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Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train journey

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2 years ago

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By Zinara Rathnayake

The Colombo to Badulla railway is so enchantingly beautiful that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

I was woken by the long, forlorn sound of the siren. The brakes hissed and screeched as our train chugged up the hill and pulled into Radella, a station along one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world: the Colombo to Badulla railway.

“The journey is so enthralling that you don’t want to take your head out of the window,” said Dayawathie Ekanayake, who has travelled extensively by train across the island during her career as a finance consultant. “It makes you feel constantly in awe. You wonder about what comes next – is it a waterfall? A stupa-like tea garden? Or is it mist-clouded peaks? You never know. You just have to keep looking.”

Since my first journey along this route seven years ago, I have returned numerous times, eagerly jumping off the train to explore towns and hamlets flanked by tea estates. The 291km track takes in a mix of deep gorges, craggy cliffs, cascading falls, lakes and rivers from Sri Lanka’s west coast into its mountainous interior. It twists and turns through 46 tunnels, snaking past high montane canopy with bright red rhododendrons and wild ferns, a fragment of the native hill country forest cover left untouched by British colonisers. On a bright day, sun-drenched hills stretch down to the glistening southern coastline from the train window as far as the eye can see.

This slow, 10-hour long journey might be inconvenient for the modern-day traveller, but it’s so enchantingly scenic that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

It’s not just the views that has travellers in awe. The train journey itself has become an Instagram sensation in recent years, with travel bloggers risking their lives to take photos of themselves hanging off the door as the train rumbles past rickety bridges (some of them have been criticized for their dramatic poses). Yet, the journey is also tied to Sri Lanka’s colonial history and gives passengers a deeper understanding of the island-nation.

During British colonization in the 19th Century, Sri Lanka was the third-largest coffee exporter in the world. As demand rose, it became expensive to ferry coffee on bullock carts from the central mountains to Colombo for shipment, especially with road conditions deteriorating during the monsoon months. Estates had to therefore store their coffee for long periods of time, causing the quality and value to deteriorate. So British estate owners pushed for a rail system to transport coffee. In 1867, the British completed a railway from the city of Kandy in central Sri Lanka to the coastal city of Colombo.

“The British didn’t build railways to help locals travel,” explained Sanka Abeysinghe, naturalist at the luxury boutique hotel chain Teardrop Hotels, who also conducts railway hikes for resort guests. “They designed railways to transport estate produce.”

I boarded the train in Colombo, leaving the muggy heat and low country farmlands to slowly ascend towards the Rocky Mountains surrounding Kandy. Cutting through rugged terrain, the train climbed 426m over a 21km stretch, passing through 12 tunnels, hugging treacherous curves along the mountains and soaring above thick tropical jungle.

After leaving Kandy, we passed fertile riverine valleys, and entered Sri Lanka’s hill country.

Tea flourishes in these damp, wet highlands, so, “when tea became prominent, after the coffee rust epidemic – a fungi disease that hindered the coffee trade [in 1869] – the British wanted to extend the railways to transport tea from the mountains to Colombo,” Abeysinghe explained.

In the 1870s, the British began to expand the railway from Peradeniya, a railway junction near Kandy, extending the route to the terminal station Badulla in 1924. This 178km-long stretch involved navigating through rainy, forested mountains, steep ridges and a series of sharp twists and turns by building an impressive mix of bridges, viaducts, tunnels and embankments. It took 52 years to complete.

We pushed out of the mountains, and over the next three hours we passed small and well-kept British-era railway stations like Galboda and Watawala, which were built solely for the purpose of transporting tea from each estate. We sluggishly ascended past Hindu temples tucked in tea gardens, small housing settlements where the tea estate laborers live, and turpentine forests shrouded in swirling mist. Sometime after leaving Hatton – the gateway town to Adam’s Peak, a holy mountain for pilgrims of all faiths – we entered the Poolbank Tunnel, the longest of the 46 tunnels at more than half a kilometre in length. “You cannot really see the light at the end of the tunnel here,” chuckled Abyesinghe.

From here, young passengers eagerly hung from the door to see the gushing cascades of the spectacular St Clair’s Falls through tea bushes. Cold air drifted in from the open windows and rising mist cloaked the towering Great Western mountain range. Many passengers got off the train at Nanu Oya, a tea-country town where visitors can tour the plantations and learn about the history of tea on the island; but I stayed on board, climbing up to Pattipola, the highest broad gauge railway station in the world.

From here, we finally left the cold central hills, travelling past dairy farms towards the sun-drenched south-eastern mountains.

A couple of hours later, we pulled in at Ella. Over the last decade, this once-sleepy village has turned into a lively tourist hub with cafes and bars lining the streets and people posing for photos in front of the picturesque Nine Arch Bridge, a viaduct with nine arches that soars over tropical jungles of plantain trees and arecanut palms and has become one of the most photographed spots on the island.

Flanked by thick jungle and tea plantations, the bridge was designed by British engineer Harold Marwood, but according to folklore, it never would have been built were it not for local knowledge.

It’s said that during World War One, when it was difficult to source steel from Europe, British engineers had to rethink the bridge design. Since colonial rulers had little to no knowledge about local construction materials, a Sri Lankan builder chipped in to help. Locals completed the engineering marvel using only bricks, stone and cement.

Looking out of the train window, I gazed at the 90m-long viaduct rising through the trees, connecting Ella to the highland town of Demodara. The British also needed a way to manage the steep incline of the terrain from here. “The climb was too abrupt to handle for the engines,” Abeysinghe said.

Again, folklore gives credit to locals who found a way to solve the problem by creating a spiralling track. As we reached Demodara Loop, the train halted at Demodara for passengers to deboard, snaked around a hillock and re-appeared from a 134m-long tunnel right beneath the station.

According to legend, local engineer DW Wimalasurendra worked at the site and thought of this spiral design after seeing a kankami (a tea estate worker who manages South Indian labourers) tying and re-tying his turban. The cutting-edge engineering allowed the train to avoid the steep climb.

We were nearing the end of the journey, and the train slowly descended to the sleepy, terracotta-roofed town of Hali Ela to terminate at the city of Badulla in the lower central hills.

As we pulled into the station, I realized that despite having travelled extensively around the world, I’ve often felt happiest during this slow journey through my own country. In many ways, as the train snakes past the century-old tea bushes, British stations and settlements of tea-estate communities, it quietly reveals the story of an island to those willing to put down their phones and look for it. (BBC)


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The last kings of the wilderness: vanishing tuskers

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2 days ago

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2026/05/24

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In the vast dry-zone wilderness of Sri Lanka, where ancient reservoirs mirror crimson sunsets and monsoon winds whisper through forests untouched for centuries, there still roams a giant who has become both legend and symbol.

His name is Mahasen — perhaps the most celebrated wild tusker Sri Lanka has ever known.

To wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, researchers, and villagers across the North Central Province, Mahasen is not merely an elephant. He is the living embodiment of Sri Lanka’s ancient wilderness, a reminder of a time when giant tuskers ruled the forests that surrounded the island’s great hydraulic civilisation.

Secretary and Chief Coordinator of Wild Tuskers of Sri Lanka, Chandika Lakmal, describes Mahasen as “one of the greatest living treasures of Sri Lanka’s natural heritage.”

“When people see Mahasen, they are not simply looking at a wild elephant,” he said.

“They are witnessing history, culture, ecology, and wilderness all combined into one magnificent animal. Tuskers like Mahasen are extremely rare, and losing such an elephant would mean losing a part of Sri Lanka’s identity itself.”

Sri Lanka has long shared a sacred bond with elephants. Ancient kings regarded tuskers as symbols of sovereignty and divine authority.

From the kingdoms of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa to the Kandyan era, elephants marched beside rulers during ceremonies and wars alike. Within Buddhist culture, elephants became revered symbols of strength, wisdom, and spiritual purity.

Yet among all elephants, the tusker has always occupied a special place.

Unlike African elephants, only a very small percentage of male Asian elephants develop tusks. This makes Sri Lankan tuskers exceptionally rare. Over centuries, they became deeply embedded in folklore, temple art, and village legends.

Mahasen stands today as perhaps the finest surviving example of that ancient legacy.

Mahasen, one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic wild tuskers, photographed during his majestic prime in 2014 and in 2025 as the ageing giant continues his struggle for survival in the island’s shrinking wilderness

The legendary tusker was first photographed in 2002 by renowned wildlife photographer Vajira Wijegunawardena. During those early years, wildlife enthusiasts referred to him as the “Somawathiya Tusker” because he was frequently sighted around the floodplains near Somawathiya before travelling towards Minneriya and Kaudulla during the season of the great elephant gathering.

Later, the giant elephant was named Mahasen in honour of the ancient King Mahasen, the visionary ruler who built the magnificent Minneriya Tank. The name reflected not only strength and majesty, but also a deep connection to the same historic landscape shaped by kings, forests, and elephants thousands of years ago.

Today, Mahasen is believed to be around 60 years old, making him one of the oldest surviving wild tuskers in Sri Lanka. Towering above most elephants, he possesses perhaps the largest pair of tusks ever documented among Sri Lanka’s wild elephants, stretching beyond six feet in length.

For decades, Mahasen became one of the greatest attractions of the famous elephant gathering at Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park — one of the largest congregations of Asian elephants anywhere in the world.

Photographers from across the globe waited patiently for hours hoping to capture the old king emerging from the dusty grasslands, at dusk, his enormous tusks glowing beneath the golden evening light. For many wildlife lovers, witnessing Mahasen in the wild became an unforgettable experience.

“Mahasen carries an extraordinary presence,” Chandika Lakmal explained. “Even among large elephants, he stands apart. There is a certain calmness, confidence, and dignity in the way he moves. You immediately understand why ancient people considered tuskers sacred.”

Yet beyond his beauty and fame, Mahasen also represents the fragile future of Sri Lanka’s elephants.

Modern conservation science identifies elephants as “keystone species” and “umbrella species,” meaning their survival protects entire ecosystems. Elephants create pathways through forests, disperse seeds, maintain grasslands, and help sustain biodiversity across vast landscapes.

“Elephants are ecosystem engineers,” Chandika Lakmal said. “The forest itself depends on them. Without elephants, the structure of these ecosystems begins to change. Protecting tuskers, like Mahasen, means protecting entire habitats and countless other species.”

Sadly, Sri Lanka’s wild elephants now face mounting threats.

Habitat fragmentation, shrinking forests, electric fences, roads, railway accidents, illegal shootings, and human-elephant conflict continue to endanger their survival.

Nearly 60 percent of Sri Lanka’s wild elephants live outside protected national parks, surviving within fragmented forests and ancient tank ecosystems increasingly surrounded by human settlements.

Traditional elephant migration corridors that existed for centuries have now been blocked by agriculture and development projects. As elephants lose access to food and water, they are increasingly forced into villages and farmlands, creating dangerous encounters between humans and wildlife.

Even Mahasen has not escaped these pressures.

In recent years, the ageing tusker’s movements have become increasingly restricted. Wildlife observers believe the enormous weight of his tusks, combined with old age, has forced him into smaller forest patches between Kakirawa and Maradankadawala where food and water are available within shorter distances.

Several months ago, Mahasen was discovered with a serious wound on his back believed to have been caused either by a gunshot injury or a clash with another elephant. Wildlife officials intervened quickly and treated the giant tusker, offering hope that he would recover once again.

However, concern continues to grow among conservationists and wildlife enthusiasts as sightings of Mahasen have become increasingly rare in recent months.

For many Sri Lankans, the thought of losing Mahasen is deeply emotional.

“Mahasen is not just another elephant,” Chandika Lakmal said quietly. “He is one of the last living symbols of Sri Lanka’s ancient wilderness. Future generations deserve the chance to see such animals alive in our forests, not only in photographs or history books.”

Despite his immense ecological and cultural importance, many villagers living near elephant habitats still struggle with fear and economic hardship caused by crop raids and property damage.

Conservationists stress that long-term coexistence can only be achieved through proper land-use planning, protection of elephant corridors, community awareness, and sustainable conservation policies.

Across the forests of Yala National Park, Wilpattu National Park, Gal Oya National Park, and Wasgamuwa National Park, Sri Lanka’s remaining tuskers continue their silent struggle against an uncertain future.

But among them all, Mahasen remains special.

He is more than an old tusker wandering through fading forests.

He is the last king of a vanishing wilderness.

And as long as Mahasen still walks beneath the ancient trees of Sri Lanka’s dry zone, the spirit of the island’s wild heritage continues to survive majestic, untamed, and unforgettable.

By Ifham Nizam

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Stars shine bright

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2 days ago

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2026/05/24

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Leading figures from the industry graced the ‘Tharulya’ Muhurat ceremony

An auspicious beginning for ‘Tharulya’

The Muhurath ceremony of ‘Tharulya’ the newest teledrama directed by Sudarma Jayewardena, was held in a graceful setting at Waters Edge recently, bringing together artistes, television personalities and invited guests from the entertainment industry.

The auspicious occasion marked the official beginning of the much-awarded teleseries, with the lighting of the traditional oil lamp adding colour and glamour to the evening.

Cast members and crew joined Sudarma in celebrating the launch while industry well-wishers extended their support for the production.

Sudarma is known for her emotionally rich story telling and distinctive creative touch. When asked about her new tele-serial, she expressed optimism ‘Tharulya’ is expected to bring a fresh narrative to the local television audiences. For her ‘Tharulya’ can be described as a reflection of dreams, emotions and human relationships, woven into meaningful teledrama narratives. The word ‘Tharulya’ evokes a poetic sense of stars, hope and destiny, symbolising the journeys and emotional bonds explored through the story.

Sudarma Jayewardena is known for her work as a actress, director, producer and creative visionary behind several acclaimed teledramas. Over the years she has build a reputation for presenting emotionally layered stories that explore family dynamics, social realities, women’s experiences and human relationships with sensitivity and depth .

Her teledramas are known for strong story telling, refined casting and cinematic production.

The teledrama, ‘Ganga Adare’, directed by Sudarma, is among the well known television production.

This tele-series became popular on the small screen for its emotional story telling, strong character development and family centred narrative style that resonated with Sinhala TV audiences.

Sudarma’s involvement in musical events, like ‘Sonu Nigam,’ highlighted her versatility beyond teledramas, showcasing her ability to create large scale entertainment events that combined glamour, culture and audience appeal.

Sudharma, who is no stranger in the entertainment industry, is the Managing Director of Star Events. ‘Tharulya’ was produced by Saranga Mendis. This much talked about teleserial is all set to unspool on Derena TV.

Beyond teledramas , Sudarma also contributed to musical and entertainment programmes, expanding her influence within Sri Lanka’s media industry. Her productions are often noted for their polished presentation and emotional story telling. (Zanita) Pix by Thushara Attapathu

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Sri Lanka and Viet Nam soar into a new era of co-operation

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2 days ago

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2026/05/24

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Landmark visit celebrating diplomacy, connectivity and growing economic partnerships

Air Bridge of Friendship


The state visit of the Party Secretary and State President, To Lam of Viet Nam, to Sri Lanka, heralds a defining moment in bilateral relations, where diplomacy and aviation converge in a new era of connectivity. With the launch of Viet Nam air services, linking the two nations, the partnership soars behind traditional statecraft -opening a seamless corridors for tourism, trade and cultural exchange between South and South East Asia.

My interview with the Ambassador for Viet Nam in Sri Lanka, Trinh Thi Tam, went as follows:

(Q) How significant is the State visit to Sri Lanka by Party General Secretary and State President To Lam?

(A)Party General Secretary and State President To Lam’s visit to Sri Lanka is highly significant as it takes place when the two countries have just celebrated 55 years of diplomatic relations in 2025. Viet Nam is the first ASEAN members to visit Sri Lanka, and is also the first ASEAN country that President Anura Kumara Dissanayake visited after assuming office. More, importantly, both sides agreed to elevate bilateral ties to a Comprehensive Partnership on this occasion, opening a new chapter for cooperation in politics, trade, tourism, culture, education, and connectivity. The visit reflects the strong mutual trust and the shared determination to deepen cooperation in the years ahead.

(Q) Viet Nam and Sri Lanka share centuries old Buddhist links. How can these spiritual and cultural ties be transformed into stronger people-to-people tourism?

(A) Viet Nam and Sri Lanka share centuries-old Buddhist and cultural links, which create a very strong foundation for closer people-to-people relations. These spiritual ties can be transformed into stronger tourism cooperation through Buddhist pilgrimage tours, exchanges between temples and universities, cultural festivals, and tourism promotion programmes. Increased air connectivity and easier travel arrangements will also encourage more visitors to explore each other’s cultural heritage and strengthen mutual understanding between the two peoples.

(Q) Direct flights between Colombo and Ho Chi Minh City has generated great excitement in Sri Lanka. How important is this milestone for tourism and bilateral relations?

Proud moment for Ambassador Trinh Thi Tam

(A) The launch of direct flights between Colombo and Ho Chi Minh City by Viet Nam Airlines (national carrier) and Viet Jet (a private airline) is a historic milestone for bilateral relations. It not only shortens travel time but also creates new opportunities for tourism, trade, investment, business cooperation as well as people-to-people and cultural exchange. This achievement comes at a very meaningful moment, following the establishment of the Comprehensive Partnership, demonstrating the commitment of both countries to enhance practical cooperation and strengthen connectivity between Southeast Asia and South Asia.

(Q) Do you think this direct flight will significantly increase Vietnamese tourist arrivals to Sri Lanka within the next few years?

(A) Yes, we believe the direct flights will significantly increase Vietnamese tourist arrivals to Sri Lanka over the next few years. Sri Lanka is becoming increasingly attractive to Vietnamese travellers because of its beautiful beaches, Buddhist heritage, natural landscapes, and hospitality. Easier connectivity and tourism promotion activities will help more Vietnamese people discover Sri Lanka. We also expect stronger two-way tourism exchanges, contributing positively to economic cooperation and people-to-people relations between the two countries.

(Q) Do you see Colombo becoming a stronger regional hub connecting Viet Nam with the Indian Ocean region?

(A) Colombo has great potential to become a stronger regional hub connecting Viet Nam with South Asia and the Indian Ocean region. Sri Lanka’s strategic geographic location, combined with improving connectivity and growing economic cooperation, can help facilitate trade, tourism, logistics, and maritime cooperation. Following the establishment of the Comprehensive Partnership, Viet Nam sees many opportunities to work more closely with Sri Lanka in regional connectivity initiatives and strengthen economic links between Southeast Asia and the Indian Ocean region.

(Q) Viet Nam and Sri Lanka have enjoyed decades of friendly relations. What makes this partnership unique in Asia?

Proud moment for Ambassador Trinh Thi Tam

Trinh Thi Tam played a key role in celebrating the historic visit

(A) The Viet Nam–Sri Lanka partnership has been built on longstanding friendship, mutual trust, and deep cultural connections rather than only economic interests. The two countries have consistently supported each other over many decades and share common values regarding independence, peace, and international cooperation. President Ho Chi Minh, Viet Nam’s Nation Father, stopped over in Sri Lanka on three occasions. Vietnamese people has always treasured the strong, unconditional support offered by Sri Lankan people during our hard struggle against imperialism and colonialism. The recent elevation of bilateral ties reflects the maturity of this relationship and the shared vision to expand cooperation across many sectors in a sustainable and balanced manner.

(Q) How does Viet Nam view Sri Lanka’s role with South Asia and the Indian Ocean together?

(A) Viet Nam highly values Sri Lanka’s important role in South Asia and the Indian Ocean region. Sri Lanka’s strategic location and historical role as a maritime and commercial centre make it an important partner for regional connectivity and economic cooperation. With Sri Lanka’s keen interest in engaging more with ASEAN (Regional Comprehensive Economic Parnership ) Viet Nam believes Sri Lanka can play an even stronger role in connecting South Asia and Southeast Asia, especially in trade, tourism, logistics and maritime cooperation.

(Q) How would you describe the current diplomatic relationship between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka after the Party General Secretary and State President’s visit?

(A) Following the visit, the diplomatic relationship between Viet Nam and Sri Lanka can be described as stronger, more dynamic, and more future-oriented. The establishment of the Comprehensive Partnership demonstrates the high level of political trust and creates a solid framework for expanding cooperation in many important sectors, including trade, investment, tourism, education, digital transformation, agriculture, and cultural exchanges between the two countries.

(Q) After the Party General Secretary and State President, what is your vision for Viet Nam-Sri Lanka relations over the next decade?

(A) Over the next decade, we hope Viet Nam–Sri Lanka relations will develop into a stronger, broader, and more practical partnership under the framework of the Comprehensive Partnership. We expect deeper cooperation in trade, tourism, connectivity, digital economy, education, renewable energy, agriculture, and maritime cooperation. At the same time, people-to-people exchanges and cultural cooperation will continue to grow, creating a solid foundation for long-term friendship and mutual prosperity between the two countries.

(Q) What message does Viet Nam wish to send to Sri Lanka and South Asian Region through the visit?

(A) Through the Party General Secretary and State President’s visits to India and Sri Lanka, Viet Nam wishes to send a strong message of friendship, cooperation, and shared development to Sri Lanka and the wider South Asian region. The visits demonstrates Viet Nam’s commitment to strengthening partnerships in South Asia and promoting peace, stability, connectivity, and economic cooperation in the Indo-Pacific region.

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