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In Sri Lanka,This Centuries – Old Spirit Is Shaking up The Local Cocktail Scene

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More and more mixologists in Sri Lanka are using coconut arrack to make cocktails

And being served in trendy bars from London to Cologne

By Zinara Ratnayake

At an 18-acre coconut garden of Rockland Distilleries in Nattandiya, just north of Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo, Roy Jayalath begins his work early in the morning. Jayalath climbs tall, swaying coconut trees to collect the white, milky sap of their flowers. Balancing on two coir ropes, he walks across these tightropes from tree to tree until he collects enough sap to fill a pot. Coconut sap is the raw material for coconut arrack, an alcoholic beverage unique to Sri Lanka. Although this method of collecting sap, known as toddy tapping, has existed in Sri Lanka for about 2,000 years, arrack has only recently begun to reach trendy bars and foreign shores.

High-quality coconut arrack only has two ingredients: sap and water. When it’s fresh from the tree, the sap is sweet, tangy, and slightly spicy, with a strong fragrance of coconuts; it contains natural sugars and yeast, allowing the sap to naturally ferment into a wine-like drink called toddy, with an alcohol percentage of about four percent. A few hours after extraction, the alcohol content increases to about seven percent. The toddy is then distilled like whiskey; the alcohol level goes up to about 60 percent, at which point the drink is then watered down to 40 percent and aged in Halmilla (a tree that grows in Asian tropics) wooden vats for at least three years before the liquid is bottled.

The garden employs six “toddy tappers” including Jayalath, now 56, who tapped his first toddy at the age of 13 after seeing his two uncles climbing coconut palms. Jayalath shimmies up the trees twice a day now: once in the morning to collect sap, and again later in the day to tap each tree’s unopened inflorescence, or cluster of flowers, with a mallet to stimulate toddy flow. He collects sap from 100 trees every day.

A toddy tapper may climb and collect sap from dozens of trees every day

Rapti Dirckze, Head of Conservation at Rockland Distilleries, explains that toddy tapping is a generational craft passed down from father to son, but notes that it’s difficult to find young tappers today—despite the fact that a skilled tapper can earn decent pay of about 120,000 rupees ($470) a month. “People think it’s a job with low status, so the young generation wants to find other jobs,” she says.

Jayalath’s children, for instance, have moved into other labor work, he explains as he presses his palms together and says a prayer before ascending a tree. “[The prayer] keeps me safe,” he says, smiling. “The hardest part is to climb up. Most people think that walking on the rope is scary. Not for me. I’m used to it.”

There’s little evidence to suggest arrack’s origins, but according to oral history, centuries ago, toddy was given to elephants in the king’s army before battle. Robert Knox, a British sea captain who spent 19 years in Sri Lanka as a captive, wrote in his 1681-book An Historical Relation of the Island Ceylon that captives distilled arrack to drink. In the mid-1600s, the Dutch began the commercial planting of coconut trees on the west coast of Sri Lanka and exported coconut arrack to Malaysia and several Indian destinations.

“We call this area the toddy belt of Sri Lanka,” says Dirckze, noting that this region extends from Chilaw in the north to Matara in the south. “The best toddy is from here.”

Sri Lanka has had a complicated relationship with arrack over the past few centuries. When the British took over Sri Lanka’s coastal belt in 1796, they seized control of the arrack trade. Arrack production slowly declined over the following decades. There were many reasons for this, writes Michelle Gunawardana in the book The Adventure of Arrack: not only did importing countries impose heavy duties, but the British East India Company also later banned the transport of arrack and discouraged imports into Britain.

By the 1830s, the British had also tightened local production, ensuring that only licensed entities could produce and sell arrack. The British government later established the Department of Excise, which exists today, to control the illegal trade and allow only large-scale businesses to produce the drink.

Toddy tappers climb coconut trees to collect the sap that will become coconut arrack.

Around the ‘60s to ‘70s, when the coconut supply decreased due to severe droughts and labor shortages, some distilleries began to produce different arrack blends. Because these usually didn’t include much coconut, they were much cheaper than traditional arrack. The prevalence of such alternatives labeled arrack as a cheaper drink for the masses, explains Dirckze.

According to Nadira Jayasuriya, director of development at the Botanik Bistro and Bar in Colombo, local distilleries like Rockland are driving much of this surge, and customers are spreading the word on social media. She believes the growing enthusiasm is a sign that people are becoming increasingly interested in embracing native ingredients.

“There’s a global trend to highlight everything local. The pandemic made it even clearer,” she says, explaining that COVID-related restrictions limited imports and drove people to pay more attention to locally available ingredients.

“Earlier, people wouldn’t come to a bar and order arrack, but now they do, even when we have whiskey or scotch on the menu,” says mixologist Dhanushka Dias, who developed the cocktail menu at ColomBar, an arrack-focused bar at Colombo’s Cinnamon Lakeside hotel.

ColomBar’s assistant restaurant manager Mischel Bandara agrees. “ColomBar began as a destination bar to introduce Sri Lankan elements like coconut arrack to foreign tourists,” he says, “but it became so popular with locals. People come and order arrack bottles now, not just glasses.”

Rockland now produces several coconut arrack varieties, including a new premium blend called Ceylon Arrack, which is a mix of three-year, seven-year, and 10-year aged arracks. The taste is clean and smooth, with a robust coconut aroma.

One cocktail Dias developed is called Dodola, made with Ceylon Arrack, coconut milk, jaggery, nutmeg, and cardamom. The flavour is reminiscent of the popular Sri Lankan sweetmeat dodol. “When I told customers that I have arrack cocktails, they were reluctant,” he recalls. “But I was confident. And I was right. They loved it.”

Dias also created a cocktail called Padikkama, which tastes similar to bulath wita, a local betel-leaf-and-betel-nut mix commonly eaten after meals. “My idea was to develop cocktails with local elements, and when I thought of the days I spent with my grandparents, I wanted to recreate those flavours,” he says.

Another factor contributing to the increasing attention around coconut arrack is the growth of tourism. “When foreigners come here, they don’t want to sip a Scottish or gin cocktail. They ask for something local, something that is ours,” Jayasuriya says. Botanik Rooftop Bistro & Bar serves two cocktails made with Ceylon Arrack, both featuring many locally sourced ingredients: one includes pandan, king coconuts, and kithul treacle (made with the sap of fishtail palm), while the other includes tamarind and passion fruit.

“We had no idea how customers would react, but they are our bestsellers now,” he says.

Mixologist Nabeel Kenny, who works at the upmarket restaurant Monsoon Colombo, also sees the demand for arrack among tourists. “Customers ask us whether we have arrack cocktails,” says Kenny, who is now also developing arrack-based cocktails.

The popularity of arrack is no longer limited to Colombo or Sri Lanka. Coconut arrack is now a crowd favourite in London, where the ingredient is served in cocktails at trendy South Asian restaurants like Hoppers London and The Coconut Tree. Even celebrity bartender Ryan Chethiyawardene, who was brought up in Birmingham by his Sri Lankan parents, uses the spirit in mixed drinks.

“Arrack, one of the oldest and almost forgotten spirits from my homeland, has a very special place in our bar,” says Indika de Silva, owner of the cocktail bar Toddy Tapper in Germany. His hope is to offer a “cultural taste journey” with flavours and ingredients that are lesser known to the German crowd. One of the bar’s most popular cocktails is Jack & Jill, which features Ceylon Arrack, cardamom, jackfruit, and calamansi, among other ingredients.

Despite historical impediments, Sri Lankan distilleries and mixologists are reclaiming their pride in the centuries-old tradition of coconut arrack—and redefining it in innovative ways. “When someone says Mexico, people think of tequila. I want the world to think of coconut arrack when they hear the name Sri Lanka,” says Dias, “It’s our history and culture blended in one drink. We must celebrate it.” (BBC )



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Tourism gets a World Bank powered boost

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By Zanita Careem

With Sri Lanka tourism entering a new phase of growth, the Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs, Foreign Employment and Tourism, Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe outlined the Government’s forward looking approach, stressing that Sri Lanka must move forward, and must move beyond short term promotional efforts and build a tourism industry backed by clear strategy, stronger planning and measurable results. At the recent Press Conference, held at the SLTPB, Sri Lanka Tourism launched two World Bank supported consultancy assignments to develop a national tourism strategy and global promotional campaign road map, as the country seeks to attract high spending visitors and generate greater economic reforms. The National Tourism strategy planning consultancy for 2026-2031 will prepare a five-year framework, covering a forward looking approach, centred on transforming tourism into a more competitive sustainable and high value sector. For Sri Lanka, this initiative marks an important shift towards strategic, sustainable and inclusive tourism development with the aim of giving greater economic opportunities to the people. The Deputy Minister said the country does possess the natural beauty, cultural heritage and hospitality needed to compete globally. What is required now, he emphasised, is a coordinated approach that brings together government, industry stakeholders and international expertise.

For Professor Ranasinghe the way forward is not simply about bringing more tourists to Sri Lanka but about creating greater value from every visitor, diversifying markets, encouraging investment, strengthening the tourism institutions and developing a destination that can complete confidentially on the world stage. His speech reflected a clear message, Sri Lanka has the attraction, diversity and potential to compete with the world’s best destinations, but must be driven by stronger strategy, sharper global marketing and co-ordinated action.

He emphasised that Sri Lanka has not lacked tourism plans in the past. Previous governments and tourism authorities had undertaken considerable work and developed important plans but the challenges was that these efforts had not given the strength, continuity and implementation mechanisms needed to produce the desired results. The new approach, he stressed, is about giving tourism greater teeth through stronger planning, better governance, targeted investment, sustainable development and a much aggressive presence in the international markets.

(Q) Why is the launch of the National Strategies Planning Consultancy a major milestone for Sri Lanka’s tourism industry?

(A) The launch marks a turning point because it introduces a structured, evidence-based framework for tourism development. For years, Sri Lanka focused primarily on increasing visitor numbers, but despite strong arrivals, revenue growth lagged. This consultancy, supported by the World Bank, ensures that future strategies emphasise value creation, sustainability, and inclusivity. It is the first time Sri Lanka’s tourism industry is being aligned with global best practices, institutional reforms, and a clear roadmap for implementation, making it a landmark initiative.

(Q) What are key priorities that the new national tourism strategy will focus on?

(A) The new strategy prioritises enhancing visitor spending and length of stay, reducing revenue leakage by strengthening local supply chains, modernising institutions and regulations, and embedding sustainability across all tourism activities. It also emphasises skills development through curriculum modernisation at SLOTH, digital transformation of tourism data systems, and diversification of tourism products to attract high-value segments such as wellness, eco-tourism, and cultural tourism.

(Q) What major gaps in Sri Lanka’s existing tourism strategy do you hope to address?

(A) Previous strategies were heavily arrival-driven, with limited focus on yield per visitor. There was weak differentiation among destinations, limited integration with local communities, and insufficient institutional coordination. The new plan addresses these gaps by embedding sustainability, strengthening provincial tourism bureaus, diversifying products, and ensuring that tourism revenue benefits local communities more directly.

(Q) What is the vision behind Sri Lanka’s new global promotional campaign road map?

(A) The vision is to reposition Sri Lanka as a premier global destination by highlighting its unique blend of culture, nature, and wellness. The campaign, developed with international expertise, will use data-driven marketing, influencer collaborations, and destination storytelling to reach high-value markets. It aims to move beyond generic promotion and instead create a strong, differentiated brand identity for Sri Lanka.

(Q) How will this campaign change the way Sri Lanka is positioned and marketed internationally?

Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe: New international narrative for Sri Lanka

(A) Sri Lanka will be marketed not just as a tropical island but as a destination offering diverse, high-value experiences. The campaign will highlight wellness retreats, heritage tourism, eco-adventures, and community-based experiences. This repositioning will attract discerning travellers who seek authenticity and are willing to spend more, thereby increasing tourism’s contribution to the economy.

(Q) How will the Ministry ensure that the strategy does not remain another document, but is actually implemented?

(A) The consultancy includes costed action plans, institutional reforms, and monitoring mechanisms to ensure accountability. Stakeholder workshops and validation sessions will embed ownership across government, private sector, and communities. The Ministry is committed to ensuring that this strategy translates into tangible outcomes through structured implementation and regular progress reviews.

(Q) Are we ready to market Sri Lanka to the world at a much bigger level or do you first need to fix the gaps in the visitor experience before spending heavily on promotion?

(A) Both aspects must go hand in hand. While global promotion is essential to reposition Sri Lanka, the visitor experience must be strengthened to ensure repeat visitation and positive word-of-mouth. The strategy priorities service standards, infrastructure, and product diversification so that promotional spending translates into genuine value for visitors and communities alike.

(Q) What does the World Bank’s involvement bring to Sri Lanka’s tourism strategy that was missing from previous initiatives?

(A) The World Bank brings international expertise, credibility, and funding support. Its involvement ensures that Sri Lanka’s strategy is benchmarked against global best practices, with stronger institutional frameworks and better data systems. Unlike past initiatives, this partnership emphasizes sustainability, inclusivity, and value-driven growth, ensuring long-term resilience for the industry.

(Q) Will the World Bank’s expertise help Sri Lanka move from simply increasing tourist arrivals to attracting high-value tourists?

(A) Yes, the World Bank’s guidance is focused on shifting from volume-driven growth to yield-driven growth. By strengthening product development, diversifying markets, and embedding sustainability, Sri Lanka will attract high-value tourists who spend more, stay longer, and contribute positively to local communities and conservation efforts.

(Q) Will the new strategy place greater emphasis on sustainable and responsible tourism?

(A) Absolutely. Sustainability is at the heart of the new strategy. ECT-tourism, community-based tourism, and conservation initiatives will be scaled up to protect Sri Lanka’s fragile ecosystems and heritage. Responsible tourism practices will be embedded across the industry to ensure that growth does not come at the expense of the environment or local communities.

(Q) With the World Bank bringing international expertise to Sri Lanka’s tourism strategy, what is the one major transformation for the world to see in Sri Lanka as a tourism destination?

(A) The major transformation will be Sri Lanka’s repositioning as a high-value, sustainable destination. The world will see Sri Lanka move beyond being a volume-driven market to becoming a model of responsible tourism, where visitors enjoy authentic experiences while contributing to local prosperity and environmental conservation. This shift will redefine Sri Lanka’s global image and ensure long-term competitiveness.

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When food becomes the language of connection for Chef Sajesh Nair

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Royal medley of Indian flavours-at Nair’s Navaratne

By Zanita Careem

Behind every memorable dining experience is a chef whose passion transforms ingredients into something extraordinary. At Taj Samudra Colombo, the hotel’s Executive Chef, Sajesh Nair brings culinary artistry, precision and a deep understanding of flavours, curating dishes that are as refined as they are memorable.

With his passion for quality ingredients, attention to details and commitment to culinary excellence, Chef Nair continues to create flavours, turning the finest ingredients into culinary masterpieces, and transforming the dining table into a stage of indulgence.

Behind every memorable dining experience is a Chef who understands that food is more than what appears on a plate. For Chef Sajesh Nair cooking has been a lifelong journey, shaped by tradition, discipline, curiosity and a passion for authentic flavours.

With an impressive 30 years in the culinary tradition, including 17 years with Taj Hotels, Chef Sajesh Nair has built a career round creating a distinctive dining experience, while remaining deeply connected to the heritage of the cuisines he represented.

His journey with Taj has taken him through some of the group’s most prestigious properties. He was the Executive Chef at the celebrated Taj Falakruma, in Hyderabad, where he became particularly recognised for his expertise in Hyderabad and Nizami cuisine. “My philosophy was rooted in preserving traditional techniques while presenting them with refinement and creativity.” My passion for cooking began at an early age, “My journey was shaped by an early and lasting influence of my father.’’ It was through him that Sajesh developed an appreciation for food, discipline and dedication behind creating something truly special.

Turning ingredients into memorable experiences

His culinary credentials also came into spotlight when he led the team preparing an elaborate royal inspired menu for a high profile dinner at Taj Falakuma Palace, attended by Prime Minister Narendra Modi and Ivanka Trump.

At Taj Samudra Colombo, Chef Sajesh brought his wealth of experience to Sri Lanka’s hospitality scene. His culinary leadership extended to many restaurents, including the revamped Indian Restaurant Navaratne where he has created an experience, centred around cuisines from all parts of India. Adding depth to this culinary journey, Chef Sajesh philosophy fits naturally into the restaurant’s identity, offering guests an introduction to India’s culinary traditions while maintaining the standard of Taj hospitality. Navaratne has become more than an Indian restaurant, it’s a culinary passage to India with Sajesh Nair’s experience in helping bringing its flavours, traditions and stories to the table. Chef Sajesh Nair has a long Taj Hotel career and in Sri Lanka, as the Executive Chef of Golden Dragon – one of the hotel’s specialist restaurant, where he has brought his expertise and creativity to the kitchen, creating flavours that have delighted diners from all walks of life. His association with Golden Dragon, the Chinese restaurant, began in India where he worked at the restaurant as part of his early Taj Samudra hotel’s career. That experience gave him the exposure to the Chinese wider culinary techniques at the Golden Dragon Colombo.

Chef Sajesh Nair: Executive Chef, Taj Samudra, Colombo. Maestro behind flavours

At Taj Samudra Colombo, the Yumi Japanese restaurant is one of the hotel’s speciality dining outlets, His strength lies in creating dishes that balance authentic flavours with contemporary presentation, while his attention to detail and understanding of ingredients gave each creation its distinctive character. He embraced a wider gastronomic repertoire, mastering flavours and techniques from across the world. Chef Sajesh Nair’s culinary canvas extended beyond Indian cuisine. Nair’s role was not simply about mastering one cuisine but about creating different dining experience to suit different tastes. He curated extensive festive menus at Ports of Call and worked across the hotel’s speciality restaurants .

Chef Sajesh Nair’s journey extends beyond the restaurant kitchen with his career giving him opportunities to prepare food for celebrations, distinguished personalities and high profile guests in Sri Lanka and abroad. His work at the Golden Dragon and at the Yumi restaurent further reflect his versatility as a executive. Chef Nair led the culinary team at Taj Falaknuma Palace when a dinner was hosted for Narendra Modi.

Chef Nair and his team prepared the elaborate five-course royal Hyderabad/Nizami menu for Ivanka Trump during her Hyderabad visit. Mukesh Ambani and Ratan Tata both were among the prominent. Indian business leaders who attended the gala dinner. Among the distinguished personalities to experience Chef’s culinary artistry was Cherie Blair, who was among the guests at the glittering banquet at Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderbad during the 2017 Global Entrepreneurship Summit. He also curated menus for Mohamed Azharuddin’s wedding reception at Taj Mahal Palace. At this wedding he worked as a young Chef de Partie at the hotel where he won rave reviews. Later he steadily worked his way through the demanding hierachy of professional kitchens.

In Sri Lanka he has created menus for cricketers, both Sri Lankans and Indians. He was also the part of the team when he created various menus during PM Narendra Modi’s visit to Sri Lanka when he stayed at the Taj Samudra. He has also curated menus for all the higher profile personalities, like corporate clients and political figureheads, including the PM of Sri Lanka, Harini Amarasuriya.

From royal banquests in India to distinguished tables in Sri Lanka, Chef Sajesh Nair’s culinary journey is one marked by experience, versatility and an enduring passion for creating memorable dining experiences. His career reflects a Chef who has continually evolved with the times, while remaining rooted in the craft.

He quipped “For me food is more than what is served on a plate it is a way of connecting people.”

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CCWE National Workshop calls for collective action

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Yassas Hewage, Chairman, Industrial Development Board, with Amélie July, Deputy Director for Sri Lanka AFD, and Dr Ayanthi Gurusinghe

The Ceylon Chamber of Women Entrepreneurs (CCWE), in collaboration with the University of Kelaniya, brought together policymakers, development partners, private-sector leaders, academics, civil society organisations and women entrepreneurs at the National Workshop “Advocating for Change: Women’s Economic Empowerment through Collective Action.”

The workshop formed part of the FAME – Feminism: Action and Mobilisation for an Inclusive Economy Project, supported by the Agence Française de Développement (AFD), and focused on identifying practical pathways to create a more inclusive and enabling entrepreneurial ecosystem for women in Sri Lanka.

The national dialogue provided a platform to bring together policy-level perspectives with the experiences of women entrepreneurs and grassroots organisations, while presenting research evidence on the barriers, opportunities and institutional changes required to strengthen women’s participation in entrepreneurship and economic development.

Welcoming participants, Dr. Ayanthi Gurusinghe, President of the Ceylon Chamber of Women Entrepreneurs, emphasised that women’s economic empowerment cannot be achieved through isolated interventions or training programmes alone. She highlighted the importance of connecting women entrepreneurs with finance, technology, markets, knowledge, networks and policy-making institutions, while ensuring that the voices of women, at community level, are represented in national discussions. She noted that the purpose of “Advocating for Change” is to bring these different voices together and move from identifying challenges towards practical and sustainable solutions.

Dr. Gurusinghe further stressed the importance of collective action among government institutions, development partners, academia, the private sector, women’s chambers and community organisations to create meaningful economic opportunities for women across Sri Lanka.

Partnerships for Progress:

France’s Continued Support for Women’s Economic Empowerment, Matthieu John, Deputy Ambassador of the Embassy of France, highlighted the importance of partnerships in advancing inclusive economic development and reflected on the contribution of the FAME partnership in Sri Lanka.

Together we rise: power of collective action

He emphasised the value of strengthening women’s participation in economic decision-making and creating opportunities that enable women not only to establish enterprises but also to build sustainable businesses capable of contributing to employment, innovation and economic growth.The participation of France and AFD in the programme reinforced the importance of international development partnerships that support locally led initiatives, research, advocacy and collective action for women’s economic empowerment.

Creating an Enabling Ecosystem for Women Entrepreneurs:

Delivering the keynote address, Yasas Hewage, Chairman of the Industrial Development Board (IDB), focused on the importance of creating an enabling ecosystem in which women entrepreneurs can move beyond micro and livelihood-based enterprises towards sustainable, growth-oriented businesses. He highlighted the role of enterprise-development institutions in providing entrepreneurs with access to technical knowledge, technology, productivity improvement, business-development services, finance and markets.

Hewage also emphasised that strengthening women-owned enterprises should be viewed not merely as a gender or social-development intervention, but as an important component of Sri Lanka’s wider industrial and economic development

The National Workshop concluded with a call for stronger coordination and continued collective action among government, development partners, financial institutions, academia, the private sector, women’s organisations and entrepreneurs.

Among the broader priorities emerging from the dialogue were the need to strengthen access to finance and markets; improve technology, digital and business-development support; create stronger pathways from micro-enterprise to sustainable business growth; strengthen institutional coordination; improve access to opportunities for women outside Colombo; and ensure that women entrepreneurs have a stronger voice in policy and economic decision-making.

CCWE emphasised that the dialogue is intended to contribute to a wider process of evidence-based advocacy for women’s economic empowerment, ensuring that recommendations are informed not only by research and institutional perspectives but also by the lived experiences of women entrepreneurs themselves.

The workshop reaffirmed a central message: Women’s economic empowerment is not solely a women’s issue—it is fundamental to Sri Lanka’s inclusive economic growth, industrial development and long-term prosperity.

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