Features
THE HISTORY OF AMBALANGODA
By AN OCTOGENERIAN
Even though Ambalangoda is a little known sea side town, located approximately 54 miles south of Colombo it can claim to have a history which is not only interesting and significant but in many ways is unique. For these reasons especially its ‘uniqueness’, it is relevant to begin by describing the manner by which this ‘little known’ town derived its name.
One of the best is by referring to the celebrated historian D. W . Ferguson’s book ‘Ceylon in 1913’, in which he mentions that Ambalangoda had from earliest times been referred to as ‘The Rest House Village.’ The closest, if not the best translation of the words ‘Rest House’ into Sinhala is ‘ambalama.’ Hence ‘ambalama’ was transliterated to Ambalangoda.
Another oft repeated version is that a group of fishermen whose boat had been caught up in a violent storm which wrecked their sails as a result of which they were left drifting helplessly in the sea when suddenly they sighted in the near distance what appeared to be a plot of land located very near to a sandy beach. Whereupon in their joy and great relief they shouted to one another ‘ Aan Balan Goda.’ Which would mean Ambalangoda. This story though exciting can be dismissed as being a mythical.
At this point it is necessary to introduce the role of the Dutch in this town. Those readers familiar with the history of pre- colonial Ceylon would recall that the Dutch expelled the Portuguese from the island in 1658. However what is perhaps lesser known is that the first contact between the people of Ceylon and the Dutch was in 1602 when Admiral Joris van Spilbergen arrived in the port of Batticaloa and later proceeded to the Kandyan Kingdom to meet the reigning monarch Vimala Dharma Suriya the First and to have an audience with His Majesty in order to negotiate the terms by which the Dutch could conduct their trade in cinnamon.
As a result of the successful and cordial negotiations the Dutch as was traditional during that period delegated their authority to the Dutch East India Company from 1656 onwards till the British ousted the Dutch in 1796. It is a matter of interest to know that this company which was established on March 20, 1602 in the Netherlands has rightfully been recorded as being the first joint- stock company in the world.
This company is also referred to by its Dutch name as Vereenigde Oost -Indische Compagnie, and had its logo – VOC inscribed in many Dutch buildings scattered across the island. One prominent building being the Dutch Fort in Galle. A more prominent and certainly a more popular example is the DBU (Dutch Burgher Union) Club with its VOC Café in Colombo.
Many readers would be surprised to know that there was a time when cinnamon grew in abundance in the area around Ambalangoda. It was from the peeled bark of the evergreen branches of these trees that cinnamon was peeled. Ambalangoda by then had earned a reputation of having the best cinnamon in the world and had been referred to as the ‘Cinnamon Town’ which in Sinhala was ‘Kurundu Nagaraya.’ Furthermore, eight miles inland at the turn-off from the Southern Expressway there is a town referred to as ‘ ‘Kurundugahathepma ’which provides further proof regarding the prolific growth of cinnamon in the region.
It was the intention of the Dutch East India Company, to gain the sole monopoly of the cinnamon trade and consolidate their position against any foreigners specially the Arabian traders for which purpose they constructed an outpost in the town of Ambalangoda, consisting of a Court House which has since been identified as a protected historical monument by the Department of Archaeology.
Adjacent to the Court House there had been a remand cell for convicted prisoners and a stable for horses. On the front wall of the stable there can be seen even to this day a cemented plaque on which is inscribed the year of its construction which was in 1750 and also the name of the person who constructed it namely Adriaan Oustdyk, who was a high ranking official in the Dutch East India Company.
It is recorded that the stable was once used as the village church with a school master conducting the services in Sinhala. The floor of the church had been paved with tombstones taken from a nearby cemetery. In addition the Dutch also built a Rest House which served as the residence of the local Dutch magistrate. The Rest House was also a convenient and comfortable stop- over for Dutch dignitaries. During the British period it is claimed that the first British Governor of Colonial Ceylon, Sir Fredrick North ( 1798- 1805 ) spent a night at this Rest House during his tour around the island.
One of the attractions of this Rest House is that it is located on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea and because of the protective rocks around it is safe for bathing. In fact it is very similar to that of a salt water swimming pool. However it is sad to mention that this Rest House was wantonly destroyed sometime between 2008 and 2009 on the instructions of a local politician, who wanted to sell the land to an entrepreneur for the construction of a hotel school. But for reasons best known to the parties concerned it was never built.
However a stone slab was erected mentioning the intended construction of the controversial hotel school. This was smashed and removed by residents of the town who were annoyed and angry by the chicanery of the local authorities. Sadly, the remnants of this once popular Rest House is now used by drug addicts and other undesirable elements.
Located 200 meters or 218 yards east from the railway station is the large and imposing Sunandarama Maha Viharaya, built in 1750 on five acres of sacred land. Planted within these premises is the sacred Bodhi. According to reliable sources the Viharaya was once occupied by bhikkhunis. These same sources claim that in 1970 the Viharaya was ‘systematically started.’ Regrettably the writer is unable to explain the significance of this term. Irrespective of these dates, the Viharaya is reputed to contain some of the best known frescoes in the island, vividly depicting numerous Jathaka stories.
Synonymous with Ambalangoda to both tourists local residents are the intricate, eerie looking masks which have bulging eyes, protruding tongues painted in red to signify blood and fanged teeth. These are worn by those conducting specific rituals, the best known are the Kolam which has a tinge of humor since it ridicules the island’s former colonial life. Sanni – which is a form of exorcism performed to hopefully heal a person’s persistent illness. Raksha which is used in popular local festivals also involves the use of these masks.
It is claimed that the history of the crafting of these masks dates back to the 15th century and are hand painted and lacquered and made out of a type of a light strong wood similar to Balsa which grows in the rain forests of South America. Within the precincts of the town is a Mask Museum in which master craftsmen demonstrate the method of making these masks and if one so desires these can be purchased if for no other reason then just as souvenirs. Ambalangoda is also well known for the creation of string puppetry (readers of an early vintage may remember the hilarious movie – ‘Puppet on a String’ featuring the popular Hollywood actor Danny Kaye)
To get back to our own Ambalangoda string puppetry which had originated in 1830. The pioneer in this art form was Kandegoda Master Podisirina. When the former Prince of Wales – Edward VIII visited the island in 1922, Podisirina made a presentation which was based on the historical episode of the life of Ehelepola Nilame. The Prince was so impressed that he presented Podisirina with Rs. 500/- which at that time was a handsome reward and a gold medal. This was undoubtedly the very first gold medal won by a Ceylonese/Sri Lankan !! This presentation was conducted in a spacious house referred to as Bagatelle Walawwa, which as its name indicates would have been located in Colombo most probably along Bagatelle Road.
The writer is now reluctantly compelled to refer to a rather disreputable characteristic of many of the people of Ambalangoda by quoting Sir James Emerson Tennent who in 1845 was appointed by the British Government as Colonial Secretary of Ceylon in which capacity he travelled around the island.
In his Reminiscences he refers to the people of Ambalangoda many of whom he describes as being ‘ porawakarayo.’or ‘axe-weiIders.’ Paul E. Pieris the eminent scholar and historian has added his comments to that of Sir James Emerson Tennent by mentioning that the ‘porawakarayo’ were so proud of their ‘reputations’ that they would rather lay down their lives than abandon their stocks of ammunition!
Despite the notoriety of the ‘porawakarayo’ the people of Ambalangoda have gained a reputation for the preparation of a delectable cuisine consisting of mouth-watering Billing Achcharu, Ambul Thiyal and Jaadi. If none of the other attractions of this town and there are many- cannot tempt a visitor to this town these spicy preparations most certainly would.
The history of Ambalangoda does not end here. A list of alumni of one of the leading schools in Ambalangoda namely Dharmasoka College makes interesting reading. In this list can be read that Sisira de Abrew was a Puisne Judge of the Supreme Court of Sri Lanka, Dinesh Chandimal was captain of the Sri Lankan cricket team in Test cricket, Upul Tharanga captained the Limited Overs cricket team, Saman Jayantha played in 17 One Day International cricket matches., Ajit de Silva who represented the country in Test cricket, but was most unfortunately debarred from all formats of the game for having played in the controversial AROSA matches in South Africa. Mahinda Deshapriya who was the former Chairman of the Election Commission, J.E. Jayasuriya who was the Professor of Education in the University of Ceylon.
Lest we forget it is essential to mention that Field Marshal Sarath Fonseka who was the 18th Commander of the Sri Lanka Army and the first army officer to be promoted to that rank received his early education at Dharmasoka College. Two other high ranking officers of the services are mentioned namely Air Chief Marshal Jayalath Weerakkody, former Commander of the Sri Lankan Airforce, Admiral Piyal de Silva, former Commander of the Sri Lankan Navy and Osmund de Silva who was a former Inspector General of Police , .
Moving on to politics we come across the name of C. P. de Siva who first distinguished himself as a member of the elite Ceylon Civil Service and later became a leading politician who was an Honorable ( this term is used to precisely mean what it is meant to mean ) Minister of different Cabinets in which he held several portfolios. To write more about C.P.de Silva will take an entire page of this journal. Suffice it to mention that he was described as being the ‘Prince Amongst Politicians’. Alas! when will our country ever have persons like this! And finally and fittingly mention must be made of yet another Dharmasokian – Rohana Wijeweera who led the Janatka Vimukthi Peramuna.
May we end this article by exclaiming ‘Jayawewa’
Features
‘Lord Edgware Dies’
It has been some time since I read an Agatha Christie, the plot of which I cannot remember. So, I was delighted to find on the shelves of a friend Lord Edgware Dies, which I had a vague memory of, but no certainty about who had done it.
When I read it, I found that my memory of who was probably the killer was correct, but I could not be certain and the red herrings Christie threw in were so diverting that until almost the very end I wondered if I had been wrong.
The plot is very simple. Jane Wilkinson, who is married to Lord Edgware, tells him that she is desperate for a divorce since she is in love with a very proper Anglo-Catholic peer, Lord Melton, but Edgware refuses to divorce her. She asks Poirot to talk to him, which he does, and is surprised to find that Edgware has told Jane he is prepared to give her a divorce. This was, after he had categorically refused, through a letter, which Jane said she had not received.
That night Edgware is murdered, after Jane had been to see him, or so the butler said, and also Edgware’s secretary. But Jane had been that evening at a grand dinner many miles away, where a dozen fellow guests could swear to her presence.
There was a solution however to the mystery of two Jane Wilkinsons, namely a skilful impersonator called Carlotta Adams who, in the opening chapter had impersonated Jane Wilkinson, who had also been at the performance. But when Poirot goes to see her, he finds that she had been found dead on the morning after Edgware had been killed, of an overdose. And in her bag was a gold case, with a strange inscription, that contained the drug, along with a pair of pince-nez.
Her maid said she had written a letter to her sister in America and posted it the previous night. Poirot asks Inspector Japp to get the letter, and a transcript is received from America, and in it the name of Edgware’s nephew Ronald Marsh is mentioned; he had taken Carlotta to dinner after her performance, with which the book opens, and had then set her a challenge. Japp arrests Marsh, but Poirot is not happy and asks for the original of the letter, which the sister sends him. That shows that a page is missing, and the tear is obvious, though that raises the question as to why it had not simply been cut.
Matters are further complicated by the fact that Marsh had gone in a taxi to the Edgware house, along with Edgware’s daughter Geraldine, in the interval of an opera which had previously seemed to provide them with cast iron alibis. Geraldine had gone in to fetch her pearls so that Marsh could raise money he needed, and thus had an opportunity to kill Edgware, as did Marsh, for the driver said he had got out of the taxi while waiting and gone into the house.
Marsh explained why he had gone to the house on the night of the murder as having followed Bryan Martin, an American actor, who had been in love with Jane, whom he saw go into the house with a key. But there was no one visible when he entered, and Geraldine almost immediately came down and they left together. And Martin too has become an object of suspicion to Poirot, for he had been to see him before the murders were discovered with a story of being followed by a man with a gold tooth – a story Poirot immediately realized was false when he was asked how old the man was, and was told he was young, for young people did not have gold teeth.
A heap of French money Edgware had got for a trip to Paris was missing, but since Marsh had no need for it after his cousin’s offer of help, Poirot deduces that it must have been taken by the butler, who has disappeared. Christie has stressed that he is astonishingly handsome, unusual in a butler, and Poirot notes a resemblance to Martin, so he thinks the mysterious man going into the house must have been him.
Incidentally, later Poirot assumes that Edgware’s change of mind was because he was involved in some scandal, and I believe Christie intends us to see the cause of this in his handsome butler, though this is not specified.
Meanwhile, Poirot has asked Japp to find out the provenance of the case found in Carlotta’s handbag, and it turns out to have been made in Paris, specially commissioned, and collected by a woman with pince-nez.
But then another murder occurs—that of another guest at the grand dinner, which provided Jane with her alibi. The victim is an actor who had been bemused when Jane, at a lunch, thought the Judgment of Paris referred to the city. He told Hastings he wanted to see Poirot, but was killed before he could get to the appointment. Poirot had rushed there when told about his request, but it was too late.
Meanwhile, Poirot has tried out the pince-nez on Edgware’s secretary, but she could not see through these. It was only a chance remark heard outside the theatre that led him to try them out on Wilkinson’s maid Ellis, a spare pair that had been appropriated for the night of the murders.
Poirot then lays things out, having summoned Martin and told him that he probably suppressed Edgware’s letter, as he had been dropped by then and he did not want Jane to marry another. But after teasing Martin, Poirot says that Jane was in fact the murderer, and she got Carlotta to impersonate her at the dinner while she went to the house and killed her husband. After meeting Carlotta later and checking with her through a call that she had
not been rumbled, Jane had gone ahead with the murder – she put veronal into her drink and the case with veronal into the handbag. She forgot to take out the pince-nez she had used earlier to imitate an American. Carlotta had registered as the American in a hotel and Jane had gone to see her, and there they exchanged identities. After seen the letter, she made use of it by tearing off the page that referred to her, and the S of She, so that the person who had challenged Carlotta to impersonate her seemed to be a man.
There is a coda in which Jane, condemned to death, writes to Hastings, still full of pride at her ingenuity hoping she will be remembered.
Features
Desilt reservoirs, learn from our ancient irrigation systems
by Prof. O. A. Ileperuma
Silting of reservoirs is a major problem today affecting our hydropower production and irrigation systems. The main Mahaweli reservoirs are silted to a considerable extent reducing the water holding capacity of them. Due to poor soil management practices, floodwaters deposit large amounts of silt in these reservoirs. When the Polgolla reservoir was fully drained about two years back, one could see mountains of silt in the lower reaches of the reservoir. A rough estimate is that 50% of the total capacity of these reservoirs has been lost to siltation. This is a serious issue which affects not only power and agriculture but also flood control.
Our ancient irrigation systems ensured that desilting of reservoirs took place under royal decree where all users of the reservoirs were ordered to carry out desilting of reservoirs during the dry season. The clay thus collected was used in making bricks for the construction of great stupas which dot the landscape of our ancient kingdoms. This ensured that the reservoirs had their full capacity filled with water for the next cultivating season. Our ancient kings were clever enough not to construct reservoirs by blocking main rivers such as the Mahaweli. A classic example is the Minipe left canal where they tapped only the surface water of Mahaweli. Even the bigger tanks such as Nuwara Wewa and Parakrama Samudraya were fed with minor rivulets. There were also other ingenious features in the cascade irrigation systems built by the ancient kings, such as mud sluice canals and forest reservations between the reservoirs in the cascade system. These reservations helped trap silt and remove excess nutrients, which could otherwise contribute to increasing salinity as water flowed from one reservoir to another.
- Parakrama Samudraya
- Kalawewa
- Kotmale
A classic engineering marvel is the former Yoda Ela, which carries water from Kalawewa to Nuwara Wewa and Tissa Wewa. It is 87 km long although the straight distance between these points is only about 40 km. The gradient of this canal is about 10 cm per km or 6 inches per mile. Yodha Ela functions as a moving reservoir and feeds about 4,600 hectares of paddy lands. It is a winding canal with about 120 smaller reservoirs on its way. It was constructed during the reign of King Dhatusena around 459 AD and later expanded by King Parakramabahu by connecting more reservoirs to the network. Unfortunately, during the Mahaweli project our modern-day engineers constructed a concrete canal replacing the winding path of this Yoda Ela also called Jaya Ganga. This effectively removed the ability of the old Yoda Ela to remove silt and nutrients. The bank of this Ela has wet zone trees such as jak and areca nut growing well. They take up the nutrients from the flowing stream making the water suitable for irrigation later.
Ancient Mesopotamian civilisations depended on dams constructed along the two main rivers, Euphrates and Tigris. After continuous irrigation of their fields over several thousand years, salinity of the irrigated lands increased making them unsuitable for agriculture. People died due to famine and this clearly illustrates the danger of blocking main rivers for agriculture. There is scientific evidence that the salinity of paddy soils in the Mahaweli C area is increasing.
We saw the devastation caused by Cyclone Ditwah. The sluice gates of the Kotmale Reservoir were opened, and Kandy and Peradeniya were flooded. If the reservoir had had greater storage capacity, couldn’t the opening of the gates have been delayed? This may not be an argument that modern-day engineers would readily accept, and I am not an irrigation expert. These ideas may well be naïve. But most of us tend to think of reservoirs mainly in terms of hydropower generation and irrigation, while their role in flood control receives much less attention. The question therefore deserves serious consideration. Could restoring lost reservoir capacity through desilting help improve our ability to manage extreme rainfall and reduce flood risks?
Desilting our reservoirs should be considered a national priority.
Features
Losing out to Ethiopia
Export diversification – Missing the wood for the trees – Part III
by Gomi Senadhira
In Sri Lanka, the word “Ethiopia” is often used as disparaging slang to describe individuals or areas experiencing extreme poverty, starvation, or severe economic hardship. This linguistic habit originated in the 1980s with the Western media coverage of the devastating Ethiopian famine of 1983-85. That media coverage shocked the world but also left an outdated and offensive global stereotype that the country is permanently starving. Much has changed since then. By now, with an annual growth rate of around 9%, it is the fastest-growing economy in sub-Saharan Africa. Ethiopia has also emerged as a highly competitive exporter and is challenging not only its competitors in the region but also countries like Sri Lanka. This article is on how Sri Lanka has lost ground to Ethiopia (and a few other countries) in the GCC markets for agricultural and floricultural products.
Sri Lanka – A Pioneer in the Agriculture and Floricultural Market in the GCC
As discussed in Part II of this article, by the mid-1980s Sri Lanka had established a strong foothold in the GCC’s fruit, vegetable, and floricultural market. Geographical proximity and well-established shipping and air links gave Sri Lanka a strong comparative advantage over Southeast Asian and African nations. Thailand, Vietnam, and Kenya were not even in the market. At that time, Ethiopia was experiencing (as BBC news reports described) “a biblical famine”.
The market was not very large, but it was lucrative and growing. Trade Minister Lalith Athulathmudali as well as the Chairman of the Export Development Board, Victor Santiapillai, who visited Kuwait (and the GCC countries), recognised the market potential for these products and encouraged us to continue with our work. The minister was particularly keen to further develop links between the market for these products, exporters, and his Export Production Villages (EPVs). So, it was becoming a successful case not only for export diversification but also for transferring gains from exports directly to rural households.
From Trailblazer to Tailender
As a result, even by the beginning of this century Sri Lanka had a larger market share than most of its competitors from Asia or Africa. But since then, our competitiveness has weakened significantly. The tables below provide a comparative snapshot of Sri Lanka’s performance vis-à-vis Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya and Ethiopia in the GCC market for vegetables, fruits and floricultural products. As illustrated therein, in 2001 Sri Lanka was ahead of Thailand, Kenya and Ethiopia in this small but rapidly growing market. Since then, we have fallen behind Thailand, Kenya and many other countries in that lucrative market. If this trend continues, Sri Lanka will fall behind Ethiopia within the next few years. (See Table 1)
In the GCC market for vegetables (covered in HS chapter 07), Sri Lanka was ahead of most other competitors in 2001. As illustrated in Table 1 , Sri Lanka had failed to develop this market, while Thailand, Kenya, and even Ethiopia had very efficiently increased their market shares. The GCC is a market to which Sri Lanka can supply some vegetables, like cabbages, by sea. It appears Sri Lanka had also failed to exploit this mode of supply.
We can see a similar trend in the market for fruits. Vietnam, Kenya, and Thailand have emerged as major players, while exports from Sri Lanka have staggered on slowly. In this segment, Vietnam has emerged as a leading player during the last twenty years and the GCC imports from Viet Nam have shot up from US$44 thousand in 2001 to US$346 million by 2024. In part one of these articles, I discussed the remarkable increase of jackfruit exports from Vietnam “…just $3 million in 2015 to an impressive $236.8 million in 2023” while most of our jackfruit production rots under the trees. This explains how countries develop their markets, geographically and product-wise. (See Table 2)
Sri Lanka’s performance has been weakest in the market for floricultural products (HS Chapter 06), which groups live trees, cut flowers, and ornamental foliage. When we first entered the market in the 1980s, the market was dominated by the Netherlands, and Kenya and Ethiopia were not even in the market. At that time, we identified the Gulf states as a market where Sri Lanka could have a dominant presence due to geographical proximity. Even in 2001, Sri Lanka was ahead of Kenya, Ethiopia, and Thailand. But by now, Kenya has emerged as the dominant supplier. Ethiopia is also expanding its market share and is the third-largest exporter. (See Table 3)
Missing the Wood for the Trees
In the mid-1980s, Sri Lanka first established its foothold in the GCC market. Since then, Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya, and even Ethiopia have moved well ahead of us and have become leading players. Why did we lag behind in our export diversification efforts in general and, more particularly, in the GCC market?
The reasons are very clear. After the initial attempts in the 1980s and early 1990s, Sri Lanka has not been proactively involved in identifying, developing, and promoting new products and markets, or protecting and further developing new markets already established. The focus has simply been on traditional exports: tea, coconut, cinnamon, and garments, while other products were almost ignored. In essence, we have been and continue to focus intensely on a narrow group of products and markets, and we have lost sight of the bigger picture.
(The writer can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)
-
News6 days agoNamal remanded until Sept. 18 over Airbus deal investigation
-
Latest News5 days agoTharanga creates history with Diamond League crown in Brussels
-
News5 days agoDispute which triggered listed company director being detained at BIA resolved
-
Features4 days agoAfter the parade: What a traffic OIC’s walk-out tells us
-
Editorial6 days agoPower vs Equality
-
Editorial4 days agoArrests as theatre
-
Latest News4 days agoHarshitha’s composed knock seals Sri Lanka’s semi-final berth
-
Latest News7 days agoSLPP MP Namal Rajapaksa arrested by CIABOC







