Features
A Tourist in Iraq
Part Three PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER
Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
When the 52 new recruits of Hotel Babylon Oberoi found themselves at a standstill, awaiting the final nod on their work permits, disappointment hung heavy in the air. The unforeseen two-week delay cast a shadow of uncertainty over our heads. Yet, rather than succumbing to frustration, I saw it as an opportunity—an unexpected window to explore the wonders of Iraq.
As we awaited bureaucratic clearance, I resolved to seize this hiatus as a chance to immerse myself in the rich tapestry of Iraqi culture. Having traversed much of the European Union, delved into Eastern Europe, wandered through Asia, and ventured into Africa briefly, the Middle East beckoned as the next chapter in my global odyssey. And what better place to begin than the vibrant heart of Baghdad?
With a thirst for knowledge and a hunger for adventure, I set out to uncover the layers of history and tradition that have shaped this land, despite its recent years of isolation due to conflict. It was time to embrace the warmth of Iraqi hospitality, delve into its ancient heritage, and unravel the mysteries hidden within its bustling streets and beyond…
Baghdad’s Treasures
Venturing beyond the confines of our hotel, we encountered an initial obstacle. A group of stern-faced police officers halted our progress, reminding us of the restricted zones that barred non-Iraqis. Undeterred, we quickly learned to navigate the city’s streets via taxi, ensuring our excursions continued unhindered.
Our curiosity led us to Baghdad’s renowned mosques, each a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. Yet, it was the allure of the national museum that truly captivated our interest. En route, our taxi driver insisted on a brief detour through the storied lanes of old Baghdad.
Al-Mutanabbi Street unfolded before us, a testament to centuries of literary legacy. Named after the revered 10th-century poet, Abul Tayeb al-Mutanabbi, the thoroughfare exuded an aura of historical significance. At its entrance stood an arch embellished with verses from the poet’s timeless works. An imposing bronze statue of al-Mutanabbi surveyed the flowing waters of the Tigris River which had influenced civilization throughout the known history of humanity.
- The Ishtar Gate
- The Lion of Babylon
Al-Mutanabbi’s literary prowess remains unmatched in the annals of Arabic literature. His verses, though often lauding the rulers of his era, bear testament to his sharp intellect and unparalleled wit. Through his poetry, he explored the intricacies of life’s philosophy, extolled the valour revered by Arab poets, and vividly depicted the tumultuous battles of his time. Yet, amidst the grandeur of his epic compositions, his verses also resonated with romance, adorned with exquisite similes and metaphors that continue to enrapture readers to this day. He says in one of his poems:
“The watchmen are not worried about the persons who visit you in the darkness because you are so beautiful and shining that you radiate in the darkness and anybody who meets you in the darkness is seen by your radiance. My beloved is very beautiful, and a very beautiful fragrance of musk is always emitted from her body as if she is made of musk. She is bright like the sun.”
The Iraq Museum nestles within the heart of Baghdad and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Mesopotamian civilization. Here, amid the echoes of ancient glory, the narrative of humanity’s journey unfolds amidst the relics of empires long past.
Inscribed upon the walls of this venerable institution is a history marked not only by triumphs and achievements but also by the sombre shadows of conflict and turmoil. Wars, with their crimson tide, have often marred the landscape where once peace, doves, and flowers flourished.
The museum’s history traces back to the aftermath of World War I, when European and American archaeologists embarked on expeditions that unearthed the treasures of Mesopotamia. In 1926, the Baghdad Archaeological Museum opened its doors, heralding the dawn of a new era in cultural preservation. By 1966, its expansive collection found a grand abode in the Al-Salihiyyah District, evolving into the renowned Iraq Museum. Within its hallowed halls reside the marvels of Babylonian, Sumerian, and Assyrian civilizations, alongside precious Islamic manuscripts, each whispering tales of bygone epochs.
The Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s forced its closure, compelling curators to safeguard its treasures from the ravages of conflict. Emerging unscathed, albeit sombre, it reopened its doors to a world hungry for knowledge and enlightenment, during the time I lived in Baghdad.
However, long after my time in Iraq, the dawn of the new millennium brought forth a harrowing chapter in the history of this museum. The looting that ensued during the chaos of the 2003 invasion stirred the echoes of ancient lamentations, as priceless artifacts vanished into the annals of uncertainty. Though the extent of the loss remains a subject of debate, the scars of that tumultuous period linger as a reminder of the fragility of our shared heritage.
As there were no signs of our work permits arriving, I suggested to a few of my colleagues, “let’s explore Babylon tomorrow,” but only a handful joined as others were pre-occupied with anxiety over the work permit challenge.
An Excursion in Babylon
Our quest for the ancient marvels of Babylon commenced with the break of dawn. Venturing some 100 kilometres south of Baghdad, we found ourselves amidst the remnants of a once-majestic civilization, nestled alongside the modern city of Al-Ḥillah. Babylon, an epitome of antiquity, stood proudly upon the banks of the Hilla branch of the Euphrates River, surrounded by a verdant expanse nourished by the waters of the Hilla canal.
Dating back to around 2,000 BCE, Babylon bore witness to the ebb and flow of empires across millennia. Under the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, its splendour reached unparalleled heights. His legacy, immortalized in the annals of history, adorned the city with three opulent palaces, resplendent in blue and yellow glazed tiles. The grandeur of Babylon, the city inside the walls occupied an area of 200 square miles encompassing an area roughly equivalent to modern-day Chicago, stood as a testament to human ingenuity and ambition, 4,000 years prior to our time.
Yet, the passage of time had not been kind to Babylon. Centuries of upheaval and plunder had stripped it of many treasures, smuggled away by European hands long ago. Under Saddam Hussein’s rule, efforts were made to resurrect the ancient city, albeit with mixed success.
The Ishtar Gate is central to Babylon’s allure, a marvel of ancient engineering and artistry. The Ishtar Gate was the eighth gate and the main entrance to the inner city of Babylon. Adorned with vibrant depictions of gods and goddesses, it stood as the portal to the city’s grand Processional Way, a path steeped in religious significance during the annual New Year celebrations. Lined with walls showing about 120 lions, bulls, dragons, and flowers on yellow and black glazed bricks, it symbolized the goddess Ishtar. Around the dawn of the twentieth century, excavations by German archaeologists had unearthed remnants of the gate.
King Nebuchadnezzar II also built several shrines, the largest of which, called Esagil, was dedicated to Marduk. The shrine stood 280 feet tall, nearly the size of a 26-story office building. Similarly elusive were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, revered as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Despite extensive searches, their precise location and existence remained shrouded in mystery. I was happy that the famous rooftop bar at Hotel Babylon Oberoi – ‘Hanging Gardens’ came within my portfolio.
The Lion of Babylon was among the few tangible relics of Babylon’s past, a stone sculpture dating back over 3,600 years. Carved from black basalt and weighing a staggering 7,000 kilograms, it depicted a Mesopotamian lion in a provocative pose above a supine human figure. The postures of the lion and human strongly suggest that they are having sexual intercourse. The statue is considered among the most important symbols of Babylon and Mesopotamian art in general. Rich in symbolism and heritage, the statue stood as a testament to Babylon’s enduring legacy, revered as a national symbol of Iraq.
As we immersed ourselves in the echoes of antiquity, the allure of Babylon’s storied past enveloped us. Amidst the ruins and relics, we glimpsed fragments of a civilization lost to time, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit across the ages. And as we retraced our steps back to Baghdad, the legacy of Babylon lingered in our hearts, a reminder of the enduring power of history to captivate and be inspired.
Exploring Northern Iraq
With work permits still pending, I found myself embarking on a journey to Mosul, Iraq’s second-largest city (with a population of 700,000 in 1989, and 1.8 million in 2024), under the directions of Madan Misra, the astute General Manager. Situated some 400 kilometres north of Baghdad along the banks of the Tigris River, Mosul held a storied past as the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh, once the world’s largest metropolis.
Mosul is the major city in Northern Iraq. In 1989, Mosul stood as a vibrant cultural hub, blending historical richness with modern vitality. Its strategic location has long made it a nexus of trade and travel, with the majestic Mosul Dam serving as a testament to its enduring significance. The city’s annual spring events drew crowds from far and wide, infusing its streets with a palpable energy.
Returning from Mosul, my boss Misra, ever the discerning leader, sought my insights into the Nineveh Oberoi Hotel, a five-star hotel he oversaw. “Mr. Jayawardena, I must use your suggestions, wisely. You are new here and your eyes are fresh. Give me all details!”, he pushed me when I spoke diplomatically and gave him an edited version of my observations. Impressed with my extended feedback, Misra entrusted me with a new task: to evaluate a neglected resort hotel in Dokan, nestled near the Iranian border. He was eager to capitalize on potential opportunities for Oberoi business expansion in Iraq.
Although two hotels I managed in the past as General Manager – The Lodge and The Village at Habarana were not internationally branded, Misra knew that those were two of the largest and the best resort hotels in Sri Lanka. “Mr. Jayawardena, you are the only person in my team in Iraq who had been a hotel General Manager. Therefore, I am going to pick your brains from time to time!” I was pleased to hear that from my boss.
Embarking on the scenic journey northward towards Dokan, we marvelled at the diversity of the landscape. We paused for a refreshing dip at a lake and a sumptuous Kurdish lunch in Kirkuk, a city renowned for its multicultural tapestry. It is now identified as the ‘Jerusalem of Kurdistan’. Arriving in Dokan, we were greeted by the serene beauty of its surroundings, enhanced by the sparkling expanse of the Dokan Lake.
Marlon and I having a quick lake dip
Despite its natural allure, the resort in Dokan itself fell short of Oberoi standards, requiring substantial investment to meet the luxury benchmarks upheld by the brand. In my detailed report to Misra, I advised against Oberoi’s involvement in managing that property, recognizing the need for alignment with the company’s esteemed reputation and vision.
Re-commencing Painting
On returning to Baghdad, we were now counting nine days without formal work permits. I did not want to waste any time just idling. I decided to focus on an old hobby of mine – visual arts. At one point when I was 17-years old I displayed promise as a painter and a sculptor. My parents (who were both artists) and I discussed the option of my joining Heywood Art School in Ceylon (now the University of the Visual and Performing Arts) and becoming a professional painter and a sculptor. Instead, I joined Ceylon Hotel School and became a hotelier. However, back in my mind, I always wanted one day to become a semi-professional visual artist (which I am now).
In the mid-1980s, I took some private lessons from a veteran painter, Stanley Abeysinghe, who was a Past Principal of Heywood Art School, and a friend of my father. In Baghdad I started doing small paintings and encouraged my son, Marlon, to paint with me, as my father did, when I was Marlon’s age. After a few days, we had produced around twenty small abstract paintings on paper. Ignoring my wife’s annoyance, Marlon and I decorated a wall in our family suite with those paintings. Marlon called that wall, ‘Our Art Gallery’, and proudly encouraged any visitor to our suit to enjoy our artwork, and comment.
Finally, Allowed to Work
After 14 days of ‘no work’, we received the good news. Work permits for all 52 hotel employees who came from Sri Lanka had been approved by the Iraqi authorities. We were happy about it, and I was even more happy about the two ‘work-free’ weeks which allowed us to explore Iraq as tourists.
I immediately called a management meeting of my division and recommenced implementing our business plans, with my team. “Let’s create and promote a series of international food festivals with themes preferred by our Iraqi customers,” I motivated the team. We agreed to create a buzz and present food festivals and entertainment that Baghdad had never experienced before at a five-star hotel…
Features
Challenges faced by the media in South Asia in fostering regionalism
SAARC or the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation has been declared ‘dead’ by some sections in South Asia and the idea seems to be catching on. Over the years the evidence seems to have been building that this is so, but a matter that requires thorough probing is whether the media in South Asia, given the vital part it could play in fostering regional amity, has had a role too in bringing about SAARC’s apparent demise.
That South Asian governments have had a hand in the ‘SAARC debacle’ is plain to see. For example, it is beyond doubt that the India-Pakistan rivalry has invariably got in the way, particularly over the past 15 years or thereabouts, of the Indian and Pakistani governments sitting at the negotiating table and in a spirit of reconciliation resolving the vexatious issues growing out of the SAARC exercise. The inaction had a paralyzing effect on the organization.
Unfortunately the rest of South Asian governments too have not seen it to be in the collective interest of the region to explore ways of jump-starting the SAARC process and sustaining it. That is, a lack of statesmanship on the part of the SAARC Eight is clearly in evidence. Narrow national interests have been allowed to hijack and derail the cooperative process that ought to be at the heart of the SAARC initiative.
However, a dimension that has hitherto gone comparatively unaddressed is the largely negative role sections of the media in the SAARC region could play in debilitating regional cooperation and amity. We had some thought-provoking ‘takes’ on this question recently from Roman Gautam, the editor of ‘Himal Southasian’.
Gautam was delivering the third of talks on February 2nd in the RCSS Strategic Dialogue Series under the aegis of the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies, Colombo, at the latter’s conference hall. The forum was ably presided over by RCSS Executive Director and Ambassador (Retd.) Ravinatha Aryasinha who, among other things, ensured lively participation on the part of the attendees at the Q&A which followed the main presentation. The talk was titled, ‘Where does the media stand in connecting (or dividing) Southasia?’.
Gautam singled out those sections of the Indian media that are tamely subservient to Indian governments, including those that are professedly independent, for the glaring lack of, among other things, regionalism or collective amity within South Asia. These sections of the media, it was pointed out, pander easily to the narratives framed by the Indian centre on developments in the region and fall easy prey, as it were, to the nationalist forces that are supportive of the latter. Consequently, divisive forces within the region receive a boost which is hugely detrimental to regional cooperation.
Two cases in point, Gautam pointed out, were the recent political upheavals in Nepal and Bangladesh. In each of these cases stray opinions favorable to India voiced by a few participants in the relevant protests were clung on to by sections of the Indian media covering these trouble spots. In the case of Nepal, to consider one example, a young protester’s single comment to the effect that Nepal too needed a firm leader like Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi was seized upon by the Indian media and fed to audiences at home in a sensational, exaggerated fashion. No effort was made by the Indian media to canvass more opinions on this matter or to extensively research the issue.
In the case of Bangladesh, widely held rumours that the Hindus in the country were being hunted and killed, pogrom fashion, and that the crisis was all about this was propagated by the relevant sections of the Indian media. This was a clear pandering to religious extremist sentiment in India. Once again, essentially hearsay stories were given prominence with hardly any effort at understanding what the crisis was really all about. There is no doubt that anti-Muslim sentiment in India would have been further fueled.
Gautam was of the view that, in the main, it is fear of victimization of the relevant sections of the media by the Indian centre and anxiety over financial reprisals and like punitive measures by the latter that prompted the media to frame their narratives in these terms. It is important to keep in mind these ‘structures’ within which the Indian media works, we were told. The issue in other words, is a question of the media completely subjugating themselves to the ruling powers.
Basically, the need for financial survival on the part of the Indian media, it was pointed out, prompted it to subscribe to the prejudices and partialities of the Indian centre. A failure to abide by the official line could spell financial ruin for the media.
A principal question that occurred to this columnist was whether the ‘Indian media’ referred to by Gautam referred to the totality of the Indian media or whether he had in mind some divisive, chauvinistic and narrow-based elements within it. If the latter is the case it would not be fair to generalize one’s comments to cover the entirety of the Indian media. Nevertheless, it is a matter for further research.
However, an overall point made by the speaker that as a result of the above referred to negative media practices South Asian regionalism has suffered badly needs to be taken. Certainly, as matters stand currently, there is a very real information gap about South Asian realities among South Asian publics and harmful media practices account considerably for such ignorance which gets in the way of South Asian cooperation and amity.
Moreover, divisive, chauvinistic media are widespread and active in South Asia. Sri Lanka has a fair share of this species of media and the latter are not doing the country any good, leave alone the region. All in all, the democratic spirit has gone well into decline all over the region.
The above is a huge problem that needs to be managed reflectively by democratic rulers and their allied publics in South Asia and the region’s more enlightened media could play a constructive role in taking up this challenge. The latter need to take the initiative to come together and deliberate on the questions at hand. To succeed in such efforts they do not need the backing of governments. What is of paramount importance is the vision and grit to go the extra mile.
Features
When the Wetland spoke after dusk
By Ifham Nizam
As the sun softened over Colombo and the city’s familiar noise began to loosen its grip, the Beddagana Wetland Park prepared for its quieter hour — the hour when wetlands speak in their own language.
World Wetlands Day was marked a little early this year, but time felt irrelevant at Beddagana. Nature lovers, students, scientists and seekers gathered not for a ceremony, but for listening. Partnering with Park authorities, Dilmah Conservation opened the wetland as a living classroom, inviting more than a 100 participants to step gently into an ecosystem that survives — and protects — a capital city.
Wetlands, it became clear, are not places of stillness. They are places of conversation.
Beyond the surface
In daylight, Beddagana appears serene — open water stitched with reeds, dragonflies hovering above green mirrors.
Yet beneath the surface lies an intricate architecture of life. Wetlands are not defined by water alone, but by relationships: fungi breaking down matter, insects pollinating and feeding, amphibians calling across seasons, birds nesting and mammals moving quietly between shadows.
Participants learned this not through lectures alone, but through touch, sound and careful observation. Simple water testing kits revealed the chemistry of urban survival. Camera traps hinted at lives lived mostly unseen.
Demonstrations of mist netting and cage trapping unfolded with care, revealing how science approaches nature not as an intruder, but as a listener.
Again and again, the lesson returned: nothing here exists in isolation.
Learning to listen
Perhaps the most profound discovery of the day was sound.
Wetlands speak constantly, but human ears are rarely tuned to their frequency. Researchers guided participants through the wetland’s soundscape — teaching them to recognise the rhythms of frogs, the punctuation of insects, the layered calls of birds settling for night.
Then came the inaudible made audible. Bat detectors translated ultrasonic echolocation into sound, turning invisible flight into pulses and clicks. Faces lit up with surprise. The air, once assumed empty, was suddenly full.
It was a moment of humility — proof that much of nature’s story unfolds beyond human perception.

Sethil on camera trapping
The city’s quiet protectors
Environmental researcher Narmadha Dangampola offered an image that lingered long after her words ended. Wetlands, she said, are like kidneys.
“They filter, cleanse and regulate,” she explained. “They protect the body of the city.”
Her analogy felt especially fitting at Beddagana, where concrete edges meet wild water.
She shared a rare confirmation: the Collared Scops Owl, unseen here for eight years, has returned — a fragile signal that when habitats are protected, life remembers the way back.
Small lives, large meanings
Professor Shaminda Fernando turned attention to creatures rarely celebrated. Small mammals — shy, fast, easily overlooked — are among the wetland’s most honest messengers.
Using Sherman traps, he demonstrated how scientists read these animals for clues: changes in numbers, movements, health.
In fragmented urban landscapes, small mammals speak early, he said. They warn before silence arrives.
Their presence, he reminded participants, is not incidental. It is evidence of balance.

Narmadha on water testing pH level
Wings in the dark
As twilight thickened, Dr. Tharaka Kusuminda introduced mist netting — fine, almost invisible nets used in bat research.
He spoke firmly about ethics and care, reminding all present that knowledge must never come at the cost of harm.
Bats, he said, are guardians of the night: pollinators, seed dispersers, controllers of insects. Misunderstood, often feared, yet indispensable.
“Handle them wrongly,” he cautioned, “and we lose more than data. We lose trust — between science and life.”
The missing voice
One of the evening’s quiet revelations came from Sanoj Wijayasekara, who spoke not of what is known, but of what is absent.
In other parts of the region — in India and beyond — researchers have recorded female frogs calling during reproduction. In Sri Lanka, no such call has yet been documented.
The silence, he suggested, may not be biological. It may be human.
“Perhaps we have not listened long enough,” he reflected.
The wetland, suddenly, felt like an unfinished manuscript — its pages alive with sound, waiting for patience rather than haste.
The overlooked brilliance of moths
Night drew moths into the light, and with them, a lesson from Nuwan Chathuranga. Moths, he said, are underestimated archivists of environmental change. Their diversity reveals air quality, plant health, climate shifts.
As wings brushed the darkness, it became clear that beauty often arrives quietly, without invitation.

Sanoj on female frogs
Coexisting with the wild
Ashan Thudugala spoke of coexistence — a word often used, rarely practiced. Living alongside wildlife, he said, begins with understanding, not fear.
From there, Sethil Muhandiram widened the lens, speaking of Sri Lanka’s apex predator. Leopards, identified by their unique rosette patterns, are studied not to dominate, but to understand.
Science, he showed, is an act of respect.
Even in a wetland without leopards, the message held: knowledge is how coexistence survives.
When night takes over
Then came the walk: As the city dimmed, Beddagana brightened. Fireflies stitched light into darkness. Frogs called across water. Fish moved beneath reflections. Insects swarmed gently, insistently. Camera traps blinked. Acoustic monitors listened patiently.
Those walking felt it — the sense that the wetland was no longer being observed, but revealed.
For many, it was the first time nature did not feel distant.

A global distinction, a local duty
Beddagana stands at the heart of a larger truth. Because of this wetland and the wider network around it, Colombo is the first capital city in the world recognised as a Ramsar Wetland City.
It is an honour that carries obligation. Urban wetlands are fragile. They disappear quietly. Their loss is often noticed only when floods arrive, water turns toxic, or silence settles where sound once lived.
Commitment in action
For Dilmah Conservation, this night was not symbolic.
Speaking on behalf of the organisation, Rishan Sampath said conservation must move beyond intention into experience.
“People protect what they understand,” he said. “And they understand what they experience.”
The Beddagana initiative, he noted, is part of a larger effort to place science, education and community at the centre of conservation.
Listening forward
As participants left — students from Colombo, Moratuwa and Sabaragamuwa universities, school environmental groups, citizens newly attentive — the wetland remained.
It filtered water. It cooled air. It held life.
World Wetlands Day passed quietly. But at Beddagana, something remained louder than celebration — a reminder that in the heart of the city, nature is still speaking.
The question is no longer whether wetlands matter.
It is whether we are finally listening.
Features
Cuteefly … for your Valentine
Valentine’s Day is all about spreading love and appreciation, and it is a mega scene on 14th February.
People usually shower their loved ones with gifts, flowers (especially roses), and sweet treats.
Couples often plan romantic dinners or getaways, while singles might treat themselves to self-care or hang out with friends.
It’s a day to express feelings, share love, and make memories, and that’s exactly what Indunil Kaushalya Dissanayaka, of Cuteefly fame, is working on.
She has come up with a novel way of making that special someone extra special on Valentine’s Day.

Indunil is known for her scented and beautifully turned out candles, under the brand name Cuteefly, and we highlighted her creativeness in The Island of 27th November, 2025.
She is now working enthusiastically on her Valentine’s Day candles and has already come up with various designs.
“What I’ve turned out I’m certain will give lots of happiness to the receiver,” said Indunil, with confidence.
In addition to her own designs, she says she can make beautiful candles, the way the customer wants it done and according to their budget, as well.
Customers can also add anything they want to the existing candles, created by Indunil, and make them into gift packs.
Another special feature of Cuteefly is that you can get them to deliver the gifts … and surprise that special someone on Valentine’s Day.
Indunil was originally doing the usual 9 to 5 job but found it kind of boring, and then decided to venture into a scene that caught her interest, and brought out her hidden talent … candle making
And her scented candles, under the brand ‘Cuteefly,’ are already scorching hot, not only locally, but abroad, as well, in countries like Canada, Dubai, Sweden and Japan.
“I give top priority to customer satisfaction and so I do my creative work with great care, without any shortcomings, to ensure that my customers have nothing to complain about.”
Indunil creates candles for any occasion – weddings, get-togethers, for mental concentration, to calm the mind, home decorations, as gifts, for various religious ceremonies, etc.
In addition to her candle business, Indunil is also a singer, teacher, fashion designer, and councellor but due to the heavy workload, connected with her candle business, she says she can hardly find any time to devote to her other talents.
Indunil could be contacted on 077 8506066, Facebook page – Cuteefly, Tiktok– Cuteefly_tik, and Instagram – Cuteeflyofficial.
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