Life style
Pop crackle, gulp and gasp
Pani Puri: India’s favourite street food now available in Sri Lanka
Pani puri occupies a special place in Indian hearts and stomachs, so it’s no wonder that the treat has been one of the country’s most poplar street snacks
On any normal evening in India, in the bustling markets and noisy main streets of big cities and small towns alike, there is a familiar sight: the corner pani puri wala (seller), surrounded by a gaggle of eager customers.
His hands seem to fly as they dip the puris (fried discs of dough) into various bowls of fillings and chutneys and passes them out to people waiting impatiently. The vendor’s customer base stretches across age groups and social strata, with people stepping out of plush cars or families walking over from their homes. For the love of pani puri, and indeed of all chaat (fried snacks), unites Indians in a way few other things do.
Chaat is a catchall word – from chaatna, meaning “to lick” – that covers a wide range of street snacks, where different ingredients are usually tossed together to create a sucker punch of tastes and textures. India loves these small, satisfying snacks because they fill the perfect hunger moment, that is to say early evening, when lunch is a distant memory and dinner has yet to be cooked. And of all chaat, pani puri occupies a special place in Indian hearts and stomachs.
At first glance, pani puri seems like nothing special. The word itself is a combination of pani (water, which in this case, refers to the diluted chutneys) and puri (the fried discs of dough). The crisp, thin puri, which is about the size of a circle made by your forefinger touching your thumb, puffs up upon frying to create a hollow core.
However, eating a pani puri requires much attention and no small amount of skill: poke a hole on the surface of the puri with your forefinger, load it up with your chosen filling – such as mashed potato, healthy sprouts, finely chopped onions or mushy peas – and then dunk the whole thing into sweet-and-sour tamarind and spicy green chutney waters (both often kept iced) in quick succession. Finally, pop the whole package into your mouth and wait for the explosion of flavours, as the puri – ever so slightly soggy by then – crumbles inside your mouth with the sauces flowing out, all while filling the soul and clearing the sinuses at the same time.
Indeed, to eat pani puri is to be prepared for liquid dribbling down the sides of your mouth and tears streaming out of your eyes – an experience that is far more pleasurable than it might sound.

For those few moments, everything feels alright
It is no wonder that the pani puri is one of the street snacks that many indians love. Many home cooks have taken to recreating some of the magic at home, partly to satisfy chaat pangs and partly to feel the freedom of being able to walk the streets again
As education advisor Meeta Sengupta from Delhi exclaimed over email, “Pani puri is pure fun! Pop, crackle, gulp and gasp.”
Mumbai journalist Karishma Upadhya explained, “I think my craving came from a place of wanting something that made us feel happy and ‘normal’. When everything around is in such flux, it’s reassuring when you taste something that your mouth and mind instinctively know. When you put that pani puri in your mouth, you know you’ll get the perfect mix of cold, spicy, tart, sweet and crunchy. And, for those few moments, everything feels alright.”
While some brave cooks such as food blogger Amrita Kaur are making puri from scratch by kneading the dough to a perfect tight consistency, rolling out dozens of small discs, frying them in batches and preparing the fillings – most have used store-bought puris, purchasing them during careful grocery runs or utilising their pantry stocks.
There are many stories about the origins of pani puri. Culinary anthropologist Dr Kurush Dalal says that chaat (likely a predecessor of the modern pani puri) was first created in what is now the northern Indian region of Uttar Pradesh around the time of Emperor Shah Jahan’s rule in the late 17th Century. According to Dalal, royal doctors advised the general population to consume more fried and spicy snacks (and yoghurt) to balance the alkaline quality of the water from the Yamuna River, on the banks of which his new capital, Old Delhi, was built. The puri, which was to serve as “bite-sized containers of the chaat masala” (with fillings such as potato mash), spread to the rest of the country through migrant workers who moved to large cities like Mumbai and Delhi in the last century.

Like the most sublime chaats, pani puri is best enjoyed on the streets. And while upscale restaurants have started serving it in the last few years – with modern twists such as replacing the chutneys with spiced vodka shots and, shudder, guacamole fillings – their offerings rarely hit the spot. This is partly because street vendors know the palate of their customers and tailor each pani puri order accordingly – “Only the sweet-and-sour tamarind chutney”, “No sprouts please”, “Pile on the spice” – and each claims to have their own secret mixes of fillings and flavourings.
Food writer Anubhuti Krishna, who hails from Uttar Pradesh, loves pani puri but has not attempted to make it at home because, as she says, “I know I cannot replicate my favourite flavours at home, and they are sacrosanct for us UPwalas [people from Uttar Pradesh].”
Another reason could be that pani puri is best (or perhaps only) eaten by hand; there is no room for forks or finesse here. Kalyan Karmakar, culinary consultant and author of The Travelling Belly, a book on Indian street foods, describes eating pani puri as a “foodie adventure sport”, adding that “restaurants cannot recreate the thrill of standing on the pavement, unperturbed by people jostling past. Your eyes are focused on the pani puri wala. You have to be ready to pop it in [your mouth] when your turn comes.”
And even though pani puri is a perennial favourite across the country, it is by no means standardised or even similar everywhere. In fact, the name itself differs by place: pani puri is a Mumbai term, whereas in Delhi it is known as golgappa. In Kolkata, it goes by the name of puchka, and in Uttar Pradesh, it’s pani ke patashe (or batashe). The difference comes from the puri base ingredient – semolina, whole wheat or refined flour – as well as the fillings. And like with politics and cricket leagues, Indians like to argue about which kind is the best, and in each town, which pani puri wala makes it the most chatpata (lip-smacking).
Sengupta, who uses a ready-to-fry puri (a recent innovation found in stores), told me about her own Bengali-Punjabi household where the pani is “gingery sweet, with loads of hing (asafoetida) and pudina (mint)” and with “layered textures”. And Krishna, while noting that such food fights are silly, also adds that the Lucknow variety is her preferred version “because of how the softness and blandness of the matar (mashed peas) contrasts with the spicy water and the crisp and khasta (flaky) batasha.”
“It is [an] explosion in the mouth, yet it is soul food,” Sengupta said wistfully, perhaps summing up what millions of us Indians think of pani puri. – BBC
Life style
Sri Lanka eyes conservation-led tourism boost as Gehan urges integrated approach
Sri Lanka could unlock a powerful new economic pathway by integrating biodiversity, archaeology and cultural heritage into a single conservation-driven tourism model, according to author, banker and naturalist Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne.
Speaking to The Island, de Silva Wijeyeratne said the country possesses a rare convergence of natural and historical assets that, if strategically presented, could reposition Sri Lanka as a leading global destination for nature and heritage tourism.
“At the moment, these elements exist, but they are not fully connected,” he said. “What Sri Lanka has is extraordinary—a complete story of life, from ancient history to modern biodiversity. The opportunity is to bring that together in a way that creates value.”
His remarks come at a time when policymakers are seeking sustainable avenues to revive the economy, with tourism identified as a key growth sector. De Silva Wijeyeratne is currently researching his next book, ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing in the UK.
He said his recent field visit reinforced the untapped potential of integrated landscapes—particularly in the eastern region around Trincomalee.
He spent four days in Trincomalee with Hiran and Hashan Coory, two members of the senior leadership in Jetwing Hotels. Commenting on the visit, he said “Within a short distance, you have forests, marine ecosystems, archaeological sites and protected areas. This is not about isolated attractions—it’s about creating a connected experience that can compete globally.”
He noted that such an approach could continue to transform Sri Lanka’s tourism model beyond traditional beach-centric travel. “You can offer visitors wildlife, marine biodiversity and ancient history in a single journey,” he said. “That’s a very powerful proposition.”
Speaking more on Trincomalee’s potential, he said the combination of ancient history, the more recent colonial history and buildings, the beautiful beaches and coves, the snorkelling and marine mammal watching combined with the potential to create a huge national park that will have large mammals on the doorstep of the city means Trincomalee can become the city with the greatest tourism potential of any city in Sri Lanka.
“A vast national park on the scale of better-known parks such as Wilpattu and Yala can be created by connecting the forest reserves which stretch from Kantalai and through to the Naval Headworks Sanctuary, almost to the borders of the Trincomalee town” he says. “A new national park could be constructed with a network of safari roads and water holes and grass plains to increase the prey density for iconic mammals like the leopard. Trincomalee can then become a top land safari destination with an entrance gate to a national park just 15 minutes drive from the town. No other city will be able to rival it for land safaris, marine safaris, ancient and colonial history, staggering views and beaches and the heady mix of various ethnic groups with their religious beliefs, cuisine and arts. Trincomalee could overshadow every other city in Sri Lanka for tourism if developed properly”.
De Silva Wijeyeratne emphasised that conservation must be positioned not as a constraint, but as an economic enabler. “If you encourage and enable responsible visitation, it brings revenues to these areas,” he said. “That supports conservation and also creates livelihoods for local communities.”
However, he cautioned that development must be carefully managed to avoid damaging sensitive ecosystems. “You need development that is sensitive to these landscapes and the proper infrastructure to manage visitation,” he said. “The value lies in preserving what is already there.”
In addition to tourism, de Silva Wijeyeratne highlighted the need to strengthen Sri Lanka’s conservation capacity through international collaboration. He has proposed the introduction of a special visa to attract experienced global conservationists willing to work on a voluntary basis.
He referenced his article ‘A visa for bringing in expertise and expanding tourism’ which was published in The Island on Friday, 23 May, 2025, and is available online. In this he proposes a special visa to address four strands – volunteering, internships, academic exchange and short term study. The idea is that the visa should be as easy as to obtain an online tourist visa, but the visitor can now apply for a longer term visa for a declared purpose, such as volunteering.
He was careful to emphasise that the proposed visa is not for paid work and does not give the visitor special rights, and any relevant permits and permission need be obtained by the local partner. “There are people with 30 or 40 years of experience in research and conservation who would gladly come to Sri Lanka and contribute” he said. “If we create a proper framework, they can work with local organisations, share knowledge and build expertise.” Such a system, he stressed, would not undermine local employment. “These are unpaid roles—they are not taking jobs away. Furthermore, they will help locals to upskill,” he said. “They are helping to strengthen the system.”
De Silva Wijeyeratne also underscored the importance of science communication in driving conservation outcomes. Drawing from his recent lecture to the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society, he said public understanding of biodiversity remains limited, particularly when it comes to foundational elements, such as plant life. “In my recent lecture I started with plants because they are often overlooked,” he said. “In Sri Lanka we have the descendants of ancient plant groups, like lycophytes and bryophytes, as well as an abundance of the relatively more modern flowering plants (or angiosperms). They all form the basis of all ecosystems.” Sri Lankan researchers would benefit from international collaborations to describe and study the ecology of species found in Sri Lanka. As an example of the gaps in our knowledge, he pointed that it is hard to find online even a species inventory of Sri Lankan species of Lycophytes.
He further highlighted the interconnected nature of life, pointing to the role of microscopic organisms. “Every cell in our body contains mitochondria, and that DNA originated from bacteria,” he said. “So we are, in a sense, composite organisms built on ancient biological relationships. “This perspective, he said, is critical to fostering a deeper appreciation of biodiversity and the need for its conservation. “If people understand how interconnected life is, they begin to value it differently,” he said.
De Silva Wijeyeratne’s ongoing research for ‘Enchanting Sri Lanka,’ to be published by John Beaufoy Publishing, also touches on Sri Lanka’s layered history, including its colonial past. During his recent visit to Trincomalee, he visited the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, the brother of renowned novelist Jane Austen. “I read in the Bradt Guide to Sri Lanka that her brother was buried in the Esplanade Cemetery. There was an article online by Nishan Fernando in the Sunday Times where he describes how, in 1984, he and his father, Admiral Clancy Fernando, located the grave. Fernando wrote of the burial ground on the Esplanade in the middle of Trincomalee town, opposite the beautiful horseshoe shaped Dutch Bay.”
After a false start at another cemetery, using Google maps, de Silva Wijeyeratne with others, including Hiran and Hashan Cooray, some of the senior team from Jetwing Hotels, visited St. Stephan Cemetery which is around 400 meters from the Maritime and Naval History Museum. ‘We found the grave as described in the Sunday Times article by Nishan Fernando. But talking to various hoteliers and people in tourism in Trincomalee, we were struck by how many people were unaware of its existence. Hopefully, knowing that the grave of Rear Admiral Charles Austen, brother of Jane Austen, is roughly in the middle of St. Stephan Cemetery, in Trincomalee, will help others, with an interest in Jane Austen, to locate it.”
During his time in Trincomalee, with the Jetwing Hotels team, de Silva Wijeyeratne also visited Mederigiriya, Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. They encountered elephants on their visits to Seruwila and Velgam Vehera. “That brief visit alone shows how rich and complex Sri Lanka’s story is,” he said. “It spans pre-colonial, colonial and post-colonial periods.” For de Silva Wijeyeratne, the challenge now lies in translating this richness into a coherent national narrative. “This country has everything—biodiversity, ancient civilisation, marine ecosystems, etc.,” he said. “Few places in the world can offer such an all-round package.”
He stressed that aligning conservation with tourism and knowledge-sharing could deliver long-term benefits. “It’s about connecting the dots,” he said. “If we do that successfully, Sri Lanka can position itself as a world-class destination, while protecting its natural and cultural heritage.” As the country looks to rebuild and diversify its economy, de Silva Wijeyeratne’s message is clear: Conservation, when strategically integrated, could become one of Sri Lanka’s strongest assets. (Pictures courtesy Gehan de Silva) Wijeyeratne
By Ifham Nizam
Life style
Bringing the flavours and spirit of Jaffna to life
Long before the first dish was placed at the Jaffna food festival at Cinnamon Bentota Beach, a dedicated team of staff and culinary staff journeyed to Jaffna.
In the North they stepped out of professional hotels and into homes, road side eateries and bustling local markets. They observed, listened and, most importantly, tasted. The experience was as much about unlearning as it was learning.
They spent time with local people, women who have perfected their craft over decades, fishermen who spoke of the day’s fresh catch, spice vendors who explained the subtle difference in dried chillies and roasted blends.
They saw the liberal use of black peppers, tamarind and the depth of roasted curry powders.
In the end, what the team brought back from the North was not just technique or taste, it was perspective. What stayed most was the spirit of Jaffna, its people resourceful grounded and deeply connected to roots.
And so when the festival came to life in Bentota, it was not just a recreation, it was a reflection. They realised the heart of Jaffna is not only in its flavours but in its people.
Cinnamon Bentota Beach — signature selection celebrated the rich heritage, vibrant culture, and authentic cuisine of Northern Sri Lanka with its signature “Jaffna Night” recently. The evening was a heartfelt journey into Jaffna’s traditions, inviting guests to experience the warmth, flavours, and stories of this remarkable region.
- Time honoured rituals
- Jaffna’s bold flavours
- Warm welcome from heart of southern hospitality
- General Manager welcoming guests
Guests were welcomed with the traditional greetings, followed by religious rituals that set the evening in a meaningful cultural context. The highlight was the launch of the “Jaffna Culinary Journey” video series, capturing the resort team’s immersive exploration of Jaffna’s culinary landscape and community life.
From preparing local delicacies alongside villagers, to stepping into traditional homes, participating in early morning poojas, and wandering bustling fish markets; vegetable markets, the team discovered that Jaffna’s cuisine is inseparable from its identity, history, and community spirit.
Cinnamon Bentota Beach — Signature Selection shared reflections on the journey, emphasising how meaningful experiences can preserve and honour cultural heritage. The evening culminated in the official launch of the Jaffna Food Festival at the resort – a continuation of the journey that brings authentic Jaffna flavours and stories directly to guests in Bentota.
“Jaffna Night” was more than a culinary celebration; it was a testament to connection, culture, and the shared joy of learning through food and tradition.
By Zanita Careem
Life style
Sun Siyam Pasikudah paves the way in sustainability
Sun Siyam Pasikudah has added another milestone to its growing list of achievements by earning the prestigious Travel Gold Certification, a recognition that reflects the resort’s dedication to exceptional hospitality, high service standards and memorable guest experience. At this resort, sustainability isn’t just a concept it is a commitment. So driving eco conscious change, behind the scenes, is Chaminda Upul Kumara, shaping a hospitality experience where luxury meets responsibility .
Q: Sun Siyam Pasikudah has earned Travelife Gold Certification, covering 147 criteria, from energy and water to wildlife and community welfare. What did that journey genuinely push the property and the wider group to do differently?
A: Earning Travelife Gold was never just about getting the certificate. Working through 147 criteria covering energy, water, waste, wildlife, and community welfare made us look hard at ourselves and ask whether we were truly doing enough in each of those areas.
What it really pushed us to do was move beyond compliance. We tightened our conservation practices, improved how we manage waste, and put more deliberate effort into biodiversity and community programmes. But perhaps the most meaningful shift was weaving sustainability into the guest experience itself, making it visible and accessible without ever compromising on comfort or quality.
At the group level, Pasikudah became a working model. The practices we refined here have since been adapted and adopted across our other properties, creating a culture where sustainability is not a side project managed by one department but something that shapes how every team member thinks and works. It reinforced what Sun Siyam Care stands for: that responsible hospitality is not a goal we work towards. It is simply who we are.
Q: Most of the Sun Siyam story has been written in the Maldives. How does Pasikudah write its own chapter, given how different the setting, the coastline, and the community around it are?
A: When the civil conflict in Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province ended in 2009, our founder Ahmed Siyam Mohamed saw something in Pasikudah Bay that many others had not yet noticed. The calm, shallow waters and unspoiled beaches were extraordinary, but he also saw a region ready for renewal and an opportunity to be part of that through responsible tourism.
The property opened in 2014 as a 34-room luxury boutique resort, quietly introducing refined hospitality to Sri Lanka’s east coast. Then came COVID-19 and the country’s economic crisis, two of the hardest back-to-back challenges any hospitality business could face. Rather than simply wait it out, General Manager Mohamed Arshed Refai led a comprehensive transformation of the property.
The refurbishment was guided by international design firm Studio 67, but its real character came from a very deliberate decision: every single material used was locally sourced, and Sri Lankan artisans and craftspeople were involved throughout the process. It was not just a renovation. It was a recommitment to the region and the people in it.
That is what sets Pasikudah apart within the Sun Siyam family. The Maldives properties have their own extraordinary identity, but Pasikudah’s chapter is distinctly Sri Lankan. From post-conflict rebuilding to post-crisis renewal, it is a story of courage, community, and the belief that investing in a place means investing in its people.
Q:There is an organic farm on the property growing over 38 varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Tell us about that. It feels like it says something bigger about how the resort thinks about its place here.
A: The farm is a fairly direct expression of how we think about our responsibility to this place. At least 30 percent of our menu is plant-based, and being able to grow a meaningful portion of that on the property makes that commitment tangible rather than theoretical. Guests receive their welcome drinks made with fruit grown here. The chefs know exactly where their produce comes from and what it took to grow it.
We also have what we call climate-conscious dishes on the menu, options designed around sustainable food principles that prompt guests to think about what they are eating and where it originated. Beyond the farm itself, we source a significant share of our ingredients from local farmers and producers in the surrounding community. That reduces food miles and carbon emissions, but it also means the resort is actively supporting the local food economy rather than bypassing it.
Put simply, the farm is not a marketing feature. It reflects a commitment to operating in a way that is connected to this land and these communities, rather than sitting apart from them.
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