Life style

A fish that sparked a national obsession

Published

3 years ago

2023/01/29

Bacalhau (salt cod) is a deep part of Portugal’s culinary identity. But the fish is found far from the country’s shores, so how did this love affair come to be and continue today?

On a cold winter’s evening in Portugal, it might come to your table com natas – fresh from the oven and bubbling in cream – layered between fried potato and sliced onion and spiced with nutmeg. Weaving through Lisbon’s steep and cobbled streets, it wouldn’t take long before you found someone serving it as a light and crispy fritter, dusted with a little coarse salt and dished up with a pot of pungent aioli. You could buy it shaped as mouth-sized fried potato dumplings pastéis style, flavoured with parsley and garlic, for a walk along the banks of Porto’s Douro River. You might even come across it as part of a hearty southern bread soup, topped with coriander and a poached egg.

That’s because bacalhau – or salt cod – which sits at the heart of all these dishes, runs deep through Portugal’s culinary identity, with the country consuming 20% of the world’s supply. In fact, so central to Portuguese hearts (and stomachs) is this ingredient, that the saying goes “there are 365 ways to prepare salted cod, one for each day of the year”.

But for a fish that is found only in the icy depths of the North Atlantic Ocean – far from Portugal’s shores – the country’s love affair with salt cod is a puzzling one. How exactly did it end up on Portuguese plates? The answer is wrapped up in more than 500 years of intriguing history.

Take a trip today to most restaurants, markets and cafés across the country and you’ll find salt cod in one form or another. It even plays a starring role at hip Lisbon restaurant Alma, which earned its first Michelin star within nine months of opening and added a second star soon after.

“It’s funny, sometimes Michelin star chefs or high-end cuisine chefs don’t value salted cod because they don’t see it [fitting] within this type of gastronomy,” said Alma executive chef and owner Henrique Sá Pessoa, of the typically humble comfort food. “But I always have and always will have cod on my menus.”

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Case in point: his “most Instagrammable” creation, Cobblestreet Cod, named for its likeness to the centuries-old streets outside Alma’s front door in the historical Chiado district. It’s a modern twist on an old peasant dish and one of the country’s most beloved salt cod recipes – bacalhau à bras – where typically shredded salt cod, fried matchstick potatoes and onions are all bound together with scrambled egg and garnished with black olives.

“I knew I couldn’t call it bacalhau à bras because the Portuguese are quite traditional, and people sometimes get offended when you play around with classics,” he explained. “I wanted to get inspired by this dish but elevate it presentation-wise, texture-wise and detail-wise into something more delicate and elaborate.”

The outcome is far removed from the version you’d find on family dinner tables. A creamy mixture of salt cod, fried potato, egg and onion arrives at the table hidden under a veil of wafer-thin slices of cod that have been coated in a black olive tapenade to create a cobbled visual. A final surprise comes when you break into the cobbled dome and spilt a confit egg yolk that has been resting in the middle of the salted cod mixture.

“I wanted to dislocate all these elements of the dish and try and make it as perfect as possible. When we launched it in the restaurant, it was an instant success. It was especially popular on social media because visually it is quite striking,” said Pessoa.

He assures visitors that a salt cod creation will also feature on the menu of his new restaurant, JOIA, which will open in London later this year. But though bacalhau is a traditional and well-explored ingredient for many natives across the country, Pessoa is still finding ways to push Portugal’s love for it into new territory.

Pessoa’s bacalhau

dish is just one of the latest evolutions of a long culinary legacy, one that’s wrapped up in centuries of history little-known to those outside the country. It started towards the end of the 14th Century, when the Portuguese navy found that the dried and salted fish could be stored for years in holds, making it the perfect food for long ocean voyages.

In the mid-1500s, during Portugal’s maritime explorations and hunt to find the coast of India, they stumbled across waters rich with cod around Canada and Greenland; a major discovery that kickstarted Portuguese cod fishing. But by the 16th Century, Portuguese fishermen were pushed out by the French and English.

In the centuries that followed, Portugal became heavily dependent on England as the main exporter of cod, and by the 1800s, the ingredient was something enjoyed only by the aristocracy. However, cod’s popularity expanded in the 20th Century during the reign of Portuguese dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who wanted to bring it back home. His “cod campaign”, launched in 1934, looked to reignite Portugal’s fishing (and drying) industry and instate cod as a national symbol. Thousands of Portuguese fishermen were sent to Canada and Greenland to fish for cod, with some bringing back up to 900 tonnes per boat.

But this was long, gruelling and often dangerous work, and many men never made it back home to their families. It continued even during World War Two when one Portuguese lugger – the Maria da Glória – was bombed as it headed towards the fishing banks on the west coast of Greenland, killing 36 people on board. These conditions still plague the industry today, with global fatality rates thought to top 24,000 a year, according to the Seafarers Rights International.

It’s this complex history that makes Portugal’s love for cod so deep-rooted, and it’s why Portuguese food expert and chef Leandro Carreira dedicated more than 50 recipes to the product in his new book Portugal, The Cookbook. In total, it features more than 550 traditional recipes from across the country, including a raw salt cod salad, which mixes bacalhau together with barbecued red bell peppers, onions, garlic and parsley.

“If I didn’t include [salt cod], I would have been in a lot of trouble,” said Carreira. “Cod has become so embedded in our culture over the centuries, since the trade of salt began so it was so hard to choose which recipes would feature in the book.”

That love of salt cod still rings true today. “I know people who have eaten cod for more than 30 years every day,” Carreira said. “My grandmother used to eat the same cod dish – cod with boiled potatoes, raw onion, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and parsley – every single day for lunch. Even I, and everyone I know, had cod at least twice a week.

“Cod is an incredibly flexible product. You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water. So, if you combine this with its affordability and its accessibility, you can see why [it’s popular].”

You can grill it, steam it, bake it, deep fry, you can make a cake with it, have it raw after soaking it in water.

Portugal today imports around 70% of its cod from Norway; the Norwegian Seafood Council describes Portugal as “by far the biggest market for Norwegian cod”. They add that out of the 100,000 tonnes Norway exports annually to Portugal, 95% is salted.

In Norway’s remote and icy fishing island of Røst, they even have a name reserved for the heaviest of cod catches: “Portuguese cod,” said Pessoa, who, as a former ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council, visited the island several times. “They know Portugal will pay the best price for that cod.”

This is echoed by Rita Karlsen, chief executive of Norway’s Brødrene Karlsen, which has been exporting salted and dried cod to Portugal since the company’s beginning in 1932. “Portugal is very important [to Norwegian cod exporters]; it’s the most important country that we sell to,” she said. “We couldn’t have survived without Portugal.”

This influence has spread far and wide to countries like Brazil, which imported 8.6 tonnes of salt cod during the Easter period alone in 2019, or Angola, which imported 308 tonnes of salt cod from Norway in 2012, according to the Interpretative Center of the History of Cod, Lisbon’s museum dedicated to the fish. In Italy, they even hold a salt cod festival, Festa del Bacala, every year near Venice, and in the Tuscan region they favour classics such as baccalà alla livornese, which marries salt cod with a rich, garlicky tomato sauce.

For other chefs in Portugal, salt cod bridges the past and present. Like Marlene Vieira, MasterChef Portugal judge, head chef of two Lisbon restaurants and the only female face within the chef’s wing of Lisbon’s Time Out Market, where her salt cod pataniscas (fritters) have won her accolades.

She explained how the fritter recipe was passed down from her grandmother, who came from a poor background. This meant she typically used the cheaper tail cuts of the fish in the batter, which had less moisture and resulted in a crispier finish “like tempura” – an excellent companion to the roasted red pepper and garlic mayonnaise that Vieira now serves with it.

As a child, she remembers helping her grandmother in the kitchen “to do the things she wouldn’t like to do”, like peeling onions, garlic and of course carefully picking out any bones left in the salt cod.

Today, while nodding to tradition, Vieira is keen to further promote the fish along with seafood local to Portugal – and her high-end restaurant Marlene focuses on just that. She even cooks it at home for her daughter, who, she said, “loves, loves, loves cod” – proof perhaps that despite the lengths the country has to go to secure this North Atlantic fish, the passion for it will continue to flow through Portuguese veins for generations to come.

–BBC

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Life style

A nation comes together: Business, compassion and public service unite to protect Sri Lankan women from cervical cancer

Published

3 days ago

2026/05/3

Thilina Walpola

Distinguished guests covering a wide spectrum of society

In an emotionally charged and inspiring gathering that brought together business leaders, healthcare professionals, philanthropists and community organisations, Sri Lanka, this week, reaffirmed its determination to defeat one of the country’s most preventable yet devastating diseases—cervical cancer.

The event was more than a formal announcement of financial assistance. It was a story of legacy, compassion, partnership and hope. It was also a reminder that when private enterprise, government institutions and civic organisations stand together with a shared purpose, lives can be saved and futures protected.

At the centre of the initiative was a renewed commitment by Dilmah and the Fernando family to continue funding cervical cancer screening programmes, in partnership with the Ministry of Health and Rotary.

The programme, which has already helped thousands of women through early detection, will receive a further Rs. 50 million this year, enabling 20,160 additional screenings.

This follows an earlier Rs. 75 million commitment made in January 2024 under a Memorandum of Understanding signed between Dilmah, Rotary and the Ministry of Health.

A Son Honours a Father’s Vision

Delivering one of the most moving speeches of the event, Dilmah Chairman/CEO Dilhan C. Fernando reflected on the values of his late father, Merrill J. Fernando, founder of Dilmah, whose philosophy continues to guide the company.

Fernando said his father began his journey in 1950 not merely to create a successful tea business, but to build a company that would improve lives and protect nature.

“My father started on a mission to make the world a better tea,” Fernando said. “Now, better tea is always welcome because it implies good taste, but his vision was quite different. It was about tea that would have an impact on the lives of people and on natural ecosystems.”

He said he and his brother Malik were blessed to steward a business that values kindness to people and the environment as much as profit.

“Businesses do not exist to make profit. Businesses exist to create value,” he said. “Value begins with people and livelihoods. It continues through nature, which is an inextricable part of welfare. And if you get those two right, then you have the right to secure economic value.”

Fernando said learning that hundreds of Sri Lankan women were dying annually from cervical cancer—an entirely preventable disease—was deeply disturbing.

“It was something that was really quite abhorrent to us,” he said. “An entirely preventable form of cancer should not be taking so many lives.”

He said the contribution was not about publicity or recognition.

“We announce this not to boast, but in appreciation of all those who made it possible, particularly my father, because that is how it is possible for us to make this assistance.”

Thousands of Lives Already Touched

Fernando said the true value of the investment could not be measured in rupees alone.

“That value may seem like a big number, but it is insignificant when you consider that it has saved thousands of women from the scourge of cancer and in many cases helped them avoid late-stage disease.”

He praised Sri Lanka’s healthcare system for maintaining an admirable record, despite national hardships.

Dilhan C Fernando

“Whatever anyone may say about systems or governance, the fact is Sri Lanka’s healthcare system has an enviable track record,” he said.

Rotary’s Promise of Early Detection

Representing the Rotary Club of Colombo, former Rotary International President K.R. Ravindran delivered a powerful message on the life-saving power of partnerships.

“This is not a discussion. This is a promise of early detection,” Ravindran said. “Cancer, especially cervical cancer, does not arrive with a bell ringing or a warning. It whispers, and so often by the time it is heard, it is too late.”

He spoke emotionally of the grief caused by delayed diagnosis.

“For millions of women, that whisper is a devastating reality. Families left grieving—that is the reality.”

Ravindran recalled how Rotary had earlier established a stand-alone early detection centre offering free screening for breast, cervical and oral cancers. Through those efforts, more than 120,000 women had access to screening.

“During that journey, we learned something profound,” he said. “Early detection is not just saving lives. It transforms fear into hope, into possibility.”

That experience led Rotary to intensify efforts against cervical cancer, supported by overseas partners who introduced expertise and advanced screening technology.

A Crisis That Nearly Stopped Progress

Ravindran revealed that Sri Lanka’s financial crisis nearly derailed the programme when funds for HPV testing kits became unavailable.

“Without the money, the whole thing would have gone awry,” he said.

It was then, he said, that Dilmah stepped in.

“They did something far greater than simply giving money. They made scale possible. They made continuation possible. They made impact possible.”

He paid tribute to Merrill J. Fernando’s values.

“He believed business was a matter of human service. It was not just about making money. He did not just speak it. He lived it.”

He added that Dilhan Fernando had strengthened that legacy through direct leadership and compassion.

Sri Lanka Can Lead the World

Ravindran said Sri Lanka has every reason to believe it can become one of the first countries in the world to eliminate cervical cancer by 2030.

He cited the country’s literacy, school vaccination programmes, far-reaching public health system and highly respected midwife service.

“One thing we have to be proud of is our public health service,” he said. “And we have an excellent midwife system. If you involve the midwives, you are effectively empowering the community.”

He concluded with a message of hope.

“I think this country can become one of the first countries to be rid of this disease. Perhaps one day no woman in Sri Lanka will ever again hear the whisper of cervical cancer.”

Science, Prevention and Public Health

Consultant Community Physician Dr. Nadija Herath, of the Family Health Bureau, explained that cervical cancer is caused mainly by persistent infection with the Human Papillomavirus (HPV), which can take years to develop into cancer, if left untreated.

She said this makes screening especially important because pre-cancerous changes can be detected and reversed.

“The most important thing about this cancer is that it is preventable,” she said. “If identified early, women can be fully cured and live normal lives.”

Sri Lanka’s Well Woman Clinic programme, introduced in 1996, currently focuses on women aged 35 and 45.

Dr. Herath said the country is now expanding the use of HPV DNA testing, which offers much higher sensitivity than traditional methods.

She added that outreach clinics in factories and underserved communities would be strengthened, ensuring women can access services close to where they live and work.

Cancer Society Calls for Social Change

President of the Sri Lanka Cancer Society, Anoja Karunaratne, said awareness and stigma remain serious barriers.

“We need to take this message beyond hospitals and clinics—into schools, workplaces, religious institutions and community groups,” she said.

She stressed that women should view screening as a normal and responsible part of healthcare.

“Women must not fear screening. They must see it as routine care that can save their lives.”

A Partnership with Purpose

Throughout the event, one theme stood above all others—the power of unity.

Government institutions brought infrastructure and expertise. Rotary brought leadership and international support. The private sector brought resources and purpose. Civil society brought compassion and outreach.

Ravindran summed it up simply:

“This is not just institutions coming together. It is values coming together.”

“When governments, civil society, global networks and responsible businesses all come together, we do more than fight disease—we change destiny.”

Hope for Every Woman

As Sri Lanka moves toward the World Health Organisation goal of eliminating cervical cancer as a public health threat by 2030, the gathering offered more than policy announcements. It offered confidence that progress is possible.

It reminded the nation that some of the greatest victories are won not in boardrooms or conference halls, but in clinics where disease is detected early, in families spared grief, and in women given the chance to live healthy, full lives.

And in that shared effort, Sri Lanka may yet become a global example of what compassion, courage and collaboration can achieve.

By Ifham Nizam

Life style

Rheumatoid Arthritis doesn’t stop at your joints; And neither should your treatment

Published

3 days ago

2026/05/3

Thilina Walpola

Dr. Aruna Caldera

By Dr. Aruna Caldera, Consultant Rheumatologist MBBS, MD, MRCP (UK), MRCP (Rheumatology)

The word arthritis comes from ancient Greek. “Arthron” means joints; “itis” means inflammation; so, arthritis means inflammation of joints. Arthritis is one of the commonest disease categories which effect man. Some forms of arthritis may not even require any form of specific treatment, whereas some may even kill you.

Among long-term arthritis conditions, the most serious is rheumatoid arthritis. This disease occurs due to genetic variations that cause the immune system to malfunction and produce antibodies against the joints, leading to joint damage. We call this process, auto immunity; in simple words, your immune system which is supposed to protect you, starts to work against you.

If proper treatment is not started on time, the progression of the disease will be extremely difficult. Without proper treatment, it can make life miserable and may even lead to premature death.

Rheumatoid arthritis is a chronic, systemic inflammatory disease. Joint involvement is only one part of it. In simple terms arthritis is not limited to the joints. This is why relying only on ointments or topical treatments can lead to extra-articular (other organ) damage some of which could be catastrophic and lead to premature death.

If untreated, inflammation damages the joints—causing deformities, cartilage loss, and involvement of more joints over time. Complications usually appear after 10–15 years. Those who don’t understand, or refuse to believe this, often rely on short-term fixes and, unfortunately, will suffer later.

Eventually, joint deformities can become so severe that a person may not be able to walk without aid, button clothes, dress themselves, go to the toilet independently, open a bottle, or even open a door.

There are several types of rheumatoid arthritis:

Classical rheumatoid arthritis:

Affects small joints (fingers, wrists) and large joints (elbows, ankles, knees). Symptoms include morning stiffness, joint pain, swelling, weak grip, and fatigue.

Palindromic rheumatism

: Sudden joint pain (and swelling) that disappears within hours or days. Many of these patients may later develop classical rheumatoid arthritis. However, treatment can reduce this risk of progression to classical type. Medication may be needed even when symptoms are absent.

Monoarticular rheumatoid arthritis:

Affects a single joint. It is often mistaken for other conditions like gouty arthritis or osteoarthritis. Without proper treatment, it can destroy the joint and later progress to classical rheumatoid arthritis. Commonly affects larger joints, like knees, ankles, hips, and shoulders.

Polymyalgic onset (proximal) rheumatoid arthritis:

Seen in older individuals and even could be missed by clinicians. Patients usually complain of stiffness in both shoulders rather than joint pain or swelling.

Most patients experience morning stiffness (difficulty moving joints after waking) and joint “gelling” (stiffness after rest). Stiffness can last from minutes to hours and is caused by inflammatory substances accumulating in joints during sleep and rest.

Other symptoms may include whole-body pain, fatigue, weight loss, mild fever, depression, fibromyalgia (generalised wide spread pains)

Rheumatoid arthritis affects the whole body. The effects on other organ systems are identified as” extraarticular manifestations”. Most organs can get involved in poorly controlled disease. Some of the common manifestations include,

Skin vasculitis rashes and skin nodules

Lung disease (interstitial lung disease)

Heart disease (ischemic heart disease)

Osteoporosis

Eye problems which can even cause blindness (uveitis, scleritis)

Nerve disorders (polyneuropathy, mononeuritis)

Dry mouth (Sjogren’s syndrome)

About 40% of patients may develop such complications. The only way to reduce them is timely treatment.

In addition to joint swelling, the whole hand may swell like wearing a boxing glove. Swelling in the wrist can compress the median nerve, causing carpal tunnel syndrome (numbness in fingers). Surgery should not be rushed—arthritis must be treated first.

The disease can even affect the upper spine (neck joints). Neck pain along with other joint pain should not be ignored. In simple terms, rheumatoid arthritis can affect almost any joint except most parts of the spine.

No blood test is required to suspect or even diagnose rheumatoid arthritis. In some patients the rheumatoid factor antibody test will never be positive (seronegative rheumatoid arthritis). Waiting for lab confirmation before starting treatment is an unwarranted delay.

Some tests may show abnormalities:

Rheumatoid factor antibodies, Anti-CCP antibodies, ANA may be positive

ESR and CRP may be elevated

Haemoglobin may be low (anaemia of chronic disease)

Platelets may be high

Blood tests are more useful for monitoring treatment and medication safety rather than initial diagnosis. One important fact we must realise is the titre of the antibody test positivity has no correlation to disease activity and we cannot use the antibody titres to evaluate the response to treatment.

There are treatments that can even bring the disease into remission in no time at all. However, patients who delay treatment, take insufficient doses of medicines, stop medication early, follow inconsistent treatment, or rely on unscientific treatment methods are unlikely to achieve this.

Proper treatment involves starting with stronger medications and gradually reducing it as the disease improves. Simply controlling symptoms, without addressing the disease progression, is not enough; that is why using pain killers and prednisolone only cannot prevent extraarticular manifestations.

The first goal is on-drug remission. After that, patients should continue medication for more than 12 months without symptoms before gradually tapering. Stopping/tapering medications too early often causes relapse, which is a major reason why many patients fail to recover. Some patients may relapse even after stopping medication, but modern treatments allow long-term control without harm and sustained, drug-free remission in other patients. Most novel therapies are available in Sri Lanka as well.

The medications used are called DMARDs (Disease-Modifying Anti-Rheumatic Drugs). These do not just control symptoms—they change the course of the disease. Most patients respond to conventional DMARDs, but if not, biologic or targeted synthetic DMARDs should be started early—not after joint damage occurs. These treatments are available in Sri Lanka. Without consulting rheumatologist, patients may not receive these advanced forms of novel treatments.

Having rheumatoid arthritis is like being trapped in a room with a venomous snake. As long as you stay alert, you can avoid harm—but if you ignore it, it will strike. The disease must be treated at any cost. The choice is yours. With proper treatment initiated early, you can live a normal life. Ignoring the disease will not make it go away. Misinformation by people who aren’t aware of the severity of the disease and medications used often causes patients to avoid ideal treatment, leading to worse outcomes.

There is no point worrying after diagnosis; see a specialist early and seek treatment. You can live a normal life. Even pregnant or breastfeeding mothers can be treated safely without harming the baby. The precious time you waste starting a DMARD will definitely impact the final outcome.

Life style

Avurudu spirit comes alive

Published

3 days ago

2026/05/3

Thilina Walpola

Niroshan, Priyan and host

The Sinhala and Tamil New Year stands as one of Sri Lanka’s most significant cultural observances, marking not only the transition of time but also a collective moment of renewal, reflection and togetherness. The Sinhala and Tamil New Year is deeply rooted in age old customs that continue to shape both domestic life and wider social culture across the island. Priyanthi Fernando brought the spirit of Sinhala and Tamil New Year to life, hosting a thoughtfully curated Avurudu celebrations that brought together elegance, culture and the timeless spirit of togetherness. The Sinhala and Tamil New Year festivities were held at Colombo City Centre, followed by a strong service of cultural authenticity. The event unfolded with traditional observances carried out in glamour and style. The atmosphere was warm, yet distinctly elegant, with carefully curated details. Priyanthi embraced tradition in a striking reddai hatta, even the invited guests embraced the occasion in equally colourful ensembles that added a rich, cultural vibrancy.

The food presentation added to the charm of the evening, with a beautifully arranged spread of Avurudu delicacies.

The gathering blended festive decor with familiar Avurudu touches, games sweet meat spreads. and a musical backdrop inspired by local rhythms. Both men and women opted for the national attire, while traditional sweets, such as kavum, kokis, aluwa and mung kevum, were among the food highlights, alongside other savories and contemporary bites.

Adding to the celebrating tone were the traditional Avurudu games which brought moments of laughter and friendly competition. As the Avudu Kumari was announced, the evening reached its natural clima, filled with smiles photographs and applause. The gathering captured the true essence of Avurudu with warmth and celebrations.