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Coronation chicken : The Story behind the royal dish

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Invented for a luncheon during the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, coronation chicken is a dish of diced chicken with a creamy sauce and touch of curry powder that has endured – and evolved – in British cuisine for 70 years. But how did it all begin and how might one find it today, especially in light of the coronation of Charles III and Camilla which took place on May 6

In 1953, the Minister of Works asked Le Cordon Bleu London culinary school – run by Constance Spry, a celebrated florist, and Rosemary Hume, a cook and author – to serve lunch at Westminster School for 350 foreign representatives invited to attend the coronation. As students were serving the food, and the kitchen at the venue was too small to produce anything hot except for soup and coffee, the menu had to be simple but also appropriate for such a historic event.

Out of this was born coronation chicken, or as it was listed on the menu, “Poulet Reine Elizabeth”. Served cold, the original recipe involved poaching chicken in water and wine before coating it in a creamy sauce consisting of mayonnaise, whipped cream, apricot and tomato purée, curry powder, lemon, pepper and red wine. The dish was accompanied by a well-seasoned salad of rice, green peas and pimentos a kind of Capsicum ( a large red-shaped pepper). Spry said she doubted any of those served the dish would have recognised it as a curry, instead describing it as having “a delicate and nut-like flavour”.

Coronation chicken was listed on a 1953 coronation menu as “Poulet Reine Elizabeth”

According to Freya Perryman, communications officer from Le Cordon Bleu London, “The recipe was created by Rosemary Hume and Constance Spry, with the main credit going to Hume, and we understand that students helped to fine-tune.”

Café Le Cordon Bleu and CORD Café’s coronation chicken bun

Exactly where the inspiration for the dish came from is a matter of speculation. Supposedly created for the Silver Jubilee of George V in 1935, a dish called Jubilee Chicken made with chicken, mayonnaise and curry powder is often said to be a precursor, but there’s very little evidence for this theory. Griselda Barton, Hume’s niece, is quoted in author and food historian Sue Shephard’s 2010 book, The Surprising Life of Constance Spry, as saying the main inspiration came from a recipe for Queen Adelaide’s favourite sandwich in the 1886 cookbook Savouries à la Mode by Harriet Anne De Salis. The recipe for Adelaide Sandwiches does include the diced breast of a fowl and is spiced with cayenne pepper, but, as food historian Annie Gray told me, “There is very little resemblance [to coronation chicken.”

Although coronation chicken is now famous as a sandwich filling, at the time of its creation it would have been a luxury. In 1953, post-World War Two rationing was still in place in the UK, and it was some time before chicken became an everyday ingredient. The recipe was first shared in the Constance Spry Cookery Book, published in 1956, but it didn’t really establish itself as a fixture of buffets and dinner parties until the 1970s and ’80s.

According to food historian Sam Bilton, “coronation chicken did become a more affordable dish to make, although modern iterations are quite different from Spry & Hume’s delicately spiced chicken dish.”

As early as 1980, recipes can be found that include seedless grapes, while sultanas were often included in stripped-back versions with little more than chicken, mayonnaise and curry powder. Many British celebrity chefs have also added their own twist to it over the years, including Heston Blumenthal, who was invited to recreate the dish – adding other spices, sultanas and nigella seeds – for Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee garden party in 2012.

Seventy years after its invention, coronation chicken is still ubiquitous across the United Kingdom and can often be found in sandwiches in the largest supermarkets and the smallest cafes. Perryman illustrated its enduring appeal by explaining, “This dish carries a sentimentality that makes people think of picnics and street parties. It’s also so accessible. You can adjust the spices, change the protein, use it in a salad or elevate the recipe for a dinner party. The dish has remained a proud part of our history at the institute, and we love to see how often it has been reimagined by a variety of chefs over the years.”

Asked how Le Cordon Bleu London will be marking this year’s Coronation, Perryman said, “At Café Le Cordon Bleu and CORD Café, we will be offering a gourmet coronation chicken bun [see recipe ) and a delicious fruit tart complete with crown decoration. At CORD Restaurant, the menu will feature a three-course set menu in celebration of King Charles III, comprised of his food favourites and considering His Majesty’s own ethos around sustainability and provenance.”

She continued, “This special menu will include the Coronation Lamb; a beautiful dish of organic British lamb with forest mushrooms, comprised of seared lamb loin, dry slow-roasted crispy shoulder, slow-cooked porcini mushroom and pancetta compote, pickled girolles, garlic cream, lamb jus and savoy cabbage. The dish has been created for CORD by Chef Emil Minev, Director of Culinary Arts at Le Cordon Bleu London.” BBC



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Kevum – Befitting a King

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Spinning a perfect konde is an art

The culmination of Avurudu preparations in my childhood with my grandparents was marked by the ritual of Kevum-making. Athamma would ‘book in advance’ the kevum specialist Soida Hami (Soida aachchi to us children), and install a special hearth in her back verendah for the grand moment. I would watch Soida aachchi in wonderment as her thick batter of rice flour and best of kithul treacle shaping into kevums in a hot wok of coconut oil. The long kevum koora in her nimble fingers would achieve the feat of the perfect konde. It was almost a rite of reverence, so much so I was not supposed to talk to her until the first batch of Konda-kevums was completed. Like many old-folk of her vintage, Soida aachchi believed that talking while the first few kevums are done would result in a flawed product.

She would then place each perfect Konda kevuma on a banana leaf for the excess oil to drain. Once the whole exercise was completed, she would place Konda-kevum in large earthen pots and store them in the dum messa or the storage area above the main hearth of the kitchen. She would spare me only one kevuma and the rest had to wait until the auspicious time on avurudu day!

Travellers’ records

Robert Knox an English sailor who was held in captive in the court of the Kandyan King Rajasinghe II and one of the prolific chroniclers of ancient Ceylon in his famous work, An Historical relation of the Island Ceylon documents on the sweet meats of Lankans with a special account of kevum.

‘They have several sorts of sweet-meats. One they call Caown. It is like to a fritter made of Rice-flower and Jaggory. They make them up in little lumps and lay them upon a leaf, and then press them with their thumbs and put them into a frying-pan and fry them in Coker-nut Oyl or Butter. When the Dutch came first to Columba, the King ordered these Caown to be made and sent to them as a royal treat. And they say, the Dutch did so admire them, that they asked if they grew not upon trees, supposing it past the Art of man to make such dainties.’ (Spelling as in the original Knox)

The account of Knox enables rich insights into this wonder of a sweet meat which enthralled many a traveller to the island including dignitaries. The European trader Cosmas who visited Ceylon in 545-550 AD, documents that along with gems, Kevum and Kalu dodol from Ceylon were taken to the Roman court of Emperor Claudius during the sixth century.

Classical literature

Kevum dates back to ancient times and our classical texts such as the Ummagga jatakaya, Pujawaliya and Saddharma Ratanawaliya bear evidence to this fact. “Originally known as poopa this sweet meat came to be known as kevum in the Dambadeniya-Kurunegala era. Jathaka atuwa getapadaya mentions 18 kinds of sweet-meats found in the ancient Sri Lanka and among them are several types of kevum such as sendi kevum, mal kevum, athirasa, pena kevum, raa-kevum,” says Prof. Kusumalatha Lankamulla from the Department of Sinhala and Mass Communication at the University of Sri Jayewardenepura.

This scholar with research interest in Culture, Traditional and Modern Literature goes onto note that Mahawamsa in its 32nd chapter refers to two types of kevum in the context of alms offered by King Dutugemunu. The two types- thel kevum and maha de kuvum mentioned, were fried in ghee. “Many of our classical texts mention kevum in multiple festive contexts beyond avurudu. In Ummagga jathakaya, kevum is mentioned as a fitting gift to be taken when visiting parents. Saddharma Ratanawaliya refers to boxes of kevum or kevum pesa.

Narang kevum

An energy booster

Among the popular kevum types found today are Konda kevum, athirasa, mun-kevum, naran kevum and hendi-kevum. Although the ingredients used for each type may slightly differ, rice flour and treacle (now largely replaced with sugar) remain common to all. The much sought after Konda kevum which is relatively a later addition to the range of kevum found here at home is believed to have originated during the Kandyan period says Prof. Lankamulla. “During the Kandyan period, men were prohibited from cutting their hair off and they had to tie it in form of a knot on top of their heads. Konda kevuma is believed to have been inspired by this practice.”

Traditionally, Sinhalese soldiers were given a bag of kevum when going to war. History has it that King Dutugemunu went a step ahead and used kevum to treat wounded soldiers. His army used to prepare kevum months in advance and keep them exposed to air so that the mould can grow on them.

This mould in today’s language had ‘antibiotic properties’ and was used on the wounds of the soldiers to prevent them from festering. “In a bid to undermine the pride of place given to kevum as a super food by the locals, the British coined the famous derogatory adage: ‘Sinhalaya is a fool but is an ace at eating kevum’. (Sinhalaya modaya-kevum kanna yodaya)

Steeped in tradition

Superstitious beliefs surrounding the process of kevum-making are not uncommon and these vary from region to region in the island, says Prof. Lankamulla. Regardless of the region, several common traditions were followed by our ancestors and these still continue to be observed in several parts of the country, she says. “The frying pan with coconut oil to prepare the kevum was kept on fire at an auspicious time and village matriarchs who were highly skilled were mobilized for the occasion. Women also believed that they must refrain from talking when the first kevum is being made. For centuries, the first kevum was considered to be the ‘konduru kevum’, dedicated to the sledge-fly or the konduruwa. The village women would hang the first kevum up for the insects so that the rest would be unspoilt.”

Sybil Wettasinghe’s work celebrating kevum

Prof Kusumalatha Lankamulla

With the passage of time, many Lankans, particularly city-dwellers depend on commercially available avurudu kevili including kevum. Although kevum is synonymous with avurudu, today people get to enjoy it round the year thanks to many sweet meat kiosks found in cities. Although these outlets have best sales during avurudu, they get plenty of orders from Lankans travelling abroad or coming home for vacation at other times of the year as well.

One such die-hard kevum fan is Uthpala Ranatunga from Ottawa, Canada. “My Loku amma (oldest aunt) makes it a point to pack me a parcel of best quality Konda kevum to take with me whenever I’m in Sri Lanka for a vacation.

I deep-freeze them for longer use and eat them sparingly,” says Uthpala to whom kevum is always a strong reminder of home. “Each time I indulge in them I feel nostalgic and miss home.”

Kevum is an integral part of the Lankan culture, finding its way from ancient classical literature to that of the contemporary including children’s literature and arts. The much-loved sweet meat is celebrated in the work of Sybil Wettasinghe – the iconic story teller and illustrator.

Come avurudu, we often hear the intonation of Lionel Ranwala, the eminent musician, vocalist and an authority on Sri Lankan folk music, whose tribute to the enduring legacy of this delicacy is one of the best in our times:

BY RANDIMA ATTYGALLE

Me avurudu kale -sinaha weyan rale
Thel ihirunu kewum gediya wage…

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Festive glamour at Nethara

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Nethara Collection ,is a world of export quality garments in Diulpitiya, Boralesgamuwa, is infused with an ultra festive spirit this season catering to the women of today. Unbelievable offers and discounts from Nethara for Sinhala anTamil new year. On selection of women’s clothing, ranges from casual options to formal occasion wear,all at friendly prices,to enhance your wardrobe this festive season.

Nethara collection, started small in 2017, but soon it outgrew, today with an ever increasing customer base, branded and non branded clothing this shopping centre has become very popular. Export quality , stylish dresses, crop tops, fancy blouses, trousers and many more to flaunt yourself and enhance your wardrobe.Their extensive collection, maintain low pricing allowing everybody to have a chance to shop till they drop dead. From casual wear to formal wear,they have women to men’s items like tee shirts, shirts for every occasion.

Nethara clothing has long remained a name that has struck a chord with Sri Lankan shoppers. “We believe our success has been based up on the premise that absolute sincerity towards customers and no matter what the economic situation that prevails, we try our level best to keep our prices low and within everybody’s budget, said managing director, Nethara Collection Sampath Kumara.

This April season Nethara collection brings an all new collection of export quality seasonal wear. Celebrate the season with exclusive offers made just for you! Dresses, blouses, casual, formal wear denim, men’s shirts and many more… world of limitless style and joy!

This festive season Nethara unwraps a celebration of warmth, style and sophistication. Immense yourself in a vibrant festive atmosphere as you explore thier collection under one roof 345 Boralasgamuwa With a focus on quality, affordability and customer satisfaction, Nethara export quality boutique invites you to celebrate the Sinhala and Tamil New Year in style.

(Zanita)

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Sri Lanka tourism unveils strategic vision

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Director Public Relations, Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau, Madubhani Perera,Dr Ruwan Ranasinghe with bloggers and influencers at the dinner hosted by Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau at Cinnamon Life. The travel influencers are from UK, Chole Gunning Sherifi, Hongkong,Cheah Yung Ham, Australia, Miranda Ralda, India, Vaishali shah

Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau hosted a landmark event at cinnamon Life for an ambitious campaign to spotlight Sri Lanka as a top travel destination. This initiative hosted international influencers and local media to capture the unique charm of Sri Lanka’s destinations. These travel influencers will share thier real time content across platforms like Instragrams Tik Tok and youtube amplifying Sr Lanka as a must visit destination. Many media personal, bloggers and influencers participated in this event which will take them on a tourism travel featuring some of Sri Lanka’s top destination.

Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau (SLTPB) hosted a landmark event at the Cinnamon Life Hotel, Colombo. The event was led by . Deputy Minister of Tourism, Prof. Ruwan Ranasinghe, with the participation of SLTPB Chairman Buddika Hewawasam, officials, travel influencers and their families, as well as journalists specializing in tourism sector reporting. The gathering set the stage for transformative initiatives aimed at bolstering Sri Lanka’s tourism sector and redefining its global image.

In his opening remarks, Buddika Hewawasam underscored the challenges facing the tourism sector, particularly the seasonal dip in arrivals during the summer months. “The next few years will be the most challenging period for all of us,” Hewawasam stated, emphasizing the need for international collaboration and strategic development. He further highlighted the critical role played by international travel influencers and media professionals in raising awareness of Sri Lanka’s hospitality and inspiring tourists worldwide to visit.

The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Prof. Ruwan Ranasinghe, detailed the innovative nature of the campaign and its importance in showcasing Sri Lanka’s rich heritage, natural beauty, and diverse travel experiences to mainstream and emerging tourism markets.

During the event, several prominent travel influencers shared their thoughts about Sri Lanka’s uniqueness as a destination. They highlighted that Sri Lanka is a country where travellers don’t need to worry about finding incredible experiences—nature has already done the hard work. The influencers remarked on Sri Lanka’s unparalleled diversity, noting that it is possible to experience a range of climates within just a few hours by travelling to different parts of the island. From sun-soaked beaches to misty highlands, and from lush forests to cultural treasures, Sri Lanka offers a world of adventures in a compact and accessible setting.

In comparison to destinations like Bali, which some influencers noted as overcrowded, Sri Lanka stands out with stable and balanced tourism activities. The event attendees were thrilled by the country’s warm hospitality, authentic DDirector cuisine with an impressive variety, long history, and rich culture. These qualities make Sri Lanka not only inviting but genuinely unforgettable for visitors.

Buddika Hewawasam, Chairman (SLTDA)and Sri Lanka Tourism Bureau

The travel influencers in attendance expressed strong confidence in their ability to share this powerful message with the world. They were determined to shape international travel trends by showcasing Sri Lanka’s unique appeal, while also helping to attract new types of guests. The influencers represented a diverse range of travel segments, including family travellers, solo female travellers, honeymooners, and adventure seekers. Their efforts were supported by Sri Lanka Tourism officials and journalists representing both local and international media agencies.

The ‘Sri Lanka, A Story for Every Season’ campaign represents SLTPB’s first large-scale effort to boost summer travel through digital storytelling and influencer collaboration.

Featuring a curated destination familiarization tour, the campaign will spotlight wildlife safaris, cultural heritage, spiritual pilgrimage sites, scenic landscapes, and adventure tourism. Influencers will produce high-impact content for platforms like Instagram, YouTube, and Facebook, reaching over 2.2 million travel enthusiasts globally.

Sri Lanka Tourism shared impressive winter peak season results, with international arrivals reaching 665,295 by March 23, 2025—a marked increase compared to the previous year. These figures illustrate the sector’s potential for growth, and the campaign aims to sustain momentum throughout the summer months.

The event was a call to action for stakeholders to unite in elevating Sri Lanka’s global tourism appeal. With plans to generate over LKR 32 million worth of media coverage and connect with diverse travel segments, the campaign underscores Sri Lanka’s commitment to redefining itself as a leading destination for year-round travel.

By Zanita Careem
Pix by Darmasena Welipitiya

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