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Memorable jungle excursions

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by C.G. Uragoda

Ever since my first camping trip to Hendikema in 1953, I have paid regular visits to the jungles. At first these were few and far between, but in later years they became more frequent, reaching two or three a year. Many a time have I camped out in the jungle, with nearby running water that makes the stay a very pleasant and comfortable one. Some of these trips are etched in my memory on account of experiences I have had in the jungle. In the past 20 years or so, due to the war, I have not been able to visit the north and the east, but with peace prevailing in the country in 2002, I have renewed my trips to these parts.

First camping trip

My first camping trip to the jungles of Sri Lanka was in 1953 when I was a house officer at the General Hospital, Colombo. My first substantive appointment in the then Department of Medical and Sanitary Services was as District Medical Officer at Pallebedde, a place unheard of by me till then. As was usually the case in such situations at that time, I tried to get the appointment altered to a better known station, but having had no influence with the powers-that-be, I failed in my attempt. In three months, however, I was transferred to General Hospital, Colombo under strange circumstances when conventional methods did not bear fruit.

The Permanent Secretary to the Ministry of Health, Mr Somasunderam, paid a surprise visit to Pallebedde Hospital on his way back after inspecting the new Chest Hospital at Wirawila due to be opened shortly. He found the hospital replete with flies swarming on the floor, patients’ beds and almost everywhere else. He strongly objected to this situation, and told me that I should have gone up the ladder by first becoming a House Officer, then a District Medical Assistant and finally a District Medical Officer.

He asked me for my name in writing. Secretly rejoicing at the sudden turn of events, I wrote my name in block capitals on a sheet of paper and handed it to him. Just 11 days had passed when I received a telegram requesting me to report immediately at the Thoracic Unit of the General Hospital Colombo. Without wasting unnecessary time, lest the transfer be canceled, I left Pallebedde the very next day.

The Unit had two House Officers, one of whom was Dr H D Goonetilleke who in later life became an excellent surgeon. The other was a relief House Officer. I was asked to act for HD who had taken two weeks leave for a jungle trip where he and a couple of his friends walked from Buttala to Kumana along Kumbukkan Oya. When HD returned to work after his leave, I was appointed second House Officer to the unit.

A few weeks after his return, he screened a cine film he had made on the trip. It was very interesting and had scenes that included views of animals, cooking of meals in the jungle and walking along the dry riverbed. This film impressed me greatly, and when HD arranged another trip to the jungle a few months later, I joined him. This time the destination was the area around Galge in the North Intermediate Zone of Ruhuna National Park, and the objective was to shoot a leopard. He had obtained permits to shoot both leopard and deer, for the latter had to be provided as bait for the leopard. At that time, however, no permit was required to shoot leopard, as well as bear, in areas outside the Intermediate Zones as these animals were classed as vermin. I had no intention of shooting any animal, for never have I shot one. My only interest was to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the jungle.

Our party, consisting of HD, two of his friends, a tracker whose home was in Kataragama and myself, left Colombo in a four-wheel drive vehicle. We had an unforgettable onward journey. Heavy rain which we experienced in Colombo, fell unabated till we reached Kataragama in the night. We spent the night sleeping on the floor in a vacant hut at Kataragama.

When we woke up next morning, we found that the heavy overnight rain had turned Menik Ganga into a turbulent and muddy river. In the absence of a motorable bridge the vehicle had to be driven across the rough waters in order to reach our destination, but finding this an impossible task we decided to bide time till the water level went down.

At that time, pedestrians crossed the river using a narrow suspension bridge that would just allow two people to pass each other. Most of the time, when the water level was low, people would wade across the river instead of using the bridge.

That morning, as our party crossed the river along the bridge, we viewed with concern the state of the river which was turbulent and swollen. On the opposite side was the then small town containing boutiques, some of which were in the process of baking hoppers for breakfast. They were being made in the classical style where the pan was heated from below by a naked fire and above by a pot containing burning embers. We went to one of these stalls and helped ourselves to a fine repast of hot hoppers as each was taken off the pan. Eaten with a sambol containing a dash of Maldive fish, the hoppers tasted really delicious. The circumstances under which we ate the meal makes me remember it with nostalgia.

There being no rain since early morning, the level of water in the river had gone down sufficiently by noon to make us attempt a crossing. The vehicle was slowly driven into the water. The front wheels became submerged first, followed by the rear wheels. It moved forward another yard or two when the engine started to splutter and then stop altogether. In our predicament we were wondering what we should do, when a crowd of about 50 men collected on the opposite bank. They commissioned two lengths of tough rope, tethered each to the vehicle and pulled it to dry land. It did not take more than a few minutes for the crowd to accomplish the task.

At this stage, we failed, however, to start the engine. The reason was that the sump had got filled with water when the exhaust was submerged under water. Fortunately we had brought with us a can of engine oil from Colombo, for none was available at Kataragama at that time. We emptied the watery contents of the sump, which consisted of a mixture of water and oil, and poured in the new oil. The engine then started and we were on our way to Veddange Vadiya, which is the name of a place derived from the fact that Veddhas once lived there.

The road was a cart track, and the vehicle found it extremely difficult to negotiate it at places where the road had burrowed through hillocks. The track was so narrow at these spots that the hood of the vehicle almost touched the sides of the hillock as it swayed from side to side on the uneven road. Finally, after negotiating these narrow stretches, at some of which we had to get down from the vehicle and walk behind it, we reached Hendikema, which was three miles from Veddange Vadiya.

Just past Hendikema long stretches of road were inundated with water from overnight rain. The vehicle managed to go through these flooded areas and turn left a short distance from Hendikema towards Veddange Vadiya. With difficulty the vehicle was able to negotiate the muddy, slippery track till we came to a stream that ran across it. When attempting to cross it, the vehicle got stuck in the mud and the engine stalled. Repeated attempts to restart it failed despite all the mechanical knowledge we could muster. As it was then late evening. we decided to spend the night at the spot.

Hammocks

I was thrilled to sleep in a hammock for the first time in my life. The hammocks we had brought with us were sold by pavement hawkers in the Pettah at the end of the war in 1945. These, along with other items that were sold, such as gas masks, were part of the equipment that was used by the Eighth Army in Burma. They were sold as redundant material once the war ended.

These hammocks, which one does not come across now, were very comfortable and insect- and rain-proof. They had a canvas awning as the roof. Between this roof and the canvas was nylon netting about 18 inches high which encircled the entire hammock. It kept away all insects, including mosquitoes. The prospective occupant entered the hammock through a long opening in the netting, and once inside a zip was available to close the opening. These hammocks were safe and comfortable for sleeping in the jungle, as they did not permit disturbance of the occupant by rain and insects, and even tree snakes.

After dinner, HD together with one of his friends and the tracker took their guns and went hunting, leaving me and the other friend in the camp. I got into the hammock and dozed off. Later I heard a couple of gunshots in the distance and knew our friends had succeeded in shooting some animal, which we found out in the morning to be a deer. We also heard the sawing of leopard, indicating that these animals were quite common in the area, and justified HD’s decision to come to the Intermediate Zone around Galge to bag one.

Veddange Vadiya

The next morning we returned to the vehicle to try to revive it. The engine, which refused to start in spite of valiant efforts the previous evening, suddenly responded to the self-starter. We were once again on our way to Veddange Vadiya, but after proceeding a few hundred yards we found that we could not go further as the wheels were getting bogged in the mud. We then decided to leave the vehicle behind and make a quick visit to Veddange Vadiya on foot. The distance was about two miles through thick jungle in which we only saw a sambhur. Finally we reached the place which was a very quiet spot on the Menik Ganga..

At the time it puzzled me how an uninhabited jungle scenario, far away from all human habitations, could bear a name. Subsequently, to add to the problem, I came across several such places in thickly forested areas which bore various names. It is possible that centuries ago these were inhabited villages with their own names in the then populated dry zone, but centuries of neglect brought on by internecine wars and diseases, such as malaria, would have wiped off their existence, leaving only the names. As some evidence in support of this, one may mention the named sites in the thick jungle, which show evidence of monastic life centuries ago, such as caves with inscriptions and waterholes. It is conceivable that names lingered on, while other evidence of habitation disappeared.

Our original intention was to camp at Veddange Vadiya, but on inspecting the muddy terrain, we decided against it. After spending a couple of hours there, during which we enjoyed a pleasant bath in the Menik Ganga, we returned to the vehicle. Having now decided to camp at Hendikema, we got into the vehicle and went back along the same route.

Hendikema

Hendikema too was an uninhabited place, but the name bears a linkage to a known fact. It has a water-hole which bears the name, Hendi (spoon) kema (water-hole). At the time we camped there, the water-hole had an opening, which was very small and would just admit a ladle made with coconut shell. The sheet of water in the hole was not visible as it was fully covered by the rock.

Hendikema was on the Buttala-Kataragama jungle track, which was used by pilgrims on their visits to and from the sylvan shrine. It provided them with a regular source of water. In order to draw water, pilgrims used to keep a coconut shell ladle at the spot. From time to time, when worn off, it was replaced by succeeding pilgrims over the years.

One of the reasons given for the presence of a large number of leopards around Galge at the time, was the appearance of pilgrims during the season. Many devotees from the plantation districts used to flock along this jungle track. Some of them were children in arms, while there were decrepit old men and women tottering on their walking sticks. Lack of proper meals would have sapped their strength, while diseases, such as cholera, would take their toll. In other words, there was no lack of prospective victims for leopards on the prowl. It is said that in 1945 a man-eating leopard accounted for 15 victims on this road before it was shot by a man in the employ of the Forest Department. In addition, leopards would have feasted on bodies of pilgrims who had died of starvation and disease.

(To be continued next week)

(Excerpted from Jungle Journeys in Sri Lanka compiled by CG Uragoda)



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US withdrawal from UNHRC, a boon to political repression and ultra-nationalism

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President Trump in a meeting with President Putin. The New York Times

The US’ reported withdrawal from the UNHRC and some other vital UN agencies could be seen as a fillip to anti-democratic and ultra-nationalistic forces worldwide. Besides, the stark message is being conveyed that the developing regions of the world would from now on suffer further impoverishment and powerlessness.

The UNHRC needs to be more effective and proactive in bringing to book those states that are lagging in upholding and implementing human rights standards. But thus far it has been notable in the main in only ‘naming and shaming’ periodically those countries that stand accused of human rights and associated violations. More states and their rulers who have proved notorious violators of International Law, for instance, need to be brought to justice.

Hopefully, the UNHRC would be more dynamic in carrying out its responsibilities going forward but it needs material, moral and financial sustenance in increasing measure as it goes about trying to implement its brief. By withdrawing its support for the UNHRC at this juncture the US has further weakened the body and thereby provided a stimulant to the forces of repression worldwide.

What ought to be equally disquieting for the ethically-conscious is the withdrawal of US support for the WHO, the UN agency for Palestinian refugees or the UNRWA and the Paris Climate Agreement. With these actions the US under President Donald Trump has forfeited all claims to being the world’s foremost democracy. It could no longer lead from the front, so to speak, in championing human rights and democratic development.

It is no coincidence that almost at the time of these decisions by the US, President Trump is meeting with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. At the time of writing what transpired at these talks is not known to the public but it is plain to see that under the ultra-rightist Israeli Prime Minister, there would be no easy closure to the Middle East conflict and the accompanying blood-letting.

This is in view of the fact that the hawkish Trump administration would be hand-in-glove with the Netanyahu regime right along. There would be no political solution in the foreseeable future nor could it be guaranteed by the main stakeholders to the Middle East question that the current ceasefire would continue.

As mentioned in this column before, Israel would need strong security guarantees from the Palestinian camp and its supporters before it sits earnestly at the negotiating table but a policy of repression by the Israeli state would in no way help in resolving the conflict and in ushering even a measure of peace in the region. With the staunch support of the Trump administration the Netanyahu regime could stave off Palestinian resistance for the time being and save face among its supporters but peace in the Middle East would continue to be a lost cause.

The issues in focus would only be further compounded by the US decision to cease support for the rehabilitation and material sustenance of Palestinian refugees. This policy decision would only result in the further alienation and estrangement of Palestinians from the Western world. Consequently, Intifada-type uprisings should only be expected in the future.

As should be obvious, the US decision to pull out of the WHO would further weaken this vital agency of the UN. A drop in material, medical and financial assistance for the WHO would translate into graver hardships for the suffering civilians in the world’s conflict and war zones. The end result could be the alienation of the communities concerned from the wider international community, resulting in escalating law and order and governance issues worldwide. Among other things, the world would be having on its hands aggravating identity politics consequent to civilian publics being radicalized.

Considering the foregoing, the inference is inescapable that the US is heading in the direction of increasing international isolation and a policy of disengaging from multilateral institutions and arrangements geared to worthy causes that could serve world peace. As matters stand, it would not be wrong to conclude that the Trump administration is quite content with the prevailing ‘international disorder’.

One of the most negative consequences of the US decision to pull out of the UNHRC is the encouragement the forces of repression and ultra-nationalism could gain by it. In almost all the states of South Asia, to consider one region that is notable from this viewpoint, the forces of ultra-nationalism and majoritarian chauvinism could be said to be predominant.

Unfortunately, such forces seem to be on the rise once again in even post-Hasina Bangladesh. In Sri Lanka these forces are somewhat dormant at present but they could erupt to the surface, depending on how diligently the present government guards against their rise.

However, the government of Sri Lanka could not be said to be going the extra mile currently to blunt the appeal of ultra-nationalism, whether it is of the Southern kind or of the Northern kind. Crunch time for the Sri Lankan state would come when it has to seriously cooperate with the UNHRC and help bring those accused of war crimes in Sri Lanka to justice. On whether it could cooperate in this exercise would depend the democratic credentials of the present regime.

The cumulative result of the Trump administration weakening the UN and its agencies would be the relentless rise of anti-democratic, fascistic and repressive regimes the world over. Given this backdrop, one could expect the war in the Ukraine and those wasting civil wars in Africa to rage on. In the case of the Ukraine, the possibility of the US and NATO not being of one mind on ways of ending the war there, could render closure of the conflict any time soon impossible.

However, waiting on the US with the expectation that it would be pulling itself together, so to speak, before long and addressing the issue of international law and order would be tantamount to handing over the world to a most uncertain future. It is highly unlikely that the Trump administration would prove equal to the challenge of bringing even a measure of order out of the current global chaos, given the primacy it would be attaching to what it sees as its national interest.

Rather than wait in suspense, democracy oriented sections the world over would do well to come together in a meeting of minds, with the UN playing a catalytic role in it, to figure out how they could pool all the resources at their command to bring about a world order that would be more respectful of International Law in word and spirit.

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‘The Onset: A Short Story’: A philosophical drama attempting to redefine perception and cinema

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A scene from the movie with Hannah Brennen and Matt Heakes

Debut filmmaker, Thevin Gamage, presents a bold challenge to the time-honoured conventions of cinema. Through his daring short film, Thevin invites audiences to reconsider ‘the truth’ of cinematic rules. The 180-degree rule is broken with seamless subtlety, and a fresh perspective is offered on breaking the fourth wall.

This 13+ minute dialogue-driven drama, ‘The Onset: A Short Story’ featuring two actors and created with the collaboration of a debut cinematographer, was shot entirely in his living room—a testament to ingenuity and creative audacity.

The film not only aims to redefine the language of cinema but also thematically contests one of Plato’s most renowned teachings—The Allegory of the Cave. Thevin offers a fresh lens to examine ‘truth’ blending bold cinematic innovation with a philosophical exploration of perception, arrogance, and enlightenment.

At its heart, this story reflects the universal tension between belief and truth, highlighting the cost of breaking free from illusions. His debut is both a defiant act of rebellion and a bold invitation to shape the evolution of future cinema, leaving audiences with as many questions as answers.

Born into a family of artists in Sri Lanka, Thevin, grew up surrounded by a legacy of creativity yet confined by the traditional expectations of society. His parents achieved success as actors and later as entrepreneurs.

For Thevin, questioning the rules was not rebellion for its own sake—it was a search for freedom, truth, and new perspectives. This drive began in childhood, where strict parental expectations collided with his innate creativity. Movies became his escape, a lens through which he experienced life, love, and possibility.

Yet it wasn’t until his late twenties, after years of academic success and professional detours that he finally embraced his calling as a filmmaker. His audacious short film bridges his personal journey with his artistic vision. By breaking the 180-degree rule and redefining the fourth wall, the film demonstrates that cinematic rules can evolve—not as acts of rebellion, but as purposeful explorations of storytelling.

In the spirit of art and its boundless novelty, Thevin Gamage seeks to induct exactly that: originality.

His debut film is a bold exploration of cinematic boundaries and philosophical inquiry, redefining two foundational principles of cinema. This film invites audiences to experience a narrative that subtly bends the historical rules of the 180-degree rule and the fourth wall—often without them even realizing it.

This debut dares you.

It’s a resolute challenge to tradition and a provocative reminder that “rules” are just a few letters that form a word.

****

About young filmmaker

Thevin Gamage

Thevin Gamage is a South Asian filmmaker whose journey reflects both a profound reverence for tradition and an unrelenting desire to transcend it.

Born into a family of artists in Sri Lanka, Thevin was shaped by a legacy of creativity and resilience. His grandfather, Sri Lanka’s first film makeup artist, pioneered his craft with remarkable dedication, laying the foundation for a family deeply rooted in the arts. Though Thevin never met him, his grandfather Regie de Silva’strailblazing work ethic and passion for storytelling helped shape the family ethos, inspiring Thevin’s mother and, in turn, Thevin himself. Reggie was the first Sri Lankan makeup artist. He went to India for his studies in makeup artistry and was active during the era when B.A.W. Jayamanne and Rukmani Devi pioneered the Sri Lankan film industry.

Thevin’s mother, Kumudumali De Silva, a celebrated Best Supporting Actress winner two decades ago and recent Lifetime Achievement Award honoree for her contributions to the wedding industry, met his father, Nihal Gamage, while on set. Together, they transitioned from the entertainment industry to entrepreneurial success, founding a wedding photography and bridal dressing business. Their ventures flourished, even leading to the publication of their own wedding magazine, providing a middle-class life of success and recognition.

Despite these creative roots, societal expectations in Sri Lanka compelled Thevin to pursue academics. After excelling at the University of Toronto with a degree in Political Science, Economics, and Psychology, Thevin still yearned for storytelling. In his late twenties, after years of professional detours, he enrolled in film school and committed fully to his craft.

Operating outside the framework of traditional film production companies, Thevin embraced the challenges of independence. From conceptualization to execution, his debut film is a testament to his determination, ingenuity, and unwavering commitment to his vision. His journey as an independent filmmaker exemplifies the power of creative freedom to challenge norms and shape unique perspectives.

Thevin’s work invites audiences to question, reimagine, and ultimately transform their understanding of storytelling. His journey is not just one of artistic pursuit but an act of defiance—an effort to inspire others to embrace the power of the arts and forge paths beyond traditional norms.

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Top three at 40th Mrs World pageant

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Mrs World – South Africa: Tshego Gaelae (L) / First Runner-up – Sri Lanka: Ishadi Amanda (M) / Second Runner-up – Thailand: Ploy Panperm (R)

While South African model Tshego Gaelae becomes the first Black woman to win the Mrs. World title in its 40-year history, we, too, were in the spotlight, at the finals.

Ishadi Amanda took the No. 02 slot, being the first runner-up at the prestigious pageant, held in Las Vegas, USA, from 29-30 January, 2025.

Thailand’s Ploy Panperm was placed third, as the second runner-up.

Sri Lanka’s Ishadi had support from the audience when her name was announced as one of the three finalists.

The Mrs World pageant winner, from South Africa, expressed her thanks on Instagram, saying, “To God be the glory. Thank you so much for the love and support, I am beyond grateful and elated! My beautiful South Africa, the crown is coming home,” she shared with her followers, encapsulating her elation and gratitude.

The Mrs World pageant, established in 1984, stands as the first international beauty contest solely for married women, providing a platform for married contestants to showcase not just their beauty, but also their intellect and community outreach efforts.

Before being picked as the winner, Mrs South Africa was asked: “What is the biggest challenge you have faced and achieved?” And her answer was brilliant:

Rosy Senanayake: Mrs World 1984

“I was so stressed on social media. Social media people should use it to share knowledge and good things. But it’s used to stress people out. But I stood up for myself without that social media pressure. I used the same social media that stressed me out to share good thoughts and hope to get to the victorious place I am today.”

Gaelae’s success is a testament to the ideals celebrated by the pageant, where diversity and empowerment take centre stage.

Gaelae balances her roles as a devoted mother, wife, labour relations manager, and model.

Being the first black woman to clinch the title at the Mrs World pageant has ignited a sense of pride and celebration among South Africans.

The Mrs South Africa Organisation, which played a crucial role in supporting Gaelae’s remarkable journey, also expressed their pride through a statement: “From Soweto to Vegas and now the World, @mrsworldpageant The Crown is Coming Home! Thank you to everyone who supported our queen on her incredible Journey.”

Gaelae returned home to a triumphant celebration fit for a queen.

At the airport to welcome her were her family, friends, church community, the Mrs South African team board and alumni, and the Executive Mayor of Johannesburg.

The crowning of the 40th Mrs World winner

And, guess what? Gaelae is now in touch with me!

Second Runner-up Mrs Thailand Ploy Panperm is quoted as having said: “I believe that modern married women have the potential to excel in multiple roles – as wives, mothers and even as beauty queens – embodying intelligence, talent and beauty.”

For the record, it was our very own Rosy Senanayake who brought Sri Lanka fame at this pageant … being crowned Mrs World at the very first Mrs World pageant, in 1984.

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