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Train Travel of Yore

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by HM NISSANKA WARAKAULLE

In the early part of the last century traveling by train was both cheap and interesting but time consuming. Though the train fare was a little more than the fare charged for the journey by bus, it was definitely more comfortable. For example, the train from Colombo Fort to Kandy cost Rs.2.50 while the bus fare was Rs. 2.25. As recently as the 1970s, a regular Kandy-Colombo train traveler said the fare from Kandy to Colombo was cheaper than the taxi ride from Maradana to his father’s Colombo home!

The trains at that time were powered by steam engines and they used to run on steam generated by burning coal. The commuters who used to put their heads out of their carriage windows used to get cinders in their eyes which was irritating at best and painful at worst

The most interesting train rides were to Kandy and Badulla from the Fort railway station. There were so many tunnels after Rambukkana, the passengers counted the number of tunnels the traindpasses through while younger travelers made a din. During the steam engines days, the Kandy and the Up-Country trains would have an extra engine fixed behind as a ‘push factor’ at the Rambukkana station as the climb was too steep for one engine to tackle. The ‘push’ engine would be detached at Kadugannawa as the climb ended there.

The then Ceylon Government Railway (CGR) used to run rail cars over short distances. I recollect the rail cars that used to run from Matale to Gampola and Kadugannawa. There were rail car halts at important places where there were schools or offices. And this indeed was a boon to schoolchildren and office workers. This service was done away with after some time as is usual in Sri Lanka.

The devastating floods in Kandy in 1958, especially at Getambe did a great deal of damage to houses and other buildings on the side of the Mahaweli river. One of two buildings that withstood the ravages was the Getambe temple. That is the reason motorists traveling to and from Kandy stop to pay their respects at this temple. Most of them do not know the reason why but continue to do so.

The railway too was affected adversely by this floods as the railway bridge at Peradeniya got washed away. The trains plied between Matale/Kandy up to the Sarasavi Uyana (then known as New Peradeniya) and people who wished to travel to Colombo or upcountry had to find their way to the Peradeniya Junction station to get a train to their destination.

Two train accidents I remember during that time were those at the level crossing between Polgahawela and Alawwa stations and one at Willorawatta. The accident at the level crossing was entirely due to the fault of a CTB driver who tried to cross as the train was nearing the crossing. It was one of the worst train accidents in Sri Lanka before the Peraliya disaster due to the tsunami.

The accident at Willorawatta close to the tunnel was when a train from Badulla to Colombo had derailed blocking both lines so that travel was not possible either way. I had bought a ticket to Kandy and was waiting for a long time at the Fort station with no signs of the train arriving at the platform. Then an announcement over the public address system indicated the train would be late.

After a long wait a train arrived at the platform and the passengers happily boarded not realizing what was in store for them. As we reached the Mirigama station we were asked to de-train and board one of the CTB buses parked outside. Then we were taken to the Alawwa station and we boarded the train to Kandy there.

When we reached Kandy, it was close upon midnight. As there were no vehicles in the Kandy city at that time, I had to walk the two miles home after midnight! That was the worst experience I had traveling by train.

The more interesting trips by train were those made with the Kingswood cricket and hockey teams to Colombo and Galle. From Kandy we took two trains to Galle to play a cricket match against Richmond College. We were put up for two nights in the college sick room. The two-day cricket match was played on the Galle Esplanade (now the international cricket stadium). While the match was in progress people used to walk across the ground as it was open from all sides.

We used to come to Colombo to play cricket and hockey against S. Thomas’ College, Mount Lavinia. Here we were accommodated for the night on the balcony of the main hall. Royal College gave us accommodation in a room facing the then racecourse, with a big hornets’ nest on the gutter outside.

The most interesting and enjoyable activity on these trips was the singing of popular English and Sinhala songs of the time and of course, the famous baila. Herby always gave the lead with his repertoire of songs and baila. We were able to do this without disturbing other passengers as a compartment was reserved for us.

The most interesting railway line for some time was the Kelani Valley narrow gauge line originally built for a South African customer. When the intended buyer rejected it, the British brought it here and installed the line from the Fort station to Opanayake. This was interesting because like the then tramcars, the trains on this line were very slow moving and some people used to get in and out while the train was on the move.

In about the early 1950s the then government decided to do away with this narrow-gauge line. As such, all the stations were abandoned, and unauthorized persons encroached on the Railway Department land. Later, it was decided to restart this service on a broad-gauge line with the trains running up to Avissawella only. It continues do so at present too.

Another railway line deactivated long ago was that from Nanu Oya to Nuwara Eliya. This was very popular with tourists and locals. It would be good if they could restore this profitable line.

During that time all long-distance trains had a restaurant or buffet car where a choice of short eats and cool drinks, tea/coffee and of course cold beer were available. In fact, the restaurant car was well patronized. In the trains to Jaffna and Badulla they also served lunch and dinner. The present-day train travelers miss these facilities.

The railway track and rail bed on either side were well looked after with no weeds allowed and the two sides, generally close to stations, were full of flowering plants which added a lot of colour. Most of the stations were clean with flowering plants grown in the gardens. The ladies’ and gentlemen’s waiting rooms too were tidily kept. Many stations had restaurants or kiosks for travelers to have refreshments and a cup of tea.

There were a lot of vendors carrying various types of eats and other goods for sale. The most popular of these vendors were the vadai vendors at the Rambukkana station some of who offered isso vadai as well. They were just five cents each at that time!

The railway catering service was run by Victoria Hotel, owned by Sir Donatus Victoria. After being long run by Victoria, it was taken over by U.K. Edmund, the owner of the brewery which manufactured the popular Three Coins beer.

The night trains to Jaffna and Badulla had sleeping berths which passengers had to book early. These berths were invariably full when the trains start.Now as then traveling by train to Kandy and Badulla is a fascinating experience with the superb scenery and going across the famous nine-arch Demodara bridge on the Badulla train.



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Features

Political violence stalking Trump administration

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A scene that unfolded during the shooting incident at the recent White House Correspondents’ Dinner in Washington. (BBC)

It would not be particularly revelatory to say that the US is plagued by ‘gun violence’. It is a deeply entrenched and widespread malaise that has come in tandem with the relative ease with which firearms could be acquired and owned by sections of the US public, besides other causes.

However, a third apparent attempt on the life of US President Donald Trump in around two and a half years is both thought-provoking and unsettling for the defenders of democracy. After all, whatever its short comings the US remains the world’s most vibrant democracy and in fact the ‘mightiest’ one. And the US must remain a foremost democracy for the purpose of balancing and offsetting the growing power of authoritarian states in the global power system, who are no friends of genuine representational governance.

Therefore, the recent breaching of the security cordon surrounding the White House Correspondents’ Dinner in Washington at which President Trump and his inner Cabinet were present, by an apparently ‘Lone Wolf’ gunman, besides raising issues relating to the reliability of the security measures deployed for the President, indicates a notable spike in anti-VVIP political violence in particular in the US. It is a pointer to a strong and widespread emergence of anti-democratic forces which seem to be gaining in virulence and destructiveness.

The issues raised by the attack are in the main for the US’ political Right and its supporters. They have smugly and complacently stood by while the extremists in their midst have taken centre stage and begun to dictate the course of Right wing politics. It is the political culture bred by them that leads to ‘Lone Wolf’ gunmen, for instance, who see themselves as being repressed or victimized, taking the law into their own hands, so to speak, and perpetrating ‘revenge attacks’ on the state and society.

A disproportionate degree of attention has been paid particularly internationally to Donald Trump’s personality and his eccentricities but such political persons cannot be divorced from the political culture in which they originate and have their being. That is, “structural” questions matter. Put simply, Donald Trump is a ‘true son’ of the Far Right, his principal support base. The issues raised are therefore for the President as well as his supporters of the Right.

We are obliged to respect the choices of the voting public but in the case of Trump’s election to the highest public position in the US, this columnist is inclined to see in those sections that voted for Trump blind followers of the latter who cared not for their candidate’s suitability, in every relevant respect, and therefore acted irrationally. It would seem that the Right in the US wanted their candidate to win by ‘hook or by crook’ and exercise power on their behalf.

By making the above observations this columnist does not intend to imply that voting publics everywhere in the world of democracy cast their vote sensibly. In the case of Sri Lanka, for example, the question could be raised whether the voters of the country used their vote sensibly when voting into office the majority of Executive Presidents and other persons holding high public office. The obvious answer is ‘no’ and this should lead to a wider public discussion on the dire need for thoroughgoing voter education. The issue is a ‘huge’ one that needs to be addressed in the appropriate forums and is beyond the scope of this column.

Looking back it could be said that the actions of Trump and his die-hard support base led to the Rule of Law in the US being undermined as perhaps never before in modern times. A shaming moment in this connection was the protest march, virtually motivated by Trump, of his supporters to the US Capitol on January 6th, 2021, with the aim of scuttling the presidential poll result of that year. Much violence and unruly behaviour, as known, was let loose. This amounted to denigrating the democratic process and encouraging the violent take over of the state.

In a public address, prior to the unruly conduct of his supporters, Trump is on record as blaring forth the following: ‘We won this election and we won by a landslide’, ‘We will stop the steal’, ‘We will never give up. We will never concede. It doesn’t happen’, ‘If you don’t fight like hell, you’re not going to have a country anymore.’

It is plain to see that such inflammatory utterances could lead impressionable minds in particular to revolt violently. Besides, they should have led the more rationally inclined to wonder whether their candidate was the most suitable person to hold the office of President.

Unfortunately, the latter process was not to be and the question could be raised whether the US is in the ‘safest pair of hands’. Needless to say, as events have revealed, Donald Trump is proving to be one of the most erratic heads of state the US has ever had.

However, the latest attempt on the life of President Trump suggests that considerable damage has been done to the democratic integrity of the US and none other than the President himself has to take on himself a considerable proportion of the blame for such degeneration, besides the US’ Far Right. They could be said to be ‘reaping the whirlwind.’

It is a time for soul-searching by the US Right. The political Right has the right to exist, so the speak, in a functional democracy but it needs to take cognizance of how its political culture is affecting the democratic integrity or health of the US. Ironically, the repressive and chauvinistic politics advocated by it is having the effect of activating counter-violence of the most murderous kind, as was witnessed at the White House Correspondents’ Dinner. Continued repressive politics could only produce more such incidents that could be self-defeating for the US.

Some past US Presidents were assassinated but the present political violence in the country brings into focus as perhaps never before the role that an anti-democratic political culture could play in unraveling the gains that the US has made over the decades. A duty is cast on pro-democracy forces to work collectively towards protecting the democratic integrity and strength of the US.

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22nd Anniversary Gala …action-packed event

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The Skyliners: Shanaka Viswakula (bass), Mario Ranasuriya (lead guitar), Daryl D'Souza (keyboards) and Kushmin Balasuriya (drums)

The Editor-in-Chief of The Sri Lankan Anchorman, a Toronto-based monthly, celebrating Sri Lankan community life in Canada, is none other than veteran Sri Lankan journalist Dirk Tissera, who moved to Canada in 1997. His wife, Michelle, whom he calls his “tower of strength”, is the Design Editor.

According to reports coming my way, the paper has turned out to be extremely popular in Toronto.

In fact, The Sri Lankan Anchorman won a press award in Toronto for excellence in editorial content and visual presentation.

However, the buzz in the air in Canada, right now, is The Sri Lankan Anchorman’s 22nd Anniversary Gala, to be held on Friday, 12 June, 2026, at the J&J Swagat Banquet Convention Centre, in Toronto.

An action-packed programme has been put together for the night, featuring some of the very best artistes in the Toronto scene.

The Skylines, who are classified as ‘the local musical band in Toronto’, will headline the event.

Dirk Tissera and wife Michelle: Supporting Sri Lanka-Canada community events, in Toronto, since launching The Anchorman
in 2002

They have performed and backed many legendary Sri Lanka singers.

According to Dirk, The Skylines can belt out a rhythm with gusto … be it Western, Sinhala or Tamil hits.

Also adding sparkle to the evening will be the legendary Fahmy Nazick, who, with his smooth and velvety vocals, will have the crowd on the floor.

Fahmy who was a household name, back in Sri Lanka, will be flying down from Virginia, USA.

He has captivated audiences in Sri Lanka, the Middle East and North America, and this will be his fourth visit to Toronto – back by popular demand,

Cherry DeLuna, who is described by Dirk as a powerhouse, also makes her appearance on stage and is all set to stir up the tempo with her cool and easy delivery.

“She’s got a great voice and vocal range that has captivated audiences out here”, says Dirk.

Chamil Welikala, said to be one of the hottest DJs in town, will be spinning his magic … in English, Sinhala, Tamil and Latin.


Both Jive and Baila competitions are on the cards among many other surprises on the night of 12 June.

This is The Anchorman’s fifth annual dance in a row – starting from 2022, 2023, 2024 and 2025 – and both Dirk and Michelle, and The Anchorman, have always produced elegant social events in Toronto.

“We intend to knock this one out of the park,” the duo says, adding that Western music and Sinhala and Tamil songs is something they’ve always delivered and the crowd loves it.

“We have always supported Sri Lanka-Canada community events, in Toronto, since launching The Anchorman, in 2002, and we intend to keep it that way.”

No doubt, there will be a large crowd of Sri Lankans, from all communities, turning up, on 12 June, to support Dirk, Michelle and The Anchorman.

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Face Pack for Radiant Skin

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* Apple and Orange:

Blend a few apple and orange pieces together. Add to it a pinch of turmeric and one tablespoon of honey. Apply it to the face and neck and rinse off after 30 minutes. This face pack is suitable for all skin types.

According to experts, apple is one of the best fruits for your skin health with Vitamin A, B complex and Vitamin C and minerals, while, with the orange peel, excessive oil secretion can be easily balanced.

* Mango and Curd:

Ripe mango pulp, mixed with curd, can be rubbed directly onto the skin to remove dirt and cleanse clogged pores. Rinse off after a few minutes.

Yes, of course, mango is a tasty and delicious fruit and this is the mango season in our part of the world, and it has extra-ordinary benefits to skin health. Vitamins C and E in mangoes protect the skin from the UV rays of the sun and promotes cell regeneration. It also promotes skin elasticity and fights skin dullness and acne, while curd, in combination, further adds to it.

*  Grapes and Kiwi:

Take a handful of grapes and make a pulp of it. Simultaneously, take one kiwi fruit and mash it after peeling its skin. Now mix them and add some yoghurt to it. Apply it on your face for few minutes and wash it off.

Here again experts say that kiwi is the best nutrient-rich fruit with high vitamin C, minerals, Omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E, while grapes contain flavonoids, which is an antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage. This homemade face pack acts as a natural cleanser and slows down the ageing process.

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