Features
COLOMBO-BANGKOK- FRANKFURT-LONDON – Part 40
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
The Pandal in the Village
As done one year ago at Hotel Ceysands, and now as the Manager of Hotel Swanee, I was able to motivate the hotel maintenance department to create a pandal. This was to celebrate Gautama Buddha’s birthday on the Vesak full moon day in the month of May, 1979. This colourful, illuminated Vesak Pandal depicted the tale of the ‘Patachara’ jathaka story. Towards the end of the tourist season, I created a new job – hotel artist. The villager who got the job post was a creative artist, who handled painting many new thematic signs that I wanted displayed around the hotel. He also did many art works for our various events and ended up leading the pandal project.

“Where should we erect the pandal?” I asked the subcommittee headed by the maintenance supervisor and the union leader. They overwhelmingly supported the idea of erecting it in the hotel gardens. I did not think that allowing hundreds of villagers to come onto the hotel premises for over a week to see the pandal was a good idea. “Why don’t we erect it in the village just outside the hotel entrance?” I suggested.
When various reasons such as villagers stealing the bulbs came up, I told them, “Let me make special arrangements to look after the security of the pandal.” I summoned Solomon, the village thug, whom I had befriended and told him about the concerns of the sub-committee. At the end of that one-on-one discussion, Solomon and I agreed on two conditions. Solomon agreed to provide security and ensure that bulbs would not be stolen. I offered Solomon to be the chief guest who would officially open the pandal on the Vesak day, right after a well-known Buddhist monk from the area performed the religious blessings.
I knew that this type of public recognition and expression of respect was very important to Solomon. He generously donated Rs. 350 to the Swanee Staff Welfare Society, after opening the pandol in the presence of many villagers. He was extremely grateful and proud of recognition done in public. The subcommittee were pleasantly surprised that we did not lose a single bulb over the one-week period of display which was enjoyed by over a thousand villagers.
Corporate Changes at John Keells
Early 1979 was a time when John Keells and Walkers Tours were undergoing some major corporate changes at the helm. I had to follow these changes and understand the internal politics, because unit managers had to operate within the context of the corporate culture. The Chairman of the group, Mr. Mark Bostock, visited the Bentota/Beruwala area every weekend since his weekend holiday bungalow was located in the area. He liked to visit the growing number of John Keells and other hotels in the area. I had developed a friendly relationship with him six years ago when I was the Tournament Secretary for two annual Nationalized Services seven-a-side Rugby Tournaments. At that time, he held the post of the President of the Ceylon Rugby Football Union.
One of Mr Bostock’s right-hand men from John Keells, Mr. Ken Balendra (then the Tea Director, and eventually, the first Sri Lankan to become the Chairman of the group of companies for a decade) was entrusted to learn the travel trade and control Walkers Tours as the Managing Director. He succeeded Sriyantha Senaratne, who left Walkers Tours to start a rival company, Gemini Tours. A few directors left with him. Gemini contracted Mr. Somaratna De Silva, the architect who designed the Walkers Tours’ then flagship hotel – The Village, Habarana, to create a rival hotel in Sigiriya with the same concept and design. When this new hotel was nearing completion, Mr. Somaratna De Silva invited me to his home in Colombo four and asked me if I would like to join Gemini as the Hotel Opening Manager of this new hotel – Sigiriya Village, an offer I declined.
My friend, Bobby Adams had opened The Village, Habarana as the Manager in 1976. Within three years, he was given two quick promotions, first the General Manager and then the Director Operations of a new Keells subsidiary company. It was called Hotel Management & Marketing Services in charge of all hotels in the growing chain. Bobby was the first hotelier in Sri Lanka to hold such a corporate position. I was happy to report directly to Bobby. My former superior and intended father-in-law, Captain D. A. Wickramasinge was entrusted with new tasks at the Keells head office and eventually ran the group’s outbound tour company – Silverstock.

A Gesture by Mark Bostock
In the late 1970s, overseas travelling was a real luxury for Sri Lankans. Very few people got opportunities to do so. Since the mid-1950s, my father was a global traveller and I always wanted to travel around the world like he did. Since 1961, I regularly glanced through an interesting book in my father’s extensive library. The 320-page Travellers Digest published by the British Overseas Airways Corporation (B.O.A.C.) instilled the urge in me to become a global gypsy. However, at the age of 25, I had only experienced three domestic flights with Air Ceylon to Jaffna and Trincomalee on family vacations. I was waiting for an opportunity to commence my global travels.
Most Sunday mornings, Mr. Bostock walked his dog on the beach, and dropped in at Hotel Swanee to check how I was managing. He was impressed with the manner in which I had dealt with the village thugs, beach boys and touts who previously gave a hard time to my predecessors and hotel guests. The Chairman approved of Bobby and I, as we were hands-on hoteliers. One day we were seated by the Hotel Swanee poolside chatting, and Mr. Bostock asked me if I had been to his country – the United Kingdom. I told him that I had never travelled overseas. Within a week, he arranged for my first overseas trip on the company account.
I spent the whole summer of 1979 in London, discovering international five-star hotel standards. One of Mr. Bostock’s friends was Sir Charles Forte (later Baron Forte), who at that time owned the largest hotel chain in the world – Trust House Forte (THF, later Forte PLC). Using that connection, Mr. Bostock arranged for everything to be free for me in London as well as a few days in Thailand and West Germany.
Then Assistant Manager of the Village and my friend, Ranjith Dharmaratnam (later my Assistant Manager at Hotel Swanee) was my travel companion. Walkers Tours got the leading West German tour operator they represented in Sri Lanka as sole agents – Neckermann Reisen to make our travel arrangements in their charter flights. With that memorable trip in 1979, the world became my oyster. Today I am short of two countries to qualify for membership in the prestigious Travelers’ Century Club (TCC), for people who have visited 100 or more of the world’s countries and territories. Thank you for the help, Mr. Mark Bostock! RIP!
Bangkok
We arrived in Thailand in the evening. My first impression of Bangkok was how busy and vibrant it was. Compared to now, the capital and most populous city of Thailand was very different in 1979 in terms of development. There were very few skyscrapers, a couple of supermarkets and one department store on the famous Silom road, where our hotel was located. However, compared with Colombo, Bangkok was huge. One thing in common between now and then was the relatively large population. Around one sixth of the population of the country lived in Bangkok, dwarfing Thailand’s other urban centres in both size and importance to the national economy.
Bangkok was in the heart of the modernization of Siam, later renamed Thailand. The city was the centre of Thailand’s political struggles throughout the 20th century, as the country abolished absolute monarchy, adopted constitutional rule and underwent numerous military coups and several uprisings. In 1979 it was evident that the city was emerging rapidly as a centre for the arts, fashion and entertainment. Bangkok had already become famous for its street life, cultural landmarks and red-light districts.
Arriving at the famous Narai Hotel on the Silom Road of Bangkok’s main business district was exciting for Ranjith and I. This 500-room hotel, which had opened 11 years ago, was the largest hotel I had seen up to that point. I was fascinated that its food and beverage operation included over 30 restaurants. The two largest hotels in Sri Lanka – Hotel Lanka Oberoi and Hotel Ceylon Inter.Continental had only 266 rooms and 252 rooms and a handful of restaurants.
Narai Hotel was one of Bangkok’s earliest large hotels. Our second night there, Ranjith and I enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at the hotel’s 360-degree revolving restaurant which was the first of its kind in Thailand. It towered over the low-lying urban landscape with panoramic views. The Guest Relations Officer who was in charge of our tour of the hotel also showed us its ballroom which held up to about 1,000 guests. The next day we left for West Germany.

Frankfurt
Ranjith and I arrived in Frankfurt early in the morning. Arriving in one of the most populous cites in West Germany was somewhat nostalgic to me. Although I had never been out of Sri Lanka, I was exposed to two overseas cultures in the early 1970s – Japanese and German. Japanese through my involvement with Judo and German through my three years at the Ceylon Hotel School which had eight West German or German trained members of faculty. I also learnt some words in those two languages. I remembered the stories my father told me after his visit to Frankfurt a decade earlier to attend the world’s largest book fair.
Guten Morgen und willkommen in Frankfurt” we were greeted by Günter whom we knew from the Neckermann Reisen operation in Sri Lanka. Günter’s family was from Frankfurt and he was an excellent guide for us. After breakfast and while waiting for our hotel rooms to be ready, he took us on a quick city tour. Günter was proud that Frankfurt was a global hub for commerce, culture, education, tourism and transportation. Given its five centuries as a previous city state, the history of Frankfurt was rich and was most diverse culturally, ethnically and religiously.
Over the next two days, Ranjith and I were taken to a regional office of Neckermann. Günter also took us around to a few museums, art galleries, a botanical garden, a city forest and some football grounds where FIFA World Cup 1974 matches were played. We also dinned in a few of the best restaurants of Frankfurt. We were sad to leave Frankfurt, but Günter reminded us that we had another stop in Frankfurt after our three months of training in London.
London
It was an interesting first time visit to the United Kingdom. A few months before our arrival, the Conservative Party had won the general election and Mrs. Margaret Thatcher had become the first female Prime Minister of the country. In later years, I lived in the UK on two occasions during her 11-years at the helm of British politics. Throughout, I enjoyed watching her on British television and her various interesting battles. She was particularly forceful against the National Union of Mineworkers (NUM) led by an aggressive and confrontational Mr. Arthur Scargill and the Falklands war against Argentina. Although I did not agree with some of her policies, I was somewhat saddened when the Iron Lady eventually met her Waterloo in 1990, as a result of the famous cabinet revolt against her. I also served her once at a royal banquet hosted by the Queen, when I worked at the best British hotel – The Dorchester, in 1984.
London is among the oldest of the world’s great cities with a history spanning nearly two millennia – and one of the most cosmopolitan. Because of the colonial past of Ceylon, my generation grew up brain washed with exaggerated expectations of the grandeur of London as the capital of the United Kingdom and the Commonwealth. Some first impressions did not live up to expectations of Ranjith and myself. However, given the uniqueness of the city as the centre of the British government, monarchy, commerce, arts, entertainment and sports, I quickly fell in love with London. In later years, in addition to living in London on two occasions in the 1980s and 1990s, I visited London 35 times over a period of five years from the year 2000, when I was elected as a Board Member and then as the President of the Institute of Hospitality UK, and as the Chairman of HCIMA Limited.

Two of the early culture shocks we experienced in London were how cosmopolitan most parts of London were and also the Punk subculture. A pleasant surprise to me was that my favourite actor, Yul Brynner was living in London at that time nearing his 4,500th stage appearance as the King of Siam in “The King and I”. One of the first things I did in London was to buy an expensive front seat ticket to see him on stage at the West End. It was simply magical!
I was particularly happy to know that the hotel arranged by Trust House Forte for my full-board complimentary accommodation – Regent’s Palace, was only a few feet from the Piccadilly Circus. For nearly three months every day after work, I sat on those famous steps. I used to simply sit there and look at the lights, slow-moving red double decker buses and enjoyed chatting with many young tourists. I didn’t care about the time passing by. The summer of 1979 was one of my most memorable periods. I love London.
Features
Trump’s tariffs, AKD’s gazette and Sri Lanka’s diplomatic slumber
“We are rather respectable in Colombo. We go to bed fairly early, and we remain there till morning. “
According to Sri Lanka’s diplomatic folklore, the late S.W. R. D. Bandaranaike uttered these words while explaining the reasons for Sri Lanka’s abstention on the UN resolution condemning the Soviet invasion of Hungary. Apparently, SWRD’s foreign ministry officials were asleep at home when the diplomatic cable seeking instructions was received from New York. In those days, there were no cell phones, Internet, or even fax or telex machines. The diplomatic cables were sent through post offices. Decoding them was a slow and time-consuming process. Thus, the government could not provide appropriate instructions to our mission in New York in time, and the Sri Lankan delegation abstained on that sensitive UN vote.
Sri Lanka’s Absence from Section 301 Consultations
But then, how does one explain Sri Lanka’s absence from the crucial bilateral consultation held in Washington by the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) during March-April on “Forced Labour” under the Section 301 of the US Trade Act of 1974? Didn’t our foreign and trade ministries send appropriate instructions to Washington in time? Even if the instructions from the foreign ministry were transmitted to our embassy in Washington by pigeon carriers, there was enough time for Sri Lanka to participate in those meetings.
In March, the USTR initiated these 301 investigations on 60 trading partners, and invited all of them for confidential consultations. Out of the 60, 46 participated in these consultations. Sri Lanka was not one of them. Other countries that didn’t participate in these consultations included China, Russia, and Venezuela! In addition to that, the Section 301 Committee conducted a public hearing with interested parties on April 28 and 29. Washington-based diplomats, representatives from few trade ministries as well as representatives from many foreign trade associations and chambers participated in these hearings. Sri Lanka was once again conspicuously absent.
As a result, when the USTR published the proposed forced labour tariffs on June 2nd, Sri Lanka ended up with a 12.5% duty. Pakistani and Indonesian diplomats participated in these consultations and took appropriate follow-up measures, and managed to enter the 10% duty category. As even a threat of a modest tariff hike could disrupt supply chains and reduce competitiveness, particularly in an industry such as garments, I discussed this issue on 15 June and underscored the importance of Sri Lanka’s participation at the next hearing, which was scheduled to be held from July 7th .
Awakening from Diplomatic Slumber and AKD’s Gazette
Fortunately, Sri Lanka finally awoke from weeks of diplomatic slumber, and Ambassador Mahinda Samarasinghe participated in the public hearing on 9 July, and promised, “…. · We have agreed to the text in our negotiations with the USTR on forced labour, …. The gazette as we speak is being printed and I’m getting the gazette tomorrow morning, and the gazette will be shared with USTR as I get it“.
As promised, President Anura Kumara Dissanayake issued a gazette on 10 July banning the imports of goods produced by forced labour. These new regulations are very similar to what Pakistan and Indonesia enacted in April, after their consultations with USTR in March. Why couldn’t we do it in April? Why did we wait till the very last minute?
Challenges ahead
“War is too important to be left to generals alone,” is a famous saying attributed to former French Premier Georges Clemenceau. Similarly, monitoring our main markets is too important to be left to diplomats alone. The United States is the largest single-country market for Sri Lanka. Therefore, Sri Lankan trade chambers and associations should become more proactive in these markets and participate in these events. For example, the chairman of the Pakistani apparel exporters association participated in the April hearings. Similarly, representatives from the Indian Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority, the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the Confederation of Indian Industry, and Reliance Industries also participated in July hearings. At an event where each speaker is given only five minutes (strictly enforced), having a number of speakers from a country is an advantage. The presence of industry representatives in these kinds of events also help them understand the market dynamics and the future challenges. This is important, particularly because there will be many more challenges with Trump’s tariffs.
With the gazette issued on 10 July, Sri Lanka has imposed a prohibition on the importation of goods produced with forced labour. Now, the challenge will be to effectively enforce the prohibition. And what are the goods produced with forced labour? The USTR list only focuses on aluminum, cotton, electronics, lithium-ion batteries, rice, and tobacco. However, according to the U.S. Department of Labour, the list is much longer. Hence, this list may change continuously during the next two years and tariffs may fluctuate once again.
So, this is definitely not the time to slumber.
(The writer, a retired public servant, can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)
by Gomi Senadhira ✍️
Features
Tales of Mystery and Suspense 10 Casino for Sale
After the overwhelming grotesquerie of J K Rowling’s latest Cormoran Strike novel (written, I should have noted, as the others were, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith), I thought I should return to the world of fun, and also a much shorter description since this thriller moves quickly without the layers of detail that Rowling engages in.
I then move to the second comic thriller by Caryl Brahms and S J Simon. This, their second story to feature Vladimir Stroganoff and Adam Quill, was Casino for Sale, as lunatic a romp as the first, though without the emphasis on the ballet that characterized A Bullet in the Ballet.
This one begins with the impresario Stroganoff buying a casino cheap from Baron Sam de Rabinovich, only to find that it was a rundown place, not the grand casino of La Bazouche, a resort on the Frenc+h Riviera, as he had initially thought. The grand one belonged to Lord Buttonhooke, and Stroganoff could not compete, until he thought of bringing the Ballet Stroganoff to the casino – which of course leads to Buttonhooke deciding to have ballet performances in his Casino too.
Stroganoff invites Quill to visit him, which Quill decides to do since he has left Scotland Yard, having come into a legacy. No one believes this, and he has to face questions as to what he did to have been sacked, with sympathy for having been found out.
The day he arrives in La Bazouche there is a murder, of a vitriolic critic called Citrolo, in Stroganoff’s office. He had been going to write a damning review of the opening night of the ballet and Stroganoff, when he realizes Citrolo cannot be swayed, drugs him and dictates the review himself to the papers. He leaves Citrolo sleeping and finds him shot the next morning, whereupon he decides to muddy the waters and leave a suicide note and lots of other murder weapons. So much overkill, as it were, of course ensures that he is arrested.
But the excitable French detective who makes the arrest follows up his suggestion that Buttonhooke was also involved, and so the two casino owners find themselves in cells next door to each other, with the detective Gustave quite happy to provide creature comforts for a fee.
Quill decides he must investigate, and finds Gustave most cooperative, since he has a laid back attitude to work. So it is Quill that finds a notebook which makes it clear Citrolo is an accomplished blackmailer, and that there are lots of possible murderers, including Stroganoff’s croupier, who was crooked, Rabinovich, who was now working for Buttonhooke, a confidence trickster called Kurt Kukumber, whose prospectus for a dud gold mine was found in the office and Prince Alexis Artishok who was engaged in a deal to buy diamonds from the ballerina Dyra Dyrakova.
Stroganoff had been trying to get Dyrakova to dance for him, but having done so previously she had refused. But then to Stroganoff’s chagrin she agreed to dance for Buttonhooke. The clearly crooked Artishok had told Buttonhooke’s mistress Sadie Souse, who was not very bright, that Dyrakova possessed diamonds she was willing to sell cheap, and Sadie was determined to have them.
Quill meanwhile finds out that there was a secret passage to Stroganoff’s office, the obvious solution to what had begun as a locked room mystery, and that this was known by almost everyone apart from Stroganoff himself. And then Rabinovich is murdered, just after Gustave had released his two original suspects, leading him to blame Quill for having insisted on that and thus allowing them to kill again.
Soon afterwards Dyrakova arrives, and the town is full of posters announcing that she will appear in the casinos, elaborate posters for either one, since Stroganoff is determined that she will dance for him, and if she does not come willingly, he has devised a scheme to make her do so unwillingly. So, though Buttonhooke has her taken off to his yacht immediately she arrives at the station, Quill along with Arenskaya gets her into a launch and to Stroganoff’s casino, where she performs to tumultuous applause, not knowing for whom she is dancing.
When Quill asked her about the diamonds, she said she had sold them long ago, and that gave Quill the solution to the mystery. Rabinovich had known about this, and Artishok had killed him to prevent Sadie learning it from him, he had killed Citrolo who had recognized him for an accomplished card sharper, not a Russian prince at all. But before he is arrested, he gets away in a boat, and the police launch that pursues him is on the point of catching him up when it runs out of petrol.
Again, lots of excitement, and entertaining references – Gustave grows marrows – and if not quite as brilliant as its predecessor, Casino was certainly a delightful read.
Features
The challenge of being positive about SAARC
It was a few years back that a former President of Sri Lanka took it on himself to pronounce SAARC ‘dead’. Since then there have been other sections of Sri Lankan opinion that have joined the critics of SAARC and taken the solemn stance that SAARC has indeed died what may be called a natural death.
Their fatalism is understandable. SAARC has failed to meet at heads of government or state level for the past several years to take the SAARC process notably forward. Regional cooperation has more or less been only an appealing idea. No substantive concrete projects have taken off to make the idea a hard reality. ‘Inner paralysis’ seems to be SAARC’s lot. Hence the fatalism in these circles.
However, being one of the worst cash-strapped regions of the world and a teemingly populated one with people virtually left to their devices, what choices do the ‘SAARC Eight’ have other than to try their best to band together and continue with their cooperation efforts, however small they may be?
There is no escaping the mounting debt trap for many of these countries and bankrupt Sri Lanka is a glaring example, but ‘throwing in the towel’ and abandoning themselves entirely to the diktats of the strongest economies and their agencies will prove a ‘living death’ for many countries in the SAARC fold.
The gains may be meagre but giving-up on SAARC cooperation in full would prove self-defeating for the organization and South Asia. Right now, the collective intention ought to be to salvage what the region could from the tenuous cooperative efforts. Moreover, such initiatives could go some distance to generate a degree of goodwill among the Eight and help in sustaining a dialogue process.
Given this backdrop it proved ‘a stich in time’ for the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies (RCSS), Colombo, to recently host the SAARC Secretary General Ambassador Md. Golam Sarwar to a round table discussion on the unifying potential of SAARC and its future possibilities, besides other related issue areas.
Held on June 24th and moderated by RCSS Executive Director and former ambassador Ravinatha Aryasinha, the forum brought together a vibrant, wide ranging audience comprising academicians, diplomats, senior public servants, civil society activists and many others. Following the presentation by Ambassador Golam Sarwar titled, ‘Reigniting SAARC: Achievements, Challenges and the Way Ahead’, a lively Q&A followed.
The above forum could be described as an act of lighting the proverbial ‘candle’ rather than ‘cursing the darkness.’ It surely is a ‘darkness’ that could be seen as daunting considering that the region’s pivotal powers, India and Pakistan, are failing to act in a spirit of accord but are engaged in bitter finger-pointing on a number of questions of vital importance to SAARC.
On the other hand, what is the rest of the region doing to bring the above sides together? It is disappointing that to date the rest of SAARC has failed to launch a major diplomatic drive to bring peace between the feuding regional heavyweights. It needs to act without delay and establish its earnestness and this effort would need to prove SAARC’s staying power in the unfolding months and even years.
In assessing SAARC’s seeming failure local opinion in particular has failed to factor in what could be described as weak leadership. Since Sheikh Mujibur Rahman of Bangladesh, the founding father of SAARC, the region has failed to produce a visionary leader who could advance the SAARC cause with charisma and drive.
Among other reasons, weak leadership accounts considerably for the faltering and stuttering status, as it were, of SAARC. Badly needed are leaders who could go the extra mile, think less of narrow national interests and work diligently towards the collective well being of the region but SAARC’s millions of ordinary people have been made to wait in vain for leaders of such stature. Instead, they have been burdened with politicians who seem to be relishing the apparently moribund state of SAARC.
Looking back, it could be said that it was the dynamic leadership factor that led to the launching of the Non-Aligned Movement and for its sustenance for a few decades. True, it could be seen in some quarters that NAM is no more, but as in the case of SAARC, the former too has been unfortunate to be burdened over the years with politicians who lack the vision and drive to unflaggingly advance the fortunes of the South. NAM and SAARC lack the dynamism and vision of leaders of the stature of Jawaharlal Nehru, for example, to give them the required guidance and intellectual depth.
The reasons are complex for there not being among us currently political leaders with the vision and the steadfast commitment to advance the legitimate interests of the South. However, it could be stated with conviction that the majority of Southern leaders have too easily caved in to the demands of the global North and its financial agencies.
These leaders have failed to see, for instance, that the largely market economy oriented Northern governments would not view with favour a centrist economic model that attaches priority to the interests of the dis-empowered publics of the South. This realization ought to have dawned on the current government in Sri Lanka, for instance, some while ago but it has no choice but to abide by IMF dictates since economic survival at present is unthinkable without the latter’s succour.
Accordingly for SAARC this should be the time for some soul-searching. Priority needs to be attached to ending the feuding between India and Pakistan since at present the material fortunes of the region hinge largely on these regional giants giving peaceful relations among them a try. This is no easy challenge to meet but some daring, visionary diplomacy needs to take hold among the rest of SAARC.
There is some sense in SAARC bringing the peoples of the region together through programs that address their best collective interests. A meeting of minds among SAARC nations could enable SAARC and its agencies to build a region-wide people’s movement for progressive political and economic change that could in turn lead to the region’s political leaders sensitizing themselves more to the neglected needs of their publics.
However, the time is ‘now’ for the initiation of these progressive changes and the voice of SAARC well wishers would need to drown out those of their critics.
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