeable opinion now points out that religious identity has come to replace nationalism as a principal shaper of international politics or “geopolitics”, as quite a few sections misleadingly and incorrectly term it.

Elaborating on the decisive influence of religious identity, the well known and far traveled Western journalist Patrick Cockburn says in his authoritative and comprehensive book titled, ‘The Age of Jihad – Islamic State and the Great War for the Middle East’ at page 428 in connection with the war in Chechnya ; ‘If nationalism was not entirely dead, it no longer provided the ideological glue necessary to hold together and motivate people who were fighting a war. Unlike the Islamic faith, it was no longer a belief or a badge of identity for which people would fight very hard.’ (The book in reference was published by VERSO, London and New York).

In his wide coverage of Jihadist Wars the world over Cockburn goes on to state that today a call from a cleric could motivate his followers to lay down no less than their lives for a cause championed by the former. The 9/11 catastrophe alone should convince the observer that this is indeed true.

However, as often pointed out in this column, there is no alternative but to foster peace and reconciliation if a world free of bloodshed and strife is what is being sought. Fortunately we are not short of illustrious persons from the East and West who have shone a light on how best to get to a degree of peace. Besides Mahatma Gandhi of India, who was the subject of this column last week, we have former President of Iran Mohammad Khatami, who made a case for a ‘Dialogue of Civilizations’ rather than a ‘Clash of Civilizations’.

The time is more than ripe to take a leaf from these illustrious personalities, for, the current state of war in the Middle East has raised the possibility of a war that could transcend regional boundaries. The antagonists are obliged to exhaust all the peaceful options with the assistance of the UN system. Besides, war cannot ever have the blessings of the sane.

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Venerable Rahula Thera’s 35-year green mission and national Namal Uyana

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Venerable Rahula Thera

It was 35 years ago, on March 28, 1991, that Venerable Rahula Thera, then a young monk, embarked on a journey to the Na forest in Ulpathagama, Palagama, in the Anuradhapura District. Today, three and a half decades later, this mission stands as living proof of the enduring bond between Buddhist philosophy and the natural world.

Marking the 35th year of this green mission, Rahula Thera’s relentless dedication has transformed the National Namal Uyana into an environmental landmark admired not only across Sri Lanka but around the globe, as well.

When studying the life of Venerable Rahula Thera, one cannot ignore the profound connection between Buddhism and the environment. Buddhism is a philosophy deeply attuned to nature. The historical use of the sacred “Na Ruka” by all four Buddhas: Mangala Buddha, Sumana Buddha, Revata Buddha, and Sobhita Buddha — for enlightenment —demonstrates that from time immemorial, Buddhism has maintained a sacred bond with the Na tree. From the birth of Siddhartha to his enlightenment, the propagation of the Dharma, and even the great Parinirvana, all of these milestones unfolded in verdant, living landscapes.

Venerable Rahula Thera did not embark on the Namal Uyana mission seeking government support or personal gain. His commitment sprang from a deep devotion to the Buddha’s teachings on grove cultivation. A grove cultivator is one who spreads compassion for nature. As the Vanaropa Sutta teaches:

Venerable Rahula Thera reclaimed Namal Uyana which was then under the control of timber smugglers and treasure hunters. The term “Wanawasi” does not merely mean living in a forest; it signifies finding rest and enlightenment through nature, free from the destructive roots of greed, sin, and delusion.

Another defining aspect of Venerable Rahula Thera’s 35-year mission is the purification of the human mind. He has consistently taught the thousands who visit Namal Uyana that a person who loves a tree will never harm another human being. As the Dhamma proclaims:

It is important to remember that Venerable Rahula Thera devoted his life, without fear, speaking the truth and taking necessary action, tirelessly advancing the national mission he began. From 1991 to the present, he has worked with every government elected by the people, maintaining impartiality and independence from political ideology. Yet, he never hesitated to raise his voice fearlessly against any individual, of any rank or party, who committed wrongdoing.

Religious and Social Mission

The National Namal Uyana is not merely a forest; it is a magnificent heritage site, dating back to ancient times. Scattered across the landscape are boundary walls, the remains of ancient monastery complexes, and stone carvings believed to date back to the reign of King Devanampiyatissa. In earlier centuries, this sacred land had served as a meditation sanctuary for hundreds of monks. The name “National Namal Uyana,” by which this ecological and archaeological treasure is known today, was introduced by Venerable Rahula Thera in 1991. The government’s later recognition of the site as the National Namal Uyana stands as a significant achievement for both religion and national heritage.

Venerable Rahula Thera is a monk who has lived a life of renunciation. A striking example of this is his decision not to assume the position of Chief Incumbent of the National Namal Uyana Viharaya, instead entrusting the temple to the Ramanna Nikaya and its trustees. In doing so, he set a precedent for the contemporary Sangha. The Thera himself stated that he was merely the trustee of Namal Uyana, not its owner.

Legacy and Continuing Inspiration

The 35th anniversary of Venerable Wanawasi Rahula Thera’s arrival at Namal Uyana is not merely the commemoration of a period of time; it is a message of nature to future generations. Through his work, the Thera revived the ancient Hela tradition of loving trees and venerating the environment as something sacred. This religious and environmental mission remains unforgettable.

The revival experienced by Namal Uyana, after the arrival of Venerable Wanawasi Rahula Thera, is beyond simple description. Some of the major accomplishments achieved under his leadership include:

* Securing and protecting the largest Rose Quartz (Rosa Thirivana) reserve in South Asia.

* Restoring the Na forest spread across hundreds of acres, providing shelter to numerous rare plants and animal species.

* Transforming the area into a living centre for environmental education, offering practical learning experiences for thousands of schoolchildren and university students.

* Drawing the attention of world leaders and international environmentalists to Sri Lanka’s unique environmental heritage.

In recognition of his immense contribution to environmental conservation, Venerable Rahula Thera was honoured with the Presidential Environment Award and the Green Award in 2004—a significant moment in his life. Yet the Thera himself has always remained devoted to the work rather than the recognition it brings, making such appreciation even more meaningful.

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