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Musical ‘choon paan’bread trucks

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by Zinnara Ratnayake

For years, the sound of Beethoven meant bread in Sri Lanka. Now, years after the island’s mobile bread vendors disappeared, they’re being revived to help during the pandemic.

I was young when I first heard the music. It came from the earthen road outside where a man was selling bread from a tuk tuk. Unlike other colourful three-wheeled vehicles, the back of this one held a glass display cabinet piled high with neatly stacked baked goods. “It’s the choon paan man,” my father told me.

“Choon paan” loosely translates to “music bread” in Sinhala. During my childhood, the fresh-off-the-oven kimbula (“crocodile”) bun we bought from the choon paan man for evening tea gave me bliss. This beautifully fluffy, buttery, home-baked bun was sprinkled with sugar and twisted into a slender, crocodile-like shape. Half of it was for me, the other for my father.

Twice a day starting at 06:30, choon paan trucks would drive along the dusty path near the paddy fields of my family’s rural village in Kurunegala, 120km north-east of Colombo, selling loaves of bread. Early in the morning, the men circled the roads with fish buns and sausage rolls made at small bakeries. They reappeared in the afternoon around 16:00, bringing sweet buns for tea. Some were buttery, round-shaped buns dotted with raisins. Others were stuffed with jam or sprinkled with sugar.

For us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread

For years, these small trucks all played the same, tinny recorded music. When I heard the faint hum of the breadman from a distance, I would run to the dusty path and call my father. Years later, during music classes in school, I realised that this familiar tune that we Sri Lankans just called “choon paan music” was actually Beethoven’s 1810 classic Für Elise.

So, how did this classical composition written in Austria come to symbolise fresh-baked confections in Sri Lanka?

When tuk tuks became increasingly popular in Sri Lanka in the early 2000s, many bakers used the three-wheeled vehicles to take their bun business on the road and sell to distant neighbourhoods and villages. This was also around the time when mobile phones became popular. Just as an ice cream truck’s jingle alerts residents that it’s approaching, these mobile bakers started playing their mobile phone’s ringtone through a horn speaker to let residents know the choon paan truck was near.

Of course, one of the most popular ringtones from the early 2000s was Beethoven’s iconic masterpiece, Für Elise. So, whenever people in Sri Lanka would hear it, we’d head out to wait for the “music bread” truck to arrive. Ever since, for us growing up on the tropical island, Beethoven meant bread.

After relocating to the city of Kandy for high school, I still heard Für Elise every day. Even when I was already late for class, with my school tie loosely hanging around my neck and my hair braided into two with white ribbons, I ran after the choon paan truck to catch it for morning fish buns. Stuffed with canned fish, spiced potato and chopped vegetables, they were a treat with a cup of piping-hot ginger tea.

Six years ago, I moved again, to Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. In the six years I’ve been here, I’ve seldom seen a choon paan truck nor heard the familiar tune I grew up with.

Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic

According to Colombo-based baker Padmini Marasinghe, that’s because it has recently become much more fashionable – and even a status symbol – to be able to buy baked goods at a traditional bakery than to buy bread from a truck. As a result, Sri Lanka’s once-ubiquitous music bread trucks have now largely disappeared.

As Marasinghe explained, many urbanites were convinced that breads from chain bakeries were of better quality than those from mobile trucks. “But choon paan products are from home bakers. They are better than mass-produced food in large bakeries,” Marasinghe said.

She also added that people complained choon paan goods were too expensive given their small, mobile operation. “They reduced prices and curtailed the quality to make marginal profits. There was less filling in a fish bun or little butter in a kimbula bun, so they lost their clientele,” Marasinghe said.

Then in 2017, the former government banned loud music from mobile bakeries, which further led to their demise. Some trucks circled the roads without music but failed to make a profit. Without Beethoven notifying the neighbourhood that bread was coming, it seemed that residents wouldn’t rush to the street.

In recent years, cities and tourist towns have also seen a rise in home delivery services. “People would rather order fish buns from an upmarket bakery on Uber Eats” Marasinghe said. “This put choon paan out of business.”

Marasinghe admits that the idea of starting a choon paan truck had always seemed tempting to her, but by the time she started her small bakery in 2019, nearly all the bread trucks were gone.

Yet, in recent months, Sri Lanka’s famous music bread trucks have made a comeback, thanks to an unlikely reason: the coronavirus pandemic.

As the virus began sweeping across Asia, Sri Lanka imposed an island-wide curfew to slow its spread. The government ordered restaurants, bakeries and all “non-essential” businesses to close. Marasinghe had to shutter her business, too. Yet, the government did permit the door-to-door sales of baked goods.

Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise

“With no way to salary my bakery staff, I decided to start a choon paan truck as home delivery of bakery products [was] termed an ‘essential service’,” she said.

Unable to find a tuk tuk, Marasinghe’s husband borrowed a friend’s mini lorry and turned it into a makeshift choon paan truck to operate in Hanwella, about 30km from Colombo. “We played Für Elise so it would send the message: the choon paan man is back!” Marasinghe said.

She is not alone. Many of these mobile bakeries are now back on Sri Lanka’s streets, with residents listening for the familiar ringtone sounds of Für Elise and rushing to their gates for loaves of bread. In fact, almost overnight, bakers dusted off their old choon paan trucks and created a delivery network of tuk tuk bread to ensure that housebound islanders could get their buns.

“They’ve found a new appreciation,” said Colombo-based journalist Amalini De Sayrah. “Perhaps we didn’t realise how valuable it was, but now stuck at home with no way to go out, people are realising the value of choon paan.”

Arul Kogilan, a physician volunteering as part of a Covid-19 prevention task force, appreciates the return of choon paan drivers as essential-service providers. “With bakery goods being delivered to their gates, people can stay home avoiding the risk,” he said. “But we need to acknowledge that they are putting themselves out there at risk for us.”

While the curfew was relaxed late last month, islanders are advised to stay home except for obligatory work.

Now that I’m sheltering in place back home where I grew up, at around 07:00 am every morning, I wake up to the sound of choon paan. The truck travels past our house as the rattling Fur Elise eventually fades into a vague hiss. When I get up, my father has already bought bread. In the late afternoon, when I hear Fur Elise from a distance, I cry out for my father.

It’s as though I’m young again, waiting for the classical ringtone and the simple joy of a sugar-sprinkled choon paan kimbula bun.

One half for me, the other for my father.



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Life style

Emirates marks a significant milestone

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Introducing A 350 on Colombo route

It was a breathtaking afternoon when Emirates welcomed the Sri Lankan media and industry leaders aboard its Airbus 350 to offer a taste of Emirates luxury travel experience recently.

This marked a significant milestone introducing an exciting new dimension in air travel to and from the destination of Colombo .

This aircraft combines next generation cabin design and exceptional passenger comfort paired with outstanding onboard services . Speaking to the media and industrial leaders, Esa Sulaiman Ahamed Senior Vice President West Asia and Indian Ocean Commercial Operations at Emirates said this new aircraft will bring a fresh experience to the Sri Lankan travellers. We’ve been in the market for 30 years, and he reaffirmed thier dedication to boost regional connectivity and tourism by deploying the A350 on the Colombo route. He highlighted that the introduction of A350 the largest aircraft in the Emirates fleet,to the Colombo route was a significant milestone

Emirates created a benchmark in air travelrecently by presenting the first experience on the Colombo Dubai route the A 350 which will now operate six days a week.

Emirates Premium economy was quite a luxury with interiors in cream coloured leather and wood panelling similar to the Business Class. The elegant cream and bronze cabin was accented with the significant ghaf tree motif Each 195 inch seat was designed to provide maximum comfort and supported with six way adjustable headrests and a generous recline.

Each seat has a wide screen, in addition to in seat charging points and a wood finished side cocktail table One of the hostesses gave the media an insight into the premium class dining experience. She said “There is a welcome drink served in fine glassware and a selection of meals made with seasonal ingredients served on Royal Doultan Cliver tableware with stainless cutlery. Premium economy customers are also offered an extended list of beverages she added. She highlighted its advanced features ,including mood lighting,noise reduction technology and the airlines award winning inflight entertainment system

The Emirates A350 aircraft offers three cabin classes with 32 next generation business class seats, 21 premium economy and 259 economy class seats.

This airline also showcased the latest in cabin innovation and all in all what we saw was maximum customer comfort. The other notable features included a newly designed more comfortable economy class ,upgraded business class and premium economy cabins with ultra responsive touchscreen, extra high quality high ceilings with wider aisles in all classes and faster wi-fi with uninterrupted across all A350 destinations all designed to make every journey a blend of style, comfort and sophiticated elegance. We were infomed that Emirates has 65 A350s joining its fleet in the years to come.

Emirates began operation in Sri Lanka in April 1986 and they have always supported the country’s tourism and expat industries with passenger and cargo services.

By Zanita Careem

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Life style

Behind the sparkle

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Nabeela Yaseen, founder of Stoned Jewellery shares her creative journeyfrom design inspiration to building a popular brand of her own Her exotic pieces of jewellery on display reflected her artistry and passion that defines her brand.

Nabeela Yaseen

Recently she had an exclusive Mother’s Day celebration with a display of her Stoned Jewellery collection at The Design Collective situated at Kirillapone . On display, were jewellery zones of beautifully crafted intricate jewellery with memory making experiences The atmosphere and ambience that was created that evening were of beauty, gratitude and sparkle.

The concept of Stoned Jewellery was established in 2019 by Nabeela Yaseen. The celebrations for Mothers Day at the Design Collective was titled “Get Mum Stoned” this dazzling soiree brought together great moments, a sense of camaraderie and of course a gemstone gift for every mum.

In true stoned style, the celebration that evening reflected individuality of each mother’s love to every daughteror son From customised keepsakes to heartfelt notes from their children, every gift was more than just a stone, but had a emotional story woven into it. There was also personalised jewellery zones where each mum received a gem stone with a momento in addition to memory making booths that turned emotions into tangible keepsakes,

We believe jewellery is more than an adornment, its connection, identity and magic have a powerful emotional appeal said Nabeela. This mothers’s day event event is our way of honouring the love of every mum said the founder. Stoned jewellery as told by Nabeela is a brand uprooted in emotion, individuality and conscious craftsmanship. Our designs are inspired by stones and stories . Our timeless pieces speak not just shine.

She stressed that the mission of the brand is to make every woman feel great in her own skin.

 

(ZC)

Pix by Thushara Attapathu

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Saving Sri Lanka’s vanishing wild

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Nations Trust WNPS monthly lecture

Time is Running Out: Saving Sri Lanka’s vanishing wild from elephants to wildcats, from vanishing forests to fading oceans, and the silent extinction of endemics — Sri Lanka’s natural heritage is on the brink, and time is running out to save it lead by Prof. Sevvandi Jayakody, Prof. Enoka Kudavidanage, Prof Sampath Seneviratne and Jehan CanagaRetna,

Joined by project field researchers Gihani Hettiarachchi, Pavithra Attanayake, Thilina M. Kumarasiri and Upuli Madarasinghe 6 pm, Thursday, 22 May 2025, Jasmine Hall, BMICH

The WNPS calls on conservationists and changemakers to join a bold conversation about the future of Sri Lanka’s biodiversity.

Time is Running Out: Saving Sri Lanka’s Vanishing Wild

. This lecture will spotlight four critical, high-stakes conservation battles unfolding right now: the escalating Human-Elephant Conflict, the silent vanishing of Sri Lanka’s majestic wildcats, the urgent need for ecosystem restoration on land and sea, and the race against extinction for the country’s unique endemic species.

But this is no dry recital of facts. This will be a thought-provoking, no-holds-barred session that challenges, inspires, and empowers every participant. You’ll hear about real-world solutions driven by science, fieldwork, and community action — and most importantly, how you can be part of the fight.

This is not a lecture for the sidelines. It’s a rallying cry. Because when it comes to conservation in Sri Lanka, inaction is extinction.

The time to get involved, to act, to protect, and to restore, is now. Because for our wildlife, our forests, our oceans, and our children’s future — time really is running out.

Prof. Sevvandi Jayakody Chair of Sri Lanka’s National Mangrove Expert Committee and Marine Conservation Lead at WNPS, Sevvandi is a driving force behind blue carbon and mangrove restoration initiatives.

Prof. Enoka Kudavidanage

A respected conservation biologist and Co-Chair of the WNPS Wild Cats Subcommittee, she brings deep expertise in Sri Lanka’s ecosystem dynamics.

Prof. Sampath Seneviratne

Attached to the University of Colombo. He also is a research scientist, a forester, a conservationist, and a public communicator. He loves birding, tracking wildlife & planting.

Jehan CanagaRetna Immediate Past President of WNPS, Jehan is a seasoned conservation advocate. A passionate voice for human-elephant coexistence, Jehan chairs the WNPS HEC Subcommittee​.

With sharing of insights from the field work on key conservation initiatives Gihani Hettiarachchi Project Coordinator researching human-wildlife coexistence, Gihani leads leopard conservation efforts with a people-focused approach through WNPS–LOLC.

Pavithra Attanayake Senior Executive at WNPS PLANT

, Pavi drives science-based, community-led ecosystem restoration and education with over eight years’ experience.

Thilina M. Kumarasiri Biologist and MPhil researcher,

Thilina leads mangrove restoration work, championing blue carbon ecosystem conservation in Sri Lanka.

Upuli Madarasinghe Field officer at the HEC Centre,

Upuli bridges communities and conservation, pioneering grassroots solutions to human-elephant conflict.

This lecture will be held on 22nd May g-et inspired by science, stories from the field, and real-world solutions. Be part of the change — before time runs out

The lecture is supported by Nations Trust Bank and is open to both members and non members, Entrance Free

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