Life style

Ena de Silva birth centenary : outdoors woman and designers extraordinary

Published

4 years ago

2022/10/23

Thilina Walpola

Ena with two young friends before visit to Wasgamuwa National Park

By Rajiva Wijesinha

Ena de Silva was born on October 23rd a hundred years ago. There will be public celebrations of her life and achievement, spearheaded by the architects who worked with Geoffrey Bawa, and for her too over the years. But given the joy of her personal impact, I thought there should also be a celebration of the companionship she provided to so many. I shall therefore have to lunch on that day a range of those who accompanied her on her different trips in the wilds. I was lucky enough to join with her for the first time on one of these early in 1984, and after that there were several over three decades. I have written about these in Exploring with Ena which was published by Godage & Bros a few months after coronavirus had stopped travel within the country. But that covered a lot of our times together, whereas today I thought of celebrating the different rhythms of the times and places where we stayed with larger groups.

On that first trip we were rained in, Ena and two of her nephews and Shanthi Wilson and my sister and me, and also an English friend, leading her sister to claim that Ena was leading the children of four families astray. That was the keynote of Ena’s personality, her youthfulness that led her to spend so much time with the next generation, more energetic than most of them. Indeed, as the years passed, she would refuse to stay in, and with my driver Kithsiri willing to do anything for her, set off with him and just one other person, me usually, in the long mornings between breakfast, after a dawn round, and lunch.

After that first memorable stay at the Yala bungalow, there were several more to the different bungalows in the park over the next few years, including during the height of the JVP problems, so that sometimes we had Yala practically to ourselves. By then the carefree days of single bliss had passed for several of what was termed the hard core of her companions, and my sister Anila and her nephews Raji and Suren brought along spouses, as did Anila’s friend Priyani Tennekoon, who had married Harin Abeysekera.Food on these excursions was fantastic, Ena bringing heaps of baskets and boxes down from Aluvihare, including her signature Alu chicken, lavishly put together by her faithful Suja, who she claimed had not known even to boil water when she first began to work for Ena. But she turned into the most fantastic cook, and Ena’s major domo Piyadasa and the last and longest serving of her drivers Karim – who could, with his army experience, she said, do everything except drive – packed skilfully, so that after we had stuffed ourselves there was plenty too for the Yala staff, over several days.

Ena (left) with son Anil Gamini Jayasuriya (right) at his sister Anula Kusum’s wedding in 1989

In 1987 we had Christmas at Yala, the Talgasmankada Bungalow down by the Manik Ganga, isolated enough for Ena to hang Japanese lanterns on the trees surrounding it. That was when she started producing turkey and ham, the latter cured at Aluvihare. Her daughter Kusum was with us that year, and again in 1990 when her American husband was also there, as also in 1991. But on that latter occasion the bungalow was filled to overflowing – we got there only the day after Christmas – and Raji who had booked it was duly reprimanded. The goodwill he had generated, when he once took down the salaries of the staff when officials were fearful of the JVP, was not enough to excuse that particular excess.

I don’t think that was the reason, but after that there were no more Christmases in the park at Yala. But instead we moved to Wasgamuwa, where we had two sensational Chrismases, at the Kadurupitiya bungalow. Then, as once later for the new year at the Ondaatje Bungalow outside Yala, we were joined by Ismeth and Dileeni Raheem, the latter as accomplished in cakes and deserts as Ena was in everything else, and I’m afraid I remember those excursions as much for the food as for the hordes of elephants we saw.

Another companion from the nineties on was Shirley Perera, who had been Deputy Director of the Wild Life Department, and then started after premature retirement to work for Ena at Aluvihare, to supervise the carpentry and brass which she had started to provide occupation for the young men of the village. She had started carpentry in the eighties, because she said they would otherwise get into mischief, a salutary step when the JVP was getting into its stride. As a consequence, I have always believed, no young men from Aluvihare died in those dreadful days.

Shirley had been introduced to Ena by Nihal Fernando, another devotee of wild life, whose daughter Anu was also with us on one memorable trip. But that was later, not when with him and Shirley we had made a couple of memorable excursions in the eighties into Block 2, across the Manik Ganga. He was a soothing presence of our trips, coping admirably with the excited conversation of Ena’s young companions, contributing occasionally to Ismeth Raheem’s learned accounts of subjects as varied as ancient irrigation systems and the contribution of the photographer Julia Cameron, whose grave is at Bogawantalawa.

It was through Shirley that in 1992 Ena and Nirmali Hettiarachchi and I first went to Wasgamuwa, and also to Maduru Oya, before those parks were opened to the public. In Wasgamuwa we slept in the open, near the Mahaweli river in which we had to bathe, wary of passing elephants. In Maduru Oya we were put up by the Warden, who took us round the place, including to an ancient spill built in what modern engineers had chosen as the best place for an outlet for the reservoir.

Though that was the only jungle trip with Nirmali, she had become a good friend, and contributed too to what was called K2, the Restaurant Kitchen Ena had set up on the main Kandy Dambulla Road, to supplement K1 where Suja produced the most wonderful meals on order. K2, open to passers by, was set up by Ena to provide occupation for the middle aged ladies of the village, and she recruited the most delightful crew, who had to be taught not only to serve, but also to cook systematically. Nirmali taught them puddings, though characteristically Ena converted her pineapple upside down into a concoction dripping with melted jiggery, though which bits of pineapple peeped.

Twice I went with Ena to Anderson’s Bungalow in Horton Plains, driven by Sheran Fernando for I could not go up when the rest went. They did not know him but he and Ena’s nephew Suren soon palled up, and the latter became with him, long after I had ceased to go there, a habitue of the Art Centre Club at the Lionel Wendt. The second trip to Horton Plains was arranged by Raji, for Nihal Fernando and his wife Dodo, and also an old family friend Ben Fonseka, who was a friend of my father too. That was when early morning we saw a leopard, which Nihal managed to capture on film. But it was the first trip that was especially memorable, when we climbed Kirigalpoththa and Totapola, and swam in the freezing water below Baker’s Falls,

And one night we drove on the plains while the full moon danced through clouds in the sky, lighting up sambhur in silhouette, We had permission for this, though I presume not formally, from the warden who had joined us for dinner. This was a delightful youngster called Ambepitiya, who sadly fell victim to terrorists a few years later, though whether LTTE or JVP I cannot remember. It was the LTTE that did for our bungalow keeper at Maradanmaduwa in Wilpattu. We had gone there for the New Year in April 1984, Richard de Zoysa’s mother Manorani coming with us, though Richard himself only just dropped in fleetingly on his motor bike, en route to the north where he was working for Lalith Athulathmudali who had been made Minister of National Security.

I can still see the striking face of the bungalow keeper Tennekoon, who was prematurely grey, worried about his first baby, whom Manorani treated. A few months later he and his family were all dead, when the LTTE attacked the Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura. And later the helper at Mahasilawa, whom I remember weeping for his cat when a python caught it, also vanished when the LTTE struck down there.

As Yala became more popular when dangers diminished, and bookings were less easy to obtain, and had to be for just short periods, Raji rented a house outside the park, Rapp’s Lodge as he called it, where we stayed on several occasions, looked after by a waiter he had got from the Mahaweli Reach hotel, who could also cook. Once I remember I spent my birthday there, joined on that occasion by Nigel Hatch, with whom I had made my first memorable excursion with Ena during the Wesak break of 1983, or a loaf as she described it when, almost as soon as we got to Aluvihare, she proposed we take off that night. Also with us for that birthday was Raji’s first wife Mali who had been with us so often in the eighties, and also Amila de Mel, who has taken charge now of the Aluvihare Cooperative, which still continues with Ena’s batik and handloom work though the carpentry and brass and K2 are now history. Suja however still continues to provide the occasional feast on order at K1, and has provided me with Alu chicken today, essential if Ena is to be properly commemorated.

Then there were other wonderful holidays, at Priyani’s rambling walauwe at Rambukkana, at the Bandarawela Tourist Resort, from where we went to Maligawila and Buduruvagala, and also at Belihuloya when it was an Affiliated University and I was able to take friends to spend the New Year there. On one occasion Ena had to rush back to Colombo because her sister was ill, but on the other Harin and Priyani and their son and Ena and Shanthi and I had a memorable few days, Shanthi commandeering Harin to drive her to Nuwara Eliya for some work, while Ena and Priyani and I had a leisurely drive across the escarpment to Diyaluma.

During my sabbatical, Kithsiri drove just her and me on long meandering trips all over the country, which included stays at the Teldeniya and Deniyaya Resthouses (the latter where we had stayed on that long ago journey with Nigel in 1983), the seaside at Jaela (for I had to get to Kelaniya University to make sure that Manique Gunasekara got the Chair, an appointment long delayed), and the Eagle’s Nest up in the clouds at Ohiya. One of these journeys started at Mirissa Hills, the Syrian Castle like home of Miles Young who the following year took us on a wonderful tour of China, to Hangzou and Suchou as well as his house in the old French quarter of Shanghai. That was the year after Ena and I had had a wonderful time together in India, when she had taught batik to workmen in Ujjain and she and I sneaked off for a day and a night in the magical town of Mandu. Before that, soon after Kithsiri had acquired the yellow fiat she adored, and in which we had our sabbatical tours, we had had had a wonderful trip over Christamas to Mannar, just Kithsiri and Ena and me, when we went to Madhu on Christmas Day, and to Talaimannar, and relished the magnificent bird life, especially as the sun set gloriously over the channel between island and mainland.

In this century we did not get to the parks quite as often, but apart from that birthday stay in 2003, she did cater for stays I arranged for foreign friends, in Yala once and in Wasgamuwa on another occasion. And when Ena turned 90, in 2012, it was clear that the best place to celebrate this was in Yala. The booking was arranged by Ajitha Madanayake, whom Raji had introduced to us in the mid-eighties, and who often went on trips with Ena after that. Raji was back from New Zealand for the birthday, and Shanthi Wilson was there too, and the main birthday cake was in the shape of an elephant.

That was my last loaf with Ena, though I saw her frequently over the next couple of years, spending much time with her on the rock above her house, with its magnificent view, with Piyadasa clambering up the rock steps to provide patties and tea. And Shanthi and I were there the night before her 93rd birthday though the next day, having cut her cake, she collapsed. When I went up a week later, to hold her hand as she lay dying, I remembered that on the preceding New Year’s Eve, she had told me she was ready to go.

‘You can’t,’ I said. ‘People in our family live to be 93’. I cited my father and my grandmother, whose cousin had been Ena’s mother.

‘So you mean I have to live till I’m 93?’ she said. I nodded and she sighed. But she stayed the course, and even those brief moments together in 2015, including when though she had been ill she sat on the lawn with me one evening as dusk fell, are amongst my cherished memories of a wonderful companion.

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Life style

Sri Lanka eyes conservation-led tourism boost as Gehan urges integrated approach

Published

4 hours ago

2026/04/26

Thilina Walpola

View of Trincomalee from Fort Frederick

Sri Lanka could unlock a powerful new economic pathway by integrating biodiversity, archaeology and cultural heritage into a single conservation-driven tourism model, according to author, banker and naturalist Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne.

Speaking to The Island, de Silva Wijeyeratne said the country possesses a rare convergence of natural and historical assets that, if strategically presented, could reposition Sri Lanka as a leading global destination for nature and heritage tourism.

“At the moment, these elements exist, but they are not fully connected,” he said. “What Sri Lanka has is extraordinary—a complete story of life, from ancient history to modern biodiversity. The opportunity is to bring that together in a way that creates value.”

His remarks come at a time when policymakers are seeking sustainable avenues to revive the economy, with tourism identified as a key growth sector. De Silva Wijeyeratne is currently researching his next book, ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing in the UK.

Koneswaram Temple Trincomalee

He said his recent field visit reinforced the untapped potential of integrated landscapes—particularly in the eastern region around Trincomalee.

He spent four days in Trincomalee with Hiran and Hashan Coory, two members of the senior leadership in Jetwing Hotels. Commenting on the visit, he said “Within a short distance, you have forests, marine ecosystems, archaeological sites and protected areas. This is not about isolated attractions—it’s about creating a connected experience that can compete globally.”

He noted that such an approach could continue to transform Sri Lanka’s tourism model beyond traditional beach-centric travel. “You can offer visitors wildlife, marine biodiversity and ancient history in a single journey,” he said. “That’s a very powerful proposition.”

Speaking more on Trincomalee’s potential, he said the combination of ancient history, the more recent colonial history and buildings, the beautiful beaches and coves, the snorkelling and marine mammal watching combined with the potential to create a huge national park that will have large mammals on the doorstep of the city means Trincomalee can become the city with the greatest tourism potential of any city in Sri Lanka.

Maritime and Naval History Museum Trincomalee

“A vast national park on the scale of better-known parks such as Wilpattu and Yala can be created by connecting the forest reserves which stretch from Kantalai and through to the Naval Headworks Sanctuary, almost to the borders of the Trincomalee town” he says. “A new national park could be constructed with a network of safari roads and water holes and grass plains to increase the prey density for iconic mammals like the leopard. Trincomalee can then become a top land safari destination with an entrance gate to a national park just 15 minutes drive from the town. No other city will be able to rival it for land safaris, marine safaris, ancient and colonial history, staggering views and beaches and the heady mix of various ethnic groups with their religious beliefs, cuisine and arts. Trincomalee could overshadow every other city in Sri Lanka for tourism if developed properly”.

Velgam Vehera

De Silva Wijeyeratne emphasised that conservation must be positioned not as a constraint, but as an economic enabler. “If you encourage and enable responsible visitation, it brings revenues to these areas,” he said. “That supports conservation and also creates livelihoods for local communities.”

However, he cautioned that development must be carefully managed to avoid damaging sensitive ecosystems. “You need development that is sensitive to these landscapes and the proper infrastructure to manage visitation,” he said. “The value lies in preserving what is already there.”

In addition to tourism, de Silva Wijeyeratne highlighted the need to strengthen Sri Lanka’s conservation capacity through international collaboration. He has proposed the introduction of a special visa to attract experienced global conservationists willing to work on a voluntary basis.

He referenced his article ‘A visa for bringing in expertise and expanding tourism’ which was published in The Island on Friday, 23 May, 2025, and is available online. In this he proposes a special visa to address four strands – volunteering, internships, academic exchange and short term study. The idea is that the visa should be as easy as to obtain an online tourist visa, but the visitor can now apply for a longer term visa for a declared purpose, such as volunteering.

Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne

He was careful to emphasise that the proposed visa is not for paid work and does not give the visitor special rights, and any relevant permits and permission need be obtained by the local partner. “There are people with 30 or 40 years of experience in research and conservation who would gladly come to Sri Lanka and contribute” he said. “If we create a proper framework, they can work with local organisations, share knowledge and build expertise.” Such a system, he stressed, would not undermine local employment. “These are unpaid roles—they are not taking jobs away. Furthermore, they will help locals to upskill,” he said. “They are helping to strengthen the system.”

De Silva Wijeyeratne also underscored the importance of science communication in driving conservation outcomes. Drawing from his recent lecture to the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society, he said public understanding of biodiversity remains limited, particularly when it comes to foundational elements, such as plant life. “In my recent lecture I started with plants because they are often overlooked,” he said. “In Sri Lanka we have the descendants of ancient plant groups, like lycophytes and bryophytes, as well as an abundance of the relatively more modern flowering plants (or angiosperms). They all form the basis of all ecosystems.” Sri Lankan researchers would benefit from international collaborations to describe and study the ecology of species found in Sri Lanka. As an example of the gaps in our knowledge, he pointed that it is hard to find online even a species inventory of Sri Lankan species of Lycophytes.

He further highlighted the interconnected nature of life, pointing to the role of microscopic organisms. “Every cell in our body contains mitochondria, and that DNA originated from bacteria,” he said. “So we are, in a sense, composite organisms built on ancient biological relationships. “This perspective, he said, is critical to fostering a deeper appreciation of biodiversity and the need for its conservation. “If people understand how interconnected life is, they begin to value it differently,” he said.

De Silva Wijeyeratne’s ongoing research for ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka,’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing, also touches on Sri Lanka’s layered history, including its colonial past. During his recent visit to Trincomalee, he visited the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, the brother of renowned novelist Jane Austen. “I read in the Bradt Guide to Sri Lanka that her brother was buried in the Esplanade Cemetery. There was an article online by Nishan Fernando in the Sunday Times where he describes how, in 1984, he and his father, Admiral Clancy Fernando, located the grave. Fernando wrote of the burial ground on the Esplanade in the middle of Trincomalee town, opposite the beautiful horseshoe shaped Dutch Bay.”

After a false start at another cemetery, using Google maps, de Silva Wijeyeratne with others, including Hiran and Hashan Cooray, some of the senior team from Jetwing Hotels, visited St. Stephan Cemetery which is around 400 meters from the Maritime and Naval History Museum. ‘We found the grave as described in the Sunday Times article by Nishan Fernando. But talking to various hoteliers and people in tourism in Trincomalee, we were struck by how many people were unaware of its existence. Hopefully, knowing that the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, brother of Jane Austen, is roughly in the middle of St. Stephan Cemetery, in Trincomalee, will help others, with an interest in Jane Austen, to locate it.”

During his time in Trincomalee, with the Jetwing Hotels team, de Silva Wijeyeratne also visited Mederigiriya, Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. They encountered elephants on their visits to Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. “That brief visit alone shows how rich and complex Sri Lanka’s story is,” he said. “It spans pre-colonial, colonial and post-colonial periods.” For de Silva Wijeyeratne, the challenge now lies in translating this richness into a coherent national narrative. “This country has everything—biodiversity, ancient civilisation, marine ecosystems, etc.,” he said. “Few places in the world can offer such an all-round package.”

He stressed that aligning conservation with tourism and knowledge-sharing could deliver long-term benefits. “It’s about connecting the dots,” he said. “If we do that successfully, Sri Lanka can position itself as a world-class destination, while protecting its natural and cultural heritage.” As the country looks to rebuild and diversify its economy, de Silva Wijeyeratne’s message is clear: Conservation, when strategically integrated, could become one of Sri Lanka’s strongest assets. (Pictures courtesy Gehan de Silva) Wijeyeratne

By Ifham Nizam

Life style

Bringing the flavours and spirit of Jaffna to life

Published

4 hours ago

2026/04/26

Thilina Walpola

Grace draped in tradition

Long before the first dish was placed at the Jaffna food festival at Cinnamon Bentota Beach, a dedicated team of staff and culinary staff journeyed to Jaffna.

In the North they stepped out of professional hotels and into homes, road side eateries and bustling local markets. They observed, listened and, most importantly, tasted. The experience was as much about unlearning as it was learning.

They spent time with local people, women who have perfected their craft over decades, fishermen who spoke of the day’s fresh catch, spice vendors who explained the subtle difference in dried chillies and roasted blends.

They saw the liberal use of black peppers, tamarind and the depth of roasted curry powders.

In the end, what the team brought back from the North was not just technique or taste, it was perspective. What stayed most was the spirit of Jaffna, its people resourceful grounded and deeply connected to roots.

And so when the festival came to life in Bentota, it was not just a recreation, it was a reflection. They realised the heart of Jaffna is not only in its flavours but in its people.

Cinnamon Bentota Beach — signature selection celebrated the rich heritage, vibrant culture, and authentic cuisine of Northern Sri Lanka with its signature “Jaffna Night” recently. The evening was a heartfelt journey into Jaffna’s traditions, inviting guests to experience the warmth, flavours, and stories of this remarkable region.

: Time honoured rituals

: Jaffna’s bold flavours

: Warm welcome from heart of southern hospitality

: General Manager welcoming guests

Guests were welcomed with the traditional greetings, followed by religious rituals that set the evening in a meaningful cultural context. The highlight was the launch of the “Jaffna Culinary Journey” video series, capturing the resort team’s immersive exploration of Jaffna’s culinary landscape and community life.

From preparing local delicacies alongside villagers, to stepping into traditional homes, participating in early morning poojas, and wandering bustling fish markets; vegetable markets, the team discovered that Jaffna’s cuisine is inseparable from its identity, history, and community spirit.

Cinnamon Bentota Beach — Signature Selection shared reflections on the journey, emphasising how meaningful experiences can preserve and honour cultural heritage. The evening culminated in the official launch of the Jaffna Food Festival at the resort – a continuation of the journey that brings authentic Jaffna flavours and stories directly to guests in Bentota.

“Jaffna Night” was more than a culinary celebration; it was a testament to connection, culture, and the shared joy of learning through food and tradition.

By Zanita Careem

Life style

Sun Siyam Pasikudah paves the way in sustainability

Published

4 hours ago

2026/04/26

Thilina Walpola

Upul - Group Sustainability Manager

Sun Siyam Pasikudah has added another milestone to its growing list of achievements by earning the prestigious Travel Gold Certification, a recognition that reflects the resort’s dedication to exceptional hospitality, high service standards and memorable guest experience. At this resort, sustainability isn’t just a concept it is a commitment. So driving eco conscious change, behind the scenes, is Chaminda Upul Kumara, shaping a hospitality experience where luxury meets responsibility .

Q: Sun Siyam Pasikudah has earned Travelife Gold Certification, covering 147 criteria, from energy and water to wildlife and community welfare. What did that journey genuinely push the property and the wider group to do differently?

A: Earning Travelife Gold was never just about getting the certificate. Working through 147 criteria covering energy, water, waste, wildlife, and community welfare made us look hard at ourselves and ask whether we were truly doing enough in each of those areas.

What it really pushed us to do was move beyond compliance. We tightened our conservation practices, improved how we manage waste, and put more deliberate effort into biodiversity and community programmes. But perhaps the most meaningful shift was weaving sustainability into the guest experience itself, making it visible and accessible without ever compromising on comfort or quality.

At the group level, Pasikudah became a working model. The practices we refined here have since been adapted and adopted across our other properties, creating a culture where sustainability is not a side project managed by one department but something that shapes how every team member thinks and works. It reinforced what Sun Siyam Care stands for: that responsible hospitality is not a goal we work towards. It is simply who we are.

Q: Most of the Sun Siyam story has been written in the Maldives. How does Pasikudah write its own chapter, given how different the setting, the coastline, and the community around it are?

A: When the civil conflict in Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province ended in 2009, our founder Ahmed Siyam Mohamed saw something in Pasikudah Bay that many others had not yet noticed. The calm, shallow waters and unspoiled beaches were extraordinary, but he also saw a region ready for renewal and an opportunity to be part of that through responsible tourism.

The property opened in 2014 as a 34-room luxury boutique resort, quietly introducing refined hospitality to Sri Lanka’s east coast. Then came COVID-19 and the country’s economic crisis, two of the hardest back-to-back challenges any hospitality business could face. Rather than simply wait it out, General Manager Mohamed Arshed Refai led a comprehensive transformation of the property.

The refurbishment was guided by international design firm Studio 67, but its real character came from a very deliberate decision: every single material used was locally sourced, and Sri Lankan artisans and craftspeople were involved throughout the process. It was not just a renovation. It was a recommitment to the region and the people in it.

That is what sets Pasikudah apart within the Sun Siyam family. The Maldives properties have their own extraordinary identity, but Pasikudah’s chapter is distinctly Sri Lankan. From post-conflict rebuilding to post-crisis renewal, it is a story of courage, community, and the belief that investing in a place means investing in its people.

Q:There is an organic farm on the property growing over 38 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Tell us about that. It feels like it says something bigger about how the resort thinks about its place here.

A: The farm is a fairly direct expression of how we think about our responsibility to this place. At least 30 percent of our menu is plant-based, and being able to grow a meaningful portion of that on the property makes that commitment tangible rather than theoretical. Guests receive their welcome drinks made with fruit grown here. The chefs know exactly where their produce comes from and what it took to grow it.

We also have what we call climate-conscious dishes on the menu, options designed around sustainable food principles that prompt guests to think about what they are eating and where it originated. Beyond the farm itself, we source a significant share of our ingredients from local farmers and producers in the surrounding community. That reduces food miles and carbon emissions, but it also means the resort is actively supporting the local food economy rather than bypassing it.

Put simply, the farm is not a marketing feature. It reflects a commitment to operating in a way that is connected to this land and these communities, rather than sitting apart from them.