Life style

In Sri Lanka . Lamprais keeps the Dutch Burgher legacy alive

Published

1 year ago

2023/10/29

by Zinara Ratnayake

It’s Lansi food,” Stephanie Herft begins to describe lamprais. Herft is the founder of Lansi’s, a home-based food delivery business that began in May 2019, in Colombo. I’m talking to Herft over the phone on a Sunday evening. She had just delivered a carton of lamprais, a Sunday afternoon staple at Lansi homes in Sri Lanka.

Every Sunday, Herft’s extended Lansi family gathers at her aunt Jennie’s house in suburban Colombo for an afternoon feast. Like most good things, preparing lamprais involves love and labor. It includes cooking rice in meat stock and making a special curry with a finely diced meat mix: chicken, beef, pork and mutton. There are several other condiments.

“It’s family work,” Herft chuckles.

On many afternoons, Herft would slice onions, while her aunt would prepare the rice, and others were busy with condiments. Together, they perfected the recipe of Herft’s great great grandmother.

“We sold Christmas cake, cards and lamprais every year at a small stall at the church fair,” Herft says, recalling the Christmas days. Her grandparents played Jim Reeves vinyl records on their old rickety record player whilst the extended family prepared lamprais and sipped on king coconut wine. “I remember the smell of lamprais wafting through our living room,” she says.

It was this smell that once charmed me at the VOC cafe at the Dutch Burgher Union (DBU) in Colombo. The waitstaff served me lamprais, a small parcel of food wrapped in a banana leaf, baked and nicely warm.

Like Herft says, lamprais is a fading culinary creation of the Lansis — or, the Dutch Burghers, an ethnic minority in Sri Lanka. This small packet of food itself is a vague reminder of colonial history, and a nod to the existence of the fast disappearing Dutch Burgher community in the island.

From the 15th century, Dutch ships sailed across Asia with merchants from Northern Europe. These merchants from Holland, France, Germany, Switzerland, England and other European nations belonged to the newly emerging middle class. Many of them joined Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie (VOC), or the Dutch East India Company founded in 1602. Their headquarters were in Batavia, present-day Indonesian capital Jakarta.

During this time, the Portuguese, who entered Sri Lanka in 1597, ruled over the low country coastal belt. They controlled the island’s rich spice trade. In 1658, Dutch took over the Portuguese to rule maritime Sri Lanka, then Ceylon, until the British arrival in 1796. Many of these Northern European merchants settled down in Sri Lanka and married people of Portuguese and local origin. This new social group of European descendants came to be identified as Burghers (this German-originated term translates to residents of a city). In Sinhala, the commonly used language in Sri Lanka, they were called Lansi, a term derived from Dutch Hollandsche, meaning inhabitant of Holland. From this socio -cultural concoction birthed the lamprais.

The word lamprias comes from the Dutch word lomprijst, which loosely translates to, a packet of food. In her book A Taste of Sugar & Spice: Cuisine of the Dutch Burgher Huisvrouw in Olde Ceylon, author Deloraine Brohier writes that lamprais was not European in origin, rather an improvisation of the Burghers, pairing the Asian staple rice and spices.

“Not to mention the plantain leaves in which they are packed which again are of tropical provenance,” writes Brohier. A common belief is that lamprais has roots to the Indonesian dish lemper, sticky rice sandwiched with a curried diced chicken mix that comes wrapped in a plantain leaf.

In traditional Burgher houses, preparing Sunday lamprais begins the previous night, with meat boiling for two hours and plantain leaves being cleaned. The next morning, women in the household begin their chores, adding curry leaves and pandan leaves to butter browning in a pot. Boiled rice goes into the frying mix, followed by the meat stock. A crushed mix of spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, lemongrass and peppercorns wrapped in a muslin cloth is placed in the pot, scenting and flavoring the rice as it cooks.

For one lamprais, a lump of boiled rice accompanies a dessert-spoonful of the mixed meat curry cooked with diced chicken, pork, beef and mutton. A traditional lamprais features exactly two frikkadels, meatballs spiced with finely chopped garlic and fresh green chillie.

There are condiments like blachang, dried prawn ground into a paste with pepper and garlic; seeni sambol, a caramelized onion accompaniment sprinkled with fish flakes. There is brinjal pahi, pickled eggplant with notes of sour-sweetness, and a vinegar-infused tang.

“Our family recipe also features an ash plantain curry,” Herft tells me, although it’s absent in most lamprais meals. All these ingredients sit neatly inside a banana leaf warmed over a fire to make it more supple. “It’s not bigger than your palm,” Herft says, referring to the size of the authentic lamprais, which bakes in an oven for more than 10 minutes until the aroma of the banana leaf seeps in.

But over the years, commercially made lamprais took many forms, adapting to the demands of the dominant Sinhalese culture of the country, and even going through gross misinterpretations. Even at the Dutch Burgher Union in Colombo now, the lamprais is a large packet of rice, as opposed to the handful of rice.

“It became very Sri Lankan,” says Rienzie Trek, food and beverage manager at the VOC cafe by DBU in Colombo, laughing as he talks to me about the history of the dish. “It was a snack in the past. When our ancestors tottered long journeys, they would carry a few packs of lamprais with them,” he says. “But now everyone eats it as a main meal.”

In Sri Lanka, influenced by the majority Sinhalese culture, rice is the centerpiece of every dining table. A popular phrase in Sinhala “udetath bath, dawaltath bath, retath bath,” meaning “rice for morning, afternoon and night,” suggests the island’s fondness in devouring rice for every meal.

Ancient farmer-families gathered energy for hard labor from their carb-heavy rice meals. With time, societies and economies changed with people shifting to desk jobs and the common use of machinery in agriculture. However, the carb-rich rice culture (which birthed to fuel energy for hard labor) continues even today.

“Customers complained that the quantity of rice in lamprias wasn’t enough,” says Prabhath Jayasekara, Head Chef at the VOC cafe. “So we had to increase the size of our lamprais.”

In many places, there’s a tendency to name any rice packet wrapped in banana leaf lamprais. When I last ate “lamprais,” at my university canteen, turmeric-coloured yellow rice accompanied a grilled chicken thigh instead of the curried meat mix. There was an egg, boiled and fried. Frikkadels were reduced to a cutlet—a deep-fried, breadcrumb-covered golden ball of potato and canned fish.

I talked to Herft about these misinterpretations, curious to know how Dutch Burghers felt.

“Someone called us to ask why we didn’t include an egg in our lamprais. My aunt Jennie spoke to them for 10 minutes, explaining that the authentic lamprais didn’t come with an egg,” she laughs.

Herft explains that culinary traditions transform, and everyone’s version of one’s food is different. “But our oldfolk are very protective of their traditions,” she says, “It’s fair because lamprais is the only popular dish that represents the Dutch Burghers. It is a symbol that we still exist.”

During the British colonial regime, many Dutch Burgher families adopted English as their mother tongue. English became a deciding tool for one’s status in society. It’s during these days that the Burghers rose as the new elite in the island, acquiring reputed administrative posts in British Ceylon as English speakers.

British left in 1948, and in 1956, the Sri Lankan government passed Sinhala Only Act, replacing English with Sinhala as the sole official language of the country. This turn of events threatened the socioc-cultural status of the Dutch Burghers. Many families fled Sri Lanka in the coming decades. In her book, Brohier notes that a census done in the 1940s revealed that 0.8 percent of the total population were Dutch Burghers, which was reduced to 0.2 percent in 1981. In her 2012 book, Brohier mentions that Burghers number to only 15,000-30,000 today in a total population of 21.67 million.

“I told Aunt Jennie that we should start selling our food,” Herft says. Their small business now employs single mothers, providing them an income in the pandemic when economies are halted. “It’s what our great great grandmother did. She was a philanthropist and someone who championed Dutch Burgher dishes. We are carrying her legacy forward,” she says.

The authentic lamprais disappears fast and wide, just like its creators, the Dutch Burghers from the island. The quest to save the lamprais is also a quest to reclaim the legacy of the Dutch Burghers.

BBC

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Life style

Blending additional warmth to festive v season

Published

6 days ago

2024/12/22

Thilina Walpola

Pegasus Reef Hotel brought a refreshing twist to the festive season with its much awaited ‘Tropical Christmas’ themed holiday activities by lighting the Christmas Tree and welcoming Santa to the tropics a press release said. The celebrations provided a unique and joyful experience for the whole family, blending the traditional warmth of the festive season with the vibrancy of a tropical setting. The beautifully lit tropical Christmas tree set the tone for both an unforgettable evening and a magical holiday season for all. Guests enjoyed a host of activities including interactive elements for children, including surprise Christmas gifts and photo opportunities with Santa said the release.

The centre piece of the festivities was Santa who made a grand entrance to the event having escaped the cold of the North Pole, to spread the joys of Christmas to young and old in a warm tropical setting. This added to the ambience and brought out that true festive spirit. Tropical-inspired cocktails were available along with delicious food to offer additional flavour to the celebrations.

Commenting on the celebrations, Renuke Coswatte, General Manager of Pegasus Reef Hotel said, “Our Christmas celebrations have always been highly anticipated and has set the tone for the season. This year, by giving festive traditions a tropical twist, we were able to provide our guests, their friends and families a truly unforgettable start to the holiday season. From ‘Santa’s Welcome Party’ coupled with the ‘Tropical Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony’ and with what we have in store in December, the celebrations will truly be unforgettable.”

Pegasus Reef Hotel has garnered a reputation for hosting exciting festive events over the years, making it a top choice for year-end parties for all. So much so, that the hotels Christmas festivities are eagerly anticipated throughout the year. This year’s ‘Tropical Christmas’ celebration was an ideal opportunity for families, couples and friends to celebrate the season in a warm and inviting setting, that features activities for all.

Lighting of the Christmas Tree and Santa’s welcome party brought the magic of ‘Tropical Christmas’ to life blending traditional holiday festivities added with tropical charm. Pegasus Reef Hotel warmly invites everyone to join in the upcoming seasonal celebrations and create cherished family memories that will last a lifetime.

For more information on future events, contact Pegasus Reef Hotel on 0112049600, follow them on social media at facebook.com/Pegasusreefwattala or www.instagram.com/pegasusreef_wattala and visit their website at www.pegasusreefhotel.com.

Fashion

Hot Red looks for Christmas

Published

6 days ago

2024/12/22

Thilina Walpola

Christmas is here and we are eager to begin the celebrations. Everything about December is breathtaking and spectacular, with the rapid shift in the weather and the increasing camaraderie. The cherry on top is the excitement of the New Year itself! The joyous month of the New Year and Christmas is filled with delicious delicacies, elegant decorations, lovely attire, and joyful vibes everywhere. Dressing up for Christmas in warm and fashionable red outfits is something we all love. However, if you are still confused about your Christmas attire, don’t worry, we are here to rescue you. When it comes to fashion and style, no one can do it better than our Bollywood queens. Here are some red-hot looks from our fav Bollywood divas to inspire your Christmas outfits.

Kiara Advani is a true fashionista who can pull off any look. While co-ord sets are among the season’s hottest fashions. In a red-coordinated ensemble, Kiara is offering fashion advice to everyone. Her ensemble is the ultimate Christmas attire since it perfectly combines sexiness and elegance. She is wearing a bustier crop top and a high-rise skirt that accentuate her physique. Bronze bangles and earrings completed Kiara Advani’s outfit as accessories. With this attire, you’ll definitely steal the show.

Huma’s red formal outfit serves as the ideal Christmas dress inspiration for you if you are not a fan of fancy attire and prefer a sleek and refined look. Whether it’s a casual gathering or a formal function, pantsuits look great on any occasion. In addition to being fashionable, it will also keep you warm. She looks great with a full-sleeved crimson jacket with a wide horizontal white stripe at the bust and straight-fit ankle leggings. For the best appearance, pair it with stud earrings and minimal makeup. Sara is a diva and she is slaying fashion goals in her little red dress with white frills.

If you wish to grab all the attention at the Christmas party then take cues from Sara and choose a red hot bodycon thigh-high slit little dress. Pair it up with a matching red jacket for the glam look and you will be ready to rock the Christmas party.

Among all the divas, Rakul Preet Singh is one of the most fashionable. The actress always dresses well, whether it’s in a gorgeous gown, party attire, or just something that’s too ethnic. Her red corset-style dress is stunning and a must-have for your Christmas wardrobe. It has an off-the-shoulder design, full sleeves, and a fitting nature. To get the glam look, wear it with pointed shoes and diamond drop earrings.

Talking about fashion and style and not mentioning Deepika Padukone is not fair. The queen of Bollywood looks amazing no matter what she wears. If you are tired of wearing dresses and gowns and want to try something different, her vibrant red power suit that exudes boss-woman energy is the ideal outfit inspiration. Her quirky bralette, which had a crisscross neckline, was polished off with a layer of preppy flair thanks to the oversized blazer’s design.

Life style

Tis the season to sparkle and shine

Published

6 days ago

2024/12/22

Thilina Walpola

This festive season, step into a world of allure at Taj Samudra Colombo, where the spirit of Christmas is brought to life with joy, celebration, and heartwarming experiences said a press release.In the words of Kris Kringle from A Miracle on 34th Street, “Christmas isn’t just a day; it’s a frame of mind.” At Taj Samudra, we embrace this philosophy with a delightful array of offerings designed to spread joy and festive cheer to our guests throughout the season said the release.

From gourmet hampers to festive family dinners, the Christmas carvery market, and the iconic Christmas goodies hut, our kitchen team has created a magical atmosphere for guests to enjoy, share, and celebrate this season of giving.

Luxury Seasonal Hampers and Wine

This Christmas, Taj Samudra offers the ultimate luxury gift experience with customized seasonal hampers. Choose from a selection of premium wines, Champagne, sparkling wines, and exclusive beverages, along with Christmas cakes, puddings, festival chocolates, cheese, seasonal cookies, and more. Curated to perfection, these hampers are the ideal way to indulge your loved ones with festive joy.

Christmas Carvery Counter

Indulge in the flavors of the season at our Christmas Carvery Counter, featuring a homemade charcuterie station brimming with delicious offerings. Enjoy lamb salami, beef salami, smoked lamb, honey ham, chicken cold cut, smoked seer, chicken liver pate and a variety of other delectable treats, perfect for gathering and sharing with friends and family.

Christmas goodies hut at the lobby

Visit the delightful Christmas goodies hut in our lobby, a stunning display of handpicked seasonal treats created by our award-winning chefs. The Goodies Hut, open daily from 10:00 am to 9.00 pm, offers an array of beautifully decorated seasonal goodies and carefully selected gift items—ideal for gifting or enjoying yourself.

Christmas eve celebrations

On the eve of Christmas, join us for a traditional Christmas eve dinner buffet at Ports of Call, where festive delicacies, live action stations, and mouthwatering desserts await. Santa will make a special appearance to delight the young and the young-at-heart. Additionally, enjoy a festive à la carte lunch and dinner at Golden Dragon, Navratna, and YUMI, our stylish Japanese resto-bar.

Christmas Day Festivities

Celebrate Christmas Day with a traditional festive lunch at Ports of Call, featuring all-time favorites such as succulent turkey and a wide selection of Christmas specialties. Our Executive Chef Sajesh Nair and his kitchen brigade will craft the perfect Christmas spread to satisfy every craving.

The said experience an unforgettable musical evening with The Traveleer Sound Duo from Budapest

The release said The lattice lobby lounge for an unforgettable musical experience with The Traveler Sound Duo from Budapest, Hungary. Known for their captivating performances, this talented duo brings a diverse repertoire that spans pop, rock, jazz, and more, offering something for every music lover. Catch them live every Tuesday to Sunday from 7:00 pm to 10:30 pm and enjoy their soulful melodies and dynamic sound in the heart of our vibrant atmosphere. They will also be performing during our renowned Sunday Brunch at Ports of Call, adding the perfect soundtrack to your delightful dining experience.

Unwind and Celebrate at YUMI Japanese Resto Bar and Poolside – Daily Happy Hour from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm

This holiday season, experience the magic of Christmas at Taj Samudra Colombo, where every corner of the hotel radiates the joy and warmth of the festive season.