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Little island , big flavours : Sri Lankan food finally gets its due

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By Zinara Rathnayake

When Kolamba first opened in 2019, many diners who walked into the charming eatery in central London’s Soho district weren’t familiar with Sri Lankan cuisine. They thought it was just like Indian food, says the restaurant’s co-founder, Aushi Meewella, who grew up in Sri Lanka.

“We felt Sri Lankan food was underrepresented in central London, so we wanted to bring the dishes we grew up on and missed when we moved away,” she tells CNN.

While Sri Lanka is India’s little neighbour, with only 22 million people, its food and culture are quite different.

And now, a new generation of Sri Lankan chefs and entrepreneurs across the world is shining the spotlight on their native cuisine, while embracing the country’s diverse culinary heritage.

Meewella credits tourism for the recent surge in interest and support for Sri Lankan food.

Although tourist arrivals were halted by a series of setbacks including a deadly Easter bomb attack, the Covid-19 pandemic, and, more recently, the country’s worst-ever economic crisis, Sri Lanka is back on the tourism radar, already tracking over 800,000 visitors in 2023 as of the first week of August. As Meewella explains it: “People visit, discover our diverse island, and try our food, which they realize is also delicious.”

Chef Dhayanie Williams, a contestant on “MasterChef Australia 2019,” says the rise of social media in the last decade and programs like Masterchef have also helped professional and home chefs promote Sri Lankan food in the international market.

“We’ve seen many participants stick to their roots and create authentic Sri Lankan dishes on these programs,” says the chef, who is known for the Sri Lankan crab curry and chicken curry she cooked on the show.

“This continuous online exposure makes people try out Sri Lankan food in restaurants.”

Diverse influences

Today, more and more Sri Lankan chefs across the world are championing Sri Lankan food while defying common misconceptions about the cuisine.

“It has helped change the global perception that Sri Lankan food is different from Indian food, and it’s not only a lot of curries paired with rice,” Williams says.

For example, despite sharing a name, Sri Lankan roti are smaller, thicker “discs” made of freshly grated coconut and rice flour, unlike the large Indian rotis, which are made of wheat.

Rice, coconut milk, native fruits, vegetables and seafood act as the building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Meewella explains that it draws inspiration from diverse ethnic cultures and the influences of the Dutch and Portuguese, who once ruled Sri Lanka.

At Kolamba, mains include mutton poriyal, a common preparation in the Tamil-populated northern region of Sri Lanka in which the meat is dry-fried with onions, green chili and lime. One popular dessert is watalappam, a coconut and palm jaggery custard prepared by Muslims to celebrate Eid.

Meewella points out that Sri Lankan cuisine is also heavily plant-based with many vegan options, which helps the cuisine stand out and resonate with global audiences. “This way of eating is not a fad for us,” she adds.

For centuries, Sri Lankans have made use of wild and organically-grown ingredients like jackfruit, water spinach and yams, blending them with spices and herbs, and frying and currying them to create dishes with unique flavors. Kolamba’s menu pays homage to these plant-based recipes with dishes like breadfruit curry cooked with coconut milk and raw green banana fried with grated coconut.

In Sri Lankan cooking, the white flesh of the coconut is grated and squeezed to prepare rich, creamy coconut milk, which thickens different vegetable and meat-based curries. Fresh coconut milk is also added to a morning smoothie-like drink called kola kenda, made with herbs and rice. During celebratory events like the New Year or the first day of a job, Sri Lankans also cook coconut milk with rice to prepare a creamy breakfast called kiribath.

“When I hosted brunches at home, I didn’t expect there would be an appetite for dishes like kiribath, but people fell in love with the flavours of my childhood,” says Sam Fore, a Sri Lankan-American chef based in Lexington, Kentucky. “Eventually, the demand got so great that I set up a tent behind a bar in town to start selling the food I was cooking.”

Within two years, Fore’s pop-up got nationwide attention for spotlighting simple recipes incorporating Sri Lankan elements. Now, Fore is ready to open her first restaurant in Lexington.

Spicy, sour, sweet

Although people assume that Sri Lankan food is spicy, it’s made up of many other spices and herbs besides chilli. Coriander seeds, black pepper, mustard seeds, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, curry leaves, pandan leaves and lemongrass are all used to flavour and scent dishes.

Spices are also roasted and ground together to make different types of curry powder, an essential flavouring agent.

These varied flavours of Sri Lankan cuisine apply well to common culinary techniques, Fore says.

For instance, she prepares fried chicken, a dish Americans are familiar with, but infuses it with the spices of Sri Lankan chicken curry, grinding and combining them with buttermilk to carry the flavours.

“I don’t dump the spices down in my dishes,” Fore says. “I try to honour the recipes passed down to me and introduce flavours to diners that appear unexpectedly, but in a way that makes them understand my point of view.”

Across the world, chefs like Fore aren’t shying away from using innovative approaches to introduce Sri Lankan cuisine.

At Nadodi, a Kuala Lumpur restaurant that serves elevated Sri Lankan and South Indian fare, Williams came across a dish called “Yesterday.” This dish was reminiscent of Sri Lankan diya bath or pazhaya soru kanji, a day-old rice soaked overnight in water and eaten with dried, cured chilies.

Nadodi serves it with fried dry fish and pickles, all layered in a mini clay pot. “The dish is authentic and awakens one’s memories through elevating flavours, and plating it in a sophisticated way,” Williams says.

In Zagreb, Croatia, Brian Senaratne, co-founder of the city’s popular Sri Lankan restaurant Curry Bowl, shares similar values.

“We preserve original flavours, but keep it simple,” he says. “Usually, when we (Sri Lankans) go to a restaurant, we order several curries and rice separately, and share it with the entire group, but we noticed that European diners each order a dish. So having 10-15 curry dishes on the menu will only make it very complicated.”

Instead, Senaratne simplified this decision-making process for his diners, most of whom are European and haven’t previously had Sri Lankan food, by introducing curry-based bowls that also look appealing.

The theatre of making some dishes also helps them stand out. Curry Bowl’s top seller is kotthu, a popular street food made by smashing roti with vegetables, eggs and meat on a metal grid with metal clamps, leading to a distinctive metal-on-metal sound.

“This was quite a show for the first-comers,” says Senaratne. “They hear the noise, come inside, and are completely amazed. We’ve had many people who try kotthu, hear about Sri Lanka from us and end up visiting Sri Lanka.”

As chefs and entrepreneurs across the world add their unique touches to native dishes, both Fore and Williams believe that interest in Sri Lankan food will continue to expand.

“As the cuisine grows, it’s going to take some creative applications of flavours like chili, lime and tamarind for a full crossover into the international palate,” Fore says. “It’s up to us as cooks to honour our roots while innovating for the future. I cannot wait for casual Sri Lankan food to become a nationwide craving across America.”

(BBC)



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The Thinnai heartbeat of Northern tourism

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Sorrounded by lush greenary and tranquil open spaces

As Northern Sri Lanka continues to emerge as one of the island’s most competing destinations , The Thinnai hotel stands as a shining ambassador of the region, a place where timeless traditions meet contemporary luxury, where every stay tells a story.This is a place where visitors leave not only with cherished memories but also with a deeper appreciation of the culture, warmth and enduring spirit of Jaffna.

The Thinnai Hotel is for more than a luxury retreat, it is a celebration of Jaffna’s heritage, hospitality and residence. From its 39 all suite accommodation, inspired by tourism revival, welcoming travellers from around the world while creating opportunities for local communities and preserving cultural tradition, at this place every stay creates lasting memories.

Tucked away just a few kilometers from the heart of Jaffna. The Thinnai hotel is more than a luxury boutique hotel, it is a destination that celebrates the heritage, hospitality and timeless traditions of Northern Sri Lanka. Inspired by the traditional Tamil Thinnai, the raised verandah where families and neighbours once gathered to welcome guests and share stories, the hotel transforms the cultural symbol into a contemporary travel experience.

Designed around authentic Jaffna architecture, The Thinnai hotel blends elegant all suite accommodation with peace and relaxation.

Every suite reflects a harmonious balance between traditions and modern comfort, making it an ideal place for couples, families, tourists and business travellers. Beyond its luxurious setting, The Thinnai serves as a gateway to the cultural treasures of Jaffna. Guests can easily visit economic landmarks, such as the Nallur Temple, explore colonial era architecture, discover local markets, savour Jaffna cuisine and experience the warmth of Tamil hospitality. As tourism continues to grow in the Northern Province, The Thinnai hotel stands as one of Jaffna’s most distinctive hospitality landmark, the region’s rich cultural heritage with contemporary luxury.

This hotel is a cultural ambassador that connects visitors from all over the world with traditions, history and hospitality of Jaffna.

The affable and General Manager, Selvarajah Roshanth, is focussed on delivering exceptional guest experiences, maintaining high hospitality standards and promoting Jaffna as a premier tourist destination in Northern Sri Lanka. He leads with warmth,vision and an unwavering commitment to authentic northern hospitality. He showcases the best of Sri Lanka’s north. He brings a wealth of experience and the guest first philosphy to The Thinnai hotel.

Roshanth is recognised for his warm approachable and guest centric leadership style, and when asked why this hotel is different in this region, he said ‘The Thinnai is not just a hotel, it is an authentic expression of Jaffna’s identity. What makes us different is that we don’t simply offer accommodation. We offer an immerseive cultural experience”

Feast on authentic flavours

Thinnai farm: Beauty of sustainable agricuture

Refreshing oasis where guests can unwind

Dedicated team

Selvarajah Roshanth,whose vision and leadership continue to elevate property’s elevation

Looking ahead, he explained The Thinnai aims to further strengthen its position as Northern Sri Lanka’s leading boutique hospitality destination by enhancing its great experiences, curating more authentic, cultural and culinary activities and expanding its sustainability initiatives.

‘We make plans to deepen its engagement with local communities through environmental conservation, hospitality training programmes and educational CSR projects ensuring that tourism growth directly benefits the people of the North.

The Thinnai hotel offers 39 spacious all suite accommodations, thoughtfully designed to blend traditional Jaffna architecture with modern luxury. The accommodation includes deluxe, suites, superior suites, luxury suites, and Presidential suites, and each suite is equipment with modern amenities such as an air-conditioner, wifi, led, TVs, mini bar refrigerator and comfortable living spaces.

The Thinnai offers a memorable culinary journey that celebrates the rich flavours of Jaffna while also catering to international tastes. Guests can enjoy specialities like Jaffna crab curry, Jaffna Cool, Dosai, Idiyappam, other sea food dishes and themed buffet nights followed by cultural shows.

A visit to the Thinnai farm is one of the highlights of staying at this hotel because it offers guests an authentic connection to Jaffna’s agricultural heritage and sustainable way of life. This farm supplies many of the fresh ingredients used in the hotel kitchens ensuring a genuine farm to table experience. It is an opportunity to appreciate the region’s rich agricultural traditions, breathe in the tranquil countryside and understand how sustainability and local culture are woven into everyday life. Guests can stroll through thriving vegetable gardens, gaining a first hand appreciation of farm to table experience. One of the unique cultural experiences offered through the Thinnai is the opportunity to discover the art of Jaffna pottery. We saw the traditional pottery making experience highlighting the rich artistic heritage of Northern Sri Lanka while supporting local artisans and presenting centuries old traditions. We saw the skilled artisans demonstrating techniques that have been passed down though generations.

The visit is more than a sightseeing excursion, it is an immersion into one of Jaffna’s oldest living crafts. This activity is part of the Thinnai commitment connecting travellers with authentic Northern Sri Lankan culture. A visit to the pottery village perfectly complements a stay at ‘The Thinnai leaving all of us with a deeper appreciation of the North’s reach cultural identity and timeless craftsmanship.”

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Dr. Hina Shah’s vision for inclusive growth

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Empowering women, inspiring change, building a stronger tomorrow - Dr Hina Shah with Counsellor Development and Head of Cooperation, Canadian High Commission in Sri Lanka Kiril Lordanov, Secretary General and Executive Director Canadian Chamber of Commerce , Sri Lanka, M/s Nilupul De Silva

Empowering women, transforming economies

The Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Sri Lanka (CanCham SL) recently hosted an insightful dialogue on Women’s Development, Economic Empowerment, and the Sustainability of Small and Medium Enterprises, bringing together business leaders, policymakers, and entrepreneur, to explore practical pathways towards inclusive economic growth.

The event highlighted the critical role women play in driving economic progress and innovation.

Discussion focussed on creating opportunities for women entrepreneurs, improving access to finance, strengthening leadership capabilities and addressing barriers that continue to limit women’s full participation in the economy.

A key feature of the dialogue was the emphasis on SME sustainability participants and examined how small and medium sized enterprises can remain resistent in a rapidly evolving business environment though innovation, digital transformation, sustainable business practises and stronger public, private partnerships. SMEs which form the backbone of Sri Lanka’s economy, were recognised as a vital contribution to employment generation and community development.

Where ideas inspiration and opportunities came together

Among the distinguished speakers was Dr. Hina Shah, Founder International Centre for Entrepreneurship Development and Career Development (Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India) who shared valuable insights on leadership innovation and the importance of creating eco systems that enable women to thrive in business. Hosted by the Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Sri Lanka (CanCham) her address underscored the need for mentorship, access to networks and supportive policies that help women led business scale to succeed.

The keynote speaker, Dr. Hina Shah, shared insights from decades of work empowering women entrepreneurs. She highlighted how women-led enterprises drive economic progress and social transformation, drawing on India’s experience in building resilient ecosystems. Dr Shah’s experience bring a rare combination of visionary leadership, proven institutional models, global development experience, scalable implementation systems and many high impact initiatives.

She said ‘ “Established with support from Global Affairs Canada and under the patronage of the Canadian High Commissioner to Sri Lanka, CanCham SL is committed to strengthening trade, investment, innovation, and people-to-people ties between Sri Lanka and Canada. Advancing women’s economic participation is a central priority, aligned with Canada’s commitment to gender equality and inclusive growth.

Powerful conversation on leadership, innovation and economic empowerment

The dialogue focussed on practical strategies to improve market access, strengthen business eco systems, enhance financial inclusion, and support the long-term sustainability of women-led SMEs.

Looking Ahead

CanCham SL announced plans to form a core stakeholder group with representatives from Sri Lanka, Canada, and the wider Indo-Pacific region to develop a long-term strategic framework for women’s entrepreneurship and SME development.

The Chamber will also host an Economic Summit for Women to scale these discussions, showcase successful women-led enterprises, and forge partnerships for investment and innovation across the region.

CanCham SL remains committed to working with governments, development partners, and business leaders to create an enabling environment where women can thrive as leaders and drivers of economic transformation.

The Secretary General and Executive Director, Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Sri Lanka M/s Nilupul De Silva said: “At the Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Sri Lanka, we believe that empowering women is not only a matter of quality but also a key driver of economic growth and sustainable development. Today’s discussion reflects our commitment to building a bridge between Sri Lanka and Canada while encouraging collaboration across the public and private sectors. Together, we can create opportunities that enable women-led businesses to thrive and contribute meaningfully to national development.’’ She extended her sincere gratitude to partners, sponsors and all participates for being part of this important conversation and to continue working together to inspire change, strengthen SMEs, and build a future where every woman has the opportunity to lead, innovate and succeed.

This event aligns with CanCham Sri Lanka’s broader vision of promoting inclusive growth, entrepreneurship, innovation and sustainable development while strengthening economic ties between Sri Lanka and Canada. Through initiatives, such as this, the chamber aims to create meaningful opportunities that enable women entrepreneurs to thrive, contribute to job creation and play a greater role in shaping Sri Lanka’s economic future.

The event was held CanCham SL office Horton Place.

By Zanita Careem

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Echoes of the Past: A Conversation with Priyalal Sirisena

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Priyalal Sirisena

When Attorney and former The Island journalist Priyalal Sirisena turned his attention to fiction, the result was Deyyange Atha (The God’s Elephant)—a striking debut that was shortlisted for the 2025 Swarna Pusthaka Awards. Drawing deeply from his background in human rights and the rule of law, Sirisena’s novel cuts through the glamour of 19th-century history to expose elite corruption and the endless cycle of political power plays. In this interview, the author discusses how the plight of the common man inspired his unique narrative structure.

Q: Your recent novel, Deyyange Atha, takes place during a highly turbulent chapter of Sri Lankan history. What drew you to the twilight of the Kandyan Kingdom as the backdrop for this story?

A: The era of the Nayakkara dynasty is fascinating because it was defined by a massive crisis of legitimacy. You had a foreign-lineage monarchy ruling over a deeply resentful Sinhalese nobility. Figures like Ehelepola Adigar weren’t just fighting the King; they were actively scheming with external colonial powers to upend the throne.

What struck me most was the rhetoric. Both the King and the aristocracy claimed they were acting purely to “save the motherland,” when in reality, it was a raw, unadulterated scramble for control. I wanted to strip away the grand political and look at how this endless friction ground down the ordinary citizens who had no stake in their power games.

Q: You have expressed some skepticism about how history is portrayed in modern Sri Lankan media. How does your book counter that?

A: what I see is that, much of our contemporary art, television, and cinema treats history like a glossy escapist fantasy. We are fed a steady diet of romanticised national pride. I think it completely erases the realities of the commoners.

Lately, history has also been weaponised. It’s used as a beautiful distraction to hide modern political failures or to fuel ethnic division and chauvinism. When you wrap corruption in the flag of “national interest,” people get mesmerised. They get so caught up in the emotional high of nationalism that they forget their own empty stomachs. I think it is a challenge for any artist to counter this treand.

Q: In your novel, a single elephant serves as the catalyst for the entire plot, instead of focusing purely on human political figures. Why did you choose an animal to anchor a historical political critique?

A: The elephant is the lens through which we see the entire social hierarchy fracture. The story actually sparks into motion with a violent act—the killing of this magnificent creature by a British covert operative, Major Hardy.

Once this elephant enters the picture in rural Sabaragamuwa, it completely upends the status quo. It stops being just an animal and becomes a flashpoint. The King demands it as a symbol of his absolute right to rule, while the Adigar is pushed to his limits trying to secure it. By tracking the ripples of this one elephant’s fate, we see a mirror reflection of how every layer of society—from the poorest peasant to the highest noble—is ultimately broken by the regime’s ambitions.

Q: Some readers might find the narrative structure unconventional, as certain pivotal events are retold multiple times. What was the philosophy behind this stylistic choice?

A: The repetition isn’t accidental; it is the literal thesis of the book. History is a broken record. The exact systemic failures, abuses of power, and political manipulations we saw in the 1800s are playing out on our news feeds today.

By forcing the reader to witness the death of the elephant through several conflicting viewpoints, I am issuing a challenge. The reader may find it frustrating to read the same event repeated across a few chapters, but at the same time, so incredibly tolerant of history repeating its worst tragedies in our actual lives. The novel intends to question this tolerance.

Q: The book concludes with a fascinating, rather dark leap forward in time. What guided that final twist?

A: The final chapter jumps 50 years into the future, viewed through the eyes of an English traveller during the height of the colonial coffee plantation era. He witnesses locals performing gruelling acts of penance to appease the spirit of a deceased local chieftain—the man who had terrorised and exploited that very same village half a century prior.

The tragic paradox is that the oppressor had been elevated to a deity. Decades later, the descendants of his victims are praying for his spirit’s return, seemingly willing to trade their freedom for familiar tyranny. It speaks to a very painful human truth that we still see in modern politics: our habit of deifying and worshiping the very leaders who exploit us.

Q: Following the critical success of being shortlisted for the Swarna Pusthaka Awards, what can you share about your next literary venture?

A: Yes, I am actually putting the finishing touches on my second novel, which I hope to publish later this year. Chronologically, it revisits a similar historical era, allowing me to dig even deeper into the socio-political undercurrents of that time period through an entirely new lens.

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