Features
Rejected From Romania, back to Bulgaria, Yugoslavia & Austria
CONFESSIONS OF A GLOBAL GYPSY
By Dr. Chandana (Chandi) Jayawardena DPhil
President – Chandi J. Associates Inc. Consulting, Canada
Founder & Administrator – Global Hospitality Forum
chandij@sympatico.ca
My wife and I faced a few unexpected challenges during our winter adventure in 1985. However, without knowing that the worst was yet to come, we were generally
optimistic. We were keen to create a series of unique memories by visiting over 16 countries within a period of six weeks in middle of the winter.
During a memorable visit to Austria in 1982, I was fascinated to listen to our good family friends from Austria, Biggi and Wolfgang Fernau, talk about their heritage and the history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They told us that they were true Viennese, Biggi with an Austrian and Czechoslovakian blend and Wolf with an Austrian and Hungarian blend. They were proud of their heritage and the history of their country.
The Austro-Hungarian Empire was a dual monarchy and a constitutional monarchy. It was a great power in Central Europe between 1867 and 1918. It was formed with the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867 in the aftermath of the Austro-Prussian War. In 1878, Austria-Hungary unilaterally occupied the Ottoman provinces of Bosnia-Herzegovina and Novi Pazar. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was not as large as the Ottoman or Turkish Empire (which survived for 623 years) but expanded rapidly in five decades.
Being an imperial power doesn’t impress most people the way it used to during the colonial past. All empire building in history stemmed from human greed for power, often ending with unjustifiable death, shameful disruptions and human right violations. All empires have a life span. The length of the Austro-Hungarian Empire rule was particularly short. It existed for only 51 years when the empire was dissolved after its defeat during the First World War. Nevertheless, it was amazing that a young empire, within a short period of time, had controlled an area of 621,538 km2.
It was a multinational state and one of Europe’s major powers at the time. Austria-Hungary was geographically the second-largest country in Europe after the Russian Empire, and the third-most populous (after Russia and the German Empires). The Austro-Hungarian Empire built up the fourth largest machine building industry in the world, after the United States, Germany and the United Kingdom.
Although my wife was not overly motivated about an expanded tour, I was keen to visit many parts of this past empire, before we went to Vienna to meet our Austrian friends. “We are already in the middle of that former empire, so why not explore the key cities of it?” I asked my wife with an aim of convincing her by showing the following map. “The dotted lines show the balance we need to cover by train”, I made it appear easy to achieve.
We then planned to continue our travel by train with stops in Bucharest in Romania, Budapest in Hungary, Bratislava and Prague in Czechoslovakia and then end up in Vienna in Austria for a longer visit. As we had already visited some key parts of the former Yugoslavia (Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Serbia), we decided to explore Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria next.

BULGARIA
Bulgaria is a small country situated in the east of the Balkans. Its diverse terrain encompasses the Black Sea coastline, a mountainous interior and rivers, including the Danube. A cultural melting pot with Greek, Slavic, Ottoman, and Persian influences, it has a rich heritage of traditional dances, music, costumes and crafts. In 1946, Bulgaria came under the Soviet-led Eastern Bloc and became a socialist state. The country faced a demographic crisis with its population shrinking from nine million in 1985 to roughly 6.5 million in 2022.
The history of the capital city Sofia, dates to the 5th century BC. 1.2 million or 13% of Bulgaria’s population in 1985, lived in Sofia. When we reached Sofia around 2:00 am, we were very tired and needed a full night sleep before any more tours. Unfortunately, all of the smaller hotels were full and the only available room in the city was at Novotel Europa, which was too expensive for us.
The taxi driver who drove us to find an affordable hotel wasted our time by taking us around the city without finding one. When we realized that he was simply going round to keep his meter ticking, we insisted that he returns us to the railway station. He did so but overcharged us. We managed to get a few hours sleep in the heated but crowded rest room of the main railway station until armed guards arrived around 6:00 am to chase away all the those resting there, including the both of us.
We decided to stay around the station until the information counter opened and had the worst possible meal at the only nearby restaurant open at that time. Our standing breakfast at a high table included dry bread, salty gherkins, sliced sausages and black coffee. Their menu had no other choices. Finally, when the information counter was opened by a rude woman, we managed to book a room in a nearby hotel who charged us much more than the agreed rate. We felt that Bulgaria was certainly not ready for tourism in 1985.
Later I did a city taxi tour of Sofia with a guide and on foot. My wife did not join me as she preferred to catch up on her sleep. I was shown some TV towers, which the guide claimed to be the tallest in Europe. He also took me to museums, monuments, the national assembly and a Turkish fort. At the end of the tour, I was taken to St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral which is an impressive landmark in Sofia. The church was built as a memorial to the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish Liberation War (1877-1878).
When our train to Bucharest left around 10:00 pm, we decided that we would never return to Sofia again. That decision was short lived. As usual, the compartments were freezing cold and we were asked by the guard to pay US $4 extra for a warmer compartment which we did. Around 5:00 am we reached Rousse, a medium size Bulgarian city close to the border of Romania.
The Romanian custom officials were rude, rough and loud. They took our passports and tickets and ordered us to get out of the train. When we asked the reason for their aggressive behaviour in spite us of having valid visas for Romania issued by their embassy in London, they did the unthinkable. They threw our bags off the train and when we got off to pick up the bags, the train left without us.
We were left shivering on the platform for 30 minutes in -25 °C temperature. After that we were allowed to enter a heated rest room, where they returned our passports and tickets after announcing that we were not allowed to enter Romania. They refused to give any reasons.
A month later, when we returned to England, I wrote a detailed letter to the Romanian Embassy in London, asking for an explanation, a refund of visa fees and an apology. They never bothered to reply. Up until today, I am unaware of their reasons for such unwelcoming conduct at their border. That was the worse experience I ever had in travelling to nearly 100 countries.
After staying at the border train station for another four hours, we were finally escorted to a train going from Rousse back to Sofia. After returning to a city that we did not want to visit again, around 6:00 pm we had another standing meal at the railway station restaurant, of the same limited menu (dry bread, salty gherkins, sliced sausages and black coffee).
That was our worst day ever!

We managed to get a room at a nearby hotel around 10:00 pm and hoped for a good night’s sleep. In the early hours of the morning, there was a power failure and the hotel generator did not start. We kept warm by sitting around the wood fireplace in the hotel lobby.
We gratefully took the first morning train from Sofia to Belgrade. We were still thinking of what happened to us at the Romanian border. We were shocked, saddened and it felt like a lingering nightmare. In our compartment we managed to have a conversation with two Turkish brothers travelling to Austria in search of work.
They spoke a few English words and we spoke a few German words. They were not surprised about the rude behaviour of the Romanian custom officers. They said probably Romania is having a serious energy crisis due to the bad weather and therefore not allowing foreigners to enter their country.
Later during the train ride, we shared our lunch with the two brothers. They shared a snack – a crispy flat bread and some fermented turnip juice with us. That was spicy, and we liked it. Afterwards, we played some gin rummy with them. I taught them this card game and they became very good at it. As the train came closer to Belgrade we exchanged our addresses. They also gave us a gift, a small key tag from Turkey. We had nothing of significance to give, but when we gave them our pack of cards they thanked us sincerely and left.
Soon after reaching Belgrade after sunset, we hurried to the information counter. For once we had good luck. The lady working there was friendly, cheerful, helpful and even spoke a little English. We confirmed our seats for the next train ride and had a quick dinner. We also went to the central post office and managed to call our friends in Austria to tell them our arrival time in Vienna. The evening train was warmer than we expected, another bonus.
Ivan, a young Yugoslavian of Slovenian ethnic background was in our compartment; we became quite friendly. He was travelling to Zagreb to commence his compulsory, military service. He showed us a photograph of his beautiful, teenage girlfriend he was leaving in his village. We suspected that he was anxious, as he continuously drank a large quantity of Rakia, a popular locally-made fruit spirit. Yugoslavians, particularly Slovenians, are classified as heavy drinkers and statistics showed that they drink an average of 12 litres of pure alcohol per year. They were also, notably, the seventh biggest beer consumers in the world. Ivan offered us drinks and we just had one to keep him company.
Every time Ivan poured a new drink, he shouted “Na zdravje!” (Cheers!). As Ivan became more drunk his cheers became louder and happier. Finally in his drunkenness, Ivan lay down to sleep. He snored loudly and overslept. When the train stopped in Zagreb, we had a hard time to wake him up. Ivan thanked and hugged us to say goodbye before rushing to the platform.
A moment later we realized that he had forgotten to take one of his bags. I rushed with the bag to the platform and shouted, “Ivan!”. I could not find him and the train was starting to move. I had to run fast to get into the moving train. Fortunately, we saw him through a train window as the train moved away from the station. When he saw us, he waved back at us and yelled something in his language. An older Slovenian gentleman in the compartment told us, while laughing, “He said ‘goodbye, my good friends!’”. We hoped that he had heard our shouts, “Your other bag is left on the platform!”
Around 5:00 am we crossed over the Yugoslavia-Austria border. The Austrian officials were very professional and polite. We could not help but compare and contrast the Austrian welcome with our recent experiences, elsewhere. We passed a small border town in Austria, Spielfeld, and three hours later we reached a larger city, Graz.
I suggested to my wife that after a couple of days in Vienna, we do some day trips from Vienna to Budapest, Bratislava and Prague. She put her foot down and said firmly, “Chandi, I will never visit a socialist country again!” I tactfully postponed the negotiation for another day when we were not exhausted. I was still keen to experience most of the key cities of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The train took two and half hours to travel from Graz to Vienna. While enjoying the breath-takingly beautiful Austrian winter scene, I summarized our travels during the previous three weeks in my travel journal. We were in the middle of our winter travel adventure. My calculations indicated that we had travelled for over 240 hours including 12 nights in trains to cover 12 countries.
It was time for a well-earned rest in one of our favourite cities in the world. When we reached Vienna around 9:30 am, our friends Biggi and Wolf, and a few of their friends were at the station to give us a hero’s welcome.
Will continue in next week’s article: “Austria-Hungary-Czechoslovakia-Liechtenstein”
Features
Combining local resources,traditional knowledge and science to build a food-secure Sri Lanka
World Food Day 2026: Innovating today for a better food future
by Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara
What will be on the Sri Lankan dinner table ten years from now? Will our children be able to get nutritious food at a price their families can afford? Will farmers be able to grow enough despite changing weather and rising costs? And how much of the food we produce will actually reach the consumer, instead of being lost or wasted along the way?
These questions can’t wait. A farmer faces unpredictable weather. A family faces rising food costs. Fruit goes unsold after a good harvest. Some children do not get enough nutrition. The future of food is tied to the future of Sri Lanka itself.
World Food Day 2026 is a chance to look beyond the immediate problems and ask whether we can build a food system that feeds our people well, gives farmers better opportunities, protects the environment and makes better use of what we already have. The answer can be yes, but we will have to think differently.
We are not starting from zero. Sri Lanka has diverse crops, fisheries, traditional food knowledge, indigenous varieties, research institutions, universities and a young generation able to create new solutions. What we need is to bring these together and act. Producing more will not secure our food future on its own. It will depend on how intelligently we produce, process, preserve, distribute and consume food.
Making more of what we already have
Innovation does not always mean inventing something new. Often it means finding better uses for the resources we have.
Sri Lanka grows traditional rice varieties, kurakkan, green gram, cowpea, jackfruit, breadfruit, cassava, sweet potato, coconut and palmyrah. All of them have great potential for modern, nutritious, value-added foods. Jackfruit and breadfruit can be made into flour and other convenient products. Traditional rice varieties can go into new foods that suit changing consumer needs. Palmyrah, with its strong cultural heritage, can create new income through better processing, packaging, quality assurance and market development.
The aim is to connect our traditional food knowledge with modern consumer needs and technology, while keeping our food heritage.
Stop wasting the food we produce
Reducing food loss and waste should be a major priority. Seasonal fruits such as mango, banana, papaya and pineapple can be lost in large quantities when production exceeds demand or when storage, transport and processing facilities are inadequate. With suitable technology, these fruits can become dried products, pulps, powders, beverages and other shelf-stable foods.
Agricultural and fisheries by-products are resources too. They could be turned into food ingredients, animal feed, bio-based products and other useful materials, which would move us toward a more circular food economy.
Technology alone is not enough. We need stronger local processing facilities, cold storage, efficient transport, collection centres and market information systems, especially close to where food is produced. Cutting food loss raises the value of what our farmers and fishers already produce.
Nutrition and food safety come first
Food security means more than having enough food. People also need food that is safe and nutritious.
Sri Lanka can develop affordable, nutritious foods from local pulses, grains, vegetables, fruits and fish. Children and other vulnerable groups should get particular attention. Schoolchildren in particular deserve a focus: safe, nutritious, locally sourced products for school feeding programs would support child nutrition, local farmers and domestic food industries at the same time.
Food safety must stay at the centre of food innovation. Good hygiene, quality control, laboratory testing, traceability and appropriate food safety systems are what make new products safe as well as attractive and nutritious.
A food system that can cope with climate change
Climate change is already affecting agricultural production, water availability, crop yields and food prices. We need food systems that can handle changing conditions. That means climate-resilient crops, efficient water use, soil and water conservation, better storage and resource-efficient food processing.
Traditional knowledge matters here. Generations of Sri Lankan farmers have developed practices suited to local climates and ecosystems. Combining that experience with modern science can give us solutions that fit local conditions and are sustainable. Technology alone will not build the future of food. Science, experience and local knowledge together can.
Give young people a bigger role
Sri Lanka’s universities have an important part to play in shaping our food future. Young people should be encouraged to identify real problems in the food system and work on practical solutions in areas such as food waste, sustainable packaging, nutrition, food safety, modernising traditional foods and digital technologies.
A good research project should not always end as a research paper. Where appropriate, research should be supported to move on to products, technologies, enterprises and community solutions. That needs stronger partnerships between universities and industry, along with mentoring, research funding, business support and market connections. If young researchers and entrepreneurs can turn their ideas into viable food innovations, both consumers and producers will benefit.
A pathway designed for Sri Lanka
We do not need to copy food-system models from other countries. We can build a pathway that suits our own resources, culture and needs. It would bring together local resources, traditional knowledge, scientific research, appropriate technology and entrepreneurship, with farmers, fishers, universities, research institutions, food industries, entrepreneurs and policymakers working side by side.
The goal goes beyond selling raw materials. We need to create more value, reduce waste, improve nutrition, generate jobs and strengthen rural livelihoods. This matters especially for small and medium-scale food enterprises, which can drive local economic development when they get the right technical, financial and market support.
The choices we make today
The food future will not create itself. It will be shaped by what we grow, what we research, what we process, what we consume and what we choose not to waste.
So, the question for World Food Day 2026 is this: what can we do today so that every Sri Lankan has safe, nutritious, affordable and sustainable food tomorrow?
The answers are already around us, in our farms, fisheries, food businesses, universities, laboratories and communities. We have the resources, the traditional knowledge, the scientific expertise and talented young people. What we need now is to connect them and act.
A better food future begins with the choices we make today.
Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara
Senior Lecturer, Department of Biosystems Technology, Faculty of Technology, University of Ruhuna
Features
20th Anniversary of Digampathana blast – the day Sri Lanka Navy cried
By Admiral Ravindra C Wijegunaratne
WV, RWP and Bar, RSP, VSV, USP, NI (M) (Pakistan), ndc, psn, Bsc
(Hons) (War Studies) (Karachi) MPhil (Madras)
Former Navy Commander and Former Chief of Defence Staff
Former Chairman, Trincomalee Petroleum Terminals Ltd
Former Managing Director Ceylon Petroleum Corporation
Former High Commissioner to Pakistan
The Digampathana suicide truck attack on 16th October 2006 remains the deadliest single strike in Sri Lanka Navy history, leaving scars that time cannot erase.
It was a seemingly ordinary Monday morning on 16 October 2006, but the calm of that day would soon be shattered in a way none of us could have imagined. As the Commandant of the Naval and Maritime Academy and Flag Officer Commanding Naval Fleet at Trincomalee, I was aware that a number of my cadets were travelling that morning, part of a convoy of fifteen buses carrying naval personnel from Trincomalee, Colombo, and other bases, heading toward Dambulla to rendezvous with another group. The convoy also included trucks and escort vehicles, a routine movement planned and coordinated with the army to ensure the roads were clear. The morning started quietly. Some personnel greeted friends, handed over their weapons, or strolled to a nearby tea shop. It all seemed so ordinary—too ordinary for what would come next.

Sri Lanka Navy sunk LTTE Ships carrying arms, ammunition and warlike materials thousand miles away from Sri Lanka in Indian Ocean in September and October 2007.
By late morning, both convoys had reached the small ground at Digampathana, near the Sigiriya junction, and personnel mingled briefly, unaware that a carefully orchestrated act of terror was waiting. Then, suddenly, an empty half-truck veered directly into the convoy. It exploded with a ferocity I can still recall as if it were yesterday. Nuts, bolts, and high explosives tore through the air. Pandemonium erupted instantly. I later learned that 107 of our naval personnel were killed on the spot and another 153 critically injured. The scene was indescribable—bodies scattered, vehicles mangled, personal effects strewn across the ground. I remember later hearing that the head of the suicide bomber was recovered more than 100 meters away from the blast, a grim testament to the sheer force of the explosion.
I was in my office at the Naval and Maritime Academy when my mobile phone rang. A young midshipman from the 21st intake called, his voice trembling: “Sir, there was a huge explosion at the convoy point! Many are dead … my batch mate Wijesundara is among them.” I immediately jumped into my jeep with my escort Chief Petty Officer and driver and rushed to Digampathana, relying on every ounce of my driving skill to reach the scene. The journey, which usually took little more than an hour, felt endless that day, each passing mile weighed down by dread.
When I arrived, I was confronted with a sight that no training can prepare you for. The injured were being rushed to Dambulla Hospital, where doctors and nurses worked tirelessly, improvising in ways that saved lives despite the overwhelming chaos. I went back to the site after visiting the hospital. The remains of our naval personnel were scattered across the ground, and someone had begun collecting weapons and protective gear. I immediately contacted Surgeon Rear Admiral Nico Jayasekara and received his instructions: collect all body parts in separate bags and transport them to the Trincomalee Naval Hospital mortuary. This gruesome work had to be done with care and dignity, and it filled the icebox in my vehicle. Through DNA testing initiated by Rear Admiral Nico, we were able to identify every naval personnel lost that day, bringing some closure to grieving families.
The Navy Commander at the time, Vice Admiral Wasantha Karannagoda, was devastated. I had worked closely with him and knew how deeply he cared for his men. He ensured that the fallen were honoured with full ceremonial naval funerals at Welisara Naval Base, attended by families and comrades. Sixty-seven funerals were conducted in a single day—a number that still haunts me.
The Digampathana attack remains the largest single loss of naval life in our history. It was a day of sorrow, but also a day that reinforced our resolve. The tragedy galvanized the Navy to target the LTTE Sea Tiger wing with renewed determination and reshaped our maritime operations forever. Every time I think of that day, I remember not just the lives lost, but the courage, professionalism, and dedication of those who survived, those who treated the injured, and those who ensured the fallen were honored properly. May the souls of our naval hero’s rest in peace, their sacrifice guiding us and inspiring generations of naval personnel to come.
Features
‘Murder at Whitby Abbey’
Tales of Mystery and Suspense – 24
I was intrigued by the title of a book I found in a book drop at the condominium of a friend, Murder at Whitby Abbey, and I brought it home with me though I will not be able to return it in the near future. It was described on the cover page as ‘a standout in the crowded medieval mystery field’, though I fear I do not know of other books in this field, apart from the Cadfael series, which I have dealt with earlier.
The book, by Cassandra Clark, is set during the reign of Richard II and has as a backdrop his precarious position, which led to his being replaced, and murdered, by his cousin Henry, who reigned as Henry IV. It is a gloomy book, the action taking place in the twelve days of Christmas leading up to the Epiphany. And the gloom is pervasive, even though this is supposed to be a time of festivity, with mummers performing, and many of those in the guest house where the heroine stays going to town to enjoy themselves, with much drinking and much music, which also fills the guesthouse.
The heroine Hildegarde is a nun, sent to try to acquire a relic being sold by Whitby Abbey, though this was also a penance set by the Abbot of the monastery that governed her abbess because she had had sex with a man. Soon after she and her companions reach the Abbey set high on a cliff, she finds that there are other bidders, and soon suspects that the hierarchy, not perhaps the Abbot who seems a weakling, but his rapacious bursar, is determined to make money, and not above creating false relics to sell to several aspirants.
After Hildegarde and her Cistercian companions – Whitby is a Benedictine Foundation – two monks, Gregory and Egbert, and a young priest Mark, reach the abbey, they find that Aelwyn, a monk they had met on their way to the guesthouse had died. This was in the apple store, and they realize, when they find the surplices of novices stuffed into the air vents, that he had been left to suffocate in the overwhelming scent of apples.
The Cistercians are asked to look into the death, perhaps because they are likely to get no cooperation from the Abbey folk, but perhaps because those in charge are keen to know what happened. And the infirmarer, an old monk, suggests Hildegarde talk to a man called Edred who worked for the bursar, and had been a friend of Aelwyn’s. But Edred too is killed, before he can keep an appointment he had made with Hildegarde, drowned in a pool near the farmhouse of the Abbey.
Meanwhile tensions arise between the fisherfolk and the abbey for the bursar wants to charge them for using the beach that technically belongs to the abbey to dry their fish and their nets. This leads to physical battles, when the guards used by the abbey, under the command it seems of the bursar whose determination to make money is not resisted by the abbot and the prior, try to storm the area where the fishermen live.
Hildegard finds out more about what had happened through two youngsters, one of whom Torold is the son of Aelwyn by a woman who worked as a prostitute for a cartel, and with whom Mark fell in love. The other works on the farm and had seen Edred meet someone near the pool, after which that someone left the place by himself. And the boy had also found in the pool a sort of dagger with the seal of the abbey.
He and his dog, and Torold who follows her, rescue Hildegarde from a man at arms who has waylaid her and tries to rape her earlier. Escaping into the abbey she was nearly been raped then by the bursar, but she managed to escape, in the process setting fire to him and the muniments room, which led, when he was rescued, to the discovery of a box with the money he said had been stolen, blame being cast on both Aelwyn and Edred.
Matters come to a head when the fisherfolk try to storm the abbey, being resisted by the men at arms stationed on the towers. But then Hildegarde realizes that behind the murders was the bursar’s clerk, whom she pursued to the cathedral. There is great drama then as she escapes from him when he tries to kill her, and then from the man at arms who had tried to both rape and kill her, but they both fall from the scaffolding she had climbed, the latter coming from a tower where he had been stationed.
Both of them think they run the rapacity of the abbey, the latter claiming to work for the nobles opposed to Richard, who is presented throughout the book as devoted to his subjects, not to power or money. But though the villains die, the bursar continues, having got over the hysteria the fire had caused and his acknowledgment then of guilt – and though the abbot and the prior seem less vicious, whether they will be able to assert themselves is questionable.
Before the climax, when the others in the guesthouse were leaving, Hildegarde found that two of them were in possession of the relic, for which they seem to have paid well. Hildegarde herself had made a derisory offer, but before she leaves the abbot gives her the relic, perhaps in gratitude for what she and her fellow Cistercians had discovered, the abbey having made as much money as it needed and more from the gullible other buyers.
Mark’s inamorata is saved from the stews because she moves in with Edred’s widow whom the bursar had thrown out of the rooms he occupied when her husband was found dead. Hildegarde had paid for lodgings, in a house run by the man who ran the brothels, but he had a kindly side and was going to finance them to make nets for the fishermen.
So, the Cistercians set off for their home as swiftly as they can to get there on the day of the Epiphany, having stopped en route to pray for King Richard whose birthday it was.
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