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Refreshing, Peaceful and Romantic

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CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

The Lodge and the Village are two, iconic resorts in the dry zone of Sri Lanka. In the Village, Architect Somaratna Silva had cleverly created a rustic resort with an open concept with individual rooms appearing like small houses in a remote village. Located in the centre of the resort are the front office, bar, restaurant, kitchens, stores and swimming pool. Recreational facilities, including elephant rides, boating, tennis etc., are located close by, facing the Habarana Lake. Even on extremely warm days, the open concept design of the two resorts ensured free circulation of breeze in a refreshing manner.

The greatest compliment the Village Habarana received was when competitors copied the concept and operated similar resorts. However, none were able to match the charm of the Village Habarana, and the innovative management style of the hotelier who opened it in 1976, my friend, boss and bestman, the late Bobby Adams.

Two young architects, trained by the best-known architect of Sri Lanka, legendary Geoffrey Bawa, continued the open concept in Habarana, but with more sophistication, when they created the concept for the Lodge. Architects Pheroze Choksy and Ismeth Rahim extended the concept of ‘Tropical Modernism’ – an architectural style of wide-open spaces connected to the sprawling outdoors made popular by Geoffrey Bawa.

The end result was simply a masterpiece of architecture, blending beautifully with nature, and the seamless delivery of world class hospitality. These architects working with the visionary board of directors of John Keells/Walkers Tours, had created two resorts, which were simply a delight for any hotelier to operate. I considered it a great honour for me to get an opportunity to manage both resorts concurrently.

Judging from its simple brand, first-time guests arriving at the Lodge usually did not have high expectations of standards. From the time they arrived, I could not help watching tourists become amazed with what they saw, the welcome they received, the service they experienced and the quality of public areas, gardens, bedrooms, food, etc. which always exceeded their expectations. Under-selling and over-delivering standards is a good strategy.

I was often amused to meet newly arrived guests with orchid flower garlands around their necks, wandering in the beautifully landscaped gardens holding their welcome cocktails served in King Coconuts. They would be looking up at the majestic pillars and seven, decorative balconies above the reception area, while refreshing their faces with the ice-cold, white towels we served them. “Wow” expressions were written all over their happy faces.

A large section of our employees was from the farmer communities around the resort complex. They were gentle and eager to provide ‘authentic Sri Lankan hospitality’ showcasing their best practices at homes and paddy fields. With a little training, their service delivery blossomed to outstanding levels.

Unprompted by management, the room attendants wished their guests ‘good night’ using wild flowers during the bed turn-down service. This thoughtful service was done while the guests were having their dinner. My wife and I were always touched with this beautiful daily gesture. Soon I realised that they even did the flower greetings in German, French, Italian etc., after checking the nationality of each guest with the front desk.

The birds provided continuous welcoming sounds in the Habarana Resort Complex. I often woke up early in the morning, long before my alarm rang, to the gentle chirping of exotic birds near our apartment. During my time in Habarana I learnt that Sri Lanka is home to 34 endemic bird species, and total number of bird species recorded in the island is nearly 500.  With over 120 bird species, Habarana is widely considered to be a favoured location for bird watching in Sri Lanka.

Although Habarana is in the dry zone of Sri Lanka, which is always much warmer than the wet zone, the Habarana Resort Complex was relatively cooler. When the occasional rain showers that graced us, we had some challenges. In the 260 rooms of the complex, we had placed 520 large umbrellas for guests to use to move from individual rooms to the main building for meals.

I loved the rain in Habarana. Rain was also welcomed by over 2,000 trees located on our 40-acre land. It was peaceful and romantic. One evening, while walking from our cottage to the restaurant at the Lodge to have dinner, in the middle of heavy rainfall, my wife and I finally decided that after five years of married life and hectic global travels, now the time was right to start a family.

After successfully introducing sports tournaments for the staff, social events and training programs for supervisors and managers within the Habarana Resort Complex, our team got some new ideas. In addition to the Lodge and the Village, there were 13 smaller hotels in the North Central Province. “Can we do something to help these small hotels by pooling our resources?” one of our departmental managers asked during a brainstorming session.

Within a month, we formed a trade association which we termed ‘Rajarata Hoteliers Association.’ Based on the votes from the 15 member hotels, I was elected as the Founding President. We organized a monthly, best practice-sharing meeting and a get together of the managers of all 15 hotel. We also organized a monthly training session for the supervisors. Annually, we organized a large-scale sports festival for all of the staff.

One day I received a call from Mr. Jayantha Panabokka, the Managing Director of the Mahaweli Reach Hotel in Kandy. “Kandy hoteliers are hearing excellent reports about your association, Chandana. Can you please help us to form a similar trade association in Kandy?” So, I made a special trip to Kandy to share our best practices and the constitution. Later they formed the Kandy Hoteliers Association.

The largest professional association for hospitality managers in Sri Lanka was the Ceylon Hotel School Graduates Association (CHSGA). Having served CHSGA for four years from the late 1970s as the Treasurer and then as the General Secretary, I was very familiar with this body. Gradually a large number of senior members of CHSGA spoke with me, prompting me to become the President of CHSGA. With all this support, I was elected to this position uncontested in late 1985. My boss, Bobby Adams and the Chairman of John Keells Group, Mark Bostock fully supported me in these honorary contributions for the well-being of the industry.

As there were a few members of the CHSGA working at a nearby competitor hotel, Sigiriya Village, the Habarana Resort Complex had a special relationship with this resort. We shared best practices, coordinated room rate structure and regularly met their management team for recreational activities.

One of their managers, who was also a former student of mine at Ceylon Hotel School (CHS), Nimal Sangakkara, was a bodybuilder. We always targeted Nimal underwater because he was so strong. One day after a violent game of water polo, Nimal told me, “Sir, every time I come to Habarana to play water polo, I end up making an appointment for a post-game visit with the famous ayurvedic physician from Horuvilla who specializes on fractures and broken ribs!”

Unorthodox Management Development

A month before Christmas of 1985, Dave Kellaart, the manager in charge of food and beverage operations of the Village approached me with a personal request. He had worked as a waiter on my team at Havelock Tour Inn where I was the Assistant Manager in 1974. Dave was also one of my students at CHS in 1982, so I knew him well. I admired his ambition to succeed in the industry but when he asked me if I could let him leave the Village with just one week notice, I refused. It was very difficult to find managers at short notice to work in North Central Province or as some hoteliers called it, ‘in the jungle’.

“I have been offered the post of a Restaurant Manager at a five-star hotel in Dubai, with a salary six times higher than my current salary. They are demanding that I sign the contract now and join them next week. My family will benefit greatly from this offer. Can you please help me Sir?” Dave pleaded with me. After further thought I agreed, issued a good reference letter, released Dave on the same day and wished him every success.

I was happy to help my former student but now I had to find a replacement immediately, as we were in the middle of the high season for tourism. I brainstormed with the Executive Assistant Manager of the Village but we could not identify anyone suitable for the new vacancy among our 320 employees. While walking towards the front office of the Village, I was greeted by a young CHS trainee. “What is your name?” I asked him. “Anura Basnayake, I am doing my six-month industrial training in the front office,” he replied nervously.

I had not spoken with Anura before but had regularly noticed him. He was always well-dressed, well-groomed, well-spoken, very polite and professional in dealing with guests. He created a good first impression. I asked the Front Office Manager, Krishna, to release Anura for thirty minutes for me to have a chat with him. I sat with Anura at the pool deck and asked him, “Have you done the CHS four-month basic program in Restaurant and Bar Service?” Anura said, “No Sir, I have only done two basic programs in Front Office Operations and Housekeeping.”

Within a few minutes, I determined that Anura had the potential of becoming a good hotelier. I told Anura that we needed a manager or supervisor for the restaurant for the very next day. Anura stopped talking and looked very scared. “I have never done any meal or beverage service in my life,” he said.

“No problem, I will train you personally with the ‘must know’ basic technical stuff. You have the right attitude and will be doing us a big favour by taking on this responsibility,” I said. As Anura looked very nervous and confused, I told him, “Look Anura, those who jump into the deep end when there is an opportunity will learn to swim quickly.”

Anura was appointed as the Trainee Restaurant Supervisor of the Village that evening. From that day, I spent an hour a day for a week privately with Anura training him one-on-one, about essentials on tray carrying, order taking, food service, menu knowledge, wines, liquor, cocktails, sales, bar controls and supervision. Anura acquired the skills very quickly and eventually specialized in food and beverage management in a five-star hotel. Today he is the Director/General Manager of a number of hotels in Kandy.

Recently when we reconnected and became Facebook friends, Anura sent me the following message: “After I left Ramada about 26 years ago, I joined Hotel Topaz and still continue to work there. You changed my career and it helped me to reach the highest position of the Food and Beverage Manager at Ramada. It’s a very long story, but in short, you told me in 1985, that ‘if your administration is right, you can do any job.’ To date, I tell this amazing career development story to all my subordinates. Thank you, Sir!”

A Bachelor’s Party with Mark Bostock

John Keells Group Chairman Mark Bostock and his wife loved visiting the Lodge and the Village. Mr. Bostock was a very nice man and a charismatic leader. He was also very particular about standards. One day, when I met him at the restaurant of the Lodge, during lunch service, He complained about an old stock of gin we had in the bar. He said, “Chandana, from my experience, that Red Spot Rawlings needs to be taken in about five tots if I want to go pretty blind! Please tell the central purchasing people at Keells to get you some decent Chelsea gin as soon as possible.”

I told Mr. Bostock that evening after dinner that the 18 managers will hold a ‘surprise’ bachelor’s party for Krishna, who would be getting married next week. “Where is the party being held?”, Mr. Bostock asked me and I said, “It will be at the lakeside cottage.” “Perfect, I love that cottage. If you don’t mind, I will join you guys at 9:00 pm, the Chairman said. “That’s great, Mark. I can finish reading my book peacefully after dinner,” Mrs. Bostock nodded with a smile.

Immediately, I called Anura and gave him a special assignment. “Call all the member hotels of Rajarata Hoteliers Association and find two bottles of Chelsea gin, on loan, within two hours.” Mr. Bostock was very impressed to see the Chelsea gin at the bachelor’s party. He liked quick action. He was in a jovial mood and narrated a number of funny rugby jokes and practical tips for married men!

“Wives always test what their newly married husbands can do well. Krishna, if you impress the wife, you will end up doing certain tasks during your entire married life. Therefore, be careful, not to impress your wife!”

When we asked for an example from the Chairman, he said, “Well, when we were about to go on our honeymoon, my wife delegated me to pack a suitcase. I immediately placed some muddy rugger boots right over some of her elegant, evening dresses. She was horrified but after that experience, over the last 35 years, my wife never asked me to pack a single suitcase again!”

1985 Christmas and New Year’s Eve

Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebrations at both resorts were held on a grander scale. I shared with the team my recently acquired experiences in five-star London hotels. The main changes were full entertainment packages in each resort and planning well in advance.

In addition to the resident band ‘Burn’, we contracted another band and entertainers from Colombo. By getting the Executive chefs and Food and Beverage manager/executive/supervisor to share their suggestions and plans with all 18 managers in the resort complex, I managed to create a friendly, competitive spirit among the two sister resorts.

Some of the managers knew me well, long before my Habarana days. Two of them were my classmates from high school. Two of them were my contemporaries from CHS and two other managers had worked with me at previous hotels. While leading a large team, having previous “one-on-one” relationship with some of the team members is always helpful.



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Features

‘Lord Edgware Dies’

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It has been some time since I read an Agatha Christie, the plot of which I cannot remember. So, I was delighted to find on the shelves of a friend Lord Edgware Dies, which I had a vague memory of, but no certainty about who had done it.

When I read it, I found that my memory of who was probably the killer was correct, but I could not be certain and the red herrings Christie threw in were so diverting that until almost the very end I wondered if I had been wrong.

The plot is very simple. Jane Wilkinson, who is married to Lord Edgware, tells him that she is desperate for a divorce since she is in love with a very proper Anglo-Catholic peer, Lord Melton, but Edgware refuses to divorce her. She asks Poirot to talk to him, which he does, and is surprised to find that Edgware has told Jane he is prepared to give her a divorce. This was, after he had categorically refused, through a letter, which Jane said she had not received.

That night Edgware is murdered, after Jane had been to see him, or so the butler said, and also Edgware’s secretary. But Jane had been that evening at a grand dinner many miles away, where a dozen fellow guests could swear to her presence.

There was a solution however to the mystery of two Jane Wilkinsons, namely a skilful impersonator called Carlotta Adams who, in the opening chapter had impersonated Jane Wilkinson, who had also been at the performance. But when Poirot goes to see her, he finds that she had been found dead on the morning after Edgware had been killed, of an overdose. And in her bag was a gold case, with a strange inscription, that contained the drug, along with a pair of pince-nez.

Her maid said she had written a letter to her sister in America and posted it the previous night. Poirot asks Inspector Japp to get the letter, and a transcript is received from America, and in it the name of Edgware’s nephew Ronald Marsh is mentioned; he had taken Carlotta to dinner after her performance, with which the book opens, and had then set her a challenge. Japp arrests Marsh, but Poirot is not happy and asks for the original of the letter, which the sister sends him. That shows that a page is missing, and the tear is obvious, though that raises the question as to why it had not simply been cut.

Matters are further complicated by the fact that Marsh had gone in a taxi to the Edgware house, along with Edgware’s daughter Geraldine, in the interval of an opera which had previously seemed to provide them with cast iron alibis. Geraldine had gone in to fetch her pearls so that Marsh could raise money he needed, and thus had an opportunity to kill Edgware, as did Marsh, for the driver said he had got out of the taxi while waiting and gone into the house.

Agatha Christie

Marsh explained why he had gone to the house on the night of the murder as having followed Bryan Martin, an American actor, who had been in love with Jane, whom he saw go into the house with a key. But there was no one visible when he entered, and Geraldine almost immediately came down and they left together. And Martin too has become an object of suspicion to Poirot, for he had been to see him before the murders were discovered with a story of being followed by a man with a gold tooth – a story Poirot immediately realized was false when he was asked how old the man was, and was told he was young, for young people did not have gold teeth.

A heap of French money Edgware had got for a trip to Paris was missing, but since Marsh had no need for it after his cousin’s offer of help, Poirot deduces that it must have been taken by the butler, who has disappeared. Christie has stressed that he is astonishingly handsome, unusual in a butler, and Poirot notes a resemblance to Martin, so he thinks the mysterious man going into the house must have been him.

Incidentally, later Poirot assumes that Edgware’s change of mind was because he was involved in some scandal, and I believe Christie intends us to see the cause of this in his handsome butler, though this is not specified.

Meanwhile, Poirot has asked Japp to find out the provenance of the case found in Carlotta’s handbag, and it turns out to have been made in Paris, specially commissioned, and collected by a woman with pince-nez.

But then another murder occurs—that of another guest at the grand dinner, which provided Jane with her alibi. The victim is an actor who had been bemused when Jane, at a lunch, thought the Judgment of Paris referred to the city. He told Hastings he wanted to see Poirot, but was killed before he could get to the appointment. Poirot had rushed there when told about his request, but it was too late.

Meanwhile, Poirot has tried out the pince-nez on Edgware’s secretary, but she could not see through these. It was only a chance remark heard outside the theatre that led him to try them out on Wilkinson’s maid Ellis, a spare pair that had been appropriated for the night of the murders.

Poirot then lays things out, having summoned Martin and told him that he probably suppressed Edgware’s letter, as he had been dropped by then and he did not want Jane to marry another. But after teasing Martin, Poirot says that Jane was in fact the murderer, and she got Carlotta to impersonate her at the dinner while she went to the house and killed her husband. After meeting Carlotta later and checking with her through a call that she had not been rumbled, Jane had gone ahead with the murder – she put veronal into her drink and the case with veronal into the handbag. She forgot to take out the pince-nez she had used earlier to imitate an American. Carlotta had registered as the American in a hotel and Jane had gone to see her, and there they exchanged identities. After seen the letter, she made use of it by tearing off the page that referred to her, and the S of She, so that the person who had challenged Carlotta to impersonate her seemed to be a man.

There is a coda in which Jane, condemned to death, writes to Hastings, still full of pride at her ingenuity hoping she will be remembered.

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Desilt reservoirs, learn from our ancient irrigation systems

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Polgolla

by Prof. O. A. Ileperuma

Silting of reservoirs is a major problem today affecting our hydropower production and irrigation systems. The main Mahaweli reservoirs are silted to a considerable extent reducing the water holding capacity of them. Due to poor soil management practices, floodwaters deposit large amounts of silt in these reservoirs. When the Polgolla reservoir was fully drained about two years back, one could see mountains of silt in the lower reaches of the reservoir. A rough estimate is that 50% of the total capacity of these reservoirs has been lost to siltation. This is a serious issue which affects not only power and agriculture but also flood control.

Our ancient irrigation systems ensured that desilting of reservoirs took place under royal decree where all users of the reservoirs were ordered to carry out desilting of reservoirs during the dry season. The clay thus collected was used in making bricks for the construction of great stupas which dot the landscape of our ancient kingdoms. This ensured that the reservoirs had their full capacity filled with water for the next cultivating season. Our ancient kings were clever enough not to construct reservoirs by blocking main rivers such as the Mahaweli. A classic example is the Minipe left canal where they tapped only the surface water of Mahaweli. Even the bigger tanks such as Nuwara Wewa and Parakrama Samudraya were fed with minor rivulets. There were also other ingenious features in the cascade irrigation systems built by the ancient kings, such as mud sluice canals and forest reservations between the reservoirs in the cascade system. These reservations helped trap silt and remove excess nutrients, which could otherwise contribute to increasing salinity as water flowed from one reservoir to another.

Victoria

Moragahakanda

A classic engineering marvel is the former Yoda Ela, which carries water from Kalawewa to Nuwara Wewa and Tissa Wewa. It is 87 km long although the straight distance between these points is only about 40 km. The gradient of this canal is about 10 cm per km or 6 inches per mile. Yodha Ela functions as a moving reservoir and feeds about 4,600 hectares of paddy lands. It is a winding canal with about 120 smaller reservoirs on its way. It was constructed during the reign of King Dhatusena around 459 AD and later expanded by King Parakramabahu by connecting more reservoirs to the network. Unfortunately, during the Mahaweli project our modern-day engineers constructed a concrete canal replacing the winding path of this Yoda Ela also called Jaya Ganga. This effectively removed the ability of the old Yoda Ela to remove silt and nutrients. The bank of this Ela has wet zone trees such as jak and areca nut growing well. They take up the nutrients from the flowing stream making the water suitable for irrigation later.

Ancient Mesopotamian civilisations depended on dams constructed along the two main rivers, Euphrates and Tigris. After continuous irrigation of their fields over several thousand years, salinity of the irrigated lands increased making them unsuitable for agriculture. People died due to famine and this clearly illustrates the danger of blocking main rivers for agriculture. There is scientific evidence that the salinity of paddy soils in the Mahaweli C area is increasing.

We saw the devastation caused by Cyclone Ditwah. The sluice gates of the Kotmale Reservoir were opened, and Kandy and Peradeniya were flooded. If the reservoir had had greater storage capacity, couldn’t the opening of the gates have been delayed? This may not be an argument that modern-day engineers would readily accept, and I am not an irrigation expert. These ideas may well be naïve. But most of us tend to think of reservoirs mainly in terms of hydropower generation and irrigation, while their role in flood control receives much less attention. The question therefore deserves serious consideration. Could restoring lost reservoir capacity through desilting help improve our ability to manage extreme rainfall and reduce flood risks?

Desilting our reservoirs should be considered a national priority.

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Losing out to Ethiopia

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From Trailblazer to Tailender

Export diversification – Missing the wood for the trees – Part III

by Gomi Senadhira

In Sri Lanka, the word “Ethiopia” is often used as disparaging slang to describe individuals or areas experiencing extreme poverty, starvation, or severe economic hardship. This linguistic habit originated in the 1980s with the Western media coverage of the devastating Ethiopian famine of 1983-85. That media coverage shocked the world but also left an outdated and offensive global stereotype that the country is permanently starving. Much has changed since then. By now, with an annual growth rate of around 9%, it is the fastest-growing economy in sub-Saharan Africa. Ethiopia has also emerged as a highly competitive exporter and is challenging not only its competitors in the region but also countries like Sri Lanka. This article is on how Sri Lanka has lost ground to Ethiopia (and a few other countries) in the GCC markets for agricultural and floricultural products.

Sri Lanka – A Pioneer in the Agriculture and Floricultural Market in the GCC

As discussed in Part II of this article, by the mid-1980s Sri Lanka had established a strong foothold in the GCC’s fruit, vegetable, and floricultural market. Geographical proximity and well-established shipping and air links gave Sri Lanka a strong comparative advantage over Southeast Asian and African nations. Thailand, Vietnam, and Kenya were not even in the market. At that time, Ethiopia was experiencing (as BBC news reports described) “a biblical famine”.

The market was not very large, but it was lucrative and growing. Trade Minister Lalith Athulathmudali as well as the Chairman of the Export Development Board, Victor Santiapillai, who visited Kuwait (and the GCC countries), recognised the market potential for these products and encouraged us to continue with our work. The minister was particularly keen to further develop links between the market for these products, exporters, and his Export Production Villages (EPVs). So, it was becoming a successful case not only for export diversification but also for transferring gains from exports directly to rural households.

From Trailblazer to Tailender

As a result, even by the beginning of this century Sri Lanka had a larger market share than most of its competitors from Asia or Africa. But since then, our competitiveness has weakened significantly. The tables below provide a comparative snapshot of Sri Lanka’s performance vis-à-vis Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya and Ethiopia in the GCC market for vegetables, fruits and floricultural products. As illustrated therein, in 2001 Sri Lanka was ahead of Thailand, Kenya and Ethiopia in this small but rapidly growing market. Since then, we have fallen behind Thailand, Kenya and many other countries in that lucrative market. If this trend continues, Sri Lanka will fall behind Ethiopia within the next few years. (See Table 1)

In the GCC market for vegetables (covered in HS chapter 07), Sri Lanka was ahead of most other competitors in 2001. As illustrated in Table 1 , Sri Lanka had failed to develop this market, while Thailand, Kenya, and even Ethiopia had very efficiently increased their market shares. The GCC is a market to which Sri Lanka can supply some vegetables, like cabbages, by sea. It appears Sri Lanka had also failed to exploit this mode of supply.

We can see a similar trend in the market for fruits. Vietnam, Kenya, and Thailand have emerged as major players, while exports from Sri Lanka have staggered on slowly. In this segment, Vietnam has emerged as a leading player during the last twenty years and the GCC imports from Viet Nam have shot up from US$44 thousand in 2001 to US$346 million by 2024. In part one of these articles, I discussed the remarkable increase of jackfruit exports from Vietnam “…just $3 million in 2015 to an impressive $236.8 million in 2023” while most of our jackfruit production rots under the trees. This explains how countries develop their markets, geographically and product-wise. (See Table 2)

Sri Lanka’s performance has been weakest in the market for floricultural products (HS Chapter 06), which groups live trees, cut flowers, and ornamental foliage. When we first entered the market in the 1980s, the market was dominated by the Netherlands, and Kenya and Ethiopia were not even in the market. At that time, we identified the Gulf states as a market where Sri Lanka could have a dominant presence due to geographical proximity. Even in 2001, Sri Lanka was ahead of Kenya, Ethiopia, and Thailand. But by now, Kenya has emerged as the dominant supplier. Ethiopia is also expanding its market share and is the third-largest exporter. (See Table 3)

Missing the Wood for the Trees

In the mid-1980s, Sri Lanka first established its foothold in the GCC market. Since then, Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya, and even Ethiopia have moved well ahead of us and have become leading players. Why did we lag behind in our export diversification efforts in general and, more particularly, in the GCC market?

The reasons are very clear. After the initial attempts in the 1980s and early 1990s, Sri Lanka has not been proactively involved in identifying, developing, and promoting new products and markets, or protecting and further developing new markets already established. The focus has simply been on traditional exports: tea, coconut, cinnamon, and garments, while other products were almost ignored. In essence, we have been and continue to focus intensely on a narrow group of products and markets, and we have lost sight of the bigger picture.

(The writer can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)

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