Features

Culture Shock in Iraq

Published

2 years ago

2024/05/12

Thilina Walpola

At my first Food & Beverage Management meeting (I am in the grey suit) with team leaders

Part Two PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

First Impressions of Iraq

My first impressions of Iraq were positive. Upon arrival at Saddam International Airport, the opulence and modernity juxtaposed against the backdrop of a country rebuilding itself after a war. The warm reception and luxurious accommodations at Hotel Babylon Oberoi spoke volumes about the resilience and hospitality of the Iraqi people. The five-star standards of Hotel Babylon Oberoi, and facilities provided to my family at a corner suite facing Tigris River, were all positive. I was pleasantly surprised as these observations exceeded my expectations.

A tour of Baghdad for new managers of Hotel Babylon Oberoi arriving from Sri Lanka, during our second day, produced more pleasant surprises. A string of five-star hotels in Baghdad, managed by global hotel chains such as Sheraton, Le Meridien, Melia and Novotel, provided competition for Oberoi. Although wars always affect tourism negatively, wars also contribute to hotel revenues with new customers as military advisers from other countries, arm dealers, spies, mercenaries, international agencies, media representatives, reporters, journalists, etc. We were pleased to note that the best hotel in Baghdad was the 450-room Al Rasheed, and the best hotel outside Baghdad was the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a 262-room, five-star resort in Mosul overlooking the Tigris River. Both Al Rasheed and Nineveh Oberoi, were sister hotels of Hotel Babylon Oberoi.

The emergence of Iraq’s tourism and hospitality scene, with a plethora of international hotel chains vying for prominence, painted a picture of economic revitalization amidst the remnants of war. The three Oberoi hotels in Iraq managed a total of over 1,000 five-star rooms and Oberoi was the key player in re-building tourism in the post-war Iraq in 1989. Madan Misra, my boss, and the Oberoi Group (operator of 30 luxury hotels in six countries, with head office in New Delhi, India, founded in 1934), had good connections with the Iraqi government and the State Organization for Tourism in Iraq, which owned all hotels in the country.

Two of my Ceylon Hotel School colleagues, senior to me, worked at Al Rasheed. Nirmo Thambapillai was the Food & Beverage Manager for Banquet Operation, and Kamal Hapuwatte was the Training Manager. Another friend of mine (whom I met during an assignment at Muscat Sheraton in Oman in 1988 as the Guest Executive Chef for a Sri Lankan food festival), Priyantha Ratnasinghe, was the Assistant Financial Controller at Baghdad Sheraton. The camaraderie among colleagues from Sri Lanka added a comforting familiarity in an unfamiliar land. We met frequently during our free time.

When my wife and son joined me, they were warmly welcomed by everybody. My son, Marlon was only three years old and was the only child staying at the hotel. After he commenced going to the international school in Baghdad, every day when he returned from school, the staff inquired what he had learned. They often addressed Marlon and me as ‘Habibi’ (my dear or darling) and my wife as ‘Ainee’ (my eyes).

We soon realised that this type of loving terms are common in addressing each other in Iraq. People in Iraq are among the friendliest I have met during my travels to one hundred countries. After each welcoming handshake, most Iraqi men touched their chest expressing that the greetings came from heart. I loved that gesture so much, I practiced that from the time I settled down in Iraq, and in later years whenever I travelled to the Middle East for work and leisure.

The cultural diversity within Iraq, from the majority traditional Islamic customs to the cosmopolitan Christian communities, offered a multifaceted glimpse into the nation’s identity. Islam (approximately 55% Shia and 35% Sunni) was and still is the main religion in Iraq, and there was a Kurdish minority following the ancient religion Zoroastrianism. In 1989 most of the 1.5 million Christians (around 9% of the population) in Iraq lived in or around Baghdad.

They were far more westernized than other Iraqis. The Christian Iraqis generally provided good business to restaurants, bars, night clubs and casinos in Baghdad. The end of the war was also a period of celebration and enjoyment. It was good for the hotel and food and beverage businesses. I was surprised to see many beautiful Iraqi women dressed in western clothes and patronising the bars, night club and casino at Hotel Babylon Oberoi. Unfortunately, the Christian population in Iraq has shrunk to 1% of the current total national population of 47 million in 2024.

A get-together of Sri Lankan hoteliers in Baghdad, at my suite at Hotel Babylon Oberoi

Navigating Challenges

The transition from initial optimism to navigating cultural nuances brought forth unexpected challenges and a string of culture shocks in Iraq. From adapting to the ubiquity of firearms, to learning the rhythm of work interrupted by prayer times, each obstacle became a lesson in understanding and respect. I treated these challenges as opportunities to learn the local attitudes, aspirations, behaviour, beliefs, customs, and culture.

Violation of ‘No-Gun Policy’

A major culture shock for us was getting used to the fact that most men in Iraq openly carried firearms. During my orientation week, I was taken around Babylon Oberoi by Mohamed Abdullah, the Iraqi Human Resources Manager, and T. P. Singh (TP), Indian Assistant Food & Beverage Manager, who was my deputy. On seeing hundreds of numbered pigeon holes at the entrance to Githara Night Club, I inquired what they wee used for. “Acha! Mr. Jayawardena, those are for carefully storing surrendered guns by our patrons, until they leave the night club. As Iraqis have a habit of shooting their guns at air in celebration when happy and drunk, we have a no-gun policy at Githara,” TP explained. “We don’t want them to destroy our expensive Baccarat chandeliers imported from France,” he added with a cheeky smile.

When I asked him, “Do all our customers adhere to hotel’s no-gun policy at the night club?” he was honest in his answer: “All but one group – President Saddam Hussein’s eldest son Uday and his gang of murderous bodyguards, who come to Githara every Thursday night!” That warning reminded me that I was assigned the role of the duty manager every Thursday night till Githara closed around 4:00 am or until Uday Hussein was ready to leave.

Over-boiling in Kitchens

During my orientation in the kitchens, I was somewhat taken back to notice some kitchen staff not bothering to reduce flames in the hot kitchen during the prayer times. More religious employees simply stop work, irrespective of the stage of their cooking tasks, when the bells rang in the nearby mosques. It was an unwritten law that no one should give work directions to employees praying for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. Non-Islamic members of the kitchen brigade, diplomatically reduced fires gently to ensure there was no over-boiling and over-cooking during the prayer times. I quickly got used to that custom. It is essential that expatriates understand, accept, and respect local customs and culture, particularly relating to religion. They must also quickly learn to ensure that there are no interruptions to the flow of work and quality of products and services.

Being Kissed by Men

During my orientation, there was an important wedding at the hotel’s ballroom. The bride’s father was a minister in President Saddam Hussein’s cabinet, and we wanted to ensure that everything was handled exactly as requested by the minister. I showed up a few times at the banquet hall during thereception. Out of 500 invitees, about half were beautifully dressed women who all sat on one half of the hall. When they made a frequent loud and long, wavering, high-pitched vocal sound, I was baffled. Our Egyptian Banquet Manager, Altaf, realizing that it was a new experience for me, said: “Boss, that’s zaghārīt, an ululation to honour the new couple.”

The other half of the hall was occupied by males, most of whom smoked, and held a Misbaha (a string of 99 beads traditionally used during prayer). When the minister saw me he was in a happy mood. He hugged me and gave four kisses on my cheeks. I nearly pushed him away, but when Altaf quickly gestured me to reciprocate, I hugged the minister in return. After learning that men hugging each other is common in Iraq, I too became an expert at it. Understanding the importance of cultural sensitivity and adaptation is a key for success in a global career.

ithara Night Club at Hotel Babylon Oberoi

Removal of Saddam’s Twin Photograph

I was given a large office. My secretary was Fatima, a very polite young Iraqi lady with an office next to mine. My first impression of my office was that everything except my desk and chair were green, and there were two large, identical, black and white framed photographs of Saddam Hussein hung on two walls. I politely suggested: “Fatima, do you mind transferring one of these photos of His Excellency to another executive office?”

The rest of the day, I could not locate Fatima. She eventually returned after several hours later looking nervous and pale, and was speechless. When I inquired what happened to her, she signalled me to come out of the office, and whispered to me, “Mr. Jay, removal of a photograph of the President will be reported to the Baath party head office as a major insult and there will be serious repercussions to both you and me.” I immediately changed my mind and requested Fatima to forget about my suggestion and not to mention it to anyone. During my turn in Baghdad, every day I looked at those two large photographs. I got used to it and realised that Sadam Hussein was a handsome man.

Wire Tapped Offices

There were rumours among other expatriate managers that all our offices were wire tapped. On hearing that any discussion in any executive office of a hotel can be heard at the Baath party head office, I laughed saying that it can’t be true. However, I decided to be extra careful in the future. The undercurrent of surveillance and espionage added an element of intrigue to daily life, with the realization that conversations held within the confines of our offices might not be as private as initially assumed.

Al Rasheed Hotel in Baghdad

Spies at Apartments

When I asked TP about various plainclothed men keeping a close eye on hotel activities, but not acting as customers, I was surprised of his answer. “Acha! Mr. Jayawardena, those are secret police and at times, spies,” TP said in a relaxed tone. He had been in Iraq for a few years and knew the ropes. When I asked him whom they spy on, he said, “Us, the foreign managers.” Then he became a bit jovial, tapped on my shoulder in a friendly gesture, and said: “welcome to Baghdad, Mr. Jayawardena!” Soon I realised that there were spies everywhere. No one knew who was spying on whom. This was common in most countries led by iron-fisted dictators. The subtle yet persistent presence of secret police underscored the complexities of operating in a society under scrutiny.

Every week, Friday was my off day. Usually on Fridays my family went on full day outings or visited the Hapuwatte family living at the executive quarters of Al Rasheed Hotel. At their apartment we played cards, had a couple of drinks, had a home-cooked Sri Lankan meal, and spoke about our memorable Ceylon Hotel School years. On the first Friday we went out, when we returned, my wife said “Someone has been in our suite.

The books and magazines we left on the coffee table have been re-arranged! Can’t be housekeeping staff, as I have told them not to do cleaning work on Fridays.” On checking with the General Manager’s wife, we found out that it was the normal practice for Iraqi secret police to visit expatriate manager’s apartments when they are away and leave some clues to show us that they have visited! When my wife was upset about it, I told her: “Shani, don’t worry, unless we lost any of our belongings. When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”

Initial Optimism and Challenge in Iraq

Despite these challenges, I commenced my work optimistically. My senior team leaders in the food & beverage division agreed with me to organize regular food festivals, open new restaurants with exciting new menus, and do lots of training. I was able to motivate the team and win the support of our regular customers.

The collaborative spirit and innovative mindset fostered a sense of unity and purpose amidst uncertainty. Executive Chef O. P. Khantwal (OP) became my right-hand man while implementing our innovations for a new era. OP was a well-trained senior chef of the Oberoi Group and the first chef I worked with who had an MA degree qualification. OP knew the Oberoi culture very well and soon became a loyal advisor to me.

As my team was settling down and developing our new business plans, we were faced with a shocker. The bureaucracy and red tape in Iraq resulted in delays of the work permit process for new workers. We were asked by authorities to stop work until all work permit final approvals are received. As a result, we spent two unproductive weeks, without working. I decided to use that challenge as an opportunity to explore Iraq as a tourist.

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Features

Complexities in global politics deepen as economic pressures intensify

Published

7 hours ago

2026/08/27

Sahan Weerasooriya

UK Prime Minister Andy Burnham meets Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky in Kyiv. (BBC)

The present offer by the UK to strengthen Ukraine’s defense capabilities in the missile technology field in particular comes as ‘a stitch in time’ and the initiative is also likely to be appreciated considerably by democratic opinion world wide for the possible morale-boosting effect it would have on Ukraine. Besides continuous arms support, the conviction that the world’s frontline democracies are behind it would prove a huge plus in Ukraine’s eyes in its grinding fightback against the Russian invasion.

While continued US support for Ukraine could not be considered ‘a given’ any more, British Prime Minister Andy Burnham’s words during a recent visit to Kyiv that the UK would stand by Ukraine ‘for as long as it takes’ is the kind of assurance that Ukraine needs at present. For, the conflict in Ukraine is essentially a war of liberation conducted by the latter against an invader and deeply at issue here is the upholding of International Law and its foundational concepts, such as national sovereignty and a nation’s right to political self-determination. The world of democracy is of the firm view that the latter ideals cannot be compromised, come what may.

The UK has its work cut out in this connection. It would find it difficult to convince the Trump administration that it should staunchly stand by Ukraine but it could campaign vigorously with the rest of the West and the EU fold in particular to unflaggingly support the embattled and over-run country.

Ukraine has shown an impressive adeptness in using drone technology in particular against her enemy and has even manufactured her own hardware in this respect but using the relevant blueprints handed over by the UK for the manufacture of more sophisticated cruise missiles, for instance, may prove financially difficult, going forward. It is left to be seen whether the UK and the rest of the West who are with Ukraine will continue to be with her, considering their own rising financial constraints.

The latter impediments could only multiply in the future. Oil, gas and energy prices are on the rise and the latter costs are glaringly reflected in kitchens and meal tables the world over. As we go along consumer discontent would steadily intensify and governments, East and West, would need to figure out with considerable rigour and foresight how such disaffection could be ably managed. Failing which, in most democratic societies, the chances are that publics would be out on the streets demanding that their grievances be redressed forthwith.

These rising concerns are reflected in a recent move by some EU governments to consider imposing what is described as ‘a windfall tax’ on the profits specified major oil companies operating within their shores have made in the wake of the US-Israel war on Iran. The rationale apparently is to use such tax earnings to cushion the rising cost of living of their publics and bolster the respective countries’ social expenditure.

In a recent letter to the president of the EU Council the EU governments referred to said, among other things, while drawing attention to the ‘discontent that is growing over the rising cost of living’: ‘A common approach’ is needed that ‘ensures those who profit from the crisis contribute their share to reducing the burden on the general population.’ Meanwhile, Oxfam with reference to the above development is on record as calling for a ‘permanent windfall tax of at least 50% on profits exceeding a 10% return on investment.’

Such are the rising economic pressures on the majority of Western governments. The question to be posed is how consistent they would be in their assistance to Ukraine if they decide consensually to stand by her. The soaring cost of living in the West compels the conclusion that there could be no guarantee that Western assistance to Ukraine, particularly in the defense and security fields, would be of a longstanding kind.

Of particular concern would be the fact that the weapons systems on offer from the UK to Ukraine could be increasingly costly to manufacture going forward. Besides they would need to be manufactured and put into action without delay.

However, these considerations should in no way deflect Ukraine’s supporters from the principled policy stance of defending her to the extent possible. Because at issue is the defense of International Law and the democratic system of government from their enemies; fascism and authoritarian rule.

While during World Wars 1 and 2 the US was with the major democracies of the West, this time around with regard to Ukraine, the US has chosen to be at cross-purposes with them. For instance, in relation to tariff matters and defense expenditure, in the NATO context, the US is pursuing a hard line which puts it at polar opposites with the West. Thus it is no longer possible to talk unreservedly of a ‘Western democratic alliance’. Put plainly, the cause of democratic development has been weakened.

A measure of relief for the supporters of Ukraine in the West could come by way of the upcoming mid-term polls in the US. If the Democratic Party fares well in them the pressure would be on the Trump administration to defer to opposition opinion at home, accommodate the best interests of Ukraine in its West European policy and perhaps even work towards a diplomatic solution to the Ukraine crisis in cooperation with Russia. Accordingly, the Democratic Party would need to put the Trump administration on the defensive, so to speak.

Until such time Ukraine’s Western supporters have no choice but to remain committed to it, ensure its steadfast defense against the invasion and work judiciously towards keeping the economic pressures at home in check.

Interestingly, at the present juncture in international politics the US could be said to be more weak than strong. For example, it has to some extent been militarily humbled by Iran; so much so it is resorting to economic means to keep Iran in check.

In keeping with this strategy, the US has launched ‘a new big wave of anti-Iran economic sanctions’ at the time of writing, aimed at cutting Iran away from all its major income sources. Some of these relate to digital assets, technology, gold, aviation and shipping. The hoped for result is the complete severance of Iran from the US dollar system.

However, while the UK and EU have no choice but to adhere to their policy of backing Ukraine, going forward they would need to dialogue more closely with the US and ensure that it cooperates with them on outstanding questions, such as Ukraine and the strengthening of democracy. The well being of the world is served when the latter aim is pursued.

Features

“Envisioning Sri Lanka: Beyond Recovery”

Published

7 hours ago

2026/08/27

Sahan Weerasooriya

Prime Minister Dr. Harini Amarasuriya opening the event

OPA 39th Annual Conference calls for Sri Lanka to move Beyond Recovery towards Sustainable Transformation

The Orgnisation of Professional Associations (OPA) successfully concluded its 39th Annual Conference, held recently at the Cinnamon Grand Colombo, under the theme “Envisioning Sri Lanka: Beyond Recovery”.

Held under the patronage of Jayantha Gallehewa, President of the OPA, with the leadership and guidance of Tisara De Silva, President-Elect and Chairman of the 39th Annual Conference, the Conference brought together leading professionals, academics, business leaders and representatives of the public and private sectors to deliberate on Sri Lanka’s next phase of national development.

The Inaugural Session, on August 2026, was graced by Prime Minister Dr. Harini Amarasuriya, as the Chief Guest; Andrew Patrick, British High Commissioner to Sri Lanka, as the Guest of Honour; and Murtaza Jafferjee, Chairman of the Advocata Institute, Sri Lanka, as the Keynote Speaker.

In her address, Prime Minister Dr. Harini Amarasuriya emphasised that overcoming the economic crisis alone should not be Sri Lanka’s ultimate objective, stressing that recovery must serve as the foundation for a broader economic and institutional transformation necessary for sustainable national progress. Reflecting on the difficult period experienced by the country, the Prime Minister noted that Sri Lanka had faced significant economic, social and institutional challenges, which had weakened public confidence and created uncertainty about the country’s future.

She stressed that “recovery only provides the foundation” and that Sri Lanka can move forward sustainably only by using that foundation to bring about meaningful transformation.

The Prime Minister observed that the theme of the OPA’s 39th Annual Conference, “Envisioning Sri Lanka: Beyond Recovery,” aptly encapsulated these national aspirations. She emphasised that Sri Lanka’s objective should not merely be to return to the conditions that existed before the crisis, but to forge a stronger national foundation characterised by robust institutions, a resilient economy, high-quality public services and an enabling environment in which every citizen has the opportunity to thrive.

She further underscored that Sri Lanka’s future development cannot be secured through economic growth and physical development alone. She emphasised that the effective mobilisation of the country’s knowledge, skills and professional expertise, is equally essential to achieving sustainable and inclusive national progress

The Technical Sessions held on 12 August 2026 brought together 19 distinguished experts and professionals representing academia, industry, banking and finance, public health, technology, management and business leadership. Their diverse expertise provided a multidisciplinary platform to examine the critical challenges, emerging opportunities and strategic choices that will shape Sri Lanka’s next phase of development, with particular emphasis on economic transformation, institutional strengthening, digitalisation, private-sector growth, human capital and sustainable development.

The deliberations were structured around four principal sub-themes: “Resilient Recovery and Sustainable Economic Development”; “Future Readiness: Innovation & Transformation”; “Policy for Impact: Advancing Equity, Sustainable Living, and National Well-Being”; and “Leadership, Governance and National Responsibility.”

Across these thematic areas, the sessions explored the structural reforms, institutional requirements and policy choices necessary to move Sri Lanka beyond economic stabilisation towards a more productive, competitive, resilient and inclusive economy. The discussions brought together diverse professional perspectives, enabling participants to examine national priorities through economic, technological, industrial, financial, social and governance lenses.

Particular emphasis was placed on the need to move beyond the diagnosis of problems towards pragmatic, evidence-based and implementable solutions. The deliberations recognised that sustainable national progress requires not only sound policies, but also effective institutions, professional competence, innovation, responsible leadership and the capacity to translate policy into tangible outcomes.

The sessions further underscored the importance of collaboration across sectors, recognising that Sri Lanka’s complex development challenges cannot be addressed in isolation. Stronger engagement among Government, private sector, professional associations, academia and civil society was identified as essential to fostering a coherent national response and ensuring that professional knowledge and expertise are effectively translated into policy and action.

Collectively, the Technical Sessions provided a substantive platform for knowledge exchange, critical reflection and forward-looking dialogue, reinforcing the OPA’s commitment to bringing the country’s professional expertise to bear on the task of building a resilient, innovative, equitable and prosperous Sri Lanka.

The OPA expressed its sincere appreciation to Prime Minister Dr. Harini Amarasuriya, the Chief Guest; Andrew Patrick, British High Commissioner to Sri Lanka and Guest of Honour; and Murtaza Jafferjee, Chairman of the Advocata Institute, Sri Lanka and Keynote Speaker, for their distinguished contributions to the Conference.

Much of what the 39th Annual Conference achieved would not have been possible without the leadership, commitment and generous contributions of Jayantha Gallehewa, President of the OPA; Tisara De Silva, President-Elect and Chairman of the 39th Annual Conference; Eng. Ravi Rupasinghe, General Secretary; Dharshana Wijemanne, Treasurer; Bhanu Wijayaratne, Convener & the Chairman of the Session Planning Committee of the 39th Annual Conference Committee, Past Presidents and Office Bearers; Presidents and representatives of Member Associations; members of the Executive Councils and General Forum; and the distinguished Session Chairmen, Resource Persons and professionals who shared their time, expertise and insights in pursuit of the Conference’s shared vision. The OPA remains immensely grateful to all those whose collective contributions enriched the 39th Annual Conference and strengthened its role as a meaningful platform for professional exchange, informed dialogue and national reflection.

Features

Nostalgia for Lankans in Toronto …

Published

7 hours ago

2026/08/27

Sahan Weerasooriya

‘Avurudu Musical Show 2027,’ a uniquely styled musical Avurudu celebration … Ceymphony Band style.

For Sri Lankans living 14,000 kilometres from home, the sound of home has never felt closer — and that’s thanks to one man and his band.

Since stepping into the spotlight, Gamini Hemalal and the Ceymphony Band have turned into the heartbeat of the Sri Lankan community in Toronto.

Their mission is simple: bring the music, bring the memories, bring the people together. And it’s working.

What turned out to be the talk-of-the-town was their intimate musical evening with Sri Lanka’s legendary crooner Sohan Weerasinghe.

Sohan Weerasinghe: Had
everyone on their feet at the
Angus Glen Golf Club, in
Toronto, Canada

It was a ‘full house’ long before the big date. Tickets vanished within days — demand was that overwhelming.

According to those who were there, it was a truly amazing evening. The hall was packed, the energy electric. Sohan didn’t just sing — he owned the stage.

With his velvet vocals, his charm, and that signature style, he had everyone on their feet. The ladies, especially, couldn’t get enough. No wonder they call him “The Ladies’ Man!”

One attendee summed it up perfectly:

“We had so much fun. It is truly a blessing to have our kids around us, enjoying these beautiful moments together. Thank you, Gamini Hemalal, for such a wonderful evening, with an amazing crowd and an incredible atmosphere. Your hard work and dedication truly made it a special night.

“We also need to say a big thank you to the Ceymphony Band for delivering such an outstanding performance. You all were absolutely amazing! Our entire family had a fantastic time, and we truly enjoyed every moment.

Ceymphony Band: Extremely popular in the scene in Toronto

“Wishing you all continued success. Keep up the amazing work, we can’t wait for the next.”

And the next is already on the cards: ‘Halloween Pissu Baila Party 2026,’ on Friday, 30th October, at the famous Angus Glen Golf Club.

Gamini promises a crazy night of baila, music, dancing and Halloween vibes with the Ceymphony Band. Action runs from 8:00 PM to 12:00 midnight, with plenty of prizes to be won.

Gamini Hemalal: Amazing work for the Sri Lankan community,
in Toronto, Canada

Gamini is also putting together a special event, connected with the 2027 Avurudu celebrations — ‘Avurudu Musical Show 2027,’ a uniquely styled musical Avurudu celebration … Ceymphony Band style.

It’s scheduled to be held on Saturday, 10th April, 2027, also at the Angus Glen Golf Club.

Through music, Gamini Hemalal and Ceymphony are doing what diaspora bands do best — they’re shrinking the distance between two worlds.

One baila beat at a time, one full house at a time, they’re making sure that even in Canada, Sri Lankans feel like home.

Yes, there is plenty of action, indeed, for the Sri Lankan community in Toronto, Canada.