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A Mirror to the Sea: Revisiting Sri Lanka’s Forgotten Maritime Legacy

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Review of “Sri Lanka, Serendib & the Silk Road of the Sea” by Dr. Sanjiva Wijesinha

It is not often that a slim volume quietly arrives on the literary shore, only to awaken something dormant and forgotten within the national consciousness. Sri Lanka, Serendib & the Silk Road of the Sea, the latest work by Dr. Sanjiva Wijesinha, is just such a book—a timely voyage through history’s less-traversed sea lanes, executed with scholarly rigour, personal charm, and a deep-rooted love for this resplendent isle.

A few weeks ago, Dr. Sanjiva Wijesinha kindly sent me a copy of his latest book via email, inviting me to review it. Regrettably, I had to decline the request at the time, owing to a demanding schedule. However, I made the mistake of opening the manuscript—and within a matter of days, I found myself utterly immersed. What I initially intended to browse became a compelling journey through a monumental work that I now feel duty-bound to review—not only in support of the author’s efforts, but also to draw the attention of a wider readership to the profound value of this book.

Dr. Wijesinha is a familiar name in Sri Lankan literary circles, known for his earlier works in public health, memoir, and travel. But this book marks a definitive departure—an intellectual homecoming of sorts—for it revisits not the contemporary highways of health or personal stories of war, but the forgotten maritime arteries that once sustained and shaped the island’s identity.

Drawing on sources both ancient and modern, the work serves not merely as a historical survey, but as a meditation on memory, maritime movement, and the richness of Sri Lanka’s intercultural past.

A Historian by Serendipity

In the introduction, Dr. Wijesinha openly admits that his return to this subject was prompted by an invitation to deliver the Victor Melder Lecture in Melbourne in 2024. Like the Three Princes of Serendib—whose tale he explores in one of the book’s early chapters—his intellectual journey was itself one of accidental sagacity. The book’s very genesis, then, becomes part of the historical story it tells: an academic’s personal pilgrimage toward understanding his homeland’s global maritime heritage.

Indeed, one of the strongest qualities of this book is its autobiographical undertone. We are reminded that history is not merely the realm of grand events, but a mosaic of human connections, rediscoveries, and half-remembered stories. From the author’s anecdote about “samhrani” (frankincense) in his grandmother’s home to his participation in the 1990 UNESCO Maritime Silk Route Expedition aboard the Fulk Al-Salamah, Wijesinha carefully weaves personal recollection with public history—making for an engaging and relatable narrative.

The Forgotten Centre of the Indian Ocean

The book’s central thesis is clear: that Sri Lanka was not merely a passive stop on ancient shipping routes, but a dynamic maritime hub that facilitated the exchange of goods, religions, technologies, and ideas between East and West. Through nine tightly written chapters, Wijesinha explores the island’s strategic centrality in the Indian Ocean—drawing on ancient maps, Chinese pilgrim accounts, Arabic merchant records, and local inscriptions to reassemble a picture long obscured by colonial historiography.

Particularly striking is his treatment of Cosmas Indicopleustes’ Christian Topography, in which 6th-century Sri Lanka (Taprobane) is described as “the great emporium… connected by seaways with trading marts all over the world.” With refreshing clarity, Wijesinha discusses how mariners and mapmakers from antiquity often drew the island disproportionately large—not because of ignorance, but because of importance. This reinterpretation of cartographic “bias” as cultural salience is one of the book’s many nuanced insights.

On Ports, People, and the Promise of Potsherds

For the archaeological-minded, there is plenty here to savour. Wijesinha draws on recent excavations at Mantai, Godavaya, and Tissamaharama to suggest that Sri Lanka’s trade history extends well before the Anuradhapura period—perhaps as far back as 400 BC. In a particularly revelatory passage, he discusses the recent discovery of the oldest shipwreck in the Indian Ocean near Godavaya, dated to between 100–200 BC, which yielded evidence of an active transoceanic iron trade. These findings lend credence to the idea that ancient Lanka was more technologically advanced and commercially connected than our chronicles have led us to believe.

But he does not stop at trade. Wijesinha’s discussion of hinterlands and forelands—how rivers like the Malwatu Oya linked Anuradhapura to coastal emporia such as Mantai—is a testament to his appreciation for systems, not just sites. This geo-historical sensibility is what gives the book its intellectual weight. The reader is never lost in isolated facts; instead, they are invited to see the patterns that connect them.

A Critique of the Chronicles

In keeping with recent historical thinking, Wijesinha challenges the monastic bias of chronicles like the Mahavamsa, whose authors were more concerned with kings and monks than with merchants and maritime life. This criticism is not iconoclastic; it is constructive. The book does not denigrate the value of the Mahavamsa, but asks—rightly—what else was happening beyond its pages? Why were trade, commerce, and common life given so little attention? What did these silences leave out?

In the chapters that follow, the author introduces readers to a plethora of voices lesser discussed in traditional Sri Lankan historiography: Ibn Batuta, Li Zhao, Cosmas, Ban Gu, and even anonymous Jewish traders whose letters were found in the Geniza of Cairo’s Ben Ezra synagogue. These sources, elegantly contextualized and translated, add texture and credibility to the narrative.

The Past in Years to Come

The final chapter, titled “The Past in Years to Come,” is an eloquent meditation on the uses of history. Here, Dr. Wijesinha reaffirms that understanding Sri Lanka’s place on the Maritime Silk Road is not an exercise in nostalgia—it is a means to reimagine our national identity in a globalized world.

It is also in this chapter that the author strikes a subtle note of cultural critique. In an age where public discourse is too often shaped by chauvinism or postcolonial defeatism, Sri Lanka, Serendib & the Silk Road of the Sea offers a third path: one rooted in pride without arrogance, truth without dogma. If history must be reclaimed, Wijesinha shows that it can be done with grace, integrity, and wide-eyed wonder.

For the Scholar and the Seeker Alike

The language throughout the book is refreshingly accessible. There is no academic posturing, no excessive jargon, and no footnote-filled detours that detract from the reading experience. This is creative non-fiction at its best—lucid, learned, and leisurely. It is the kind of work that would benefit not just scholars of history and archaeology, but also general readers, schoolteachers, travel enthusiasts, and anyone interested in understanding the deeper currents of Sri Lankan identity. To its credit, the book also includes a useful bibliography, illustrative maps, and a charming set of “quotable quotes” that offer philosophical anchors for the narrative.

Final Reflections

In closing, Sri Lanka, Serendib & the Silk Road of the Sea is more than just a book. It is an invitation to remember. It calls upon us to look beyond our shores—not as isolated islanders, but as historical actors in a vast, interconnected world. It challenges the tired myths of insularity and reminds us that for much of our history, we were a nation of ships, not just shrines.

For the specialist, it is a welcome addition to the expanding literature on maritime South Asia. For the non-specialist, it is an absorbing and rewarding read, crafted with care and conviction. For all Sri Lankans, it is a gentle yet firm reminder: the sea is not what separates us from the world; it is what has always connected us to it. Accordingly, I recommended this work without reservation.

Sri Lanka, Serendib and the Silk Road of the Sea is available at Rs: 1500 from all major bookshops in Sri Lanka – and online from the publisher Perera Hussein Publishing House https://pererahussein.com/

By Avishka Mario Senewiratne, Editor, The Ceylon Journal ✍️



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Features

Cricket and the National Interest

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The appointment of former minister Eran Wickremaratne to chair the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee is significant for more than the future of cricket. It signals a possible shift in the culture of governance even as it offers Sri Lankan cricket a fighting possibility to get out of the doldrums of failure. There have been glorious patches for the national cricket team since the epochal 1996 World Cup triumph. But these patches of brightness have been few and far between and virtually non-existent over the past decade. At the centre of this disaster has been the failures of governance within Sri Lanka Cricket which are not unlike the larger failures of governance within the country itself. The appointment of a new reform oriented committee therefore carries significance beyond cricket. It reflects the wider challenge facing the country which is to restore trust in public institutions for better management.

The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne brings a professional administrator with a proven track record into the cricket arena. He has several strengths that many of his immediate predecessors lacked. Before the ascent of the present government leadership to positions of power, Eran Wickremaratne was among the handful of government ministers who did not have allegations of corruption attached to their names. His reputation for financial professionalism and integrity has remained intact over many years in public life. With him in the Cricket Transformation Committee are also respected former cricketers Kumar Sangakkara, Roshan Mahanama and Sidath Wettimuny together with professionals from legal and business backgrounds. They have been tasked with introducing structural reforms and improving transparency and accountability within cricket administration.

A second reason for this appointment to be significant is that this is possibly the first occasion on which the NPP government has reached out to someone associated with the opposition to obtain assistance in an area of national importance. The commitment to bipartisanship has been a constant demand from politically non-partisan civic groups and political analysts. They have voiced the opinion that the government needs to be more inclusive in its choice of appointments to decision making authorities. The NPP government’s practice so far has largely been to limit appointments to those within the ruling party or those considered loyalists even at the cost of proven expertise. The government’s decision in this case therefore marks a potentially important departure.

National Interest

There are areas of public life where national interest should transcend party divisions and cricket, beloved of the people, is one of them. Sri Lanka cannot afford to continue treating every institution as an arena for political competition when institutions themselves are in crisis and public confidence has become fragile. It is therefore unfortunate that when the government has moved positively in the direction of drawing on expertise from outside its own ranks there should be a negative response from sections of the opposition. This is indicative of the absence of a culture of bipartisanship even on issues that concern the national interest. The SJB, of which the newly appointed cricket committee chairman was a member objected on the grounds that politicians should not hold positions in sports administration and asked him to resign from the party. There is a need to recognise the distinction between partisan political control and the temporary use of experienced administrators to carry out reform and institutional restructuring. In other countries those in politics often join academia and civil society on a temporary basis and vice versa.

More disturbing has been the insidious campaign carried out against the new cricket committee and its chairman on the grounds of religious affiliation. This is an unacceptable denial of the reality that Sri Lanka is a plural, multi ethnic and multi religious society. The interim committee reflects this diversity to a reasonable extent. The country’s long history of ethnic conflict should have taught all political actors the dangers of mobilising communal prejudice for short term political gain. Sri Lanka paid a very heavy price for decades of mistrust and division. It would be tragic if even cricket administration became another arena for communal suspicion and hostility. The present government represents an important departure from the sectarian rhetoric that was employed by previous governments. They have repeatedly pledged to protect the equal rights of all citizens and not permit discrimination or extremism in any form.

The recent international peace march in Sri Lanka led by the Venerable Bhikkhu Thich Paññākāra from Vietnam with its message of loving kindness and mindfulness to all resonated strongly with the masses of people as seen by the crowds who thronged the roadsides to obtain blessings and show respect. This message stands in contrast to the sectarian resentment manifested by those who seek to use the cricket appointments as a weapon to attack the government at the present time. The challenges before the Sri Lanka Cricket Transformation Committee parallel the larger challenges before the government in developing the national economy and respecting ethnic and religious diversity. Plugging the leaks and restoring systems will take time and effort. It cannot be done overnight and it cannot succeed without public patience and support.

New Recognition

There is also a need for realism. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee does not guarantee success. Reforming deeply flawed institutions is always difficult. Besides, Sri Lanka is a small country with a relatively small population compared to many other cricket playing nations. It is also a country still recovering from the economic breakdown of 2022 which pushed the majority of people into hardship and severely weakened public institutions. The country continues to face unprecedented challenges including the damage caused by Cyclone Ditwah and the wider global economic uncertainties linked to conflict in the Middle East. Under these difficult circumstances Sri Lanka has fewer resources than many larger countries to devote to both cricket and economic development.

When resources are scarce they cannot be wasted through corruption or incompetence. Drawing upon the strengths of all those who are competent for the tasks at hand regardless of party affiliation or ethnic or religious identity is necessary if improvement is to come sooner rather than later. The burden of rebuilding the country cannot rest only on the government. The crisis facing the country is too deep for any single party or government to solve alone. National recovery requires capable individuals from across society and from different sectors such as business and civil society to work together in areas where the national interest transcends party politics. There is also a responsibility on opposition political parties to support initiatives that are politically neutral and genuinely in the national interest. Not every issue needs to become a partisan battle.

Sri Lanka cricket occupies a special place in the national consciousness. At its best it once united the country and gave Sri Lankans a sense of pride and international recognition. Restoring integrity and professionalism to cricket administration can therefore become part of the larger task of national renewal. The appointment of Eran Wickremaratne and the new committee, while it does not guarantee success, is a sign that the political leadership and people of the country may be beginning to mature in their approach to governance. In recognising the need for competence, integrity and bipartisan cooperation and extending it beyond cricket into other areas of national life, Sri Lanka may find the way towards more stable and successful governance..

by Jehan Perera

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Features

From Dhaka to Sri Lanka, three wheels that drive our economies

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Court vacation this year came with an unexpected lesson, not from a courtroom but from the streets of Dhaka — a city that moves, quite literally, on three wheels.

Above the traffic, a modern metro line glides past concrete pillars and crowded rooftops. It is efficient, clean and frequently cited as a symbol of progress in Bangladesh. For a visitor from Sri Lanka, it inevitably brings to mind our own abandoned light rail plans — a project debated, politicised and ultimately set aside.

But Dhaka’s real story is not in the air. It is on the ground.

Beneath the elevated tracks, the streets belong to three-wheelers. Known locally as CNGs, they cluster at junctions, line the edges of markets and pour into narrow roads that larger vehicles avoid. Even with a functioning rail system, these three-wheelers remain the city’s most dependable form of everyday transport.

Within hours of arriving, their importance becomes obvious. The train may take you across the city, but the journey does not end there. The last mile — often the most complicated part — belongs entirely to the three-wheeler. It is the vehicle that gets you home, to a meeting or simply through streets that no bus route properly serves.

There is a rhythm to using them. A destination is mentioned, a price is suggested and a brief negotiation follows. Then the ride begins, edging into traffic that feels permanently compressed. Drivers move with instinct, adjusting routes and squeezing through gaps with a confidence built over years.

It is not polished. But it works.

And that is where the comparison with Sri Lanka becomes less about what we lack and more about what we already have.

Back home, the three-wheeler has long been part of daily life — so familiar that it is often discussed only in terms of its problems. There are frequent complaints about fares, refusals or the absence of meters. More recently, the industry itself has become entangled in politics — from fuel subsidies to regulatory debates, from election-time promises to periodic crackdowns.

In that process, the conversation has shifted. The three-wheeler is often treated as a problem to be managed, rather than a service to be strengthened.

Yet, seen through the experience of Dhaka, Sri Lanka’s system begins to look far more settled — and, in many ways, ahead.

There is a growing structure in place. Meters, while not perfect, are widely recognised. Ride-hailing apps have added transparency and reduced uncertainty for passengers. There are clearer expectations on both sides — driver and commuter alike. Even small details, such as designated parking areas in parts of Colombo or the increasing standard of vehicles, point to an industry slowly moving towards professionalism.

Just as importantly, there is a human element that remains intact.

In Sri Lanka, a three-wheeler ride is rarely just a transaction. Drivers talk. They offer directions, comment on the day’s news, or share local knowledge. The ride becomes part of the social fabric, not just a means of getting from one point to another.

In Dhaka, the scale of the city leaves less room for that. The interaction is quicker, more direct, shaped by urgency. The service is essential, but it is under constant pressure.

What stands out, across both countries, is that the three-wheeler is not a temporary or outdated mode of transport. It is a necessity in dense, fast-growing Asian cities — one that fills gaps no rail or bus system can fully address.

Large infrastructure projects, like light rail, are important. They bring efficiency and long-term capacity. But they cannot replace the flexibility of a three-wheeler. They cannot reach into narrow streets, respond instantly to demand or provide that crucial last-mile connection.

That is why, even in a city that has invested heavily in modern rail, Dhaka still runs on three wheels.

For Sri Lanka, the lesson is not simply about what could have been built, but about what should be better managed and valued.

The three-wheeler industry does not need to be politicised at every turn. It needs steady regulation — clear fare systems, proper licensing, safety standards — alongside encouragement and recognition. It needs to be seen as part of the solution to urban transport, not as a side issue.

Because for thousands of drivers, it is a livelihood. And for millions of passengers, it is the most immediate and reliable form of mobility.

The tuk-tuk may not feature in grand policy speeches or infrastructure blueprints. It does not run on elevated tracks or attract international attention. But on the ground, where daily life unfolds, it continues to do what larger systems often struggle to do — show up, adapt and keep moving.

And after watching Dhaka’s streets — crowded, relentless, yet functioning — that small, three-wheeled vehicle feels less like something to argue over and more like something to get right.

(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law with over a decade of experience specialising in civil law, a former Board Member of the Office of Missing Persons and a former Legal Director of the Central Cultural Fund. He holds an LLM in International Business Law)

 

by Sampath Perera recently in Dhaka, Bangladesh 

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Dubai scene … opening up

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Seven Notes: Operating in Dubai

According to reports coming my way, the entertainment scene, in Dubai, is very much opening up, and buzzing again!

After a quieter few months, May is packed with entertainment and the whole scene, they say, is shifting back into full swing.

The Seven Notes band, made up of Sri Lankans, based in Dubai, are back in the spotlight, after a short hiatus, due to the ongoing Middle East problems.

On 18th April they did Legends Night at Mercure Hotel Dubai Barsha Heights; on Thursday, 9th May, they will be at the Sports Bar of the Mercure Hotel for 70s/80s Retro Night; on 6th June, they will be at Al Jadaf Dubai to provide the music for Sandun Perera live in concert … and with more dates to follow.

These events are expected to showcase the band’s evolving sound, tighter stage coordination, and stronger audience engagement.

With each performance, the band aims to refine its identity and build a loyal following within Dubai’s vibrant nightlife and event scene.

Pasindu Umayanga: The group’s new vocalist

What makes Seven Notes standout is their versatility which has made the band a dynamic and promising act.

With a growing performance calendar, new talent integration, and international ambitions, the band is definitely entering a defining phase of its journey.

Dubai’s music industry, I’m told, thrives on diversity, energy, and audience connection, with live bands playing a crucial role in elevating events—from corporate shows to private concerts. Against this backdrop, Seven Notes is positioning itself not just as another band, but as a performance-driven musical unit focused on consistency and growth.

Adding fresh momentum to the group is Pasindu Umayanga who joins Seven Notes as their new vocalist. This move signals a strategic upgrade—not just filling a role, but strengthening the band’s front-line presence.

Looking beyond local stages, Seven Notes is preparing for an international tour, to Korea, in July.

Bassist Niluk Uswaththa: Spokesperson for Seven Notes

According to bassist Niluk Uswaththa, taking a band abroad means: Your sound must hold up against unfamiliar audiences, your performance must translate beyond language, and your discipline must be at a professional level.

“If executed well, this tour could redefine Seven Notes from a local band into an emerging international act,” added Niluk.

He went on to say that Dubai is not an easy market. It’s saturated with highly experienced, multi-genre bands that can adapt instantly to any crowd.

“To stand out consistently you need to have tight rehearsal discipline, unique sound identity (not just covers), strong stage chemistry, audience retention – not just applause.”

No doubt, Seven Notes is entering a critical growth phase—new member, multiple shows, and an international tour on the horizon. The opportunity is real, but so is the pressure.

However, there is talk that Seven Notes will soon be a recognised name in the regional music scene.

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