Features
DOWN THE RIVER TIBER
(Excerpted from Falling Leaves, an anthology of memoirs by LC Arulpragasam)
As a boy growing up in Ceylon, I had developed a fascination for water, whether lakes, lagoons, rivers or sea: I just loved being near them. Even as schoolboys, my friends and I owned two canoes in which we explored the country’s canals, lagoons and waterways. So in Rome around 1972, at the ripe age of 45 years, I was still hankering after my youthful days of drifting downstream on a rippling river! Unfortunately by this time, a chronic backache prevented me from sitting in a canoe for long periods. So I had to find a not-too-difficult river to navigate, and had to go downstream rather than upstream, in order not to battle its current. I had to find a cheap canoe, and someone who could swim, to accompany me.
An obvious choice was the river Tiber, which springs in faraway Toscana/Umbria and flows through Rome to the sea in Ostia. It presented some problems, however. First, since there are some obstructions to its flow through Rome, I had to find a starting point beyond those obstacles. Second, I had to find a suitable point for launching the canoe, which was not easy, because its banks in Rome are heavily built up. I had also to find a feasible point for pick-up at journey’s end, since otherwise we would be debouched into the sea at Ostia! After some reconnaissance, I decided to launch the canoe from a bridge across the river at Marconi, a southern suburb of Rome. We also had to find a point to be picked-up at journey’s end, as well as a place to stop in case of emergency – which needed to be reconnoitered in advance.
Looking for a canoe, I found a cheap one in a supermarket of all places: but it was an inflatable canoe, made of plastic! When inflated, it looked and handled like a canoe – except that on a later trip in the Adriatic Sea, it wafted uncontrollably in the wind, blowing us dangerously out to sea. But since it was light and comfortable, it would serve us well on the tame trip down the Tiber.
After assembling the canoe in our large living room, I decided that due to my painful back, I had better practise sitting in it continuously for two hours before I risked embarking on a long trip. So I grabbed my canoe accessories which included the paddles and a Kalutara basket hat left over from my canoeing days in Ceylon. Putting the hat on my head absently for the moment, I settled down in the canoe to read ‘The Economist’. Although this may have gone unremarked in my household, unfortunately my daughter’s friend from Canada happened to arrive in our apartment, just at this moment. My daughter, Shyamala, was leading her friend, Donna, to her room, when the latter had caught a glimpse of me seated in the canoe, with a straw hat on my head and oars seemingly in hand.
Taken aback, she said nothing until she reached her room, when feeling it her duty, she hesitantly told Shyamala ‘I think I should tell you that there is a strange man in a canoe in your living room in a straw hat, thinking he is going on some water’. ‘That must be my father’ replied my daughter nonchalantly, while continuing her conversation – as if this were normal. Donna told me later that she had therefore assumed that Shyamala’s father was ‘not all there’. It took a long time for me to live that one down!
I now had to find a companion with some swimming and canoeing experience – which was almost impossible to find among our Sri Lankan friends or colleagues in FAO. Fortunately, there was a Japanese Associate Expert, named Kunio, who was undergoing training in my Branch. He was very loyal and would often say in his broken English: ‘I love you, boss, I love you!’ I knew that because of his Japanese loyalty, he would follow me even unto death! Needless to say, he was overjoyed to join in this venture.
Now we needed to reconnoiter the river from the Marconi bridge down to the sea, in order to find a suitable pick-up spot at journey’s end – where a colleague named Samad, offered to pick us up. But we needed also to find a spot on the way that could be reached by car, in case of emergency. So we set out together to reconnoiter the river. After a few miles, we found that there was no access to the river from the road, since there was intervening scrub jungle between road and river, separated by a tall, barbed wire fence. So we climbed through the fence and plunged through the scrub jungle towards the river.
But as we neared the river, we heard the baying of dogs and were soon set upon by a raging pack of ravenous dogs, which apparently roamed this jungle, living on rats and rabbits. Although we were aware that some Romans in those days (1972) abandoned their dogs when going away on holiday, we had never anticipated this. We fled towards the road, jumping over shrubs, rocks and rivulets, followed closely by the dogs. Kunio and I being fairly fit, outpaced the dogs; but our friend Samad, in trying a flying leap over a stream, fell full flat into it. We ultimately managed to get back to the road, although our clothes were torn and bloodied by our wild scramble through the wire fence! We did manage to find a pick-up point near Ostia at journey’s end, but were unable to find any spot for emergency landing, due to the wild dogs in the scrub.
We made our final preparations for departure, including food and water to be carried, etc. On the night before our departure, I inflated the canoe in order to check that everything was alright. To my horror, I found that the canoe had sprung a leak! It was too late to get it repaired, since we were to leave at 6 a.m. next morning. Because I did not want to scare my family, I decided not to tell them about the leak, but decided instead to carry a foot-pump along to keep the canoe afloat by repeated pumping. At daybreak, my family escorted us to the launching site near the bridge at Marconi. The banks of the river are high at this point, with a very steep and rough descent through thorny bushes down to the river, which presented problems in loading our equipment. After carrying most of our stuff down, I got my son, Jehan, to throw the odds and ends down to us (about 12 feet) in the river below.
But when he tossed the pump towards me (rather carelessly I must say), it fell into the thorny shrubs on the riverbank, not to be seen again, despite prolonged search. We were now in a quandary. On the one hand, it would be really dangerous to set out on a day-long trip in a leaking canoe; on the other, I did not want to abort our trip after loading the canoe, just minutes before departure. Hence, standing down in the river, I had to admit to my long-suffering wife (who was standing 12 feet above us on the road) that there was a leak in the canoe, together with a plea that she goes to the supermarket to buy another air-pump for us.
If she succeeded in getting it, I begged her (by this time I was begging!) to bring it to the big bridge over the river Tiber (on the way to the Fiumicino Airport) and drop it down to me in the river far below. Almost in tears, my wife agreed to comply, because she realized that I was intent on setting out on the journey, with or without the pump. We therefore set a time by which we expected to reach the bridge, which was about three miles farther downstream, where she agreed to meet us. When we did reach the bridge, I was so relieved to find my wife already there with the pump in hand.
I shudder to think of what would have happened if she had not found a pump in the shop that day: for we could not have gone back to our starting-point, or to our destination point without sinking – thus becoming fodder for the ravenous dogs. The bridge is very high over the river at this point: so I could not climb up to her, nor could she climb down to me. With agreement reached by shouting, she threw the pump down to the river about 50 feet below, where I was able to retrieve it. Thus Kunio and I were able to continue on our way, though we had to re-inflate the canoe twice to keep it afloat. I always remember my wife with gratitude, when I think of her unfailing loyalty to me and my lost causes!
Although the Tiber was very polluted, it paid us back handsomely for our efforts to navigate it. We had consciously chosen to go downstream, so that we would be carried by the flow of the river rather than fight its flow. Hence it was a leisurely paddle downstream, steering the canoe with a flick of my paddle, while the flow of the river bore us onward. We had plenty of time to admire the scenery. Soon we were beyond the built-up parts of Rome and were greeted by scrub jungle and forest all the way down to the sea. The river itself was greenish in color, speaking of the many pollutants that it bore. But it was bordered by beautiful trees: weeping willows, plane trees and poplars. It was heavenly to glide along the river, listening to its gurgle and following its flow. Occasionally we would pass a lone angler and we did actually see one pulling in a very large fish.
It is necessary, however, to mention the level of pollution in the river. The water was turgid and green with the pollutants that it bore. And we could not fail to notice the number of condoms it carried! We must have gone about one-third of our journey when Kunio decided to start counting the number of condoms that we passed. Our count came to 76 condoms over two-thirds of the river until we reached its end! The Roman couples parked by the river had obviously been working overtime to send us so many love (french) letters downstream!
The river broadened as we came closer to its outlet to the sea. The trees grew sparser, with open, grassy plains. Nearer the sea, we saw large butterfly nets on the river (as used in China and Kerala), consisting of large square nets suspended in the water by long poles, which were raised mechanically to bring up the fish caught in them. After a couple of miles, we arrived at our destination where our friend, Samad, awaited us. Kunio and I then loaded our canoe onto my car for our triumphal return home.
We had traveled 22 kilometers down the river and had taken nine hours to cover the distance. Fortunately, we had had no mishaps along the way, although we had to stop twice to inflate our leaking canoe. I remember to this day the wild beauty of the lower reaches of the Tiber, its glistening green waters and its lush countryside, bathed in the angled light of spring. My family and I had seen most of the sights of Rome; but this trip provided me with a glimpse of the underbelly of the eternal city.
US Secretary of State Marco Rubio’s warning to the International Criminal Court (ICC) was stark: ‘Either the ICC will end its threats, or we will end the ICC.’ It followed US central administration accusations that the court was unfairly targeting Americans on the basis of trumped-up war crimes charges.
However, a new plethora of sanctions has been clamped on the ICC by the US, which in turn has spurred accusations by sections of the world that the latter has unleashed an ‘assault’ on the international legal order.
What some of the sanctions would mean for the ICC was outlined by Rubio: ‘We will ban transactions with this rogue court, cutting off their resources and crippling their ability to operate against us.’
The ICC has shown consistency of purpose over the years. Despite some operational constraints it has indicted a large number of political strongmen from around the world, accused of war crimes and other governance excesses that come under its purview. Two such recent figures are: Russian President Vladimir Putin and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu.
Rather than enjoy a mere nominal presence in the world community, the ICC has proved its effectiveness by detaining and bringing to justice scores of VIP politicians and others of their ilk who have been found guilty of human rights abuses and kindred excesses that come within the terms of reference of the ICC.
Accordingly, the international justice system would be stymied considerably as a result of the ICC being dis-empowered, particularly financially. Needless to say, potential and real perpetrators of the species of crime coming under the jurisdiction of the ICC would stand to gain most from such anarchic tendencies. That is, political repression globally would be enabled to enjoy a new lease of life.
A detailing of the types of crime coming under the purview of the ICC provides an idea of what it would cost the international community if the ICC’s operations are gravely hampered. They are mainly: genocide, war crimes, crimes against humanity and the crime of aggression.
That is, the part of the world to be worst affected would be the global South, since the latter is awash with the mentioned crimes. Needless to say, a chronically-disaffected South will sooner rather than later undermine the well being of the world dangerously. The world is already being put through these paces.
At the time of writing, ‘illegal migrants’ from the South, for example, are aggravating many a Western economy’s woes, besides creating for them acute law and order issues. The fact that these migrants’ presence goes on to become a virtual test of the migrant receiving states’ ability to forge domestic social inclusion in the face of jingoistic protests by mainly white supremacist groups is evidence of the latter. As is known, the US, to take just one example, has been up against this crisis for quite a while.
Accordingly, it will be in the best interests of the West if ‘illegal’ migrant arrivals on their shores are stemmed. If the socio-political and economic problems assailing the South are effectively managed through North-South collaborative, ‘trouble-shooting’ efforts the causes leading to ‘illegal’ migration and connected issues could be resolved at source as it were. For, it is the aggravation of the South’s material questions that lays the basis for the emergence of repressive and anti-democratic regimes in the hemisphere.
Until such time that the aforementioned issues in North-South relations are visited afresh and addressed urgently, a vibrantly functioning ICC would be needed. For, the latter would prove a deterrent to Southern political and military strongmen, highly prone to power abuse and like excesses, from coming into being in the wake of the South’s chronic material woes and the wars and conflicts that result from them.
It stands to reason then that the US would be acting in its own interests by enabling the ICC to perpetuate its mandate without hindrance. For a crop of issues that impinges negatively on internal law and order would be defused.
Meanwhile, there needs to be a meeting of minds among the rest of the West to put back in place a North-South dialogue process aimed at reducing some of the economic pressures that are weighing on the South.
Since economics usually drives politics it will be in the interests of the world community to scrutinizingly re-visit North-South issues of the past and put in place economic relief packages for Southern publics that would enable them to tide over their material hardships rather than permit the latter to aggravate into social disaffection and eventually armed militancy. It is the latter juncture that paves the way for the emergence of authoritarian rulers in the South who then go on to be a blight on their publics.
Accordingly, the Southern-based global development thinking of the past that envisaged a more equitable world economic order needs to be seen as an urgent need. That is, NAM’s international development paradigms need to be resuscitated to the extent possible.
It is unlikely that rightist governments of the West, such as the current Republican administration in the US, would find these projects feasible, but democratic states of Europe, led by perhaps the UK, are likely to think otherwise. For it would not be beneficial for the democratic world to be having on their hands repressive governments in the South who would be gravitating towards the major military and economic actors of the South, such as Iran and North Korea, who tend to be in constant power struggles with the West.
However, until such time that the mentioned, pro-people initiatives are given serious thought the ICC would need to be enabled by the international community to be in place comfortably and carry on with its mandate of bringing repressive rulers to book. Besides the ICC should pave the way for the peoples of the developing world to enjoy some substantial respite from the political repression and even terror which tend to be their lot.
Meanwhile, the wars of West Asia are relentlessly aggravating the economic hardships of people everywhere, driving the point home to enlightened sections that there is no alternative to peacemaking. A challenge is to convert the US under President Trump to this line of thinking.
This week, I give you five simple, time-tested homemade remedies that help reduce the appearance of blemishes, control excess shine and leave your skin feeling softer and smoother.
The Honey and Lemon Brightening Dab:
For stubborn blemish marks, this is a classic. Mix one teaspoon of pure bee honey with three to four drops of fresh lemon juice. Apply gently, only on the affected spots, and leave for 10 minutes before rinsing with lukewarm water. While honey soothes and softens, lemon helps to brighten naturally. Use twice a week in the evening.
Besan and Rose Water Oil-Control Pack:
An ideal remedy to combat shine, especially on the T-zone. Take two teaspoons of besan (gram flour) and mix with sufficient rose water to form a smooth paste. Add a pinch of turmeric for its antiseptic goodness. Apply evenly, keep for 15 minutes and wash off. It absorbs excess oil without over-drying, leaving a beautiful matte finish.
Aloe Vera and Cucumber Ice Soother:
Blend fresh aloe vera gel with the juice of a grated cucumber and freeze the mixture in an ice tray. Each morning, wrap one cube in a soft muslin cloth and gently rub over a cleansed face for 30 seconds. It calms, tightens pores and imparts a baby-soft smoothness.
Oatmeal and Curd Gentle Polish:
Roughness and old blemish marks need gentle exfoliation. Combine one tablespoon of finely powdered oatmeal with one tablespoon of fresh curd (yoghurt). Massage very gently, in circular motions, for one minute, leave for five minutes and rinse. It removes dead cells and unveils softer, clearer skin.
Multani Mitti and Green Tea Magic Mask:
Brew some green tea and allow it to cool completely. Mix one and a half teaspoons of Multani Mitti (Fuller’s Earth) with the tea water to make a fine paste. Apply for 10 to 12 minutes – do not let it dry and crack completely – and wash off. It draws out impurities, fades blemishes and bestows a fresh, shine-free glow.
A Gentle Reminder:
As with any natural remedy, always do a patch test on your inner arm first. For those with oily or combination skin, avoid heavy coconut oil application and harsh scrubbing, as they tend to aggravate shine and blemishes.
Dream of performing on a world stage? Well, here is your unique, golden opportunity!
The World Championships of Performing Arts (WCOPA) — the one and only official “Talent Olympics” — is the world’s premier global platform for aspiring singers, dancers, actors, models, instrumentalists, etc., to compete, shine and be discovered!
And, yes, this world stage is open to YOU, Sri Lankans living in Sri Lanka and overseas!
Held annually in glittering Las Vegas, WCOPA brings together over 70 countries, all competing for Gold, Silver and Bronze Medals, just like the traditional Olympics.
Lakisha Bernard: Will represent Team Sri Lanka at WCOPA 2027
Outstanding performers vie for the coveted titles of Junior and Senior Grand Champion Performer of the World, with winners and standout participants awarded over $500,000 in scholarships, cash awards and prizes to catapult their education and careers!
Sri Lanka is already making waves! At WCOPA 2026, Natharie Wickramasinghe, representing Team Sri Lanka, made the nation proud by winning a Bronze Medal in the Ethnic/Folklore Dance category!
Lakisha: Accomplished freelance Model and Fashion Design graduate
Recruitment for this prestigious competition is handled through a system of scouts and licensed National Directors — and this is where our very own Chris Rajendra, now based in Las Vegas, and National Director for Team Sri Lanka, comes into the scene.
If you are a singer, dancer, actor, model, instrumentalist — if you have talent burning inside you — contact Chris Rajendra today for registration and, who knows, you may find yourself in Las Vegas, and proudly draped in the Sri Lankan flag, at WCOPA 2027!
The contact address is: Chris Rajendra, wcopa.nationaldirector.sl@gmail.com
or chris.rajendra@gmail.com
Meanwhile, a star is born for 2027, in the form of Lakisha Bernard who is all set to represent Team Sri Lanka at WCOPA 2027.
Originally hailing from the sun-drenched coastal city of Colombo and now carving out her creative career in Canada, 22-year-old Lakisha is stepping into the international spotlight.
This accomplished freelance Model and Fashion Design graduate has officially been appointed as the Team Sri Lanka Promoter for Canada as she prepares to represent Team Sri Lanka at WCOPA in Las Vegas.
Lakisha brings a unique blend of high-fashion sensibility, captivating camera presence and expert garment design to the Team.
Having built her career, from local college shoots to high-glamour concepts, Lakisha’s inspiring journey embodies the true spirit of cultural bridge-building and creative resilience, bringing immense pride and recognition to Sri Lanka on the global stage.
WCOPA 2027 will be held at the legendary Westgate Hotel & Casino, Las Vegas, from 12th to 20th July – the very same iconic arena where the late, great Elvis Presley himself performed!
Your moment is now. Your stage is Las Vegas, so hurry and contact Chris Rajendra.
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