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Travelling with Nihal Fernando

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by Rajitha Ratwatte

To commemorate the 94th Birthday Nihal Fernando
which falls on August 8

CRACK OF DAWN! used to be the cry as the maestro knew the magic of the early morning light and how to harness it for photography. Crack of dawn it was, be it in the frosty cold mornings of Horton Plains or his beloved dry zone jungles or even the steamy humidity of the mighty Sinharaja. The Land Rover had to be coaxed into life (not always a simple procedure) and yours truly in the role of “charioteer” or driver in mundane parlance would set off with Nihal Fernando either in the passenger seat or perched in the back, his cameras, and lenses in wild disarray around him, to capture some of the indescribable beauty that is part of Island of Serendib “seven leagues (?) from the fountains of paradise”. We never did actually hear the fountains as was deemed possible, but we came mighty close!

It is thanks to Nihal Fernando that I got opportunities to visit some remote and even mystical areas of our country. He always seemed to be able to get permission as the authorities in those days appreciated his rare talent (inspired, he used to say by the great Lionel Wendt) to capture the subtle nuances and the very essence of his subject matter. I got to know him when he was probably in his late fifties and even then, he used to say that he could never sleep on the night before a trip into the jungles as the sheer excitement and anticipation had the adrenaline pumping in his veins.

The steady “PLOP” of the shutter of his Hasselblad camera emanating from all parts of his trusty Land Rover was a sure indication that the Maestro was in his element and short sharp instructions with regard to forward and backward movements to accommodate the light would be issued from time to time. This of course was the man at work, but my main role was to get him there through the roads of Ceylon and across many rivers and lagoons to what he sometimes called “Gods’ Own” with more than the moisture generated by the often-dusty journeys in his eyes.

No description of travels with Nihal Fernando would be complete without inclusion of his vehicle. His single cab series three long wheel base Land Rover which he bought for Rupees 14,000 in the 1960s with a mechanical winch and a power take. We never gave her a name but female she was, as that sort of temperament is only inherent to the female of the species! The cab was virtually open to the elements through various intentional and mostly unintentional openings. There was no power steering and of course air conditioning belonged to the future.

The designers of Land Rover in their infinite wisdom had placed the starter motor underneath the engine and all wading (or driving thought water – often salty) resulting in that vital piece of machinery ceasing to function on demand. On one unforgettable occasion, it was on a sandy beach at the estuary of a river on the morning following a memorable overnight camp. Imagine pushing a Land Rover to get it started on a soft sandy beach! That Land Rover seemed to relax just as much as we did once we got across the river to the rolling plains of our favourite coastal national park. Relax in the sense that her brakes just stopped working and we had to often coast to a stop with the help of a lone standing “Maliththan” tree at a campsite enjoyed by predecessors, who had loved the area just as much as we did.

The Land Rover used to be loaded to the proverbial gills for ten days of bliss beside a jungle river, so much so that the final bunch of thambili had to be put on the spare tire that was on top of the bonnet. A quick prayer to the Gods to ensure that we did not meet a curious herd of elephants on our way to the campsite was always answered.

As the Land Rover got older, NF succumbed to the superior reliability of the Japanese vehicles. Toyota Hilux took over and with it of course simple luxuries that made the eight to 10 hour journeys to our destinations much more comfortable. But when push came to shove and things were getting sticky in flood water or glutinous mud, the steady chug of the Land Rover and the superior suspension was always missed.

I was privileged enough to be given access to some breathtakingly beautiful, magical and even, mystical places thanks to Nihal Fernando allowing me to drive him there, and above all, enjoy them and appreciate them in the way that I was taught to, by the Maestro himself. The drives were often spent in companionable silence, mainly due to the Land Rover wishing to dominate the conversation with her engine and tyre noise but many is the evening I have spent beside roaring fires, or with the soothing hiss of a “Kitson” lamp in the background, a tumbler of his favourite arrack in my hand listening to a recap of the beauty we had experienced on that day. Words from a normally silent and almost shy man who was transformed when he was in his element and with, if I may venture to say, kindred spirits and people who Nihal Fernando thought had the capacity to understand.

Rajitha Ratwatte

Auckland Aotearoa – New Zealand



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Mount Lavinia Hotel unveils spectacular “Avurudu Maha gedara”

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Mount Lavinia Hotel, known as “Galkissa Maha Hotalaya had thier “Avurudu Maha Gedara” celebration for the 2025 Sinhala and Tamil New Year. This year’s festivities were spectacular, with the iconic Chef Publis Silva at the helm of the culinary offerings.

The concept of “Avurudu Maha Gedara” – the grand ancestral home where families gather during New Year – perfectly embodies Mount Lavinia Hotel’s role as a cultural cornerstone in the community. Just as in the traditional village “Maha gedara” welcomes extended families, the historic hotel opens its doors to all Sri Lankans and visitors wishing to experience authentic New Year traditions.

“Avurudu Maha Gedara at Mount Lavinia Hotel is more than just a celebration – it’s our way of preserving and sharing Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage,” says Anura Dewapura, Chief Operating Officer of Mount Lavinia Hotel Group. “We take pride in creating a space where families and friends can come together to experience the joy and traditions of the New Year in an authentic setting that honors our collective past while creating new memories.”

Grand Kavili Kade opening and Avurudu market

The celebrations kicked off with the grand opening of the Kavili Kade (sweetmeat shop) on Sunday, April 6th at 4:30 PM. Visitors were treated to a vibrant cultural spectacle featuring traditional dancing, music, games, and dramatic performances. Distinguished guests including corporate partners, business associates, ambassadors, and media representatives attended this colorful inauguration.

The hotel’s courtyard was transformed into an eco-friendly Avurudu Market, showcasing special New Year items, homeware, and decorative pieces. Following the grand opening, the Kavili Kade will welcome guests daily from 10 AM to 8 PM until April 13th.

Exquisite Kavili hampers

For those looking to bring the flavors of Avurudu home, Mount Lavinia Hotel has curated three distinctive kavili hampers named after beloved Sri Lankan flora:

The premium Erabadu Hamper – the most comprehensive sweetmeat collection

The Ehela Hamper – a delightful mid-range offering

The Bakmee Hamper ) – a perfect introduction to traditional treats

Each hamper can be delivered directly to your doorstep, making them ideal both for family celebrations and as meaningful gifts during the New Year season.

“Feast of the Nation” – A Culinary Journey Across Sri Lanka

On Avurudu Day, Mount Lavinia Hotel will host its renowned “Feast of the Nation” lunch buffet, celebrating Sri Lanka’s diverse culinary heritage. At , this extraordinary buffet transcends ethnic boundaries, offering a comprehensive journey through the island’s rich culinary landscape. The feast features authentic dishes from every corner of Sri Lanka, bringing together the distinct flavors and cooking traditions that represent the country’s multicultural identity in one magnificent spread.

“The Avurudu celebration at Mount Lavinia Hotel represents the true spirit of Sri Lankan unity,” Dewapura continued. ” Through our traditional foods, we honor the cultural tapestry that makes our nation so special.”

Mount Lavinia Hotel’s “Avurudu Maha Gedara” welcomes Sri Lankans of all ages and backgrounds to experience the rich traditions of the New Year in the magnificent setting of this historic landmark.

For reservations and inquiries, contact Mount Lavinia Hotel at 0112 711 711.

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Celebrate Avurudu in grand style

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This April, Cinnamon Grand Colombo brings the joyous essence of Avurudu alive with a line-up of delightful culinary experiences, cultural festivities, and memorable moments for the whole family. Here’s how you can celebrate the Sinhala and Tamil New Year with flavour, tradition, and warmth said the press release.

New Year vibes

The release said experience the sights, sounds, and smells of a truly Sri Lankan New Year from 12–15 April 2025, starting from 5 PM onwards at the Lobby.

Watch live demonstrations of traditional sweetmeats being made, like kawum and kokis, and enjoy the rhythmic beats of raban drums as the hotel lobby transforms into a celebration of Avurudu culture.

Lobby – Cinnamon Grand Colombo

12–15 April, from 5 PM onwards

Call +94 11 247 3494 for details

Celebrate Avurudu Tradition and taste at Nuga Gama

On 14 April 2025, step into a truly authentic village-style Avurudu celebration at Nuga Gama. Starting at 8 AM, guests can enjoy a lavish Kavili Table and Lunch Buffet filled with traditional sweets and festive Sri Lankan dishes.

There’ll also be Avurudu games and vibrant activities to keep the whole family entertained.

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Celebrate Sinhala and Tamil New Year at Sun Siyam Pasikudah’s Festival of the Sun

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This Sinhala and Tamil New Year, step away from the ordinary and embrace the spirit of Avurudu at Sun Siyam Pasikudah with the joyous rhythms of tradition, community, and coastal serenity, under the vibrant theme, Festival of the Sun said a press release

Set along the golden shores of Pasikudah, the luxury five-star beach resort transforms into a festive haven where timeless rituals meet joyful recreation. From traditional ceremonies to fun-filled family games, guests are promised an unforgettable experience that captures the heart of Sri Lankan heritage, celebrating the essence of togetherness, gratitude, and renewal release said.

As the sun rises to mark the dawn of the New Year, guests will witness the symbolic milk boiling ceremony—a sacred ritual signifying prosperity and new beginnings. The preparation of the Kavili Mesaya, or traditional sweet table, will follow—featuring a colourful spread of mouthwatering Avurudu treats like kokis, mung kavum, aluwa, and konda kavum. The celebration continues with a ceremonial oil lamp lighting, setting the tone for a day rooted in cultural elegance and island warmth.

The Kids’ Corner is all set to light up with playful delights such as Breaking Balloons and Placing the Eye on the Elephant, promising giggles and memories for the little ones. Families and groups can bond over light-hearted yet lively games including Fill the Bottle by Hand, Sack Races, and the ever-popular Musical Chairs—guaranteed to spark friendly competition and lots of laughs.

For those seeking a thrill, competitive events like Tug of War (Ladies vs Gents), Pillow Fight, and the classic Blindfolded Pot Breaking are sure to bring out the festive spirit in full force.

While the Avurudu festivities steal the spotlight, Sun Siyam Pasikudah continues to charm guests with its signature blend of tropical luxury and authentic Sri Lankan hospitality.

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