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‘Pride and ego’ cannot enter birth place of Jesus

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Holy Land Tour (Palestine and Israel)

by Lalin Fernando

We were a group of 48 that visited the Holy Land (Palestine and Israel) in mid- September 2018. Guided by Bishop of Galle Dr. Raymond Wickremasinghe the group, now sadly 47 as one died on the tour, came back bonded by an experience of a lifetime with a spiritual predisposition. This was in the land of the three Aramaic religions with over 5,000 years of history dating back to Greek, Roman, Persian, Byzantine, Islamic; Crusader, Turkish and British mandate times. Much of it was violent, bloody but more was epochal and inspiring in an exceptional Mediterranean land.

We arrived in Amman, Jordan from Abu Dhabi on a Monday morning. The Israeli border crossing check point palaver which apparently could at times be a six hours ordeal, took us only about 45 minutes. This was most probably due to our tour manager Ms. Thusahari’s tremendous experience (over 20 tours), confidence and efficiency and of course the Bishop’s personality.

Crossing over to the Israeli side we had what was to be a trade mark warm greeting from Sonia, who some thought at first was one of our tour party. An Arab Christian born in Nazareth in Northern Israel, she was our very able guide. With a never failing sense of humour and politeness she kept us closely engaged. At the churches she made sure she was heard above other guides briefing their groups, while Bishop Raymond would translate into Sinhala and elaborate if necessary. Her briefings were delivered in precise and clear English. She asked us to note that much of the land was below sea level, a novel experience.

Our coach driver was gentleman Jameel. On our return to Jordan, it was ebullient Hussein who we were told was not from the Royal family! Both were excellent drivers especially when negotiating the spectacular mountain roads.

This is a fascinating land divided unequally and by force between Jews and Arabs. The UN in 1994 ordered Israel (Resolution 142) to hand back Arab land taken by conquest in 1967.This has not happened. Instead the Arabs were given certain areas designated as Palestinian Authority A and B. One, like Bethlehem, is policed by Arabs and the others like Gaza by Israelis. Provisions for the status quo of the holy places in Palestine are governed by the Treaty of Berlin (1878), so fortunately Israel is bound by it too. While there are parts that look like any first world country, some others saddened us.

We crossed over the Allenby (General, later Field Marshal) Bridge. It was Allenby, called ‘Bull,’ that led the British Army into Palestine during WW1 with the help of Colonel TE Lawrence’s Arab Forces. They had defeated the Ottoman Turks who had ruled most of Arabia for 400 years (1517-1918).The Arabs however were betrayed by the Brit ‘Bloody Balfour’.

We had a tasteless lunch in a restaurant overlooking the northern end of the Dead Sea that is about 300 feet below sea level. As we proceeded inland the scenery was breathtaking. Soaring mountains, bare of trees and greenery were interspersed with deep valleys in this part of the Levant (Cyprus, Jordan, Israel, Palestine, Lebanon and Syria). Later on we were amazed to see Israeli plantations with mangoes the size of coconuts and four ft tall coconut trees despite geography and rock hard soil. However due to overuse of scarce ground water, the Sea of Galilee which is the main source for Israel’s water, is drying up rapidly.

We saw armed soldiers in many places reminding us sadly of SL pre-May 2009. It excited some who photographed them despite warning notices not to do so. These were clearly young reservists of the crack Israeli Forces. They looked scruffy and bored.

We arrived in the late evening Monday at the impressive four-star Orient Palace Hotel, Al Sahel St, Bethlehem in Palestine. It is pronounced Bethlaham from Bait (House) laham (lamb). Apparently a butcher ran a mutton shop there centuries ago. We showered and struck out for the small shops close by. Our favourite was the Hezar sweet shop run by Issa and his son. We made friends and quickly struck bargains for an assortment of exotic nuts and Arabic and Turkish sweets. US dollars were the preferred currency. Nobody wanted Palestinian dinars!

Our wake up calls were at 5 am on the first three days after arriving, 4 am on one day and 3 am on the Nazareth (longest day) visit. This was necessary in order to be at the religious sites before hundreds of other tourists swarm in. The churches are open even at 5 am. Late arrival could result in considerable delay in entering the churches. As SL is two and a half hours ahead of their time, getting up early wasn’t much of a hassle from our normal waking up times.

The weather was glorious with clear blue skies, if also hot. It was ideal for the climbing and walking that we had to do daily. We drank a lot of water having been warned of heat stroke.

We set off each morning with inspirational Catholic piety, the Bishop leading in prayers and the singing of hymns. (The group had about three Anglicans and one Buddhist too) His Lordship was stern occasionally to make sure we did not waver in focus and purpose. We ended each day with Mass at the last church visited.

The churches made up in atmosphere, character and awe what they may have lacked in Western grandeur. The mosaics, stained glass windows with limestone or marble floors and columns were there but in dark, ‘moody, broody’ churches, lit with an assortment of brightly coloured lamps. Some were in humble stone buildings but they attracted pilgrims from all corners of the world in their thousands throughout the year. The Chinese were the most numerous from Asia.

On Tuesday we visited The Basilica of the Nativity, the birth place of Jesus. One enters it through the 4-foot by 2-foot Door of Humility. It is to make sure that by ‘pride and ego’ cannot enter. It was first built in the fourth century by Queen Helena, mother of the first Christian Roman ruler, Constantine. Burned down in a fire, it was rebuilt by Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the sixh century.

A 14 point silver star marked the place where Jesus was born. This was removed, probably by the Greeks in 1847, but was later replaced in 1853 by order of the ruling Ottoman Turks. It was a bit underwhelming as it was in urgent need of repairs, said to cost US$ 17 million. The Palestinian Authority (98% Muslim) and many countries including Jordan have contributed.

When the Persians invaded in 614 AD and torched almost all the churches, they spared this church as they believed the mosaics there depicted three women in Persian dress. Co-located is the Church of St Catherine where Christmas midnight Holy Mass is celebrated with teeming crowds.

We followed the Pilgrims route that included Shepherd’s Field, Manger Square and the Milk Grotto where Mary hid the infant Jesus from the Roman soldiers before her flight to Egypt. Apparently the white rock nearby indicates drops of milk.

We visited Mount Zion the site of the Last Supper Room, below which is King David’s tomb. The one mile ridge of the Mount of Olives that used to be covered with olive trees has a breathtaking view of Jerusalem with the Dome of the Rock covered in gold leaf, dazzling. The Garden of Gethsemane where some of the olive trees are over 900 years old lies at the bottom of the ridge in the Kidron Valley

The Basilica of Agony (Church of All Nations) is by Gethsemane. It is built over the rock on which Jesus spent the night in prayer before his betrayal by Judas and crucifixion. Its interior is purposely dark and the ceiling, painted dark blue, evoking the night time of agony.

We also visited Emmaus Abu Ghosh, seven miles from Jerusalem where Jesus appeared before his two disciples after his death and resurrection and had a meal. We saw the Church of St Peter in Galllicantu where the cock crowed for the third time as Peter thrice denied Jesus. The dungeon where Jesus was humiliated, assaulted and imprisoned by the Jewish High Priest Caiphas before he was tried is under the church. We also went to the Dormition Abbey on Mt Zion where Virgin Mary’s statue lies in peaceful slumber.

In the gorgeous hillside neighbourhood on the road to Jericho was the Franciscan Basilica of Visitation in Ein Karem, commemorating the visit of Mary to her cousin Elizabeth. This is where Mary sang her hymn of praise, the Magnificat (Latin-‘My Soul’). It is inscribed on its walls in 62 languages. It was banned in three countries as being revolutionary!

We saw the Golden Gate that is permanently closed but through which it is believed by all three religions that the Messiah will enter in latter days, the Chapel of Ascension (the caretakers are two Muslims), Pater Noster the church of the Lord’s Prayer (now in 140 languages), Pool of Bethesda where Christ cured a man who was crippled (with a noisy Indian tour party disturbing everyone). What is said to be the print of the right foot of Jesus can be seen at the Chapel of Ascension.

 

The left foot print is in the Al Aqsa shrine, apparently not a mosque, which is where the Muslims believe Mohamed made his Night Journey to Heaven, having arrived from Mecca.

On Wednesday we visited beguiling, bewildering and wonderful Jerusalem. There was over-excitement in presence of history, beauty and belief. Yet it is a city under tension as a 400 mile long 84 foot high wall cruelly encircles the West Bank Palestinians. Jerusalem’s name came from the Hebrew ‘Yerushalayim’ meaning the City of Peace.

We entered the walled Holy city after the Church of St Anne, dedicated to the mother of Virgin Mary, via St Stephen’s gate (Lion’s Gate).This is where the first Christian martyr was stoned to death. We walked on the Via Dolorosa (The Way of Sorrows – Way of the Cross) to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (Calvary). The Jews (who else?) believe the route was different. The tour party, three at a time, took turns to carry the Cross (brought disassembled from SL) from station to station.

Sadly, the death of 80year old Mrs. Violet Perera due to a heart attack occurred in front of the Church just before noon. She had carried the cross twice. Her sister was present. The Bishop joined the paramedics in desperate resuscitation efforts. He and tour manager Thushari completed all formalities with the Israeli police including contacting the next-of-kin of the deceased in Negombo, all within two hours. Regrettably the SL Embassy did not take the many calls from the Israeli police during those two hours. They Embassy denied receiving any calls!

A pall of grief descended. The Bishop sensing despondency immediately revived everyone by reminding them that as we mourn for the dear departed lady, we should not let grief overcome purpose in the Holy Land.

The Church is the most venerated site in Christendom. It has very many chapels of all denominations. Four, some say five Stations of the Cross are within it. There is the lavishly decorated site of the crucifixion, Calvary (Golgotha), the Stone of Anointing and the (empty) tomb where Christ was buried, the traditional site of Resurrection of Christ at the Greek chapel of Anastatis, that has an altar over the rock of Calvary (12th station), the Catholic chapel of Nailing on the Cross (11th station). Underneath the Golgotha chapel is the statue of Mary (13th station).

The Church with a capacity of 8,000 opens at 4 am. About 15,000 visit daily. The Orthodox Greek start Mass, (2 am) followed by the Armenians and then the Catholics at 6 am. There is also a Copt who has to pray alone while Ethiopians do so from their roof top monastery. Priestly brawls over territory occur several times a year.This is despite the ‘firman’ (decree) by the Ottoman rulers in 1852, confirmed by the Treaty of Paris (1856) that binds the various denominations. Roof repairs and even shadows cause problems!

Questions were asked about the Arc of the Covenant where the Word of God, the Ten Commandments, in stone inscriptions inside a box apparently lies buried somewhere in the Temple Mount according to the Jews. Rumours are many and hoaxes a few but the Bishop reminded us not to worry about it as the Covenant is in the hearts of believers. The Jews however are digging for it close to Al Aqsa shrine, posing a problem to its foundation. They believe Al Aqsa was built over King David’s burial site. They insist a discovery of the Dead Sea scrolls proves where the location is and it would finally prove that Jerusalem belongs only to the Jews. When Israeli General Moshe Dayan’s troops swept into Jerusalem after defeating the Jordanians in 1967, he prohibited attempts to raze Al Aqsa shrine.

The Church was lost to the Christians for 700 years. Saladin, a Kurd from Tikrit (Saddham Hussein’s birth place) who conquered Jerusalem from the Crusaders (1198) gave the 30 cm long keys to it to two Muslims whose direct descendants Aded al Judeh (aged 89) and Nusseibeh (69-years) are the Custodians today. They open it at 4 am daily. They hold the ‘newer’ key that is 500-years old. They have the original that is 800 years old too! There is even an unused ladder in place from 1728 on the first floor.

We also visited the Western wall that is the foundation of the Temple Mount, the holiest place in the Jewish faith where King Solomon built their sacred temple. It came under Jewish control in 1967 after about 1,000 years. The Jews do not call it the ‘Wailing Wall’, a term coined by Westerners.

Jerusalem is also Islam’s third holy city.The Al Aqsa mosque on the Temple Mount is the third holiest Islamic site. It is where at one time Muslims turned in its direction to worship. It was to Mecca later. It is out of bounds to non Muslims. The Dome of the Rock is also there.

Coming down hill from the last church for the evening, we stopped at a place where everyone quenched their thirst with juice from massive pomegranates. An Israeli who had found out we were a happy talkative crowd from Sri Lanka said he had been an Air Force officer who had been in SL to fix guns on helicopters in 1988. He said he had an SLAF corporal as driver. This Corporal apparently pointed out Tamils on the streets as he drove in and out of Colombo. He said he too could always recognize an Arab anywhere, snidely suggesting we had something in common. I told him I was 78-years old but had never been able or wanted to look for racial or other differences between the Tamils and Sinhalese.

We had a 5 am start on Fri 14th to go to Nazareth, Jesus’ home town and the Arab ‘Hi Tech capital’ of Israel. It has 70% Muslims and 30% Christians. It nestles on a craggy hillside with tall trees. Its layout reminded one of Nuwara Eliya, where in fact there is a ‘Nazareth’ hotel.

We visited the Church of Annunciation where Angel Gabriel appeared before Mary, and told her she would give birth to a child, Cana, where water was turned into wine, the Church of St Joseph where Joseph had his carpentry workshop, Mount of Beatitudes (Eight Blessings) that is the site of the Sermon on the Mount, with its arches of marble and alabaster, Church of Multiplication, Church of Primacy of St Peter and the Franciscan Wedding Church at Kfar Kanna. Here married couples were overjoyed to be able to repeat their vows. Cana wine was bought by all with the promise of Christmas looming. Unfermented, it is sweet grape juice. Both are tempting.

We then descended to the Sea of Galilee (Tiberias) where it is said Jesus walked across its waters. The shore line was luxuriant with tall trees. Inland is the wateless plain of Hattin where the Arabs in 1187 under Saladin defeated the Crusaders under King Guy de Lusignan in one of the most decisive battles of history.

We each had an enormous Galilee Talapilla fish with rice and vegetables in a restaurant overlooking this fabled fresh water lake (sea). Our Hostess said the meal was specially prepared for us and asked if she could sing for us too. She did so sweetly. When she finished we persuaded Michelle who had sung in a Jerusalem church two days previously too, to respond. She obliged with a stunning and electric rendering of ‘O Jerusalem’. The hostess like the other over 100 guests, clearly inspired, sang once more.

We then had a boat ride on the Galilee. The crew at once ran up the Sri Lanka flag and played cassettes of Sinhalese songs as we motored in the emerald green waters overlooked by the Golan Heights with Mt Hermon, dominating and often snow capped, as we looked at the hills of Lebanon, Syria and Jordan

On the way back at Jericho we also saw the Sycamore tree that Zachariah, the short pitiless tax collector for the Jewish rulers, climbed to view Jesus. Overwhelmed at being recognized by Jesus, he reformed himself.

We had a 7am start on Saturday. Most of us wallowed in the turquoise waters of the Dead Sea that is 427m below sea level, the lowest point in the world. It is 35% salt. It keeps one completely buoyant, an unforgettable experience. It also has the lowest bar in the world!

We went to Jericho (Arab territory) and by cable car to the Mount of Temptation (Qurantico) 350m above sea level to have lunch in a restaurant carved into the rock. Qurantico is where Jesus defeated the temptation of the Devil for 40 days and 40 nights. The word ‘quarantine’ so familiar to us now, is derived from it. There is a Greek monastery up there too.

Jericho is said to be the oldest city in the world at 10,000 years. One mosque Omar is 258m (846 ft) below sea level. Just one percent of just one percent of its population is Christian. There is no proof that Jericho fort’s very old walls fell to Joshua’s legendary trumpet calls.

While waiting for the cable car for the return ride, a Palestinian policeman told us how very difficult Israel makes it for Arabs to get a passport or visit another country. Evil.

After lunch we went to Bethany near Al Maghtas where John the Baptist baptized Jesus in the Jordan River. The very pretty Arab and friendly Israeli girl soldiers caused a diversion- mainly for the ladies – who outnumbered the men in our group! The Israeli’s (who else?) say the actual baptismal place is further north under their control where hotels and guest houses reap the benefits. The river is just a muddy stream here. Its middle, marked by floats, marks the border between Jordan and Israel. The Bishop conducted the baptism ritual for those who wanted it. Jordanian soldiers like the Israelis were seen helping visitors. There is a Jewish ritual bathing too called the mikvah. The Arabs call it ‘immersion’.

As we were leaving an Israeli lady asked us where we were from. Having been told she said she was very happy to see people from SL and hoped that we enjoyed our visit there.

A final mass was in held in Bethlehem This time it was a Palestinian lady who having asked where we were from, thanked us for coming to Bethlehem. Tourism is the life blood of the Arabs in Palestine. There are over 600 hotels in Bethlehem.

All our lunches were at prearranged restaurants but the best was one we chose. At one, after lunch, its management distributed fez hats and organized a crocodile dance with rollicking Arab music. The best dancer cannot be named!

Every night at dinner in the shared Arab and Jewish tradition there were vegetables in plenty with various meats and kebabs and an abundance of fruit. Bishop Raymond unobtrusively sat at a different table every day, getting to know everyone in the group.

On the last night there was a delightful Arab pre-wedding women only party. There was music and dancing. They were all incredibly pretty with peaches and cream complexions and fashionably dressed.

At a short farewell ceremony, Sonia and Jameel were thanked profusely by the group as were the Bishop and Thushari. Individual donations were then given to Sonia and Jameel who became a bit emotional.

We left at 9.30 am on Saturday for our return to Jordan by coach. We were taken up to the heights of Mt. Nebo in Madaba where Moses, after 40 years of wandering to get to the Promised Land, died without being able to do so. He was a prophet of the Jews, Christians and Bhais. We saw the church that is built over his resting place. We had a stunning view of Palestine, the river Jordan and the Dead Sea as we climbed into the mountains.

We returned to SL on Monday with fond memories of a never-to-be-forgotten experience in splendid company. It had been a wonderful, delightful and charming few days. Not only Jews say ‘Next year in Jerusalem’.



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Science, policy and persistence: Praveen Bhargav’s roadmap for Elephant Conservation

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Praveen Bhargav

By Ifham Nizam

Wildlife conservation cannot be driven by emotion alone. It must be backed by sound science, reliable data, effective policy and practical solutions that work on the ground, according to Indian conservationist Praveen Bhargav, Managing Trustee of Wildlife First.

Bhargav is in Colombo at the invitation of the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society (WNPS) and delivered a special World Elephant Day lecture, focusing on elephant conservation, India’s policy and legal framework and conservation interventions that have produced positive results.

Speaking exclusively to The Sunday Island, Bhargav said the real challenge today was not merely identifying the problems confronting elephants, but finding workable solutions.

“The real need is to try and present or offer solutions to the many challenges that face us,” he said, stressing the importance of a solutions-driven approach that could also assist policymakers and others responsible for taking decisions.

Bhargav said understanding the ecological and scientific dimensions of conservation was vital because the present generation had a responsibility to protect wildlife and hand it over to future generations.

“This generation has a great responsibility to conserve what is there and hand it over in trust to the next generation. And that’s a huge responsibility on all our shoulders,” he said.

While emotion was an important part of wildlife conservation, he said it could not replace science and data.

“While emotion is certainly important, because nothing will work without an emotional link to the issue at hand—in this case, elephants—but going beyond emotion, we need to be very, very clear in terms of what is the data and scientific insights that we have today,” Bhargav said.

He also stressed the need to acknowledge gaps in knowledge and encourage scientists to focus research on areas where reliable information was deficient.

One of the biggest challenges facing elephants and other large mammals, he said, was habitat fragmentation.

Although countries across the elephant range had laws and mechanisms to curb hunting, illegal wildlife trade and other direct threats, protecting elephants from direct killing was only one part of the conservation equation.

“Their habitat needs to be conserved,” Bhargav said, pointing out that elephants are mega-herbivores requiring large areas in which to move.

The challenge before conservationists and policymakers, therefore, was to balance the ecological requirements of elephants with society’s legitimate needs for development and livelihoods.

“This is where I believe that good science and data must be applied to come up with a credible solution in order to ensure that the interests of these endangered species are taken care of without, of course, affecting the needs of people, whether it is development or livelihood,” he said.

Bhargav argued that policy decisions must have strong ecological foundations. Even decisions taken with good intentions could have unintended consequences if they were not scientifically validated.

“Without proper ecological underpinnings in policy, we may be taking the wrong decision. Intentionally it may be good, but we may be going in the wrong direction,” he said.

India’s experience, he explained, provides several examples of practical interventions aimed at restoring and strengthening fragmented wildlife habitats.

One such intervention is the voluntary resettlement of people from critical wildlife areas with appropriate incentives. Bhargav said this process was helping in certain parts of India to reconnect fragmented habitats.

Another important intervention has been the scientific identification and assessment of elephant corridors and colonies, followed by efforts to secure critical areas so elephants can move across their natural range.

“It’s not that there are no problems. Conservation will also be eternally working with problems. But thankfully this is being recognised and it’s being implemented on the ground. And we are seeing positive steps in that direction,” he said.

Bhargav urged conservationists not to become despondent because progress in wildlife conservation is necessarily gradual.

“I believe that there are solutions and we as conservationists need to work with the system to ensure that those solutions reach or fructify on the ground,” he said.

“Conservation is not a T20 game. It’s a marathon. You need to keep playing. You need to be at it. And that’s when these changes do percolate to ground level.”

A key principle, according to Bhargav, is that conservation solutions must be site-specific. An intervention that succeeds in one location may be unsuitable or unnecessary elsewhere.

“We need to, as conservationists, use science, data, knowledge and ensure that site-specific solutions are crafted,” he said.

He also advocated calibrated approaches, where measures could be introduced progressively rather than attempting to implement everything at once.

Keeping “a finger on the pulse” of what is happening on the ground is equally important, he said, because conservation decisions made without understanding local realities risk operating in a vacuum.

Bhargav also emphasised the importance of scientifically estimating wildlife populations. He noted that wildlife monitoring had progressed from total counts towards sampling-based assessments.

“These rigorous estimations are absolutely essential to find out whether we are heading in the right direction or not,” he said.

Ultimately, the most important measure of a conservation policy, he said, was whether wildlife populations and their habitats were actually benefiting.

Bhargav’s conservation work has also involved policy advocacy at the highest levels in India. He has served on the National Board for Wildlife and on expert committees, while Wildlife First has continued to engage with the government on conservation issues.

One example, he highlighted, was India’s approach to linear infrastructure, such as roads and power transmission lines.

While recognising that infrastructure is necessary for development, Bhargav said the first principle should be avoidance—wherever possible, important wildlife areas should not be crossed by major infrastructure.

Where avoidance is impossible, mitigation measures, such as wildlife overpasses, underpasses and appropriate infrastructure designs can reduce impacts.

He said this approach had subsequently become part of government policy, with projects being redesigned in some cases to reduce disruption to wildlife corridors.

In one case, he pointed to the construction of an elevated highway through a critical wildlife corridor, allowing animals to continue moving at ground level while traffic passed above.

“These are kind of interventions that are essential in order to carefully balance both the competing needs,” he said.

Bhargav also stressed that wildlife protection requires “eternal vigilance”, particularly against illegal wildlife trade.

“We can never say that we have won the battle against illegal wildlife trade. We need to be constantly on guard.”

He mentioned that India had a specialised Wildlife Crime Control Bureau and that recent legal changes had strengthened the ability of enforcement agencies to deal with wildlife-related offences.

Bhargav has also been involved in training customs officials on wildlife-related issues.

Despite continuing pressures, he remained optimistic about the future of conservation.

“I’m not saying there’s no pressure. But one should not get despondent and disappointed that, oh, nothing is happening, everything is going wrong. No. We are making progress,” he said.

“There is advancement in science. Some of it is getting into policy. Some actions are being taken on the ground.”

However, he cautioned that progress should never lead to complacency.

“We can’t let our guard down,” he said, stressing the continuing role of civil society in working constructively towards conservation.

Bhargav said his visit to Sri Lanka was his first and that he was keen to learn more about the country’s elephant conservation challenges through discussions with WNPS and others.

He had not yet held discussions with Sri Lankan government officials, although he understood that some officials might attend his World Elephant Day lecture.

Asked what message he would have for Sri Lankan policymakers and wildlife officials, Bhargav returned to the central theme of his approach: knowledge-driven, site-specific conservation.

“Good knowledge to drive policy. And a threadbare assessment is essential,” he said.

“We need to have site-specific solutions, which is very important, in order to ensure that things are changed, we bring about a change on the ground.”

His message ultimately was one of optimism—but optimism accompanied by responsibility.

“Let’s be positive. Let us be positive. Because we do have the strength,” Bhargav said.

Across the world, he noted, there was considerable concern about saving endangered species, and that goodwill should be harnessed to strengthen conservation.

“I believe that that is possible,” he said.

 

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Vietnam meets Sri Lanka: Two destinations one beautiful journey

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Ambassador Trinh Thi Tam at a Viet Nam tourism promotion event held at the Kingsbury Hotel

By Zanita Careem

From the timeless charm of Vietnam’s ancient cities and emerald landscapes to Sri Lanka’s golden beaches, misty tea hills and rich cultural heritages, two captivating Asian destinations are finding new ways to bring their world’s closer. Tourism is emerging as a particularly glamorous bridge between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka, offering travellers the promise of culture, cuisine, wellness, adventure and unforgettable experiences. There is a strengthening of tourism relationship between the two countries taking centre stage.

In this exclusive interview with the Ambassador of Viet Nam to Sri Lanka Trinh Thi Tam, we explored the beauty of this emerging tourism partnerships, the experiences that could entice Sri Lankan travellers to Viet Nam, and welcoming more Vietnamese visitors to Sri Lanka.

(Q) How would you describe the current tourism relationship between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka?

(A) Tourism is one of the most promising areas of cooperation between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka. Our two countries share rich histories, cultures and Buddhist traditions, while offering distinct travel experiences. This makes our two destinations complementary rather than competitive.

In the first seven months of 2026, nearly 5,000 Vietnamese visitors came to Sri Lanka, compared with around 4,000 for the whole of 2025. Viet Nam also welcomed nearly 9,000 Sri Lankan visitors in the first seven months of 2026.

Tourism is growing, but there is still considerable room for expansion. Better air connectivity, stronger promotion and closer cooperation between travel companies can help make tourism a major pillar of our bilateral relationship.

(Q) How significant are the new direct flights between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka?

(A) The new direct flights are a major step forward for tourism relations between our two countries.

For many years, the lack of direct air connectivity was one of the main obstacles. Although Viet Nam and Sri Lanka are geographically close, travellers often had to transit through a third country, adding time, cost and inconvenience.

(Q) Do you expect the new air connectivity to bring a significant increase in Vietnamese tourists to Sri Lanka?

(A) We are already seeing encouraging signs. As mentioned earlier, in the first seven months of 2026, nearly 5,000 Vietnamese visitors came to Sri Lanka, compared with around 4,000 for the whole of 2025. This shows that interest in Sri Lanka is growing even before direct connectivity is fully established.

Viet Nam is also a large and growing outbound tourism market, with a population of more than 100 million and a rapidly expanding middle class. Vietnamese travellers are increasingly looking for new destinations and experiences. Sri Lanka has many products that can appeal to them, including Buddhist pilgrimage, beaches, wildlife, tea plantations, cultural heritage, wellness and cuisine.

(Q) What aspects of Sri Lanka do you think appeal most to Vietnamese travellers?

(A) Sri Lanka offers a particularly attractive combination of culture, spirituality, nature and hospitality.

First is culture and history. Vietnamese travellers value destinations with a long history and strong cultural identity. Sri Lanka offers ancient cities, temples, UNESCO heritage sites and traditions preserved over centuries.

Second is Buddhism. This is particularly important. Viet Nam has a large Buddhist community, and many Vietnamese people are interested in visiting important Buddhist sites.

Third is nature. Despite its relatively small size, Sri Lanka offers a remarkable variety of landscapes and experiences, from beaches and mountains to tea plantations, forests and wildlife. Visitors can see elephants, whales and many other species.

And I would add that Vietnamese travellers value friendliness and hospitality. Sri Lankans are warm and welcoming, which adds greatly to their travel experience.

Finally, Sri Lanka offers something different. Vietnamese travellers are familiar with many destinations in East and Southeast Asia. Sri Lanka provides a new experience while retaining cultural and spiritual connections that Vietnamese visitors can easily appreciate.

(Q) How important is Buddhist tourism in attracting Vietnamese visitors to Sri Lanka?

(A) Buddhist tourism could become one of the strongest tourism links between our two countries.

Sri Lanka has a special place in the history of Theravada Buddhism. Vietnamese pilgrims and Buddhist followers are interested in visiting sacred places such as Anuradhapura, Kandy and other important Buddhist sites.

At the same time, interest in spiritual and cultural travel is growing in Viet Nam. Many travellers are looking not only for a holiday, but also for meaningful experiences.

Ambassador Trinh Thi Tam at Hotel Show Colombo 2026, with Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe Deputy Minister of tourism

This is an area where Viet Nam and Sri Lanka have a natural advantage. The historical and spiritual connection already exists. Our task is to turn that connection into practical and attractive tourism products.

(Q) Do you see potential for Vietnamese investment in Sri Lanka’s tourism?

(A) Vietnamese companies are increasingly exploring international markets, and tourism is one area where Sri Lanka could attract Vietnamese investment. Vietnamese companies also have experience in destination development, hospitality, transport and tourism infrastructure.

Sri Lanka has a strong tourism base, but there is still significant room for new investment in hotels and resorts, eco-tourism, wellness, entertainment, food services, tourism technology and integrated tourism projects.

. Joint ventures with Sri Lankan partners could be particularly useful, combining Vietnamese capital, business experience and marketing capacity with Sri Lanka’s destinations and local expertise.

(Q) How can both countries encourage more Sri Lankan tourists to visit Vietnam?

(A) The key is to make Viet Nam more visible and easier for Sri Lankan travellers to discover.

Viet Nam already offers many attractive products, including culture, beaches, cuisine, shopping, nature and Buddhist heritage. We should also develop tourism packages tailored to the Sri Lankan market.

Direct flights will be important, but promotion is equally essential. Sri Lankan travel companies, airlines and media should have more opportunities to visit Viet Nam and experience its destinations first-hand.

(Q) How can Sri Lanka attract Vietnamese travellers beyond Colombo and the traditional tourist attractions?

(A) Sri Lanka should be presented to Vietnamese travellers not simply as Colombo and a few famous attractions, but as an island offering a wide range of experiences.

Kandy can be promoted through its Buddhist heritage and cultural traditions. Sigiriya and Dambulla offer history and heritage, while the hill country combines tea plantations, scenic landscapes and memorable train journeys.

For nature lovers, Sri Lanka offers wildlife and safari experiences. Younger travellers can enjoy beaches, surfing, hiking and other adventure activities.

Wellness and food tourism also have strong potential. Vietnamese travellers increasingly seek experiences rather than simply sightseeing. They want to meet local people, taste local food and discover less crowded destinations.

The industry could, therefore, develop flexible packages tailored to different interests, including Buddhist pilgrimage, culture, nature, beaches, wildlife, wellness and luxury travel.

(Q) What potential do you see for MICE tourism, destination weddings and luxury tourism between the two countries?

(A) Both Viet Nam and Sri Lanka are becoming increasingly attractive destinations for higher-value tourism. Sri Lanka’s beaches, resorts, cultural sites and scenic landscapes are well suited to weddings, honeymoons and luxury holidays.

MICE tourism is another promising area. Vietnamese companies are increasingly organising conferences, incentive trips and team-building programmes abroad. Sri Lanka can offer a combination of business facilities and leisure experiences.

Destination weddings could be particularly promising. Sri Lanka offers beaches, luxury hotels, cultural settings and beautiful landscapes, while Vietnamese couples are increasingly interested in overseas weddings and honeymoons. Vietnnam has recently become a destination for weddings of many Indian couples.

The key is to offer complete packages rather than individual services. Hotels, airlines, travel agencies and event organisers should work together to provide a seamless experience.

(Q) How can both countries promote sustainable and responsible tourism while increasing visitor numbers?

(A) I believe tourism growth and sustainability must go hand in hand.

Tourism should create income and jobs while protecting the environment and respecting local communities. Sri Lanka’s beaches, forests, wildlife and cultural heritage are the foundation of its tourism industry. Protecting these assets is, therefore, essential.

Both countries can share experience in eco-tourism, waste management, marine conservation and responsible tourism.

The goal should not simply be more tourists, but better tourism.

(Q) Should Sri Lanka increase its presence at Vietnamese tourism fairs and travel destinations?

(A) Viet Nam has a large and increasingly sophisticated tourism market, and Sri Lanka should have a stronger and more regular presence there. The Sri Lankan Embassy in Hanoi has already organised tourism promotion activities involving Vietnamese travel agents and industry representatives. In 2025, a familiarisation trip also brought 20 leading Vietnamese travel agents to Sri Lanka.

These are useful initiatives, and I believe we should build on them.

Sri Lanka should participate regularly in major Vietnamese tourism fairs. I would also encourage direct promotion in key tourism markets such as Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Da Nang, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc, among others.

(Q) What would your vision for Vietnam–Sri Lanka tourism be five years from now?

(A) I would like tourism to become one of the strongest pillars of the Viet Nam–Sri Lanka Comprehensive Partnership.

I would like to see regular and convenient direct air connectivity between our major cities, with many more Vietnamese tourists discovering Sri Lanka and many more Sri Lankan tourists visiting Viet Nam.

I would also like to see more specialised tourism products, including Buddhist pilgrimage, cultural tourism, eco-tourism, wellness, luxury travel, MICE and destination weddings.

Tourism can create investment, jobs and new services. Most importantly, it can bring our people closer and deepen mutual understanding.

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Inside the world of heart care with Dr. Haniffa

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By Zanita Careem

Dr. Zacky Haniffa, Secretary to Sri Lanka College of Cardiology at Durden’s Hospital, is a distinguished Royal College alumnus who graduated from the University of Colombo and furthered his medical education in London.With his expertise and dedication to cardiac care, he has made a meaningful contribution to the field of heart health. His work reflects the growing importance of early detection, preventive care and greater public awareness of cardio vascular disease, In an exclusive interview with Zanita Careem, Dr. Haniffa speaks about his medical journey and the importance of protecting the heart through greater awareness, early detection and timely care. From understanding risk factors to encouraging people to take charge of their health, before symptoms appear, he offers a timely and valuable perspective on protecting the heart. His association with Durdans Hospital adds another dimension to his career, connecting his expertise with one of o Sri Lanka’s long established private healthcare services, Durdans, founded in 1945, has developed a reputation for medical excellence and innovation.

(Q)What are the most common heart conditions you see today?

(A)The most common problems we see are coronary artery disease, heart attacks, high blood pressure, heart failure and abnormal heart rhythms (beating). We also see a significant number of patients with heart-valve problems.

Globally, cardiovascular disease remains the leading cause of death, with approximately 20.5 million deaths in 2025. The encouraging news is that a large proportion of cardiovascular disease is preventable.

(Q) Why is heart disease increasing among younger adults?

(A) Young people often feel, “I am young, so nothing can happen to me.” That is a dangerous assumption.

Heart disease is not only a disease of old age anymore. I am seeing many younger people with risk factors, such as diabetes, high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and obesity.

Further, our lifestyle has changed dramatically. We are sitting more, moving less, eating more processed and high-calorie food, sleeping poorly and living under considerable stress. Smoking, alcohol, other illicit drugs also remain important risks.

Your 20s and 30s are not too early to start looking after their heart. They are exactly the right time.

(Q) What are the biggest risk factors people tend to ignore?

(A) As mentioned, the biggest ones are surprisingly ordinary: Smoking, high blood pressure, diabetes, high cholesterol, obesity, physical inactivity and an unhealthy diet.

The problem is that several of these cause no symptoms at all. They silently damage the blood vessels for many years before a person feels any symptoms.

(Q) How can people tell the difference between a heart attack and heartburn?

(A) Unfortunately, you cannot always tell the difference with certainty, based on symptoms alone.

Heartburn usually produces a burning sensation in the upper abdomen and or behind the breastbone, often related to meals or lying down. But a heart attack can also feel like burning, indigestion, heaviness or discomfort in the chest.

A heart attack may cause pressure, squeezing or discomfort in the centre of the chest, sometimes spreading to the arm, shoulder, back, neck or jaw. Breathlessness, sweating, nausea, dizziness or unusual weakness may also occur. The symptoms might be very subtle in elderly, diabetics and women.

My advice is simple: if you are unsure, do not assume it is gas.

It is far better to go to hospital and discover that it was heartburn than to stay at home thinking it was heartburn when it was actually a heart attack.

(Q) What are the early warning signs that should not be ignored?

(A) Never ignore new or unexplained chest discomfort, especially if it occurs with exertion or is associated with breathlessness, sweating, nausea, dizziness or pain spreading to the arm, back, neck or jaw.

Also pay attention to symptoms such as unusual breathlessness, unexplained reduction in exercise capacity, fainting, persistent palpitations or swelling of the legs.

Women, in particular, may sometimes have less typical symptoms, including unusual tiredness, nausea, breathlessness, back or jaw discomfort.

One of the biggest mistakes, I see, is people waiting to see whether the symptoms will disappear.

When it comes to a heart attack, time is heart muscle. The earlier treatment begins, the better the chance of saving heart muscle and saving a life.

(Q) What are the three most important habits for maintaining a healthy heart?

(A) If I had to reduce it to three things, I would say:

Move regularly. Eat sensibly. Don’t smoke.

And I would add a fourth: know your numbers—your blood pressure, blood sugar, cholesterol and Body Mass Index (BMI).

You don’t have to become a professional athlete or follow an impossibly strict diet. Small, consistent changes made over many years are much more powerful than occasional bursts of healthy living.

(Q) How much exercise is enough to maintain a healthy heart?

(A) For most adults, a good target is at least 150 minutes of moderate-intensity activity a week, such as brisk walking, or 75 minutes of vigorous activity. Ideally, add muscle-strengthening exercise at least twice a week.

That sounds like a lot, but it is only about 30 minutes on five days a week.

And please don’t think that exercise only counts if you go to a gym. Brisk walking, cycling, swimming, dancing, gardening and active household work all count.

If you currently do very little, don’t wait until you can do 30 minutes. Start with 10 minutes. Then build up. Some movement is better than none.

(Q) What role does diet play in preventing cardiovascular disease?

(A) Diet plays a huge role—but a heart-healthy diet does not have to be expensive or complicated.

Eat more vegetables, fruits, pulses, whole grains, nuts and fish, and reduce highly processed foods, sugary drinks, excess sugar, saturated fats and trans fats.

For Sri Lankans, I would emphasise one particular issue: salt. We traditionally use a lot of salt in cooking and may also consume considerable amounts through processed and packaged foods. WHO recommends keeping salt intake below five grams a day—roughly one teaspoon in total from all sources.

We don’t need to abandon our traditional food. We need to make our traditional food healthier—less salt, less oil, less sugar, more vegetables, more pulses and sensible portions.

(Q)How have advances in cardiology improved patient outcomes?

(A) The changes have been remarkable.

Today, we can diagnose heart disease much earlier and treat many conditions that were previously extremely difficult to manage.

For heart attacks, modern angioplasty and stenting can rapidly restore blood flow. Better imaging allows us to see the coronary arteries and heart structures in much greater detail. We have sophisticated treatments for heart failure, modern devices for abnormal rhythms and minimally invasive procedures for certain valve diseases.

Even in heart failure, the treatment landscape has changed enormously, with newer medicines.

The exciting part is that cardiology is moving increasingly toward earlier diagnosis, personalised treatment and less invasive procedures.

But I always tell my patients: the best heart attack is the one we prevent. Technology can save lives, but prevention is still more powerful than any procedure.

(Q) When is angioplasty recommended instead of open-heart surgery?

(A) Angioplasty—usually called PCI—is an excellent treatment for many patients, particularly during an acute heart attack, when reopening a blocked artery quickly can be lifesaving.

But angioplasty is not automatically better than bypass surgery.

The decision depends on the number and location of blocked arteries, the complexity of the disease, diabetes, heart function, age, other medical conditions and the patient’s overall situation.

Recent evidence continues to support making this decision individually rather than taking a “one treatment fits everyone” approach.

The important thing is that the decision should be made by the heart team and the patient together, based on the best available evidence.

(Q) What are the biggest misconceptions people have about heart disease?

(A) There are many.

“Heart disease happens only to old people.”

Not true.

“If I feel healthy, my heart must be healthy.”

Not necessarily. High blood pressure and high cholesterol can remain silent for years.

“I don’t smoke, so I don’t have to worry.”

Not true. Smoking is one risk factor among many.

“Heart disease is mainly a man’s disease.”

Definitely not. Women can develop serious heart disease, and their symptoms may sometimes be overlooked.

“If I have a heart problem, I should avoid exercise.”

Many heart patients actually benefit greatly from appropriate physical activity and cardiac rehabilitation, under medical guidance.

“I’ll see a doctor if it gets worse.”

For a heart attack, waiting can cost precious heart muscle and the life.

(Q) Is there a patient story that changed your perspective as a doctor?

(A) I think every cardiologist has patients who stay with them long after they leave the hospital.

“One patient I will never forget was a 31-year-old young father who came to the emergency department around midnight with severe chest pain, accompanied by his 26-year-old wife and their six-month-old baby.

His ECG showed a major heart attack. We immediately took him for angioplasty and successfully opened a completely blocked coronary artery.

The next morning, I saw him smiling in the ICU bed. Three days later, he walked out of the hospital completely well.

Secretary to Sri Lanka College of Cardiology

That experience reminded me that behind every blocked artery is a person, a family, and an entire life that can change within minutes. It reinforced why, as doctors, we must act decisively and quickly—but never lose sight of the human story behind the disease.

What changes us as doctors is not simply seeing a heart attack—it is seeing what that heart means to a family.

I have seen patients who arrived frightened and critically ill, and then, after treatment, return months later with their families, smiling and grateful simply to be alive.

Those moments remind me that we are not treating an ECG, an angiogram or an echocardiogram. We are treating a person—a parent, a husband, a wife, a son or a daughter.

Medicine has technology, machines and procedures, but ultimately it is about giving someone more time with the people they love.

(Q) What message would you like to share with Sri Lankans about preventing a heart attack?

(A) My message is very simple:

Please don’t wait for your heart to give you a warning before you start taking care of it.

Know your blood pressure. Know your cholesterol. Check your blood sugar. Don’t smoke. Keep your weight under control. Walk every day. Eat less salt and processed food. Eat more vegetables, fruit and pulses. Sleep properly. And if you have been prescribed medication for blood pressure, diabetes or cholesterol, take it regularly rather than stopping when you feel better.

And if you develop symptoms suggestive of a heart attack, don’t wait at home and don’t try to diagnose yourself. Seek emergency medical care immediately.

We cannot choose our genes, gender or our age. But we can choose many of the things we do every day.

(Q) What inspired you to specialise in cardiology?

(A) What attracted me to cardiology was the combination of science, technology, urgency and, most importantly, the opportunity to make an immediate difference in someone’s life.

There are very few areas of medicine where you can see a patient arrive critically ill and, within a short period of time, use modern medicine to restore blood flow, correct a dangerous rhythm or stabilise a failing heart.

But over the years, what has kept me passionate about cardiology is not simply the technology.

It is the people.

Every patient reminds you that behind every heartbeat there is a life, a family and a story.

(Q) What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

(A) Without question, seeing patients return to their normal lives.

A successful procedure is satisfying, but seeing a patient come back months or years later and say, “Doctor, I am working again, I am walking again, I am watching my grandchildren grow up”—that is the real reward.

As doctors, we sometimes focus on numbers: the ECG, the blood pressure, the cholesterol level, the ejection fraction, the angiogram.

But ultimately, the greatest outcome is not a perfect test result. It is a person getting back to living their life.

That is why I believe cardiology is not only about treating heart disease. It is about protecting the life that depends on that heart.

In summary:

“I would like people to remember one thing: your heart does not suddenly become unhealthy on the day you have a heart attack. The process often begins many years earlier, silently. That means we have a tremendous opportunity to prevent it.

Please don’t wait for symptoms. Know your numbers, move your body, eat sensibly, don’t smoke, and seek help early when something doesn’t feel right.

We cannot prevent every heart problem, but we can prevent many heart attacks and strokes. And sometimes a small decision made today—going for a walk, checking your blood pressure, stopping smoking, reducing salt, or seeing your doctor—can give you many more years with the people you love.”

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