BY DR. DAYANATH JAYASURIYA P. C.

According to a recent global survey by D. Petruzzi released on 3 September 2024, “the cosmetics industry shows no signs of stopping: as self-care and wellness become more important to consumers worldwide, this market keeps on thriving. Despite a small setback in 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the global cosmetics market has experienced an almost incessant growth since 2004 and was forecast to generate revenues amounting to nearly 129 billion U.S. dollars by the year 2028.”

Skincare is predicted to stay number one. The production of cosmetics and beauty products is controlled by several multi-national corporations – L’Oréal, Unilever, Procter & Gamble Co., The Estee Lauder Companies, Shiseido Company, and Beiersdorf to name a few. As of 2023, the French cosmetics company L’Oréal was the leading beauty manufacturer in the world, generating revenues of over 44 billion U.S. dollars that year. The company owns the leading personal care brand worldwide, L’Oréal Paris, valued at nearly 48 billion U.S. dollars in 2023.

The cosmetics industry has benefited from the increasing popularity of social media channels such as Instagram and YouTube. These platforms are not only highly influential amongst certain demographic groups but also create a demand for beauty products and help fill the gap between cosmetics brands and consumers. In March 2024, Sandra Cires Art was the most subscribed beauty content creator on the video platform YouTube with about 16.5 million subscribers to her channel.

The cosmetics industry is not only heavily influenced or supported by social media and e-commerce, but it can now rely on new technological products, forming part of the beauty tech market, developed to improve the consumer’s journey and experience. (https://www.statista.com/topics/3137/cosmetics-industry).

A few Sundays ago, whilst my family members were busy doing their weekly grocery shopping, I took the trouble of counting the number of different cosmetic and beauty care products on sale in a medium size local supermarket. It had a staggering 1,200 plus products. I examined most products to find whether the product had been approved by the National Medicines Regulatory Authority or by the Commissioner of Ayurveda. There was merely a handful that seemed to have the stamp of approval of the latter.

Both family doctors as well as dermatologists tend to see more patients with skin diseases attributed to the use of cosmetics. In the USA, it is estimated that 85 million visit a dermatologist every year, with a significant increase in skin cancer.

Sri Lanka’s Cosmetics, Devices and Drugs Act was enacted in 1980. It was modeled on the Canadian legislation and provided a sound basis for the regulation on drugs, devices and cosmetics. In the case of cosmetics, besides regulating ingredients and their quality and the final product, there were provisions to deal with counterfeit goods, adulteration and misleading claims that compromised user safety. Several skin whitening creams containing dangerous levels of mercury were banned but without effective enforcement some of these brands are available.

Instead of making amendments to the Cosmetics, Devices and Drugs Act, an attempt was made in 2005 to repeal it and introduce a new National Medicines Regulatory Authority (NMRA) Act. It is a badly drafted piece of legislation. Even though it was to cover cosmetics, for a bizarre reason the regulation of cosmetics was left out. The reason given was the World Health Organization does not favour the regulation of cosmetics along with drugs and devices. This is a totally fabricated excuse. It is speculated that an official member of a major firm that was a leading cosmetics importer had influenced the decision to jettison the provisions on cosmetics. Even though nine long years have since lapsed, the country still lacks a comprehensive regulatory framework on cosmetics.

A new regulatory issue has also arisen. Persons alleged to have engaged in money laundering offences, often offer as an excuse that the funds represent the profits of the sale of cosmetics. If large quantities have been purchased by distributors and paid for by them, law enforcement authorities can track the details of the purchases and the transfer of profits, including the payment of VAT and income tax.

The absence of legislation cannot be used as a means to account for funds from unauthorized activities. The problem is compounded by the Ayurvedic Commissioner granting licences for creams and balms claiming to contain herbal products, without an exhaustive check as to whether banned ingredients are contained in the product. Moreover, cosmetics continue to be imported with lax controls.

There is an unfounded assumption that having a ‘white skin’ will enable students planning to go abroad for studies to easily get jobs. They have become an easy target for the illegal sale of whitening products, without realizing the heath hazards.

An urgent priority is to ensure that the country takes a fresh review of the NMRA and include the regulation of cosmetics in it and train sufficient enforcement staff to ensure that only licensed cosmetics are sold to the public.

My personalised approach has been my key to creating great looks for my clients said Ramzi Rahaman, the face and visionary behind Ramzi Salon. With a career that spans decades Ramzi shares his experience in the beauty industry in an interview with the “Sunday Island”.He has had many noteworthy moments, not only styling the country’s first woman President Chandrika Kumaratunga, but has coiffered the manes of many celebrities, models and many remarkable men and women. Along his career, Ramzi has learnt about building and reinventing a business in the beauty industry that has undergone its own makeovers many times over . His journey in the beauty industry is nothing short of inspiring. His work has been heavily influenced by his training overseas,revolutionising the way hair was cut and styled.

Could you share a brief overview of your journey?

My natural talent swayed for art ad oil painting, but I thought otherwise and my beauty career journey began in my childhood home. I was fascinated by my grandmother’s long hair which I use to style became my first muse – a creative influence to take on hair dressing seriously. From a young age ,I was captivated by the world of hair and beauty which ultimately led me to pursue hairdressing

However as time dictated then, in the early 1970s Ceylon hair industry was dominated by females. Nevertheless, dauntlessly and relentlessly I pursued my goal to master the craft and I was enlisted as the only male student in a class dominated by females where I topped the batch with excellence. Later I went to London learnt the skills of hairdressing, joined Vidal Sassoon, a premier hairdressing institution in the UK to keep abreast with the latest trends as required to be a top stylist. I realised I had this ability to make people feel really good. From there I started assisting backstage at fashion shows and creating complex eye catching looks for models and photoshoots.

Your challenges?

The biggest challenge is to keep positive. I think it’s very important to always stay positive to yo your clientale , staff and everyone who’s following you. When I create something new , I always want to re-nvent myself and be different as the last time.Starting out, I was mainly cutting and styling now I’m Jack of all trades . But there were good and bad times at the beginning. My humble beginnings were acknowledged by my clients and when I launched my first salon namely ‘Coiffeur’ in a rented room this marked the beginning of a legacy. Later I expanded the business and named it as Ramzi’s salon which is still popular among clients That time imports were restricted, even the basic needs were lacking due to our austere period in the country. I lived through it all and built my clientle and adapted to the changing trends, and soon catapulted to fame. However I always put my own spin on trends combining my own personal style which my clients adore even today

Do you think social media helps the growth of your business? How important is social media to you?

Yes with changing beauty scene, social media is necessary. New trends, new products, new techniques coping with all these, social media plays an important part in the hairdressing. Advertising, facedown, Instigram, twitter and other media of communication attract new clients and increase awareness, its a strategy to improve the business of running the industry. These days with the internet, it’s easier to book a job,it’s not hard to break into the world of hair. We didn’t have phones back then; my work had to be amazing to keep my clients.On the flip side now, it’s great because there are more opportunities and ways to showcase my professionalism . The world has become more globalised so products are more accessible and easier to find for hairdressers.

Who are your clientle?

I have an impressive clientale list who includes former, President Mrs. Chandrika Bandaranaike, Shiranti Rajapakse, high profile figur, host of beauty queens, models, and many others.

What is your key to success?

Ramzi

My inherent skill and talent and my rigorous training under qualified professional make me to maintain the quality of my salon.I am a perfectionist to the core and I take my work seriously. I ensure that my salon adheres to highest standards, refusing to compromise on quality products even when they are expensive. Known for its unwavering commitment to excellence, my dedication to consistency have always distinguished my salon as “cut above”in the competitive world of hairdressing My motto is work , develop confidence in my technique and keep my clients happy.

To me success means a happy and contented clientle. I am happy when generations patronise my salon. Hair is my passion and I always have, so for me my most satisfying work is when I transform someone’s dry lifeless hair to a sumptuous lust hair . As a result my salon stands tall as a testament to professionalism, creativity and commitment to excellence

Can you describe Ramzi brides?

I have always been dressing brides for many years and I love to play with new ideas and styles His signature style is being timeless,modern chic and elegantkeeping up with new trends. I’d usually advice my brides to go simple on the rest of the details so nothing gets in the way of stealing the spotlight of the bride. However every bride has different characteristics and taste. its all about the bride want to look and feel. I believe less is more when dressing a bride The bride should be confident when she walks down the isle For me as a makeup artist my vision is to make a bride glow with a natural look, should always reflect her personality, feel beautiful on this special day.

Ramzi name synonymous with hair and beauty with his popular client Chandrika

What is your recipe for success?

Having a passion for my trade and love doing what I do.

To me success means a happy and contented clientle. Repeated clientale I believe is the secret for my success,when generations patronise my salon is also my pride. Hair is my passion, I always have, so for me my most satisfying work is when I transform someone’s dry lifeless hair to a sumptuous lust hair to a lustrous state.

What is the most rewarding part of your job?

The most rewarding part is when my clients feel loved and that they made the best decision booking me. I am always about giving my clientale a beautiful experience, as well as making them look gorgeous all the time.I love to create unforgettable moments with thier persona

You are in a business that demands your time and energy. How do you unwind at the end of the day?

My salon is a name synonymous with highest standards of hairstyliung in Sri Lanka

My unique attributes are best represented by my own work schedules. I have a staff of hair stylists and beauticians who are masters of in all facets of their trade. As a someone deeply entrenched in the world of beauty and hair, and also specialising in bridal make up services I plan out my day’s programmes well As a well organised beautician, I don’t fight against time. everything is well planned and well according to schedule Listening to music, watching movies, socialising with friends are my leisure time activities.

Do you still love what you do?

Most certainly. I would be lost if I have to retire. Expertise, creativity and passion are key factors that truly elevate my experience in life.

What are some of the biggest achievements throughout your journey?

I am the winner of many awards locally and internationally. To mention a few I won the Provincial “The Sri Lanka Entrepreneur” Award, Official Beautician for Sri Lankan Airlines for many years for ground handling staff and cabin crew, I still do grooming checks for airport aviation staff,

What are business principles that are of value to you?

Discipline, honesty, and punctuality, My motto is be original and plan my work well ahead of time.He believes strongly that it is our professional talents that draws you ,but it’s thw way we treat at our salon that will make it impossible to leave.

A Felicitation ceremony hosted by Marie-Noëlle Duris, Chargé d’affaires a.i, was  held to honour  to welcome athletes, para-athletes, coaches, presidents and members of the Olympic and Paralympic Committees who returned from Paris after participating in Olympics held in France.

Congratulations to athlete Samitha Dulan Kodithuwakku for winning the Silver medal in the Men’s F64 Javelin Finals at the Paris Paralympics Games.

Asanka de Mel with some invitees

Pix by Thushara Attapathu