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A Sticky Sri Lankan Dessert Steeped in History

Published

2 years ago

2023/10/8

By Zinara Rathnayake

When I was five years old, I would love to sit beside my loku amma, solving riddles while she worked in the kitchen making kalu dodol. Loku amma was married to my paternal uncle, my father’s older brother. As a young girl, I loved my chatty, always laughing, childlike loku amma for many reasons. But more than anything, I longed for her kalu dodol, a dark brown, gelatinous Sri Lankan sweetmeat made with rice flour, coconut milk and palm jaggery. For loku amma, making dodol in her outside kitchen in Kurunegala, a town 100 km north of the country’s capital, Colombo, was a monthly ritual.

For about 2 kg of dodol (as kalu dodol is also known), you need 300 g of rice flour, fresh and creamy coconut milk from three mature nuts, and at least 1 kg of palm jaggery. Despite everyone’s tut-tutting about the domestic drudgery that dodol making entails, loku amma did it with a cheerful smile.

“It’s easier to buy it from a shop,” my uncle, parents and cousins complained. Loku amma brushed them off without a word, and headed off to their large, one-acre back garden dotted with coconut palms. Preparations for dodol making began the previous day with plucking coconuts. Her son would then cycle to the nearby mill with farm-grown rice, and bring home rice flour.

In the wee hours of the next morning, loku amma would halve coconuts with a sharp sickle and scrape their flesh for hours. Sometimes, her son would chip in to help. They squeezed the grated coconut in water to make coconut milk. Once her son made a hearth in the back garden with bricks, loku amma would add to a large vat coconut milk, sieved rice flour, and palm sugar — a specialty of her hometown near the hill town of Kandy.

For the next four hours, family members would take turns stirring the mixture. Their job also involved adding parched twigs and coconut shells to the fire beneath the vat. As it cooked, the mixture began to release oil. Once they carefully spooned out the oil from the kalu dodol batter, it slowly began to fuse, merging into a scrumptious lump that didn’t stick to your fingers. Loku amma laid this on a large tray, allowing it to cool for an hour before cutting it into medium-sized blocks —slightly crusty outside and wonderfully gooey within.

Making kalu dodol the right way demands time and effort

When I turned ten years old, I left for school in Kandy and my visits to loku amma’s house became fewer. After her husband’s death about a decade ago, she slowly forgot about her ritualistic dodol making. At age 75, loku amma now gently oversees while her children make dodol once a year in April, to mark the Sinhala and Tamil New Year. It’s been several years since I last tasted loku amma’s dodol, but whenever I come across the sweetmeat of my childhood, I think of no one but her.

While kalu dodol forms a happy, vivid memory of my early years, it was only recently that I learned that it is also deeply yoked to Sri Lanka’s history. In a paper published in the Journal of Ethnic Foods, the authors suggest that dodol — a sweet, toffee-like confection — is a heritage food of the Malay community, whose origins are linked to the Malay Archipelago, between mainland Indochina and Australia.

The oldest written records about dodol in the early 20th century are associated with the Malay community in Batavia, Indonesia during the Dutch colonial period. In 1926, an entrepreneur named Karsinah from the Garut Regency in Indonesia is believed to have initiated the commercial production of dodol.

According to the research, dodol is also a type of kuih, a Malay cake or dessert that “symbolizes the Malay identity and represents its history, lifestyle, and heritage.” As historical records mention, kalu dodol in Sri Lanka also traces back to Malay settlers on the island. Today, the small community has a population of around 40,000 people in Sri Lanka.

Although collectively known as Sri Lankan Malays, this diverse community includes people of varied Southeast Asian ancestry, from Malaysia to the easternmost parts of the Indonesian archipelago. In their paper The Lifecycle of Sri Lanka Malay, authors Umberto Ansaldo and Lisa Lim mention that convicts and enslaved groups of people from the Indonesian archipelago arrived in Sri Lanka as early as the 16th century, during Portuguese rule. But most Sri Lankan Malays trace their roots to the Dutch colonial period from 1658 to 1796. Deported political exiles from Java, Maluku and Goa, among other places, came to Sri Lanka.

Later, during the same period, more people arrived from Bali, Java and the Malaysian peninsula; most of them were soldiers. The Dutch formed a Malay brigade to fight against Sri Lankans, a practice also followed by the British when they occupied the island in 1815. Collectively, the native inhabitants labelled these groups from the Malay Archipelago and beyond as Ja Minissu or Ja Manusar — Sinhala and Tamil respectively for people from Java. When British colonisers noticed that the people spoke Malay, they gave them the ethnic label of Sri Lankan Malays.

Another theory goes that kalu dodol was introduced to Sri Lanka by the Portuguese. Perhaps there is some truth to this, as dodol has also become a cultural artefact in former Portuguese colonies such as nearby Goa, Macau, Tanzania and certain East African nations. “It could be true that colonial rulers brought it from Goa and South Indian colonies,” said Diwani Welitharage, a food blogger who researches widely about Sri Lankan food. “But the tradition of dodol making began in the south of Sri Lanka. So perhaps it came with Malay settlers who entered the island from a southern port.”

While there is little literature available on Malay cultural ties to kalu dodol in Sri Lanka, the dessert is believed to have its roots in Hambantota in the south of the country, which had a thriving Malay community in the past. The name Hambantota derives from Sampan Tota, which translates to the “harbour of the sampans,” referring to a type of wooden boat used by the Malays.

While the community has dwindled, Malays still hold fast to their heritage desserts such as dodol. Over the years, dodol has become enwrapped in other cultures and communities across the island. Sinhalese groups line the streets with dodol stalls during cultural processions in Kataragama, a town in Hambantota that holds religious significance for both Buddhists and Hindus. Meanwhile, Sri Lankan Moors, whose history traces to Arab traders, also prepare dodol.

There’s no doubt that dodol travelled across the world as a result of colonialism. Perhaps the forced migration of various groups hailing from the Malay archipelago also played a part. As this Malay sweetmeat moved from one place to another, shaped by the cuisines, rituals and customs of the communities across the world who came to embrace it, it became a celebratory dessert reserved for festivals.

For Goans, dodol is a luscious sweetmeat made during Christmas, while Thais make it to mark their new year, Songkran. Sri Lankan Muslims prepare dodol for Eid. This shared love for dodol has led to several iterations of the dessert.

The Thai community, for example, garnishes dodol with roasted white sesame seeds. The Malaysian city Melaka is famous for dodol pisang (banana dodol) and dodol kopi (coffee-flavoured dodol), among others. Another famous Malaysian version of the dish is dodol durian, which uses the odorous flesh of the durian fruit.

The most common versions of dodol include rice flour, coconut milk and palm sugar or jaggery. While Southeast Asian countries often use glutinous rice flour, in Sri Lanka, we often grind our own flour from local rice varieties, which are usually less sticky.

Kalu dodol means black or dark dodol in Sinhala. The darker it is, the better it is believed to taste. This is because the darker colour indicates the amount of pure kithul jaggery present in the dish. Although the Malay community in Southeast Asia often uses palm sugar from the black sugar palm or coconut trees, kithul jaggery is made from the sap of the kithul palm (or foxtail palm) tree, which grows abundantly in the low wetlands in Sri Lanka. Kithul jaggery lends a smoky flavour to the dish.

“But many businesses now add sugar,” said Ilma Nawas, a Malay resident from Hambantota who learned to make dodol from his mother.

Commercial dodol makers, Nawas explained, also swap rice flour with refined flour. According to Niwas, the rich oily texture in dodol should come from creamy coconut milk. However, this is not always the case. “We never add oil to dodol, but most businesses don’t use pure coconut milk or reduce the amount [of milk] that they use. Instead, they add cheap cooking oil to the mixture to give the oily [mouth] feel,” he said.

Apart from making dodol for festivals, Nawas’ family also occasionally takes orders. Depending on what people prefer, they add different ingredients to the batter. This often includes ground cardamoms. As dodol became commercially available in Sri Lanka, dodol-making machines made their way to the island.

“But they make dodol too soft and silky,” said Asha Sewmini, an ambitious entrepreneur. Sandwiched between assorted shops on a busy street in Nugegoda, a suburb of Colombo, her shop Dilani Kalu Dodol sells dodol from Hambantota, their hometown, where they still live. According to Sewmini, manually stirring the mixture lends the dish its signature uneven texture. “Some parts will be crumbly and lumpy while others are soft, smooth, and gooey,” she said. “That’s the joy of eating dodol.”

Sewmini inherited her dodol recipes from her late grandmother. Forty years ago, her mother assembled a makeshift stall during the procession season in Kataragama. “Our house sits along the Kataragama road. So amma sold dodol to the pilgrims,” she said. “People would see the stall, stop their vehicle and buy it from us.”

Dilani Kalu Dodol has expanded over the years. They began supplying to restaurants and supermarkets, and opened a small outlet in Colombo. Sewmini attributes their success to their hard work and the quality of the ingredients they use, such as adding enough cashews for extra crunch and always favouring jaggery instead of sugar. “It makes all the difference in taste and texture,” Sewmini said.

In the cosmopolitan towns of Sri Lanka today, you are more likely to head home with a slab of dodol that’s prepared “cheaply”, as Nawas calls it. But wedged between high-rise structures and profit-minded ventures, small stores like Dilani Kalu Dodol are still preserving their family heritage.

“I know we can easily profit [from dodol] by using sugar or cooking oil, but we never do that,” Nawas said. “I learned to make dodol from my mother; she learned it from her mother. This is our family recipe. The original dodol. Better than anything you can get in the market.”

Some people also opt for sago or roasted and crushed mung beans in their dodol. No matter what ingredients may go into dodol, the key to getting it right is to stir the mixture often. Stirring, Nawas says, helps form the perfect crusty outside, smooth inside texture. “It also prevents the batter from sticking to the pan,” he said. “Sometimes, my hands start to hurt. But I can’t look away. If you do, your dodol is gone; the mixture will stick to the pan.” (BBC)

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River of Life in Peril: Shantha Jayaweera’s Four-Decade Vigil in Boralugoda

Published

4 days ago

2026/03/22

Thilina Walpola

Shantha Jayaweera

In the quiet, rain-washed village of Boralugoda, where narrow streams slip silently through thick green undergrowth and the air carries the scent of wet earth, a remarkable story of science, persistence, and quiet resistance has been unfolding for decades.

At its centre is Research Scientist and artist Shantha Jayaweera—a man who has spent nearly 40 years studying, documenting, and defending one of the richest freshwater ecosystems in the island. His life’s work is not just about fish, but about a fragile world that exists beneath the surface of flowing water—often unseen, frequently misunderstood, and increasingly under threat.

“Sri Lanka holds a very special place in global freshwater biodiversity,” Jayaweera says, reflecting on decades of fieldwork. “But even within the island, there are pockets that are extraordinarily rich. Boralugoda is one of them.”

A Global Context, A Local Wonder

Sri Lanka is part of the Oriental region—one of the most biologically diverse freshwater zones in the world. Within the island, the lowland wet zone stands out as the most species-rich area, nurtured by year-round rainfall and dense vegetation.

But Boralugoda, located within this wet zone, is exceptional even by those standards.

“Out of about 94 true freshwater fish species recorded in the country, around 84 are found in the lowland wet zone,” Jayaweera explains. “What is remarkable is that Boralugoda alone supports 53 species. That is the highest number recorded in any inland location.”

He pauses before adding a sobering detail.

“Of those 53 species, 26 are endemic. And 23 are threatened—ranging from vulnerable to critically endangered. That’s a very serious signal.”

: Boralugoda Ella

The Secret of the Maguru

Flowing through this biodiversity hotspot is the Maguru River—a relatively small river with an outsized ecological role. Originating in the rainforest-covered Morapitiya area, it carries with it the ecological signature of its pristine beginnings.

“What makes the Maguru unique is its clarity,” Jayaweera says. “Most rivers turn brown as they carry sediment downstream. But this river remains clear, which allows sunlight to penetrate and sustain aquatic life.”

The river’s structure adds another layer of ecological complexity.

“It starts with fast-flowing, rocky sections and then gradually shifts to sandy, slow-moving areas,” he explains. “Different species are adapted to each of these habitats. Some are highly specialised and cannot survive outside the rocky zones.”

This diversity of microhabitats is one of the key reasons for the area’s richness.

Banded mountain loach

Red neck goby – endangerd now extinct from the area due to sand mining

“Fish like certain gobies and barbs are restricted to fast-flowing rocky areas,” he notes. “If those habitats are disturbed, the species simply disappear.”

Streams That Sustain Life

Beyond the main river, Boralugoda is crisscrossed by an intricate network of streams—fed by rainfall, forest cover, and underground springs.

“This area has one of the highest stream densities in the Western Province,” Jayaweera says. “These streams act as nurseries, refuges, and migration pathways for many species.”

The surrounding landscape further enhances this ecological mosaic.

“You have a mix of rainforest patches, home gardens, tea estates, and cultivated lands,” he explains. “Each of these contributes in some way to the overall habitat diversity.”

However, this delicate balance is increasingly being pushed to its limits.

Sand Mining: A River Reshaped

One of the most destructive forces to hit the Maguru River has been large-scale sand mining, particularly since the early 2000s.

“The riverbed has been completely altered,” Jayaweera says, his tone turning grave. “We’ve lost aquatic plants, native riverbank trees, and entire habitats.”

The ecological consequences have been severe.

“The endangered Red Neck Goby has become locally extinct,” he reveals. “And the Ocellated Pipefish has not been recorded for years, largely due to the loss of specific aquatic plants it depends on.”

The physical damage to the river is equally alarming.

“Sand mining has deepened the river unnaturally,” he explains. “This leads to bank erosion, collapse, and long-term instability. It changes the entire character of the river.”

Although recent policy changes have halted new permits, the damage done over decades cannot be easily reversed.

: Marbled spiny eel

: Red tailed goby – endangered

Tea Expansion and Vanishing Buffers

Another major pressure comes from agricultural expansion—particularly the spread of lowland tea cultivation.

“Since the 1990s, we’ve seen a steady conversion of home gardens and even forest patches into tea plantations,” Jayaweera says. “In some cases, even rubber lands have been cleared.”

This transformation has not only reduced biodiversity on land but has also affected water systems.

“Riverbank vegetation is often cleared to make way for cultivation,” he explains. “But these trees are critical—they stabilise banks, filter runoff, and provide shade.”

What is particularly troubling is the disregard for existing environmental regulations.

“There are clear laws requiring buffer zones along rivers and streams,” he says. “But many local authorities are either unaware or do not enforce them. As a result, these protective areas are disappearing.”

A Life Dedicated to Observation and Action

For Jayaweera, these changes are not abstract trends—they are deeply personal.

“I’ve been observing this ecosystem for nearly four decades,” he says. “I’ve seen species decline, habitats shrink, and patterns change.”

But his work has never been limited to observation alone.

Through the Organisation for Aquatic Resources Management (OARM), he has led numerous conservation and restoration efforts.

“We’ve worked on replanting rainforest species in degraded areas, restoring stream banks, and raising awareness among local communities,” he explains. “In some places, we’ve seen encouraging signs of recovery.”

His approach combines science with grassroots engagement.

“Conservation cannot happen in isolation,” he says. “You need the community to be involved.”

Where Science Meets Art

What sets Jayaweera apart is his ability to translate science into art.

As an accomplished artist, he uses illustrations and visual storytelling to bring freshwater ecosystems to life.

“Art can reach people in ways that science sometimes cannot,” he says. “It creates an emotional connection.”

His paintings often depict the intricate beauty of fish species, aquatic plants, and flowing streams—capturing not just their form, but their essence.

“When people see what is at stake, they are more likely to care,” he adds.

A Community at a Crossroads

Despite decades of work, challenges remain at the community level.

“Some people still treat rivers as dumping grounds,” Jayaweera says with frustration. “Plastic and waste continue to find their way into these waters.”

Yet, there are also signs of hope.

“A group of committed individuals regularly organise clean-up campaigns,” he notes. “They collect waste and display it publicly to raise awareness. It’s a simple but powerful act.”

These grassroots efforts, he believes, are crucial.

“Real change begins at the local level,” he says.

A Fragile Future

For Jayaweera, Boralugoda is more than just a field site—it is a symbol of what is at stake.

“If we lose ecosystems like this, we lose something irreplaceable,” he warns. “These species are found nowhere else in the world.”

His message is both urgent and measured.

“We need stronger enforcement of environmental laws, better awareness, and a genuine commitment to conservation,” he says.

“Otherwise, the damage will become irreversible.”

As the clear waters of the Maguru River continue to flow through Boralugoda—past rocks, roots, and remnants of a once-pristine landscape—they carry with them a quiet story of resilience.

And alongside that flow stands Shantha Jayaweera—scientist, artist, and guardian of a hidden world—still watching, still working, and still hoping that it is not too late.

By Ifham Nizam

Pictures by Shantha Jayaweera

Life style

Cheers to one year! Cinnamon Myst still casting its spell

Published

4 days ago

2026/03/22

Thilina Walpola

Perched in the heart of Sri Lanka’s hill capital, Kandy Myst by Cinnamon recently marked its first anniversary, celebrating a year of redefining modern hospitality in the historic City of Kandy. Since opening its doors on February 12, 2025, the hotel has quickly established itself as a vibrant lifestyle destination that blend contemporary comfort with the cultural charm of the region.

This property was designed to bring a fresh energy to the city’s hospitality scene with 215 modern rooms, the largest room inventory in Kandy. The hotel caters to both leisure and business travellers seeking comfort, convenience and stylish surrounding close to the city’s key attraction.

Within the first year, the hotel has achieved notable milestones, including become the first hotel in Kandy to receive Leed Gold Certificate reflecting its commitment to sustainable and responsible development. Beyond accommodation and dining, the property has also emerged as a hub for cultural events.

As Kandy Myst by Cinnamon enters its second year, the hotel continues to position itself as more than a place to stay. With its lively dining venues, social spaces and commitment to sustainability and community engagement, it is steadily shaping a new chapter in Kandy’s evolving hospitality landscape – one where tradition meets contemporary style.

Over the months the restaurant has hosted themed culinary events, special promotions and vibrant social evenings, further strengthening its place as a lively hub in Kandy’s hospitality scene. Guests have been drawn not only by the flavours on the plate but also by the inviting atmosphere that captures the essence of city’s elegance.

General Manager – Dhinal Perera

Kandy Myst by Cinnamon celebrates its first anniversary, marking a year as Kandy’s contemporary hospitality destination that brings energy, culture, and lifestyle experiences to the city. Opened through a partnership between Cinnamon Hotels & Resorts and Indra Traders (Pvt) Ltd, the hotel blends hospitality expertise with local insight to deliver a modern, energetic and lifestyle driven offering.

With the highest room inventory in Kandy, comprising 215 contemporary rooms, Kandy Myst by Cinnamon caters to both leisure and business travellers, offering modern comfort in close proximity to the city’s key attractions and transport routes. Its dynamic dining and social spaces; Grains Dining, Terra Lounge, and the rooftop Kosmos Sky Bar with heated infinity pool, invite guests and locals to engage, with panoramic city views, curated entertainment, and vibrant social experiences. Grains Dining, the buffet restaurant, serves an extensive selection of local and international cuisine, while Terra Lounge provides a welcoming café-style hub for casual meetups and social gatherings.

In its inaugural year, the hotel achieved significant milestones, becoming the first hotel in Kandy to receive LEED Gold certification, demonstrating a commitment to responsible, future-ready development. Reinforcing its culturally connected and globally relevant positioning, Kandy Myst by Cinnamon hosted globally celebrated icons such as Alpha Blondy and a series of high-profile local and international events, including the official trophy unveiling of the inaugural New Zealand U85kg Rugby Tour of Sri Lanka in May 2025.

Throughout the year, the hotel brought guests and the community together through seasonal activations, curated experiences, and loyalty-driven offers, contributing to strong engagement while supporting Kandy’s tourism economy through local partnerships and community initiatives.

As it enters its second year, Kandy Myst by Cinnamon continues to invite international and local guests alike to experience its vibrant dining, social, and lifestyle spaces, while reinforcing its role in shaping Kandy’s modern hospitality and cultural landscape. (Zanita )

Life style

Montblanc launches Explorer Extreme in Sri Lanka

Published

4 days ago

2026/03/22

Thilina Walpola

From L - R - Ravin Hiru Surtani, President, Head of Fragrances - Exclusive Lines; Deshan Dias Bandaranayake, President, Head of Operations - Exclusive Lines; Hiru Surtani, Managing Director - Exclusive Lines & Apsara Hiru Surtani, President, Head of Beauty - Exclusive Lines

Internationally renowned luxury Maison Montblanc has introduced its latest fragrance, Montblanc Explorer Extreme, to the Sri Lankan market through Exclusive Lines, the sole authorised agent for the brand in the country.

The launch event was hosted at Virticle by Jetwing, where guests were invited to experience the newest addition to the bestselling Explorer line in a setting that reflected the Maison’s enduring themes of adventure, refinement and craftsmanship.

Montblanc Explorer Extreme represents a significant evolution of the Explorer franchise and is the first Parfum concentration within the collection. Conceived as an ode to vast landscapes and the world’s most remote desert terrains, the fragrance delivers a deeper, more intense interpretation of the original Explorer Eau de Parfum. Its woody, ambery and leathery composition is crafted to embody courage, ambition and the drive to push beyond limits.

Hiru Surtani, Managing Director and CEO of Exclusive Lines, said the launch reinforces the company’s commitment to bringing globally celebrated luxury brands to Sri Lanka. “Montblanc Explorer Extreme Parfum stands for courage, ambition and the determination to surpass boundaries, values that strongly resonate with us at Exclusive Lines. We are proud to present this remarkable fragrance to Sri Lanka’s discerning consumers, offering a scent that captures the essence of adventurous living,” he stated.

: Treshan and Senuri

: Thiyasha

: Roshan Ranawana

Inspired by dramatic desert landscapes such as Saudi Arabia’s AlUla, the fragrance reflects the bold spirit of modern exploration. It opens with fresh green notes of bergamot blended with clary sage, creating an immediate sense of vitality. The heart reveals patchouli layered with Ambrofix™, delivering warmth and depth, while the base combines rich amber, leather accords and refined vetiver to leave a powerful and lasting impression.

The bottle design draws inspiration from the Montblanc Extreme 3.0 Collection, echoing its distinctive textured motif associated with modern travel and dynamism. Crafted from fully black lacquered glass and topped with a polished black cap, the design underscores the intensity of the parfum. Production and assembly take place at Montblanc’s dedicated Pelleteria workshop in Florence, Italy, with elements crafted across Germany and France, a testament to the Maison’s European craftsmanship.

The global campaign features American actor, model and musician Justice Joslin as the contemporary Explorer, set against striking desert landscapes that symbolise ambition and achievement.

Montblanc Explorer Extreme joins Montblanc Explorer and Montblanc Explorer Platinum in the line-up and is now available exclusively in Sri Lanka through Exclusive Lines outlets and authorised retail partners nationwide.