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The truth about Japanese tempura

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When 16th-Century Portuguese came to Japan, they brought a special dish with them. Today, in Japan, it’s called tempura and has been a staple of the country’s cuisine ever since.

In 1543, a Chinese ship with three Portuguese sailors on board was headed to Macau, but was swept off course and ended up on the Japanese island of Tanegashima. Antonio da Mota, Francisco Zeimoto and Antonio Peixoto – the first Europeans to ever step on Japanese soil – were deemed ‘southern barbarians’ by the locals because of the direction from which they came and their ‘unusual’, non-Japanese features.

The Japanese were in the middle of a civil war and eventually began trading with the Portuguese, in general, for guns. And thus began a Portuguese trading post in Japan, starting with firearms and then other items such as soap, tobacco, wool and even recipes.

The Portuguese remained in Japan until 1639, when they were banished because the ruling shogun Iemitsu believed Christianity was a threat to Japanese society. As their ships sailed away for the final time, the Portuguese left an indelible mark on the island: a battered and fried green bean recipe called peixinhos da horta. Today, in Japan, it’s called tempura and has been a staple of the country’s cuisine ever since.

No-one knows the exact origins of peixinhos da horta. “We know it existed in 1543,” said Michelin-starred chef Jose Avillez when I met up with him at Cantinho de Avillez, one of his acclaimed Lisbon restaurants. “But before that, it’s anyone’s guess.”

Green beans, it turns out, changed food history.

However, peixinhos da horta was only one of many dishes the Portuguese inspired around the world. In fact, Portuguese cuisine, still heavily overshadowed by the cuisines of Italy, Spain and France, may be the most influential cuisine on the planet.

Portuguese cuisine may be the most influential cuisine on the planet

When the Portuguese turned up in Goa, India, where they stayed until 1961, they cooked a garlicky, wine-spiked pork dish called carne de vinha d’alhos, which was adopted by locals to become vindaloo, one of the most popular Indian dishes today.

In Malaysia, several staples, including the spicy stew debal, hail from Portuguese traders of centuries past. Egg tarts in Macao and southern China are direct descendants to the egg tarts found in Lisbon bakeries. And Brazil’s national dish, feijoada, a stew with beans and pork, has its origins in the northern Portuguese region of Minho; today, you can find variations of it everywhere the Portuguese have sailed, including Goa, Mozambique, Angola, Macau and Cape Verde.

Peixinhos da horta were often eaten during Lent or Ember days

(the word ‘tempura’ comes from the Latin word tempora, a term referring to these times of fasting), when the church dictated that Catholics go meatless.

“So the way around that,” Avillez said, “[was] to batter and fry a vegetable, like the green bean. And just to add to it, we called it peixinhos do horta, little fish of the garden. If you can’t eat meat for that period of time, this was a good replacement.”

The word ‘tempura’ comes from the Latin word tempora

And it had other functions too. “When the poor couldn’t afford fish, they would eat these fried green beans as a substitute,” Avillez said. And sailors would fry the beans to preserve them during long journeys, much in the way humans have been curing and salting meat for preservation purposes for centuries.

Perhaps not constricted by tradition, the Japanese lightened the batter and changed up the fillings. Today, everything from shrimp to sweet potatoes to shitake mushrooms is turned into tempura.

“The Japanese inherited the dish from us and they made it better,” Avillez said.

Avillez said Japanese people sometimes turn up at his restaurants and see the fried bean dish and say, “Hey, Portuguese cuisine is influenced by Japanese cuisine.” He added, “And that’s when I say, ‘No, in this case it’s the other way around’.” A Japanese-born sous chef at Avillez’s two-Michelin-starred Lisbon restaurant, Belcanto, even chose to train in Portugal instead of France because he recognized the influence on his home cuisine, particularly in peixinhos da horta.

Avillez said his one complaint about the dish, in general, has always been that the beans are often fried in the morning and so they go cold and limp by the time they get to the table later that day. He remedies this by not only cooking them on demand, but by adding a starch called nutrios that keeps them crispy. After the bean is blanched, it gets rolled in the batter of wheat flour, egg, milk, and nutrios and then flash fried.

Other chefs I talked to in Portugal had their own recipes for the fried green beans, but they didn’t deviate much. “It’s a very simple dish,” said chef Olivier da Costa, when I met up with him at his Lisbon restaurant Olivier Avenida, located in the Avani Avenida Liberdade hotel.

“I use a batter of flour, milk, eggs, salt, pepper and beer,” he said. “Beer?” I asked. “Yes! It ferments the batter and the beer foam gives it a better taste.” He didn’t have the dish on his menu at the time so I had to take his word for it.

One reason why Portuguese love peixinhos da horta so much, da Costa said, was nostalgia. “We all eat it as children and thus have fond memories of it. These days it’s been making a comeback, not just because people are eating more vegetarian food, but because a younger generation are taking more interest in our local cuisine and because they want to be taken back to that simpler time.”

Avillez is taking this newfound interest in super traditional Portuguese cuisine to a new level. Along with his Japanese-born sous chef, he plans to temporarily offer a tasting menu called ‘1543’, the year the Portuguese first showed up in Japan, offering peixinhos da horta and other Portuguese dishes that have inspired Japanese cuisine. Alongside the Portuguese dishes, he plans to serve the Japanese versions that evolved from the Portuguese presence in Japan four-and-a-half centuries ago.

Each bite was like taking a first bite

Back at Cantinho de Avillez, an order of peixinhos da horta appeared in front of me. They were rigid like pencils with a lumpy texture and a yellow-ish hue. Each bite was like taking a first bite: crisp, light and super flavourful, the crunchy texture of the batter complimenting the sturdy feel of the bean. The dish has been one of the only consistent items on the menu at Cantinho de Avillez, which opened in 2012.

“I can’t take it off,” Avillez said. “My regulars would be enraged.” (BBC)



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The letter that revealed the man behind the legend

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As the world celebrates the 100th birthday of Sir David Attenborough, tributes continue to pour in from scientists, conservationists, filmmakers, and millions of admirers whose lives were shaped by the legendary natural historian’s work.

But among the many messages shared this week, one deeply personal reflection from renowned Sri Lankan-born scientist Dr. Ruchira Somaweera has captured the true essence of the man behind the iconic voice.

“We all have people we look up to and hope to be like one day,” Dr. Somaweera wrote in a moving tribute marking Attenborough’s centenary. “For me, one of those people has always been Sir David Attenborough.”

The story dates back to 2013, when a BBC⁠ documentary crew visited to explore Dr. Somaweera’s pioneering work on freshwater crocodiles for a potential wildlife series. Although his research ultimately did not make it into the final production, the encounter led to something far more meaningful.

Through members of the crew, Dr. Somaweera sent Attenborough a card expressing gratitude for the profound influence he had on three generations of his family.

“What I never expected,” he recalled, “was to receive a handwritten letter from him just two weeks later, thanking me for the kind words.”

For Dr. Somaweera, the gesture revealed something extraordinary about Attenborough — not merely the global icon known to billions, but a deeply gracious and humble human being who still took time to personally respond to admirers, despite decades of worldwide fame.

“It said so much about the man behind the legend,” he reflected.

That quiet act of kindness perhaps explains why Attenborough’s influence extends far beyond television screens. Across nearly eight decades, he has become not only the world’s most recognisable natural history broadcaster, but also one of the most trusted voices in science communication and conservation advocacy.

From Life on Earth to Planet Earth, Blue Planet and countless other landmark productions, Attenborough transformed the way humanity sees the natural world.

He brought remote rainforests, coral reefs, deserts, mountains, and deep oceans into living rooms around the globe, inspiring generations to care about ecosystems they might never physically encounter.

Few communicators have bridged science and emotion with such extraordinary power.

For Sri Lankan scientists and conservationists, Attenborough’s impact has been especially profound. Many grew up watching his documentaries, developing an early fascination with wildlife through his storytelling.

Dr. Somaweera’s own career reflects that inspiration. Widely respected for his work on crocodilians, reptiles, and conservation biology, he has become an internationally recognised scientist whose research has contributed significantly to understanding freshwater ecosystems and reptile conservation.

Yet even accomplished scientists, it seems, can remain awestruck by the people who first ignited their curiosity.

The timing of Dr. Somaweera’s tribute also resonates strongly, following recent screenings of Attenborough’s powerful documentary Ocean, including an exclusive showing hosted by Spa Ceylon⁠ at SCOPE Cinema.

In the film, Attenborough reflects on humanity’s relationship with the sea with a sense of urgency sharpened by a lifetime of observation.

“After living for nearly 100 years on this planet,” he says, “I now understand the most important place on Earth is not on land, but at sea.”

The documentary explores the astonishing biodiversity of oceans while warning against destructive practices, such as industrial bottom trawling, climate change, and marine habitat destruction. But even amid alarming realities, Attenborough continues to offer hope grounded in science and collective action.

That enduring optimism may be one reason why his influence spans generations.

“Happy 100th birthday to a true giant of science communication, storytelling and conservation advocacy,” Dr. Somaweera wrote in his tribute. “The impact you have had on the world, and on countless young minds, is immeasurable.”

Indeed, for millions around the world, Attenborough’s voice became synonymous with wonder itself.

He taught humanity that the planet is not merely scenery, but a living system of intricate relationships — forests breathing for oceans, coral reefs feeding fisheries, plankton generating oxygen, predators maintaining balance, and every species playing a role in the fragile architecture of life.

At 100, Sir David Attenborough remains more than a broadcaster.

He is a witness to a changing planet. A storyteller for the natural world. And for many scientists like Dr. Ruchira Somaweera, a lifelong inspiration whose greatest legacy may lie not only in the documentaries he created, but in the curiosity, compassion, and responsibility he awakened in others.

By Ifham Nizam

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Two hearts, one ocean

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At the press conference hosted by Manipal Hospitals at Kingsbury Hotel, where the historic Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim was unveiled, spotlighting endurance and cross border unity

The first Lanka-India swim by a couple

Bengali couple,Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi, created history by undertaking the first ever Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim, reflecting not only athlete excellence and endurance but also the deep rooted cultural and historical connection between India and Sri Lanka.

Sharing their thoughts, before the event, Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi expressed enthusiasm about their challenges. “We are excited to take this unique expedition and are proud to align it with a message of health and wellness. This expedition stands as a powerful symbol of unity.

The first even Sri Lanka-India Ocean Water Swim, presented by Manipal Hospitals, is not just another event, it is a bold endurance crossing of geography, grit and shared history between Sri Lanka and India.

This message was unfolded at a press conference held at the Kingsbury Hotel, before the event, by the officials of the giant Manipal Hospitals. The spotlight, however, firmly rested on the two swimmers, a couple, who brought this vision to life.

Vrushali Prasade and her husband Danish Abdi, in their 30s from Bengal are working in the IT industry. They learnt swimming only about four years ago, after first taking to waters during a holiday in the Maldives. The Island met them before their historic attempt.

Poised yet quietly determined, the swimmers embodied the spirit of the challenges ahead, At the press conference they spoke on true discipline, preparations and mental strength required to take on such a historic crossing.

Manipal Hospitals, India’s largest Pan Multi Speciality Hospital, are the main sponsors , symbolically connecting the two nations, India and Sri Lanka, through sport, healthcare and shared ambition.

The couple had previously swam the Indian Ocean as part of the rally but the recent Indian Ocean swim is their first solo couple effort and the longest. They were assisted by multiple boats, alongside paramedics and coast guards.

The Chief Operating Officer, Manipal Health Enterprise Karthik Rajagopal said this historic swim reflects not only athlete excellence and endurance, but also the deep rooted cultural and historical connection between the two countries, The swimmers Vrushali and Danish Abdi said, before the event: ” Swimming is for all ages whether you are a kid or a matured person, it is never too late to start for any age group. When asked about their challenges of undertaking such a historic feat, they said. “The Palk Strait is no gentle stretch of water, its currents are unpredictable, its tides restless . Unlike the the controlled calm of a swimming pool, the sea offers no guarantee, one moment they may bring a steady rhythm, the next, a surge that breaks it entirely. But we are excited to take on this unique expedition and proud to resonate the message of health and wellness to the world’

Fatigue, inevitably becomes a companion and also long hours in open water test not just muscle strength but mental resilience. Jellyfish often drift with currents making the calm swim into a painful endurance test.

“With limited visibility, we can suddenly brush against tentacles, turning a steady rhythm into a moment of sharp pain. In the vast unpredictability of the ocean, we have to chose whatever the sea offers.”

Vrushali Prasade and Danish Abdi: The young Bengali couple who conquered the ocean

They also said the route across the Palk Strait is deceptively complex. Though relatively shallow, those waters are known for shifting currents, strong tidal pulls and unpredictable winds. We cannot rely on a straight path, we move guided by pilots on escort boats who constantly adjust the direction based on the sea conditions. Then we have the unpredictability of the sea itself. Floating debris, sudden weather shifts and there is no wall to hold onto, no pause button only the rhythm of our stroke and breath. Vrushali and Danish expressed enthusiasm about these challenges . We are very excited to overcome all these challenges.’

‘Our decision, however, to take on the challenging stretch across the Palk strait is rooted in more than a personal achievement, said the couple. They spoke of the partnership aspect of the swim calling it both their biggest strength and unique challenge.

Behind the drama of the sea and the determination of the swimmers, lies a quieter crucial force,the medical backbone. As title sponsor, Manipal Hospitals was not merely lending its name to this event. They actively shaped the safety framework that make such a ambitious feat possible.

Manipal Hospitals is the largest Pan India Speciality Hospital network by bed capacity, boasting over 12,300. It is known for its expert medical expertise multi speciality care and commitment to patient centric care and also well connected to Sri Lanka’s medical and patient community especially for spine and oncology services.

Medical teams were stationed on escort boats equipped to respond instantly to issues ranging from hydration and hypothermia to jellyfish stings or muscle cramps. All in all the hospital’s participation underscores a broader message, promoting health, endurance sports and cross border collaboration.

In the end what the couple did places them in the same conversation as some of the world’s most daring open water swimmers, those who have conquered icy channels relentless tides and vast strong winds.

As the couple moved through the waters of the Palk Strait, their journey becomes a powerful metaphor for the relationship between Sri Lanka and India, two neighbours bound by history, culture and shared oceans. It is a quiet but powerful gesture of goodwill, reminding that while seas may separate lands, they can also bring them together.

By Zanita Careem

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Galle Face Hotel introduces “La Sérénité”

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Young invitees bringing new energy and elegance

Limited-Time Saturday Brunch at 1864 Limited Edition

The spirit of leisurely weekend dining came alive recently as La Sérénité Saturday Brunch unfolded in elegant style at 1864 Limited Edition at the iconic Galle Face Hotel.Set against the timeless charm of Colombo’s most historic seaside hotel. guests were treated to an indulgent culinary afternoon where sophistication, flavour and oceanfront glamour blended seamlessly.

The heritage charm of Galle Face Hotel, with its polished floors, high ceilings and whisper of history, created a backdrop that is both grand and intimate.Within this setting the brunch emerges not just as a culinary offering but as a carefully orchestrated experience. At the heart of this orchestration was the vision of the General Manager Suresh Abbas. A veteran in the hotel industry, under his leadership, the culinary team delivered a menu for selected invitees, a menu that balanced European finess with contemporary flair .

From gourmet seafood and international delicacies to locally inspired creations and decadent desserts, the spread offered a luxurious journey for discerning brunch lovers.

The GM’s influence is most visible in the intangible details, The curated menu, personalised service and elegant ambience all echoed the hotel’s dedication to offering memorable gastronic experience.The brunch remained international in character while still grounded in place.

La Sérénité, a thoughtfully conceived brunch experience, at 1864 Limited Edition, brings together a sense of calm, continuity, and culinary storytelling within one of the city’s most enduring landmarks.

Set against the pace of a restless world, La Sérénité is designed as a quiet counterpoint, an invitation to pause, to gather, and to ease into the weekend with intention. Since 1864, Galle Face Hotel has existed within this paradox, offering a sense of stillness and reassurance even as the world around it has continually evolved. This brunch extends that legacy, creating a space where time softens, conversation flows unhurriedly, and presence takes precedence.

At its core, La Sérénité is not only about the experience of slowing down, but also about the stories we return to through food. The menu is conceived as a subtle journey through culinary history, drawing from moments across continents and generations, where dishes have been shaped by instinct, refinement, and time.

There is a quiet familiarity in this approach. Classics are not reimagined for novelty, but carefully refined, preserving their essence while elevating their form. The experience moves between contrast and balance, simplicity and indulgence, tradition and gentle reinterpretation. In doing so, it offers something both recognised and rediscovered.

In this way, La Sérénité becomes more than a brunch. It is a curated timeline of taste, an experience that brings together memory, familiarity, and thoughtful refinement within a setting that invites calm.

Presented as a limited-time experience, La Sérénité commenced on 2nd May and takes place every Saturday at 1864 Limited Edition.

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