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The poem Neruda never wrote

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In an exclusive interview with the Sunday Island, film maker Asoka Handagama shares the story behind his latest film- Alborada (The Dawning of the Day) inspired by the celebrated poet Pablo Neruda’s stay here as the Chilean Consul. The film is to be internationally premiered at the 34th edition of the Tokyo International Film Festival opening on October 30.

by Randima Attygalle

It is the year 1929. Young Chilean poet and diplomat Pablo Neruda whose fame preceded him arrives in the British-occupied Ceylon as the Chilean Consul. By then Neruda, had already become an international literary celebrity. His work, Twenty Love Poems and Song of Despair was among the bestselling books of poetry in the 20th century. He was called ‘the poet of the people, the oppressed and the forgotten.’

The activist-Consul arrives in Ceylon, barely 25 and empty-handed except for his memory of the disengaged relationship with his former Burmese lover, Josie Bliss. She was obsessively devoted to Neruda and possessed by an overwhelming jealousy. Neruda who called Josie ‘a love terrorist’ and ‘a species of Burmese Panther’ would document in his memoir: (completed shortly before his death in 1973) ‘Sometimes a light would wake me, a ghost moving on the other side of the mosquito net. It was Josie, flimsily dressed in white, brandishing her long, sharp knife. It was she, walking round and round my bed, for hours at a time, without quite making up her mind to kill me. When you die, she used to say to me, my fears will end.’

While his ‘Bliss’ was turning into a taunting jealousy, Neruda receives a cable from Santiago informing him of his immediate transfer to Ceylon. Welcoming his emancipation from his lover, Neruda settles in a beach-front cottage in Wellawatte and is taken care of by a man servant.

He attempts to bury his memories in the vast tropical shores and takes refuge in an atmosphere of solitude he creates for himself. In his memoir is a chapter dedicated to his stay in Ceylon titled Luminous Solitude where he writes: ‘each morning I was overpowered by the miracle of newly cleansed nature.’

Neruda was soon found in the artistic inner circles of Colombo. He was acquainted with Lionel Wendt and George Keyt. The young Chilean poet had a bevy of female admirers whom he called ‘dusky and golden girls of Boer, English and Dravidian blood.’ They bedded him ‘sportingly, asking for nothing in return,’ as he documents.

The young diplomat was infatuated with a Tamil woman of a low caste who came every day at dawn to clean his outdoor latrine. He found her to be the most beautiful woman he had seen in Ceylon. To win her attention, Neruda left her gifts of fruit or silk on the path leading to the latrine, but she took no notice of them. One day he gripped her by the wrist and stared into her eyes. ‘Unsmiling, she let herself be led away and soon was naked in my bed. Her waist, so very slim, her full hips, the brimming cups of her breasts made her like one of the thousand-year-old sculptures from the south of India. … She kept her eyes wide open all the while, completely unresponsive. She was right to despise me. The experience was never repeated.’

The act became a subject of international scrutiny in later years, even prompting a reassessment of the Nobel Laureate’s merit. Neruda who was celebrated as ‘the greatest poet in the 20th century in any language’ by Gabriel Garcia Marquez was even labeled a ‘rapist’. Activists challenged his documentation of ‘she let herself be led away’ as a blatant lie. The decision to rename Chile’s busiest Santiago International Airport after Neruda was met with outrage from human rights activists who argued that the honour was inappropriate for a man who admitted to rape in his own memoirs.

“Although there are many accounts of Neruda’s life portrayed in fiction and film, this part of the story is often carefully left out. Though his poems about love outwardly sound romantic, they hide within them the eroticization and objectification of women and particularly, women of colour,” reflects the film-maker Asoka Handagama whose latest film Alborada (The Dawning of the Day) is an elaboration of Neruda’s controversial sexual assault.

The film which is to hold its world premiere in Tokyo (Oct. 30 – Nov. 8) is a fictionalized account of Neruda’s stay in Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) from 1929 to 1931 as the Chilean Consul. The film explores the psychological and the emotional factors behind Neruda’s attraction to a woman bound by her caste: a woman considered to be ‘untouchable’, unknown to her playing a part in a bizarre fantasy that ended in a sexual assault.

A fan of Neruda’s poetry, Handagama found the poet’s mixed element of art and controversy a tempting subject for a film script. The script which was inspired by Neruda’s Memoirs is a fruit of 10 years of research on the poet. Handagama left his position as a Deputy Governor of the Central Bank three years before his formal retirement age to complete what he calls his ‘dream film.’

A rebel himself with his cinematic expression, Handagama intrepidly unearths the famed poet’s often interred infamous chapter in what he calls an ‘ironic act.’ “It is ironic that an Asian film-maker, coming from a so called restrained cultural landscape is throwing light on Neruda’s sexual antics when all the while Western cinema makers and fiction writers chose to leave them out in the exposition of him,” smiles Handagama.

Reference to Neruda’s Burmese lover Josie Bliss in his poetry is plenty although she is widely regarded as a figment of the poet’s imagination, notes the film maker. “The depiction of her as a perceived threat, a desire and barbarity in his poem Widower’s Tango, combined with his confession show Neruda’s complicated relationship with women and race.” However, no poem of Neruda’s alludes to the ‘untouchable woman’ by whom he was smitten, despite being described as the ‘most beautiful Ceylonese woman’ or one resembling a ‘thousand-year-old sculpture’ from South India. Handagama’s tagline for his film, The poem Neruda never wrote validates this exclusion. It is also an allegorical reminder of the poet’s element which many tended to discount.

Alborada reinvents the rustic west coast of the island Neruda saw in the 1930s. This was no easy task says its creator. “We had to recreate Wellawatta of his time and this was not possible within Colombo due to the changing skyline. We set it up in Nonagama and in Ranminithenna Tele-Cinema Village.”

Lending a cinematic interpretation to an isolated incident at home which is unfamiliar to the authentic Sri Lankan film print, Alborada is to be a refreshing new experience for the local audience. The film also hopes to spur a public discourse, says its director. Starring Spanish actor Luis J Romero as Neruda and French actress Anne Solene Hatte as Josie, the dialogues are in English with Sinhala and Tamil subtitles. The film also debuts several artistes. The main cast comprises Rithika Kodithuwakku (Tamil woman), Malcolm Machado (Neruda’s man servant), Dominic Keller (Lionel Wendt), Nimaya Harris (Patsy), Thusitha Laknath, Kaushalya Mendis, Samantha Balasuriya, Kasun Perera and Kanchana Nandani. Edited by Ravindra Guruge, the film is produced by H.D. Premasiri.

The Tokyo International Film Festival (TokyoIFF) which will feature Alborada is among the invited films for its ‘international competition’ which is the highlight of the festival. Multi-award winning French screen and stage actress Isabelle Huppert will chair the competition jury. This year’s theme of TokyoIFF is ‘Crossing Borders’. “There are plenty of international film festivals today. But only 14 of them are regarded as ‘A-Grade film festivals. TokyoIFF is one of them and the only Asian festival to get this recognition so far,” remarks Handagama. This year’s festival will be opened with the world premiere of Clint Eastwood’s latest film Cry Macho.



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Sri Lanka eyes conservation-led tourism boost as Gehan urges integrated approach

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View of Trincomalee from Fort Frederick

Sri Lanka could unlock a powerful new economic pathway by integrating biodiversity, archaeology and cultural heritage into a single conservation-driven tourism model, according to author, banker and naturalist Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne.

Speaking to The Island, de Silva Wijeyeratne said the country possesses a rare convergence of natural and historical assets that, if strategically presented, could reposition Sri Lanka as a leading global destination for nature and heritage tourism.

“At the moment, these elements exist, but they are not fully connected,” he said. “What Sri Lanka has is extraordinary—a complete story of life, from ancient history to modern biodiversity. The opportunity is to bring that together in a way that creates value.”

His remarks come at a time when policymakers are seeking sustainable avenues to revive the economy, with tourism identified as a key growth sector. De Silva Wijeyeratne is currently researching his next book, ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing in the UK.

Koneswaram Temple Trincomalee

He said his recent field visit reinforced the untapped potential of integrated landscapes—particularly in the eastern region around Trincomalee.

He spent four days in Trincomalee with Hiran and Hashan Coory, two members of the senior leadership in Jetwing Hotels. Commenting on the visit, he said “Within a short distance, you have forests, marine ecosystems, archaeological sites and protected areas. This is not about isolated attractions—it’s about creating a connected experience that can compete globally.”

He noted that such an approach could continue to transform Sri Lanka’s tourism model beyond traditional beach-centric travel. “You can offer visitors wildlife, marine biodiversity and ancient history in a single journey,” he said. “That’s a very powerful proposition.”

Speaking more on Trincomalee’s potential, he said the combination of ancient history, the more recent colonial history and buildings, the beautiful beaches and coves, the snorkelling and marine mammal watching combined with the potential to create a huge national park that will have large mammals on the doorstep of the city means Trincomalee can become the city with the greatest tourism potential of any city in Sri Lanka.

Maritime and Naval History Museum Trincomalee

“A vast national park on the scale of better-known parks such as Wilpattu and Yala can be created by connecting the forest reserves which stretch from Kantalai and through to the Naval Headworks Sanctuary, almost to the borders of the Trincomalee town” he says. “A new national park could be constructed with a network of safari roads and water holes and grass plains to increase the prey density for iconic mammals like the leopard. Trincomalee can then become a top land safari destination with an entrance gate to a national park just 15 minutes drive from the town. No other city will be able to rival it for land safaris, marine safaris, ancient and colonial history, staggering views and beaches and the heady mix of various ethnic groups with their religious beliefs, cuisine and arts. Trincomalee could overshadow every other city in Sri Lanka for tourism if developed properly”.

Velgam Vehera

De Silva Wijeyeratne emphasised that conservation must be positioned not as a constraint, but as an economic enabler. “If you encourage and enable responsible visitation, it brings revenues to these areas,” he said. “That supports conservation and also creates livelihoods for local communities.”

However, he cautioned that development must be carefully managed to avoid damaging sensitive ecosystems. “You need development that is sensitive to these landscapes and the proper infrastructure to manage visitation,” he said. “The value lies in preserving what is already there.”

In addition to tourism, de Silva Wijeyeratne highlighted the need to strengthen Sri Lanka’s conservation capacity through international collaboration. He has proposed the introduction of a special visa to attract experienced global conservationists willing to work on a voluntary basis.

He referenced his article ‘A visa for bringing in expertise and expanding tourism’ which was published in The Island on Friday, 23 May, 2025, and is available online. In this he proposes a special visa to address four strands – volunteering, internships, academic exchange and short term study. The idea is that the visa should be as easy as to obtain an online tourist visa, but the visitor can now apply for a longer term visa for a declared purpose, such as volunteering.

Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne

He was careful to emphasise that the proposed visa is not for paid work and does not give the visitor special rights, and any relevant permits and permission need be obtained by the local partner. “There are people with 30 or 40 years of experience in research and conservation who would gladly come to Sri Lanka and contribute” he said. “If we create a proper framework, they can work with local organisations, share knowledge and build expertise.” Such a system, he stressed, would not undermine local employment. “These are unpaid roles—they are not taking jobs away. Furthermore, they will help locals to upskill,” he said. “They are helping to strengthen the system.”

De Silva Wijeyeratne also underscored the importance of science communication in driving conservation outcomes. Drawing from his recent lecture to the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society, he said public understanding of biodiversity remains limited, particularly when it comes to foundational elements, such as plant life. “In my recent lecture I started with plants because they are often overlooked,” he said. “In Sri Lanka we have the descendants of ancient plant groups, like lycophytes and bryophytes, as well as an abundance of the relatively more modern flowering plants (or angiosperms). They all form the basis of all ecosystems.” Sri Lankan researchers would benefit from international collaborations to describe and study the ecology of species found in Sri Lanka. As an example of the gaps in our knowledge, he pointed that it is hard to find online even a species inventory of Sri Lankan species of Lycophytes.

He further highlighted the interconnected nature of life, pointing to the role of microscopic organisms. “Every cell in our body contains mitochondria, and that DNA originated from bacteria,” he said. “So we are, in a sense, composite organisms built on ancient biological relationships. “This perspective, he said, is critical to fostering a deeper appreciation of biodiversity and the need for its conservation. “If people understand how interconnected life is, they begin to value it differently,” he said.

De Silva Wijeyeratne’s ongoing research for ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka,’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing, also touches on Sri Lanka’s layered history, including its colonial past. During his recent visit to Trincomalee, he visited the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, the brother of renowned novelist Jane Austen. “I read in the Bradt Guide to Sri Lanka that her brother was buried in the Esplanade Cemetery. There was an article online by Nishan Fernando in the Sunday Times where he describes how, in 1984, he and his father, Admiral Clancy Fernando, located the grave. Fernando wrote of the burial ground on the Esplanade in the middle of Trincomalee town, opposite the beautiful horseshoe shaped Dutch Bay.”

After a false start at another cemetery, using Google maps, de Silva Wijeyeratne with others, including Hiran and Hashan Cooray, some of the senior team from Jetwing Hotels, visited St. Stephan Cemetery which is around 400 meters from the Maritime and Naval History Museum. ‘We found the grave as described in the Sunday Times article by Nishan Fernando. But talking to various hoteliers and people in tourism in Trincomalee, we were struck by how many people were unaware of its existence. Hopefully, knowing that the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, brother of Jane Austen, is roughly in the middle of St. Stephan Cemetery, in Trincomalee, will help others, with an interest in Jane Austen, to locate it.”

During his time in Trincomalee, with the Jetwing Hotels team, de Silva Wijeyeratne also visited Mederigiriya, Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. They encountered elephants on their visits to Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. “That brief visit alone shows how rich and complex Sri Lanka’s story is,” he said. “It spans pre-colonial, colonial and post-colonial periods.” For de Silva Wijeyeratne, the challenge now lies in translating this richness into a coherent national narrative. “This country has everything—biodiversity, ancient civilisation, marine ecosystems, etc.,” he said. “Few places in the world can offer such an all-round package.”

He stressed that aligning conservation with tourism and knowledge-sharing could deliver long-term benefits. “It’s about connecting the dots,” he said. “If we do that successfully, Sri Lanka can position itself as a world-class destination, while protecting its natural and cultural heritage.” As the country looks to rebuild and diversify its economy, de Silva Wijeyeratne’s message is clear: Conservation, when strategically integrated, could become one of Sri Lanka’s strongest assets. (Pictures courtesy Gehan de Silva) Wijeyeratne

By Ifham Nizam

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Bringing the flavours and spirit of Jaffna to life

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Grace draped in tradition

Long before the first dish was placed at the Jaffna food festival at Cinnamon Bentota Beach, a dedicated team of staff and culinary staff journeyed to Jaffna.

In the North they stepped out of professional hotels and into homes, road side eateries and bustling local markets. They observed, listened and, most importantly, tasted. The experience was as much about unlearning as it was learning.

They spent time with local people, women who have perfected their craft over decades, fishermen who spoke of the day’s fresh catch, spice vendors who explained the subtle difference in dried chillies and roasted blends.

They saw the liberal use of black peppers, tamarind and the depth of roasted curry powders.

In the end, what the team brought back from the North was not just technique or taste, it was perspective. What stayed most was the spirit of Jaffna, its people resourceful grounded and deeply connected to roots.

And so when the festival came to life in Bentota, it was not just a recreation, it was a reflection. They realised the heart of Jaffna is not only in its flavours but in its people.

Cinnamon Bentota Beach — signature selection celebrated the rich heritage, vibrant culture, and authentic cuisine of Northern Sri Lanka with its signature “Jaffna Night” recently. The evening was a heartfelt journey into Jaffna’s traditions, inviting guests to experience the warmth, flavours, and stories of this remarkable region.

Guests were welcomed with the traditional greetings, followed by religious rituals that set the evening in a meaningful cultural context. The highlight was the launch of the “Jaffna Culinary Journey” video series, capturing the resort team’s immersive exploration of Jaffna’s culinary landscape and community life.

From preparing local delicacies alongside villagers, to stepping into traditional homes, participating in early morning poojas, and wandering bustling fish markets; vegetable markets, the team discovered that Jaffna’s cuisine is inseparable from its identity, history, and community spirit.

Cinnamon Bentota Beach — Signature Selection shared reflections on the journey, emphasising how meaningful experiences can preserve and honour cultural heritage. The evening culminated in the official launch of the Jaffna Food Festival at the resort – a continuation of the journey that brings authentic Jaffna flavours and stories directly to guests in Bentota.

“Jaffna Night” was more than a culinary celebration; it was a testament to connection, culture, and the shared joy of learning through food and tradition.

By Zanita Careem

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Sun Siyam Pasikudah paves the way in sustainability

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Upul - Group Sustainability Manager

Sun Siyam Pasikudah has added another milestone to its growing list of achievements by earning the prestigious Travel Gold Certification, a recognition that reflects the resort’s dedication to exceptional hospitality, high service standards and memorable guest experience. At this resort, sustainability isn’t just a concept it is a commitment. So driving eco conscious change, behind the scenes, is Chaminda Upul Kumara, shaping a hospitality experience where luxury meets responsibility .­

Q: Sun Siyam Pasikudah has earned Travelife Gold Certification, covering 147 criteria, from energy and water to wildlife and community welfare. What did that journey genuinely push the property and the wider group to do differently?

A: Earning Travelife Gold was never just about getting the certificate. Working through 147 criteria covering energy, water, waste, wildlife, and community welfare made us look hard at ourselves and ask whether we were truly doing enough in each of those areas.

What it really pushed us to do was move beyond compliance. We tightened our conservation practices, improved how we manage waste, and put more deliberate effort into biodiversity and community programmes. But perhaps the most meaningful shift was weaving sustainability into the guest experience itself, making it visible and accessible without ever compromising on comfort or quality.

At the group level, Pasikudah became a working model. The practices we refined here have since been adapted and adopted across our other properties, creating a culture where sustainability is not a side project managed by one department but something that shapes how every team member thinks and works. It reinforced what Sun Siyam Care stands for: that responsible hospitality is not a goal we work towards. It is simply who we are.

Q: Most of the Sun Siyam story has been written in the Maldives. How does Pasikudah write its own chapter, given how different the setting, the coastline, and the community around it are?

A: When the civil conflict in Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province ended in 2009, our founder Ahmed Siyam Mohamed saw something in Pasikudah Bay that many others had not yet noticed. The calm, shallow waters and unspoiled beaches were extraordinary, but he also saw a region ready for renewal and an opportunity to be part of that through responsible tourism.

The property opened in 2014 as a 34-room luxury boutique resort, quietly introducing refined hospitality to Sri Lanka’s east coast. Then came COVID-19 and the country’s economic crisis, two of the hardest back-to-back challenges any hospitality business could face. Rather than simply wait it out, General Manager Mohamed Arshed Refai led a comprehensive transformation of the property.

The refurbishment was guided by international design firm Studio 67, but its real character came from a very deliberate decision: every single material used was locally sourced, and Sri Lankan artisans and craftspeople were involved throughout the process. It was not just a renovation. It was a recommitment to the region and the people in it.

That is what sets Pasikudah apart within the Sun Siyam family. The Maldives properties have their own extraordinary identity, but Pasikudah’s chapter is distinctly Sri Lankan. From post-conflict rebuilding to post-crisis renewal, it is a story of courage, community, and the belief that investing in a place means investing in its people.

Q:There is an organic farm on the property growing over 38 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Tell us about that. It feels like it says something bigger about how the resort thinks about its place here.

A: The farm is a fairly direct expression of how we think about our responsibility to this place. At least 30 percent of our menu is plant-based, and being able to grow a meaningful portion of that on the property makes that commitment tangible rather than theoretical. Guests receive their welcome drinks made with fruit grown here. The chefs know exactly where their produce comes from and what it took to grow it.

We also have what we call climate-conscious dishes on the menu, options designed around sustainable food principles that prompt guests to think about what they are eating and where it originated. Beyond the farm itself, we source a significant share of our ingredients from local farmers and producers in the surrounding community. That reduces food miles and carbon emissions, but it also means the resort is actively supporting the local food economy rather than bypassing it.

Put simply, the farm is not a marketing feature. It reflects a commitment to operating in a way that is connected to this land and these communities, rather than sitting apart from them.

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