Life style

A fish that sparked a national obsession

Published

3 years ago

2023/01/29

Bacalhau (salt cod) is a deep part of Portugal’s culinary identity. But the fish is found far from the country’s shores, so how did this love affair come to be and continue today?

On a cold winter’s evening in Portugal, it might come to your table com natas – fresh from the oven and bubbling in cream – layered between fried potato and sliced onion and spiced with nutmeg. Weaving through Lisbon’s steep and cobbled streets, it wouldn’t take long before you found someone serving it as a light and crispy fritter, dusted with a little coarse salt and dished up with a pot of pungent aioli. You could buy it shaped as mouth-sized fried potato dumplings pastéis style, flavoured with parsley and garlic, for a walk along the banks of Porto’s Douro River. You might even come across it as part of a hearty southern bread soup, topped with coriander and a poached egg.

That’s because bacalhau – or salt cod – which sits at the heart of all these dishes, runs deep through Portugal’s culinary identity, with the country consuming 20% of the world’s supply. In fact, so central to Portuguese hearts (and stomachs) is this ingredient, that the saying goes “there are 365 ways to prepare salted cod, one for each day of the year”.

But for a fish that is found only in the icy depths of the North Atlantic Ocean – far from Portugal’s shores – the country’s love affair with salt cod is a puzzling one. How exactly did it end up on Portuguese plates? The answer is wrapped up in more than 500 years of intriguing history.

Take a trip today to most restaurants, markets and cafés across the country and you’ll find salt cod in one form or another. It even plays a starring role at hip Lisbon restaurant Alma, which earned its first Michelin star within nine months of opening and added a second star soon after.

“It’s funny, sometimes Michelin star chefs or high-end cuisine chefs don’t value salted cod because they don’t see it [fitting] within this type of gastronomy,” said Alma executive chef and owner Henrique Sá Pessoa, of the typically humble comfort food. “But I always have and always will have cod on my menus.”

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.

“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”

The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.

“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Pessoa’s bacalhau

dish is just one of the latest evolutions of a long culinary legacy, one that’s wrapped up in centuries of history little-known to those outside the country. It started towards the end of the 14th Century, when the Portuguese navy found that the dried and salted fish could be stored for years in holds, making it the perfect food for long ocean voyages.

In the mid-1500s, during Portugal’s maritime explorations and hunt to find the coast of India, they stumbled across waters rich with cod around Canada and Greenland; a major discovery that kickstarted Portuguese cod fishing. But by the 16th Century, Portuguese fishermen were pushed out by the French and English.

In the centuries that followed, Portugal became heavily dependent on England as the main exporter of cod, and by the 1800s, the ingredient was something enjoyed only by the aristocracy. However, cod’s popularity expanded in the 20th Century during the reign of Portuguese dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who wanted to bring it back home. His “cod campaign”, launched in 1934, looked to reignite Portugal’s fishing (and drying) industry and instate cod as a national symbol. Thousands of Portuguese fishermen were sent to Canada and Greenland to fish for cod, with some bringing back up to 900 tonnes per boat.

But this was long, gruelling and often dangerous work, and many men never made it back home to their families. It continued even during World War Two when one Portuguese lugger – the Maria da Glória – was bombed as it headed towards the fishing banks on the west coast of Greenland, killing 36 people on board. These conditions still plague the industry today, with global fatality rates thought to top 24,000 a year, according to the Seafarers Rights International.

It’s this complex history that makes Portugal’s love for cod so deep-rooted, and it’s why Portuguese food expert and chef Leandro Carreira dedicated more than 50 recipes to the product in his new book Portugal, The Cookbook. In total, it features more than 550 traditional recipes from across the country, including a raw salt cod salad, which mixes bacalhau together with barbecued red bell peppers, onions, garlic and parsley.

“If I didn’t include [salt cod], I would have been in a lot of trouble,” said Carreira. “Cod has become so embedded in our culture over the centuries, since the trade of salt began so it was so hard to choose which recipes would feature in the book.”

That love of salt cod still rings true today. “I know people who have eaten cod for more than 30 years every day,” Carreira said. “My grandmother used to eat the same cod dish – cod with boiled potatoes, raw onion, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and parsley – every single day for lunch. Even I, and everyone I know, had cod at least twice a week.

“Cod is an incredibly flexible product. You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water. So, if you combine this with its affordability and its accessibility, you can see why [it’s popular].”

You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water.

Portugal today imports around 70% of its cod from Norway; the Norwegian Seafood Council describes Portugal as “by far the biggest market for Norwegian cod”. They add that out of the 100,000 tonnes Norway exports annually to Portugal, 95% is salted.

In Norway’s remote and icy fishing island of Røst, they even have a name reserved for the heaviest of cod catches: “Portuguese cod,” said Pessoa, who, as a former ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council, visited the island several times. “They know Portugal will pay the best price for that cod.”

This is echoed by Rita Karlsen, chief executive of Norway’s Brødrene Karlsen, which has been exporting salted and dried cod to Portugal since the company’s beginning in 1932. “Portugal is very important [to Norwegian cod exporters]; it’s the most important country that we sell to,” she said. “We couldn’t have survived without Portugal.”

This influence has spread far and wide to countries like Brazil, which imported 8.6 tonnes of salt cod during the Easter period alone in 2019, or Angola, which imported 308 tonnes of salt cod from Norway in 2012, according to the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod, Lisbon’s museum dedicated to the fish. In Italy, they even hold a salt cod festival, Festa del Bacala, every year near Venice, and in the Tuscan region they favour classics such as baccalà alla livornese, which marries salt cod with a rich, garlicky tomato sauce.

For other chefs in Portugal, salt cod bridges the past and present. Like Marlene Vieira, MasterChef Portugal judge, head chef of two Lisbon restaurants and the only female face within the chef’s wing of Lisbon’s Time Out Market, where her salt cod pataniscas (fritters) have won her accolades.

She explained how the fritter recipe was passed down from her grandmother, who came from a poor background. This meant she typically used the cheaper tail cuts of the fish in the batter, which had less moisture and resulted in a crispier finish “like tempura” – an excellent companion to the roasted red pepper and garlic mayonnaise that Vieira now serves with it.

As a child, she remembers helping her grandmother in the kitchen “to do the things she wouldn’t like to do”, like peeling onions, garlic and of course carefully picking out any bones left in the salt cod.

Today, while nodding to tradition, Vieira is keen to further promote the fish along with seafood local to Portugal – and her high-end restaurant Marlene focuses on just that. She even cooks it at home for her daughter, who, she said, “loves, loves, loves cod” – proof perhaps that despite the lengths the country has to go to secure this North Atlantic fish, the passion for it will continue to flow through Portuguese veins for generations to come.

–BBC

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Life style

Charting a new course for Sri Lankan tourism

Published

7 days ago

2026/06/7

Thilina Walpola

Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe on sustainability, growth and the future of tourism

Tourism remains one of the most powerful drivers of economic growth and cultural exchange in Sri Lanka.

As the tourist industry continues its post pandemic recovery and looks toward a more sustainable and innovative future, the role of strategic planning and policy direction has been more important. In this interview Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe, Deputy Minister of Tourism,, and a respected academic in this field shares his insight on the current state of the Sri Lankan tourism industry, emerging trends, challenges facing the sector and the governments vision for positioning Sri Lanka as a leading global destination.

With a vision focused on sustainability, innovation, and destination competitiveness, he is playing a pivottal role in shaping the future of Sri Lanka’s tourism industry. He shares his insights on the opportunities, challeges,and strategic direction of tourism in the years ahead. A first class graduate of Rajarata University and holds an MBA and a doctorate from Sichuan University, China. He launched Sri Lanka’s first Tourism and Hospitality Management degree at Uva Wellassa , endorsed by the UNWTO.

Excerpts of the interview.

(Q) Are you seeing a decline in visitors in Sri Lanka due to geo-political tensions?What segments of the tourism industry are most affected: luxury, leisure or group travel?

(A) Sri Lanka has not experienced a dramatic decline in arrivals, overall, but global geopolitical tensions do influence travel sentiment. The most affected segments are group travel and leisure tourism, as these travellers are more sensitive to perceptions of safety. Luxury tourism remains comparatively resilient, with high-end visitors continuing to seek curated, exclusive experiences.

(Q) Is Sri Lanka experiencing cancellations or postponements from travellers in conflicted zones? Are hotels and resorts reporting reduced occupancy linked to uncertainty in the region?

(A) Yes, there have been cancellations and postponements from travellers originating in conflict affected regions, particularly the Middle East. Some hotels and resorts have reported reduced occupancy during peak uncertainty periods. However, arrivals from other regions remain strong, balancing the overall impact.

(Q) What measures is the Sri Lankan tourism sector taking to mitigate the impact of local stability?

(A) The Ministry has adopted a proactive approach:

Transparent communication through embassies, airlines, and official tourism portals.

Safety protocols coordinated with law enforcement and emergency services.

Marketing resilience campaigns highlighting Sri Lanka’s stability and diverse attractions.

Stakeholder engagement with hoteliers, tour operators, and airlines to align strategies.

(Q) Do you expect a short-term disruption or long-term impact on Sri Lanka’s tourism growth?

Are you seeing early warning signs such as cancellations, reduced flight bookings or shorter stays?

(A) We anticipate short-term disruptions rather than long term setbacks. Early warning signs such as reduced flight bookings and shorter stays are being monitored. However, Sri Lanka’s fundamentals — diverse attractions, strong hospitality, and cultural authenticity — remain intact, ensuring recovery once tensions ease.

(Q) Boutique luxury tourism is often seen as niche – how central is it to Sri Lanka’s overall tourism strategy right now?

(A) Boutique luxury is central to our tourism strategy. It attracts high value travellers who contribute significantly to foreign exchange earnings while demanding sustainable, authentic experiences. This segment also diversifies our tourism portfolio beyond mass tourism, making the industry more resilient.

(Q) How is the government defining boutique luxury in Sri Lankan context?

(A) Boutique luxury in Sri Lanka is defined by personalised, small scale experiences rooted in cultural and natural heritage. It emphasises exclusivity, authenticity, and sustainability rather than sheer opulence, offering intimate stays in properties that reflect local architecture and traditions.

(Q) What makes Sri Lanka uniquely competitive in boutique luxury compared to destinations like the Maldives, Thailand and Bali?

(A) Sri Lanka’s strength lies in its diversity. Unlike the Maldives, which is primarily a beach destination, or Bali and Thailand, which focus heavily on wellness and nightlife, Sri Lanka offers a multifaceted experience: pristine beaches, UNESCO heritage sites, wildlife safaris, tea plantations, and Ayurveda wellness — all within short travel distances. This variety, combined with boutique hospitality, makes us uniquely competitive.

(Q) How do you balance encouraging foreign investment while preserving Sri Lanka’s cultural authenticity?

(A) We welcome foreign investment but ensure it aligns with our cultural identity. Guidelines require investors to integrate local design, employ Sri Lankan staff, and source materials locally. This ensures development enhances our heritage rather than dilutes it, creating partnerships that benefit both investors and communities.

(Q) Boutique luxury often interacts with sustainability – how is the Ministry ensuring that growth in this segment benefits local communities?

(A) The Ministry ensures boutique luxury growth benefits communities by:

Promoting local sourcing of food, crafts, and services.

Supporting eco friendly construction and operations in boutique resorts.

Encouraging community-based tourism initiatives where locals directly participate in guiding, hosting, and cultural performances.

(Q) How do you retain skilled hospitality professionals within Sri Lanka?

(A) Retention is achieved through:

Competitive compensation aligned with international standards.

Continuous training programmes in partnership with global hospitality schools.

Career pathways that allow professionals to grow within Sri Lanka.

Recognition programmes to celebrate excellence in service.

(Q) Where do you see Sri Lanka’s boutique luxury tourism sector in the next five years?

(A)In the next five years, Sri Lanka aims to be recognised as a regional leader in boutique luxury tourism. We envision a network of boutique properties integrated into cultural and ecological landscapes, offering world class service while maintaining authenticity. This sector will be a key driver of sustainable growth and foreign exchange earnings.

(Q) What markets are you targeting for boutique luxury tours?

(A) We are targeting highspending travellers from Europe, North America, and East Asia. These markets value exclusivity, sustainability, and authenticity — qualities that Sri Lanka’s boutique luxury sector embodies. We are also exploring niche markets such as wellness travellers and cultural enthusiasts.

(Q) How has the ongoing conflict between Iran and Israel affected overall tourism arrivals in Sri Lanka?

(A) The ongoing conflict has created uncertainty in global travel, particularly in the Middle East. While Sri Lanka has not experienced a dramatic decline, arrivals from conflict adjacent regions have slowed. To mitigate this, we are diversifying source markets, strengthening promotions in Europe and Asia, and reassuring travellers through diplomatic channels and tourism partners.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

Life style

Serenity Tissa; Gateway to southern Sri Lanka’s timeless heritage

Published

7 days ago

2026/06/7

Thilina Walpola

Elegant architecture and traquil setting offers guests a peaceful escape

As Sri Lanka’s southern tourism corridor continues to attract travellers from across the globe, Serenity Tissa stands out as a destination where comfort, culture and nature come together in perfect harmony, offering guests an unforgettable journey into the soul of the island, southern heritage.

While many visitors journey through the Cultural Triangle in search of the Island’s ancient treasures, Tissamaharama itself stands as a destination rich in history, culture and natural beauty.

Set amidst this historic landscape of Tissamaharama, Serenity Tissa offers a unique retreat in the cradle of Southern Civilisation .

Nestled in the historic heartland of Tissamaharama Serenity Tissa offers far more than a comfortable stay, it delivers an experience deeply rooted in Sri Lanka’s Southern charm, cultured heritage and natural beauty.

Surrounded by the tranquil atmosphere of Tissa Wewa and located within easy reach of the famed Yala National Park, the boutique-style property has steadily earned a reputation among both local and international travellers seeking serenity, comfort and authentic Southern hospitality. Build on the grounds of an ancestral home, once owned by Patric De Silva, Serenity Tissa gracefully blends the warmth of a family residence with the conversion to a modern boutique-style hotel. Fortress inspired architecture, lush mango tress and peaceful open space create a welcoming retreat for travellers eager to explore the cultural and wildlife treasures of Sri Lanka’s deep South.

The hotel’s strategic location places guest close to some of the regions most treasured landmarks, including Yala and Bundala National Park, Tissamaharama Raja Maha Vihara, Kirinda Temple, Yatala Vihara and Sandagari Stupa, to mention a few.

: Beautiful blend of nature, comfort and hospitality

: Sanctuary of calm and rejuvention, offers the perfect escape

: Elegantly designed for comfort

: Authentic Sri Lankan flavours

For adventure seeking, safari excursions this place remains a major attraction, while those seeking relaxation they can simply unwind besides the hotel’s swimming pool or enjoy the calm beauty of the surrounding landscape. Serenity Tissa rooms are designed with simplicity and comfort in mind, offering a range of accommodation options suitable for couples, families and groups.

Managing Director Ajith de Silva dedication and commitment

Spacious interiors and warm hospitality have consistently drawn praises from guests from around the world. Dining at the hotel is another memorable highlight. The open air restaurant celebrates the bold and aesthetic flavours of Southern Sri Lankan cuisines with dishes inspired by coastal traditions and local village, kitchens. Fresh sea food delicacies, rich curries and fragrant spices combine to create a culinary experiences that reflects the region’s vibrant food culture. The executive chef Rushira, who has years of experience, said ‘At Serenity Tissa Southern hospitality with refined experience, inspired by Sri Lankan rich cultural and culinary heritage is bought to life in all our dishes. Ambul Thiyal. mouthwatering pol sambol, sea food kottu, all reflecting bold flavours of the south. The use of coconut milk, aromatic spices, creates a memorable culinary journey that introduce visitors to the local tastes.

His passion for authentic Southern Sri Lankan cuisine shines though every dish, offering guests an unforgettable experience. Under the leadership of the Managing Director Ajith de Silva, he has played a pivotal role in tranforning a family inspired hospitality, into one of Tissamaharama’s most welcoming boutique destinations.

Guided by his vision Serenity Tissa has emerged as a distinctive hospitality destination in Sri Lanka’s southern vision, offering the warm and personalised hospitality for which Serenity Tissa is renowned for. Frequently praised by guests, numerous reviews full attention, memorable guests experiences makes it a preferred choice for travellers exploring the historic attractions of the region

What is so special about Serenity Tissa is the personalised hospitality, numerous traveller reviews, dedication of the staff, a blend of warm Sri Lankan hospitality personalised services and authentic local experiences.

Ajith de Silva’s vision has helped position the property as a preferred base for travellers exploring the cultural and natural wonders of Tissamaharama Hotel The Manager Thushara Samarasuriya whose dedication and attention in detail have also contributed significantly to the hotel’s reputation for excellence.

Serenity Tissa offers a gateway to the history, culture and natural wonders of Southern Sri Lanka Under the guidance of its dedicated team, Serenity Tissa continues to create lasting memories for guests from around the world.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

Life style

Sabina Yousaf shines as the face of Tiesh

Published

7 days ago

2026/06/7

Thilina Walpola

Sabina Yousaf, the newest face of Tiesh

Tiesh Sri Lanka, renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and celebration of Sri Lankan gemstones, has appointed Sabina Yousaf as the newest face of the brand. The partnership marks a significant milestone for both Tiesh and Sabina, uniting two names that embody grace, sophistication, and a deep appreciation for heritage and craftsmanship.

Sabina Yousaf recently brought pride to Sri Lanka on the global stage when she was crowned Second Runner-Up at the 41st Mrs World pageant. As the reigning Mrs World Sri Lanka, she has captivated audiences locally and internationally with her poise, intelligence, and charisma, becoming an inspiring figure admired by many across the country.

A successful businesswoman and passionate advocate for community empowerment, Sabina’s values closely align with the philosophy of Tiesh. Her commitment to giving back to society reflects the principles long championed by Founder and Managing Director of Tiesh, Lasantha De Fonseka, who has consistently emphasised compassion, generosity, and supporting communities, values that have also been instilled in the next generation of the brand, Thiyasha and Ayesh De Fonseka.

Sabina with the Directors of Tiesh (From Left): Thiyasha, Lasantha, Bryony, and Ayesh De Fonseka

Thiyasha and Ayesh – passionate about thier business

With a legacy spanning over two decades, Tiesh Sri Lanka has established itself as one of the country’s leading jewellery brands, celebrated for blending contemporary elegance with the natural beauty of Sri Lankan gemstones. Beyond jewellery, the brand has become a destination that educates and inspires, offering customers an appreciation of fine craftsmanship, artistry, and heritage.

Renowned for its dedication to excellence, Tiesh continues to uphold its legacy of creating jewellery that epitomises luxury, sophistication, and meticulous attention to detail. Every creation is thoughtfully designed and expertly crafted by skilled local artisans using the finest precious stones, reflecting the brand’s unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity.

Commenting on the collaboration, Founder and Managing Director of Tiesh, Lasantha De Fonseka stated, “Sabina embodies everything that Tiesh stands for: elegance, confidence, authenticity, and grace. Her inspiring journey, both nationally and internationally, resonates strongly with our values as a brand. We are delighted to welcome her into the Tiesh family as she represents the spirit of the modern Sri Lankan woman with remarkable strength and sophistication.”

Tiesh Director, Ayesh De Fonseka added, “We are incredibly excited to have Sabina as the face of Tiesh. She is admired both locally and internationally, and her presence brings a fresh sense of modern femininity and confidence to the brand. This partnership reflects our vision of positioning Tiesh on a greater global platform while remaining deeply rooted in Sri Lankan heritage and craftsmanship.”

Speaking on the partnership, Sabina Yousaf expressed her admiration for the brand and the significance of becoming its newest ambassador.

“For me, Tiesh is far more than a jewellery brand. It represents history, artistry, and an enduring passion for craftsmanship. What makes Tiesh truly exceptional is its deep connection to the heritage of Sri Lankan gemstones and the incredible artistry behind every creation. Each piece reflects elegance, individuality, and timeless beauty,” she said.

“This collaboration feels incredibly meaningful because the brand aligns so naturally with my own personal style, values, and appreciation for authenticity. I am genuinely grateful for the opportunity to work with a brand that I deeply admire and respect.”

She further added, “Jewellery, to me, is a powerful form of self-expression. It reflects individuality, personality, and confidence. The pieces we choose often tell a story about who we are, and I believe jewellery has the ability not only to elevate one’s style, but also to inspire confidence and presence.”

The collaboration between Tiesh and Sabina Yousaf symbolises a shared vision of elegance, empowerment, and timeless beauty. As the brand continues to evolve while honouring its rich legacy, this partnership further strengthens Tiesh’s position as a leading name in contemporary luxury jewellery. (ZC)