Life style
A fish that sparked a national obsession
Bacalhau (salt cod) is a deep part of Portugal’s culinary identity. But the fish is found far from the country’s shores, so how did this love affair come to be and continue today?
On a cold winter’s evening in Portugal, it might come to your table com natas – fresh from the oven and bubbling in cream – layered between fried potato and sliced onion and spiced with nutmeg. Weaving through Lisbon’s steep and cobbled streets, it wouldn’t take long before you found someone serving it as a light and crispy fritter, dusted with a little coarse salt and dished up with a pot of pungent aioli. You could buy it shaped as mouth-sized fried potato dumplings pastéis style, flavoured with parsley and garlic, for a walk along the banks of Porto’s Douro River. You might even come across it as part of a hearty southern bread soup, topped with coriander and a poached egg.
That’s because bacalhau – or salt cod – which sits at the heart of all these dishes, runs deep through Portugal’s culinary identity, with the country consuming 20% of the world’s supply. In fact, so central to Portuguese hearts (and stomachs) is this ingredient, that the saying goes “there are 365 ways to prepare salted cod, one for each day of the year”.
But for a fish that is found only in the icy depths of the North Atlantic Ocean – far from Portugal’s shores – the country’s love affair with salt cod is a puzzling one. How exactly did it end up on Portuguese plates? The answer is wrapped up in more than 500 years of intriguing history.
Take a trip today to most restaurants, markets and cafés across the country and you’ll find salt cod in one form or another. It even plays a starring role at hip Lisbon restaurant Alma, which earned its first Michelin star within nine months of opening and added a second star soon after.

“It’s funny, sometimes Michelin star chefs or high-end cuisine chefs don’t value salted cod because they don’t see it [fitting] within this type of gastronomy,” said Alma executive chef and owner Henrique Sá Pessoa, of the typically humble comfort food. “But I always have and always will have cod on my menus.”
He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.
Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.
“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”
The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.
“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.
He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.
Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.

“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”
The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.
“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.
Pessoa’s bacalhau
dish is just one of the latest evolutions of a long culinary legacy, one that’s wrapped up in centuries of history little-known to those outside the country. It started towards the end of the 14th Century, when the Portuguese navy found that the dried and salted fish could be stored for years in holds, making it the perfect food for long ocean voyages.
In the mid-1500s, during Portugal’s maritime explorations and hunt to find the coast of India, they stumbled across waters rich with cod around Canada and Greenland; a major discovery that kickstarted Portuguese cod fishing. But by the 16th Century, Portuguese fishermen were pushed out by the French and English.
In the centuries that followed, Portugal became heavily dependent on England as the main exporter of cod, and by the 1800s, the ingredient was something enjoyed only by the aristocracy. However, cod’s popularity expanded in the 20th Century during the reign of Portuguese dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who wanted to bring it back home. His “cod campaign”, launched in 1934, looked to reignite Portugal’s fishing (and drying) industry and instate cod as a national symbol. Thousands of Portuguese fishermen were sent to Canada and Greenland to fish for cod, with some bringing back up to 900 tonnes per boat.
But this was long, gruelling and often dangerous work, and many men never made it back home to their families. It continued even during World War Two when one Portuguese lugger – the Maria da Glória – was bombed as it headed towards the fishing banks on the west coast of Greenland, killing 36 people on board. These conditions still plague the industry today, with global fatality rates thought to top 24,000 a year, according to the Seafarers Rights International.
It’s this complex history that makes Portugal’s love for cod so deep-rooted, and it’s why Portuguese food expert and chef Leandro Carreira dedicated more than 50 recipes to the product in his new book Portugal, The Cookbook. In total, it features more than 550 traditional recipes from across the country, including a raw salt cod salad, which mixes bacalhau together with barbecued red bell peppers, onions, garlic and parsley.
“If I didn’t include [salt cod], I would have been in a lot of trouble,” said Carreira. “Cod has become so embedded in our culture over the centuries, since the trade of salt began so it was so hard to choose which recipes would feature in the book.”
That love of salt cod still rings true today. “I know people who have eaten cod for more than 30 years every day,” Carreira said. “My grandmother used to eat the same cod dish – cod with boiled potatoes, raw onion, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and parsley – every single day for lunch. Even I, and everyone I know, had cod at least twice a week.

“Cod is an incredibly flexible product. You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water. So, if you combine this with its affordability and its accessibility, you can see why [it’s popular].”
You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water.
Portugal today imports around 70% of its cod from Norway; the Norwegian Seafood Council describes Portugal as “by far the biggest market for Norwegian cod”. They add that out of the 100,000 tonnes Norway exports annually to Portugal, 95% is salted.
In Norway’s remote and icy fishing island of Røst, they even have a name reserved for the heaviest of cod catches: “Portuguese cod,” said Pessoa, who, as a former ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council, visited the island several times. “They know Portugal will pay the best price for that cod.”
This is echoed by Rita Karlsen, chief executive of Norway’s Brødrene Karlsen, which has been exporting salted and dried cod to Portugal since the company’s beginning in 1932. “Portugal is very important [to Norwegian cod exporters]; it’s the most important country that we sell to,” she said. “We couldn’t have survived without Portugal.”
This influence has spread far and wide to countries like Brazil, which imported 8.6 tonnes of salt cod during the Easter period alone in 2019, or Angola, which imported 308 tonnes of salt cod from Norway in 2012, according to the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod, Lisbon’s museum dedicated to the fish. In Italy, they even hold a salt cod festival, Festa del Bacala, every year near Venice, and in the Tuscan region they favour classics such as baccalà alla livornese, which marries salt cod with a rich, garlicky tomato sauce.
For other chefs in Portugal, salt cod bridges the past and present. Like Marlene Vieira, MasterChef Portugal judge, head chef of two Lisbon restaurants and the only female face within the chef’s wing of Lisbon’s Time Out Market, where her salt cod pataniscas (fritters) have won her accolades.
She explained how the fritter recipe was passed down from her grandmother, who came from a poor background. This meant she typically used the cheaper tail cuts of the fish in the batter, which had less moisture and resulted in a crispier finish “like tempura” – an excellent companion to the roasted red pepper and garlic mayonnaise that Vieira now serves with it.
As a child, she remembers helping her grandmother in the kitchen “to do the things she wouldn’t like to do”, like peeling onions, garlic and of course carefully picking out any bones left in the salt cod.
Today, while nodding to tradition, Vieira is keen to further promote the fish along with seafood local to Portugal – and her high-end restaurant Marlene focuses on just that. She even cooks it at home for her daughter, who, she said, “loves, loves, loves cod” – proof perhaps that despite the lengths the country has to go to secure this North Atlantic fish, the passion for it will continue to flow through Portuguese veins for generations to come.
–BBC
Life style
Meet the author rewriting the rules of children’s fiction
Representation matters:
By Ifham Nizam
“There are no books written about pirates with prosthetic limbs, sporting blades, or racing wheelchairs—that is, until now,” says award-winning international children’s author Jann Weeratunga, whose Polly’s Piralympics series is challenging conventional ideas about who gets to be the hero in children’s literature.
For Weeratunga, representation is not simply about placing a disabled character somewhere in a story. It is about putting that character at the centre—leading, competing, winning, making friends, overcoming challenges and, most importantly, having adventures on their own terms.
Her books are designed not merely to be read, but to be experienced. Through interactive pages, children can colour, draw, write and respond to the stories, leaving something of themselves behind as they explore themes, ranging from disability and bullying to friendship, resilience and family.
At the heart of her growing literary brand is Polly’s Piralympics, a series in which disability is not presented as a limitation, but as part of a character’s identity and adventure.
The inspiration came from an unexpected moment during the closing speech of the 2012 London Paralympic Games by Sir Philip Craven. He recalled a young boy looking at an illustration of a pirate with an eye patch, a hook, a parrot and a wooden leg.
When his mother asked who the figure was, the boy replied that because the man had only one leg, “he must be an Olympian.”
The story moved Weeratunga deeply.
That moment of innocent perception—where disability was associated with sporting achievement rather than limitation—sparked the idea of Polly and her extraordinary Piralympic world.
In the series, Polly, a bird-napped African parrot, finds herself bullied in a Scottish pet shop before being rescued by Captain Hake. Their shared one-eyed view of the world becomes the beginning of an unusual friendship. Captain Hake teaches Polly the ways of a pirate, while Polly creates the Fellowship of Pirates and the Pirates Paralympics.
Soon, pirates from around the world are competing in events ranging from three-legged races and climb-the-rigging gymnastics to walk-the-plank diving and even a MasterChef competition.
It is an imaginative world, but behind the humour and adventure lies a serious message about inclusion and leadership.
Weeratunga recalls one school visit that brought home to her exactly why the books mattered.
A student with a prosthetic leg embraced her and said: “Thank you for writing these books for me, Auntie.”
The words left her overwhelmed.
“That was why I had written these books,” Weeratunga reflects.
Her journey towards becoming an author, however, began long before Polly sailed into the world of children’s fiction.
Earlier in her life, Weeratunga was a Scout Leader in the UK, where volunteering became a way of life. She subsequently spent a decade in Sri Lanka, falling in love not only with a Sri Lankan, but with the country itself.
After her husband died just four years into their marriage, she joined five other women to establish a small school in Senarathwela to teach English to those who wanted to learn. Many of her pupils, subsequently, found employment at the newly opened Victoria Golf Course.
When she returned to Sri Lanka in 2025 and revisited the village and golf course, she found a landscape transformed by new roads, homes, shops and businesses. But the people she had taught remained.
“The village is unrecognisable, with new roads, homes, shops and businesses, but my dear pupils were still there as Caddies, Caddy Master and Golf Pro. I was so proud of them,” she says.
Her connection with Sri Lanka deepened further during one of the country’s darkest moments.
On Boxing Day 2005, while holidaying in the UK with her recently widowed mother, Weeratunga was woken by the words: “Something terrible has happened in Sri Lanka.”
She rushed to the television and witnessed the devastating aftermath of the Indian Ocean tsunami.
That very day, she established a non-profit organisation to raise funds and take relief to Sri Lanka. With support from local McDonald’s franchises, schools in Ferndown, the Mayor of Ferndown, freight companies and her friend Mr Wijekoon, a local Grama Niladhari, she helped rebuild lives in Arugam Bay.
The experience was hands-on and deeply personal. A family’s home had been swept away, and days were spent persuading surfers to help construct a future for her adopted family.
A Montessori was established on the hill, within the Buddhist temple grounds, while evenings were spent crafting, building and working with a small but effective generator.
Meals of rice and curry, prepared by the family’s sisters, using provisions donated from Senarathwela, brought the long days to a close.
When Weeratunga returned to the family, in 2025, she was able to see how far they had come.
Today, living in South Africa, she continues to draw inspiration from the landscape around her.
“Travelling—it leaves you speechless and then turns you into a storyteller,” she says, echoing the famous words attributed to Ibn Battuta.
And storytelling has become her way of opening conversations with a new generation.
While Polly’s Piralympics remains the flagship of her children’s publishing brand, Weeratunga’s wider collection explores a range of issues that matter to children and parents.
Terry and the Bully gives children practical and empowering ways to stand up for themselves, transforming a difficult subject into a story through which young readers can explore courage and self-confidence.
In Evie Visiting Grandma, children encounter the sensitive experience of visiting a loved one who now lives in a residential home. Rather than avoiding a potentially difficult subject, the story gently opens the door to conversations about ageing, family and change.
Terry the Toucane explores another universal childhood experience—the challenge and beauty of being different. Its central message is simple: being different should never prevent us from developing deep and lasting friendships.
Then there is Captain Bluebird, a resilient and entertaining adventure exploring what happens when Captain Bluebird receives a brand-new ship.
Across the collection, Weeratunga combines entertainment with meaningful life lessons, while her interactive approach gives children an opportunity to become participants rather than passive readers.
They can colour illustrations, draw pictures and respond to pages, making each reading experience personal.
That approach also gives the books an added value for parents and educators. They can become conversation starters—helping adults discuss subjects that children may find difficult to raise directly.
For Weeratunga, this is part of the larger purpose of her work.
Her books seek to fill a gap in children’s literature where diverse characters are not simply included for the sake of inclusion, but are given agency, personality and leadership.
In Polly’s Piralympics, disabled characters are not watching from the sidelines. They are the stars.
They lead.
They compete.
They win.
They champion their own adventures.
And that, ultimately, is the brand Weeratunga is building: children’s stories in which every child can find a place, a voice and perhaps even a little courage to become the hero of their own story.
Representation matters.
For young readers in Sri Lanka, Weeratunga’s books are now available through Sarasavi Bookshop, Vijitha Yapa Bookshop, M. D. Gunasena and Expo Graphics, Battaramulla.
Life style
An evening where hearts sang as one
By Zanita Careem
Music, laughter and a generous spirit filled Raflfles Hotel Colombo as Heart to Heart sing along brought together a vibrant gathering for an evening of melody, friendship and giving. The elegant ballroom reverberated with familiar lyrics as guests joined in, sang along and simply let their hair down. Adding to the infections atmosphere was the talented Rajiv and Clan, whose lively performance kept the energy soaring and had the gathering singing to some much loved favourites.
Keeping the evening moving with plenty of wit and warmth was the compere Mirzab Sherifdeen who ensured there was never a dull moment between the music, laughter and spontaneous sing-along moments, Guests were also treated to prizes galore adding an extra element of excitement to an already festive evening. There was cheers as winners stepped forward to collect their prizes, while friends and families aplauded and celebrated every winning moment.
Yet beneath all the sparkle was the meaningful purpose of Heart to Heart Trust Fund, founded by Dr. Rajitha Y de Silva and Dr. Ruwan Ekanayake, bringing people together in support of a cause built on compassion and care.
The dedications and the volunteering was evident throughout the evening with their commitment adding a special warmth to this special event.
Adding to the evening’s indulgence was a sumptous spread of cuisine by the Raffles, Hotel with an enticing selectiom that kept guests happily returning for more. From savoury favourites to tempting desserts, the food complemented the festive mood perfectly.
As the final song faded and the evening drew to a close, there was a quiet sense of gratitude. Behind the music, laughter, prizs and beautiful memories was a cause built as compassion, a cause that has continued to touch lives through the dedication of Dr. Rajitha de Silva and everyone who has stood beside him in the journey of Heart to Heart.
And as guests left Raffles Hotel with the last melodies still lingering in the air the most beautiful note of the evening remained – the sound of hearts earning for hearts. At the very heart of Hearts to Heart is Dr. Rajitha whose compassion has become the soul of the initiative. Dr. Rajitha’s work reminds us that medicine is not only about repairing what is broken. It is about giving people the courage to believe in tomorrow. And perhaps that is the greatest gift he offers. This spirit was beautifully reflected throughout the evening.It was a beautiful evening of music, friendship and generosity, with every contribution going towards a worthy cause- keeping alive a legacy built one one simple but powerful belief that every heart deserves a chance to beat on.
- Ramzi Rahaman with friends and family enjoying an evening of music
- Sarath Wimalaratne, Chandra and Bunny Bohoron
- Brigadier Bohoron
- Shanti Fernando shares a warm and happy moment with volunteers, adding to the camaraderie and cheerful spirit
- Shahana, Sherin and Shahareen
- Lakshmie with her graceful moves
- Onitha Gurugalle with Arujana Ranasinghe
- Cardiologist and Senior Consultant Dr. Ruwan Ekanayake
- Dr. Rajitha Y de Silva and Dr. Arunie
- Former Cricketer with spouse
- A guest takes centre stage
Life style
Taste of Ceylon leaves a lasting flavour
Taste of Ceylon opened its doors at Beira Kitchen, Courtyard by Marriott Colombo, on September 3rd; a festival of Southern, Central, Uva and Northern regional food, brought together on one table.
Four Regions, One Unforgettable Table
Each night, guests moved between four distinct culinary worlds. From the South came the deep, coconut-rich flavours of malu abulthiyal and Negombo pork curry with pineapple, alongside a lively fish polla roti action station. The Central province brought Kandalama lake fish, black octopus curry and carrot kalupol; dishes rooted in the region’s lakes and forests. Uva’s table leaned rustic and warming, with village chicken stew, prawn curry with murunga, and a coconut pittu drawing steady queues. And from the North came bold, unmistakable flavours of Jaffna crab curry, Jaffna mutton curry, and a dosai action station that quickly became one of the evening’s most talked-about corners.
Layered around the four regional stations was a spread that told its own story of Sri Lankan hospitality, from belimal herbal welcome drinks and a bread corner stretching from curry leaves rolls to kurakkan viyana rolls, to a dessert corner where watalappan, wood-apple coconut wandu and king coconut jelly sat alongside a full spread of traditional Sri Lankan sweets like kokis, athirasa and aluwa.
What the guests had to say
The feedback on opening night carried a common thread: guests were struck by just how different each region’s food tasted, side by side, on the same table. What could easily have blurred into “just Sri Lankan food” instead came through as four distinct culinary identities; the fire of the North, the coastal warmth of the South, the earthiness of the Central hills, and the rustic comfort of Uva, each unmistakably its own.
A Word from the team
Reflecting on the festival, the team at Courtyard by Marriott Colombo shared that Taste of Ceylon was designed from the start to be more than a menu. It was meant to be an experience guests could travel through, one region at a time, without leaving Beira Kitchen. Judging by the response over the four nights, that’s exactly how it landed.
There were many rave reviews and as the Taste of Ceylon experience at Beira Lake drew to a close, the flavours, aromas and vibrant spirit of Sri Lanka lingered on.
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