Features
From Violent Colombo to Peaceful Baghdad
1.PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER
Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
Independent Sri Lanka has faced several disruptions over many decades. Despite short-lived ceasefires and the government’s attempts to encourage extremists to enter peaceful elections, by the late 1980s the government of Sri Lanka was fighting two wars – the LTTE civil war and the second wave of JVP insurgency. Stakeholders of tourism and hospitality industries continued to be resilient. However, by the late 1980s, the situation had deteriorated significantly, casting a shadow of uncertainty over the country’s future. My birth place Colombo had become a violent city with frequent deadly bomb explosions and killings.
In 1989, amidst the turmoil, I found myself at a crossroads in my career journey. As the Director of Food & Beverage at Le Meridien in Colombo, I harboured ambitions beyond the confines of familiarity. Guided by the belief that true growth lies beyond comfort zones, I sought opportunities on the global stage. That was uncommon for a hotelier from a developing country at that time.
Under the mentorship of Jean-Pierre Kaspar, the former General Manager of Le Meridien in Colombo, I envisioned a trajectory that transcended geographical boundaries. With his guidance, I embarked on a path of professional development, honing my skills in diverse settings from Singapore to Paris and London, laying the groundwork for my aspirations.
However, as I shared my ambitions with the new General Manager of Le Galadari Meridien Hotel, Paul Finnegan, I encountered unforeseen obstacles. Despite my eagerness to explore opportunities abroad, the prevailing circumstances constrained my options. Undeterred by setbacks, I resolved to forge ahead in pursuit of my global aspirations, bidding farewell to Le Meridien and Sri Lanka in search of new avenues aligned with my ambitious global career.
Then General Manager of Hotel Lanka Oberoi, Kawal Nain introduced me to Madan Mishra, Vice President for Oberoi in Iraq, and Regional Vice President & General Manager of Hotel Babylon Oberoi in Baghdad. Nain gave me a glowing recommendation. After the formal interview, Mishra invited me to an informal discussion at the London Grill at Hotel Lanka Oberoi, when he hosted my wife and me to dinner.
“As the operator of the three largest and best five-star hotels in Iraq, Oberoi has a key role to play in training hospitality workers and developing tourism in Baghdad and Mosul. Welcome to my top team” said Mr. Mishra as he shook my hand after I signed a two-year expatriate contract with Oberoi.
My boss at Le Meridien was surprised with my quick decision. Paul Finnegan told me, “Chandi, you have decided to leave a global five-star hotel company owned by Air France to join a small regional hotel chain run by an Indian company. That does not make any sense to me, unless you have an exceptionally good reason!” I rested my case by showing him my contract. I told him, “What Oberoi has offered me is five times my current salary at Le Meridien. If you match it and offer me an expatriate contract in another country, I will re-join Le Meridien.” Well, it eventually happened eight years later in 1997, when I opened Le Meridien in Jamaica as its General Manager.
As at that time in Iraq they did not like to use the term ‘Director’, my title would be ‘Food & Beverage Manager’. “You know that over the last 17 years, Oberoi sent two dozens of promising Sri Lankan hoteliers for universally recognized two-year management program at the Oberoi School of Hotel Management in New Delhi. None of them reached the level of Food & Beverage Manager at Hotel Lanka Oberoi.
You would be the first Sri Lankan to hold this very senior position at an Oberoi hotel” Kawal Nain said, and then Madan Mishra explained, “Chandi, you would be our third ranking leader at Babylon Oberoi after me and the Resident Manager. You would be overall in charge of ten food and beverage outlets and banqueting, kitchens, and stewarding. Your team will include 160 employees from 10 countries. Seven of the managers reporting to you would be graduates of the Oberoi School of Hotel Management,” Madan Mishra said.
Mishra then added, “Out of 52 Sri Lankans I have recruited for Babylon Oberoi, you are one of two persons not from Hotel Lanka Oberoi. My friend, Mr. Nain thinks very highly of you, and I respect his judgement.” The other non-Oberoi person in the team was the IT Manager, who was married to Shirani Perera, the Oberoi-trained Executive Housekeeper chosen for Hotel Babylon Oberoi. Prior to our departure to Iraq, I was asked by my new boss to lead the team of 52 from different departments during our travels and until reaching the Hotel Babylon Oberoi in Baghdad.
After the Iran–Iraq War ended in August 1988, with the killing of 500,000 people over a period of eight years, there was optimism about the future of Iraq. It was the longest conventional war of the 20th century, with USA and the West backing Iraq. The year 1989 was important for Iraq, which focused on re-building the country targeting stability, the economy, human capital, and tourism. The country desperately needed external expertise to place those aspirations on a fast track.
In May 1989, I embarked on a journey that would mark a pivotal chapter in my career. Departing from Colombo bound for Bombay (later renamed Mumbai), I found myself among 50 former employees from Hotel Lanka Oberoi. As the sole senior divisional head amidst this group of new recruits for Iraq, I naturally assumed a leadership mantle for the duration of our travels. My prior experience in India, gleaned during a two-week stint seven years earlier as a member of Sri Lanka’s national Judo team. This lent me a deeper familiarity with the country than my companions.
Following a night’s stay, graciously arranged by Oberoi Hotels in Bombay, we proceeded onward with a second flight to Baghdad. Despite the palpable anxiety shared by all 52 of us at the prospect of working in a war-torn region with a vastly diverse culture, we were happy with the high salaries offered to us. It swiftly became apparent to me that acclimatizing myself to three distinct cultures —Iraqi, Indian, and Oberoi— would be paramount. I resolved to make this adaptation my foremost priority and adjust my communication and leadership styles accordingly.
In the lead-up to our arrival in Bombay and during our brief sojourn in that vibrant metropolis, I embarked on a reflective exercise, drafting a concise yet strategic roadmap for my professional career goals. My key ambition was to ascend to the position of General Manager within an internationally renowned hotel chain in the coming years.
In addition, drawing upon my experience as a senior lecturer and my education in ‘Training Methodology’ on an ILO/UNDP Fellowship in Europe, I harboured aspirations of eventually returning to academia to obtain a globally recognized Ph.D. This ambition had already taken tangible form in the submission of a doctoral thesis proposal to the University of Surrey, in England where I had completed my master’s degree in international Hotel Management five years before.
Rounding out my handwritten plan before our descent into Iraq was a vision of eventually establishing an international consultancy firm specializing in hospitality management — an aspiration built upon the satisfaction derived from previous ad hoc consulting engagements.
The lands that now comprise Iraq have a rich historical tapestry, rooted in the ancient region of Mesopotamia, meaning ‘The land between the rivers’. This fertile territory, cradled by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, nurtured a few of humanity’s earliest civilizations, including the Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians.
Situated within the Fertile Crescent in the Middle East and Mediterranean — an arc of land of 11 modern-day nations spanning from Egypt to Iraq and Iran — this region played a pivotal role in the emergence of settled agricultural communities, dating back to the early ninth millennium BCE. Over millennia, Mesopotamia became a nexus of imperial power, experiencing successive dominions under Persian, Greek, and Roman rulership before becoming an integral part of the Islamic world after the seventh century.
In the aftermath of World War I, the modern nation-state of Iraq emerged from the former Ottoman provinces of Baghdad, Basra, and Mosul, under British colonial administration. Despite formal independence in 1932, Iraq remained under British influence during a disorderly era marked by monarchical rule and subsequent political upheavals.
The influence of the Arab nationalist and socialist Baath Party in 1968 heralded a period of relative stability, fuelled by substantial oil reserves, which enabled ambitious development initiatives and the creation of a formidable armed force. However, this stability in the country was eclipsed by the authoritarian reign of Saddam Hussein, who steered Iraq into disastrous conflicts, including the Iran-Iraq War (1980–1988), the Persian Gulf War (1990–1991), and the Iraq War (2003).
Geopolitically, Iraq is bordered by Iran to the east, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia to the south, Jordan and Syria to the west, and Türkiye, to the north. Despite its strategic location, Iraq possesses only a small coastline along the northern Persian Gulf, offering limited maritime access compared to its regional counterparts.
Iraq’s population has surged, surpassing 47 million — an exponential increase from its 1989 estimate of 17 million, akin to the population of Sri Lanka at that time. Since 1980, amidst three decades marred by conflict, there was a solitary year of peace in 1989 —a year that afforded me the opportunity to experience and engage with the complexities of Iraq first-hand.
Baghdad
Baghdad, a city steeped in vibrant history, was established in 762 AD along the caravan route bridging Asia and Europe. Its strategic position on the banks of the Tigris River propelled it to prominence as a cultural, commercial, and intellectual epicentre of the Islamic world. In 1921, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq.
Despite the tumult of wars and disruptions, Baghdad remained a beacon of learning and commerce, drawing both local inhabitants and international visitors to the country. Its rich tapestry of history finds expression in myriad attractions, from museums and shrines to mosques and bustling souks, contrasted with modern-day amenities such as upscale boutiques and vibrant dining establishments. Upon our arrival at Baghdad International Airport, the prominent presence of large portraits of Saddam Hussein told their own story.
Hotel Babylon Oberoi
Nestled in one of Baghdad’s most coveted neighborhood, adjacent to the verdant expanse of the green zone and overlooking the famed Tigris River, Hotel Babylon Oberoi epitomized five-star luxury. Boasting 300 lavishly decorated rooms and suites, the hotel provided guests with unparalleled convenience and comfort in the heart of down-town Baghdad. Vibrant souks and iconic landmarks were mere minutes away, ensuring an enriching stay for discerning travellers seeking leisure and exploration.
The hotel’s distinctive pyramid architecture and expansive gardens paid homage to Baghdad’s Babylonian legacy, while its culinary offerings stregnthened its status as a premier dining destination. With ten food and beverage outlets, including six dining venues, the hotel provided an enormous gastronomic experience. From the allure of a bustling casino, and a lively nightclub, to the tranquillity of a rooftop bar and a chic lobby lounge, the hotel catered to every indulgence.
For corporate gatherings, weddings, and events, the hotel boasted an elegant ballroom and banquet rooms capable of accommodating up to 600 guests, ensuring a seamless blend of sophistication and functionality. Meanwhile, the outdoor Olympic-size pool, fitness centre, and spa facilities epitomized luxury and wellness, offering guests the pinnacle of relaxation and rejuvenation.
As preparations unfolded for my family’s imminent arrival, I found solace in the warm embrace of Iraqi and Indian management colleagues. With full-board family accommodation secured in a spacious two-bedroom suite overlooking the Tigris River, I embarked on my role as an expatriate manager with a strong sense of purpose.
While my primary focus remained on laying the groundwork for my burgeoning global career, I willingly assumed additional responsibilities at the request of the General Manager. Tasked with overseeing the welfare of 52 Sri Lankan employees, I embraced this role with enthusiasm, cognizant of the importance of fostering a supportive and inclusive work environment. As I settled into my new job, I reflected with satisfaction: “Here I am at age 35, finally as an expatriate manager, living in the luxurious confines of a five-star hotel in a foreign land.”
Features
The Division Bell Mystery
Tales of Mystery and Suspense 3
The murder, in a private dining room in the house, is of a financier with whom the government was negotiating a loan. When this seemed difficult the Minister of Home Affairs agreed to lead discussions, since he had known Mr Oissel the financier when they were young. Hence the private dinner, but when the Minister stepped out for a vote, Oissel was shot just as the Division Bell rang.
The Brahms and Simon detective novels, the first of which I wrote about last week, were amongst several books by the pair that Robert Scoble gave me when I was in Australia towards the end of last year. Amongst them was another thriller of a very different sort, though that too was written and set between the wars.
Called The Division Bell Mystery, it was set in the House of Commons, the first such book I believe, and was by Ellen Wilkinson, a Labour MP who became Minister of Education in Attlee’s government after the war, having served previously as Parliamentary Private Secretary to several ministers. Her hero Robert West is also a PPS, but a conservative, and his Minister, of Home Affairs, is an old style aristocrat, not much loved by the less orthodox Prime Minister, who nevertheless needs his support on many occasions.
The murder, in a private dining room in the house, is of a financier with whom the government was negotiating a loan. When this seemed difficult the Minister of Home Affairs agreed to lead discussions, since he had known Mr Oissel the financier when they were young. Hence the private dinner, but when the Minister stepped out for a vote, Oissel was shot just as the Division Bell rang.
West was just outside the door when the shot was heard, and when he opened it saw only the dead body with a revolver beside it. The assumption that this was suicide was however challenged by Oissel’s grand-daughter Annette, who was his heir, on the grounds that he would never have killed himself. But her view was given greater credence by the Inspector put in charge of the case who said there were no burn marks on the body which would have been the case had Oissel fired the pistol himself.
Matters are complicated by the fact that Oissel’s flat had been burgled while he was at dinner, and Jenks the policeman allocated to him, who had served the Home Secretary and seemed more acceptable to Oissel than someone from the Security Service, had been killed. Matters get even more complicated when Annette says her grand-father’s notebook in which he wrote his secrets in cipher was missing.
That was found in Jenks’ pocket, and then a photographer came to West to say he had been asked by Jenks to photograph this. More worryingly for West, he finds in the Home Secretary’s drawer a few pages from the notebook with what appears to be an interpretation of the cipher.
Overwhelmed by all this he confides in a recently created peer who knows all about the business world, who insists that they leave the house party at which they had met over dinner and discuss the matter with the Prime Minister who promptly summons the Home Secretary.
But the Home Secretary had gone to Scotland to launch a ship over the weekend, so the meeting could take place only on the morning of the Monday, when difficult questions were expected on the adjournment motion. He admits at the meeting that he had got Jenks to take the notebook, and also that he knew the code since it had been created by him and Oissel when they were young.
He thought he should resign, and even contemplated suicide, but the Prime Minister told him that that would be even worse for the government, and that he should go home to bed. The Prime Minister said that he himself would handle the question, which he did with aplomb, insisting that confidentiality was needed until the inquest. What had happened would be made clear then, he declared, leaving West and Inspector Blackit and Lord Dalbeattie what seemed the impossible task of solving the murder.
Dalbeattie had suggested that West ask a female Labour MP who was very fond of him to get what information she could from the staff. That there was some involvement there had become clear when West, going back late one night to collect a briefcase he had left in a dining room, found someone lurking in the dark in the corridor outside the private rooms. Room J, where the murder had happened, was meant to be guarded throughout by a policeman, but he had left the room having felt dizzy, and it seemed that his coffee had been drugged. West’s sudden appearance however had prevented anyone else getting into the room.
Dalbeattie decides to recreate the scene of the murder and has a dinner party in Room J on the Tuesday night, inviting West and Annette and the society hostess at whose house he had met, and also Patrick Kinnaird, an MP who was engaged to Annette, as well as the Permanent Secretary to the Home Ministry.
After coffee Inspector Blackit comes in with Grace, the Labour MP who had got the confidence of the staff, and a journalist who had also been helpful, and just as they say they think they are on the track the division bell rings. Grace jumps up and tells the Inspector that that provides the solution and they get a ladder, and sure enough find the revolver in the space where the bell is. Directed at the place where Oissel had sat, it had been primed to go off with the ringing of the bell. The waiter who had helped to set things up made clear who the murderer had been.
The reason for the murder and the confused motives of all those involved made for a fascinatingly intricate mix. But also impressive in the book were the descriptions of the isolation possible in the crowded premises of the house, the forceful characterization of the members – Grace based on the writer, the society hostess based on Nancy Astor, the first female MP – and the laid back nature of senior politicians which West realized had to change in the brave new world of high finance.
Features
The challenge of keeping value-based politics alive
The current outbreak of anti-immigrant protests in Durban, South Africa is bound to have taken many a subscriber to value-based politics or political idealism quite by surprise. After all, this is evidence that despite the historic accomplishments of nation-builders of the stature of the late President Nelson Mandela it cannot be taken for granted that identity politics, including racism in its worst forms, is no more in South Africa.
At the time of this writing details are scarce on the substantive root causes of the protests but it could very well be that economic grievances, particularly on the part of the majority community in South Africa, are contributing considerably to the disaffection. Shrinking employment and material prospects are likely to figure majorly among the factors igniting the unrest.
Fortunately, the local authorities in Durban are losing no time in calling for peaceful co-existence among the relevant communities and are pointing to the vital importance of stepping-up national integration processes. Apparently, immigrants in sizable numbers from neighbouring countries are present in Durban. However, international TV footage of the protests quoted some local authorities as saying that the majority of the immigrants in some centres that housed them were not illegal migrants and had the documents that entitle them to be in Durban.
In the Durban protests the world has fresh proof of the socially divisive consequences of the gathering globe-wide economic disaffection, touched off particularly by the continuing crisis in West Asia. Going ahead, the world would need to brace for increasing identity-based unrest of the kind it is just witnessing in South Africa.
Considering that the material lot of ordinary people everywhere could only aggravate progressively, with the US and Iran showing no signs of negotiating an end to their confrontation any time soon, it will be left to the more democratic and progressive sections of the world community to initiate positive measures collectively to bring a measure of relief to the discontented.
The swiftness with which such relief will be provided would depend crucially on the importance those sections taking up these undertakings attach to value-based politics as opposed to Realpolitik of power politics.
Going by these yardsticks, Italy could be considered to be moving in the right direction. Recently Italy came to the fore in initiating the collective named, ‘Rome Coalition for Food Security and Access to Fertilizer’, which has as one of its aims the swift provision of fertilizer to economically weak African countries.
In a recent statement Italian Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, Antonio Tajani, said that a principal aim of the project was to ensure that the farmers of Africa gained easy access to fertilizer, considering that food security is a growing concern among some of Africa’s economically vulnerable countries.
The statement went on to mention that some 30 countries hailing from the Mediterranean region, the Middle East, the Balkans as well as the FAO had been invited to join the coalition. The venture is far-seeing in that food security is main among the reasons for social discontent which in turn could degenerate into endemic political turmoil and bloodshed. Separatist violence and geographical fragmentation of countries wouldn’t be too far behind these developments, as Africa itself has often proved.
It is hoped that more G7 countries would take the cue from Italy and do what they could to ease the hardships of economically distressed countries, particularly of the global South. In these efforts they would need to break rank with the US, which is today brutally indifferent to the consequences of its policy of making ‘America First’, come what may.
Going by current developments, the Trump administration seems to be blithely oblivious to the wider, deleterious effects of its policy course in West Asia. Besides rendering Iran militarily and otherwise impotent nothing else seems to matter to Washington, as regards West Asia. This is policy short-sightedness of an extreme kind. After all, right now West Asia could be said to be sitting on the proverbial powder keg.
On the other hand, Iran is not giving the world the impression that it is doing anything constructive to get out of the policy straitjacket that it wove for itself decades ago. Rather than enter into a policy of ‘live and let live’ in relation to Israel in particular and initiate a process of reconciliation with the latter, it has chosen to operate within policy parameters that continue to damn Israel. This has put Israel always on the ‘defensive’ so to speak and prevented the opening up of space for meaningful dialogue.
That said, Israel is obliged to explore the possibilities of entering into a negotiatory process with the Arab-Islamic world that could lead to a de-escalation of tensions and bloodshed. It cannot continue to look at its neighbours through lenses that distort them as archetypal enemies who should be ‘wiped off completely from the face of the earth.’
In other words, the need is urgent for Realpolitik to give way to value-based politicks. Italy is beginning to prove that the latter approach could be pursued with some success. May be the EU and the UK could throw their weight behind these initiatives as well and establish that international politics could be refashioned on the basis of humane, civilized norms. The UN would need to be fully supportive of these moves and prove an organizational nucleus of the operations that follow.
In fact the time is ripe for people of conscience to collectively stand up on the side of peace and say ‘No’ to war and violence. Organizations such as the ICRC, the WHO and Medicines Sans Frontiers have already taken up this call. Referring to the widespread destruction of health facilities and their dehumanizing results these organizations have said, among other things, that ‘This is not a failure of the law. It is a failure of political will.’
True, ‘failure of political will’ among those powers that matter accounts for the runaway, uncontrollable nature of war and destruction in contemporary times, but more fundamentally it is a failure of the human conscience. It could very well be that the phenomenal levels to which violence and war have been unleashed today have had the effect of deadening consciences. This is a matter for urgent study and wide discussion.
Features
Vesak celebrations … with Cuteefly
I would describe Indunil Kaushalya Dissanayaka as innovative and creative, and she operates under the name of Cuteefly.
Indunil always comes up with something novel to celebrate special occasions, and she does it with candles … and that’s her profession.
She was in the spotlight when she created a happening scene, with candles, for Christmas, Sinhala and Tamil New Year, and Valentine’s Day.
As lanterns light up Sri Lanka for Vesak, the Colombo-based candle maker is quietly turning wax and wick into little pieces of the festival.

Candles reflecting Vesak themes
Her candles reflect Vesak themes – light, peace, remembrance, giving, etc., to enable you to fill your Vesak celebration with devotion and beauty.
Among her Vesak creations is a lotus-shaped soy candle, scented with sandalwood, lavender, etc., meant to burn during this Vesak Poya Day.

Indunil Kaushalya Dissanayaka: Customers
praise her for her creativity
These handcrafted Vesak candles are perfect for offering at the temple, she says.
What makes her creations so novel is that they come in different shapes, scents, themes, and all are handmade.
What’s more, her customers have heaped praise on her for her creativity.
According to Indunil, her creations are perfect as a thoughtful gift … to bring beauty, unity, and light into every moment.
Says Indunil: “Our beautifully handcrafted Unity candles are designed with premium detail and love, making them perfect for celebrations, gifts, and meaningful occasions.”
Cuteefly, says Indunil, is available online.
Readers could contact Indunil on 0778506066 for more details.
He Facebook Page is: Cuteefly.

Handmade with love
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