Life style
Ena de Silva birth centenary : outdoors woman and designers extraordinary
By Rajiva Wijesinha
Ena de Silva was born on October 23rd a hundred years ago. There will be public celebrations of her life and achievement, spearheaded by the architects who worked with Geoffrey Bawa, and for her too over the years. But given the joy of her personal impact, I thought there should also be a celebration of the companionship she provided to so many. I shall therefore have to lunch on that day a range of those who accompanied her on her different trips in the wilds. I was lucky enough to join with her for the first time on one of these early in 1984, and after that there were several over three decades. I have written about these in Exploring with Ena which was published by Godage & Bros a few months after coronavirus had stopped travel within the country. But that covered a lot of our times together, whereas today I thought of celebrating the different rhythms of the times and places where we stayed with larger groups.
On that first trip we were rained in, Ena and two of her nephews and Shanthi Wilson and my sister and me, and also an English friend, leading her sister to claim that Ena was leading the children of four families astray. That was the keynote of Ena’s personality, her youthfulness that led her to spend so much time with the next generation, more energetic than most of them. Indeed, as the years passed, she would refuse to stay in, and with my driver Kithsiri willing to do anything for her, set off with him and just one other person, me usually, in the long mornings between breakfast, after a dawn round, and lunch.
After that first memorable stay at the Yala bungalow, there were several more to the different bungalows in the park over the next few years, including during the height of the JVP problems, so that sometimes we had Yala practically to ourselves. By then the carefree days of single bliss had passed for several of what was termed the hard core of her companions, and my sister Anila and her nephews Raji and Suren brought along spouses, as did Anila’s friend Priyani Tennekoon, who had married Harin Abeysekera.Food on these excursions was fantastic, Ena bringing heaps of baskets and boxes down from Aluvihare, including her signature Alu chicken, lavishly put together by her faithful Suja, who she claimed had not known even to boil water when she first began to work for Ena. But she turned into the most fantastic cook, and Ena’s major domo Piyadasa and the last and longest serving of her drivers Karim – who could, with his army experience, she said, do everything except drive – packed skilfully, so that after we had stuffed ourselves there was plenty too for the Yala staff, over several days.
Ena (left) with son Anil Gamini Jayasuriya (right) at his sister Anula Kusum’s wedding in 1989
In 1987 we had Christmas at Yala, the Talgasmankada Bungalow down by the Manik Ganga, isolated enough for Ena to hang Japanese lanterns on the trees surrounding it. That was when she started producing turkey and ham, the latter cured at Aluvihare. Her daughter Kusum was with us that year, and again in 1990 when her American husband was also there, as also in 1991. But on that latter occasion the bungalow was filled to overflowing – we got there only the day after Christmas – and Raji who had booked it was duly reprimanded. The goodwill he had generated, when he once took down the salaries of the staff when officials were fearful of the JVP, was not enough to excuse that particular excess.
I don’t think that was the reason, but after that there were no more Christmases in the park at Yala. But instead we moved to Wasgamuwa, where we had two sensational Chrismases, at the Kadurupitiya bungalow. Then, as once later for the new year at the Ondaatje Bungalow outside Yala, we were joined by Ismeth and Dileeni Raheem, the latter as accomplished in cakes and deserts as Ena was in everything else, and I’m afraid I remember those excursions as much for the food as for the hordes of elephants we saw.
Another companion from the nineties on was Shirley Perera, who had been Deputy Director of the Wild Life Department, and then started after premature retirement to work for Ena at Aluvihare, to supervise the carpentry and brass which she had started to provide occupation for the young men of the village. She had started carpentry in the eighties, because she said they would otherwise get into mischief, a salutary step when the JVP was getting into its stride. As a consequence, I have always believed, no young men from Aluvihare died in those dreadful days.
Shirley had been introduced to Ena by Nihal Fernando, another devotee of wild life, whose daughter Anu was also with us on one memorable trip. But that was later, not when with him and Shirley we had made a couple of memorable excursions in the eighties into Block 2, across the Manik Ganga. He was a soothing presence of our trips, coping admirably with the excited conversation of Ena’s young companions, contributing occasionally to Ismeth Raheem’s learned accounts of subjects as varied as ancient irrigation systems and the contribution of the photographer Julia Cameron, whose grave is at Bogawantalawa.
It was through Shirley that in 1992 Ena and Nirmali Hettiarachchi and I first went to Wasgamuwa, and also to Maduru Oya, before those parks were opened to the public. In Wasgamuwa we slept in the open, near the Mahaweli river in which we had to bathe, wary of passing elephants. In Maduru Oya we were put up by the Warden, who took us round the place, including to an ancient spill built in what modern engineers had chosen as the best place for an outlet for the reservoir.
Though that was the only jungle trip with Nirmali, she had become a good friend, and contributed too to what was called K2, the Restaurant Kitchen Ena had set up on the main Kandy Dambulla Road, to supplement K1 where Suja produced the most wonderful meals on order. K2, open to passers by, was set up by Ena to provide occupation for the middle aged ladies of the village, and she recruited the most delightful crew, who had to be taught not only to serve, but also to cook systematically. Nirmali taught them puddings, though characteristically Ena converted her pineapple upside down into a concoction dripping with melted jiggery, though which bits of pineapple peeped.
Twice I went with Ena to Anderson’s Bungalow in Horton Plains, driven by Sheran Fernando for I could not go up when the rest went. They did not know him but he and Ena’s nephew Suren soon palled up, and the latter became with him, long after I had ceased to go there, a habitue of the Art Centre Club at the Lionel Wendt. The second trip to Horton Plains was arranged by Raji, for Nihal Fernando and his wife Dodo, and also an old family friend Ben Fonseka, who was a friend of my father too. That was when early morning we saw a leopard, which Nihal managed to capture on film. But it was the first trip that was especially memorable, when we climbed Kirigalpoththa and Totapola, and swam in the freezing water below Baker’s Falls,
And one night we drove on the plains while the full moon danced through clouds in the sky, lighting up sambhur in silhouette, We had permission for this, though I presume not formally, from the warden who had joined us for dinner. This was a delightful youngster called Ambepitiya, who sadly fell victim to terrorists a few years later, though whether LTTE or JVP I cannot remember. It was the LTTE that did for our bungalow keeper at Maradanmaduwa in Wilpattu. We had gone there for the New Year in April 1984, Richard de Zoysa’s mother Manorani coming with us, though Richard himself only just dropped in fleetingly on his motor bike, en route to the north where he was working for Lalith Athulathmudali who had been made Minister of National Security.
I can still see the striking face of the bungalow keeper Tennekoon, who was prematurely grey, worried about his first baby, whom Manorani treated. A few months later he and his family were all dead, when the LTTE attacked the Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura. And later the helper at Mahasilawa, whom I remember weeping for his cat when a python caught it, also vanished when the LTTE struck down there.
As Yala became more popular when dangers diminished, and bookings were less easy to obtain, and had to be for just short periods, Raji rented a house outside the park, Rapp’s Lodge as he called it, where we stayed on several occasions, looked after by a waiter he had got from the Mahaweli Reach hotel, who could also cook. Once I remember I spent my birthday there, joined on that occasion by Nigel Hatch, with whom I had made my first memorable excursion with Ena during the Wesak break of 1983, or a loaf as she described it when, almost as soon as we got to Aluvihare, she proposed we take off that night. Also with us for that birthday was Raji’s first wife Mali who had been with us so often in the eighties, and also Amila de Mel, who has taken charge now of the Aluvihare Cooperative, which still continues with Ena’s batik and handloom work though the carpentry and brass and K2 are now history. Suja however still continues to provide the occasional feast on order at K1, and has provided me with Alu chicken today, essential if Ena is to be properly commemorated.
Then there were other wonderful holidays, at Priyani’s rambling walauwe at Rambukkana, at the Bandarawela Tourist Resort, from where we went to Maligawila and Buduruvagala, and also at Belihuloya when it was an Affiliated University and I was able to take friends to spend the New Year there. On one occasion Ena had to rush back to Colombo because her sister was ill, but on the other Harin and Priyani and their son and Ena and Shanthi and I had a memorable few days, Shanthi commandeering Harin to drive her to Nuwara Eliya for some work, while Ena and Priyani and I had a leisurely drive across the escarpment to Diyaluma.
During my sabbatical, Kithsiri drove just her and me on long meandering trips all over the country, which included stays at the Teldeniya and Deniyaya Resthouses (the latter where we had stayed on that long ago journey with Nigel in 1983), the seaside at Jaela (for I had to get to Kelaniya University to make sure that Manique Gunasekara got the Chair, an appointment long delayed), and the Eagle’s Nest up in the clouds at Ohiya. One of these journeys started at Mirissa Hills, the Syrian Castle like home of Miles Young who the following year took us on a wonderful tour of China, to Hangzou and Suchou as well as his house in the old French quarter of Shanghai. That was the year after Ena and I had had a wonderful time together in India, when she had taught batik to workmen in Ujjain and she and I sneaked off for a day and a night in the magical town of Mandu. Before that, soon after Kithsiri had acquired the yellow fiat she adored, and in which we had our sabbatical tours, we had had had a wonderful trip over Christamas to Mannar, just Kithsiri and Ena and me, when we went to Madhu on Christmas Day, and to Talaimannar, and relished the magnificent bird life, especially as the sun set gloriously over the channel between island and mainland.
In this century we did not get to the parks quite as often, but apart from that birthday stay in 2003, she did cater for stays I arranged for foreign friends, in Yala once and in Wasgamuwa on another occasion. And when Ena turned 90, in 2012, it was clear that the best place to celebrate this was in Yala. The booking was arranged by Ajitha Madanayake, whom Raji had introduced to us in the mid-eighties, and who often went on trips with Ena after that. Raji was back from New Zealand for the birthday, and Shanthi Wilson was there too, and the main birthday cake was in the shape of an elephant.
That was my last loaf with Ena, though I saw her frequently over the next couple of years, spending much time with her on the rock above her house, with its magnificent view, with Piyadasa clambering up the rock steps to provide patties and tea. And Shanthi and I were there the night before her 93rd birthday though the next day, having cut her cake, she collapsed. When I went up a week later, to hold her hand as she lay dying, I remembered that on the preceding New Year’s Eve, she had told me she was ready to go.
‘You can’t,’ I said. ‘People in our family live to be 93’. I cited my father and my grandmother, whose cousin had been Ena’s mother.
‘So you mean I have to live till I’m 93?’ she said. I nodded and she sighed. But she stayed the course, and even those brief moments together in 2015, including when though she had been ill she sat on the lawn with me one evening as dusk fell, are amongst my cherished memories of a wonderful companion.
The avurudu table of any Lankan home is complete only when it is laden with kevum. Dating back to ancient times, many types of kevum are chronicled even in our classical texts. The Dutch rulers of the island are said to have relished them, some even asking if they grew on trees… A delicacy which was offered to visiting dignitaries, kevum was revered by our kings even in the battle field not only as an energy-booster but also as a wound disinfectant.
BY RANDIMA ATTYGALLE
The culmination of Avurudu preparations in my childhood with my grandparents was marked by the ritual of Kevum-making. Athamma would ‘book in advance’ the kevum specialist Soida Hami (Soida aachchi to us children), and install a special hearth in her back verendah for the grand moment. I would watch Soida aachchi in wonderment as her thick batter of rice flour and best of kithul treacle shaping into kevums in a hot wok of coconut oil. The long kevum koora in her nimble fingers would achieve the feat of the perfect konde. It was almost a rite of reverence, so much so I was not supposed to talk to her until the first batch of Konda-kevums was completed. Like many old-folk of her vintage, Soida aachchi believed that talking while the first few kevums are done would result in a flawed product.
She would then place each perfect Konda kevuma on a banana leaf for the excess oil to drain. Once the whole exercise was completed, she would place Konda-kevum in large earthen pots and store them in the dum messa or the storage area above the main hearth of the kitchen. She would spare me only one kevuma and the rest had to wait until the auspicious time on avurudu day!
Travellers’ records
Robert Knox an English sailor who was held in captive in the court of the Kandyan King Rajasinghe II and one of the prolific chroniclers of ancient Ceylon in his famous work, An Historical relation of the Island Ceylon documents on the sweet meats of Lankans with a special account of kevum.
‘They have several sorts of sweet-meats. One they call Caown. It is like to a fritter made of Rice-flower and Jaggory. They make them up in little lumps and lay them upon a leaf, and then press them with their thumbs and put them into a frying-pan and fry them in Coker-nut Oyl or Butter. When the Dutch came first to Columba, the King ordered these Caown to be made and sent to them as a royal treat. And they say, the Dutch did so admire them, that they asked if they grew not upon trees, supposing it past the Art of man to make such dainties.’ (Spelling as in the original Knox)
The account of Knox enables rich insights into this wonder of a sweet meat which enthralled many a traveller to the island including dignitaries. The European trader Cosmas who visited Ceylon in 545-550 AD, documents that along with gems, Kevum and Kalu dodol from Ceylon were taken to the Roman court of Emperor Claudius during the sixth century.
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- Mun kevum
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- Konda kevum
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- Athirasa
Classical literature
Kevum dates back to ancient times and our classical texts such as the Ummagga jatakaya, Pujawaliya and Saddharma Ratanawaliya bear evidence to this fact. “Originally known as poopa this sweet meat came to be known as kevum in the Dambadeniya-Kurunegala era. Jathaka atuwa getapadaya mentions 18 kinds of sweet-meats found in the ancient Sri Lanka and among them are several types of kevum such as sendi kevum, mal kevum, athirasa, pena kevum, raa-kevum,” says Prof. Kusumalatha Lankamulla from the Department of Sinhala and Mass Communication at the University of Sri Jayewardenepura.
This scholar with research interest in Culture, Traditional and Modern Literature goes onto note that Mahawamsa in its 32nd chapter refers to two types of kevum in the context of alms offered by King Dutugemunu. The two types- thel kevum and maha de kuvum mentioned, were fried in ghee. “Many of our classical texts mention kevum in multiple festive contexts beyond avurudu. In Ummagga jathakaya, kevum is mentioned as a fitting gift to be taken when visiting parents. Saddharma Ratanawaliya refers to boxes of kevum or kevum pesa.“
Narang kevum
An energy booster
Among the popular kevum types found today are Konda kevum, athirasa, mun-kevum, naran kevum and hendi-kevum. Although the ingredients used for each type may slightly differ, rice flour and treacle (now largely replaced with sugar) remain common to all. The much sought after Konda kevum which is relatively a later addition to the range of kevum found here at home is believed to have originated during the Kandyan period says Prof. Lankamulla. “During the Kandyan period, men were prohibited from cutting their hair off and they had to tie it in form of a knot on top of their heads. Konda kevuma is believed to have been inspired by this practice.”
Traditionally, Sinhalese soldiers were given a bag of kevum when going to war. History has it that King Dutugemunu went a step ahead and used kevum to treat wounded soldiers. His army used to prepare kevum months in advance and keep them exposed to air so that the mould can grow on them.
This mould in today’s language had ‘antibiotic properties’ and was used on the wounds of the soldiers to prevent them from festering. “In a bid to undermine the pride of place given to kevum as a super food by the locals, the British coined the famous derogatory adage: ‘Sinhalaya is a fool but is an ace at eating kevum’. (Sinhalaya modaya-kevum kanna yodaya)
Steeped in tradition
Superstitious beliefs surrounding the process of kevum-making are not uncommon and these vary from region to region in the island, says Prof. Lankamulla. Regardless of the region, several common traditions were followed by our ancestors and these still continue to be observed in several parts of the country, she says. “The frying pan with coconut oil to prepare the kevum was kept on fire at an auspicious time and village matriarchs who were highly skilled were mobilized for the occasion. Women also believed that they must refrain from talking when the first kevum is being made. For centuries, the first kevum was considered to be the ‘konduru kevum’, dedicated to the sledge-fly or the konduruwa. The village women would hang the first kevum up for the insects so that the rest would be unspoilt.”
Sybil Wettasinghe’s work celebrating kevum
Prof Kusumalatha Lankamulla
With the passage of time, many Lankans, particularly city-dwellers depend on commercially available avurudu kevili including kevum. Although kevum is synonymous with avurudu, today people get to enjoy it round the year thanks to many sweet meat kiosks found in cities. Although these outlets have best sales during avurudu, they get plenty of orders from Lankans travelling abroad or coming home for vacation at other times of the year as well.
One such die-hard kevum fan is Uthpala Ranatunga from Ottawa, Canada. “My Loku amma (oldest aunt) makes it a point to pack me a parcel of best quality Konda kevum to take with me whenever I’m in Sri Lanka for a vacation.
I deep-freeze them for longer use and eat them sparingly,” says Uthpala to whom kevum is always a strong reminder of home. “Each time I indulge in them I feel nostalgic and miss home.”
Kevum is an integral part of the Lankan culture, finding its way from ancient classical literature to that of the contemporary including children’s literature and arts. The much-loved sweet meat is celebrated in the work of Sybil Wettasinghe – the iconic story teller and illustrator.
Come avurudu, we often hear the intonation of Lionel Ranwala, the eminent musician, vocalist and an authority on Sri Lankan folk music, whose tribute to the enduring legacy of this delicacy is one of the best in our times:
Me avurudu kale -sinaha weyan rale
Thel ihirunu kewum gediya wage…
Nethara Collection ,is a world of export quality garments in Diulpitiya, Boralesgamuwa, is infused with an ultra festive spirit this season catering to the women of today. Unbelievable offers and discounts from Nethara for Sinhala anTamil new year. On selection of women’s clothing, ranges from casual options to formal occasion wear,all at friendly prices,to enhance your wardrobe this festive season.
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Nethara clothing has long remained a name that has struck a chord with Sri Lankan shoppers. “We believe our success has been based up on the premise that absolute sincerity towards customers and no matter what the economic situation that prevails, we try our level best to keep our prices low and within everybody’s budget, said managing director, Nethara Collection Sampath Kumara.
This April season Nethara collection brings an all new collection of export quality seasonal wear. Celebrate the season with exclusive offers made just for you! Dresses, blouses, casual, formal wear denim, men’s shirts and many more… world of limitless style and joy!
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(Zanita)
Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau hosted a landmark event at cinnamon Life for an ambitious campaign to spotlight Sri Lanka as a top travel destination. This initiative hosted international influencers and local media to capture the unique charm of Sri Lanka’s destinations. These travel influencers will share thier real time content across platforms like Instragrams Tik Tok and youtube amplifying Sr Lanka as a must visit destination. Many media personal, bloggers and influencers participated in this event which will take them on a tourism travel featuring some of Sri Lanka’s top destination.
Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau (SLTPB) hosted a landmark event at the Cinnamon Life Hotel, Colombo. The event was led by . Deputy Minister of Tourism, Prof. Ruwan Ranasinghe, with the participation of SLTPB Chairman Buddika Hewawasam, officials, travel influencers and their families, as well as journalists specializing in tourism sector reporting. The gathering set the stage for transformative initiatives aimed at bolstering Sri Lanka’s tourism sector and redefining its global image.
In his opening remarks, Buddika Hewawasam underscored the challenges facing the tourism sector, particularly the seasonal dip in arrivals during the summer months. “The next few years will be the most challenging period for all of us,” Hewawasam stated, emphasizing the need for international collaboration and strategic development. He further highlighted the critical role played by international travel influencers and media professionals in raising awareness of Sri Lanka’s hospitality and inspiring tourists worldwide to visit.
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- Dileep Mudadeniya
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- Deputy Minister of TourismProfess or Dr Ruwan Ranasinghe
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- Guests
The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Prof. Ruwan Ranasinghe, detailed the innovative nature of the campaign and its importance in showcasing Sri Lanka’s rich heritage, natural beauty, and diverse travel experiences to mainstream and emerging tourism markets.
During the event, several prominent travel influencers shared their thoughts about Sri Lanka’s uniqueness as a destination. They highlighted that Sri Lanka is a country where travellers don’t need to worry about finding incredible experiences—nature has already done the hard work. The influencers remarked on Sri Lanka’s unparalleled diversity, noting that it is possible to experience a range of climates within just a few hours by travelling to different parts of the island. From sun-soaked beaches to misty highlands, and from lush forests to cultural treasures, Sri Lanka offers a world of adventures in a compact and accessible setting.
In comparison to destinations like Bali, which some influencers noted as overcrowded, Sri Lanka stands out with stable and balanced tourism activities. The event attendees were thrilled by the country’s warm hospitality, authentic DDirector cuisine with an impressive variety, long history, and rich culture. These qualities make Sri Lanka not only inviting but genuinely unforgettable for visitors.
Buddika Hewawasam, Chairman (SLTDA)and Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau
The travel influencers in attendance expressed strong confidence in their ability to share this powerful message with the world. They were determined to shape international travel trends by showcasing Sri Lanka’s unique appeal, while also helping to attract new types of guests. The influencers represented a diverse range of travel segments, including family travellers, solo female travellers, honeymooners, and adventure seekers. Their efforts were supported by Sri Lanka Tourism officials and journalists representing both local and international media agencies.
The ‘Sri Lanka, A Story for Every Season’ campaign represents SLTPB’s first large-scale effort to boost summer travel through digital storytelling and influencer collaboration.
Featuring a curated destination familiarization tour, the campaign will spotlight wildlife safaris, cultural heritage, spiritual pilgrimage sites, scenic landscapes, and adventure tourism. Influencers will produce high-impact content for platforms like Instagram, YouTube, and Facebook, reaching over 2.2 million travel enthusiasts globally.
Sri Lanka Tourism shared impressive winter peak season results, with international arrivals reaching 665,295 by March 23, 2025—a marked increase compared to the previous year. These figures illustrate the sector’s potential for growth, and the campaign aims to sustain momentum throughout the summer months.
The event was a call to action for stakeholders to unite in elevating Sri Lanka’s global tourism appeal. With plans to generate over LKR 32 million worth of media coverage and connect with diverse travel segments, the campaign underscores Sri Lanka’s commitment to redefining itself as a leading destination for year-round travel.
By Zanita Careem
Pix by Darmasena Welipitiya
Woman jailed over £39 donation to Ukraine freed in US-Russia prisoner swap
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Sun directly overhead Hatthikuchchi, Kalankuttiya, Halmillewa, Ipalogama, Palugaswewa and Habarana at about 12:11 noon. today [10]
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