Connect with us

Business

Reimagining the future of Sri Lanka’s apparel industry

Published

on

By Shirendra Lawrence

The emergence of apparel and textiles as a significant contributor to Sri Lanka’s economy began post-Independence in 1948 when a few pioneering industrialists saw opportunities in its domestic market. Following the liberalization of the economy in the late 70’s, the industry ventured into exports, bringing in much needed foreign exchange, and before long, established Sri Lanka’s reputation as a manufacturer of quality products.

During the 90’s, facilitated by the 200 Garment Factories Program, manufacturing that had until then been located in free trade zones was expanded across Sri Lanka. This played a key role in the upliftment of the country’s rural economies.

The last decade has seen a further evolution, focused on end-to-end partnerships and complete customer solutions. However, an in-depth assessment of the sector’s strengths and competencies indicates that its full potential is yet to be realised.

With the pandemic causing significant disruption to Sri Lanka’s economy, our vision of elevating the country to a US$ 8 billion global apparel hub by 2025 is now perhaps more critical than ever. This growth is envisaged through value addition and further evolving from contracted apparel manufacturing for Buying Offices to end-to-end solutions for leading Global Brands and Retailers, spanning innovation to last-mile delivery.

With the pandemic gradually receding, apparel sector stakeholders have renewed collaborative efforts to achieve these goals.

Current status

In pre-pandemic 2019, the value of global apparel exports was estimated at $492 billion. Most would agree that with Sri Lanka’s contribution being just 1% of this, at $5.3 billion, the industry’s aspiration to grow it to $8 billion is not unreasonably ambitious.

Sri Lanka enjoys a reputation as a trusted partner within the supply chains of some of the world’s leading brands and retailers. The country’s apparel industry comprises a few large groups, supported by a strong ecosystem of Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs). This is a symbiotic system; the larger players have developed meaningful Customer Partnerships, whilst the SMEs have created niches, including supporting the larger Groups to meet their supply chain requirements.

Despite its smaller scale and Sri Lanka’s apparel sector having relatively higher labour costs than some of its regional competitors, along with less preferential export market access, it has still progressed by leveraging other sources of competitive advantages. Sri Lanka ranks high in terms of reliability and product quality, which have elevated the country’s reputation and overall positioning. This is best reflected in the impressive list of global Brands and Retailers served by Sri Lankan manufacturers, including Victoria’s Secret, Marks & Spencer, Boss, NIKE, Calvin Klein, GAP, Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, lululemon, Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tommy Hilfiger.

This elevated positioning also extends to talent attractiveness, with the country’s apparel sector appealing to the better professional talent, unlike some of our regional counterparts. A case in point is India, where professionals would often see other industries such as automobiles, electronics and IT as more attractive. Furthermore, the Island benefits from its strategic geographical location along major shipping routes as a regional logistics hub.

From an infrastructure standpoint, fabric manufacturers, who require process water, have established their factories within the BOI facilitated Free Trade Zones, which include advanced water treatment processes, whilst those in relatively labour-intensive apparel manufacturing have located themselves in rural areas across the country, providing direct and indirect employment to those communities, accelerating the development of those areas.

Leveraging on trade shifts

Whilst all of this progress has been well invested in, for the country to realise its apparel sector’s true potential, it is essential to fully leverage these strengths while understanding and aligning with the trade shifts that are taking place.

Studies indicate that the impact of increasing political and economic tensions between the Far East and the West will result in the movement of significant amounts of trade from China. Whilst these movements appeared to have commenced pre-pandemic, customers in western markets have delayed this process, not wanting to add additional dimensions of risk on top of pandemic-induced challenges. However, the shift is expected to gather momentum in 2022 and beyond.

Apart from direct business migration, opportunities would include potential FDI inflows from companies in the Far East seeking to augment their existing bases by establishing manufacturing locations in South Asia to mitigate their risk of losing customers. The industry and policymakers are mindful of potential opportunities that could arise as a result. The leadership of Sri Lankan apparel companies, with the support of the industry umbrella organisation, the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF), and its constituent associations, including the Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters Association (SLAEA), are reimagining the sector’s future. These stakeholders are crafting strategic plans to facilitate the process of achieving the sector’s vision.

Maintaining competitive advantage

‘Doing the right thing’ has been the driving philosophy of Sri Lanka’s apparel industry, and this was key in attracting reputed Brands and private label retailers to Sri Lanka during the 80’s and 90’s. Marks & Spencer, in particular, saw Sri Lanka as a credible alternative for the migration of its western manufacturing bases at that time. This catalysed Sri Lankan manufacturers’ alignment with the expectations of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) and other organisations and standards focused on social responsibility and differentiated us from our competitors.

Moving to the present, what were competitive advantages have today become ‘hygiene factors’. Sri Lankan manufacturers have maintained their reputation for ethical manufacturing through environmentally responsible production, strong connections with existing and emerging organisations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), and investments to reduce their Carbon Footprints. Significant strategic initiatives include the conversion of fossil-fuelled boilers to biomass and introducing other environmentally friendly energy sources such as solar. This also aligns the industry well with the Government’s efforts to increase renewable energy to 70% of Sri Lanka’s total requirement by 2030.

Sri Lankan apparel groups have also grown their businesses through geographic diversification. These efforts seek to minimise customer concerns of single country sourcing, leverage on bilateral and multilateral trade agreements and augment Asian manufacturing locations with a capacity closer to markets.

Improved trade access is vital

Greater preferential market access to existing and identified key export markets would substantially boost Sri Lanka’s apparel exports. However, it is vital to retain existing concessions under the EU and UK Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) Plus schemes while securing tariff reductions to other countries. Considering our success in penetrating key markets such as the USA, where tariffs for apparel exports are as much as, or in some cases even more than 30%, there is a significant opportunity to be had if the industry were provided with tariff waivers or even reductions.

Substantial opportunities also exist in large developing nations. Sri Lanka needs to increase its export quota of 8 million garment items per year to India, one of the fastest-growing regional economies. The Chinese market, too, presents vast potential.

Need for conducive policies

While recent initiatives to modernise trade facilitation, including the digitisation of customs clearance processes and administration of payments through online gateways, are welcomed, much more policy reform is needed. For example, if Sri Lanka is to evolve as an innovative apparel hub, a safe and conducive environment for innovation is required. This is only possible if Intellectual Property and data protection laws are given priority. Similarly, reforming colonial-era labour laws to reflect the very different world that we live in today is essential.

Favourable policies and incentives should be provided for investments related to backward integration and automation. The Eravur Fabric Processing Park is an important development in this regard, and the industry acknowledges the contributions of multiple state agencies in this initiative.

In conclusion, evolving Sri Lanka’s apparel industry will, without doubt, continue to bring benefits to the country – both directly and indirectly – increasing FDI, employment opportunities and export earnings whilst improving innovation and technology inflows.

With all stakeholders working in collaboration, the vision of making Sri Lanka a fully-fledged apparel hub is well within the country’s reach.

(Shirendra Lawrence is an apparel industry veteran and is the Deputy Chairman of the Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters’ Association. He is also an Executive Director of MAS Holdings. Shirendra holds a Mechanical Engineering (Honours) Degree from Imperial College, University of London, and is a Chartered Mechanical Engineer. He counts over 35 years of experience in manufacturing, business development and organisational leadership in the UK and Sri Lanka.)



Continue Reading
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Business

Britain has opened a door: Sri Lanka’s SME apparel exporters need help walking through it

Published

on

Trade preferences are often spoken of as though tariff cuts alone can remake an industry. They cannot. Preferences matter only when firms are able to use them. That is what makes the United Kingdom’s revised Developing Countries Trading Scheme (DCTS), effective from January 1, 2026, important for Sri Lanka’s apparel sector. It offers more than continued market access. It offers a more usable route into one of Sri Lanka’s key export markets. For large exporters, that is beneficial. For small and medium-sized firms, it could be pivotal.

The real significance lies in the rules of origin. Earlier preference regimes imposed conditions that often constrained smaller exporters, especially those without vertically integrated operations. The revised DCTS eases those constraints by allowing greater sourcing flexibility. For Sri Lankan apparel SMEs, that matters more than the headline concession. Smaller exporters rarely struggle because they cannot manufacture. More often, they struggle because they cannot source inputs competitively, price with enough agility, or meet delivery timelines reliably enough to retain buyer confidence. The DCTS begins to ease those commercial pressures.

That is the theory. The more important question is what it means in practice.

Joe Jayawardena, an exporter to the UK speaking from the perspective of a UK-linked buying and manufacturing business sourcing from Sri Lanka and other apparel-producing countries, put it plainly: the DCTS is a duty concession for developing countries. But its real value lies in how it changes the commercial conversation. If exporters can source from a wider pool of inputs without losing preferential access, they gain more room to negotiate on price, lead time, and fabric choice. In apparel, that is not a marginal gain. It can determine whether a supplier is shortlisted or ignored.

That matters particularly for Sri Lankan SMEs because they operate with structural disadvantages. They typically have less working capital, narrower supplier networks, and weaker bargaining power than larger manufacturers. They cannot absorb long delays. They cannot tie up cash in excessive inventory. And they rarely enjoy the upstream integration that allows major firms to manage both cost and compliance. When rules are rigid, smaller firms feel the pressure first. When rules become more flexible, they stand to benefit disproportionately.

That is why the DCTS should be viewed not merely as a customs adjustment, but as a competitiveness instrument.

Yet preferential access on paper does not automatically become export orders. Here, the exporters’ comments point to a harder truth. Jayawardena’s sharper criticism was not of the scheme itself, but of Sri Lanka’s failure, so far, to exploit it properly. The opportunity exists, he argued, but the connectivity does not. Better access means little if buyers are not being brought closer to suppliers, if exporters remain insufficiently visible in the market, and if the state treats market access as a passive entitlement rather than something to be actively commercialised.

That critique deserves attention. Sri Lanka has too often assumed that preferential access will somehow speak for itself. It does not. Trade schemes reward countries that organise around them. That means stronger participation in trade fairs, more direct buyer outreach, easier commercial engagement, and a more deliberate effort to market Sri Lanka’s value proposition. It also means helping SMEs turn regulatory change into business decisions. Which products are best placed under the new rules? How should firms restructure sourcing? What level of documentation is enough to avoid customs disputes? How should mixed shipments be managed? These are practical questions, and SMEs need practical answers.

Amindra Wimalasena, another exporter to the UK, pointed to the second half of the problem. Better market access alone will not allow firms to scale if they lack the means to modernise. His point was straightforward: with the right support for automation, and financing mechanisms designed around how the industry actually operates, output could rise materially without a proportional increase in labour. Productivity gains are possible, but only if investment reaches the factory floor rather than being trapped by wider financial constraints.

This is where the DCTS debate becomes more strategic. The scheme creates external opportunity. But Sri Lanka’s SME exporters still face internal constraints, especially in finance, systems, and market connection. Many smaller firms do not need another seminar on trade policy. They need inventory-backed lending, grace periods for machinery investment, stronger production planning, and better access to buyers. Without that, the gains from DCTS will flow mainly to firms already large enough to move quickly.

That would be a missed opportunity.

Sri Lanka’s apparel sector has long been anchored by a small number of established players. But the next phase of growth will require a broader base. SMEs can provide that, particularly in segments where flexibility, specialisation, and shorter production runs matter. Britain’s revised scheme could support exactly this part of the industry, if used properly. Greater sourcing freedom allows smaller firms to become more responsive. It lets them choose inputs on commercial merit rather than regulatory necessity. It can improve pricing, shorten lead times, and make them more attractive to UK buyers seeking agile sourcing partners.

But that outcome will not happen on its own. It requires an ecosystem response. Government and industry bodies need to treat DCTS as a commercial opening, not just a policy achievement. Support for SMEs must become more operational, not merely informational. And policymakers should link DCTS directly to productivity finance, so that smaller exporters can invest in efficiency and automation rather than simply admire improved market access from a distance.

The broader lesson is simple. Trade preferences create potential only when domestic institutions convert that potential into capability. The UK has widened the opening. Sri Lanka must now decide whether to merely welcome the gesture or make full commercial use of it.

For SME apparel exporters, the stakes are considerable. If the DCTS is properly leveraged, it could improve competitiveness, widen buyer access, and bring smaller firms closer to the centre of Sri Lanka’s export economy. If it is not, Sri Lanka risks repeating a familiar pattern: favourable terms, but limited results.

Britain has opened a door. Sri Lanka’s SMEs now need the systems, capital, and market access to walk through it.

Continue Reading

Business

CSE & NSEIX enter strategic partnership to expand capital market access

Published

on

Parties to the MoU signed at GIFT IFSC Global Securities Markets Conclave 2.0: Chetan Shah, Head of Capital Markets - Axis Bank Neeraj Kulshrestha, MD & CEO – NSE International Clearing Corporation; Balasubramaniam Venkataramani, MD & CEO – NSEIX; Kosala Gamage, Director – CSE; Rajeeva Bandaranaike, CEO – CSE; Ms. Punyamali Saparamadu, SVP – CSE; Ms. Hetal Kotak, Head of Listings – NSEIX.

The Colombo Stock Exchange (CSE) and NSE IFSC LIMITED (NSEIX), an international multi-asset exchange and wholly owned subsidiary of the National Stock Exchange of India Limited, signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) recently to strengthen capital market cooperation between Sri Lanka and India. Bringing together the senior leadership of both exchanges to formalise a strategic partnership, the occasion underscored the shared commitment of both institutions to building a more integrated regional financial ecosystem that benefits companies and investors in both exchanges.

Under this arrangement, both institutions will work towards introducing dual listings and cross listings, which will enable companies to list the same shares on both exchanges simultaneously, or to establish a presence on both markets through separate listings. Dual listings and cross listings offer listed companies a greater opportunity to increase liquidity through a broader and more diverse investor base and significantly enhance visibility among institutional and retail investors in both Sri Lanka and India. For companies in particular, access to India’s vast and deep capital markets could prove transformative in terms of growth financing and brand recognition.

Beyond listings, both the CSE and NSEIX have committed to working together to develop new financial products tailored to the needs of cross-border investors, reflecting the evolving sophistication of both markets.

The MoU also aims to enable bidirectional trading opportunities, giving investors in Sri Lanka and India access to each other’s markets. Furthermore, the Exchanges have agreed to undertake joint research initiatives, training programs, capacity building exercises, and outreach efforts for the mutual benefit of both institutions and the wider investment communities they serve.

Continue Reading

Business

Ceylinco Life chairman R. Renganathan honoured by CMA

Published

on

Ceylinco Life Executive Chairman Mr R. Renganathan receives the award.

Receives ‘Distinguished Recognition in the Profession of Management Accounting’ award for excellence in management accounting and financial stewardshipThe Executive Chairman of Ceylinco Life Insurance Ltd., R. Renganathan, has been conferred the prestigious ‘Distinguished Recognition in the Profession of Management Accounting’ award by the Institute of Certified Management Accountants (CMA) of Sri Lanka, in recognition of his outstanding contribution to financial discipline, governance, and sustainable value creation.

The accolade was presented at the inauguration of a workshop on Integrated Reporting and Sustainability Accounting Standards, underscoring the growing importance of integrated reporting frameworks and Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) principles in modern corporate management.

A Chartered Accountant by profession, Renganathan has been instrumental in shaping Ceylinco Life’s financial and governance framework since joining the company at its inception. Having led the organisation from the commencement of its life insurance operations in 1988, following the privatisation of the industry, he has consistently championed the principles of transparency, accountability, and long-term value creation, aligning the company with evolving global best practices in reporting and sustainability.

Under his stewardship, Ceylinco Life has strengthened its position as the market leader in Sri Lanka’s life insurance sector, a distinction it has retained for 22 consecutive years. His financial acumen and strategic foresight have contributed to the growth of the company’s Life Fund to over Rs. 200 billion, while innovative product development has enabled the organisation to extend life insurance protection to over one million breadwinners across the country.

The recognition also reflects Renganathan’s broader contribution as a thought leader in financial stewardship and sustainability, to elevating standards within the insurance industry, particularly in embedding strong governance practices and ethical conduct, while driving resilience and sustainable growth.

Ceylinco Life’s continued alignment with integrated reporting principles and sustainability standards reinforces its position as a responsible corporate leader committed to transparency, stakeholder value, and long-term financial stability. The honour bestowed on its Executive Chairman further underscores the company’s commitment to financial stewardship and its role in advancing best practices in corporate reporting and governance in Sri Lanka.

Continue Reading

Trending