Features
Tuk-tuk tourism truths: Cutting through the lies with honest replies
If tourist safety were the true priority, the campaign against self-drive tuk-tuks would be in favour of the real dangers. Data shows that for visitors to Sri Lanka, walking or riding a motorcycle carries a significantly higher risk than driving a low-speed, enclosed three-wheeler. Therefore, opposing a regulated self-drive model for tourists who are rigorously licensed and hold a valid International Driving Permit (IDP) is irrational. This stance ignores comparative safety data to block a form of tourism that offers profound economic benefits, all while permitting statistically more dangerous activities. There is no justification for obstructing well-trained, IDP-holding tourists when the alternatives we allow are far more hazardous.
Yet this very scene of organic tourism is what a powerful lobby in Sri Lanka seems determined to prevent, based on a narrative not of fact, but of fiction.
The myth, pushed relentlessly by segments of the informal tourism transport sector, is as pervasive as it is unfounded: that allowing tourists to drive tuk-tuks is an inherent safety risk. This claim, echoed in the ears of policymakers, has risked a modern, inclusive, and globally aligned tourism model. The truth, however, tells a different story – one where safety is a shared responsibility requiring holistic solutions, not a ‘weaponised excuse’ to eliminate competition and stifle innovation.
The safety smokescreen: A closer look at the data
Research by Prof. Niranga Amarasingha (2021) : specializing in Transportation Engineering reveals that motorcycles are involved in over half of all road fatalities in Sri Lanka. If safety were truly the concern, motorcycles – not tuk-tuks, which are limited to 40km/h – would be the focus of these attacks. So why, then, is there no lobby to restrict motorcycles?
According to data from the Ministry of Transport, Highways and Urban Development, road fatalities in 2022 comprised 33.2% motorcycles, 31.1% pedestrians, 8.5% bicyclists, 7.3% motor cars and dual-purpose vehicles, 7.3% rear riders, 4.7% lorries, 4.2% three-wheelers, 3.5% buses, and 0.2% other. With around 1.18 million registered three-wheelers compared to 900,000 cars, Sri Lanka has more three-wheelers on the road yet they account for a smaller share of fatalities.
A frequent criticism is that Sri Lanka’s roads are too hazardous for foreign drivers. But the data tell a different story. As Ms. Amarasingha notes, Sri Lanka’s fatality rate in 2013 was about 11 per 100,000, well below the 20.1 per 100,000 average for middle-income countries. In reality, Sri Lanka’s roads are no more dangerous, and in many cases safer than those in Thailand, Indonesian, Vietnam, Malaysia, or South Africa, all of which thrive on self-drive tourism
Are tourists unsafe drivers?
Let’s address the central allegation head-on: are foreign drivers with International Driving Permits (IDPs) a menace on Sri Lankan roads?
The argument collapses under the weight of its own logic. Tourists arriving in Sri Lanka with a valid driving license have already undergone rigorous licensing procedures in their home countries. Nations like the United Kingdom, Germany and Australia have some of the most demanding driving tests in the world, often requiring over 200 hours of supervised practice hours, hazard perception tests, and stringent theory exams. To suggest that a driver licensed in such a system is inherently unqualified is to disregard international standards that Sri Lanka itself benefits from when its citizens drive abroad.
A senior road safety expert, who wished to remain anonymous due to the political sensitivity of the topic put it plainly: “Our road safety problems aren’t caused by tourists; they’re built into the system — weak infrastructure, chaotic traffic flow, and inconsistent rule enforcement. Isolating a few tourist-driven tuk-tuks, a fraction of a fraction of total users and presenting them as the primary safety concern is absurd. It’s not a safety strategy; it’s a smokescreen. A solution searching for a problem.
There is no evidence to indicate that tourists in self-drive tuk-tuks are involved in a disproportionate number of accidents. The ‘dangerous tourist driver’ is a spectre, a convenient phantom invoked to protect a vested interest.
The real agenda: Protectionism masquerading as prudence
Beneath the veneer of safety concerns lies a stark truth: fear of competition. The self-drive model empowers the tourist to choose. It breaks their dependence on pre-arranged, often overpriced, hired vehicles that operate on commissions, funnelling tourists through the same gem shops, spice gardens, tea outlets, and hotel chains. Instead of concentrating profits in a few well-trodden hotspots, self-drive tourism disperses income to rural villages and small businesses along the road less travelled.
This democratisation of travel directly challenges the monopoly held by some informal operators. This is not about safety; it’s about revenue. It’s a classic case of an incumbent industry seeking regulatory protection to shut out a new, consumer-friendly model. More than just a new model, it shuts out a completely new demographic of tourists who wish to enter the country. While the predominant tourist markets that Sri Lanka has attracted over the last two decades have been Russian, Indian and Chinese. The new self-drive market is dominated by tourists from Europe, America and Australia – generating a whole new revenue stream, marketing and advertising for the country. Self-drive tuktuk tourism even features on the Australian edition of the Amazing Race: Celebrity Edition (still being aired).
By lobbying against clear regulations for self-drive tuk-tuks, they are not protecting Sri Lanka’s roads; they are protecting their own profit margins at the cost of Sri Lanka’s overall tourism economy and access to the growing adventure travel market.
The impact of this protectionism is twofold. First, it stifles the growth of a high-value tourism segment that, as SLTDA highlighted, encourages longer stays and disperses spending deep into rural economies. Second, it blocks a revolutionary stream of passive income for thousands of Sri Lankans from women like Marie in Bandarawela to pensioners and micro-entrepreneurs who have found financial stability by renting their humble tuk-tuk asset to this new market.
The question for policymakers is this: should national tourism policy be shaped by the innovative potential of a new model that grows the global Sri Lankan tourism market, benefiting a diverse, often rural cross-section of citizens, or by the protectionist demands of a few?
The high cost of regulatory ambiguity
Sri Lanka’s laws already recognise the International Driving Permit (IDP) as a valid licence for tourists renting and driving tuk-tuks. The problem isn’t the law, it’s the lack of consistent enforcement and communication. Tourists arrive well-informed, having seen the country promoted as an adventure destination and knowing that Sri Lanka is a signatory to the 1949 Geneva Convention on Road Traffic. Yet on arrival, they face contradictory advice at airport counters, confusion among rental companies, and the risk of being stopped by police officers unaware of the law. The result is a damaging disconnect between what the law guarantees and what travellers experience on the ground.
Industry sources indicate that up to 10 such ‘harassment’ incidents are reported across the country each day. In the age of social media, each incident is a potential crisis and damaging to the overall tourism revenue of the country. A tourist blogger with thousands of followers, detained by the roadside over a document that is valid under international law, does not post a story about Sri Lanka’s beautiful beaches. They post a video about bureaucratic inefficiency and a nation that is unwelcoming. This ‘unofficial’ barrier actively undermines the millions spent by Sri Lanka Tourism on global promotional campaigns, creating a damaging dissonance between the brand promise and the on-ground reality.
Conversely, as we have seen with the global exposure from figures like Jonty Rhodes, when the experience is seamless, it generates a torrent of free, authentic, and overwhelmingly positive marketing. So, the choice is between fostering ambassadors or creating critics.
A path forward: Clarity, courage, and modernization
Sri Lanka doesn’t face real barriers to self drive tuk-tuk tourism — only imagined ones. The obstacles are not in safety nor in legalities. They are narratives shaped by fear and protectionism. The truth is simple: self-drive tuk-tuk tourism is legal, safe, empowering, and transformative. It brings income to rural families, connection to travellers, and authenticity to the nation’s tourism story. What’s holding us back isn’t danger — it’s fear. It’s time to cut through the myths, trust the data, and let Sri Lanka move forward freely, fearlessly, and on its own terms. Sri Lanka, with its compact diversity and iconic tuk-tuk, is perfectly poised to be a global leader in experiential travel.
By Calistas Wijesooriya
Features
Samarawickrama’s rise gives Sri Lanka a second pillar
Harshitha Samarawickrema was 14 when Sri Lankan women’s cricket first pricked the national consciousness. She had already been playing cricket for her school, Gothami Balika Vidyalaya, but had largely pursued cricket merely for the sake of playing a sport, and also because she had enjoyed watching the men’s team play. But watching Sri Lanka defeat England in a thriller at the 2013 World Cup stirred up a deeper yearning.
“I’d watched all of the matches at that World Cup actually – that was the first time those kind of matches were telecast,” Samarawickrama said once. “That’s when I decided I was going to play and win matches for Sri Lanka one day.”
That victory against England was a new dawn for Sri Lanka’s women for two reasons. First up it was the highest-profile victory on their ledger until then, marking an unexpected high point in a World Cup in which little was generally expected of the team. But it also marked the rocket-powered arrival of Chamari Athapaththu, who top-scored with 62 to help set up the chase.
Thirteen years later, Samarawickrama has not only fulfilled her promise to herself, she has also helped Sri Lanka bring to life the promise of that 2013 campaign. Athapaththu, who has since has become the superstar around which Sri Lanka’s cricket orbits, has never known a more consistent batting collaborator than Samarawickrama. In T20Is, the pair have put on 1,202 runs together – easily the best for Sri Lanka. Though both are lefties who revel in pressure, that’s about where the similarities end – Athapaththu having grown up idolising the big-hitting of Sanath Jayasuriya, while Samarawickrama had been a disciple of the Kumar Sangakkara school of left-handed batting. (Samarawickrama still tries to replicate that famous bent-kneed cover drive, though she invariably sprinkles a little of of her own flair to the endeavour.) Oppositions have found this combination difficult to contend with, Athapaththu commanding through the legside and brutal on errors of length, while Samarawickrama flits around the crease and carves boundaries through cover and point.
It has been clear for years now that Sri Lanka’s chances in pretty much any match depend primarily on Athapaththu runs. But Samarawickrama’s advance as a T20 batter has now opened up a new frontier in the team’s batting performance. Ideally, what Sri Lanka want is not merely big runs from their captain, but a strong partnership between Athapaththu and Samarawickrama. In victories, the Athapaththu-Samarawickrama stand averages 41.38.
More tellingly, a good Samarawickrama innings has become as reliable a predictor of a strong Sri Lanka showing as a good Athapaththu innings. In T20I wins, Athapaththu averages 40.18 and strikes at 131, in comparison to 17.94 and a strike rate of 94 in losses. Samarawickrama’s corresponding numbers are even more stark. In Sri Lanka victories, Samarawickrama averages 44.08 with a strike rate of 109. In losses those numbers are 16.94 and 87. Other Sri Lanka batters have leveled up in recent years too – Kavisha Dilhari, Nilakshika Silva and Hasini Perera having become more frequent contributors, while 20-year-old Vishmi Gunaratne has also showed promise. But 11 years into her international career, Samarawickrama now has a serious body of work.
Samarawickrama had been modest in the shortest format in 2025, but she arrives at the Women’s T20 World Cup 2026 having had a good six months. Against Bangladesh in April, Samarawickrama had cracked 61 off 35, then 49 off 29, in back-to-back matches that Sri Lanka won (Samarawickrama was top-scorer on both occasions). This was in addition to having put up good numbers in the ODI series that preceded the T20Is. Her 36 not out off 34 in a comfortable warm-up win against Netherlands suggests she is still riding on that form.
This is the first T20 World Cup in which serious runs are expected of Samarawickrama, and if history is much to go by, she is not the sort to be daunted by occasion. Samarawickrama’s finest moments as a Sri Lanka cricketer had come in their most-celebrated win of all, in the Asia Cup final of 2024, against India. Typically, that chase of 166 in Dambulla had been propelled by an 87-run Athapaththu-Samarawickrama stand, but when Athapaththu was dismissed, Samarawickrama ensured she remained at the crease until the winning moments, hitting 69 not out off 51, ultimately collecting the Player-of-the-Match award.
If 2013 was a new dawn inspiring a fresh generation of Sri Lanka cricketers, 2024 was the year in which the team hammered its stake into the ground, breaking through into an entirely new galaxy of recognition and acclaim at home. Frequently batting in the shadow of Athapaththu, but always charting her own path, Samarawickrama has grown into a leader.
[Cricinfo]
Features
US’ anti-migrant stance set to intensify tensions in Western camp
The announcement by the US authorities of an anti-migrant stance during a recent commemoration in France of the epochal D-Day Landings of June 6, 1944, ought to strike impartial observers as a supreme irony. Whereas what should have been expected was a vibrant celebration of the beginning of the process of Western Europe freeing itself decisively from Nazi or fascist control during the crucial stages of World War Two, this was not to be.
What the world heard instead was a call to contemporary Western Europe to arm itself against a seemingly rising and threatening migrant presence in the region. In other words, the migrant must be despised and ‘shown the door’.
Instead of a commemoration that rejoiced in the flourishing of liberal democracy and its values what one got was a strong affirmation of fascism and racial chauvinism. US Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth vented his spleen against the migrant or foreigner presence in Europe reportedly thus: ‘Sadly today different European beaches are stormed by different dangerous ideologies.’ To ‘beaches in Spain and Italy and Greece and Bulgaria, boats and men arrive. When will European capitals do something about that invasion?’
While at the outbreak of World War Two it was Nazi Germany that was doing the invading and bringing some principal European countries under its suzerainty, this time around we are being given to understand that it’s migrants to the West who are seeking to colonize the latter. It goes without saying that such inflammatory rhetoric would have the deleterious effect of keeping racial tensions alive in the West and jeopardize all possibilities of the countries concerned cementing and maintaining social stability.
The Trump administration gives the impression of taking a leaf from the politically underdeveloped regions of the South to keep the US polity stable and united. In South Asia, for instance, we are not short of ambitious demagogues who use what is referred to as the ‘race card’ to gather unto themselves a following and thereby further their political fortunes. By seeking to stir and sustain anti-migrant hysteria, the Trump administration is also essentially replicating Nazi Germany’s policy of anti-Semitism. That is, fascism is very much alive in the US under President Trump.
Such efforts at churning racial hysteria at this juncture in the US should not come as a surprise. For all intents and purposes, the Trump administration is nowhere near achieving its aims in West Asia, for instance, in the short term. It has failed to bring Iran down to its knees, as it hoped to do, but is adopting the expedient of keeping the world guessing and confused on what it is doing in the region, since it cannot withdraw from the theatre in a hurry without losing face.
While perhaps working out an escape strategy the Trump administration it seems, is hoping to maintain its following at home intact and silent by playing on their racial biases and insecurities. Hence, the anti-foreigner campaign.
Simultaneously, the Trump administration will need to keep a close eye on how economic pressures on the domestic front are panning out. Anti-administration sentiments first break to the surface at meal tables. On this score, the news cannot be good because the average US family’s spending power ought to be shrinking on account of rising energy and oil prices. Consequently, it would not be a bad idea to keep the attention of the US consumer diverted by adeptly playing ‘the race card’; once again, lessons from intellectually bankrupt Southern politicians are coming in handy.
To be sure such comparisons many politicians in vibrantly democratic countries would find quite unflattering. But the stark truth is that racism cannot be tolerated in civilized societies and those politicians who resort to it risk being branded as racists of the first degree. In fact they could be seen as being on par with the likes of German dictator Adolph Hitler and his close collaborators.
However, on the question of migrant policy the Trump administration would likely be at polar opposites with the most vibrant of liberal democracies of the West. This will be the case with the UK, France and Italy for instance. The latter continue to keep their doors open to legal migrants and they are likely to view a virtual blanket ban on migrants as reprehensible.
Moreover, in the foremost democracies of the West debates are vibrantly ongoing on the need to keep racism or any hint of it completely outlawed in the public plane. There is the case of the UK, for instance, where the authorities continue to emphatically pinpoint their adherence to the principle of anti-racism in the conduct of public affairs.
One proof of the above was the parliamentary debate relating to the killing of 18-year-old Henry Nowak in Southampton. Police handling of the victim came in for sharp scrutiny by particularly the opposition in the House of Commons but there seemed to be a consensus over the main political divide that the matter should not be politicized.
Moreover, the UK authorities stressed in the House the government’s strict adherence to the policy of non-racism. It was also pointed out that British institutions set up to manage racism at the national, county and neighbourhood levels, for example, were very much intact. In fact, Sri Lanka could gain considerably by studying and implementing locally, legislation modeled on the relevant UK laws if it is in earnest when it speaks of ‘reconciliation’.
Accordingly, it is highly unlikely that Western Europe would ‘cave in’, so to speak, to US pressure on issues related to migration. The liberal democracies of Western Europe in particular would remain for the foreseeable future migrant-welcoming, multi-ethnic and plural democracies.
Nor is it likely that Western Europe would be passively receptive to US demands that it drastically increases its defense spending to meet the latter’s aims. Within the Western fold the EU is remaining committed to backing Ukraine, for instance, in its ongoing armed resistance to the Russian invasion and it is not giving any indication of being deferent to US pressure.
However, although tensions would continue to bristle within US-Western Europe relations on the above and numerous other matters of contention it would be far too premature to announce a parting of company between the two sections of the West. In that sense, the post-World War Two order remains essentially intact. There are still many things in common between the two, particular on the economic plane, that will ensure the continuance of the partnership.
Features
A decade among Yala’s ghosts of gold
The first rays of dawn creep over the ancient rocks of Yala. The Indian Ocean glimmers in the distance, and the wilderness slowly awakens. Somewhere amid the scrub jungle, a pair of amber eyes scans the landscape.
For wildlife conservationist and leopard researcher Milinda Wattegedara, moments such as these have defined more than a decade of dedication to one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic creatures—the Sri Lankan leopard.
What began as fascination evolved into a remarkable conservation journey that has transformed the understanding of Yala’s leopard population and placed Sri Lanka firmly on the global wildlife research map.
“Long before I ever lifted a camera, leopards had already captured my imagination,” says Wattegedara. “What fascinated me was not merely their beauty but the complexity of their lives—their hunting strategies, movements, reproductive behaviour and their remarkable ability to adapt to changing environments.”
That fascination led to the birth of the Yala Leopard Diary in 2013, an ambitious long-term project dedicated to documenting individual leopards and unraveling the mysteries surrounding their lives.
For many visitors, a leopard sighting is a fleeting thrill. For Wattegedara and his team, every encounter is a chapter in an ongoing scientific story.
“Each photograph was never the end of an encounter,” he explains. “It was the beginning of deeper questions. How did a particular leopard use the landscape? How did its behaviour change with the seasons? What environmental pressures shaped its decisions?”
These questions drove years of meticulous fieldwork. Every sighting was carefully recorded with details including location, habitat, behaviour, date and time. Photographs were analysed to identify individual animals through unique spot patterns, allowing researchers to distinguish one leopard from another with remarkable accuracy.
What followed was groundbreaking.

YF77 “Shelly” pauses in quiet observation, embodying the alertness
and grace that define Yala’s leopard population.
From 2013 to 2026, the Yala Leopard Diary identified an astonishing 189 individual leopards within the Yala Block 1. The research revealed a leopard density of approximately 0.524 leopards per square kilometre, making Yala one of the highest leopard-density landscapes ever recorded anywhere in the world.
Such findings have elevated Yala’s status among global wildlife researchers.
Nestled between the Indian Ocean and a mosaic of habitats, ranging from rocky outcrops to dense scrub forests, Yala offers an ecological stage unlike any other.
Here, leopards are photographed silhouetted against ocean horizons, perched atop ancient granite formations, resting on tree branches and stalking prey across sunlit grasslands.
The images tell stories of extraordinary lives.
There is Haminee, a devoted mother navigating the challenges of raising cubs in a competitive landscape. There is Lucas, one of Yala’s most frequently documented males, striding confidently across the Gonalabba Plains with the vast ocean forming an unforgettable backdrop.
There is Ruki demonstrating the species’ incredible strength by hoisting prey onto branches, and Shelly, quietly surveying her surroundings in a moment of feline vigilance.
Together, these individuals have become familiar characters in a living wilderness drama.

YM31 “Ruki” secures prey on a branch, illustrating the remarkable strength and coordination of the Sri Lankan leopard.
Recognising the immense value of long-term documentation, Wattegedara joined forces with fellow researchers Dushyantha Silva, Raveendra Siriwardana and Mevan Piyasena to establish the Yala Leopard Centre in 2020.
Located at the Palatupana entrance to the Yala National Park, the centre is believed to be the world’s first information facility dedicated exclusively to leopards.
“The centre serves as a repository of knowledge, accumulated through years of observation and research,” Wattegedara says. “Our goal is to connect visitors with the science behind conservation and foster a deeper appreciation of these magnificent animals.”
The project’s impact extends far beyond Sri Lanka’s borders.
Research arising from the Yala Leopard Diary has been published in internationally recognised scientific journals. One study introduced an innovative framework for identifying individual leopards, while another documented an extraordinary and previously unrecorded case of a leopard cub being consecutively adopted by two different adult females—first a relative and later an unrelated leopardess.
The discovery attracted international scientific attention and highlighted the complexity of leopard social behaviour.
Yet for Wattegedara, the most important lesson remains one of humility.
“One conclusion has become increasingly clear,” he reflects. “Our understanding of these leopards remains far from complete. We are only beginning to understand how they live, adapt and persist in one of Sri Lanka’s most dynamic protected landscapes.”

YF15 “Hope” descends Rukvila Rock at dawn, showcasing the agility and adaptability of Yala’s leopards.
His words underscore an essential conservation truth: the more we learn about nature, the more mysteries emerge.
As Sri Lanka navigates growing environmental challenges, the Yala Leopard Diary stands as a shining example of what sustained observation, scientific curiosity and public engagement can achieve.
Beyond the stunning photographs and remarkable sightings lies something even more valuable—a growing body of knowledge capable of informing future conservation decisions and ensuring that future generations inherit a wilderness where leopards continue to roam free.
For more than a decade, Wattegedara and his colleagues have followed the tracks of Yala’s elusive predators through dust, rain and scorching heat.
Their work has revealed that every leopard has a story, every sighting has significance and every photograph can contribute to conservation.
And perhaps, most importantly, it has reminded us that the golden ghosts of Yala still have many secrets left to share.
By Ifham Nizam
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