Features
HONG KONG-MACAU-CHINA – Part 45
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
Hong Kong – A Concrete Jungle
As the Manager – Operations for the hotel company in the corporate office of John Keells Group, 1981 was a busy year for me. As I was required to leave for Hong Kong for three weeks, at short notice, I quickly placed many of my projects on a back burner or delegated those to members of my team. Within two days after I was assigned the task of performing a special role of the Guest Executive Chef for a two-week long Sri Lankan and Maldivian food festival, I arrived at the Hotel Furama Inter-Continental in Hong Kong. Compared to what I had seen during my limited overseas travels before, Hong Kong Island struck me as the first, overpopulated concrete jungle I had visited.

The Furama Hotel, with 33 storeys, had opened in 1973 and was taken over for management by the InterContinental Hotels three years later. During my quick orientation by a Swiss German, Peter Luedi, the Executive Chef of the host hotel, I was most impressed with their revolving restaurant on the top floor named ‘La Ronda’. “This is our premier restaurant. Your food festival will be held here for lunch and dinner over two weeks. Our sales and marketing department has promoted the festival very well and we expect all buffets to be sold out. Let me introduce the three Chinese cooks who will report to you during that entire period”, Chef Luedi ushered me to the roof top kitchen. I was pleased that he was very optimistic, helpful and positive.
Cooking and PR
My extra (non-cooking) days before the festival were spent on event planning, fine-tuning the menu planning, special grocery shopping in local markets, advance preparations, public relations and promotional events. The food festival was a big success. By the end of the two weeks, I was exhausted from cooking virtually all of the dishes for sold-out buffets. My three Hong Kong Chinese assistants also worked very hard providing me with support, but they were totally dependent on my food requisitioning, food seasoning and the final cooking. I was also responsible for most of the buffet arrangements and decorations. After my final cooking for each meal and a quick shower, I appeared behind the buffet tables to explain the dishes to hundreds of diners.
I had five free days in Hong Kong after the festival was over. The day after the festival, I planned to rest the whole day, but I was woken early in the morning by the Public Relations Officer of the hotel. “Chef Chandana, you need to get ready quickly. We finally managed to arrange a spot for you to appear on the most popular TV show in Hong Kong, this morning!”, she said enthusiastically over the telephone. “What time is the interview?” I asked. “In three hours. I will drive you to the TV studio. The interview will take place simultaneously while you cook the most popular Sri Lankan dishes for TV. Let’s get ready!” she said in an excited voice.
I realized that this was the first time over a million Hong Kong TV viewers would see how popular Sri Lankan dishes were prepared. I quickly got ready and ran to the hotel stores to organize the ingredients I needed for my assignment at the TV studio. I was a bit relieved to hear that the show would be a pre-recorded program. When I arrived at the studio for the food demonstration, I was treated like an exotic, celebrity chef and an ambassador for Sri Lankan cuisine. I took that mini assignment very seriously and enjoyed my work in front of the camera.

A Tourist in Hong Kong
After that busy day, I took time to explore tourist sites of Hong Kong Island which was a very small area of 29 square miles. While Hong Kong Island then had around a quarter of a total population of over five million (five million population (today over 7.5 million). Kowloon and New Kowloon areas had half of the population of Hong Kong. Hong Kong had a high population density.
My tour guide explained that Hong Kong in Cantonese mean ‘Fragrant Harbour’. Hong Kong had been inhabited since the Old Stone Age three million years ago. Later, it had become a part of the Chinese empire, starting out as a fishing, farming and salt producing village. Then it had gradually become an important, free port and eventually a major, international financial centre.
This small island situated off the south-eastern coast of the Kwangtung Province of China had been under the British rule for 139 years, since the Qing dynasty ceded Hong Kong to the British Empire in 1842 through the treaty of Nanjing, ending the First Opium War. Hong Kong then became a British crown colony.
Japan occupied Hong Kong from 1941 to 1945 during the Second World War, and by the end of the war in 1945, Hong Kong Island had been liberated by joint British and Chinese troops and returned to the British rule. Hong Kong greatly increased its population with the refugees from Mainland China, particularly during the Korean War. In 1981 I sensed that in general, Hong Kong residents felt fearful and uncertain of their future if and when the territory goes back to Chinese rule in 16 years’ time.
My tour of Hong Kong was very interesting. I enjoyed the beach area of Repulse Bay, fishing towns and food streets. The panoramic view of Victoria City and its harbour from Victoria Peak, 1,800 feet above sea-level, was breath-taking. When I asked the tour guide about the beautiful, blue hills visible from a distance, he said, “That’s Kowloon and beyond.” Then he suggested, “You should join me tomorrow on a special day-long tour to Kowloon and New Territories.” I did not require much persuasion to join that tour.
Kowloon and New Territories
After winning the Second Opium War, Kowloon had been ceded to the winning side, the British, by China in 1860. The New Territories had been leased by the Chinese to the British for 99 years in 1898. While getting ready for my second tour, I accidently bumped into a few British tourists who used to visit Hotel Swanee frequently, when I was the Manager there. They were my friends and insisted on hosting me for dinner at their hotel. They also took me on a long, shopping walk on the famous Hankow Road.
Kowloon (meaning nine dragons) was different from the Hong Kong Island. Large ‘H’ shaped blocks of flats in resettlement estates were occupied by thousands of Chinese refugees who fled from the Communist China. As we travelled to the New Territories, more agricultural communities were visible. We also had a glimpse of the Shumchun River, the natural boundary between the British colony and the China. After that tour, I was determined to cross that invisible ‘Bamboo Curtain’. I thought of my father’s advice to me to visit China, and booked a two-day tour to Macau and Southern China.

Macau – Smoke-filled Casinos
The next day early in the morning, I left Hong Kong in a hovercraft boat to Macau. This very small (two square miles) island and the close by mainland areas of the territory added up to just six square miles. Macao had been under Portuguese rule for over 400 years. Although 95% of its population were Chinese, the official language was Portuguese.
The tour group which was predominantly British and Australian, enjoyed visiting many historic ruins, gardens and casinos. This was my first time visiting a casino, but because of the totally, smoked-filled atmosphere, it was not pleasant. For me, the most memorable thing I did in Macau was visiting the memorial house of Dr. Sun Yat Sen. The tour guide explained to us that Dr. Sun Yat Sen was considered as the ‘Father of Modern China’ and the ‘Forerunner of the Revolution’ in recognition of his instrumental role in the overthrow of the Qing dynasty during the Xinhai Revolution in 1911.
Southern China – Unprepared for Tourism
After visiting Macau we were taken in two tour buses to the south of the Pearl River Delta in the Cantonese-speaking province of Guangdong, for two nights. Wherever we went locals paid some attention to me as they were not used to seeing non-white tourists in China in 1981. We visited the city of Zhuhai which had been identified in 1980 as one of the original four special economic zones, as well as potentially one of China’s premier tourist destinations, being called the Chinese Riviera. Then we proceeded to the city of Zhongshan which is one of a very few cities in China named after a person. It was named after Dr. Sun Yat Sen (who is known in Mandarin as Sun Zhongshan).
Compared to Hong Kong, Southern China appeared to be totally underdeveloped in 1981.

Nevertheless, I loved the experience of being one of the early tourists in modern-day China. In terms of tourism in 1981, China was at a very early developmental stage, much behind small countries such as Sri Lanka. When he heard that I visited China, my father was pleased that I had commenced following his footsteps in becoming a frequent global traveller.
In 1981, it was difficult for me to imagine how China would become one of the four top tourist destinations in the world within 35 years. It is simply an amazing success story. In the year 2019, the World Tourism Organization also identified China as the # 1 source country in tourist spending for the year 2019.
Back in Hong Kong
I returned to Hong Kong just in time to attend a farewell dinner for the Sri Lankan and Maldivian delegates who attended the tourism promotion events. Hotel Furama Inter-Continental was grateful for my work as the Guest Executive Chef. I was thankful for their hospitality and support. The food festival was considered a great success in terms of publicity, food quality, diner satisfaction, revenue and profits.
The experience I gained in Hong Kong in 1981 was helpful in later years, when I organized four more large Sri Lankan food and culture festivals in Singapore (1982), Oman (1988), Guyana (1994) and Jamaica (1996), as the Guest Executive Chef and Event Coordinator. I considered organizing a large food festival in another country as the ultimate challenge in outside catering. Based on my experience in Hong Kong, I prepared a detailed checklist for organizing food festivals, which I shared with my team as well as with students of the Ceylon Hotel School where I was requested to deliver a series of guest lectures on my return to Sri Lanka.
Over the next couple of decades, I returned to Hong Kong a few times.
In 1991, I was able to arrange a Management Observer period at then the best hotel in the world – the Regent of Hong Kong. I was proud to hear that the resident band of this great hotel was the well-known Sri Lankan band, The Jetliners. My friends Tony Fernando and Mignonne Fernando (band manager and the lead singer of the Jetliners) arranged my assignment.

In 1992, I returned to Hong Kong to present a case study from Sri Lanka at the Pacific Asia Regional Tourism Education Forum, organized by the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) and the World Tourism Organisation. I was proud to meet two Sri Lankans leading PATA at that time – Lakshman Ratnapala, President & CEO and Renton De Alwis, Vice President – Asia.
In 2001, I returned to Hong Kong, to present a case study from the Caribbean. This was at the International Hospitality Industry Evolution Conference, organized by the Chinese University of Hong Kong and the Cornell University, USA. On that fourth visit, I felt the changing political climate of Hong Kong, under the Chinese rule.
In 2010, l was asked by my then employer, George Brown College, Toronto, Canada (where I worked as a dean), to spend three weeks in China to lead work assignments. Two members of my team of professors accompanied me. Our work was mainly at the Guilin University of Technology, with whom, George Brown College had an educational pathway agreement. During that trip I spent interesting periods in Guilin, Beijing and Shanghai.
In time to come, I will narrate stories about these memorable return trips to Hong Kong and China, in this column.
Features
Trump’s tariffs, AKD’s gazette and Sri Lanka’s diplomatic slumber
“We are rather respectable in Colombo. We go to bed fairly early, and we remain there till morning. “
According to Sri Lanka’s diplomatic folklore, the late S.W. R. D. Bandaranaike uttered these words while explaining the reasons for Sri Lanka’s abstention on the UN resolution condemning the Soviet invasion of Hungary. Apparently, SWRD’s foreign ministry officials were asleep at home when the diplomatic cable seeking instructions was received from New York. In those days, there were no cell phones, Internet, or even fax or telex machines. The diplomatic cables were sent through post offices. Decoding them was a slow and time-consuming process. Thus, the government could not provide appropriate instructions to our mission in New York in time, and the Sri Lankan delegation abstained on that sensitive UN vote.
Sri Lanka’s Absence from Section 301 Consultations
But then, how does one explain Sri Lanka’s absence from the crucial bilateral consultation held in Washington by the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) during March-April on “Forced Labour” under the Section 301 of the US Trade Act of 1974? Didn’t our foreign and trade ministries send appropriate instructions to Washington in time? Even if the instructions from the foreign ministry were transmitted to our embassy in Washington by pigeon carriers, there was enough time for Sri Lanka to participate in those meetings.
In March, the USTR initiated these 301 investigations on 60 trading partners, and invited all of them for confidential consultations. Out of the 60, 46 participated in these consultations. Sri Lanka was not one of them. Other countries that didn’t participate in these consultations included China, Russia, and Venezuela! In addition to that, the Section 301 Committee conducted a public hearing with interested parties on April 28 and 29. Washington-based diplomats, representatives from few trade ministries as well as representatives from many foreign trade associations and chambers participated in these hearings. Sri Lanka was once again conspicuously absent.
As a result, when the USTR published the proposed forced labour tariffs on June 2nd, Sri Lanka ended up with a 12.5% duty. Pakistani and Indonesian diplomats participated in these consultations and took appropriate follow-up measures, and managed to enter the 10% duty category. As even a threat of a modest tariff hike could disrupt supply chains and reduce competitiveness, particularly in an industry such as garments, I discussed this issue on 15 June and underscored the importance of Sri Lanka’s participation at the next hearing, which was scheduled to be held from July 7th .
Awakening from Diplomatic Slumber and AKD’s Gazette
Fortunately, Sri Lanka finally awoke from weeks of diplomatic slumber, and Ambassador Mahinda Samarasinghe participated in the public hearing on 9 July, and promised, “…. · We have agreed to the text in our negotiations with the USTR on forced labour, …. The gazette as we speak is being printed and I’m getting the gazette tomorrow morning, and the gazette will be shared with USTR as I get it“.
As promised, President Anura Kumara Dissanayake issued a gazette on 10 July banning the imports of goods produced by forced labour. These new regulations are very similar to what Pakistan and Indonesia enacted in April, after their consultations with USTR in March. Why couldn’t we do it in April? Why did we wait till the very last minute?
Challenges ahead
“War is too important to be left to generals alone,” is a famous saying attributed to former French Premier Georges Clemenceau. Similarly, monitoring our main markets is too important to be left to diplomats alone. The United States is the largest single-country market for Sri Lanka. Therefore, Sri Lankan trade chambers and associations should become more proactive in these markets and participate in these events. For example, the chairman of the Pakistani apparel exporters association participated in the April hearings. Similarly, representatives from the Indian Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority, the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry, the Confederation of Indian Industry, and Reliance Industries also participated in July hearings. At an event where each speaker is given only five minutes (strictly enforced), having a number of speakers from a country is an advantage. The presence of industry representatives in these kinds of events also help them understand the market dynamics and the future challenges. This is important, particularly because there will be many more challenges with Trump’s tariffs.
With the gazette issued on 10 July, Sri Lanka has imposed a prohibition on the importation of goods produced with forced labour. Now, the challenge will be to effectively enforce the prohibition. And what are the goods produced with forced labour? The USTR list only focuses on aluminum, cotton, electronics, lithium-ion batteries, rice, and tobacco. However, according to the U.S. Department of Labour, the list is much longer. Hence, this list may change continuously during the next two years and tariffs may fluctuate once again.
So, this is definitely not the time to slumber.
(The writer, a retired public servant, can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)
by Gomi Senadhira ✍️
Features
Tales of Mystery and Suspense 10 Casino for Sale
After the overwhelming grotesquerie of J K Rowling’s latest Cormoran Strike novel (written, I should have noted, as the others were, under the pseudonym Robert Galbraith), I thought I should return to the world of fun, and also a much shorter description since this thriller moves quickly without the layers of detail that Rowling engages in.
I then move to the second comic thriller by Caryl Brahms and S J Simon. This, their second story to feature Vladimir Stroganoff and Adam Quill, was Casino for Sale, as lunatic a romp as the first, though without the emphasis on the ballet that characterized A Bullet in the Ballet.
This one begins with the impresario Stroganoff buying a casino cheap from Baron Sam de Rabinovich, only to find that it was a rundown place, not the grand casino of La Bazouche, a resort on the Frenc+h Riviera, as he had initially thought. The grand one belonged to Lord Buttonhooke, and Stroganoff could not compete, until he thought of bringing the Ballet Stroganoff to the casino – which of course leads to Buttonhooke deciding to have ballet performances in his Casino too.
Stroganoff invites Quill to visit him, which Quill decides to do since he has left Scotland Yard, having come into a legacy. No one believes this, and he has to face questions as to what he did to have been sacked, with sympathy for having been found out.
The day he arrives in La Bazouche there is a murder, of a vitriolic critic called Citrolo, in Stroganoff’s office. He had been going to write a damning review of the opening night of the ballet and Stroganoff, when he realizes Citrolo cannot be swayed, drugs him and dictates the review himself to the papers. He leaves Citrolo sleeping and finds him shot the next morning, whereupon he decides to muddy the waters and leave a suicide note and lots of other murder weapons. So much overkill, as it were, of course ensures that he is arrested.
But the excitable French detective who makes the arrest follows up his suggestion that Buttonhooke was also involved, and so the two casino owners find themselves in cells next door to each other, with the detective Gustave quite happy to provide creature comforts for a fee.
Quill decides he must investigate, and finds Gustave most cooperative, since he has a laid back attitude to work. So it is Quill that finds a notebook which makes it clear Citrolo is an accomplished blackmailer, and that there are lots of possible murderers, including Stroganoff’s croupier, who was crooked, Rabinovich, who was now working for Buttonhooke, a confidence trickster called Kurt Kukumber, whose prospectus for a dud gold mine was found in the office and Prince Alexis Artishok who was engaged in a deal to buy diamonds from the ballerina Dyra Dyrakova.
Stroganoff had been trying to get Dyrakova to dance for him, but having done so previously she had refused. But then to Stroganoff’s chagrin she agreed to dance for Buttonhooke. The clearly crooked Artishok had told Buttonhooke’s mistress Sadie Souse, who was not very bright, that Dyrakova possessed diamonds she was willing to sell cheap, and Sadie was determined to have them.
Quill meanwhile finds out that there was a secret passage to Stroganoff’s office, the obvious solution to what had begun as a locked room mystery, and that this was known by almost everyone apart from Stroganoff himself. And then Rabinovich is murdered, just after Gustave had released his two original suspects, leading him to blame Quill for having insisted on that and thus allowing them to kill again.
Soon afterwards Dyrakova arrives, and the town is full of posters announcing that she will appear in the casinos, elaborate posters for either one, since Stroganoff is determined that she will dance for him, and if she does not come willingly, he has devised a scheme to make her do so unwillingly. So, though Buttonhooke has her taken off to his yacht immediately she arrives at the station, Quill along with Arenskaya gets her into a launch and to Stroganoff’s casino, where she performs to tumultuous applause, not knowing for whom she is dancing.
When Quill asked her about the diamonds, she said she had sold them long ago, and that gave Quill the solution to the mystery. Rabinovich had known about this, and Artishok had killed him to prevent Sadie learning it from him, he had killed Citrolo who had recognized him for an accomplished card sharper, not a Russian prince at all. But before he is arrested, he gets away in a boat, and the police launch that pursues him is on the point of catching him up when it runs out of petrol.
Again, lots of excitement, and entertaining references – Gustave grows marrows – and if not quite as brilliant as its predecessor, Casino was certainly a delightful read.
Features
The challenge of being positive about SAARC
It was a few years back that a former President of Sri Lanka took it on himself to pronounce SAARC ‘dead’. Since then there have been other sections of Sri Lankan opinion that have joined the critics of SAARC and taken the solemn stance that SAARC has indeed died what may be called a natural death.
Their fatalism is understandable. SAARC has failed to meet at heads of government or state level for the past several years to take the SAARC process notably forward. Regional cooperation has more or less been only an appealing idea. No substantive concrete projects have taken off to make the idea a hard reality. ‘Inner paralysis’ seems to be SAARC’s lot. Hence the fatalism in these circles.
However, being one of the worst cash-strapped regions of the world and a teemingly populated one with people virtually left to their devices, what choices do the ‘SAARC Eight’ have other than to try their best to band together and continue with their cooperation efforts, however small they may be?
There is no escaping the mounting debt trap for many of these countries and bankrupt Sri Lanka is a glaring example, but ‘throwing in the towel’ and abandoning themselves entirely to the diktats of the strongest economies and their agencies will prove a ‘living death’ for many countries in the SAARC fold.
The gains may be meagre but giving-up on SAARC cooperation in full would prove self-defeating for the organization and South Asia. Right now, the collective intention ought to be to salvage what the region could from the tenuous cooperative efforts. Moreover, such initiatives could go some distance to generate a degree of goodwill among the Eight and help in sustaining a dialogue process.
Given this backdrop it proved ‘a stich in time’ for the Regional Centre for Strategic Studies (RCSS), Colombo, to recently host the SAARC Secretary General Ambassador Md. Golam Sarwar to a round table discussion on the unifying potential of SAARC and its future possibilities, besides other related issue areas.
Held on June 24th and moderated by RCSS Executive Director and former ambassador Ravinatha Aryasinha, the forum brought together a vibrant, wide ranging audience comprising academicians, diplomats, senior public servants, civil society activists and many others. Following the presentation by Ambassador Golam Sarwar titled, ‘Reigniting SAARC: Achievements, Challenges and the Way Ahead’, a lively Q&A followed.
The above forum could be described as an act of lighting the proverbial ‘candle’ rather than ‘cursing the darkness.’ It surely is a ‘darkness’ that could be seen as daunting considering that the region’s pivotal powers, India and Pakistan, are failing to act in a spirit of accord but are engaged in bitter finger-pointing on a number of questions of vital importance to SAARC.
On the other hand, what is the rest of the region doing to bring the above sides together? It is disappointing that to date the rest of SAARC has failed to launch a major diplomatic drive to bring peace between the feuding regional heavyweights. It needs to act without delay and establish its earnestness and this effort would need to prove SAARC’s staying power in the unfolding months and even years.
In assessing SAARC’s seeming failure local opinion in particular has failed to factor in what could be described as weak leadership. Since Sheikh Mujibur Rahman of Bangladesh, the founding father of SAARC, the region has failed to produce a visionary leader who could advance the SAARC cause with charisma and drive.
Among other reasons, weak leadership accounts considerably for the faltering and stuttering status, as it were, of SAARC. Badly needed are leaders who could go the extra mile, think less of narrow national interests and work diligently towards the collective well being of the region but SAARC’s millions of ordinary people have been made to wait in vain for leaders of such stature. Instead, they have been burdened with politicians who seem to be relishing the apparently moribund state of SAARC.
Looking back, it could be said that it was the dynamic leadership factor that led to the launching of the Non-Aligned Movement and for its sustenance for a few decades. True, it could be seen in some quarters that NAM is no more, but as in the case of SAARC, the former too has been unfortunate to be burdened over the years with politicians who lack the vision and drive to unflaggingly advance the fortunes of the South. NAM and SAARC lack the dynamism and vision of leaders of the stature of Jawaharlal Nehru, for example, to give them the required guidance and intellectual depth.
The reasons are complex for there not being among us currently political leaders with the vision and the steadfast commitment to advance the legitimate interests of the South. However, it could be stated with conviction that the majority of Southern leaders have too easily caved in to the demands of the global North and its financial agencies.
These leaders have failed to see, for instance, that the largely market economy oriented Northern governments would not view with favour a centrist economic model that attaches priority to the interests of the dis-empowered publics of the South. This realization ought to have dawned on the current government in Sri Lanka, for instance, some while ago but it has no choice but to abide by IMF dictates since economic survival at present is unthinkable without the latter’s succour.
Accordingly for SAARC this should be the time for some soul-searching. Priority needs to be attached to ending the feuding between India and Pakistan since at present the material fortunes of the region hinge largely on these regional giants giving peaceful relations among them a try. This is no easy challenge to meet but some daring, visionary diplomacy needs to take hold among the rest of SAARC.
There is some sense in SAARC bringing the peoples of the region together through programs that address their best collective interests. A meeting of minds among SAARC nations could enable SAARC and its agencies to build a region-wide people’s movement for progressive political and economic change that could in turn lead to the region’s political leaders sensitizing themselves more to the neglected needs of their publics.
However, the time is ‘now’ for the initiation of these progressive changes and the voice of SAARC well wishers would need to drown out those of their critics.
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