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Sri Lanka’s most beautiful train journey

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By Zinara Rathnayake

The Colombo to Badulla railway is so enchantingly beautiful that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

I was woken by the long, forlorn sound of the siren. The brakes hissed and screeched as our train chugged up the hill and pulled into Radella, a station along one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world: the Colombo to Badulla railway.

“The journey is so enthralling that you don’t want to take your head out of the window,” said Dayawathie Ekanayake, who has travelled extensively by train across the island during her career as a finance consultant. “It makes you feel constantly in awe. You wonder about what comes next – is it a waterfall? A stupa-like tea garden? Or is it mist-clouded peaks? You never know. You just have to keep looking.”

Since my first journey along this route seven years ago, I have returned numerous times, eagerly jumping off the train to explore towns and hamlets flanked by tea estates. The 291km track takes in a mix of deep gorges, craggy cliffs, cascading falls, lakes and rivers from Sri Lanka’s west coast into its mountainous interior. It twists and turns through 46 tunnels, snaking past high montane canopy with bright red rhododendrons and wild ferns, a fragment of the native hill country forest cover left untouched by British colonisers. On a bright day, sun-drenched hills stretch down to the glistening southern coastline from the train window as far as the eye can see.

This slow, 10-hour long journey might be inconvenient for the modern-day traveller, but it’s so enchantingly scenic that it’s become a bucket list adventure for many visitors.

It’s not just the views that has travellers in awe. The train journey itself has become an Instagram sensation in recent years, with travel bloggers risking their lives to take photos of themselves hanging off the door as the train rumbles past rickety bridges (some of them have been criticized for their dramatic poses). Yet, the journey is also tied to Sri Lanka’s colonial history and gives passengers a deeper understanding of the island-nation.

During British colonization in the 19th Century, Sri Lanka was the third-largest coffee exporter in the world. As demand rose, it became expensive to ferry coffee on bullock carts from the central mountains to Colombo for shipment, especially with road conditions deteriorating during the monsoon months. Estates had to therefore store their coffee for long periods of time, causing the quality and value to deteriorate. So British estate owners pushed for a rail system to transport coffee. In 1867, the British completed a railway from the city of Kandy in central Sri Lanka to the coastal city of Colombo.

“The British didn’t build railways to help locals travel,” explained Sanka Abeysinghe, naturalist at the luxury boutique hotel chain Teardrop Hotels, who also conducts railway hikes for resort guests. “They designed railways to transport estate produce.”

I boarded the train in Colombo, leaving the muggy heat and low country farmlands to slowly ascend towards the Rocky Mountains surrounding Kandy. Cutting through rugged terrain, the train climbed 426m over a 21km stretch, passing through 12 tunnels, hugging treacherous curves along the mountains and soaring above thick tropical jungle.

After leaving Kandy, we passed fertile riverine valleys, and entered Sri Lanka’s hill country.

Tea flourishes in these damp, wet highlands, so, “when tea became prominent, after the coffee rust epidemic – a fungi disease that hindered the coffee trade [in 1869] – the British wanted to extend the railways to transport tea from the mountains to Colombo,” Abeysinghe explained.

In the 1870s, the British began to expand the railway from Peradeniya, a railway junction near Kandy, extending the route to the terminal station Badulla in 1924. This 178km-long stretch involved navigating through rainy, forested mountains, steep ridges and a series of sharp twists and turns by building an impressive mix of bridges, viaducts, tunnels and embankments. It took 52 years to complete.

We pushed out of the mountains, and over the next three hours we passed small and well-kept British-era railway stations like Galboda and Watawala, which were built solely for the purpose of transporting tea from each estate. We sluggishly ascended past Hindu temples tucked in tea gardens, small housing settlements where the tea estate laborers live, and turpentine forests shrouded in swirling mist. Sometime after leaving Hatton – the gateway town to Adam’s Peak, a holy mountain for pilgrims of all faiths – we entered the Poolbank Tunnel, the longest of the 46 tunnels at more than half a kilometre in length. “You cannot really see the light at the end of the tunnel here,” chuckled Abyesinghe.

From here, young passengers eagerly hung from the door to see the gushing cascades of the spectacular St Clair’s Falls through tea bushes. Cold air drifted in from the open windows and rising mist cloaked the towering Great Western mountain range. Many passengers got off the train at Nanu Oya, a tea-country town where visitors can tour the plantations and learn about the history of tea on the island; but I stayed on board, climbing up to Pattipola, the highest broad gauge railway station in the world.

From here, we finally left the cold central hills, travelling past dairy farms towards the sun-drenched south-eastern mountains.

A couple of hours later, we pulled in at Ella. Over the last decade, this once-sleepy village has turned into a lively tourist hub with cafes and bars lining the streets and people posing for photos in front of the picturesque Nine Arch Bridge, a viaduct with nine arches that soars over tropical jungles of plantain trees and arecanut palms and has become one of the most photographed spots on the island.

Flanked by thick jungle and tea plantations, the bridge was designed by British engineer Harold Marwood, but according to folklore, it never would have been built were it not for local knowledge.

It’s said that during World War One, when it was difficult to source steel from Europe, British engineers had to rethink the bridge design. Since colonial rulers had little to no knowledge about local construction materials, a Sri Lankan builder chipped in to help. Locals completed the engineering marvel using only bricks, stone and cement.

Looking out of the train window, I gazed at the 90m-long viaduct rising through the trees, connecting Ella to the highland town of Demodara. The British also needed a way to manage the steep incline of the terrain from here. “The climb was too abrupt to handle for the engines,” Abeysinghe said.

Again, folklore gives credit to locals who found a way to solve the problem by creating a spiralling track. As we reached Demodara Loop, the train halted at Demodara for passengers to deboard, snaked around a hillock and re-appeared from a 134m-long tunnel right beneath the station.

According to legend, local engineer DW Wimalasurendra worked at the site and thought of this spiral design after seeing a kankami (a tea estate worker who manages South Indian labourers) tying and re-tying his turban. The cutting-edge engineering allowed the train to avoid the steep climb.

We were nearing the end of the journey, and the train slowly descended to the sleepy, terracotta-roofed town of Hali Ela to terminate at the city of Badulla in the lower central hills.

As we pulled into the station, I realized that despite having travelled extensively around the world, I’ve often felt happiest during this slow journey through my own country. In many ways, as the train snakes past the century-old tea bushes, British stations and settlements of tea-estate communities, it quietly reveals the story of an island to those willing to put down their phones and look for it. (BBC)



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Life style

Blending additional warmth to festive v season

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Pegasus Reef Hotel brought a refreshing twist to the festive season with its much awaited ‘Tropical Christmas’ themed holiday activities by lighting the Christmas Tree and welcoming Santa to the tropics a press release said. The celebrations provided a unique and joyful experience for the whole family, blending the traditional warmth of the festive season with the vibrancy of a tropical setting. The beautifully lit tropical Christmas tree set the tone for both an unforgettable evening and a magical holiday season for all. Guests enjoyed a host of activities including interactive elements for children, including surprise Christmas gifts and photo opportunities with Santa said the release.

The centre piece of the festivities was Santa who made a grand entrance to the event having escaped the cold of the North Pole, to spread the joys of Christmas to young and old in a warm tropical setting. This added to the ambience and brought out that true festive spirit. Tropical-inspired cocktails were available along with delicious food to offer additional flavour to the celebrations.

Commenting on the celebrations, Renuke Coswatte, General Manager of Pegasus Reef Hotel said, “Our Christmas celebrations have always been highly anticipated and has set the tone for the season. This year, by giving festive traditions a tropical twist, we were able to provide our guests, their friends and families a truly unforgettable start to the holiday season. From ‘Santa’s Welcome Party’ coupled with the ‘Tropical Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony’ and with what we have in store in December, the celebrations will truly be unforgettable.”

Pegasus Reef Hotel has garnered a reputation for hosting exciting festive events over the years, making it a top choice for year-end parties for all. So much so, that the hotels Christmas festivities are eagerly anticipated throughout the year. This year’s ‘Tropical Christmas’ celebration was an ideal opportunity for families, couples and friends to celebrate the season in a warm and inviting setting, that features activities for all.

Lighting of the Christmas Tree and Santa’s welcome party brought the magic of ‘Tropical Christmas’ to life blending traditional holiday festivities added with tropical charm. Pegasus Reef Hotel warmly invites everyone to join in the upcoming seasonal celebrations and create cherished family memories that will last a lifetime.

For more information on future events, contact Pegasus Reef Hotel on 0112049600, follow them on social media at facebook.com/Pegasusreefwattala or www.instagram.com/pegasusreef_wattala and visit their website at www.pegasusreefhotel.com.

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Life style

Tis the season to sparkle and shine

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This festive season, step into a world of allure at Taj Samudra Colombo, where the spirit of Christmas is brought to life with joy, celebration, and heartwarming experiences said a press release.In the words of Kris Kringle from A Miracle on 34th Street, “Christmas isn’t just a day; it’s a frame of mind.” At Taj Samudra, we embrace this philosophy with a delightful array of offerings designed to spread joy and festive cheer to our guests throughout the season said the release.

From gourmet hampers to festive family dinners, the Christmas carvery market, and the iconic Christmas goodies hut, our kitchen team has created a magical atmosphere for guests to enjoy, share, and celebrate this season of giving.

Luxury Seasonal Hampers and Wine

This Christmas, Taj Samudra offers the ultimate luxury gift experience with customized seasonal hampers. Choose from a selection of premium wines, Champagne, sparkling wines, and exclusive beverages, along with Christmas cakes, puddings, festival chocolates, cheese, seasonal cookies, and more. Curated to perfection, these hampers are the ideal way to indulge your loved ones with festive joy.

Christmas Carvery Counter

Indulge in the flavors of the season at our Christmas Carvery Counter, featuring a homemade charcuterie station brimming with delicious offerings. Enjoy lamb salami, beef salami, smoked lamb, honey ham, chicken cold cut, smoked seer, chicken liver pate and a variety of other delectable treats, perfect for gathering and sharing with friends and family.

Christmas goodies hut at the lobby

Visit the delightful Christmas goodies hut in our lobby, a stunning display of handpicked seasonal treats created by our award-winning chefs. The Goodies Hut, open daily from 10:00 am to 9.00 pm, offers an array of beautifully decorated seasonal goodies and carefully selected gift items—ideal for gifting or enjoying yourself.

Christmas eve celebrations

On the eve of Christmas, join us for a traditional Christmas eve dinner buffet at Ports of Call, where festive delicacies, live action stations, and mouthwatering desserts await. Santa will make a special appearance to delight the young and the young-at-heart. Additionally, enjoy a festive à la carte lunch and dinner at Golden Dragon, Navratna, and YUMI, our stylish Japanese resto-bar.

Christmas Day Festivities

Celebrate Christmas Day with a traditional festive lunch at Ports of Call, featuring all-time favorites such as succulent turkey and a wide selection of Christmas specialties. Our Executive Chef Sajesh Nair and his kitchen brigade will craft the perfect Christmas spread to satisfy every craving.

The said experience an unforgettable musical evening with The Traveleer Sound Duo from Budapest

The release said The lattice lobby lounge for an unforgettable musical experience with The Traveler Sound Duo from Budapest, Hungary. Known for their captivating performances, this talented duo brings a diverse repertoire that spans pop, rock, jazz, and more, offering something for every music lover. Catch them live every Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 10:30 pm and enjoy their soulful melodies and dynamic sound in the heart of our vibrant atmosphere. They will also be performing during our renowned Sunday Brunch at Ports of Call, adding the perfect soundtrack to your delightful dining experience.

Unwind and Celebrate at YUMI Japanese Resto Bar and Poolside – Daily Happy Hour from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm

This holiday season, experience the magic of Christmas at Taj Samudra Colombo, where every corner of the hotel radiates the joy and warmth of the festive season.

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Fashion

Hot Red looks for Christmas

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Christmas is here and we are eager to begin the celebrations. Everything about December is breathtaking and spectacular, with the rapid shift in the weather and the increasing camaraderie. The cherry on top is the excitement of the New Year itself! The joyous month of the New Year and Christmas is filled with delicious delicacies, elegant decorations, lovely attire, and joyful vibes everywhere. Dressing up for Christmas in warm and fashionable red outfits is something we all love. However, if you are still confused about your Christmas attire, don’t worry, we are here to rescue you. When it comes to fashion and style, no one can do it better than our Bollywood queens. Here are some red-hot looks from our fav Bollywood divas to inspire your Christmas outfits.

Kiara Advani is a true fashionista who can pull off any look. While co-ord sets are among the season’s hottest fashions. In a red-coordinated ensemble, Kiara is offering fashion advice to everyone. Her ensemble is the ultimate Christmas attire since it perfectly combines sexiness and elegance. She is wearing a bustier crop top and a high-rise skirt that accentuate her physique. Bronze bangles and earrings completed Kiara Advani’s outfit as accessories. With this attire, you’ll definitely steal the show.

Huma’s red formal outfit serves as the ideal Christmas dress inspiration for you if you are not a fan of fancy attire and prefer a sleek and refined look. Whether it’s a casual gathering or a formal function, pantsuits look great on any occasion. In addition to being fashionable, it will also keep you warm. She looks great with a full-sleeved crimson jacket with a wide horizontal white stripe at the bust and straight-fit ankle leggings. For the best appearance, pair it with stud earrings and minimal makeup. Sara is a diva and she is slaying fashion goals in her little red dress with white frills.

If you wish to grab all the attention at the Christmas party then take cues from Sara and choose a red hot bodycon thigh-high slit little dress. Pair it up with a matching red jacket for the glam look and you will be ready to rock the Christmas party.

Among all the divas, Rakul Preet Singh is one of the most fashionable. The actress always dresses well, whether it’s in a gorgeous gown, party attire, or just something that’s too ethnic. Her red corset-style dress is stunning and a must-have for your Christmas wardrobe. It has an off-the-shoulder design, full sleeves, and a fitting nature. To get the glam look, wear it with pointed shoes and diamond drop earrings.

Talking about fashion and style and not mentioning Deepika Padukone is not fair. The queen of Bollywood looks amazing no matter what she wears. If you are tired of wearing dresses and gowns and want to try something different, her vibrant red power suit that exudes boss-woman energy is the ideal outfit inspiration. Her quirky bralette, which had a crisscross neckline, was polished off with a layer of preppy flair thanks to the oversized blazer’s design.

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