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Eco Tourism and More Adventures at the Timberhead Eco Resort

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My elder son Marlon with me in the rainforest in 1994

Part 31 PASSIONS OF A GLOBAL HOTELIER

Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca

Family Back

After my initial trip to the eco-resort, I managed in the Amazon – Timberhead, I usually visited it during the weekends and during visits by important groups or journalists. When my wife and son Marlon arrived in Guyana for two short holidays, they joined me on my regular trips to the resort.

They also travelled with me to different parts of Guyana and took part in food festivals, events, and a few of my public relations (PR) activities at the country’s main hotel, Forte Crest / Guyana Pegasus, which I managed as General Manager. Eight-year-old Marlon liked Guyana and even attended school in Georgetown for a short period of time. However, after her second visit to Guyana, my wife returned to Sri Lanka. Marlon spent his summers in Guyana with me thereafter.

Eco Tourists

My new experiences in the rainforest and research about eco-tourism confirmed in my mind that, in general, hard-core eco-tourists were more educated, affluent, and committed to environmental issues than the majority of ‘sun-lust’ tourists. They were also more focused on protecting our planet for future generations and were often willing to spend more, though they could be more demanding. Tourists, Pegasus guests, and locals who wanted a quick taste of Guyana’s leading eco-resort often visited Timberhead in our large pontoon for day excursions.

I quickly learned the distinction between ‘sun-lust’ tourists and hard-core eco-tourists and adapted our products, services, and communication strategies to suit both market segments. The hard-core eco-tourists, who often stayed overnight or for extended periods, were driven by a passion for nature, environmental conservation, and cultural immersion. Their motivation was to learn, experience, and contribute positively to the environment.

These eco-tourists typically chose remote, less-developed destinations offering pristine ecosystems, such as national parks, wildlife reserves, and indigenous cultural settings. They participated in activities like hiking, wildlife observation, volunteering in conservation projects, and engaging with local communities to learn about their traditions and lifestyles. Most strived to minimise their ecological footprint, often travelling in small groups, adhering to ‘leave no trace’ principles, and supporting conservation efforts through responsible tourism. Their interest in authentic connections with local communities, respect for traditions, and active contributions to local well-being benefited all our staff at Timberhead, who came from the nearby village of Santa Mission.

Snakes

One day, the Supervisor of the resort, who was also the Village Captain of Santa Mission, removed an anthill close to one of the cottages. This angered a long-term guest at the resort, who came to me in an indignant mood and demanded: “How dare you allow your supervisor to break anthills in the forest! That is nature, and you must protect it as the operator of the key eco-resort in the country.”

I needed time to respond and promptly consulted the Captain. His response was clear: “Mr. Chandi, I was born in the rainforest and have never left it. I know much more about it than this Canadian tourist. Anthills attract snakes, which convert them into homes and live close to the resort. Therefore, it is for the safety of tourists that I break anthills built near the cottages.” The Captain’s rationale made sense. I stood by his decision and managed to somewhat calm the complainer by explaining the reasoning behind the action.

In my view, snakes created the biggest problem at the resort. To educate me further, the Captain shared another example: “Mr. Chandi, look at all the roofs of our cottages at Timberhead, which are now tall and sloped, as per my advice to your British company. Snakes cannot climb such roofs. At my village, all our roofs are similar. When the British team arrived here three years ago to construct the resort, they designed flat roofs without consulting the villagers. That was stupid. Luckily, your predecessor eventually consulted me. The rainforest is our land, and we know best how to be safe and survive.”

The Captain was right, and I continued to consult him on most operational matters, developing a good working relationship with him — except on one occasion.

Trying a Grass skirt at the Santa Mission village shop

The Prime Minister’s Nightmare

One day, our frequent guest at key events of Guyana Pegasus, loyal supporter, and my friend, the then Prime Minister (and later President) of Guyana, Sam Hinds, called me. “Chandi, I managed to find some free time this coming weekend. I would love to spend it with my family at Timberhead. Do you have a cottage free for us?” After checking the bookings, I called him back. “Yes, Sir. We have cottage for your family. I will accompany you, and everything will be on Forte’s account.” It was a good PR opportunity the hotel company.

The management team of Timberhead with a group of Journalists

The Hinds family enjoyed the four-hour journey with me, their visit to Santa Mission, and their accommodation and meals at Timberhead. During dinner, I asked, “Captain, any after-dinner activities for the Prime Minister’s family?” “Yes, Mr. Chandi. I will personally lead a one-hour night trail in the rainforest.”

Prime Minister of Guyana and his wife Yvonne at the Pegasus before the trip to Timberhead

Captain directed us on the adventure he was leading. We formed a human line, each person holding the hands of their neighbour. Captain held my hand, I held the Prime Minister’s hand, followed by Mrs Hinds, their daughter, and finally their teenage son.

At the start, Captain issued a big warning: “Whatever happens, don’t let go of your neighbour’s hand or attempt to return to the cottage alone. There is no moon tonight, and it would be impossible to find your way. Hold tight, and let’s march!”

As I held Sam Hinds’ palm tightly, Captain commenced his brisk walk. It was totally dark on this moonless night, but after a while, my eyes adjusted slightly, helped by the faint glow of foxfire — a bioluminescent effect caused by certain fungi on decomposing leaves.

Despite this faint glow, the darkness remained intimidating. The forest’s cacophony of noises and the occasional rustling near our feet heightened the tension. I felt the cold sweat of the Prime Minister’s palm and realised I was not the only one petrified. The thought of encountering a venomous snake only added to the fear.

Finally, Captain broke the silence: “We will now turn back. Thirty more minutes. Keep holding hands!” Relief swept over the group when we faintly saw the fire torches of the resort in the distance. Back at the cottages, no one spoke or thanked the Captain. The Hinds family and I retired quietly for the night.

Decision Lime

Tired and reflective, I looked up at the roof of my cottage that night and made two decisions:

1. Never to go on a night trail in a forest again in my life.

2. To ban night trails at Timberhead forever.

The next morning, after breakfast, I had a decisive chat with the Captain. “What was the likelihood of the Prime Minister or one of us trampling on a venomous snake last night?”

The Captain’s reply was unsettling: “Of course, it’s possible. This is the Amazon, and all types of snakes live here.” He elaborated: “Snakes are more likely to bite during the day when they’re warm-blooded. At night, they’re cold-blooded and tend to move away from footsteps. But, yes, there’s still a risk.”

Realising the gravity of the situation, I put my foot down. “Captain, I am not discussing this any further. From this moment, Timberhead Eco Resort is banning night trails. When I return to Georgetown, I will put this in writing.” The Captain was visibly displeased.

During our return journey, the Prime Minister was happy to hear about the immediate ban of night trails. I thought to myself, “If a guest were to die from a snakebite during a night trail, I’d probably end up in prison in Guyana!” The Captain didn’t speak to me for a month, but my decision, made in 1994, remains in effect to this day, thirty years later.



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Samarawickrama’s rise gives Sri Lanka a second pillar

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Harshitha Samarawickrama's advance as a T20 batter has opened up a new frontier in Sri Lanka's batting performance [Cricinfo]

Harshitha Samarawickrema was 14 when Sri Lankan women’s cricket first pricked the national consciousness. She had already been playing cricket for her school, Gothami Balika Vidyalaya, but had largely pursued cricket merely for the sake of playing a sport, and also because she had enjoyed watching the men’s team play. But watching Sri Lanka defeat England in a thriller at the 2013 World Cup stirred up a deeper yearning.

“I’d watched all of the matches at that World Cup actually – that was the first time those kind of matches were telecast,” Samarawickrama said once. “That’s when I decided I was going to play and win matches for Sri Lanka one day.”

That victory against England was a new dawn for Sri Lanka’s women for two reasons. First up it was the highest-profile victory on their ledger until then, marking an unexpected high point in a World Cup in which little was generally expected of the team. But it also marked the rocket-powered arrival of Chamari Athapaththu, who top-scored with 62 to help set up the chase.

Thirteen years later, Samarawickrama has not only fulfilled her promise to herself, she has also helped Sri Lanka bring to life the promise of that 2013 campaign. Athapaththu, who has since has become the superstar around which Sri Lanka’s cricket orbits, has never known a more consistent batting collaborator than Samarawickrama. In T20Is, the pair have put on 1,202 runs together – easily the best for Sri Lanka. Though both are lefties who revel in pressure, that’s about where the similarities end – Athapaththu having grown up idolising the big-hitting of Sanath Jayasuriya, while Samarawickrama had been a disciple of the Kumar Sangakkara school of left-handed batting. (Samarawickrama still tries to replicate that famous bent-kneed cover drive, though she invariably sprinkles a little of of her own flair to the endeavour.) Oppositions have found this combination difficult to contend with, Athapaththu commanding through the legside and brutal on errors of length, while Samarawickrama flits around the crease and carves boundaries through cover and point.

It has been clear for years now that Sri Lanka’s chances in pretty much any match depend primarily on Athapaththu runs. But Samarawickrama’s advance as a T20 batter has now opened up a new frontier in the team’s batting performance. Ideally, what Sri Lanka want is not merely big runs from their captain, but a strong partnership between Athapaththu and Samarawickrama. In victories, the Athapaththu-Samarawickrama stand averages 41.38.

More tellingly, a good Samarawickrama innings has become as reliable a predictor of a strong Sri Lanka showing as a good Athapaththu innings. In T20I wins, Athapaththu averages 40.18 and strikes at 131, in comparison to 17.94 and a strike rate of 94 in losses. Samarawickrama’s corresponding numbers are even more stark. In Sri Lanka victories, Samarawickrama averages 44.08 with a strike rate of 109. In losses those numbers are 16.94 and 87. Other Sri Lanka batters have leveled up in recent years too – Kavisha Dilhari, Nilakshika Silva and Hasini Perera having become more frequent contributors, while 20-year-old Vishmi Gunaratne has also showed promise. But 11 years into her international career, Samarawickrama now has a serious body of work.

Samarawickrama had been modest in the shortest format in 2025, but she arrives at the Women’s T20 World Cup 2026 having had a good six months. Against Bangladesh in April, Samarawickrama had cracked 61 off 35, then 49 off 29, in back-to-back matches that Sri Lanka won (Samarawickrama was top-scorer on both occasions). This was in addition to having put up good numbers in the ODI series that preceded the T20Is. Her 36 not out off 34 in a comfortable warm-up win against Netherlands suggests she is still riding on that form.

This is the first T20 World Cup in which serious runs are expected of Samarawickrama, and if history is much to go by, she is not the sort to be daunted by occasion. Samarawickrama’s finest moments as a Sri Lanka cricketer had come in their most-celebrated win of all, in the Asia Cup final of 2024, against India. Typically, that chase of 166 in Dambulla had been propelled by an 87-run Athapaththu-Samarawickrama stand, but when Athapaththu was dismissed, Samarawickrama ensured she remained at the crease until the winning moments, hitting 69 not out off 51, ultimately collecting the Player-of-the-Match award.

If 2013 was a new dawn inspiring a fresh generation of Sri Lanka cricketers, 2024 was the year in which the team hammered its stake into the ground, breaking through into an entirely new galaxy of recognition and acclaim at home. Frequently batting in the shadow of Athapaththu, but always charting her own path, Samarawickrama has grown into a leader.

[Cricinfo]

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US’ anti-migrant stance set to intensify tensions in Western camp

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Migrant boats land on Western beaches. Credit: PA

The announcement by the US authorities of an anti-migrant stance during a recent commemoration in France of the epochal D-Day Landings of June 6, 1944, ought to strike impartial observers as a supreme irony. Whereas what should have been expected was a vibrant celebration of the beginning of the process of Western Europe freeing itself decisively from Nazi or fascist control during the crucial stages of World War Two, this was not to be.

What the world heard instead was a call to contemporary Western Europe to arm itself against a seemingly rising and threatening migrant presence in the region. In other words, the migrant must be despised and ‘shown the door’.

Instead of a commemoration that rejoiced in the flourishing of liberal democracy and its values what one got was a strong affirmation of fascism and racial chauvinism. US Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth vented his spleen against the migrant or foreigner presence in Europe reportedly thus: ‘Sadly today different European beaches are stormed by different dangerous ideologies.’ To ‘beaches in Spain and Italy and Greece and Bulgaria, boats and men arrive. When will European capitals do something about that invasion?’

While at the outbreak of World War Two it was Nazi Germany that was doing the invading and bringing some principal European countries under its suzerainty, this time around we are being given to understand that it’s migrants to the West who are seeking to colonize the latter. It goes without saying that such inflammatory rhetoric would have the deleterious effect of keeping racial tensions alive in the West and jeopardize all possibilities of the countries concerned cementing and maintaining social stability.

The Trump administration gives the impression of taking a leaf from the politically underdeveloped regions of the South to keep the US polity stable and united. In South Asia, for instance, we are not short of ambitious demagogues who use what is referred to as the ‘race card’ to gather unto themselves a following and thereby further their political fortunes. By seeking to stir and sustain anti-migrant hysteria, the Trump administration is also essentially replicating Nazi Germany’s policy of anti-Semitism. That is, fascism is very much alive in the US under President Trump.

Such efforts at churning racial hysteria at this juncture in the US should not come as a surprise. For all intents and purposes, the Trump administration is nowhere near achieving its aims in West Asia, for instance, in the short term. It has failed to bring Iran down to its knees, as it hoped to do, but is adopting the expedient of keeping the world guessing and confused on what it is doing in the region, since it cannot withdraw from the theatre in a hurry without losing face.

While perhaps working out an escape strategy the Trump administration it seems, is hoping to maintain its following at home intact and silent by playing on their racial biases and insecurities. Hence, the anti-foreigner campaign.

Simultaneously, the Trump administration will need to keep a close eye on how economic pressures on the domestic front are panning out. Anti-administration sentiments first break to the surface at meal tables. On this score, the news cannot be good because the average US family’s spending power ought to be shrinking on account of rising energy and oil prices. Consequently, it would not be a bad idea to keep the attention of the US consumer diverted by adeptly playing ‘the race card’; once again, lessons from intellectually bankrupt Southern politicians are coming in handy.

To be sure such comparisons many politicians in vibrantly democratic countries would find quite unflattering. But the stark truth is that racism cannot be tolerated in civilized societies and those politicians who resort to it risk being branded as racists of the first degree. In fact they could be seen as being on par with the likes of German dictator Adolph Hitler and his close collaborators.

However, on the question of migrant policy the Trump administration would likely be at polar opposites with the most vibrant of liberal democracies of the West. This will be the case with the UK, France and Italy for instance. The latter continue to keep their doors open to legal migrants and they are likely to view a virtual blanket ban on migrants as reprehensible.

Moreover, in the foremost democracies of the West debates are vibrantly ongoing on the need to keep racism or any hint of it completely outlawed in the public plane. There is the case of the UK, for instance, where the authorities continue to emphatically pinpoint their adherence to the principle of anti-racism in the conduct of public affairs.

One proof of the above was the parliamentary debate relating to the killing of 18-year-old Henry Nowak in Southampton. Police handling of the victim came in for sharp scrutiny by particularly the opposition in the House of Commons but there seemed to be a consensus over the main political divide that the matter should not be politicized.

Moreover, the UK authorities stressed in the House the government’s strict adherence to the policy of non-racism. It was also pointed out that British institutions set up to manage racism at the national, county and neighbourhood levels, for example, were very much intact. In fact, Sri Lanka could gain considerably by studying and implementing locally, legislation modeled on the relevant UK laws if it is in earnest when it speaks of ‘reconciliation’.

Accordingly, it is highly unlikely that Western Europe would ‘cave in’, so to speak, to US pressure on issues related to migration. The liberal democracies of Western Europe in particular would remain for the foreseeable future migrant-welcoming, multi-ethnic and plural democracies.

Nor is it likely that Western Europe would be passively receptive to US demands that it drastically increases its defense spending to meet the latter’s aims. Within the Western fold the EU is remaining committed to backing Ukraine, for instance, in its ongoing armed resistance to the Russian invasion and it is not giving any indication of being deferent to US pressure.

However, although tensions would continue to bristle within US-Western Europe relations on the above and numerous other matters of contention it would be far too premature to announce a parting of company between the two sections of the West. In that sense, the post-World War Two order remains essentially intact. There are still many things in common between the two, particular on the economic plane, that will ensure the continuance of the partnership.

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A decade among Yala’s ghosts of gold

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YM75 "James" surveys his territory from a tree-top vantage point, demonstrating the leopard's commanding presence in the landscape.

The first rays of dawn creep over the ancient rocks of Yala. The Indian Ocean glimmers in the distance, and the wilderness slowly awakens. Somewhere amid the scrub jungle, a pair of amber eyes scans the landscape.

For wildlife conservationist and leopard researcher Milinda Wattegedara, moments such as these have defined more than a decade of dedication to one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic creatures—the Sri Lankan leopard.

What began as fascination evolved into a remarkable conservation journey that has transformed the understanding of Yala’s leopard population and placed Sri Lanka firmly on the global wildlife research map.

“Long before I ever lifted a camera, leopards had already captured my imagination,” says Wattegedara. “What fascinated me was not merely their beauty but the complexity of their lives—their hunting strategies, movements, reproductive behaviour and their remarkable ability to adapt to changing environments.”

That fascination led to the birth of the Yala Leopard Diary in 2013, an ambitious long-term project dedicated to documenting individual leopards and unraveling the mysteries surrounding their lives.

For many visitors, a leopard sighting is a fleeting thrill. For Wattegedara and his team, every encounter is a chapter in an ongoing scientific story.

“Each photograph was never the end of an encounter,” he explains. “It was the beginning of deeper questions. How did a particular leopard use the landscape? How did its behaviour change with the seasons? What environmental pressures shaped its decisions?”

These questions drove years of meticulous fieldwork. Every sighting was carefully recorded with details including location, habitat, behaviour, date and time. Photographs were analysed to identify individual animals through unique spot patterns, allowing researchers to distinguish one leopard from another with remarkable accuracy.

What followed was groundbreaking.

YF77 “Shelly” pauses in quiet observation, embodying the alertness
and grace that define Yala’s leopard population.

From 2013 to 2026, the Yala Leopard Diary identified an astonishing 189 individual leopards within the Yala Block 1. The research revealed a leopard density of approximately 0.524 leopards per square kilometre, making Yala one of the highest leopard-density landscapes ever recorded anywhere in the world.

Such findings have elevated Yala’s status among global wildlife researchers.

Nestled between the Indian Ocean and a mosaic of habitats, ranging from rocky outcrops to dense scrub forests, Yala offers an ecological stage unlike any other.

Here, leopards are photographed silhouetted against ocean horizons, perched atop ancient granite formations, resting on tree branches and stalking prey across sunlit grasslands.

The images tell stories of extraordinary lives.

There is Haminee, a devoted mother navigating the challenges of raising cubs in a competitive landscape. There is Lucas, one of Yala’s most frequently documented males, striding confidently across the Gonalabba Plains with the vast ocean forming an unforgettable backdrop.

There is Ruki demonstrating the species’ incredible strength by hoisting prey onto branches, and Shelly, quietly surveying her surroundings in a moment of feline vigilance.

Together, these individuals have become familiar characters in a living wilderness drama.

YM31 “Ruki” secures prey on a branch, illustrating the remarkable strength and coordination of the Sri Lankan leopard.

Recognising the immense value of long-term documentation, Wattegedara joined forces with fellow researchers Dushyantha Silva, Raveendra Siriwardana and Mevan Piyasena to establish the Yala Leopard Centre in 2020.

Located at the Palatupana entrance to the Yala National Park, the centre is believed to be the world’s first information facility dedicated exclusively to leopards.

“The centre serves as a repository of knowledge, accumulated through years of observation and research,” Wattegedara says. “Our goal is to connect visitors with the science behind conservation and foster a deeper appreciation of these magnificent animals.”

The project’s impact extends far beyond Sri Lanka’s borders.

Research arising from the Yala Leopard Diary has been published in internationally recognised scientific journals. One study introduced an innovative framework for identifying individual leopards, while another documented an extraordinary and previously unrecorded case of a leopard cub being consecutively adopted by two different adult females—first a relative and later an unrelated leopardess.

The discovery attracted international scientific attention and highlighted the complexity of leopard social behaviour.

Yet for Wattegedara, the most important lesson remains one of humility.

“One conclusion has become increasingly clear,” he reflects. “Our understanding of these leopards remains far from complete. We are only beginning to understand how they live, adapt and persist in one of Sri Lanka’s most dynamic protected landscapes.”

YF15 “Hope” descends Rukvila Rock at dawn, showcasing the agility and adaptability of Yala’s leopards.

His words underscore an essential conservation truth: the more we learn about nature, the more mysteries emerge.

As Sri Lanka navigates growing environmental challenges, the Yala Leopard Diary stands as a shining example of what sustained observation, scientific curiosity and public engagement can achieve.

Beyond the stunning photographs and remarkable sightings lies something even more valuable—a growing body of knowledge capable of informing future conservation decisions and ensuring that future generations inherit a wilderness where leopards continue to roam free.

For more than a decade, Wattegedara and his colleagues have followed the tracks of Yala’s elusive predators through dust, rain and scorching heat.

Their work has revealed that every leopard has a story, every sighting has significance and every photograph can contribute to conservation.

And perhaps, most importantly, it has reminded us that the golden ghosts of Yala still have many secrets left to share.

By Ifham Nizam

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