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Musical ‘choon paan’bread trucks

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by Zinnara Ratnayake

For years, the sound of Beethoven meant bread in Sri Lanka. Now, years after the island’s mobile bread vendors disappeared, they’re being revived to help during the pandemic.

I was young when I first heard the music. It came from the earthen road outside where a man was selling bread from a tuk tuk. Unlike other colourful three-wheeled vehicles, the back of this one held a glass display cabinet piled high with neatly stacked baked goods. “It’s the choon paan man,” my father told me.

“Choon paan” loosely translates to “music bread” in Sinhala. During my childhood, the fresh-off-the-oven kimbula (“crocodile”) bun we bought from the choon paan man for evening tea gave me bliss. This beautifully fluffy, buttery, home-baked bun was sprinkled with sugar and twisted into a slender, crocodile-like shape. Half of it was for me, the other for my father.

Twice a day starting at 06:30, choon paan trucks would drive along the dusty path near the paddy fields of my family’s rural village in Kurunegala, 120km north-east of Colombo, selling loaves of bread. Early in the morning, the men circled the roads with fish buns and sausage rolls made at small bakeries. They reappeared in the afternoon around 16:00, bringing sweet buns for tea. Some were buttery, round-shaped buns dotted with raisins. Others were stuffed with jam or sprinkled with sugar.

For us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread

For years, these small trucks all played the same, tinny recorded music. When I heard the faint hum of the breadman from a distance, I would run to the dusty path and call my father. Years later, during music classes in school, I realised that this familiar tune that we Sri Lankans just called “choon paan music” was actually Beethoven’s 1810 classic Für Elise.

So, how did this classical composition written in Austria come to symbolise fresh-baked confections in Sri Lanka?

When tuk tuks became increasingly popular in Sri Lanka in the early 2000s, many bakers used the three-wheeled vehicles to take their bun business on the road and sell to distant neighbourhoods and villages. This was also around the time when mobile phones became popular. Just as an ice cream truck’s jingle alerts residents that it’s approaching, these mobile bakers started playing their mobile phone’s ringtone through a horn speaker to let residents know the choon paan truck was near.

Of course, one of the most popular ringtones from the early 2000s was Beethoven’s iconic masterpiece, Für Elise. So, whenever people in Sri Lanka would hear it, we’d head out to wait for the “music bread” truck to arrive. Ever since, for us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread.

After relocating to the city of Kandy for high school, I still heard Für Elise every day. Even when I was already late for class, with my school tie loosely hanging around my neck and my hair braided into two with white ribbons, I ran after the choon paan truck to catch it for morning fish buns. Stuffed with canned fish, spiced potato and chopped vegetables, they were a treat with a cup of piping-hot ginger tea.

Six years ago, I moved again, to Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. In the six years I’ve been here, I’ve seldom seen a choon paan truck nor heard the familiar tune I grew up with.

Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic

According to Colombo-based baker Padmini Marasinghe, that’s because it has recently become much more fashionable – and even a status symbol – to be able to buy baked goods at a traditional bakery than to buy bread from a truck. As a result, Sri Lanka’s once-ubiquitous music bread trucks have now largely disappeared.

As Marasinghe explained, many urbanites were convinced that breads from chain bakeries were of better quality than those from mobile trucks. “But choon paan products are from home bakers. They are better than mass-produced food in large bakeries,” Marasinghe said.

She also added that people complained choon paan goods were too expensive given their small, mobile operation. “They reduced prices and curtailed the quality to make marginal profits. There was less filling in a fish bun or little butter in a kimbula bun, so they lost their clientele,” Marasinghe said.

Then in 2017, the former government banned loud music from mobile bakeries, which further led to their demise. Some trucks circled the roads without music but failed to make a profit. Without Beethoven notifying the neighbourhood that bread was coming, it seemed that residents wouldn’t rush to the street.

In recent years, cities and tourist towns have also seen a rise in home delivery services. “People would rather order fish buns from an upmarket bakery on Uber Eats” Marasinghe said. “This put choon paan out of business.”

Marasinghe admits that the idea of starting a choon paan truck had always seemed tempting to her, but by the time she started her small bakery in 2019, nearly all the bread trucks were gone.

Yet, in recent months, Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic.

As the virus began sweeping across Asia, Sri Lanka imposed an island-wide curfew to slow its spread. The government ordered restaurants, bakeries and all “non-essential” businesses to close. Marasinghe had to shutter her business, too. Yet, the government did permit the door-to-door sales of baked goods.

Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise

“With no way to salary my bakery staff, I decided to start a choon paan truck as home delivery of bakery products [was] termed an ‘essential service’,” she said.

Unable to find a tuk tuk, Marasinghe’s husband borrowed a friend’s mini lorry and turned it into a makeshift choon paan truck to operate in Hanwella, about 30km from Colombo. “We played Für Elise so it would send the message: the choon paan man is back!” Marasinghe said.

She is not alone. Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise and rushing to their gates for loaves of bread. In fact, almost overnight, bakers dusted off their old choon paan trucks and created a delivery network of tuk tuk bread to ensure that housebound islanders could get their buns.

“They’ve found a new appreciation,” said Colombo-based journalist Amalini De Sayrah. “Perhaps we didn’t realise how valuable it was, but now stuck at home with no way to go out, people are realising the value of choon paan.”

Arul Kogilan, a physician volunteering as part of a Covid-19 prevention task force, appreciates the return of choon paan drivers as essential-service providers. “With bakery goods being delivered to their gates, people can stay home avoiding the risk,” he said. “But we need to acknowledge that they are putting themselves out there at risk for us.”

While the curfew was relaxed late last month, islanders are advised to stay home except for obligatory work.

Now that I’m sheltering in place back home where I grew up, at around 07:00 am every morning, I wake up to the sound of choon paan. The truck travels past our house as the rattling Fur Elise eventually fades into a vague hiss. When I get up, my father has already bought bread. In the late afternoon, when I hear Fur Elise from a distance, I cry out for my father.

It’s as though I’m young again, waiting for the classical ringtone and the simple joy of a sugar-sprinkled choon paan kimbula bun.

One half for me, the other for my father.



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Women,work and ageing: Rethinking Sri Lanka’s economic and social future

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by Ifham Nizam

Sri Lanka risks losing a critical opportunity to sustain economic growth as its population ages, fertility declines and skilled workers migrate overseas, with low female labour-force participation further limiting the country’s ability to respond to a shrinking workforce. The United Nations Population Fund (UNFPA) Sri Lanka says the challenge calls for a fundamental rethink of the country’s economic and social policies, including how women’s unpaid care responsibilities, young people’s family aspirations and the financial security of older citizens are addressed.

With women accounting for 70.6 percent of Sri Lanka’s economically inactive population in 2024, the country cannot afford to leave such a substantial pool of potential workers outside productive employment while demographic pressures intensify. Only 28.9 percent of women participated in the labour force that year, compared with 67.4 percent of men.

In responses to questions from the Sunday Island, UNFPA emphasised that Sri Lanka’s changing population structure should not be treated as a crisis in itself. Rather, it reflects decades of progress in healthcare, education, life expectancy and access to voluntary family planning. The real test is whether the country can adapt its economic model, labour market, social protection systems and care infrastructure to these new realities.

The implications extend well beyond employment and economic growth. Rising demand for healthcare and long-term care, inadequate retirement protection, outward migration and the growing difficulty young people face in starting families are interconnected challenges that require a coordinated policy response.

Sri Lanka is still benefiting from a demographic bonus, with its working-age population larger than the dependent population of children and older people. But this window of opportunity will not remain open indefinitely. UNFPA argues that the country must use it to strengthen productivity, widen women’s access to decent employment and prepare institutions for a society in which people live longer and family structures continue to change.

The challenge of an ageing population

Sri Lanka’s demographic transition is gathering pace. Around 18 percent of the population is now aged 60 or above, while the country’s fertility rate has fallen to approximately 1.3 children per woman. Together, these trends point towards a future in which the proportion of older people rises while the relative size of the working-age population gradually declines.

The transition is not unique to Sri Lanka. Countries across the world are experiencing longer life expectancy and smaller families. However, the speed of change and the country’s economic circumstances make preparation particularly important.

An ageing population can place increasing pressure on public expenditure, healthcare services, pension arrangements and families caring for older relatives. At the same time, a smaller workforce could make it more difficult to sustain economic growth unless productivity improves and more people are able to participate in productive employment.

UNFPA’s position is that population ageing should not be approached simply as a problem of numbers. The central issue is whether institutions are equipped to support people throughout longer lives while ensuring that the economy can generate sufficient income and public revenue.

Sri Lanka’s demographic bonus provides an opportunity to prepare. A relatively large working-age population can contribute to growth, savings and investment, but only if people have access to productive work and the skills required by a changing economy.

The challenge is to convert that opportunity into lasting economic gains before the age structure changes further.

An analysis using National Transfer Accounts data from 2016 estimated that demographic change alone could require an additional Rs. 76 billion in public consumption expenditure by 2037. The same analysis indicated that higher labour productivity could increase aggregate labour income by Rs. 872 billion by 2037 compared with a scenario in which demographic change was considered without those productivity gains.

These estimates illustrate the importance of productivity in responding to demographic pressures. They also suggest that Sri Lanka’s policy response should go beyond simply encouraging people to have more children. Investment in skills, technology, healthcare, education and decent employment can help the country make better use of its available workforce.

Women and the untapped workforce

One of Sri Lanka’s most immediate opportunities lies in increasing women’s participation in paid employment.

In 2024, female labour-force participation stood at 28.9 percent, compared with 67.4 percent for men. Women represented 70.6 percent of the economically inactive population, and 50.6 percent of economically inactive women identified household responsibilities, including childcare and elder care, as a reason for not participating in the labour force.

These figures point to a major economic challenge that is closely connected to social policy. Many women who could contribute to the economy remain outside paid employment because the demands of caring for children, older relatives and other family members are difficult to reconcile with formal work.

Increasing female labour-force participation is, therefore, not merely a question of equality. It is also an economic necessity as the population ages and the working-age population comes under pressure.

UNFPA’s approach highlights the need to recognise unpaid care work and reduce the barriers that prevent women from entering or remaining in employment. Affordable childcare, accessible elder-care services, flexible working arrangements and workplaces that accommodate family responsibilities could help more women pursue paid work.

Employers also have a role to play by improving workplace conditions, strengthening protection against discrimination and making it easier for women to return to employment after childbirth or periods spent caring for family members.

The issue is especially significant for young women. Unemployment among women, aged 15–24, has been recorded at 30.6 percent, indicating that many young women face substantial obstacles even before family responsibilities become a factor.

Better access to education, vocational training, digital skills and employment opportunities could help address this problem. However, training alone will not be sufficient if workplaces remain difficult to access or if women continue to carry a disproportionate share of unpaid care responsibilities.

Sri Lanka must also reconsider the way it measures economic contribution. Unpaid household work is essential to the functioning of society, yet it is often overlooked in conventional measures of economic activity. Recognising its value would help policymakers design more realistic employment, social protection and care policies.

The objective should not be to force women into paid work, but to ensure that those who want to work have a genuine opportunity to do so without being constrained by inadequate services or unequal family responsibilities.

Migration and the future of economic growth

Outward migration presents another challenge to Sri Lanka’s demographic and economic outlook.

The departure of skilled and working-age people can reduce the domestic labour supply, weaken particular professional sectors and place additional pressure on those who remain. The consequences can be especially serious when trained professionals leave sectors already facing shortages.

Migration, however, is not inherently negative. Sri Lankans working overseas contribute through remittances, international networks, new skills and experience. Migration can also provide individuals and families with opportunities that may not be available at home.

The policy challenge is to ensure that migration takes place through safe and fair channels while making Sri Lanka a country in which people have compelling reasons to build their futures.

That requires more than discouraging people from leaving. Decent employment, competitive career prospects, reliable public services, opportunities for professional advancement and confidence in the economy all influence decisions about whether to remain in the country.

For young people, the ability to find stable employment and plan for the future can be as important as the availability of jobs themselves. Uncertainty over income, housing costs and family responsibilities can make long-term decisions increasingly difficult.

Sri Lanka must, therefore, connect its migration policies with broader strategies for economic development, skills retention and employment creation. At the same time, it should maintain links with its overseas workforce and create opportunities for returning migrants to contribute their experience and expertise.

A sustainable response would recognise migration as part of a wider global labour market while addressing the domestic conditions that encourage skilled workers to seek opportunities elsewhere.

Why young people hesitate to start families

Falling fertility is often discussed as though it were simply a matter of changing personal preferences. In reality, decisions about whether to have children are shaped by economic circumstances, relationships, housing, employment security and access to childcare.

UN repcaption: UNFPA Country Representative Phuntsho Wangyel

Many young adults may want to start families but feel unable to do so. High living costs, uncertain employment, the expense of raising children and difficulties balancing work with family life can all influence reproductive decisions.

UNFPA’s Demographic Futures Survey, which reached 108,926 internet-connected young adults, aged 18–19, across 73 countries and territories, including Sri Lanka, found a general desire for two children. Such findings underline the importance of distinguishing between the number of children people would like to have and the number they ultimately feel able to raise.

Sri Lanka’s experience must be understood within this broader context. A low fertility rate does not necessarily mean that young people no longer value family life. It may also reflect the practical barriers they encounter when considering parenthood.

UNFPA and the University of Colombo are conducting a study, examining fertility desires, intentions and behaviours in Sri Lanka. The research is expected to contribute to a better understanding of the factors shaping family decisions and the gap that can emerge between aspirations and outcomes.

The findings could help policymakers move beyond assumptions and design measures that respond to the actual concerns of young people.

Policies that support families need to address the conditions in which decisions are made. Affordable childcare, parental leave, secure employment, housing opportunities and a more equitable distribution of care responsibilities can help people reconcile their family aspirations with their economic circumstances.

Such measures can also benefit the wider economy by enabling parents, particularly women, to remain in employment and by reducing the pressure on families to choose between earning an income and caring for children.

The goal should not be to prescribe a particular family size. It should be to create conditions in which people can make decisions about parenthood freely and realistically.

Retirement security and the cost of longer lives

As life expectancy increases, ensuring financial security in old age becomes a more pressing concern.

Only about 30 percent of Sri Lanka’s workforce is covered by a formal pension arrangement. Many workers, therefore, face the prospect of financing a lengthy retirement with limited savings or without a regular pension income.

For some employees, provident fund benefits provide an important source of retirement savings. However, a one-off payment may not be sufficient to meet living expenses, healthcare costs and other needs over a retirement that could last many years.

The situation is particularly challenging for people who have spent much of their working lives in informal employment, where access to structured pension contributions and other employment benefits may be limited.

As the older population grows, the country will need to examine how retirement income can be made more secure without placing unsustainable pressure on public finances.

This includes strengthening social protection, improving access to suitable savings arrangements and considering how workers in informal employment can be better covered. Financial literacy and advice on managing retirement savings could also help people prepare for longer lives.

Healthcare and long-term care must form part of the same discussion. Older people may require continuing medical treatment, rehabilitation, assistance with daily activities or specialised residential care. When formal services are limited, these responsibilities frequently fall on family members, particularly women.

A stronger care system would help older people maintain dignity and independence while reducing the burden on families. It could also create employment opportunities in healthcare, community support and professional care services.

Ageing should not be treated only as a fiscal burden. Older people possess knowledge, experience and skills that can continue to benefit society. Policies that support healthy ageing, lifelong learning and opportunities for older people to remain economically or socially active can help make longer lives a source of strength.

Reproductive choice must remain central

Debates about low fertility can sometimes lead to calls for governments to encourage or pressure people to have more children. UNFPA’s approach places individual rights and reproductive choice at the centre of the discussion.

Demographic policy, the organisation argues, should not undermine people’s freedom to decide whether and when to have children or how many children to have. Efforts to address fertility decline must, therefore, avoid coercive measures and instead focus on removing the barriers that prevent people from realising their reproductive intentions.

This distinction is important for Sri Lanka. A policy that concentrates exclusively on increasing birth rates may overlook the economic and social reasons people delay or forgo parenthood. It may also fail to address the needs of those who choose to remain child-free or who cannot have children.

A rights-based approach recognises that individuals and couples should have access to accurate information, appropriate healthcare and voluntary family-planning services. It also recognises that decisions about parenthood are personal and cannot be reduced to targets set by the state.

At the same time, governments have a legitimate role in creating an environment in which families can thrive. Affordable childcare, parental support, decent work, healthcare access and social protection can help people make choices without being driven by financial insecurity or inadequate services.

The challenge is to support people rather than dictate their decisions.

Preparing for a different demographic future

Sri Lanka’s demographic transition requires a coordinated response across economic planning, labour policy, healthcare, education, migration and social protection.

Increasing productivity will be essential, but productivity gains must be accompanied by measures that enable more people to participate in the economy. Women need fair access to decent employment, young people need realistic opportunities to build secure lives, and older citizens need protection that reflects the prospect of longer retirements.

The country must also recognise that demographic change affects regions and communities differently. Rural areas, urban centres and sectors facing labour shortages may have distinct needs. Reliable population data and research into family intentions, migration patterns and labour-market participation will, therefore, be important in shaping effective policies.

The findings of the UNFPA–University of Colombo study could help inform this process by identifying the factors that influence reproductive decisions in Sri Lanka. Such evidence should be considered alongside labour-market data, pension coverage, healthcare requirements and the changing distribution of unpaid care work.

Equally important is the need to bring demographic considerations into long-term development planning. Policies should not be designed in isolation, with employment measures separated from childcare, retirement arrangements disconnected from healthcare, or migration strategies divorced from the availability of decent jobs.

Sri Lanka’s demographic transition is neither an automatic economic disaster nor a challenge that can be solved by increasing births alone. It is a structural change that calls for institutions to adapt.

The country still has an opportunity to benefit from its working-age population, improve productivity and build stronger systems of care and social protection. But that opportunity depends on decisions taken now.

The central question is not simply how many people Sri Lanka will have in the future. It is whether the country can create an economy and society in which people of all ages can contribute, families can make their own choices, women have equal opportunities and older citizens can live with dignity and financial security.

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The glittering gala in Male was enlivened by the rhythm of music and hospitality

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The Indian delegates with the General Manager of Barcelo Hotel, Male

By Zanita Careem

A glamorous celebration of South Asean hospitality took place with Sri Lanka taking centre age. at the vibrant capital of the Maldives, Male. It became the centre of attention for South Asia’s Tourism and Hospitality fraternity as industry leaders, hoteliers, travel professionals and other invited guests gathered for the 10th editiom of the South Asian Travel Awards (SATA). Hosted at the stylish ambience of Barcelo Nasandhura Male, the glittering gala brought together the region’s leading tourist destination for an evening of celebration, recognition and camaraderie, with the Maldives providing a fitting backdrop for this prestigious gathering.

Amid the elegance and exitement of the occasion, Sri Lanka emerged as one of the evening’s standout performers, collecting an impressive array of awards that reflected the island’s strength in hospitality, travel luxury wellness and personalised guest experiences. The accoladesss were a proud endorcement of talent, dedication and service excellence that continue to distinguish Sri Lanka’s tourism industry across the South Asian region.

Adding vibrancy and energy

The key highlight was the address by the SATA President, Ismail Hameed, who stressed the importance of strengthening regional co-operation, maintaining hospitality standards and preparing the industry for a rapidly evolving tourism environment. His speech underscored the need for South Asian destination to work together to embrace innovation and build a more competitive and sustainable tourism sector. Artificial Intelligence and the future of hospitality took centre stage at (SATA) where panel discussions brought together industry professionals to examine how technology is transforming the travel and tourism landscape. Moderated by Dinuksha Chandrasena, Editor in Chief and publisher of Travel Talk Asia and Managing Director of Double Dee publication, who explored the growing role of artificial intelligence in enhancing guest experiences, streamlining hotel operations and helping the industry respond to the changing expectation of modern travellers.

The conservation also raised an important question how hotels embrace technological innovation without losing the personal touch that remains at the heart of genuine hospitality,

The discussions reflected a wider transformation taking place across the hospitalality industry, where digital solutions are becoming increasingly important in everything, from personalised guest services to efficient management.

Cultural extravaganza: Colour,rhythm and tradition

Cinnamon Grand Colombo made a notable impact at the South Asian Travel Awards 2016 held in the Maldives with its achievements reflecting the strength of Sri Lanka’s hospitality industry. The hotel struck gold for Best General Manager Nazoomi Azhar, while young achiever Gayani Punchihewa won gold in the Best Young Hotelier category. Cinnamon Grand also achieved Silver for Best Food and Beverage Hotel in South Asia.

The 10th South Asian Travel Awards celebrated not only the regions finest in travel and hospitalitybut also the spirit of partnership that continues to strengthen South Asian Tourism. A special highlight was the presentation of the prestigious Face of South Asia award to Mohamed Salih, Chairman of Damas Company, in recognition of his contribution to the tourism industry. A total of 52 gold and 98 silver awards were presented across various categories recognising achievements in the hospitality industry, with Bhutan, Bangladesh, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and the Maldives in the scene.

Sri Lanka also made a strong impression at the South Asian Travel Awards held in Male.

The iconic Galle Face Hotel has been ranked No 1 in the Best Heritage Hotel category. It is the first time the iconic Galle Face Hotel has claimed the top honour, making it a significant milestone in a history that go back to 1864. Cinnamon Lakeside won the award as a leading meeting and conference hotel.

Other award winners included Kingsbury Hotel, Amaya hotels Kandy, leading Hill Resort/hotel, Anantara Peace Haven, leading luxury resort – Amaya Lake Dambulla, New Burgh Ella, Royal Beach, Beruwela, Marine Bay Hotel, Marine Drive, South Asia’s best new hotel, Auygiri Aurveda, Wellness and Spa Resort.

Most romantic resort The Fortress Resort and spa. Fox resorts silver winner, leading hospitality development company, Sri Lankan Airlines leading international airline, Aitken Spence Travels – leading travel Agent.

Amari Hotel won an award for Sri Lanka’s leading business hotel.

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‘Teardrop Nation’ brings Sri Lanka’s post-independence history to the screen

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Invitees at the premiere of Teardrop Nation in Colombo.

Teardrop Nation, a four-part documentary series examining Sri Lanka’s post-independence political and conflict history, was formally launched at Scope Cinemas Multiplex at Colombo City Centre recently, with Leader of the House and Minister Bimal Rathnayake attending as Chief Guest. Developed over six years by Project 72, with Sarah Kabir as Project Director, the series brings together historical accounts, expert perspectives and lived experiences to explore the events and decisions that have shaped Sri Lanka since independence.

Sarah Kabir, Project Director of Teardrop Nation, addresses the audience at the premiere in Colombo.

Created for a broad public audience, with a particular focus on younger generations, Teardrop Nation seeks to make Sri Lanka’s recent history more accessible and encourage greater engagement with the factors that contributed to discrimination, violence and conflict. The project was conceived not simply as a record of the past, but as an educational resource that can help audiences better understand how earlier choices and events continue to inform the country today.

Speaking at the launch, Sarah Kabir, Project Director of Teardrop Nation, said her decade of work on reconciliation had shaped the project. “Understanding our past is essential to building positive and lasting peace in Sri Lanka. We created Teardrop Nation to make this history more accessible, especially to younger people, and to encourage them to engage with it thoughtfully and critically. After six years of research and production, we hope the series creates space for informed conversation and a shared understanding of the experiences and decisions that shaped our country,” she said.

The series unfolds chronologically across four episodes: Foundations of Conflict (1930s–1970s), The Trigger (1970s–1980s), Battle for Peace (1980s–late 1990s) and War in Paradise (1990s–2009). Together, the episodes examine political and social developments across different periods and explore tensions linked to ethnicity, religion, class and caste.

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