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A Tourist in Iraq

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The Iraq Museum in Baghdad

Part Three PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

When the 52 new recruits of Hotel Babylon Oberoi found themselves at a standstill, awaiting the final nod on their work permits, disappointment hung heavy in the air. The unforeseen two-week delay cast a shadow of uncertainty over our heads. Yet, rather than succumbing to frustration, I saw it as an opportunity—an unexpected window to explore the wonders of Iraq.

As we awaited bureaucratic clearance, I resolved to seize this hiatus as a chance to immerse myself in the rich tapestry of Iraqi culture. Having traversed much of the European Union, delved into Eastern Europe, wandered through Asia, and ventured into Africa briefly, the Middle East beckoned as the next chapter in my global odyssey. And what better place to begin than the vibrant heart of Baghdad?

With a thirst for knowledge and a hunger for adventure, I set out to uncover the layers of history and tradition that have shaped this land, despite its recent years of isolation due to conflict. It was time to embrace the warmth of Iraqi hospitality, delve into its ancient heritage, and unravel the mysteries hidden within its bustling streets and beyond…

Baghdad’s Treasures

Venturing beyond the confines of our hotel, we encountered an initial obstacle. A group of stern-faced police officers halted our progress, reminding us of the restricted zones that barred non-Iraqis. Undeterred, we quickly learned to navigate the city’s streets via taxi, ensuring our excursions continued unhindered.

Our curiosity led us to Baghdad’s renowned mosques, each a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Yet, it was the allure of the national museum that truly captivated our interest. En route, our taxi driver insisted on a brief detour through the storied lanes of old Baghdad.

Al-Mutanabbi Street unfolded before us, a testament to centuries of literary legacy. Named after the revered 10th-century poet, Abul Tayeb al-Mutanabbi, the thoroughfare exuded an aura of historical significance. At its entrance stood an arch embellished with verses from the poet’s timeless works. An imposing bronze statue of al-Mutanabbi surveyed the flowing waters of the Tigris River which had influenced civilization throughout the known history of humanity.

Al-Mutanabbi’s literary prowess remains unmatched in the annals of Arabic literature. His verses, though often lauding the rulers of his era, bear testament to his sharp intellect and unparalleled wit. Through his poetry, he explored the intricacies of life’s philosophy, extolled the valour revered by Arab poets, and vividly depicted the tumultuous battles of his time. Yet, amidst the grandeur of his epic compositions, his verses also resonated with romance, adorned with exquisite similes and metaphors that continue to enrapture readers to this day. He says in one of his poems:

“The watchmen are not worried about the persons who visit you in the darkness because you are so beautiful and shining that you radiate in the darkness and anybody who meets you in the darkness is seen by your radiance. My beloved is very beautiful, and a very beautiful fragrance of musk is always emitted from her body as if she is made of musk. She is bright like the sun.”

The Iraq Museum nestles within the heart of Baghdad and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Mesopotamian civilization. Here, amid the echoes of ancient glory, the narrative of humanity’s journey unfolds amidst the relics of empires long past.

Inscribed upon the walls of this venerable institution is a history marked not only by triumphs and achievements but also by the sombre shadows of conflict and turmoil. Wars, with their crimson tide, have often marred the landscape where once peace, doves, and flowers flourished.

The museum’s history traces back to the aftermath of World War I, when European and American archaeologists embarked on expeditions that unearthed the treasures of Mesopotamia. In 1926, the Baghdad Archaeological Museum opened its doors, heralding the dawn of a new era in cultural preservation. By 1966, its expansive collection found a grand abode in the Al-Salihiyyah District, evolving into the renowned Iraq Museum. Within its hallowed halls reside the marvels of Babylonian, Sumerian, and Assyrian civilizations, alongside precious Islamic manuscripts, each whispering tales of bygone epochs.

The Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s forced its closure, compelling curators to safeguard its treasures from the ravages of conflict. Emerging unscathed, albeit sombre, it reopened its doors to a world hungry for knowledge and enlightenment, during the time I lived in Baghdad.

Marlon and I opening Our Art Gallery

However, long after my time in Iraq, the dawn of the new millennium brought forth a harrowing chapter in the history of this museum. The looting that ensued during the chaos of the 2003 invasion stirred the echoes of ancient lamentations, as priceless artifacts vanished into the annals of uncertainty. Though the extent of the loss remains a subject of debate, the scars of that tumultuous period linger as a reminder of the fragility of our shared heritage.

As there were no signs of our work permits arriving, I suggested to a few of my colleagues, “let’s explore Babylon tomorrow,” but only a handful joined as others were pre-occupied with anxiety over the work permit challenge.

An Excursion in Babylon

Our quest for the ancient marvels of Babylon commenced with the break of dawn. Venturing some 100 kilometres south of Baghdad, we found ourselves amidst the remnants of a once-majestic civilization, nestled alongside the modern city of Al-Ḥillah. Babylon, an epitome of antiquity, stood proudly upon the banks of the Hilla branch of the Euphrates River, surrounded by a verdant expanse nourished by the waters of the Hilla canal.

Dating back to around 2,000 BCE, Babylon bore witness to the ebb and flow of empires across millennia. Under the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, its splendour reached unparalleled heights. His legacy, immortalized in the annals of history, adorned the city with three opulent palaces, resplendent in blue and yellow glazed tiles. The grandeur of Babylon, the city inside the walls occupied an area of 200 square miles encompassing an area roughly equivalent to modern-day Chicago, stood as a testament to human ingenuity and ambition, 4,000 years prior to our time.

A festival in Mosul in 1989

Yet, the passage of time had not been kind to Babylon. Centuries of upheaval and plunder had stripped it of many treasures, smuggled away by European hands long ago. Under Saddam Hussein’s rule, efforts were made to resurrect the ancient city, albeit with mixed success.

The Ishtar Gate is central to Babylon’s allure, a marvel of ancient engineering and artistry. The Ishtar Gate was the eighth gate and the main entrance to the inner city of Babylon. Adorned with vibrant depictions of gods and goddesses, it stood as the portal to the city’s grand Processional Way, a path steeped in religious significance during the annual New Year celebrations. Lined with walls showing about 120 lions, bulls, dragons, and flowers on yellow and black glazed bricks, it symbolized the goddess Ishtar. Around the dawn of the twentieth century, excavations by German archaeologists had unearthed remnants of the gate.

King Nebuchadnezzar II also built several shrines, the largest of which, called Esagil, was dedicated to Marduk. The shrine stood 280 feet tall, nearly the size of a 26-story office building. Similarly elusive were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, revered as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Despite extensive searches, their precise location and existence remained shrouded in mystery. I was happy that the famous rooftop bar at Hotel Babylon Oberoi – ‘Hanging Gardens’ came within my portfolio.

Al-Mutanabbi Statue in Baghdad

The Lion of Babylon was among the few tangible relics of Babylon’s past, a stone sculpture dating back over 3,600 years. Carved from black basalt and weighing a staggering 7,000 kilograms, it depicted a Mesopotamian lion in a provocative pose above a supine human figure. The postures of the lion and human strongly suggest that they are having sexual intercourse. The statue is considered among the most important symbols of Babylon and Mesopotamian art in general. Rich in symbolism and heritage, the statue stood as a testament to Babylon’s enduring legacy, revered as a national symbol of Iraq.

As we immersed ourselves in the echoes of antiquity, the allure of Babylon’s storied past enveloped us. Amidst the ruins and relics, we glimpsed fragments of a civilization lost to time, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit across the ages. And as we retraced our steps back to Baghdad, the legacy of Babylon lingered in our hearts, a reminder of the enduring power of history to captivate and be inspired.

Exploring Northern Iraq

With work permits still pending, I found myself embarking on a journey to Mosul, Iraq’s second-largest city (with a population of 700,000 in 1989, and 1.8 million in 2024), under the directions of Madan Misra, the astute General Manager. Situated some 400 kilometres north of Baghdad along the banks of the Tigris River, Mosul held a storied past as the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh, once the world’s largest metropolis.

Mosul is the major city in Northern Iraq. In 1989, Mosul stood as a vibrant cultural hub, blending historical richness with modern vitality. Its strategic location has long made it a nexus of trade and travel, with the majestic Mosul Dam serving as a testament to its enduring significance. The city’s annual spring events drew crowds from far and wide, infusing its streets with a palpable energy.

Returning from Mosul, my boss Misra, ever the discerning leader, sought my insights into the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a five-star hotel he oversaw. “Mr. Jayawardena, I must use your suggestions, wisely. You are new here and your eyes are fresh. Give me all details!”, he pushed me when I spoke diplomatically and gave him an edited version of my observations. Impressed with my extended feedback, Misra entrusted me with a new task: to evaluate a neglected resort hotel in Dokan, nestled near the Iranian border. He was eager to capitalize on potential opportunities for Oberoi business expansion in Iraq.

Although two hotels I managed in the past as General Manager – The Lodge and The Village at Habarana were not internationally branded, Misra knew that those were two of the largest and the best resort hotels in Sri Lanka. “Mr. Jayawardena, you are the only person in my team in Iraq who had been a hotel General Manager. Therefore, I am going to pick your brains from time to time!” I was pleased to hear that from my boss.

Embarking on the scenic journey northward towards Dokan, we marvelled at the diversity of the landscape. We paused for a refreshing dip at a lake and a sumptuous Kurdish lunch in Kirkuk, a city renowned for its multicultural tapestry. It is now identified as the ‘Jerusalem of Kurdistan’. Arriving in Dokan, we were greeted by the serene beauty of its surroundings, enhanced by the sparkling expanse of the Dokan Lake.

Marlon and I having a quick lake dip

Marlon and I having a quick lake dip

Despite its natural allure, the resort in Dokan itself fell short of Oberoi standards, requiring substantial investment to meet the luxury benchmarks upheld by the brand. In my detailed report to Misra, I advised against Oberoi’s involvement in managing that property, recognizing the need for alignment with the company’s esteemed reputation and vision.

Re-commencing Painting

On returning to Baghdad, we were now counting nine days without formal work permits. I did not want to waste any time just idling. I decided to focus on an old hobby of mine – visual arts. At one point when I was 17-years old I displayed promise as a painter and a sculptor. My parents (who were both artists) and I discussed the option of my joining Heywood Art School in Ceylon (now the University of the Visual and Performing Arts) and becoming a professional painter and a sculptor. Instead, I joined Ceylon Hotel School and became a hotelier. However, back in my mind, I always wanted one day to become a semi-professional visual artist (which I am now).

In the mid-1980s, I took some private lessons from a veteran painter, Stanley Abeysinghe, who was a Past Principal of Heywood Art School, and a friend of my father. In Baghdad I started doing small paintings and encouraged my son, Marlon, to paint with me, as my father did, when I was Marlon’s age. After a few days, we had produced around twenty small abstract paintings on paper. Ignoring my wife’s annoyance, Marlon and I decorated a wall in our family suite with those paintings. Marlon called that wall, ‘Our Art Gallery’, and proudly encouraged any visitor to our suit to enjoy our artwork, and comment.

Finally, Allowed to Work

After 14 days of ‘no work’, we received the good news. Work permits for all 52 hotel employees who came from Sri Lanka had been approved by the Iraqi authorities. We were happy about it, and I was even more happy about the two ‘work-free’ weeks which allowed us to explore Iraq as tourists.

I immediately called a management meeting of my division and recommenced implementing our business plans, with my team. “Let’s create and promote a series of international food festivals with themes preferred by our Iraqi customers,” I motivated the team. We agreed to create a buzz and present food festivals and entertainment that Baghdad had never experienced before at a five-star hotel…



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‘The devil is in the details’ in West Asian peace

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President Donald Trump at the current G7 summit in France. Evelyn Hockstein/Getty Image

It is obviously too early for an outpouring of joy over the seeming cessation of hostilities between the main antagonists in West Asia. While the prospect of there being a measure of calm in the region is being welcomed by considerable sections of the international community, what is ‘on the table’ currently is only a Memorandum of Understanding between the US and Iran to give peace a chance. The hard part in the peace effort remains to be achieved.

In the Middle East of today we have one of the most complex conflicts to break out in modern international politics and the observer would be naive in the extreme to expect a facile and early closure to the tangle. Yet, for the sake of the world’s publics who have been hurting badly in the prolonged hostilities one could only hope that the US-Iran MoU that is expected to be signed by the sides on Friday would lead eventually to a substantive peace. The world’s thanks are due to Pakistan in this connection for its sustained support in the peace drive.

While the sides have agreed to a ceasing of hostilities in the most general terms and have reached accord on the facilitation of uninterrupted oil and gas supplies to the rest of the world, for instance, the ‘devil will prove to be in the details’ in an envisaged comprehensive peace settlement. It is these details that would make or break peace if the negotiations go on in earnest.

Nevertheless, the details would need to be worked out consensually in a spirit of compromise with an eye to the greater good of the world community. Realpolitik or a narrow focus on solely the national interest among the protagonists, for example, would need to give way to a measure of humanity that would encompass within it a consideration of the overall well being of the world. In other words, it is statesmanship that would crucially matter.

The next few weeks would establish whether humanists are ‘asking for far too much’ when they broach the questions at issue in these terms. Yet it is essentially self interest and national security considerations of the first importance that drove the conflict from even prior to February this year and these questions would need to be taken up and resolved to the satisfaction of the US and Iran in the main if some headway is to be made towards a durable settlement.

The nuclear issue would prove to be the proverbial Gordian Knot. From a realistic viewpoint, Iran could not be expected to be without a potential nuclear deterrent in the face of perceived nuclear threats emanating for it from the West and Israel. In the short term, Iran would need to possess this deterrent to a measure, within a mutually agreed international legal framework maybe, until wide agreement is reached on the nuclear tangle. Specifically, Iran’s immediate threat perceptions with regard to her nuclear-powered rivals would need to be defused during initial negotiations.

Ideally it is a world free of nuclear weapons that must be aimed at but since this goal cannot be achieved in the near or medium terms, unfolding negotiations would need to ensure Iran’s absolute security in a world of powers that continue to swear by the nuclear deterrent, if it is to give up the suspected latter capability.

However, it is to the degree to which the present nuclear powers divest themselves of this capability that Iran could be put at ease on this score. Accordingly, it is nothing short of a complete elimination of nuclear weapons from the world that could dissuade keenly security conscious states from developing nuclear weapons of their own with a mass destruction capability.

This is the number one dilemma the international community needs to grapple with going forward and it is to the extent to which it resolves it that a nuclear weapons free world could be envisaged. No doubt, an uphill challenge.

Compelling Israel to support the present negotiatory process constitutes another grueling challenge for the US. Currently the Iranian position essentially is that a Middle East peace is inseparable from a normalization of the security situation in Lebanon. That is, the present Israeli attacks on the Hezbollah presence in Lebanon must cease if a comprehensive peace is to be realized in West Asia.

However, Israel is showing no signs of drawing back from its attacks on Hezbollah strongholds in Lebanon since the security of the Israeli state is being seen as threatened by the militant group. Co-opting Israel into the negotiatory effort therefore would turn out to be a matter of paramount concern for the US.

Moreover, elements in the rightist administration in Israel are seeing the current peace efforts as a ‘sell out’ to the enemies of Israel. They would have none of it. It is left to be seen how the US would be managing these virtual storm centres in the diplomatic process that could very well bring down the overall purported peace drive.

A recent pronouncement by US Vice President J.D. Vance points to yet another problem area in the US’ current peace overtures. He said that, ‘Regional peace and stability includes stopping the funding of terrorist organizations.’ He was obviously referring to the support extended by Iran to Hezbollah when he mentioned ‘terrorist organizations’ but he has given fresh life to the age-old conundrum of ‘Who is a terrorist?’ by these words.

To the Netanyahu government the Hezbollah and other militant organizations fighting Israel are ‘terrorists’ but from the viewpoint of the Iranian regime they are ‘freedom fighters’. This seemingly insurmountable definitional issue would not only stubbornly bedevil the peace effort but could even figure in bringing about its collapse, unless judiciously handled.

Thus, it’s the thorny details that need to be watched to keep the West Asian peace process afloat, once it gets going in earnest. There is no doubt that US President Trump would be receiving a considerable amount of support from the G7 in this historic peace undertaking and his personal appeals to the grouping currently meeting in France for continuous support are likely to elicit a positive response from it.

Likewise, Trump would need to appeal to also the BRICS countries if almost total global support is to be garnered for the peace drive in West Asia. BRICS’ solidarity with the US and the West is likely to carry considerable weight with Iran and other Eastern actors who are key to a sustained peace drive in the Middle East.

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Sri Lanka’s elephant paradox: Govt. counts tourism dollars while playing a dangerous numbers game: Expert

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At a time when Sri Lanka is enjoying a resurgence in wildlife tourism, with elephants remaining the undisputed stars of the country’s national parks and one of its most marketable natural assets, elephant conservationist Supun Lahiru Prakash has sounded a stark warning: the nation is in danger of losing the very species that helps attract millions of tourism dollars while sustaining some of the island’s most important ecosystems.

Supun says repeated claims by authorities that Sri Lanka’s elephant population is increasing, despite the absence of a final survey report and amid continuing elephant deaths, risk creating a misleading narrative that could undermine conservation efforts and encourage retaliation against elephants.

According to Supun, the issue is not merely about numbers. It is about political priorities, scientific credibility and the future of one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic species.

“Repeatedly claiming that the elephant population is increasing appears to be an attempt to hide the Government’s inability to manage the rising annual elephant death rate and the complications of human-elephant conflict,” Supun said.

For decades, the Sri Lankan elephant has been a symbol of the country’s rich natural heritage. It is the centrepiece of wildlife tourism, drawing visitors from across the globe to national parks such as Yala, Udawalawe, Minneriya, Kaudulla and Wilpattu. International wildlife documentaries, tourism campaigns and social media promotions frequently place elephants at the heart of Sri Lanka’s nature tourism brand.

Yet, according to Supun, the country’s conservation policies do not reflect the value of the species.

“On one hand, the Government is enjoying increasing tourism revenue, and elephants remain one of Sri Lanka’s most important wildlife attractions. On the other hand, narratives are being promoted that could encourage retaliation against the very species that contributes significantly to the country’s tourism industry,” Supun said.

According to the First Countrywide National Survey of Elephants conducted in 2011, Sri Lanka had 5,879 elephants. However, official statistics show that 4,167 elephants died between 2012 and 2024.

Supun stressed that these figures represent only the deaths officially recorded by the Department of Wildlife Conservation.

“In a context where more than 70 percent of the country’s elephant population reported in 2011 has died within 13 years, it is difficult to accept claims that the population has increased,” Supun said.

The conservationist pointed out that elephants have the longest gestation period among land mammals and that scientific studies have reported increasing interbirth intervals among female elephants together with high calf mortality.

“When such biological realities are taken into consideration, claims of a dramatic increase in elephant numbers become difficult to understand,” Supun said.

Supun believes that repeated references to increasing elephant populations risk fuelling public hostility towards elephants, particularly among farming communities already affected by crop raids and property damage.

“Such claims can create the impression that elephant populations are exploding and thereby promote retaliation against elephants as well,” Supun said.

According to Supun, Sri Lanka’s elephant crisis cannot be understood solely through population estimates. The real issue lies in the country’s failure to address human-elephant conflict through long-term, science-based solutions.

Sri Lanka continues to record among the highest levels of human-elephant conflict in the world. Every year, hundreds of elephants and dozens of people lose their lives as competition for land and resources intensifies.

Despite the scale of the crisis, Supun says authorities continue to rely on strategies that have repeatedly failed.

Lahiru Prakash

These include driving elephants into protected areas, strengthening electric fences to confine them there and allocating additional manpower to maintain fencing systems.

Supun was also critical of several proposals that emerged from district-level discussions on conflict mitigation, including the sowing of paddy and corn using Air Force drones and the planting of fruit orchards within protected areas.

“Such proposals fail to address the real ecological and social dimensions of the conflict,” Supun said.

While welcoming reports that the Government intends appointing a national-level mechanism to tackle human-elephant conflict, Supun said the challenge required intervention at the highest level of government.

“Given the gravity, complexity and geographical spread of human-elephant conflict, appointing any committee other than a Presidential Task Force is not useful,” Supun said.

He argued that a Presidential Task Force chaired by either the President or the Secretary to the President would be better positioned to overcome the bureaucratic delays and institutional fragmentation that have hindered previous efforts.

Supun also stressed the urgent need to restore and protect elephant corridors and home ranges that allow elephants to move safely across landscapes.

He cited the Koholankala elephant corridor in Hambantota as one example where removing obstacles could help reduce conflict while improving habitat connectivity.

At the same time, Supun questioned policies that permit the allocation of forest lands in areas identified by environmental assessments as crucial elephant ranges and movement corridors.

“The opening of elephant corridors and the protection of elephant home ranges must be carried out scientifically and consistently if they are to succeed,” Supun said.

Beyond tourism, Supun emphasised the ecological importance of elephants.

“Elephants are ecosystem engineers. Through their feeding habits and movements, they help maintain habitats that support numerous other species. In many ways, they create safer and healthier environments for wildlife,” Supun said.

According to Supun, protecting elephants means protecting entire ecosystems and the biodiversity upon which Sri Lanka’s wildlife tourism industry depends.

“By protecting elephants, we are also protecting the biodiversity that makes Sri Lanka one of the world’s premier wildlife tourism destinations,” Supun said.

As Sri Lanka seeks to expand tourism earnings and strengthen its reputation as a wildlife destination, Supun believes the country faces a defining choice: continue with policies that have failed to stem elephant deaths and human-elephant conflict, or embrace a science-based conservation strategy that safeguards both people and wildlife.

Without a fundamental shift in policy and political will, Supun warned, Sri Lanka risks losing not only one of its most iconic species but also the ecological and economic benefits that elephants continue to provide.

“The suffering of both farmers and elephants will only intensify unless meaningful action replaces rhetoric,” Supun said.

 

By Ifham Nizam

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Top Model of the World 2026

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Back-to-back victory for Colombia

Katherine Castaño of Colombia claimed the Top Model of the World 2026 crown, securing a historic back-to-back victory for her country. Angelica Sanchez of Puerto Rico was named first runner-up, and Eunice Deza of the Philippines finished as second runner-up.

Katherine was crowned by outgoing titleholder Natalia Garizabal Vera of Colombia.

Several special category awards, and subsidiary titles, were also presented during the Top Model of the World 2026 pageant.

These awards recognised excellence in modelling, peer support, and regional representation.

Primary Subsidiary Titles

Sri Lanka’s Netalie Withanage: Top 16 at
the grand finale

Miss Globe 2026: Valentina Tabares (Ecuador) — Awarded to the contestant who perfectly balances fashion modelling with traditional beauty queen qualities.

Queen of Europe 2026: Mia Danielle Williams (United Kingdom) — Given to the highest-ranking candidate from a European nation.

Special Awards Recognition

Audience Iconic Award: Charly (Dominican Republic) — Won via the official public online vote, granting her a fast-track direct entry into the Top 6.

Exotic Model of the World: Angel Emeka (Nigeria) — Awarded for exceptional editorial presence and strong runway performance.

Best Body Award: Thailand — Voted directly by fellow contestants at the Flow Spectrum Hotel. The highest-ranking runners-up for this category included Zambia, South Africa, Colombia, and Ghana.

Angelica Sanchez (Puerto Rico): 1st Runner-up

Final Placement

Winner: Katherine Castaño (Colombia)

1st Runner-Up: Angelica Sanchez (Puerto Rico)

2nd Runner-Up: Eunice Deza (Philippines)

Top 6 Finalists: Included contestants from the Dominican Republic, Romania, and Germany.

The pageant, known for focusing on professional modelling careers over just beauty, brought together 36 models from around the globe for two weeks of runway, photoshoots, and cultural events.

Sri Lanka’s Netalie Withanage walked among 36 of the world’s best and powered her way into the Top 16 at the grand finale.

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