Life style
Thambili : the king of all coconuts
By Zinara Rathnayake
“Those who know, know,” Sudath Fernando tells me, cutting a tender, young thambili at his makeshift kiosk on Galle Road in Colombo. Sudath has been selling thambili – often called ‘king coconuts’ in English – in Colombo since 1991. Some customers come to him as soon as he starts his business at six in the morning. “For them, it’s medicine. They have it daily before their morning tea,” he says.
Sudath is one of the many thambili vendors lining the streets of Colombo who pile up orange-coloured coconuts by the crowded highways and privy alleys. Food often represents one’s class and race in Sri Lanka. Long basmati rice, more expensive than other rice varieties, is cooked in wealthy households. My Sinhalese parents prepare abundant dishes of dry fish and my partner’s Tamil family roll out atta (wholemeal wheat flour) dough into chapatis for dinner. But thambili is neutral. It knows no class, race or religion. As the temperatures have risen in recent years, thambili vendors have sprouted up on the island streets. They often go unappreciated by the locals, but they are the true lifeline of the public on hot Sri Lankan afternoons.
Sri Lankan cuisine is dominated by the coconut. We cook chicken into a fiery red curry using coconut oil. We use coconut milk in the hopper batter, their fluffy meaty centres tapering off into a lacy crisp. We make sambal with scraped coconut and add grated coconut to our mallung, a uniquely Sri Lankan green leafy salad stir-fried in a dry skillet. Some Sri Lankans like to keep their sliced bitter gourd in coconut water until the bitterness dissipates, and in the morning we eat diya bath (leftover rice soaked overnight in water) with kiri hodi, a saute of onions and spices simmered in coconut milk; a hearty breakfast of humble rice meeting rich, creamy kiri hodi sprinkled with salt and lime juice.
But, nothing quite comes close to the joy of sipping a thambili. Slurp it once and you would know; it is truly the king of all coconuts. There were days I begged my mother for thambili. I followed my mother from room to room, and into the garden when she raked fallen leaves.
“Amma, when can I have thambili?”
Every week in the searing hot months, my mother would call the coconut plucker in our village. Bare-chested, his sarong folded into half above his knees, this forty-something man climbed the thambili tree in our garden. He plucked a few nuts which would last the whole week.
To me they were happiness encased in a giant nut. When prepared correctly they could quench thirsts that dried up my scaly lips? my mother would scrape the meat from inside the thambili and mix it with the rich coconut water, adding a tablespoonful of sugar before I gulped it down in the humid afternoons at home.
Coconut trees dot the landscape in Sri Lanka; swaying palms equally fringe the rugged coastline and silvery-silky beaches. But not all of them, or even most of them, are thambili. Thambili directly translates to orange (an apt name due to their bright orange husks, which mark them out as a native Sri Lankan variation from regular green coconuts) and they thrive within the stretching coconut triangle between the capital city, Colombo, and the towns of Kurunegala and Chilaw.
I spent my early childhood years in my mother’s village in Kurunegala falling within this luscious coconut triangle. When I was eight, we relocated to my father’s village near Kandy. Within the first month, my father had planted five coconut trees in our 15-perch garden ? two of them were king coconuts. On blazing hot afternoons, my father, using a blade tied to a long bamboo stick, would pluck thambili for me. It’s this fresh thambili water that puts an end to my afternoon sourpuss. On a steamy, tropical afternoon, there is nothing like thambili water to refresh and rejuvenate, even compared to regular coconut water. It is this quality that makes them the king of all coconuts.
King coconuts take anywhere between 8-14 months to fully mature. “Tender nuts are full of water,” Sudath tells me, noting that these small, tender coconuts have a lighter orange shade. When they grow older and larger in size, they acquire a darker shade of orange. “Older coconuts sell fast because of their sheer size and the attractive colour,” Sudath says, “But it’s the young, small ones that have more water. They are healthier,” he chuckles.
The local palate prefers everything sweet. It is another reason many customers pick large coconuts, as their water contains a distinctive saccharine taste. Oftentimes, Sudath advises his customers to choose a tender coconut. But they seldom listen to him. Sudath’s coconut business is the only income for his family. Dreading customer disapproval and losing his income, he sticks to piles of matured thambili and stocks only a few tender nuts for the connoisseurs, those who, in his words, ‘know’.
Our love for thambili stems from living every day in the year-long tropical climate. While I love walking, it is often a challenge in Sri Lanka. Walking merely a mile in Colombo is exerting. Sweat drips down your forehead after five minutes in the harsh sun. Your cotton shirt is soaked in sweat as if you accidentally passed by a quick rain shower. When we exert and sweat, we lose electrolytes, minerals such as potassium, sodium and magnesium, resulting in fatigue and dehydration. Thambili is packed with these electrolytes: it is nature’s Lucozade. So when we see piles of golden orange lining the pavements from a distance, we know that it is not just another coconut: in Sri Lanka, thambili is happiness.
Thambili is also more than a simple thirst-quencher; it has both culinary and wellness uses. Diwani Welitharage is a pharmacist by profession and explains to me how thambili water helps digestion and metabolism. “Drinking thambili water on an empty stomach early in the morning boosts your energy,” she tells me over the phone. Thambili is not only rich in vitamins but has been credited with everything from anti-aging properties to treating urinary tract infections in Ayurvedic medicine. “Some people drink it with sandalwood powder to help nourish their skin,” Diwani explains.
In her spare time, Diwani loves to study traditional Sri Lankan cuisine and experiments with thambili water, often combining it with lime, rambutan and chia seeds, or cooking baby jackfruit and marshy herbs directly in the water, the acidity softening the starch. But “for health benefits,” Diwani says, “just drink it as it is.”
Given its myriad properties, it’s no surprise that there is now a lot of money to be made from thambili. Thambili water is now packaged and exported globally; famous exporters like Eliya, based in New York, supply it across the globe to the Fairmont chain’s hotels in Dubai and Taj group hotels in New York, promising a taste of “the paradise island” for $60 for a 12-pack. This humble coconut now features in cocktails and trendy drinks in bars, high-end hotels and chic cafés in both Sri Lanka and abroad. A luxe beach resort in Sri Lanka once welcomed me with a chilled thambili mixed with Sri Lankan arrack (a local alcohol made from the fermented sap of coconut flowers) and lime juice. In the scorching heat, I couldn’t have asked for a better welcome drink.
Apinash Sivagumaaran, CEO at the popular Isso restaurants in Colombo and the Maldives, tells me that thambili is a popular item on their drink menus. Apinash and his team studied the market and customer preferences before they opened their first restaurant in 2017. He wanted to incorporate bits and pieces of Sri Lankan coconut culture at Isso in a more luxurious way. Instead of extracting the water into a glass, the giant nut comes to your table, refrigerated and chilled, in homage to the surrounding crowded streets hemmed in with piles of thambili. “It is much more personal,” Apinash says.
None of this, however, really captures the experience of buying thambili from a roadside vendor. A quick thambili stopover on the streets in Sri Lanka often turns into friendly banter with fellow customers and vendors. I fear the water dripping down my clothes, so I would use a straw to sip my thambili. But others, like my father, would keep his mouth pressed to the nut, and gulp it down without a straw. It’s a skill to master.
When Sri Lanka went on a strict, police-managed curfew to control the spread of COVID-19, roadside thambili vendors like Sudath belong to the country’s ‘informal sector’, which contributes to about 40% of the nation’s GDP, took a heavy blow. During the pandemic, thambili sellers, street food vendors and porters have been the worst hit among all of us. People like Sudath, who stand long hours in the sun to quench our thirst, are also the least supported by the government or the authorities.
Sudath tells me that the initial days in the lockdown were very hard. He tried his best to obtain a permit. After a couple of weeks, having contacted a police officer he knew, his permit arrived. He hired a truck, wore a mask and went door to door selling thambili. Business was slow. “I was scared too. I am 50 now and I was scared of bringing the virus home,” he tells me. “But without the business, my family would go hungry.” BBC
Life style
From culture to empowerment: Indonesia’s vision for Sri Lanka
In a world where diplomacy often moves quietly behind closed doors, ambassadors serve as the living bridge between nations, culture and peoples.
The Indonesian Ambassador to Sri Lanka Dewi Gustina Tobing carries this responsibility with a vision that goes behind protocol seeking to deepen ties, foster mutual understanding and showcase the richness of Indonesian heritage to a Sri Lankan audience. From trade and tourism to cultural exchange and the role of woman in society, the Ambassador embodies the naunced, multifaceted relationship between two nations with shared histories and aspirations, In this exclusive interview, we explore perspectives that span politics, culture and social development and gain a glimpse into the mindset of a diplomat whose mission is about connection as it is about representation.
(Q) How would you describe the current state of relations between Indonesia and Sri Lanka and what excites you most about its future?
(A) Indonesia and Sri Lanka today enjoy warm, stable, and cooperative relations, rooted in shared history, non-aligned foreign policy traditions, and a common identity as Indian Ocean nations. Politically, the relationship is cordial and pragmatic, with regular diplomatic engagement and mutual support in multilateral forums such as the United Nations, the Non-Aligned Movement, the Indian Ocean Rim Association (IORA), and historically within the Colombo Plan framework. Neither country sees the other as a strategic rival; instead, they approach the relationship with goodwill and respect for sovereignty.
Economically, ties are positive but still under-realized. Trade has been growing gradually, particularly in areas such as textiles, rubber, coconut oil, spices, and pharmaceuticals. There is also cooperation in maritime affairs, fisheries, disaster management, and education, reflecting shared development priorities as archipelagic and coastal states. Through the Colombo Plan, both countries have benefited from and contributed to technical cooperation, capacity building, and human resource development, strengthening institutional and educational linkages across South and Southeast Asia.
Culturally, the relationship is enriched by deep historical links—from ancient Buddhist connections and Indian Ocean trade routes to modern people-to-people exchanges. Educational scholarships and professional training programmes under the Colombo Plan further reinforce these soft-power ties, giving the relationship a natural resilience beyond day-to-day politics.
What excites me most about the future of Indonesia–Sri Lanka relations is the untapped strategic potential of Indian Ocean cooperation. Both countries are well positioned to work together on:
• Maritime security and blue economy initiatives
• Port development and logistics connectivity
• Renewable energy and climate resilience
• Tourism, cultural exchange, and education (including expanded Colombo Plan–style exchanges)
• South–Southeast Asia economic linkages
As global attention increasingly shifts toward the Indo-Pacific and the Indian Ocean, Indonesia and Sri Lanka have a real opportunity to elevate their partnership from friendly to truly strategic—not through military alignment, but through trade, sustainability, human capital development, and inclusive regional leadership. The continued relevance of the Colombo Plan’s cooperative spirit adds an important historical foundation to that future-oriented partnership.
(Q) Indonesia and Sri Lanka share deep maritime and Buddhist histories. How can these be translated into modern diplomatic partnerships ?
(A) Indonesia and Sri Lanka share deep maritime and Buddhist histories that can be translated into modern diplomatic partnerships by:
• Strengthening maritime cooperation, including port connectivity, blue economy initiatives, Indian Ocean security dialogue, and enhanced fisheries cooperation—such as sustainable fishery management, combating illegal, unreported and unregulated (IUU) fishing, aquaculture development, and joint research on marine resources
• Promoting cultural and religious diplomacy, especially through Buddhist heritage exchanges, education, and tourism
• Expanding people-to-people ties, such as academic collaboration, monk exchanges, cultural programs, and technical exchanges in marine and coastal livelihoods
• Deepening multilateral cooperation, particularly within the Indian Ocean Rim Association and the United Nations
By turning shared history into practical cooperation—including stronger collaboration in fisheries and marine sustainability—both countries can build a forward-looking, resilient, and mutually beneficial diplomatic partnership rooted in their shared identity as Indian Ocean nations.
(Q) What are your priorities during your tenure as Indonesia’s envoy to Sri Lanka?
(A) During my tenure as Indonesian’s envoy to Sri Lanka, my priorities would be:
Strengthening Bilateral Relations
Deepen political and diplomatic ties through regular high-level engagements and close coordination between our governments, based on mutual respect and shared regional interests.
Enhancing Economic and Trade Cooperation
Promote two-way trade, investment, and tourism by identifying new opportunities, supporting business partnerships, and encouraging collaboration in sectors such as manufacturing, agriculture, maritime industries, and the digital economy.
Promoting People-to-People and Cultural Exchanges
Foster closer connections between Indonesians and Sri Lankans through education, cultural diplomacy, tourism, and cooperation among youth, academics, and civil society.
Cooperation in Regional and Multilateral Forums
Strengthen collaboration within ASEAN–South Asia frameworks, the Indian Ocean Rim Association (IORA), and other multilateral platforms to address shared challenges such as maritime security, climate change, and sustainable development.
Consular Protection and Citizen Services
Ensure the welfare, safety, and rights of Indonesian citizens in Sri Lanka while improving consular services and outreach.
Promoting Peace, Stability, and Sustainable Development
Support dialogue, inclusivity, and cooperation that contribute to regional stability and sustainable economic growth, drawing on Indonesia’s own experiences in democracy and development.
These priorities would guide my efforts to build a strong, forward-looking partnership between Indonesia and Sri Lanka.
(Q) As a woman leading Indonesia’s diplomatic mission, what unique perspectives do you bring to diplomacy?
(A) As a woman leading Indonesia’s diplomatic mission, I bring an inclusive and empathetic approach to diplomacy that values dialogue, collaboration, and mutual respect. I believe effective diplomacy benefits from listening carefully to diverse perspectives and building consensus through understanding and trust.
I also bring a strong commitment to promoting gender equality and women’s empowerment, both within the diplomatic mission and in our broader cooperation with Sri Lanka. By encouraging the participation of women and youth in economic, social, and peace-building initiatives, diplomacy becomes more representative and sustainable.
Most importantly, I bring professionalism, resilience, and Indonesia’s values of tolerance and cooperation, demonstrating that leadership in diplomacy is defined by integrity, capability, and dedication rather than gender.
(Q) How does Indonesia promote women’s participation and leadership on the global stage?
(A) Indonesia promotes women’s participation and leadership on the global stage through a combination of national policies, international advocacy, and practical cooperation.
At the national level, Indonesia has strengthened legal and institutional frameworks to advance gender equality, including policies that support women’s leadership in politics, the civil service, diplomacy, and the economy. Women increasingly serve as ministers, ambassadors, peacekeepers, and senior officials, reflecting Indonesia’s commitment to inclusive leadership.
At the international level, Indonesia actively advocates for the Women, Peace, and Security (WPS) agenda in multilateral forums such as the United Nations, ASEAN, and the G20. Indonesia supports the meaningful participation of women in peace processes, conflict prevention, and post-conflict reconstruction, and contributes female peacekeepers and mediators to international missions.
Indonesia also promotes women’s economic empowerment globally by supporting women entrepreneurs, MSMEs, and digital inclusion initiatives through South–South and triangular cooperation, particularly with developing countries.
Through diplomacy, development cooperation, and example, Indonesia demonstrates that empowering women is essential to sustainable peace, economic growth, and effective global governance.
(Q) Indonesia culture from batik and cuisine and cinema has a powerful global appeal. How import is a culture as a diplomatic tool?
(A) Culture is a very important diplomatic tool because it builds understanding and trust in ways that formal diplomacy alone cannot. Through culture—such as batik, cuisine, cinema, music, and traditional arts—Indonesia shares its values of diversity, tolerance, and creativity with the world in a way that is accessible and engaging.
Cultural diplomacy helps people connect at a human level. When people experience Indonesian culture, they gain a deeper appreciation of Indonesia’s history, identity, and pluralistic society. This strengthens people-to-people ties, reduces misunderstandings, and creates a positive foundation for political, economic, and social cooperation.
An increasingly important driver of this cultural diplomacy is the role of the millennial and Gen Z generations. Young Indonesians actively promote batik, cuisine, and cinema through digital platforms, social media campaigns, creative start-ups, and international collaborations. By modernizing traditional batik designs, creating contemporary culinary brands, and producing globally relevant films, they make Indonesian culture more accessible to international audiences. Through influencers, content creators, student exchanges, film festivals, and culinary pop-ups abroad, millennials act as informal cultural ambassadors who bridge local heritage with global trends.
Culture also supports broader diplomatic objectives. It promotes tourism, encourages creative-industry partnerships, and opens opportunities for education and cultural exchange. Indonesian cinema and cuisine, for example, showcase contemporary stories and innovation while preserving tradition, making Indonesia relatable and relevant globally. Digital-native generations amplify this impact by leveraging technology, cross-cultural networks, and entrepreneurial creativity to expand Indonesia’s cultural reach.
In essence, culture is a form of soft power. It allows Indonesia to project a positive image, foster mutual respect, and build long-term relationships. With millennials and young creatives at the forefront—championing batik as sustainable fashion, cuisine as global culinary diplomacy, and cinema as a platform for storytelling—Indonesia’s cultural diplomacy becomes more dynamic, participatory, and influential in shaping global perceptions.
(Q) What drew you to a career in diplomacy and who inspired you along the way?
(A) I was drawn to a career in diplomacy by a strong desire to serve my country while building bridges between nations. From an early stage, I was fascinated by how dialogue, understanding, and cooperation could resolve differences and create opportunities for mutual benefit. Diplomacy offered a path to represent Indonesia’s values, interests, and diversity on the global stage while contributing to peace and development.
Along the way, I was inspired by Indonesia’s senior diplomats and national leaders who demonstrated integrity, professionalism, and a deep commitment to multilateralism and international cooperation. I was also inspired by women leaders—both in Indonesia and internationally—who showed that perseverance, competence, and principled leadership can overcome barriers and create meaningful change.
Equally important were mentors and colleagues who emphasized the importance of listening, cultural sensitivity, and empathy in diplomacy. Their guidance reinforced my belief that effective diplomacy is not only about negotiation, but also about building trust and lasting relationships between people and nations.
(Q) Are there places people or moments in Sri Lanka that have left a lasting impression on you?
(A) Yes, Sri Lanka has left a strong and lasting impression on me through its places, people, and moments. The warmth and generosity of the Sri Lankan people stand out most clearly. In my interactions, I have consistently felt a genuine openness and hospitality that make engagement both meaningful and memorable.
Sri Lanka’s rich cultural and spiritual heritage is also deeply impressive. Visiting historic and sacred sites—such as ancient temples, cultural cities, and places of worship—reflects the country’s deep sense of history, resilience, and diversity. These places convey values of tolerance and coexistence that resonate strongly with Indonesia’s own multicultural identity.
Equally memorable are moments of everyday interaction: conversations with community leaders, students, artists, and businesspeople who are optimistic about the future and committed to rebuilding and progress. These encounters highlight Sri Lanka’s strength, dignity, and potential, and they reinforce my commitment to further strengthening the friendship between Indonesia and Sri Lanka.
(Q) How do you balance the demands of high level diplomacy with personal well being?
(A) Balancing the demands of high-level diplomacy with personal well-being requires deliberate focus, discipline, and self-awareness. Diplomacy often involves long hours, complex negotiations, and high-stakes decision-making, so maintaining mental, emotional, and physical health is essential to perform effectively.
I prioritize time management and set boundaries to ensure that I have moments for rest, reflection, and personal interests, even amidst a busy schedule. Practices such as regular exercise, reading, and staying connected with family and friends help me recharge and maintain perspective.
Equally important is cultivating a strong support system within the mission, where teamwork, delegation, and mutual trust allow responsibilities to be shared effectively. Mindfulness and self-reflection also help me approach challenges calmly and make decisions with clarity.
Ultimately, maintaining personal well-being is not just about self-care—it is integral to being a resilient, attentive, and effective diplomat, capable of representing Indonesia with focus, energy, and dedication.
(Q) What message would you like to share with Sri Lankan about Indonesia and its people?
(A) I would like to share with the people of Sri Lanka that Indonesia is a nation rich in diversity, culture, and natural beauty, and that its people are warm, resilient, and welcoming. Indonesians value harmony, tolerance, and cooperation, which are reflected in our traditions, arts, and everyday life.
Indonesia is committed to building strong friendships and partnerships with Sri Lanka, grounded in mutual respect and shared interests. We welcome cultural, educational, and economic exchanges, and we hope that more Sri Lankans will experience the richness of Indonesian culture, cuisine, and landscapes first hand.
Above all, I want the people of Sri Lanka to know that Indonesia sees them as close partners and friends. Together, our nations can grow, collaborate, and create opportunities for prosperity, peace, and mutual understanding in the region and beyond.
Life style
Ranjith Fernando celebrates cricketing journey with Hob Nails to Spikes
The launch of the book “Hob Nails to Spikes” by Ranjith Fernand, a name synonymous with passion, discipline and an enduring love for the game was held at the grand Ballroom of the Galle Face Hotel, drawing a distinguished gathering of cricket enthusiasts, friends and other well-known invitees.
It was a celebration of Ranjith’s remarkable journey in the world of sport, with the book reflecting on memorable experiences, insights and milestones from his long association with cricket. A former national cricketer, and famous TV commentator, he has spent decades nurturing and narrating the story of Sri Lanka cricket. Guests listened to tributes and reflections on his contribution to the game, making the launch a warm and memorable occasion.
Standing firmly was his wife, Ramani Fernando, whose unwavering support has been constant throughout his journey. Known for her own success and elegance, Ramani shared the proud moment as friends and wellwishers gathered to applaud both the book and the inspiring story behind it.
The book reflects Fernando’s experience in cricket – from the early days of the sport to the modern era – sharing ancedotes, insights and stories from a lifetime devoted to the game. The morning was filled with tributes from those who have known him through his playing days, coaching career and his familiar voice in the commentary box.
His articulate commentary and deep knowledge of the game have made him a trusted voice for cricket fans over the years.
By Zanita Careem
- Veteran cricket commentator Ranjith Fernando marks a proud literary milestone at the launch of his book
- Book launch, memories and pride displayed – Ranjith and Chandra Schafter
- Stories, memories, cricket – Ranjith has it all in his book
- Brandon kuruppu, Kumar Dharmasena and Chaminda Vas turning moments into memories
- Chaminda Vas, Romesh Kaluwitharane and Wasim Akram
Life style
Indiya enters a new chapter
Indiya, the signature Indian restaurant at Cinnamon Life at City of Dreams, enters a new chapter with Chef Mukesh Joshi at the helm. Situated on the spectacular Level 23, the restaurant now offers a dining experience that is as elevated as its views, combining Indian culinary traditions with Sri Lankan influences in a contemporary, family-style format.
Under Chef Mukesh’s leadership, the menu takes guests on a journey across India’s regions. Fragrant rice dishes such as Awadhi Mutton Biryani and Zaffrani Chicken Dum Biryani anchor the experience, while comforting classics like Dal Makhani and Chana Masala bring depth and familiarity to the table. Alongside these are thoughtfully crafted vegetarian preparations, including Kurkuri Bhindi, Hyderabadi Bagara Baingan, and the indulgent Shahi Subz Korma.
The experience unfolds through layers of texture and flavour. Crisp starters such as Sev Papdi Chaat, a generous Pakora Platter, and warming soups set the tone, followed by tandoor-led favourites like Hariyali Tandoori Gobi, Rajma Galouti, and non-vegetarian selections including Jhinga Koliwada, Rawa Fried Surmai, and a classic non-vegetarian Kebab Platter. Freshly baked breads, from Chilli Cheese Naan and flaky Paratha to comforting Aloo Kulcha, arrive ready to be shared.
Seafood and meat preparations showcase Chef Mukesh’s confident spice work and regional storytelling, with dishes such as Jhinga Hara Pyaz, Macchi Malai Curry, Railway Chicken Curry, Kozhi Milagu Fry, Mewari Kheema, and Mutton Bhuna forming the heart of the menu. For those seeking something distinctive, the chef’s special selections, including Tandoori Kaala Jhinga, Pahadi Tandoori Kukkad, Nandu Curry, and the standout Lagoon Jhinga Biryani, offer bold, expressive flavours designed to take centre stage.
The meal concludes on a nostalgic, indulgent note with classic desserts such as Mishti Doi and Kulfi Falooda, bringing warmth and familiarity to the final moments of the dining experience.
Indiya’s new approach moves away from traditional fine dining, focusing instead on bringing people together around the table. Whether it’s a family gathering, a dinner with friends, or a special occasion, the restaurant is designed for connection, conversation, and memorable moments, where every dish reflects care, authenticity, and thoughtful execution.
Chef Mukesh’s career spans India and the UAE, from The Westin and St. Regis Mumbai to Dubai’s India Bistro and Art of Dum, where he led kitchens, designed menus, and executed landmark events. Known for balancing classic flavours with contemporary presentation, Mukesh’s hands-on leadership and commitment to excellence shape every aspect of Indiya, from the ingredients and techniques to the teamwork that brings the dishes to life.
With this new chapter, Indiya offers a dining experience that is vibrant, elevated, and immersive, celebrating Indian cuisine in a way that feels authentic, approachable, and perfectly suited to the city-sized destination of Cinnamon Life at City of Dreams.
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