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Little island , big flavours : Sri Lankan food finally gets its due

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By Zinara Rathnayake

When Kolamba first opened in 2019, many diners who walked into the charming eatery in central London’s Soho district weren’t familiar with Sri Lankan cuisine. They thought it was just like Indian food, says the restaurant’s co-founder, Aushi Meewella, who grew up in Sri Lanka.

“We felt Sri Lankan food was underrepresented in central London, so we wanted to bring the dishes we grew up on and missed when we moved away,” she tells CNN.

While Sri Lanka is India’s little neighbour, with only 22 million people, its food and culture are quite different.

And now, a new generation of Sri Lankan chefs and entrepreneurs across the world is shining the spotlight on their native cuisine, while embracing the country’s diverse culinary heritage.

Meewella credits tourism for the recent surge in interest and support for Sri Lankan food.

Although tourist arrivals were halted by a series of setbacks including a deadly Easter bomb attack, the Covid-19 pandemic, and, more recently, the country’s worst-ever economic crisis, Sri Lanka is back on the tourism radar, already tracking over 800,000 visitors in 2023 as of the first week of August. As Meewella explains it: “People visit, discover our diverse island, and try our food, which they realize is also delicious.”

Chef Dhayanie Williams, a contestant on “MasterChef Australia 2019,” says the rise of social media in the last decade and programs like Masterchef have also helped professional and home chefs promote Sri Lankan food in the international market.

“We’ve seen many participants stick to their roots and create authentic Sri Lankan dishes on these programs,” says the chef, who is known for the Sri Lankan crab curry and chicken curry she cooked on the show.

“This continuous online exposure makes people try out Sri Lankan food in restaurants.”

Diverse influences

Today, more and more Sri Lankan chefs across the world are championing Sri Lankan food while defying common misconceptions about the cuisine.

“It has helped change the global perception that Sri Lankan food is different from Indian food, and it’s not only a lot of curries paired with rice,” Williams says.

For example, despite sharing a name, Sri Lankan roti are smaller, thicker “discs” made of freshly grated coconut and rice flour, unlike the large Indian rotis, which are made of wheat.

Rice, coconut milk, native fruits, vegetables and seafood act as the building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Meewella explains that it draws inspiration from diverse ethnic cultures and the influences of the Dutch and Portuguese, who once ruled Sri Lanka.

At Kolamba, mains include mutton poriyal, a common preparation in the Tamil-populated northern region of Sri Lanka in which the meat is dry-fried with onions, green chili and lime. One popular dessert is watalappam, a coconut and palm jaggery custard prepared by Muslims to celebrate Eid.

Meewella points out that Sri Lankan cuisine is also heavily plant-based with many vegan options, which helps the cuisine stand out and resonate with global audiences. “This way of eating is not a fad for us,” she adds.

For centuries, Sri Lankans have made use of wild and organically-grown ingredients like jackfruit, water spinach and yams, blending them with spices and herbs, and frying and currying them to create dishes with unique flavors. Kolamba’s menu pays homage to these plant-based recipes with dishes like breadfruit curry cooked with coconut milk and raw green banana fried with grated coconut.

In Sri Lankan cooking, the white flesh of the coconut is grated and squeezed to prepare rich, creamy coconut milk, which thickens different vegetable and meat-based curries. Fresh coconut milk is also added to a morning smoothie-like drink called kola kenda, made with herbs and rice. During celebratory events like the New Year or the first day of a job, Sri Lankans also cook coconut milk with rice to prepare a creamy breakfast called kiribath.

“When I hosted brunches at home, I didn’t expect there would be an appetite for dishes like kiribath, but people fell in love with the flavours of my childhood,” says Sam Fore, a Sri Lankan-American chef based in Lexington, Kentucky. “Eventually, the demand got so great that I set up a tent behind a bar in town to start selling the food I was cooking.”

Within two years, Fore’s pop-up got nationwide attention for spotlighting simple recipes incorporating Sri Lankan elements. Now, Fore is ready to open her first restaurant in Lexington.

Spicy, sour, sweet

Although people assume that Sri Lankan food is spicy, it’s made up of many other spices and herbs besides chilli. Coriander seeds, black pepper, mustard seeds, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, curry leaves, pandan leaves and lemongrass are all used to flavour and scent dishes.

Spices are also roasted and ground together to make different types of curry powder, an essential flavouring agent.

These varied flavours of Sri Lankan cuisine apply well to common culinary techniques, Fore says.

For instance, she prepares fried chicken, a dish Americans are familiar with, but infuses it with the spices of Sri Lankan chicken curry, grinding and combining them with buttermilk to carry the flavours.

“I don’t dump the spices down in my dishes,” Fore says. “I try to honour the recipes passed down to me and introduce flavours to diners that appear unexpectedly, but in a way that makes them understand my point of view.”

Across the world, chefs like Fore aren’t shying away from using innovative approaches to introduce Sri Lankan cuisine.

At Nadodi, a Kuala Lumpur restaurant that serves elevated Sri Lankan and South Indian fare, Williams came across a dish called “Yesterday.” This dish was reminiscent of Sri Lankan diya bath or pazhaya soru kanji, a day-old rice soaked overnight in water and eaten with dried, cured chilies.

Nadodi serves it with fried dry fish and pickles, all layered in a mini clay pot. “The dish is authentic and awakens one’s memories through elevating flavours, and plating it in a sophisticated way,” Williams says.

In Zagreb, Croatia, Brian Senaratne, co-founder of the city’s popular Sri Lankan restaurant Curry Bowl, shares similar values.

“We preserve original flavours, but keep it simple,” he says. “Usually, when we (Sri Lankans) go to a restaurant, we order several curries and rice separately, and share it with the entire group, but we noticed that European diners each order a dish. So having 10-15 curry dishes on the menu will only make it very complicated.”

Instead, Senaratne simplified this decision-making process for his diners, most of whom are European and haven’t previously had Sri Lankan food, by introducing curry-based bowls that also look appealing.

The theatre of making some dishes also helps them stand out. Curry Bowl’s top seller is kotthu, a popular street food made by smashing roti with vegetables, eggs and meat on a metal grid with metal clamps, leading to a distinctive metal-on-metal sound.

“This was quite a show for the first-comers,” says Senaratne. “They hear the noise, come inside, and are completely amazed. We’ve had many people who try kotthu, hear about Sri Lanka from us and end up visiting Sri Lanka.”

As chefs and entrepreneurs across the world add their unique touches to native dishes, both Fore and Williams believe that interest in Sri Lankan food will continue to expand.

“As the cuisine grows, it’s going to take some creative applications of flavours like chili, lime and tamarind for a full crossover into the international palate,” Fore says. “It’s up to us as cooks to honour our roots while innovating for the future. I cannot wait for casual Sri Lankan food to become a nationwide craving across America.”

(BBC)



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Crafting catwalk elegance behind the scene

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By Zanita Careem

While the spotlight at Colombo Fashion Week shines brightly, dazzling couture and celebrated designers, the true heartbeat of the event often lies behind the curtains. Backstage is where creativity meets pressure, precision and passion, a world powered by hairstylists, makeup artists, dress designers, choroegraphers and production teams work tirelessly against the clock.

At Colombo Fashion Week, the spotlight may belong to designers, but just behind the runway lights, another story unfolds – one of precession, pace and transformative artistry.

At the heart of it all stands Ramani Fernando, the quiet force who has shaped the face of fashion in Sri Lanka for decades. Long before the first model takes her stride, Ramani Fernando and her team are already at work. Backstage is a flurry of motion, hair dryers humming, brushes sweeping, palettes opening and closing in rhythm. Yet amid the chaos there is a remarkable sense of order. That order is Ramani. For years, she has been the official hair and beauty partner of Colombo Fashion Week, curating looks that not only complement but elevate each designer’s vision. Whether it is sleek, pulled back aesthetic for a structured collection or wild textured volume for a more experimental line her work ensures that beauty becomes an extension of fashion.

The crew of CFW is more than a just a team comprising some of the country’s most skilled stylists and make up artistry. Many of them trained in her own academy, the crew operates under intense pressure with seamless co-ordination.

“A single show can demand dozens of looks in a matter of hours. Multiple designers each with a distinct creative direction, rely on the team to interpret and excute their vision and precision. Timing is everything. There are no second takes. Every strand of hour, every stroke of make up must be fearless before the model steps onto the runway. And yet what stands out is not finish , nor the speed, but the consistency said Ramani. Colombo Fashion Week has increasingly positioned itself on the global fashion map, and beauty plays a crucial role in that evolution. Each season, Ramani Fernando’s team introduces looks that are not only trends driven but often trend-setting within the local industry.

In the end, the curtain does not just hide preparation,it protects the chaos,creativity,and colloboration that make the final moment possible.

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Early diagnosis, better chances and stronger hope

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Senior Consultant Cancer Surgeon Dr Anuruddha Thewarapperuma

Senior Consultant Cancer Surgeon Dr Anuruddha Thewarapperuma on…


In a timely and though-provoking session held at Apeksha Hospital, Senior Consultant Cancer Surgeon Dr. Anuruddha Thewarapperuma addressed one of the most pressing health concerns facing modern society, the growing prevalence of cancers and the importance of early detection.

Speaking to the ‘ Sunday Island,’ Dr Anuruddha stressed that awareness and timely medical intervention continue to be the strongest weapon in the fight against cancer. In Sri Lanka many cancer patients still arrive at hospitals during the advanced stages of illness, but the role of awareness, early detection and compassionate medical care has never been more vital to most patients.

Speaking on the growing burden of cancer in Sr Lanka, Dr Anuruddha stressed that one of the biggest challenges we face is delayed diagnosis. Many patients first seek treatment from family doctors, or attempt to ignore symptoms, often believing they are a minor health issue. By the time they meet a specialist, the disease may already be in an advanced stage

Cancer is no longer a disease affecting the old, he explained. Today we see younger patients, as well, especially with breast cancer, colorectal cancer, and lung and oral cancer

Dr Thewarapperuma, who specialises in complex cancer surgeries, including breast, colorectal, pancreatic and lung cancers, highlighted that breast cancer remains one of the most common cancer among women in Sri Lanka. He urged women to undergo regular screenings and immediately seek medical advice if they notice unusual lumps, skin changes or discharges. Colorectal cancer, another rapidly rising concern, often begins with silent symptoms. He pointed out that warnings signs, such as changes in bowel habits, rectal bleeding, unexplained weight loss and persistent abdominal discomfort, should never be ignored. Lifestyle changes, unhealthy diets, and lack of excercise, are among the contributing factors behind the increasing numbers.

With Sri Lanka witnessing a steady rise in cases of breast cancer, colorectal lung and oral cancers, he noted many lives could be saved through routine screenings and greater public education. He said that we must not only be aware of medical facts but also on changing attitudes towards cancer.

He explained that fear, stigma and misinformation often prevent patients from seeking treatment early.

Cancer, detected early, can often be treated successfully, he emphasised, encouraging the public to pay attention to warning signs and prioritise regular health check-ups.

According to the veteran surgeon, the impact of modern lifestyles specially fast foods, smoking, dietary habits and environment influences are contributory factors. Many patients walk into my room frightened, not knowing what the future holds. Dr Thewarapperuma explained, some men and women worry about their children, some fear of losing thier identity, while others are terrified simply because of the word cancer itself. He stressed the emotional healing is just as important as medical treatment. Dr Thewarapperuma noted that not only the patient even families also experience emotional strain .

He said different cancers affect patients emotionally in different ways, yet fear and uncertainty remains common to all.

Speaking further on breast cancer, he said it remains one of the most common cancers affecting women worldwide and in Sri Lanka. Many women initially struggle with shock and insecurity. They are emotinally shattered, He maintained with early diagnosis and medical treatment many cancer patients go on to lead healthy and confident lives.

He always focussed on the fact that early detection and timely treatment are crucial in improving survival rates and ensuring better quality of life for the patient. Breast cancer can often be treated successfully if detected early, he noted. Women should never ignore changes in their breasts, even if there is no pain

He encouraged women to become familiar with their own bodies, through regular self examinations. Common warning signs are a lump, changes in breast shape or size,,nipple discharge, a lump under the arm are a few symptoms women should be aware of.

He noted awareness, education and regular screenings and mammograms continue to play a vital role in reducing risks and improving survival rates.

Dr Thewarapperum also highlighted the growing incidence of colon cancer which is becoming increasingly common in Sri Lanka, yet many people are unaware of its early warning signs. This cancer is common among middle aged and older adults.

Symptoms such as persistent abnominal pain, changes in bowel habits, unexplained weight loss, blood in stools and ongoing fatigue should never be ignored

According to the Senior Consultant, many patients delay in seeking medical attention; they panic only after the disease reaches an advanced stage.

Talking about oral cancers, it continues to be one of the most common cancers in Sri Lanka, largely due to lifestyle habits, such as smoking, betel chewing and excessive alcohol consumption.

Colon cancer, is more frequently diagnosed in individuals above the age of 50.

Nevertheless youngest individuals, with unhealthy lifestyle habits, are also increasingly at risk

Also speaking about lung cancers Dr Thewarapperuma said this cancer affects both men and women and remains one of the leading causes of cancer-related deaths.

He warned that even non-smokers are now at risk due to increasing exposure to harmful pollution.

According to him, many cancer patients seek medical attention, only at the advanced stage, because early symptoms are often overlooked by most people.

Despite these challenges, he expressed confidence in the advances made in cancer treatment in Sri lanka. Modern technology, improved surgical techniques,and multi disciplinary care have significantly improved patient outcomes and survival rates

However, delayed diagnosis among patients in Sr Lanka continues to remain one of the biggest challenges in cancer management.

Dr Anuruddha highlighted throughout our discussion the importance of early diagnosis significantly have higher success rates and better quality of life, after treatment.

Apeksha Hospital’s multi disciplinary approval to cancer management combining experienced consultants, advanced surgical procedures, diagnostic facilities and personalised patient care, has contributed positive treatment outcome across several common cancers including breast, colon, oral, lung and other cancers.

Dr Thewarapperuma explained that modern cancer care are not limited to surgery alone.

Timely screening, accurate diagnosis, coordinated specialist care and emotional support, all play a major role in successfull recovery.

“We at Apeksha Hospital continues to focus on patient centred treatments while creating awareness on prevention and early detection through educational programmes and medical discussions.

We remain committed to offer hope, confidence and quality healthcare to patients facing cancer diagnosis.

His message to the public was clear – awareness, early screening, and timely medical attention remains the strongest weapons in the fight against all kinds of cancer. He says cancer, when detected early, is no longer a battle that must be faced without hope and this disease is not the end of life either. Early detection saves lives and emotional strength gives patients the courage to continue their journey, said this well known Senior Consultant Cancer Surgeon. He is attached to several leading hospitals, including the istitute at Maharagama (Apeksha Hospital) and also Hemas and Asiri Surgical hospitals.

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A milestone of excellence

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From Left: Nawaz Rizmi (Assistant Manager – Operations), Sahan Madusanka (Group HR Manager), Sandra Krishanthy (Assistant Manager – Medical Operations), Dr Sarah Fazy (Managing Director & CEO), Dr Nalini Samararathna (Medical Officer), and Chamath Goonesinghe (Head of Marketing).

Dr Sarah Fazy, also known as Dr Cherry, recently marked a major professional milestone by recieving the ISO certification. It is more than a professional achievement – it is a statement of discipline, vision and modern excellence in aesthetic medicine.

360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics has achieved a significant milestone in its journey of clinical excellence and service innovation after being awarded the prestigious ISO 9001:2015 / SLS ISO 9001:2015 certification, reinforcing its position as one of Sri Lanka’s leading providers of cosmetic, aesthetic and wellness care.

Issued by the Sri Lanka Standards Institution (SLSI), the certificate of conformity recognises that 360 Wellness Centre (Pvt) Ltd., has successfully implemented a Quality Management System that meets the rigorous international standards of ISO 9001:2015, one of the world’s most respected benchmarks for quality assurance and continual improvement.

Founded by renowned cosmetic and aesthetic physician Dr Sarah Fazy, widely known as Dr Cherry, the 360 brand has built a reputation for combining medical expertise with personalised care, advanced technology and a strong commitment to client wellbeing. Over the years, the clinic has expanded its services while maintaining a steadfast focus on ethical practice, innovation and trusted results.

Commenting on the certification, Dr. Sarah Fazy, Founder of 360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics, said “This certification is a proud moment for our entire team and a reflection of the standards we strive to uphold every day. Quality care, patient safety and professional excellence have always been at the heart of our vision. Achieving ISO 9001:2015 recognition validates our commitment to delivering world-class services to every client who places their trust in us.”

Dr. Sarah Fazy receiving the ISO 9001:2015 certification

The achievement marks a new chapter for 360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics, ensuring that every treatment, consultation and customer interaction is guided by internationally recognised processes focused on consistency, safety, efficiency and patient satisfaction.

ISO 9001:2015 is a globally recognised framework developed by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO). It provides organisations with a structured model to enhance operational efficiency, maintain consistent service quality and continually improve customer experiences.

Dr. Sarah further stated, “At 360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics, we believe beauty and wellness should be approached with responsibility, precision and compassion. This milestone motivates us to continue raising the bar in aesthetic medicine and wellness care in Sri Lanka.”

For 360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics, the certification demonstrates its commitment to delivering dependable, high-quality services, maintaining robust quality control systems, continuously improving internal processes, ensuring transparency, accountability and professionalism, and prioritising patient safety and satisfaction.

The certification scope covers a broad portfolio of services, including medical and cosmetic skincare, haircare solutions, aesthetic consultations, facial treatments, cosmetic procedures, nail care, surgical enhancements and hair transplantation services.

This recognition provides customers with added confidence that they are receiving care aligned with internationally accepted standards, delivered by trained professionals using advanced techniques and modern technology.

Since its inception, 360 Skin Clinic has been driven by a mission to redefine beauty, wellness and self-care in Sri Lanka. What began as a visionary concept has evolved into a trusted brand supported by a multidisciplinary team of specialists dedicated to helping clients look and feel their best.

The clinic is known for conducting detailed consultations and personalised assessments to create bespoke treatment plans tailored to individual skincare and wellness goals. Its medical aesthetic team continues to invest in state-of-the-art technology and evidence-based treatments to remain at the forefront of the industry.

With the attainment of ISO 9001:2015 / SLS ISO 9001:2015 certification, 360 Skin Clinic & 360 Aesthetics strengthens its promise to deliver elevated care, trusted results and a standard of excellence clients can feel confident in.

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