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A Tourist in Iraq

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The Iraq Museum in Baghdad

Part Three PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

When the 52 new recruits of Hotel Babylon Oberoi found themselves at a standstill, awaiting the final nod on their work permits, disappointment hung heavy in the air. The unforeseen two-week delay cast a shadow of uncertainty over our heads. Yet, rather than succumbing to frustration, I saw it as an opportunity—an unexpected window to explore the wonders of Iraq.

As we awaited bureaucratic clearance, I resolved to seize this hiatus as a chance to immerse myself in the rich tapestry of Iraqi culture. Having traversed much of the European Union, delved into Eastern Europe, wandered through Asia, and ventured into Africa briefly, the Middle East beckoned as the next chapter in my global odyssey. And what better place to begin than the vibrant heart of Baghdad?

With a thirst for knowledge and a hunger for adventure, I set out to uncover the layers of history and tradition that have shaped this land, despite its recent years of isolation due to conflict. It was time to embrace the warmth of Iraqi hospitality, delve into its ancient heritage, and unravel the mysteries hidden within its bustling streets and beyond…

Baghdad’s Treasures

Venturing beyond the confines of our hotel, we encountered an initial obstacle. A group of stern-faced police officers halted our progress, reminding us of the restricted zones that barred non-Iraqis. Undeterred, we quickly learned to navigate the city’s streets via taxi, ensuring our excursions continued unhindered.

Our curiosity led us to Baghdad’s renowned mosques, each a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Yet, it was the allure of the national museum that truly captivated our interest. En route, our taxi driver insisted on a brief detour through the storied lanes of old Baghdad.

Al-Mutanabbi Street unfolded before us, a testament to centuries of literary legacy. Named after the revered 10th-century poet, Abul Tayeb al-Mutanabbi, the thoroughfare exuded an aura of historical significance. At its entrance stood an arch embellished with verses from the poet’s timeless works. An imposing bronze statue of al-Mutanabbi surveyed the flowing waters of the Tigris River which had influenced civilization throughout the known history of humanity.

Al-Mutanabbi’s literary prowess remains unmatched in the annals of Arabic literature. His verses, though often lauding the rulers of his era, bear testament to his sharp intellect and unparalleled wit. Through his poetry, he explored the intricacies of life’s philosophy, extolled the valour revered by Arab poets, and vividly depicted the tumultuous battles of his time. Yet, amidst the grandeur of his epic compositions, his verses also resonated with romance, adorned with exquisite similes and metaphors that continue to enrapture readers to this day. He says in one of his poems:

“The watchmen are not worried about the persons who visit you in the darkness because you are so beautiful and shining that you radiate in the darkness and anybody who meets you in the darkness is seen by your radiance. My beloved is very beautiful, and a very beautiful fragrance of musk is always emitted from her body as if she is made of musk. She is bright like the sun.”

The Iraq Museum nestles within the heart of Baghdad and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Mesopotamian civilization. Here, amid the echoes of ancient glory, the narrative of humanity’s journey unfolds amidst the relics of empires long past.

Inscribed upon the walls of this venerable institution is a history marked not only by triumphs and achievements but also by the sombre shadows of conflict and turmoil. Wars, with their crimson tide, have often marred the landscape where once peace, doves, and flowers flourished.

The museum’s history traces back to the aftermath of World War I, when European and American archaeologists embarked on expeditions that unearthed the treasures of Mesopotamia. In 1926, the Baghdad Archaeological Museum opened its doors, heralding the dawn of a new era in cultural preservation. By 1966, its expansive collection found a grand abode in the Al-Salihiyyah District, evolving into the renowned Iraq Museum. Within its hallowed halls reside the marvels of Babylonian, Sumerian, and Assyrian civilizations, alongside precious Islamic manuscripts, each whispering tales of bygone epochs.

The Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s forced its closure, compelling curators to safeguard its treasures from the ravages of conflict. Emerging unscathed, albeit sombre, it reopened its doors to a world hungry for knowledge and enlightenment, during the time I lived in Baghdad.

Marlon and I opening Our Art Gallery

However, long after my time in Iraq, the dawn of the new millennium brought forth a harrowing chapter in the history of this museum. The looting that ensued during the chaos of the 2003 invasion stirred the echoes of ancient lamentations, as priceless artifacts vanished into the annals of uncertainty. Though the extent of the loss remains a subject of debate, the scars of that tumultuous period linger as a reminder of the fragility of our shared heritage.

As there were no signs of our work permits arriving, I suggested to a few of my colleagues, “let’s explore Babylon tomorrow,” but only a handful joined as others were pre-occupied with anxiety over the work permit challenge.

An Excursion in Babylon

Our quest for the ancient marvels of Babylon commenced with the break of dawn. Venturing some 100 kilometres south of Baghdad, we found ourselves amidst the remnants of a once-majestic civilization, nestled alongside the modern city of Al-Ḥillah. Babylon, an epitome of antiquity, stood proudly upon the banks of the Hilla branch of the Euphrates River, surrounded by a verdant expanse nourished by the waters of the Hilla canal.

Dating back to around 2,000 BCE, Babylon bore witness to the ebb and flow of empires across millennia. Under the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, its splendour reached unparalleled heights. His legacy, immortalized in the annals of history, adorned the city with three opulent palaces, resplendent in blue and yellow glazed tiles. The grandeur of Babylon, the city inside the walls occupied an area of 200 square miles encompassing an area roughly equivalent to modern-day Chicago, stood as a testament to human ingenuity and ambition, 4,000 years prior to our time.

A festival in Mosul in 1989

Yet, the passage of time had not been kind to Babylon. Centuries of upheaval and plunder had stripped it of many treasures, smuggled away by European hands long ago. Under Saddam Hussein’s rule, efforts were made to resurrect the ancient city, albeit with mixed success.

The Ishtar Gate is central to Babylon’s allure, a marvel of ancient engineering and artistry. The Ishtar Gate was the eighth gate and the main entrance to the inner city of Babylon. Adorned with vibrant depictions of gods and goddesses, it stood as the portal to the city’s grand Processional Way, a path steeped in religious significance during the annual New Year celebrations. Lined with walls showing about 120 lions, bulls, dragons, and flowers on yellow and black glazed bricks, it symbolized the goddess Ishtar. Around the dawn of the twentieth century, excavations by German archaeologists had unearthed remnants of the gate.

King Nebuchadnezzar II also built several shrines, the largest of which, called Esagil, was dedicated to Marduk. The shrine stood 280 feet tall, nearly the size of a 26-story office building. Similarly elusive were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, revered as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Despite extensive searches, their precise location and existence remained shrouded in mystery. I was happy that the famous rooftop bar at Hotel Babylon Oberoi – ‘Hanging Gardens’ came within my portfolio.

Al-Mutanabbi Statue in Baghdad

The Lion of Babylon was among the few tangible relics of Babylon’s past, a stone sculpture dating back over 3,600 years. Carved from black basalt and weighing a staggering 7,000 kilograms, it depicted a Mesopotamian lion in a provocative pose above a supine human figure. The postures of the lion and human strongly suggest that they are having sexual intercourse. The statue is considered among the most important symbols of Babylon and Mesopotamian art in general. Rich in symbolism and heritage, the statue stood as a testament to Babylon’s enduring legacy, revered as a national symbol of Iraq.

As we immersed ourselves in the echoes of antiquity, the allure of Babylon’s storied past enveloped us. Amidst the ruins and relics, we glimpsed fragments of a civilization lost to time, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit across the ages. And as we retraced our steps back to Baghdad, the legacy of Babylon lingered in our hearts, a reminder of the enduring power of history to captivate and be inspired.

Exploring Northern Iraq

With work permits still pending, I found myself embarking on a journey to Mosul, Iraq’s second-largest city (with a population of 700,000 in 1989, and 1.8 million in 2024), under the directions of Madan Misra, the astute General Manager. Situated some 400 kilometres north of Baghdad along the banks of the Tigris River, Mosul held a storied past as the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh, once the world’s largest metropolis.

Mosul is the major city in Northern Iraq. In 1989, Mosul stood as a vibrant cultural hub, blending historical richness with modern vitality. Its strategic location has long made it a nexus of trade and travel, with the majestic Mosul Dam serving as a testament to its enduring significance. The city’s annual spring events drew crowds from far and wide, infusing its streets with a palpable energy.

Returning from Mosul, my boss Misra, ever the discerning leader, sought my insights into the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a five-star hotel he oversaw. “Mr. Jayawardena, I must use your suggestions, wisely. You are new here and your eyes are fresh. Give me all details!”, he pushed me when I spoke diplomatically and gave him an edited version of my observations. Impressed with my extended feedback, Misra entrusted me with a new task: to evaluate a neglected resort hotel in Dokan, nestled near the Iranian border. He was eager to capitalize on potential opportunities for Oberoi business expansion in Iraq.

Although two hotels I managed in the past as General Manager – The Lodge and The Village at Habarana were not internationally branded, Misra knew that those were two of the largest and the best resort hotels in Sri Lanka. “Mr. Jayawardena, you are the only person in my team in Iraq who had been a hotel General Manager. Therefore, I am going to pick your brains from time to time!” I was pleased to hear that from my boss.

Embarking on the scenic journey northward towards Dokan, we marvelled at the diversity of the landscape. We paused for a refreshing dip at a lake and a sumptuous Kurdish lunch in Kirkuk, a city renowned for its multicultural tapestry. It is now identified as the ‘Jerusalem of Kurdistan’. Arriving in Dokan, we were greeted by the serene beauty of its surroundings, enhanced by the sparkling expanse of the Dokan Lake.

Marlon and I having a quick lake dip

Marlon and I having a quick lake dip

Despite its natural allure, the resort in Dokan itself fell short of Oberoi standards, requiring substantial investment to meet the luxury benchmarks upheld by the brand. In my detailed report to Misra, I advised against Oberoi’s involvement in managing that property, recognizing the need for alignment with the company’s esteemed reputation and vision.

Re-commencing Painting

On returning to Baghdad, we were now counting nine days without formal work permits. I did not want to waste any time just idling. I decided to focus on an old hobby of mine – visual arts. At one point when I was 17-years old I displayed promise as a painter and a sculptor. My parents (who were both artists) and I discussed the option of my joining Heywood Art School in Ceylon (now the University of the Visual and Performing Arts) and becoming a professional painter and a sculptor. Instead, I joined Ceylon Hotel School and became a hotelier. However, back in my mind, I always wanted one day to become a semi-professional visual artist (which I am now).

In the mid-1980s, I took some private lessons from a veteran painter, Stanley Abeysinghe, who was a Past Principal of Heywood Art School, and a friend of my father. In Baghdad I started doing small paintings and encouraged my son, Marlon, to paint with me, as my father did, when I was Marlon’s age. After a few days, we had produced around twenty small abstract paintings on paper. Ignoring my wife’s annoyance, Marlon and I decorated a wall in our family suite with those paintings. Marlon called that wall, ‘Our Art Gallery’, and proudly encouraged any visitor to our suit to enjoy our artwork, and comment.

Finally, Allowed to Work

After 14 days of ‘no work’, we received the good news. Work permits for all 52 hotel employees who came from Sri Lanka had been approved by the Iraqi authorities. We were happy about it, and I was even more happy about the two ‘work-free’ weeks which allowed us to explore Iraq as tourists.

I immediately called a management meeting of my division and recommenced implementing our business plans, with my team. “Let’s create and promote a series of international food festivals with themes preferred by our Iraqi customers,” I motivated the team. We agreed to create a buzz and present food festivals and entertainment that Baghdad had never experienced before at a five-star hotel…



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Sri Lanka’s new govt.: Early promise, growing concerns

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President Anura Kumara Dissanayake’s demeanour, body language, and speaking style appear to have changed noticeably in recent weeks, a visible sign of embarrassment. The most likely reason is a stark contradiction between what he once publicly criticised and analysed so forcefully, and what his government is actually doing today. His own recent speeches seem to reflect that contradiction, sometimes coming across as confused and inconsistent. This is becoming widely known, not just through social media, YouTube, and television discussions, but also through speeches on the floor of Parliament itself.

Doing exactly what the previous government did

What is now becoming clear is that instead of doing things the way the President promised, his government is simply carrying on with what the previous administration, particularly Ranil Wickremesinghe’s government, was already doing. Critically, some of the most senior positions in the state, positions that demand the most experienced and capable officers, are being filled by people who are loyal to the JVP/NPP party but lack the relevant qualifications and track record.

Such politically motivated appointments have already taken place across various government ministries, some state corporations, the Central Bank, the Treasury, and at multiple levels of the public service. There have also been forced resignations, bans on resignations, and transfers of officials.

What makes this particularly serious is that President Dissanayake has had to come to Parliament repeatedly to defend and “clean up” the reputations of officials he himself appointed. This looks, at times, like a painful and almost theatrical exercise.

The coal procurement scandal, and a laughable inquiry

The controversy around the country’s coal power supply has now clearly exposed a massive disaster: shady tenders, damage to the Norochcholai power plant, rising electricity bills due to increased diesel use to compensate, a shortage of diesel, higher diesel prices, and serious environmental damage. This is a wide and well-documented catastrophe.

Yet, when a commission was appointed to investigate, the government announced it would look into events going back to 2009, which many have called an absurd joke, clearly designed to deflect blame rather than find answers.

The Treasury scandal, 10 suspicious transactions

At the Treasury, what was initially presented as a single transaction, is alleged to involve 10 transactions, and it is plainly a case of fraud. A genuine mistake might happen once or twice. As one commentator said sarcastically, “If a mistake can happen 10 times, it must be a very talented hand.” These explanations are being treated as pure comedy.

Attempts to justify all of this have sometimes turned threatening. A speech made on May 1st by Tilvin Silva is a case in point, crude and menacing in tone.

Is the government losing its grip?

Former Minister Patali Champika has said the government is now suffering from a phobia of loss of power, meaning it is struggling to govern effectively. Other commentators have noted that the NPP/JVP may have taken on a burden too heavy to carry. Political cartoons have depicted the NPP’s crown loaded with coal, financial irregularities, and political appointments, bending under the weight.

The problem with appointing loyalists over qualified professionals

Appointing own supporters to senior positions is not itself unusual in politics. But it becomes a betrayal of public trust when those appointed lack the basic qualifications or relevant experience for the roles they are given.

A clear example is the appointment of the Treasury Secretary, someone who was visible at virtually every NPP election campaign event, but whose qualifications and exposure/experiences may not match the demands of such a critical position. Even if someone has a doctorate or professorship, the key question is whether those qualifications are relevant to the role, and whether that person has the experience/exposure to lead a team of seasoned professionals.

By contrast, even someone without formal academic credentials can succeed if they have the right skills and surround themselves with advisors with relevant exposure. The real failure is when loyalty to a political party overrides all other considerations, that is a fundamental betrayal of responsibility.

The problem is not unique to this government. In 2015, the appointment of Arjuna Mahendran as Central Bank Governor was a similar blunder. His tenure ended in scandal involving insider dealing and bond market manipulation. However, in that case, the funds involved were frozen and later confiscated by the following government, however legally questionable that process was.

The current Treasury losses, by contrast, may be unrecoverable. Critics say getting that money back would be next to impossible.

The broader damage: Demoralisation of capable officials

When loyalists are placed above competent career officials in key positions, it demoralises the best public servants. Some begin to comply in fear; others lose motivation entirely. The professional hierarchy breaks down. Junior officials start looking over their shoulders instead of doing their jobs. This collective dysfunction is ultimately what destroys governments.

Sri Lanka’s pattern: every government falls

This pattern is deeply familiar in Sri Lankan history. The SWRD Bandaranaike government, which swept to power in 1956 on a wave of popular support, had declined badly by 1959. The coalition government, which came to power reducing the opposition to eight seats, lost in 1977, and, in turn, the UNP, which came in on a landslide, in 1977, crushing the SLFP to just eight seats, suffered a similar fate by 1994.

Mahinda Rajapaksa came to power in 2005 by the narrowest of margins, in part because the LTTE manipulated the Northern vote against Ranil Wickremesinghe. But he was re-elected in 2010 on the strength of ending the war against the LTTE. Still, by 2015, he was voted out, because the benefits of winning the war were never truly delivered to ordinary people, and because large-scale corruption had taken root in the meantime. Gotabaya Rajapaksa didn’t even last long enough to see his term end.

Now, this government, too, is showing early signs of the same decline.

The ideological contradiction at the heart of the NPP

There is another challenge: though the JVP presents itself as a left-wing, Marxist-socialist party, many of those who joined the broader NPP coalition, businesspeople, academics, professionals, do not hold such ideological views. Balancing a left-leaning party with a centre-right coalition is extremely difficult. The inevitable tension between the two pulls the government in opposite directions.

The silver lining, however, is that this has produced a growing class of “floating voters”, people not permanently tied to any party, and that is actually healthy for democracy. It keeps governments accountable. Independent election commissions and civil society organisations have a major role to play in informing these voters objectively.

In more developed democracies, voters receive detailed candidate profiles and well-researched information alongside their ballot papers, including, for example, independent expert analyses of referendum questions like drug legalisation. Sri Lanka is still far from that standard. Here, many people vote the same way as their parents. In other countries, five family members might each vote differently without it being a scandal.

Three key ministries, under the President himself, all in trouble

President Dissanayake currently holds three of the most powerful portfolios himself: Defence, Digital Technology, and Finance. All three are now widely seen as performing poorly. Many commentators say the President has “failed” visibly in all three areas. The justifications offered for these failures have themselves become confused, contradictory, and, at times, just plain pitiable.

The overall picture is one of a government that looks helpless, reduced to making excuses and whining from the podium.

A cautious hope for recovery

There are still nearly three years left in this government’s term. There is time to course-correct, if they act quickly. We sincerely hope the government manages to shed this sense of helplessness and confusion, and finds a way to truly serve the country.

(The writer, a senior Chartered Accountant and professional banker, is Professor at SLIIT, Malabe. The views and opinions expressed in this article are personal.)

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Cricket and the National Interest

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The appointment of former minister Eran Wickremaratne to chair the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee is significant for more than the future of cricket. It signals a possible shift in the culture of governance even as it offers Sri Lankan cricket a fighting possibility to get out of the doldrums of failure. There have been glorious patches for the national cricket team since the epochal 1996 World Cup triumph. But these patches of brightness have been few and far between and virtually non-existent over the past decade. At the centre of this disaster has been the failures of governance within Sri Lanka Cricket which are not unlike the larger failures of governance within the country itself. The appointment of a new reform oriented committee therefore carries significance beyond cricket. It reflects the wider challenge facing the country which is to restore trust in public institutions for better management.

The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne brings a professional administrator with a proven track record into the cricket arena. He has several strengths that many of his immediate predecessors lacked. Before the ascent of the present government leadership to positions of power, Eran Wickremaratne was among the handful of government ministers who did not have allegations of corruption attached to their names. His reputation for financial professionalism and integrity has remained intact over many years in public life. With him in the Cricket Transformation Committee are also respected former cricketers Kumar Sangakkara, Roshan Mahanama and Sidath Wettimuny together with professionals from legal and business backgrounds. They have been tasked with introducing structural reforms and improving transparency and accountability within cricket administration.

A second reason for this appointment to be significant is that this is possibly the first occasion on which the NPP government has reached out to someone associated with the opposition to obtain assistance in an area of national importance. The commitment to bipartisanship has been a constant demand from politically non-partisan civic groups and political analysts. They have voiced the opinion that the government needs to be more inclusive in its choice of appointments to decision making authorities. The NPP government’s practice so far has largely been to limit appointments to those within the ruling party or those considered loyalists even at the cost of proven expertise. The government’s decision in this case therefore marks a potentially important departure.

National Interest

There are areas of public life where national interest should transcend party divisions and cricket, beloved of the people, is one of them. Sri Lanka cannot afford to continue treating every institution as an arena for political competition when institutions themselves are in crisis and public confidence has become fragile. It is therefore unfortunate that when the government has moved positively in the direction of drawing on expertise from outside its own ranks there should be a negative response from sections of the opposition. This is indicative of the absence of a culture of bipartisanship even on issues that concern the national interest. The SJB, of which the newly appointed cricket committee chairman was a member objected on the grounds that politicians should not hold positions in sports administration and asked him to resign from the party. There is a need to recognise the distinction between partisan political control and the temporary use of experienced administrators to carry out reform and institutional restructuring. In other countries those in politics often join academia and civil society on a temporary basis and vice versa.

More disturbing has been the insidious campaign carried out against the new cricket committee and its chairman on the grounds of religious affiliation. This is an unacceptable denial of the reality that Sri Lanka is a plural, multi ethnic and multi religious society. The interim committee reflects this diversity to a reasonable extent. The country’s long history of ethnic conflict should have taught all political actors the dangers of mobilising communal prejudice for short term political gain. Sri Lanka paid a very heavy price for decades of mistrust and division. It would be tragic if even cricket administration became another arena for communal suspicion and hostility. The present government represents an important departure from the sectarian rhetoric that was employed by previous governments. They have repeatedly pledged to protect the equal rights of all citizens and not permit discrimination or extremism in any form.

The recent international peace march in Sri Lanka led by the Venerable Bhikkhu Thich Paññākāra from Vietnam with its message of loving kindness and mindfulness to all resonated strongly with the masses of people as seen by the crowds who thronged the roadsides to obtain blessings and show respect. This message stands in contrast to the sectarian resentment manifested by those who seek to use the cricket appointments as a weapon to attack the government at the present time. The challenges before the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee parallel the larger challenges before the government in developing the national economy and respecting ethnic and religious diversity. Plugging the leaks and restoring systems will take time and effort. It cannot be done overnight and it cannot succeed without public patience and support.

New Recognition

There is also a need for realism. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee does not guarantee success. Reforming deeply flawed institutions is always difficult. Besides, Sri Lanka is a small country with a relatively small population compared to many other cricket playing nations. It is also a country still recovering from the economic breakdown of 2022 which pushed the majority of people into hardship and severely weakened public institutions. The country continues to face unprecedented challenges including the damage caused by Cyclone Ditwah and the wider global economic uncertainties linked to conflict in the Middle East. Under these difficult circumstances Sri Lanka has fewer resources than many larger countries to devote to both cricket and economic development.

When resources are scarce they cannot be wasted through corruption or incompetence. Drawing upon the strengths of all those who are competent for the tasks at hand regardless of party affiliation or ethnic or religious identity is necessary if improvement is to come sooner rather than later. The burden of rebuilding the country cannot rest only on the government. The crisis facing the country is too deep for any single party or government to solve alone. National recovery requires capable individuals from across society and from different sectors such as business and civil society to work together in areas where the national interest transcends party politics. There is also a responsibility on opposition political parties to support initiatives that are politically neutral and genuinely in the national interest. Not every issue needs to become a partisan battle.

Sri Lanka cricket occupies a special place in the national consciousness. At its best it once united the country and gave Sri Lankans a sense of pride and international recognition. Restoring integrity and professionalism to cricket administration can therefore become part of the larger task of national renewal. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee, while it does not guarantee success, is a sign that the political leadership and people of the country may be beginning to mature in their approach to governance. In recognising the need for competence, integrity and bipartisan cooperation and extending it beyond cricket into other areas of national life, Sri Lanka may find the way towards more stable and successful governance..

by Jehan Perera

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From Dhaka to Sri Lanka, three wheels that drive our economies

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Court vacation this year came with an unexpected lesson, not from a courtroom but from the streets of Dhaka — a city that moves, quite literally, on three wheels.

Above the traffic, a modern metro line glides past concrete pillars and crowded rooftops. It is efficient, clean and frequently cited as a symbol of progress in Bangladesh. For a visitor from Sri Lanka, it inevitably brings to mind our own abandoned light rail plans — a project debated, politicised and ultimately set aside.

But Dhaka’s real story is not in the air. It is on the ground.

Beneath the elevated tracks, the streets belong to three-wheelers. Known locally as CNGs, they cluster at junctions, line the edges of markets and pour into narrow roads that larger vehicles avoid. Even with a functioning rail system, these three-wheelers remain the city’s most dependable form of everyday transport.

Within hours of arriving, their importance becomes obvious. The train may take you across the city, but the journey does not end there. The last mile — often the most complicated part — belongs entirely to the three-wheeler. It is the vehicle that gets you home, to a meeting or simply through streets that no bus route properly serves.

There is a rhythm to using them. A destination is mentioned, a price is suggested and a brief negotiation follows. Then the ride begins, edging into traffic that feels permanently compressed. Drivers move with instinct, adjusting routes and squeezing through gaps with a confidence built over years.

It is not polished. But it works.

And that is where the comparison with Sri Lanka becomes less about what we lack and more about what we already have.

Back home, the three-wheeler has long been part of daily life — so familiar that it is often discussed only in terms of its problems. There are frequent complaints about fares, refusals or the absence of meters. More recently, the industry itself has become entangled in politics — from fuel subsidies to regulatory debates, from election-time promises to periodic crackdowns.

In that process, the conversation has shifted. The three-wheeler is often treated as a problem to be managed, rather than a service to be strengthened.

Yet, seen through the experience of Dhaka, Sri Lanka’s system begins to look far more settled — and, in many ways, ahead.

There is a growing structure in place. Meters, while not perfect, are widely recognised. Ride-hailing apps have added transparency and reduced uncertainty for passengers. There are clearer expectations on both sides — driver and commuter alike. Even small details, such as designated parking areas in parts of Colombo or the increasing standard of vehicles, point to an industry slowly moving towards professionalism.

Just as importantly, there is a human element that remains intact.

In Sri Lanka, a three-wheeler ride is rarely just a transaction. Drivers talk. They offer directions, comment on the day’s news, or share local knowledge. The ride becomes part of the social fabric, not just a means of getting from one point to another.

In Dhaka, the scale of the city leaves less room for that. The interaction is quicker, more direct, shaped by urgency. The service is essential, but it is under constant pressure.

What stands out, across both countries, is that the three-wheeler is not a temporary or outdated mode of transport. It is a necessity in dense, fast-growing Asian cities — one that fills gaps no rail or bus system can fully address.

Large infrastructure projects, like light rail, are important. They bring efficiency and long-term capacity. But they cannot replace the flexibility of a three-wheeler. They cannot reach into narrow streets, respond instantly to demand or provide that crucial last-mile connection.

That is why, even in a city that has invested heavily in modern rail, Dhaka still runs on three wheels.

For Sri Lanka, the lesson is not simply about what could have been built, but about what should be better managed and valued.

The three-wheeler industry does not need to be politicised at every turn. It needs steady regulation — clear fare systems, proper licensing, safety standards — alongside encouragement and recognition. It needs to be seen as part of the solution to urban transport, not as a side issue.

Because for thousands of drivers, it is a livelihood. And for millions of passengers, it is the most immediate and reliable form of mobility.

The tuk-tuk may not feature in grand policy speeches or infrastructure blueprints. It does not run on elevated tracks or attract international attention. But on the ground, where daily life unfolds, it continues to do what larger systems often struggle to do — show up, adapt and keep moving.

And after watching Dhaka’s streets — crowded, relentless, yet functioning — that small, three-wheeled vehicle feels less like something to argue over and more like something to get right.

(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law with over a decade of experience specialising in civil law, a former Board Member of the Office of Missing Persons and a former Legal Director of the Central Cultural Fund. He holds an LLM in International Business Law)

 

by Sampath Perera recently in Dhaka, Bangladesh 

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