Life style

In Sri Lanka . Lamprais keeps the Dutch Burgher legacy alive

Published

2 years ago

2023/10/29

by Zinara Ratnayake

It’s Lansi food,” Stephanie Herft begins to describe lamprais. Herft is the founder of Lansi’s, a home-based food delivery business that began in May 2019, in Colombo. I’m talking to Herft over the phone on a Sunday evening. She had just delivered a carton of lamprais, a Sunday afternoon staple at Lansi homes in Sri Lanka.

Every Sunday, Herft’s extended Lansi family gathers at her aunt Jennie’s house in suburban Colombo for an afternoon feast. Like most good things, preparing lamprais involves love and labor. It includes cooking rice in meat stock and making a special curry with a finely diced meat mix: chicken, beef, pork and mutton. There are several other condiments.

“It’s family work,” Herft chuckles.

On many afternoons, Herft would slice onions, while her aunt would prepare the rice, and others were busy with condiments. Together, they perfected the recipe of Herft’s great great grandmother.

“We sold Christmas cake, cards and lamprais every year at a small stall at the church fair,” Herft says, recalling the Christmas days. Her grandparents played Jim Reeves vinyl records on their old rickety record player whilst the extended family prepared lamprais and sipped on king coconut wine. “I remember the smell of lamprais wafting through our living room,” she says.

It was this smell that once charmed me at the VOC cafe at the Dutch Burgher Union (DBU) in Colombo. The waitstaff served me lamprais, a small parcel of food wrapped in a banana leaf, baked and nicely warm.

Like Herft says, lamprais is a fading culinary creation of the Lansis — or, the Dutch Burghers, an ethnic minority in Sri Lanka. This small packet of food itself is a vague reminder of colonial history, and a nod to the existence of the fast disappearing Dutch Burgher community in the island.

From the 15th century, Dutch ships sailed across Asia with merchants from Northern Europe. These merchants from Holland, France, Germany, Switzerland, England and other European nations belonged to the newly emerging middle class. Many of them joined Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie (VOC), or the Dutch East India Company founded in 1602. Their headquarters were in Batavia, present-day Indonesian capital Jakarta.

During this time, the Portuguese, who entered Sri Lanka in 1597, ruled over the low country coastal belt. They controlled the island’s rich spice trade. In 1658, Dutch took over the Portuguese to rule maritime Sri Lanka, then Ceylon, until the British arrival in 1796. Many of these Northern European merchants settled down in Sri Lanka and married people of Portuguese and local origin. This new social group of European descendants came to be identified as Burghers (this German-originated term translates to residents of a city). In Sinhala, the commonly used language in Sri Lanka, they were called Lansi, a term derived from Dutch Hollandsche, meaning inhabitant of Holland. From this socio -cultural concoction birthed the lamprais.

The word lamprias comes from the Dutch word lomprijst, which loosely translates to, a packet of food. In her book A Taste of Sugar & Spice: Cuisine of the Dutch Burgher Huisvrouw in Olde Ceylon, author Deloraine Brohier writes that lamprais was not European in origin, rather an improvisation of the Burghers, pairing the Asian staple rice and spices.

“Not to mention the plantain leaves in which they are packed which again are of tropical provenance,” writes Brohier. A common belief is that lamprais has roots to the Indonesian dish lemper, sticky rice sandwiched with a curried diced chicken mix that comes wrapped in a plantain leaf.

In traditional Burgher houses, preparing Sunday lamprais begins the previous night, with meat boiling for two hours and plantain leaves being cleaned. The next morning, women in the household begin their chores, adding curry leaves and pandan leaves to butter browning in a pot. Boiled rice goes into the frying mix, followed by the meat stock. A crushed mix of spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, lemongrass and peppercorns wrapped in a muslin cloth is placed in the pot, scenting and flavoring the rice as it cooks.

For one lamprais, a lump of boiled rice accompanies a dessert-spoonful of the mixed meat curry cooked with diced chicken, pork, beef and mutton. A traditional lamprais features exactly two frikkadels, meatballs spiced with finely chopped garlic and fresh green chillie.

There are condiments like blachang, dried prawn ground into a paste with pepper and garlic; seeni sambol, a caramelized onion accompaniment sprinkled with fish flakes. There is brinjal pahi, pickled eggplant with notes of sour-sweetness, and a vinegar-infused tang.

“Our family recipe also features an ash plantain curry,” Herft tells me, although it’s absent in most lamprais meals. All these ingredients sit neatly inside a banana leaf warmed over a fire to make it more supple. “It’s not bigger than your palm,” Herft says, referring to the size of the authentic lamprais, which bakes in an oven for more than 10 minutes until the aroma of the banana leaf seeps in.

But over the years, commercially made lamprais took many forms, adapting to the demands of the dominant Sinhalese culture of the country, and even going through gross misinterpretations. Even at the Dutch Burgher Union in Colombo now, the lamprais is a large packet of rice, as opposed to the handful of rice.

“It became very Sri Lankan,” says Rienzie Trek, food and beverage manager at the VOC cafe by DBU in Colombo, laughing as he talks to me about the history of the dish. “It was a snack in the past. When our ancestors tottered long journeys, they would carry a few packs of lamprais with them,” he says. “But now everyone eats it as a main meal.”

In Sri Lanka, influenced by the majority Sinhalese culture, rice is the centerpiece of every dining table. A popular phrase in Sinhala “udetath bath, dawaltath bath, retath bath,” meaning “rice for morning, afternoon and night,” suggests the island’s fondness in devouring rice for every meal.

Ancient farmer-families gathered energy for hard labor from their carb-heavy rice meals. With time, societies and economies changed with people shifting to desk jobs and the common use of machinery in agriculture. However, the carb-rich rice culture (which birthed to fuel energy for hard labor) continues even today.

“Customers complained that the quantity of rice in lamprias wasn’t enough,” says Prabhath Jayasekara, Head Chef at the VOC cafe. “So we had to increase the size of our lamprais.”

In many places, there’s a tendency to name any rice packet wrapped in banana leaf lamprais. When I last ate “lamprais,” at my university canteen, turmeric-coloured yellow rice accompanied a grilled chicken thigh instead of the curried meat mix. There was an egg, boiled and fried. Frikkadels were reduced to a cutlet—a deep-fried, breadcrumb-covered golden ball of potato and canned fish.

I talked to Herft about these misinterpretations, curious to know how Dutch Burghers felt.

“Someone called us to ask why we didn’t include an egg in our lamprais. My aunt Jennie spoke to them for 10 minutes, explaining that the authentic lamprais didn’t come with an egg,” she laughs.

Herft explains that culinary traditions transform, and everyone’s version of one’s food is different. “But our oldfolk are very protective of their traditions,” she says, “It’s fair because lamprais is the only popular dish that represents the Dutch Burghers. It is a symbol that we still exist.”

During the British colonial regime, many Dutch Burgher families adopted English as their mother tongue. English became a deciding tool for one’s status in society. It’s during these days that the Burghers rose as the new elite in the island, acquiring reputed administrative posts in British Ceylon as English speakers.

British left in 1948, and in 1956, the Sri Lankan government passed Sinhala Only Act, replacing English with Sinhala as the sole official language of the country. This turn of events threatened the socioc-cultural status of the Dutch Burghers. Many families fled Sri Lanka in the coming decades. In her book, Brohier notes that a census done in the 1940s revealed that 0.8 percent of the total population were Dutch Burghers, which was reduced to 0.2 percent in 1981. In her 2012 book, Brohier mentions that Burghers number to only 15,000-30,000 today in a total population of 21.67 million.

“I told Aunt Jennie that we should start selling our food,” Herft says. Their small business now employs single mothers, providing them an income in the pandemic when economies are halted. “It’s what our great great grandmother did. She was a philanthropist and someone who championed Dutch Burgher dishes. We are carrying her legacy forward,” she says.

The authentic lamprais disappears fast and wide, just like its creators, the Dutch Burghers from the island. The quest to save the lamprais is also a quest to reclaim the legacy of the Dutch Burghers.

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Life style

Beauty of Sri Lanka in focus: Global showcase blends art, diplomacy and conservation

Published

5 days ago

2026/04/12

Thilina Walpola

Ambassador Jovita Neliupsiene, Head of the EU Delegation to the US, and Mahinda Samarasinghe, Ambassador of Sri Lanka to the US, joined a special viewing of the exhibition

By Ifham Nizam

The sixth edition of the “Beauty of Sri Lanka” Photography Exhibition is set to unfold across North America this April, transforming the power of visual storytelling into a compelling platform for cultural diplomacy, environmental advocacy and nation branding.

Organised by the America Sri Lanka Photographic Art Society in collaboration with key diplomatic and institutional partners, including the Embassy of Sri Lanka in Washington, D.C., the Permanent Mission of Sri Lanka to the United Nations, the Consulate General of Sri Lanka in Los Angeles and Toronto, and the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau, the exhibition will run from April 22 to May 4 across Los Angeles, Toronto, New York and Washington, D.C.

Held in conjunction with Earth Day, the exhibition continues to evolve as a globally recognised initiative that brings together art, conservation and international engagement. What began as a photography showcase has now matured into a dynamic soft-power platform that tells Sri Lanka’s story to the world—through its landscapes, biodiversity, and deeply rooted cultural heritage.

Photographers from Sri Lanka at Nigara State Park

The 2026 tour will feature prestigious venues that reflect its growing international stature. These include the iconic Church of Scientology Celebrity Centre International, Metro Hall in Toronto—marking the exhibition’s debut in Canada—the Permanent Mission in New York, and the Sri Lankan Embassy in Washington, D.C., as part of the widely celebrated Passport D.C. event. Each venue represents not only a geographic expansion but also a widening of the exhibition’s global audience and influence.

Exhibition

At its heart, “Beauty of Sri Lanka” is a vivid narrative of a nation’s natural and cultural wealth. From the mist-covered central highlands and pristine coastal belts to dense rainforests teeming with endemic wildlife, the exhibition captures Sri Lanka’s ecological richness through the lenses of talented photographers. These images serve as both an invitation to explore and a reminder of the urgent need to protect fragile ecosystems.

This year’s programme takes a significant step further by integrating real-world environmental action. The “ReTree Los Angeles” initiative, launched in line with Earth Day, focuses on tree planting, urban restoration and community engagement. It also includes a children’s painting competition aimed at fostering environmental awareness among the younger generation. Organisers believe that nurturing creativity at an early age can instil a lifelong commitment to conservation.

Adding a scientific dimension to the event, Dr. Sarath Gunapala will deliver the keynote address on “The Journey of Infrared Photography,” exploring how advanced imaging techniques can reveal unseen dimensions of the natural world. His participation highlights the exhibition’s interdisciplinary approach, where art meets science to deepen understanding and appreciation.

The exhibition will also feature a vibrant cultural segment designed to immerse international audiences in Sri Lanka’s living traditions. A carefully curated lineup of performances—including the sacred Wes Pooja, the dramatic Naga Raksha mask dance, the rhythmic Thelme ritual dance and the light-hearted Salu Paliya—will bring to life the island’s folklore, rituals and performing arts heritage. These performances are expected to add colour, rhythm and emotional depth to the visual experience offered by the photographic displays.

ASPAS President Suria Perera emphasised that the exhibition is more than a display of images. “It is a celebration of Sri Lanka’s identity—its natural beauty, its cultural vibrancy, and its responsibility to future generations,” she said. “Through photography and community engagement, we aim to inspire a deeper connection between people and the environment.”

Over the years, the exhibition has drawn a diverse audience, including diplomats, policymakers, conservationists, art collectors and members of the Sri Lankan diaspora. Its ability to connect these varied groups underscores its role as a bridge between cultures, fostering dialogue and mutual understanding while strengthening Sri Lanka’s global presence.

The continued support of diplomatic missions, cultural institutions and tourism authorities has been instrumental in elevating the exhibition’s profile. Their collaboration reinforces the role of art as a powerful tool in shaping perceptions, building partnerships and promoting sustainable tourism.

As the 2026 edition prepares to open its doors, “Beauty of Sri Lanka” stands as a testament to the island nation’s enduring appeal and its commitment to conservation. It is not merely an exhibition, but a movement—one that celebrates beauty, inspires responsibility and connects Sri Lanka to the world through the universal language of art.

Life style

Vibrant celebration of tradition and togetherness

Published

5 days ago

2026/04/12

Thilina Walpola

This holiday season, City of Dreams Sri Lanka invites guests to step into the heart of a truly Sri Lankan celebration with Signature Avurudu—a four-day cultural experience taking place.

Blending time-honoured traditions with contemporary flair, the festivities promise to capture the spirit of the Aluth Avurudda (Sinhala and Tamil New Year) in all its colour, rhythm, and warmth. From the moment guests arrive, they will be welcomed into a space transformed with festive décor, echoing the charm of a village celebrations brought to life in the city.

At the centre of the celebration is the Pahan Pujava, a symbolic lamp lighting ceremony led by the management, setting a tone of unity, prosperity, and new beginnings. This meaningful ritual reflects the essence of the New Year—a time to pause, reflect, and step into the new year with hope and positivity.

Throughout the four days, guests can experience the rich cultural heritage of Sri Lanka through a series of traditional performances. The rhythmic beats of raban and drums, alongside vibrant dance acts, will fill the air, creating an atmosphere that is both nostalgic and celebratory. Adding to the experience are elegantly dressed Sri Lankan hostesses, offering a warm, authentic welcome that embodies the island’s renowned hospitality.

No Avurudu celebration is complete without its flavours, and City of Dreams Sri Lanka delivers a feast to remember. Guests can indulge in an array of traditional sweets and savouries, alongside curated Avurudu-themed buffets and creative beverages inspired by local ingredients. Passing canapés and festive treats ensure there is something to enjoy at every turn—whether you’re reminiscing over childhood favourites or discovering new twists on beloved classics.

Designed as a celebration for all, Signature Avurudu brings together families, friends, and visitors from around the world to share in the joy of the season. It is a reminder that Avurudu is more than a festival—it is a feeling of togetherness, renewal, and shared happiness.

This April, celebrate the sights, sounds, and tastes of Avurudu at City of Dreams Sri Lanka—where tradition meets modern celebration, and every moment feels like home.

Life style

Thomian sailors secure many medals in India

Published

5 days ago

2026/04/12

Thilina Walpola

Thomian sailors witj official

Students of S. Thomas’ College recently demonstrated commendable performance at two international sailing events held in India: the inaugural Indian Sailing Regatta and the 4th North-East Regatta. Both events featured participation from foreign teams, including Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Malaysia, Russia, Great Britain, South Korea, Singapore, and India.

The inaugural Indian Sailing League (ISL), held at Umiam Lake, Shillong, India, marked a significant milestone in the sport and was prominently featured in The Times of India. The ISL is a first-of-its-kind franchise-based sailing league, bringing together 14 teams, 182 sailors, and 58 international participants from eight countries.

The ISL follows a concept similar to the Cricket Indian Premier League, where top sailors are “bid” and selected into franchise teams representing different regions. The competition introduced an innovative team-based format in which the best sailor from each team in each category competed, combining multiple race formats such as fleet racing, team racing, marathon races, and rig-and-race challenges. This pioneering structure, widely regarded as a first in global sailing history, has significantly enhanced the spectator appeal and competitive depth of the sport, while promoting youth, women, and high-performance sailing on a single platform.

At the first Indian Sailing Regatta, in the Boys’ Optimist category, Haren Wickramatillake secured 3rd place and was also awarded a special medal for his courage during the rig and race event. Dhiren Perera achieved 3rd place in the rig and race event alongside his team member.

At the 4th North-East Regatta, performances continued to be noteworthy. In the Main Optimist Boys category, Haren Wickramatillake was placed 6th, while Shem Fernando secured 19th place out of 32 participants. In the Junior Green Fleet Optimist Boys category, Anuruth Tennakoon achieved 2nd place and Dhiren Perera was placed 4th out of 10 participants. In the ILCA 4 Boys category, Akaine Ubayasiri was placed 11th out of 22 participants.

These achievements highlight the high level of skill, determination, and sportsmanship demonstrated by the young sailors, while also reflecting Sri Lanka’s strong presence in an emerging and globally significant sailing platform.

Upcoming international sailing events, featuring students of S. Thomas’ College, include the Asian Beach Games 2026, to be held in China ,in April 2026, and the International Optimist Dinghy Association (IODA) competition, scheduled to take place at Port City, in Sri Lanka, in December 2026. These events will provide valuable international exposure and further opportunities for the young college sailors to compete at a high level.