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All about Sushi

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For the past 18 generations, one family has preserved a 400-year-old recipe showing how sushi once tasted, and it doesn’t use raw seafood, but fish aged for three years.On any fine day in spring, when the sky is clear and the waters of nearby Lake Biwa are calm enough for locals to go carp fishing, you can find Mariko Kitamura and her husband Atsushi at their shop Kitashina in the small Japanese town of Takashima making sushi.

With the dexterity and speed you’d expect from sushi chefs, they scrape off the fish’s scales with a knife, remove its gills and carefully angle a skewer down its throat to remove its innards without penetrating its flesh. But what happens next is truly unexpected. They pack the fish with salt, layer them in a wooden tub, weigh the lid down with 30kg stones and leave them to cure for two years. Each fish is then thoroughly rinsed, dried in the sun for a day and fermented for one more year in cooked rice before it is ready to be eaten.

This is not the kind of sushi you might get in New York or London, or even easily in Tokyo for that matter. It is the predecessor of what the world now knows as sushi – the original sushi – called narezushi (fermented sushi). Kitamura’s family has been making it for 18 generations, ever since Kitashina opened in 1619 in this remote corner of Shiga prefecture, and today the centuries-old shop is one of a handful of places left in Japan, and the world, where you can experience how “real” sushi is supposed to taste.

Narezushi

is thousands of years old and traces its roots back to the rice fields of China, where the method of curing in salt and fermenting the freshwater fish that lived in the paddies was developed to give the seasonal catch a long shelf life. It is believed to have arrived in Japan at the country’s ancient capital of Nara sometime in the 8th Century. For the next 1,000 years, until it evolved in the 18th Century into the slices-of-raw-seafood-draped-over-mounds-of-rice dish we know today, narezushi was a commonly consumed, nourishing and tasty source of protein. People would eat a few pieces of it with the fermented rice. They’d put a slice of it in hot water to make a medicinal tea. And they enjoyed it as a delicacy with sake at the tables of aristocratic and samurai families.

As a testimony to narezushi’s importance and the skill required to make it, Kitamura’s ancestor 18 generations back, Kuemon Yamagataya (Kitashina’s founder), was appointed to the entourage of Lord Mitsunobu Wakebe when he moved to Takashima in 1619 to take charge of the castle at the request of Japan’s new military leader, Ieyasu Tokugawa.

Unlike modern sushi, which typically includes ocean seafood, Narezushi was made – and still is in small pockets of Japan – with pretty much anything that swims in fresh water, including tiny loach, ayu (small sweet fish) and eel. But the kind of narezushi Kitashina makes is much rarer and is considered the true prototype of sushi. It is called funazushi after the type of fish used: funa (carp).

Carp is the king of freshwater fish in Japan, with the most prized being Japanese crucian carp (nigorobuna), which is the original type of carp used to make funazushi and the kind Kitashina features. It is a wild, rich-tasting species that’s found only in Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake and one of the oldest lakes in the world.

Today, there are just five shops around the lake that specialise in making high-quality funazushi, as nigorobuna has become very rare and hard to obtain. Other places, including souvenir shops across the prefecture, use more common types of carp and offer a comparatively ready-made version – funazushi cured in salt for one summer and fermented in rice for a few months in autumn – for tourists seeking to try its reputedly pungent taste. Among them all, Kitashina is the one making the most authentic funazushi by using nigorobuna and applying the oldest, most traditional preparation methods.

The good stuff is hard to get, though. Peak demand for Kitashina’s funazushi is from November to February when customers order it as a New Year’s treat, and later, to celebrate the arrival of spring. It can be sold out then, but a fresh batch, so to speak, is ready every year in mid-summer.

Before trying funazushi, Kitamura told me that it tastes like cheese – which it does, in its lacto- fermented, sour, salty and umami-rich way. It’s reminiscent of a funky and creamy type of cheese, given that Kitashina makes funazushi with the roe-laden female nigorobuna in season from March to May. Like many mature cheeses, funazushi is an acquired taste; a food that takes some getting used to. But then so is eating raw seafood for many people.

Kitamura, who attended the Kyoto Culinary Institute, took over the family business in 2013 when her father was ready to retire – partly because of her interest in food, but more importantly, to save the business from, literally, dying out. The beneficial micro-organisms that have thrived in her family’s traditional kioke wooden tubs for centuries, and which naturally produce the fermentation that gives Kitashina’s funazushi its authentic flavour, would die if the tubs were ever emptied.

Today, funazushi has become a luxury food across much of Japan, with Kitashina being the shop at which to buy it because of its refined, mellow flavour. According to Kitamura, that’s in part thanks to her grandfather, who, despite sushi’s growing popularity, continued to stick to Kitashina’s 400-year-old recipe of long fermentation and changing the rice once during the process. He also introduced the practice of serving it on a bed of sake lees – the sweet, rich paste left after pressing sake from the fermented rice mash – making the dish even more luxurious. Kitamura’s father, in turn, created the “Tomoe” style of beautifully presenting funazushi as a fan fashioned from the slices of a whole fish.

Kitashina’s funazushi is now featured on the menus of some of the most exclusive ryotei (traditional high-end Japanese eateries) and other top restaurants in Kyoto, as well as at similar establishments in Tokyo. Taking a cue from Kitamura’s grandfather’s presentation, chef Takumi Murata, of the L’Hotel de Hiei located atop the historical Mount Hiei overlooking Kyoto, serves Kitashina’s funazushi with wine jelly as an appetiser in the hotel’s main restaurant.

Compared to narezushi’s millennia-old history, the sushi we eat today is a mere footnote. Technically called hayazushi (fast sushi), it was created in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) in the late 18th Century as a fast-food version of narezushi to meet the needs of the city’s busy people. The newly bottled seasonings of fermented rice vinegar and soy sauce were used to recreate the essential sour, salty and rich taste of funazushi in the fresh seafood that was caught in Tokyo Bay. First, rice vinegar was added to cooked rice to speed up the fermentation process to just a few days. This practice also made the rice more edible. Later, freshly cooked rice was simply soaked with rice vinegar.

The gamechanger, however, was soy sauce, which began to be mass produced in the 1700s. As Issei Tomioka, a former employee at the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market in Tsukiji, wrote in his series The History of Nihonbashi Uogashi, “sushi would likely not have been developed had it not been for soy sauce.” Brewed for at least two years, traditional soy sauce is a concentrated form of salty-savoury umami. Initially, it was used to marinate the seafood toppings for a few hours to prevent them from spoiling and also to make them more appetising. As the fresh quality of the seafood improved, sushi was served raw with soy sauce as a condiment.

Sushi is a remarkable example of the way Japan adopts foods from other countries, in this case China, and then adapts and assimilates them into its own rich culinary culture. After thousands of years, sushi continues to evolve.

Currently, the pendulum is swinging backwards, and sushi chefs in Japan are now aging their seafood toppings for days, weeks and even months to give all kinds of fish the creamy texture and savoury richness of funazushi. Koji Kimura, chef-owner of the two-Michelin-starred Sushi Kimura in Tokyo’s Setagaya ward, has been serving only aged sushi since 2008 and is

considered its modern-day pioneer.

Closer to Takashima, Yoichi Akashi, the chef at Sushi Zabo in Miyazu City, is following the tradition of Kitashina’s funazushi by taking an already rich-tasting, fatty fish like akamutsu (rosy seabass) caught fresh from the nearby Sea of Japan or East Sea (as it is referred to in Japan and Korea, respectively).

But even as chefs rediscover the potential of weeks- and months-aged sushi, Kitamura is staying well ahead of them. In a corner of Kitashina’s storeroom, she has a small wooden tub of funazushi that has been fermenting for eight years and counting.BBC



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Charting a new course  for Sri Lankan tourism

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Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe on sustainability, growth and the future of tourism

Tourism remains one of the most powerful drivers of economic growth and cultural exchange in Sri Lanka.

As the tourist industry continues its post pandemic recovery and looks toward a more sustainable and innovative future, the role of strategic planning and policy direction has been more important. In this interview Professor Ruwan Ranasinghe, Deputy Minister of Tourism,, and a respected academic in this field shares his insight on the current state of the Sri Lankan tourism industry, emerging trends, challenges facing the sector and the governments vision for positioning Sri Lanka as a leading global destination.

With a vision focused on sustainability, innovation, and destination competitiveness, he is playing a pivottal role in shaping the future of Sri Lanka’s tourism industry. He shares his insights on the opportunities, challeges,and strategic direction of tourism in the years ahead. A first class graduate of Rajarata University and holds an MBA and a doctorate from Sichuan University, China. He launched Sri Lanka’s first Tourism and Hospitality Management degree at Uva Wellassa , endorsed by the UNWTO.

Excerpts of the interview.

(Q) Are you seeing a decline in visitors in Sri Lanka due to geo-political tensions?What segments of the tourism industry are most affected: luxury, leisure or group travel?

(A) Sri Lanka has not experienced a dramatic decline in arrivals, overall, but global geopolitical tensions do influence travel sentiment. The most affected segments are group travel and leisure tourism, as these travellers are more sensitive to perceptions of safety. Luxury tourism remains comparatively resilient, with high-end visitors continuing to seek curated, exclusive experiences.

(Q) Is Sri Lanka experiencing cancellations or postponements from travellers in conflicted zones? Are hotels and resorts reporting reduced occupancy linked to uncertainty in the region?

(A) Yes, there have been cancellations and postponements from travellers originating in conflict affected regions, particularly the Middle East. Some hotels and resorts have reported reduced occupancy during peak uncertainty periods. However, arrivals from other regions remain strong, balancing the overall impact.

(Q) What measures is the Sri Lankan tourism sector taking to mitigate the impact of local stability?

(A) The Ministry has adopted a proactive approach:

Transparent communication through embassies, airlines, and official tourism portals.

Safety protocols coordinated with law enforcement and emergency services.

Marketing resilience campaigns highlighting Sri Lanka’s stability and diverse attractions.

Stakeholder engagement with hoteliers, tour operators, and airlines to align strategies.

(Q) Do you expect a short-term disruption or long-term impact on Sri Lanka’s tourism growth?

Are you seeing early warning signs such as cancellations, reduced flight bookings or shorter stays?

(A) We anticipate short-term disruptions rather than long term setbacks. Early warning signs such as reduced flight bookings and shorter stays are being monitored. However, Sri Lanka’s fundamentals — diverse attractions, strong hospitality, and cultural authenticity — remain intact, ensuring recovery once tensions ease.

(Q) Boutique luxury tourism is often seen as niche – how central is it to Sri Lanka’s overall tourism strategy right now?

(A) Boutique luxury is central to our tourism strategy. It attracts high value travellers who contribute significantly to foreign exchange earnings while demanding sustainable, authentic experiences. This segment also diversifies our tourism portfolio beyond mass tourism, making the industry more resilient.

(Q) How is the government defining boutique luxury in Sri Lankan context?

(A) Boutique luxury in Sri Lanka is defined by personalised, small scale experiences rooted in cultural and natural heritage. It emphasises exclusivity, authenticity, and sustainability rather than sheer opulence, offering intimate stays in properties that reflect local architecture and traditions.

(Q) What makes Sri Lanka uniquely competitive in boutique luxury compared to destinations like the Maldives, Thailand and Bali?

(A) Sri Lanka’s strength lies in its diversity. Unlike the Maldives, which is primarily a beach destination, or Bali and Thailand, which focus heavily on wellness and nightlife, Sri Lanka offers a multifaceted experience: pristine beaches, UNESCO heritage sites, wildlife safaris, tea plantations, and Ayurveda wellness — all within short travel distances. This variety, combined with boutique hospitality, makes us uniquely competitive.

(Q) How do you balance encouraging foreign investment while preserving Sri Lanka’s cultural authenticity?

(A) We welcome foreign investment but ensure it aligns with our cultural identity. Guidelines require investors to integrate local design, employ Sri Lankan staff, and source materials locally. This ensures development enhances our heritage rather than dilutes it, creating partnerships that benefit both investors and communities.

(Q) Boutique luxury often interacts with sustainability – how is the Ministry ensuring that growth in this segment benefits local communities?

(A) The Ministry ensures boutique luxury growth benefits communities by:

Promoting local sourcing of food, crafts, and services.

Supporting eco friendly construction and operations in boutique resorts.

Encouraging community-based tourism initiatives where locals directly participate in guiding, hosting, and cultural performances.

(Q) How do you retain skilled hospitality professionals within Sri Lanka?

(A) Retention is achieved through:

Competitive compensation aligned with international standards.

Continuous training programmes in partnership with global hospitality schools.

Career pathways that allow professionals to grow within Sri Lanka.

Recognition programmes to celebrate excellence in service.

(Q) Where do you see Sri Lanka’s boutique luxury tourism sector in the next five years?

(A)In the next five years, Sri Lanka aims to be recognised as a regional leader in boutique luxury tourism. We envision a network of boutique properties integrated into cultural and ecological landscapes, offering world class service while maintaining authenticity. This sector will be a key driver of sustainable growth and foreign exchange earnings.

(Q) What markets are you targeting for boutique luxury tours?

(A) We are targeting highspending travellers from Europe, North America, and East Asia. These markets value exclusivity, sustainability, and authenticity — qualities that Sri Lanka’s boutique luxury sector embodies. We are also exploring niche markets such as wellness travellers and cultural enthusiasts.

(Q) How has the ongoing conflict between Iran and Israel affected overall tourism arrivals in Sri Lanka?

(A) The ongoing conflict has created uncertainty in global travel, particularly in the Middle East. While Sri Lanka has not experienced a dramatic decline, arrivals from conflict adjacent regions have slowed. To mitigate this, we are diversifying source markets, strengthening promotions in Europe and Asia, and reassuring travellers through diplomatic channels and tourism partners.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

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Serenity Tissa; Gateway to southern Sri Lanka’s timeless heritage

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Elegant architecture and traquil setting offers guests a peaceful escape

As Sri Lanka’s southern tourism corridor continues to attract travellers from across the globe, Serenity Tissa stands out as a destination where comfort, culture and nature come together in perfect harmony, offering guests an unforgettable journey into the soul of the island, southern heritage.

While many visitors journey through the Cultural Triangle in search of the Island’s ancient treasures, Tissamaharama itself stands as a destination rich in history, culture and natural beauty.

Set amidst this historic landscape of Tissamaharama, Serenity Tissa offers a unique retreat in the cradle of Southern Civilisation .

Nestled in the historic heartland of Tissamaharama Serenity Tissa offers far more than a comfortable stay, it delivers an experience deeply rooted in Sri Lanka’s Southern charm, cultured heritage and natural beauty.

Surrounded by the tranquil atmosphere of Tissa Wewa and located within easy reach of the famed Yala National Park, the boutique-style property has steadily earned a reputation among both local and international travellers seeking serenity, comfort and authentic Southern hospitality. Build on the grounds of an ancestral home, once owned by Patric De Silva, Serenity Tissa gracefully blends the warmth of a family residence with the conversion to a modern boutique-style hotel. Fortress inspired architecture, lush mango tress and peaceful open space create a welcoming retreat for travellers eager to explore the cultural and wildlife treasures of Sri Lanka’s deep South.

The hotel’s strategic location places guest close to some of the regions most treasured landmarks, including Yala and Bundala National Park, Tissamaharama Raja Maha Vihara, Kirinda Temple, Yatala Vihara and Sandagari Stupa, to mention a few.

For adventure seeking, safari excursions this place remains a major attraction, while those seeking relaxation they can simply unwind besides the hotel’s swimming pool or enjoy the calm beauty of the surrounding landscape. Serenity Tissa rooms are designed with simplicity and comfort in mind, offering a range of accommodation options suitable for couples, families and groups.

Managing Director Ajith de Silva dedication and commitment

Spacious interiors and warm hospitality have consistently drawn praises from guests from around the world. Dining at the hotel is another memorable highlight. The open air restaurant celebrates the bold and aesthetic flavours of Southern Sri Lankan cuisines with dishes inspired by coastal traditions and local village, kitchens. Fresh sea food delicacies, rich curries and fragrant spices combine to create a culinary experiences that reflects the region’s vibrant food culture. The executive chef Rushira, who has years of experience, said ‘At Serenity Tissa Southern hospitality with refined experience, inspired by Sri Lankan rich cultural and culinary heritage is bought to life in all our dishes. Ambul Thiyal. mouthwatering pol sambol, sea food kottu, all reflecting bold flavours of the south. The use of coconut milk, aromatic spices, creates a memorable culinary journey that introduce visitors to the local tastes.

His passion for authentic Southern Sri Lankan cuisine shines though every dish, offering guests an unforgettable experience. Under the leadership of the Managing Director Ajith de Silva, he has played a pivotal role in tranforning a family inspired hospitality, into one of Tissamaharama’s most welcoming boutique destinations.

Guided by his vision Serenity Tissa has emerged as a distinctive hospitality destination in Sri Lanka’s southern vision, offering the warm and personalised hospitality for which Serenity Tissa is renowned for. Frequently praised by guests, numerous reviews full attention, memorable guests experiences makes it a preferred choice for travellers exploring the historic attractions of the region

What is so special about Serenity Tissa is the personalised hospitality, numerous traveller reviews, dedication of the staff, a blend of warm Sri Lankan hospitality personalised services and authentic local experiences.

Ajith de Silva’s vision has helped position the property as a preferred base for travellers exploring the cultural and natural wonders of Tissamaharama Hotel The Manager Thushara Samarasuriya whose dedication and attention in detail have also contributed significantly to the hotel’s reputation for excellence.

Serenity Tissa offers a gateway to the history, culture and natural wonders of Southern Sri Lanka Under the guidance of its dedicated team, Serenity Tissa continues to create lasting memories for guests from around the world.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

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Sabina Yousaf shines as the face of Tiesh

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Sabina Yousaf, the newest face of Tiesh

Tiesh Sri Lanka, renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and celebration of Sri Lankan gemstones, has appointed Sabina Yousaf as the newest face of the brand. The partnership marks a significant milestone for both Tiesh and Sabina, uniting two names that embody grace, sophistication, and a deep appreciation for heritage and craftsmanship.

Sabina Yousaf recently brought pride to Sri Lanka on the global stage when she was crowned Second Runner-Up at the 41st Mrs World pageant. As the reigning Mrs World Sri Lanka, she has captivated audiences locally and internationally with her poise, intelligence, and charisma, becoming an inspiring figure admired by many across the country.

A successful businesswoman and passionate advocate for community empowerment, Sabina’s values closely align with the philosophy of Tiesh. Her commitment to giving back to society reflects the principles long championed by Founder and Managing Director of Tiesh, Lasantha De Fonseka, who has consistently emphasised compassion, generosity, and supporting communities, values that have also been instilled in the next generation of the brand, Thiyasha and Ayesh De Fonseka.

Sabina with the Directors of Tiesh (From Left): Thiyasha, Lasantha, Bryony, and Ayesh De Fonseka

Thiyasha and Ayesh – passionate about thier business

With a legacy spanning over two decades, Tiesh Sri Lanka has established itself as one of the country’s leading jewellery brands, celebrated for blending contemporary elegance with the natural beauty of Sri Lankan gemstones. Beyond jewellery, the brand has become a destination that educates and inspires, offering customers an appreciation of fine craftsmanship, artistry, and heritage.

Renowned for its dedication to excellence, Tiesh continues to uphold its legacy of creating jewellery that epitomises luxury, sophistication, and meticulous attention to detail. Every creation is thoughtfully designed and expertly crafted by skilled local artisans using the finest precious stones, reflecting the brand’s unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity.

Commenting on the collaboration, Founder and Managing Director of Tiesh, Lasantha De Fonseka stated, “Sabina embodies everything that Tiesh stands for: elegance, confidence, authenticity, and grace. Her inspiring journey, both nationally and internationally, resonates strongly with our values as a brand. We are delighted to welcome her into the Tiesh family as she represents the spirit of the modern Sri Lankan woman with remarkable strength and sophistication.”

Tiesh Director, Ayesh De Fonseka added, “We are incredibly excited to have Sabina as the face of Tiesh. She is admired both locally and internationally, and her presence brings a fresh sense of modern femininity and confidence to the brand. This partnership reflects our vision of positioning Tiesh on a greater global platform while remaining deeply rooted in Sri Lankan heritage and craftsmanship.”

Speaking on the partnership, Sabina Yousaf expressed her admiration for the brand and the significance of becoming its newest ambassador.

“For me, Tiesh is far more than a jewellery brand. It represents history, artistry, and an enduring passion for craftsmanship. What makes Tiesh truly exceptional is its deep connection to the heritage of Sri Lankan gemstones and the incredible artistry behind every creation. Each piece reflects elegance, individuality, and timeless beauty,” she said.

“This collaboration feels incredibly meaningful because the brand aligns so naturally with my own personal style, values, and appreciation for authenticity. I am genuinely grateful for the opportunity to work with a brand that I deeply admire and respect.”

She further added, “Jewellery, to me, is a powerful form of self-expression. It reflects individuality, personality, and confidence. The pieces we choose often tell a story about who we are, and I believe jewellery has the ability not only to elevate one’s style, but also to inspire confidence and presence.”

The collaboration between Tiesh and Sabina Yousaf symbolises a shared vision of elegance, empowerment, and timeless beauty. As the brand continues to evolve while honouring its rich legacy, this partnership further strengthens Tiesh’s position as a leading name in contemporary luxury jewellery. (ZC)

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