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Memorable jungle excursions



by C.G. Uragoda

Ever since my first camping trip to Hendikema in 1953, I have paid regular visits to the jungles. At first these were few and far between, but in later years they became more frequent, reaching two or three a year. Many a time have I camped out in the jungle, with nearby running water that makes the stay a very pleasant and comfortable one. Some of these trips are etched in my memory on account of experiences I have had in the jungle. In the past 20 years or so, due to the war, I have not been able to visit the north and the east, but with peace prevailing in the country in 2002, I have renewed my trips to these parts.

First camping trip

My first camping trip to the jungles of Sri Lanka was in 1953 when I was a house officer at the General Hospital, Colombo. My first substantive appointment in the then Department of Medical and Sanitary Services was as District Medical Officer at Pallebedde, a place unheard of by me till then. As was usually the case in such situations at that time, I tried to get the appointment altered to a better known station, but having had no influence with the powers-that-be, I failed in my attempt. In three months, however, I was transferred to General Hospital, Colombo under strange circumstances when conventional methods did not bear fruit.

The Permanent Secretary to the Ministry of Health, Mr Somasunderam, paid a surprise visit to Pallebedde Hospital on his way back after inspecting the new Chest Hospital at Wirawila due to be opened shortly. He found the hospital replete with flies swarming on the floor, patients’ beds and almost everywhere else. He strongly objected to this situation, and told me that I should have gone up the ladder by first becoming a House Officer, then a District Medical Assistant and finally a District Medical Officer.

He asked me for my name in writing. Secretly rejoicing at the sudden turn of events, I wrote my name in block capitals on a sheet of paper and handed it to him. Just 11 days had passed when I received a telegram requesting me to report immediately at the Thoracic Unit of the General Hospital Colombo. Without wasting unnecessary time, lest the transfer be canceled, I left Pallebedde the very next day.

The Unit had two House Officers, one of whom was Dr H D Goonetilleke who in later life became an excellent surgeon. The other was a relief House Officer. I was asked to act for HD who had taken two weeks leave for a jungle trip where he and a couple of his friends walked from Buttala to Kumana along Kumbukkan Oya. When HD returned to work after his leave, I was appointed second House Officer to the unit.

A few weeks after his return, he screened a cine film he had made on the trip. It was very interesting and had scenes that included views of animals, cooking of meals in the jungle and walking along the dry riverbed. This film impressed me greatly, and when HD arranged another trip to the jungle a few months later, I joined him. This time the destination was the area around Galge in the North Intermediate Zone of Ruhuna National Park, and the objective was to shoot a leopard. He had obtained permits to shoot both leopard and deer, for the latter had to be provided as bait for the leopard. At that time, however, no permit was required to shoot leopard, as well as bear, in areas outside the Intermediate Zones as these animals were classed as vermin. I had no intention of shooting any animal, for never have I shot one. My only interest was to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the jungle.

Our party, consisting of HD, two of his friends, a tracker whose home was in Kataragama and myself, left Colombo in a four-wheel drive vehicle. We had an unforgettable onward journey. Heavy rain which we experienced in Colombo, fell unabated till we reached Kataragama in the night. We spent the night sleeping on the floor in a vacant hut at Kataragama.

When we woke up next morning, we found that the heavy overnight rain had turned Menik Ganga into a turbulent and muddy river. In the absence of a motorable bridge the vehicle had to be driven across the rough waters in order to reach our destination, but finding this an impossible task we decided to bide time till the water level went down.

At that time, pedestrians crossed the river using a narrow suspension bridge that would just allow two people to pass each other. Most of the time, when the water level was low, people would wade across the river instead of using the bridge.

That morning, as our party crossed the river along the bridge, we viewed with concern the state of the river which was turbulent and swollen. On the opposite side was the then small town containing boutiques, some of which were in the process of baking hoppers for breakfast. They were being made in the classical style where the pan was heated from below by a naked fire and above by a pot containing burning embers. We went to one of these stalls and helped ourselves to a fine repast of hot hoppers as each was taken off the pan. Eaten with a sambol containing a dash of Maldive fish, the hoppers tasted really delicious. The circumstances under which we ate the meal makes me remember it with nostalgia.

There being no rain since early morning, the level of water in the river had gone down sufficiently by noon to make us attempt a crossing. The vehicle was slowly driven into the water. The front wheels became submerged first, followed by the rear wheels. It moved forward another yard or two when the engine started to splutter and then stop altogether. In our predicament we were wondering what we should do, when a crowd of about 50 men collected on the opposite bank. They commissioned two lengths of tough rope, tethered each to the vehicle and pulled it to dry land. It did not take more than a few minutes for the crowd to accomplish the task.

At this stage, we failed, however, to start the engine. The reason was that the sump had got filled with water when the exhaust was submerged under water. Fortunately we had brought with us a can of engine oil from Colombo, for none was available at Kataragama at that time. We emptied the watery contents of the sump, which consisted of a mixture of water and oil, and poured in the new oil. The engine then started and we were on our way to Veddange Vadiya, which is the name of a place derived from the fact that Veddhas once lived there.

The road was a cart track, and the vehicle found it extremely difficult to negotiate it at places where the road had burrowed through hillocks. The track was so narrow at these spots that the hood of the vehicle almost touched the sides of the hillock as it swayed from side to side on the uneven road. Finally, after negotiating these narrow stretches, at some of which we had to get down from the vehicle and walk behind it, we reached Hendikema, which was three miles from Veddange Vadiya.

Just past Hendikema long stretches of road were inundated with water from overnight rain. The vehicle managed to go through these flooded areas and turn left a short distance from Hendikema towards Veddange Vadiya. With difficulty the vehicle was able to negotiate the muddy, slippery track till we came to a stream that ran across it. When attempting to cross it, the vehicle got stuck in the mud and the engine stalled. Repeated attempts to restart it failed despite all the mechanical knowledge we could muster. As it was then late evening. we decided to spend the night at the spot.


I was thrilled to sleep in a hammock for the first time in my life. The hammocks we had brought with us were sold by pavement hawkers in the Pettah at the end of the war in 1945. These, along with other items that were sold, such as gas masks, were part of the equipment that was used by the Eighth Army in Burma. They were sold as redundant material once the war ended.

These hammocks, which one does not come across now, were very comfortable and insect- and rain-proof. They had a canvas awning as the roof. Between this roof and the canvas was nylon netting about 18 inches high which encircled the entire hammock. It kept away all insects, including mosquitoes. The prospective occupant entered the hammock through a long opening in the netting, and once inside a zip was available to close the opening. These hammocks were safe and comfortable for sleeping in the jungle, as they did not permit disturbance of the occupant by rain and insects, and even tree snakes.

After dinner, HD together with one of his friends and the tracker took their guns and went hunting, leaving me and the other friend in the camp. I got into the hammock and dozed off. Later I heard a couple of gunshots in the distance and knew our friends had succeeded in shooting some animal, which we found out in the morning to be a deer. We also heard the sawing of leopard, indicating that these animals were quite common in the area, and justified HD’s decision to come to the Intermediate Zone around Galge to bag one.

Veddange Vadiya

The next morning we returned to the vehicle to try to revive it. The engine, which refused to start in spite of valiant efforts the previous evening, suddenly responded to the self-starter. We were once again on our way to Veddange Vadiya, but after proceeding a few hundred yards we found that we could not go further as the wheels were getting bogged in the mud. We then decided to leave the vehicle behind and make a quick visit to Veddange Vadiya on foot. The distance was about two miles through thick jungle in which we only saw a sambhur. Finally we reached the place which was a very quiet spot on the Menik Ganga..

At the time it puzzled me how an uninhabited jungle scenario, far away from all human habitations, could bear a name. Subsequently, to add to the problem, I came across several such places in thickly forested areas which bore various names. It is possible that centuries ago these were inhabited villages with their own names in the then populated dry zone, but centuries of neglect brought on by internecine wars and diseases, such as malaria, would have wiped off their existence, leaving only the names. As some evidence in support of this, one may mention the named sites in the thick jungle, which show evidence of monastic life centuries ago, such as caves with inscriptions and waterholes. It is conceivable that names lingered on, while other evidence of habitation disappeared.

Our original intention was to camp at Veddange Vadiya, but on inspecting the muddy terrain, we decided against it. After spending a couple of hours there, during which we enjoyed a pleasant bath in the Menik Ganga, we returned to the vehicle. Having now decided to camp at Hendikema, we got into the vehicle and went back along the same route.


Hendikema too was an uninhabited place, but the name bears a linkage to a known fact. It has a water-hole which bears the name, Hendi (spoon) kema (water-hole). At the time we camped there, the water-hole had an opening, which was very small and would just admit a ladle made with coconut shell. The sheet of water in the hole was not visible as it was fully covered by the rock.

Hendikema was on the Buttala-Kataragama jungle track, which was used by pilgrims on their visits to and from the sylvan shrine. It provided them with a regular source of water. In order to draw water, pilgrims used to keep a coconut shell ladle at the spot. From time to time, when worn off, it was replaced by succeeding pilgrims over the years.

One of the reasons given for the presence of a large number of leopards around Galge at the time, was the appearance of pilgrims during the season. Many devotees from the plantation districts used to flock along this jungle track. Some of them were children in arms, while there were decrepit old men and women tottering on their walking sticks. Lack of proper meals would have sapped their strength, while diseases, such as cholera, would take their toll. In other words, there was no lack of prospective victims for leopards on the prowl. It is said that in 1945 a man-eating leopard accounted for 15 victims on this road before it was shot by a man in the employ of the Forest Department. In addition, leopards would have feasted on bodies of pilgrims who had died of starvation and disease.

(To be continued next week)

(Excerpted from Jungle Journeys in Sri Lanka compiled by CG Uragoda)

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Ontario’s Bill 104: ‘Tamil Genocide Education or Miseducation Week?’



By Dharshan Weerasekera

In May 2021, the Legislative Assembly of Ontario adopted Bill 104. The stated purpose of the Bill is to, a) designate the week following May 18 each year as ‘Tamil Genocide Education Week’ and b) educate Ontarians about ‘Tamil Genocide and other genocides that have occurred in world history.’ The crucial question is, whether the charge of ‘Tamil genocide’ is true.

To the best of my knowledge, there has been very little substantive discussion of the above question in Sri Lankan or Canadian newspapers or academic journals in recent years and it is in public interest to begin such a discussion. Otherwise, there is a danger that the proposed ‘Tamil Genocide Education Week’ would turn out to be an exercise in mis-education of Canadians, most of whom are relatively unfamiliar with Sri Lanka.

In my view, there is absolutely no factual basis for anyone to claim that Tamils have been subjected to genocide in Sri Lanka. In this article, I shall briefly summarise the arguments made in a case filed in the Court of Appeal in September 2014, Polwatta Gallage Niroshan v. Inspector General of Police, Members of the Northern Provincial Council and others, CA/writ/332/2014. It is a public document. I was the Counsel in the case. The petitioner sought a writ of mandamus to compel the Attorney General to take action against members of the then Northern Provincial Council who had signed a letter (forwarded to the UN Human Rights High Commissioner) alleging genocide of Tamils in Sri Lanka.

Unfortunately, the Court declined to take up the case on technical grounds, namely, that the petitioner had failed to file a police complaint. The petitioner, a humble three-wheeler driver, did not have the financial wherewithal to pursue the matter further, but the case is very important in the present context because of two reasons: First, it shows that Sri Lankan citizens have rejected the allegation of Tamil genocide and even gone to the courts with regard to this matter.

Right of reply

Second, and more importantly, since the provincial legislature of a foreign country has asserted that Tamil genocide has happened, it is incumbent on the said legislature to provide a right of reply to all concerned Sri Lankans who reject the charge. Otherwise, one cannot expect the stated purpose of the Bill, education, to genuinely take place. In this regard, it is well to recall that natural justice, which includes the injunction “hear the other side” is an overriding principle (jus cogens) of international law.

Furthermore, one could argue that any funds allocated by the Ontario legislature, to advance the goals of the Bill, should be made available to members of Sri Lankan origin living in Ontario as well, who wish to tell their side of the story during the week in question. For all these reasons, the Sri Lankan case is important as a starting point for a substantive discussion of the charge of Tamil genocide. I give below the relevant portion:

“The 3rd – 35th Respondents, 28 of whom are members of the Northern Provincial Council and five are members of the Eastern Provincial Council, are signatories to a letter sent to the former United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights, Navinetham Pillay, titled, “Joint letter by members of the Northern Provincial Council and Eastern Provincial Council, 17 August 2014.” In the said letter the 3rd – 35th Respondents request the former UN Human Rights High Commissioner to acquaint her successor, as well as the investigating panel presently investigating Sri Lanka, with the matters contained in the letter.

Petitiner’s contention

The Petitioner contends that the said letter contains explicit statements capable of causing disharmony, ill-feeling and discord among the different ethnic groups of Sri Lanka, particularly the Sinhalese and the Tamils, that the 1st and 2nd Respondents have not taken any steps to investigate or prosecute the 3rd – 35th Respondents for the said statements under Section 120 of the Penal Code (raising discontent or disaffection or feelings of ill-will and hostility among the people) and therefore the Petitioner has a right to request the court for a writ of mandamus to compel action.

The letter makes three requests of the High Commissioner, the second of which is: “The Tamil people strongly believe that they have been, and continue to be, subjected to genocide in Sri Lanka. The Tamils were massacred in groups, their temples and churches were bombed, and their iconic Jaffna Public Library was burnt down in 1981 with its collection of largest and oldest priceless irreplaceable Tamil manuscripts. Systematic Sinhalese settlements and demographic changes with the intent to destroy the Tamil Nation, are taking place. We request that the OHCHR investigative them to look into the pattern of all the atrocities against the Tamil people, and to determine if Genocide has taken place.”

The Petitioner respectfully draws the attention of the court to two matters in the above passage:


The assertion that Genocide has been practised against the Tamils in Sri Lanka.


That “Sinhalese settlements and demographic changes” are being carried out with the “intent to destroy the Tamil Nation.”

The Petitioner is of the view that, the above two assertions are demonstrably false, and, as a citizen of Sri Lanka, is personally offended and angered by them, and considers that thousands of other citizens of this country feel this way also.

The Petitioner further considers that, false accusations regarding highly sensitive issues made directly to the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights urging her to investigate the purported offenses constitute an attempt to “raise discontent or disaffection amongst the People of Sri Lanka, or to promote feelings of ill-will and hostility between different classes of such people” for the following reasons. The crime of genocide has a technical meaning in international law, and one can assess objectively whether or not that crime has been committed. The definition of genocide is set out in the Convention on the Prevention of Genocide (1948) and is as follows:

“[Article 2] In the present Convention, genocide means any of the following acts committed with the intent to destroy, in whole or in part, a national, ethnical, racial or religious group, as such:


Killing members of the group;


Causing serious bodily harm or mental harm to members of the group;


Deliberately inflicting on the group conditions of life calculated to bring about its physical destruction in whole or in part.


Imposing measures intended to prevent births within the group;


Forcibly transferring children of the group to another group.”

From the above, it is clear that the crime of “Genocide” has two components: the intention to destroy, in whole or in part, a national, ethnical, racial or religious group, and also the committing of one or more of the acts enumerated under points a – e. It is possible to objectively assess whether, in a given set of circumstances, each of those components is present. Similarly, the accusation regarding settlements and the claim that the intent behind these settlements is to destroy the “Tamil Nation” can be objectively assessed.

The Petitioner asserts that, the Sinhalese people have not committed genocide against the Tamil people, or imposed settlements to destroy the Tamil People, or any “Tamil Nation” within this country, and that facts exist to prove these matters. In particular, the Petitioner wishes to draw the attention of the court to the following points: With respect to the accusation of genocide, the following facts are relevant:


Firstly, if the charge of ‘Genocide’ is with respect to the period from Independence to the start of the war, roughly 1948 – 1981, then statistics are available regarding key economic factors such as income, production assets in agriculture and manufacturing, employment, access to education, and access to health services. ((The most recent island-wide census was in 2012 which is after the war. But there is a census for 1981.) If discernible discrepancies exist between the statistics for the Sinhalese and the Tamils with regard to the above factors, a reasonable inference can be drawn that the Tamils have been systematically discriminated against, which would support the contention that the Tamils have been subjected to a genocidal campaign.

The Petitioner is of the considered view that a comparison of the aforementioned factors will show no discernible differences between the Sinhalese and the Tamils, and draws support for this contention from the assessment of Professor G.H. Peiris, one of Sri Lanka’s most respected scholars, who analyses the said factors in a chapter titled “Economic causes for ethnic conflict” in his book, Sri Lanka: Challenges for the new Millennium (2006). The said assessment is as follows:

“To generalize, the overall impression conveyed by these conclusions is that, except when the “Indian Tamils” of the plantation sector (who still suffer from various deprivations compared to other groups) are taken into account, up to about the third decade after independence, socio-economic stratifications—variations in wealth, income, power and privilege, or dichotomies such as those of “haves versus have-nots” or “exploiter versus exploited”—did not exhibit significant correspondences to the main ethnic differences in the country. And, there was certainly no economically “dominant” ethnic group.” (p. 436.)

Secondly, if the charge of “Genocide” is with respect to the period of the war, census data exists which indicate that between 1981 and 2001 (the period of the war) there was a substantial increase in the Tamil population in the Sinhalese-majority areas due to the migration of Tamils from the North-East to that area. Such a movement of Tamils could not have occurred if the Tamils were being subject to genocide.

Also, one can consider the fact that throughout the 30-year civil war, the salaries of government workers in the North and East, large parts of which were under the de facto control of the LTTE, were paid by the Government. Medicine, food, and other essentials were also sent to those areas throughout the conflict. All this does not bespeak an attempt at genocide, rather, the exact opposite.

Finally, if the charge of “Genocide” is with respect to the last phases of the war, i.e. January 2009 – May 2009, the undisputed fact that the security forces were able to rescue approximately 350,000 Tamils who were held hostage by the LTTE indicates the absence of “Genocide.” The Petitioner therefore draws the natural inference suggested by all of the facts set out above, namely, that the Tamils have not been subjected to genocide in this country.


With respect to the accusation about settlements, the following facts are relevant. Firstly, if by “Tamil Nation” what the signatories mean is a territorial unit, what are the boundaries of this unit, and by what law is it recognized? If answers cannot be provided to these questions, then no “Tamil Nation” exists. If the existence of such a territorial unit cannot be established, the assertion that the intent behind the settlements is to destroy the “Tamil Nation” cannot be sustained, since that which does not exist cannot be destroyed.

Secondly, if by “Tamil Nation” the 3rd – 35th Respondents mean the areas of the island where Tamils comprise the majority ethnic group relative to the Sinhalese and the Muslims—i.e. the Northern and the Eastern Provinces—it is true that a certain number of Sinhalese settlements were established in the course of various development projects. Nevertheless, statistics exist in the public domain that show Tamil settlements were established along with the Sinhalese settlements, and that, taken as a whole, the distribution of the settlements, when considered in terms of area, as well as development project, was done in an equitable and fair fashion. (See for example, Professor K.M De Silva Separatist Ideology in Sri Lanka: A Historical Appraisal, 2nd ed. International Center for Ethnic Studies, 1995).

Thirdly, if the 3rd – 35th Respondents are claiming that settlements are being systematically established at present, it is incumbent on the 3rd – 35th Respondents to name what those settlements are, and to address the following matter: the Sri Lanka Constitution guarantees to every citizen, “Freedom of movement and of choosing one’s residence within Sri Lanka” (Art. 14(h)) which means that anyone who claims that Sinhalese settlements are illegal or wrong must show that those settlements are being established in excess of, or in ways that contravene, the aforesaid right.

The Petitioner repeats that, facts related to the points enumerated above are in the public domain. Therefore, the claim by the 3rd – 35th Respondents, that the Sinhalese are committing genocide against Tamils, and also imposing settlements to destroy the “Tamil Nation” are deliberate falsehoods, unless they can present some evidence to justify and explain their claims.

The Petitioner is of the view that, deliberate falsehoods such as the ones mentioned above can have only one result: the promotion of feelings of ill-will and hostility between different groups in this country, in this case the Sinhalese and the Tamils, and that if the signatories cannot produce evidence to justify and explain their claims, those claims show an ex facie intention to promote the said feelings of ill-will and hostility between Sinhalese and Tamil people.”


The stated purpose of Bill 104 is to ‘educate’ Ontarians about Tamil genocide. However, there is a grave danger that this will result in ‘mis-education’ of Ontarians along with Canadians in general, about the issue in question leading to a possible break-down in good relations between Canadians and Sri Lankans which should be a matter of concern for the Canadian Federal Government. Therefore, a substantive public discussion about whether or not Tamil genocide has occurred is urgently needed and this must necessarily involve giving Canadians a chance to ‘hear the other side’ of the story. Polwatta Gallage Niroshan’s case offers a good starting point from which to offer Canadians and other foreigners a glimpse into that ‘other side’.

(The writer is an Attorney-at-Law and consultant for the Strategic Communications Unit at the Lakshman Kadirgamar Institute.)

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India-Russia ‘special relationship’ surviving global political tensions



That this is so, is plain to see. India’s alliance with the US continues to be robust and multi-faceted. A case in point is the QUAD grouping which has India’s support and is focused on blunting China’s influence and power in the Asia-Pacific. However, India remains a principal pillar of the BRICS grouping as well, in which China and Russia figure prominently, besides other formations where India and Russia collaborate. Pragmatism is clearly the high note in India’s foreign policy.

If there ever has been an ‘all-weather friendship’ in international politics thus far, it is this ‘special relationship’ between India and Russia. So great have been the political storms this tie has survived over the decades that it could be considered almost a model bilateral relationship.

The relationship began to acquire particularly modern political nuances during the Nehru years. Those were times when the Cold War was at its height. Former Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru began to give visionary and dynamic leadership to the Non-aligned Movement, the core principles of which formed the cornerstone of the foreign policies of many a Third World country. The NAM’s anti-colonial and anti-Western bent rendered its fundamental principles and values amenable to Russia and China. In this way was cemented India-Russia solidarity.

Considering that the bi-polar international political system of the Cold War decades has given way over the past 30 years to a multi-polar one, non-alignment in its traditional sense has no validity currently. This is on account of the USSR-dominated Warsaw Pact disintegrating since the nineties, when the USSR began to lose its super power status. However, Russia continues as a major world power in an international political system, which unlike the Cold War decades, is characterized by VUCA – volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity.

The latter backdrop renders Russia’s moves on the world stage particularly engrossing. For example, what special meaning is Russia reading into its ties with India in present times? In what ways will India’s current tensions with China affect Russia’s special ties with India, considering that Russia and China generally tend to have identical positions on important questions in world politics?

These and many more issues are thrown-up by the India-Russia ‘special relationship’ which continues seemingly unruffled by current uncertainties and tensions in global politics. Right away it could be stated, though, that the enduring tie is in good hands on the Indian side.

Prime Minister Narendra Modi, being a consummate pragmatist, is bound to look at the relationship through a range of angles with India’s national interest taking foremost position. With Modi at the helm, India is likely to have largely trouble-free ties with all those powers that are proving important from the viewpoint of India’s prime interests. For instance, India would be conducting cordial ties with the US while pursuing mutually-advantageous relations with Russia.

That this is so, is plain to see. India’s alliance with the US continues to be robust and multi-faceted. A case in point is the QUAD grouping which has India’s support and is focused on blunting China’s influence and power in the Asia-Pacific. However, India remains a principal pillar of the BRICS grouping as well, in which China and Russia figure prominently, besides other formations where India and Russia collaborate. Pragmatism is clearly the high note in India’s foreign policy.

Recent developments in India-Russia ties bear the latter point out quite emphatically. Russian President Vladimir Putin has just been to India to participate in the 21st India-Russia Annual Summit. Several new dimensions have been added to this summit through the introduction at the end of the talks of what is called the ‘2+2 dialogue mechanism’ at the countries’ foreign and defense minister levels.

Of particular interest is the defense minister level parley. A number of agreements were arrived at between the countries that have a close bearing on their defense capabilities, besides enhancing their ties in the field of armaments manufacture. For example, the sides reportedly signed contracts for the manufacture of some 610,000 AK-203 assault rifles through a joint venture in Uttar Pradesh. The deal is said to be

worth $ 6.66 million. Agreements in the logistics field and a navy-to-navy cooperation MoU are also reportedly taking shape.

While the foreign policy orientation of India could be said to be relatively free of ambiguities, the same could not be said of Russia which could be expected to have many more challenges to cope with. Some tight rope walking awaits it in South and South West Asia, for example.

In these regions Russia has to relate cordially with India while ensuring that its ties with China are not undermined. The arduous nature of the latter task is underscored by the fact that China is losing no time to fill the power vacuum in Afghanistan, which was created by the US troop withdrawal in August. China could be said to be Russia’s natural ally in South and South West Asia, but its need to keep its relationship with India going would oblige Russia to maintain a neutral position in the India-China power struggle. Thus, Russia would be compelled to finely balance its relations between China and India.

Russia and other major powers would also need to come to terms with the fact that unlike in the heyday of NAM, India is almost on equal terms with the US and China. This is particularly so in the area of armaments manufacture, not to mention its increasing stature as a number one economic power. Its long-range missile technology, for instance, is not second to that of China. In fact, it enjoys a slight edge over China in this area.

Besides, India has grown into a major arms exporter. Of late it has exported armaments worth $5.06 billion to 84 countries. Thus, it is reaping the fruits of having developed an indigenous arms manufacturing base over the years. It has quite adequately risen to the challenges posed by its major competitors in Asia and outside. All these capabilities and more of India need to be factored in by those powers that are seeking to compete with it for power and influence globally.

Accordingly, the India of today, Russia would realize, has come a very long way from its NAM years in the fifties and sixties. India has by no means overcome some of its negative legacies of the past, such as widespread poverty, but in some crucial respects, it is on par with quite a few major powers of the West. If the agreements Russia has just arrived at with India are any pointer, it too has come to realize that it is in the economic field that relations with India would bear most fruit today. Like India, Russia too has come to prize economic pragmatism in inter-state ties.

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Sri Lankans, for better or for worse



There were no words to explain to a Singaporean why a stranger bought us cakes and coffee simply because he and I were born in the same country. No, that’s something my Chinese friend would never understand.

Capt Elmo Jayawardena

I wrote some articles to the newspapers mainly about Sri Lankan matters and the political climate after the war ended. It was just to share my humble thoughts on where we should be heading in search of peace. Many acknowledged my line of thinking, and some asked me why I did not write something about aviation? Not a bad idea, considering I have been around aeroplanes for more than 50 years. But I did wonder who would want to know how I landed through a snow-laden sky in Alaska, or how I flew over the Golden Gate Bridge on my way from San Francisco to Hong Kong? At best, it could all be a bit on the boring side. Yes, I do have some unbelievable fairy tales to relate of times I flew VVIPs for Air Lanka, but such involve names, and names are a dangerous game. I like to keep my home intact and not see the roof going up in flames. Let me change track and tell you some stories I have in connection with aviation and meeting fellow Sri Lankans. All this is true––in black and white and not drawn with colourful crayons.

Singapore to Auckland is a long night trip, 10-plus hours and I was walking to the aeroplane, passing the checking counters. They were all empty, passengers labelled and weighed and sent to wait in the lounge for the doors to open. That’s when I noticed something familiar. There were two men standing by the counter, one look, and I knew where they were from. The Halmilla and Burutha suits were unmistakable and we Sri Lankans stand out like shop window dummies in dark browns and navy blues that Hameedia stitches for us. The two waiting by the checking-in counter appeared to be having a problem––solemn faces, like those of funeral directors.

“We could not get on the flight; it is full, and we have to be in Auckland tomorrow for a cargo meeting.” Well, they were Sri Lankan and that was all the qualification I needed.

“Put them on the flight deck and I will take them.” This was pre 9/11 when the world was a little less violent; the instruction was to the checking desk clerk and the Captain’s words carried weight in SIA. Matter sorted out, Halmilla and Burutha got an instant promotion to cockpit status, not to be folded in the cheese class like sardines, but in pole position, Lewis Hamilton style, right in front. Off we went in the big jumbo jet, 400-plus passengers with two Chinese and three Sri Lankans in the cockpit.

It was a long night and the autopilot was doing the work and we chatted away; no “machang-bachang” talk, but palatable conversation to pass the time cruising in a beautiful star-sprinkled sky on a black velvet night. Indonesian islands went underneath while we ate cock-pit dinner, and time crawled and the night got long as the aeroplane crossed the vastness of the Australian continent. The talk was Sri Lankan and of home; who they were; who I was and many more mundane conversations. We discussed how the fabulous Moonstones had come to the limelight of music and how Clarence rode his bicycle, carrying his guitar to the Malawana house, where they created the immortal lyrics of Mango Nanda and Dilhani and coined “numbata ridainam, hemihita vatiyan, Dunhinda manamali.

Great stories to swap, especially because Halmilla was a Moonstone musician.

The night dragged on and the two Chinese pilots took care of the cruise work and we talked and talked till the distant sky turned tangerine and heron blue promising the dawn, and it was time for me to get to work and bring the big bird down.

I wonder whether an Englishman standing at a ticketing counter in Heathrow could tell a British Airways Captain that he is from Liverpool and get to go in the cockpit because he is English? My two cargo friends are big businessmen now. One I saw some time ago sipping champagne, seated in the business class. He’s obviously done well, has traded his Halmilla to travel in a T-shirt; that is progress. The other I met at a book launch and I was so happy when he came up to me and said, ‘Hello.’ He is in the top rung of corporate businessmen, but the same simple man who took the flight-deck ride to Auckland. Maybe, they will read what I have written and remember how they flew on an SIA 747 with a fellow Sri Lankan. This is not about Airline Captains; nor am I soliciting brownie points for assisting stranded passengers. It is all about being Sri Lankan!

I was walking once in New York with my Singaporean co-pilot, and here comes a familiar face; he looks Sri Lankan. With a broad smile, he asks, “From Sri Lanka?”


“From where?”


Aiyo! I am from Panadura, no, so what are you doing here?”

He sounded like he owned New York. “You have a Green Card?” That was a pricey question. “No, just a short time,” I replied. “You are from Moratuwa, I had a friend there you know, Fernando.” I scratch my head; there are ten-thousand four-hundred and seventy-eight Fernandos in Moratuwa.

“You are Ok? Prashnayak naane

hat part sans English must have been to keep my companion out of the private conversation.

“If you have a problem, tell me.” That was straight Sri Lankan.

“Moratuwa no! We are neighbours, no! Come! We will have some coffee.”

That is exactly how it happened. He, the Singaporean and I sat in a wayside Big Apple Turkish joint and had cakes and coffee. He told me of people he knew in Moratuwa (Fernando included) and I asked him about people I knew in Panadura, and we did discover some common friends. The bill came and Panadura jumped and paid. We exchanged telephone numbers (pre-email era) said good-bye and walked our separate ways.

“Captain your friend, nice man,” says my co-pilot.

“No, he is not my friend; I have never seen him in my life.”

“But he paid for us, too,” says my companion. “How come?”

There were no words to explain to a Singaporean why a stranger bought us cakes and coffee simply because he and I were born in the same country. No, that’s something my Chinese friend would never understand.

I have met so many in my years of vagabonding, like the cake and coffee man who owned New York or Halmilla and Burutha who rode on my flight deck. Off and on there have been a thief or two who spoke pure nonsense in capitals. That is acceptable as the instant excellent camaraderie of Sri Lankans I have met and enjoyed far outweighs the few that went sour.

Then there was an Old Ben with a gospelic name, Kotahena-bred, now living in Connecticut. We met in Pretoria whilst watching Sri Lanka play Shaun Pollock’s men in a one-day battle. The Ben and I sat together and cheered, two against South Africa, friends after that. We lost the match, but the whole stadium heard our cheers that resounded in typical Sri Lankan fashion. Thank God by then the country was Mandelised and dark skins like us had permission to shout.

In life, anything is not completely won, nor is it lost. It is the count that matters, especially in people we come to know. As for me, I won most and lost a few, and with pride I say it was wonderful to fly aeroplanes and walk the world as a Sri Lankan. The friends I have made are many, all over the world, and they have come to my life for no other reason than us being simply Sri Lankan and left me richer for having known them.

This is our motherland and its people, kind in heart and endowed with laudable human qualities. Irrespective of what ethnic roots they sprung from or which God they worshipped; the core was Sri Lankan. Of course, there are those spitting venom and blowing fire from their nostrils labelling people and separating their own countrymen. If the truth be trumpeted, it is mostly fanned by political ambitions.

Where is the end to all this? Is it near or far or nowhere?

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