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They made America’s clothing. Now they are getting punished for it
Already living from hand to mouth, millions of garment workers across Asia fear for their jobs as a deadline to strike a trade deal with the US – or face punishing tariffs – looms closer.
On 9 July, following a 90-day pause on tariffs for countries to negotiate deals, the US president notified several countries in the region of new levies set to begin on 1 August. The new rates, while lower than those proposed in April, have done little to allay anxieties.
Among nations that received letters from Donald Trump were apparel hubs like Cambodia and Sri Lanka, which are heavily dependent on the US as an export market. The letters said that the two nations would face tariffs of 36% and 30% respectively.
Nike, Levi’s and Lululemon are among big-name US brands that have the bulk of their clothing made in these countries.
“Can you imagine what will happen if we lose our jobs? I’m so worried, especially for my kids. They need food,” says Nao Soklin, who works in a garment factory in southeastern Cambodia.
Ms Soklin and her husband Kok Taok make a living sewing bags for 10 hours a day. Together, they earn about $570 a month – barely enough to cover rent and provide for their two young sons and aged parents.
“I want to send a message to President Trump, to tell him to please lift the tariff on Cambodia… We need our jobs to support our families,” she told the BBC.
Cambodia, which has become a popular alternative to Chinese retailers because of its ready supply of low-wage labour, exported more than $3bn worth of apparel to the US last year, according to the Asean Statistics Division. The sector, which employs more than 900,000 people, makes up more than a tenth of the country’s overall exports.
For Sri Lanka, exports to the US helped the garment industry – which directly employs some 350,000 people – earn $1.9bn last year, making it the country’s third-largest foreign exchange earner.
“If 30% is the end number, Sri Lanka is in trouble because our competitors, such as Vietnam, have received lower tariffs,” Yohan Lawrence, secretary general of Sri Lanka’s Joint Apparel Association Forum, told the Reuters news agency.
Sri Lankan authorities are hopeful of negotiating a further reduction to the tariffs but have not disclosed what they would consider as an acceptable rate.
Some of its leaders have noted that the country has received the highest concession – of 14 percentage points – so far as a result of earlier negotiations. “We see this as the beginning of a very good situation,” secretary to the Finance Minister Harshana Suriyapperuma said last week.
Cambodia, which got a 13 percentage point concession, is also seeking further talks. “We are doing everything we can to protect the interests of investors and workers,” said Deputy Prime Minister Sun Chanthol, who leads the negotiating team.
“We want the tariff to be zero… But we respect their decision and will continue trying to negotiate a lower rate,” he said.

Trump says the tariffs are needed to reduce the gap between the value of goods the US buys from other countries and those it sells to them.
“Our relationship has been, unfortunately, far from Reciprocal,” the US leader wrote in letters to various countries last week, which he also posted on his Truth Social platform.
But analysts disagree.
Trump’s tariffs overlook the benefits that the US enjoys from existing trade agreements, including lower-priced clothing and higher profits for US companies sourcing from countries like Sri Lanka or Cambodia, says Mark Anner, dean at Rutgers’ School of Management and Labor Relations.
For decades, the US, European Union and Canada had in place a quota system that reserved a certain share of their markets for developing countries like Sri Lanka. The system, which was phased out in 2005, helped Sri Lanka’s garment sector flourish despite stiff competition.
“For the US to now impose prohibitive tariffs that effectively shut these countries out of the market goes against the very development path it once prescribed,” Prof Anner said.

It is unrealistic to expect small, developing economies to not run a trade deficit with the US, says Sheng Lu, a professor at the University of Delaware’s Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies. “How many Boeing airplanes does Cambodia or Sri Lanka need and can afford to purchase each year?” he asked.
Asst Prof Lu believes the strategic rivalry between the US and China is also a factor in trade talks, given how these garment-exporting countries are integrated into supply chains that rely heavily on Chinese inputs.
They now have to “strike a delicate balance” between maintaining economic ties with China while also meeting new US demands, which may include cutting the use of Chinese inputs in production, he says.
Washington’s tariffs add new pressures to familiar challenges in the industry: poverty and weak labour rights in Cambodia, and an ongoing economic crisis in Sri Lanka.
Women, who make up seven in 10 of garment workers in the region, are set to bear the brunt of the tariffs. More downward pressure on their already chronically low wages mean their children could go hungry, while potential layoffs would be even more devastating.
Surangi Sandya, who works in a factory in the Sri Lankan town of Nawalapitiya, says she feels an axe hanging over her.
“Companies don’t work at a loss… If orders decrease, if there is a loss, there may be a possibility that the company will shut down,” she says. Ms Sandya started out as a rank-and-file seamstress in 2011, then worked her way up to become the supervisor of a 70-women team.
If push comes to shove, some Cambodian workers say they will consider moving to Thailand to find jobs – even if they must do it illegally.
“Our livelihoods depend on the garment factory. We won’t survive if our boss shuts it down,” An Sopheak tells the BBC from her tiny 16 sq m room in Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh.
“We have little education. We can’t find other jobs. We pray every day that President Trump will lift the tariff. Please think about us and our poor country.”
[BBC]
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Devine’s all-round masterclass hands New Zealand 2-1 series lead
Sophie Devine made Eden Park her own little playground as she brought up her 22nd T20I half-century and carried New Zealand to a 2-1 series lead over South Africa with two games to go. She had also picked up a couple of wickets earlier in the day and backed up her words when she said South Africa’s 149 for 7 was a little bit under par.
New Zealand have never chased more than 150 at home. The small boundaries in Auckland were a friend in that regard, particularly with Annerie Dercksen and Ayanda Hlubi occasionally straying down leg. South Africa tightened up though and the wickets of Amelia Kerr and Brooke Halliday in the 10th over left the chase in a tense situation. New Zealand needed 82 off 60 with six wickets in hand. Devine was 13 off 10.
A pull shot off Chloe Tryon to start the 11th over signalled the shift in momentum. The square boundaries are bigger than the straight ones at Eden Park and yet Devine kept finding them. She collected 46 runs at a strike rate of 219 on the leg side. At the time the fifth-wicket partnership had hit 50, Maddy Green had made only 12 off 15. It was all Devine from the other end and it was all Devine till the end. Her superpowers now include winning the game without touching the ball. Dercksen missed the cut strip as she tried to hide it away from the batter’s reach.
Those five no-balls bringing an end to proceedings highlighted how wayward South Africa’s attack was compared to New Zealand’s. Jess Kerr’s early swing dominated the powerplay. Devine and Suzie Bates taking pace off kept control through the middle and barring another Kayla Reyneke onslaught, it was one-way traffic.
South Africa had to wait 23 balls for the first boundary off the bat on Friday. Dercksen made it worth the wait with a neat little flick off her legs that travelled all the way for six over deep midwicket. Dercksen arrived with the score on 9 for 2 in the third over and put the pressure back on New Zealand. While she was at the crease, she was responsible for more then half the boundaries (4 out of 7) her team scored. Thanks to that, Laura Wolvaardt could drop anchor and go at her preferred pace, though 37 off 39 wasn’t a good look for the captain, who later admitted they were well short of a competitive total.
A pitch with 10mm of grass offered enough for the seamers and even someone with their eye in was found out when Devine went into the pitch. The little legcutter – a response to being hit for six the previous ball – found Dercksen in two minds, whether to attack or defend, and took down her off stump. South Africa lost 59 for 5 between the eighth and the 18th overs, going 38 balls without a boundary.
Bates continued to find more success with the ball. She took a wicket in her first over and took responsibility in the death as well. New Zealand held their line and length really well, refusing access to the straight boundary and routinely cramping the batters up, guiding them to hit the areas – midwicket and square leg – that they had covered in the field.
Then Mair missed her length and was clubbed down the ground for six. It highlighted how a bowler had to be perfect against a batter of such power. Reyneke is immense when she can free her arms and go down the ground. She grew up playing in boys’ teams. She came into this series with a 75 off 63 for Western Province, who were 93 for 6 and still ended up winning the Pro50 game thanks to their 20-year-old phenom. She captained South Africa in the Under-19 World Cup when they went to the final last year. She’s marked for big things.
Reyneke’s presence forced Jess Kerr to go wide in the final over – too wide. The umpire penalising her made the bowler shift her line and that little bit was enough for Reyneke to smash two sixes and a four, all down the ground, and hoist South Africa to 149 for 7. She wasn’t given a lot to get under but as soon as she was given one, she smashed it out of the park. The margin for error was breathtakingly small.
Brief scores:
New Zealand Women 152 for 4 in 18.4 overs (Isabella Gaze 17, Amelia Kerr 30, Sophie Devine 59*, Maddie Green 34*; Annerie Dercksen 1-17, Ayanda Hilubi 1-31, Nonkululeko Mlaba 1-30 ) beat South Africa Women 149 for 7 in 20 overs (Laura Wolvaardt 37, Annerie Dercksen 27, Kayla Reyneke 34*; Jess Kerr 1-30, Rosemary Mair 1-32, Sophie Devine 2-21, Suzie Bates 2-10) by six wickets
(Cricinfo)
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Senegal and Morocco tied by religion and trade but divided by AFCON fallout
When governing body officials the Africa Cup of Nations title to Morocco, overturning Senegal’s victory two months after the chaotic final, football fans were stunned.
The impact of the decision could spread beyond sport and weaken the bond between the nations.
While Moroccan fans took to the streets to celebrate their team’s belated success, the decision by the Confederation of African Football (CAF) was met with disbelief in Senegal, with fans and authorities calling the decision “unjust”.
Senegal’s government on Wednesday said it will pursue “all appropriate legal avenues” to overturn the decision and called for an international investigation into “suspected corruption” within African football’s governing body.
The Senegal Football Federation (FSF) then announced on Thursday that it had instructed lawyers, aparently carrying through its threat to take the matter to the Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS). Such a move could lead to a yearlong legal battle before a ruling.
CAF’s appeals board on Tuesday ruled that Senegal forfeited the final by leaving the field of play without the referee’s authorisation, and it awarded Morocco a default 3-0 win.
The game was delayed for 14 minutes as most of the Senegalese players and staff returned to their dressing room, while Senegal fans battled stewards behind one of the goals in protest against a controversial penalty call for Morocco after Senegal had a goal ruled out.
The players returned, Morocco missed the penalty, and Senegal won the match 1-0 in extra time.
Morocco and Senegal have long shared close ties built on religion, trade and culture. Tijaniyyah, a Sufi Muslim order, is widely followed in both countries. Moroccan banks and companies heavily invest in Senegal’s finance and agriculture sectors. Cultural exchanges include student programs, migration and joint festivals.
But the tensions surrounding the final and CAF’s appeals court decision to overturn Senegal’s victory have put a strain on the relationship between the two countries.
Last month, 18 Senegal fans who were arrested on charges of hooliganism at the final were given prison terms of up to a year by a Moroccan court. The Senegalese government has expressed solidarity with the Senegalese supporters.
Seydina Issa Laye Diop, president of the Senegalese national team’s fan group called “12th Gainde”, told The Associated Press on Thursday that the incidents should not damage the relationship between Senegal and Morocco.
“However, there are limits: if this continues, it could somewhat affect the pride of the Senegalese people,” Diop said. “If the goal is to preserve friendship, then it must be nurtured. Small gestures can have a big impact. These are things we can move past, especially since, during the trial, no solid argument has justified the continued detention of these supporters.”
Mariama Ndeye, a student in Senegal’s capital Dakar, said the decision has negatively affected her view of Moroccans.
“When everything goes well, they call us their brothers. But when things don’t go their way, they start being nasty,” Ndeye said.

Politics and sport are rarely separated as Senegal and Morocco find out
On Wednesday, Morocco’s embassy in Dakar called on Moroccans in Senegal to “demonstrate restraint, vigilance, and a sense of responsibility.”
“It is important to recall that, in all circumstances, it is only a match, the outcome of which should never justify any form of escalation or excessive remarks between brotherly peoples,” the embassy said.
While the dispute has remained centred around the football match, bad feelings have spread more generally.
In Casablanca, home appliances business owner Ismail Fnani said he felt like other African countries were rooting against Morocco during the final.
“Honestly, my views toward Senegalese and sub-Saharan Africans changed after this,” he said. “We used to feel sympathy and help them because they were migrants who had struggled to get here. Where there was once sympathy and compassion, now I will treat them as they have treated us.”
Mohamed el-Arabi, who works in a grocery shop in Casablanca, said he did not celebrate the decision awarding Morocco the title.
“We would have preferred it to stay with Senegal because it doesn’t feel right otherwise,” El Arabi said.
“People here have started hating Senegalese. They no longer provide them with help. We used to be like brothers, especially since they are Muslims like us, but that is no longer the case,” he added.
African football thrust into spotlight as CAF face accusations
The Senegalese government’s allegation of suspected corruption” at CAF followed anger at perceived favouritism towards Morocco, which is a 2030 World Cup co-host and has invested heavily to become a football superpower.
On Wednesday, CAF President Patrice Motsepe defended the body against perceptions of favouritism towards Morocco.
“Not a single country in Africa will be treated in a manner that is more preferential, or more advantageous, or more favourable than any other country on the African continent,” Motsepe said in a video published on the CAF website.
[Aljazeera]
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Fifa rules women’s teams must have female coaches
Every team in Fifa’s women’s football tournaments must include at least one female head coach or assistant coach following the introduction of new regulations.
The requirements will come into effect during the under-17s and under-20s Women’s World Cup and Women’s Champions Cup competitions this year.
The decision was made at the Fifa Council on Thursday, and discussed the long-term strategy of female representation in coaching.
Under the new ruling, at least two staff members on the bench of every team at matches must be female, with one in an assistant coach or head coach role.
The rule applies to all youth and senior tournaments, including clubs and national teams.
At the 2023 Women’s World Cup, 12 of the 32 head coaches were female, including England manager Sarina Wiegman.
“There are simply not enough women in coaching today. We must do more to accelerate change by creating clearer pathways, expanding opportunities, and increasing the visibility for women on our sidelines,” said Fifa’s chief football officer Jill Ellis.
“The new Fifa regulations, combined with targeted development programmes, mark an important investment in the current and future generation of female coaches.”
Fifa hopes these new regulations will see a rapid increase in female representation, including at the 2027 Women’s World Cup in Brazil.
Among some of the most high-profile female coaches is London-born Emma Hayes, who is joined by assistant Denise Reddy at the United States.
In 2024, Hayes told BBC Sport that a lack of female coaches in English football is “a massive issue” and urged the game’s administrators to “come up with more creative ways” to address it.
Other female English coaches at international level include Gemma Grainger at Norway, Casey Stoney at Canada and Carla Ward at the Republic of Ireland.
Canadian Rhian Wilkinson led Wales to their first major tournament at Euro 2025 last summer, while Dutchwoman Wiegman has guided England to back-to-back European titles and has been named the Fifa best women’s coach of the year on four occasions.
Wiegman was the only female coach in the quarter-final stage of the 2023 Women’s World Cup.
(BBC)
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