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A monument to all things Dutch

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By RANDIMA ATTYGALLE

The Dutch Museum in Colombo, located at Prince Street, Pettah, was closed for several years for renovation. It was reopened to the public early this month. The conservation project which is nearing completion hopes to restore this archaeologically protected monument to its former glory.

More than a century since the Portuguese fortified Colombo, the city was lost to the Dutch in 1656 who remodeled the Portuguese fort. A new fortress or a citadel ringed by nine bastions, ramparts and deep moats replaced the original Portuguese-built Colombo Fort. The fort or kotuwa in the local language was known as the casteel or the castle by the Dutch. High-ranking Dutch officials lived in the casteel. Outside the Fort the surroundings are today known as Pitakotuwa or Pettah (an adaptation of the Tamil pettai meaning ‘a suburb outside a fort’). It was known as Oude Stad in the Dutch days. The Dutch, planned the town on a grid pattern with five principal streets- now known as Bankshall Street, Main Street, Keyzer Street, Prince Street and Maliban Street.

Tribute to a prince

Running parallel to Pettah’s Main Street is Prince Street – what the Dutch called the ‘Prins Straat’, named in honour of the new-born son of Kandyan King Rajasinha II. Far from its royal splendour of the past, marked by villas with lush gardens and streets shaded with green trees, Prince Street is consumed by a commercial tide today. Cutting across Malwatta Rd. – Pettah’s flea-market – lies Prince Street. (The smartest way to reach it is either on foot or in a tuk-tuk.) The street is dominated by opticians, sidewalks overrun by vendors peddling from achcharu to counterfeit branded clothing and naatamis (porters) whose calls ring in the air. It is impossible for a visitor to visualize a colonial yesteryear here. You will suddenly come upon an imposing mansion with eight colonnades of striking height looking completely out of place in these surroundings.

Monument to Dutch architecture

The only vestige of the Dutch legacy in these otherwise changed surroundings, is the Dutch Museum (as it is today). It was said to be the largest building in Pettah, as documented in ‘Streets and Buildings in the Pettah,’ published in the Ceylon Literary Register of September 2, 1887.

The villa which is also believed to have been the residence of Governor Thomas van Rhee who held office from 1692 to 1697 is a living monument to Dutch colonial architecture. Some historical sources also document the place to have been the one-time residence of Count Carl van Ranzow of Colombo.

Administered by the Department of National Museums, the Dutch Museum with its seven galleries, offers the visitor a window to Sri Lanka’s Dutch heritage. From the arrival and establishment of the Dutch to their final place of resting, the museum exhibits their way of life. The galleries are dedicated to Dutch furniture and utensils, the network of forts erected across the island, artillery and jewellery, VOC coins and tombstones portray the political and socio-economic status of the maritime provinces of Sri Lanka under the Dutch and mirror diverse aspects of life and culture of the day. With its high roofs and a gallery of columns, typical of Dutch architecture, the building had been used for different purposes over the centuries before it was finally declared a museum in 1982. It was inaugurated by President J.R. Jayewardene on July 10, 1982.

A governor’s residence, seminary and more

From Governor’s residence, it became a seminary, an orphanage or weeskamer, hospital, army barrack, police training school and finally a post office in 1932. The Latin inscription above its entrance which is still visible quotes Psalm 127: ‘Except the Lord build the house, they labour in vain that build it.’ Below this inscription is the date ‘1780’ which is believed to be the year in which the seminary was established. Dr. Jurrien van Goor in his article ‘The Rectors of the Dutch Seminary at Prince Street Colombo’ (published in the Netherlands Alumni Association of Sri Lanka (NAAL) Journal Special Edition of 1982) writes:

‘Not many buildings can be found in Sri Lanka or elsewhere in the former Dutch colonies to equal its very fine and imposing row of front columns of such height. During its long history the building was used for many purposes: but the reason for which it was built makes it all the more exceptional. Nowhere else in the Dutch colonies were founded during the eighteenth century seminaries or schools in which local youth received a secondary training. The few endeavours made at Batavia did not last long. Only Sri Lanka can boast of an uninterrupted educational record of such long duration under the Dutch’. The writer goes onto say that even the curricular of the early English schools followed the pattern of the Dutch seminary.

Dutch cot

A museum takes shape

The building functioned as the Pettah Post Office from 1932 until 1971 when one of the sidewalls collapsed during the monsoon rains and made it uninhabitable. The question then arose on what to do with the premises. The suggestion to demolish it was opposed by the Royal Asiatic Society and the Dutch Burgher Union- the latter then led by Dr. R.L. Brohier. In his book Changing Face of Colombo, Brohier notes that ‘there is today no better example of the more imposing and typical building the Dutch erected in the Oude Stad than this monument with its high solid and substantial pillars of brick and plaster supporting the façade.’

The writer (The first Ceylonese to become Deputy Surveyor General and a noted authority on the country’s ancient irrigation works) makes an interesting observation that his great grandfather, Peter Brohier, had lived in a villa on the Prince Street (which he had purchased in 1834) opposite the Orphan Chamber. It was here too that his son (writer’s grandfather) was born two years later. The villa which Brohier refers to opposite the present Dutch Museum is replaced by a row of opticians’ premises teeming with crowds.

In 1973, a committee was established with representatives drawn from multiple state and international agencies to restore the building and establish a museum covering the Dutch colonial period. The restoration was funded by the Netherlands-Sri Lanka Foundation, founded by the late Dr. Evert Jongens. The restoration of the building commenced in 1977 and was completed in 1981 under the supervision of architect Ashley de Vos. The plan for the museum galleries was drafted and executed with the help of the Amsterdam Historical Museum.

Gallery depicting to bacco boxes and jewellery from the Dutch era

Only green patch in Pettah

Prof K.D. Paranavitana, eminent historian and an authority on the Dutch rule in Sri Lanka who served the restoration project as a consultant, recollects procuring several pieces of Dutch furniture for the museum with the assistance of NAAL (Netherlands Alumni Association of Lanka). Among them is a cot which is one of the highlights among the collection in the ‘Bedroom Gallery’. Prof. Paranavitana who was then an archivist at the President’s Office was also responsible for the preparation of narratives for the exhibits.

Foreign visitors to the museum

“The Dutch Museum in Colombo was then a popular venue for the functions of the Dutch Embassy in Colombo and NAAL. I even had a book launch of mine in the beautiful court yard or the meda midula. This is probably the only green patch remaining in Pettah today which was once a fashionable quarter of Colombo shaded by lots of trees.”

Prof K. D. Paranavitana

The court yard with the unmistakable ‘Dutch-well’ which was once adorned with numerous flowering plants and foliage is being landscaped right now. The well too is under conservation. The massive cinnamon tree and the nutmeg tree found in the garden are symbolic of the spice trade which first brought the Dutch here. The side verandahs which open to the courtyard consist of several rooms that had originally served as servants’ quarters and storerooms. Today they are converted into administrative spaces. One of the rooms called ‘Hall of Death’ houses nearly 50 tombstones which were retrieved from a side alley of Prince Street when the Dutch cemetery of Pettah gave way to expanding trade centres.

Laborious conservation

The museum is home to nearly 300 exhibits today. A sizable number has already been conserved and others are still being done says the Dutch Museum keeper Thanuka Kumarasiri. The garden which is the highlight of the place too is to be restored to its former glory soon he assures. “We reopened the museum only in early July this year but we have a considerable number of visitors including foreigners. Once the place is fully done, we hope to attract more crowds,” he says adding that an admission ticket is still issued at a very nominal rate.

The conservation of the Dutch Museum in Colombo was among one of the most challenging tasks before her as the Director General of the Department of Museums says Sanuja Kasthuriarachchi. “The location of the museum in one of the most congested parts of Colombo, the COVID threat and the political and economic unrest in the country in the past few years, made the project an uphill task. Despite all challenges, this archaeologically protected monument which is more than three centuries old, that struggled to survive amidst unplanned structures surrounding it is once again open to the public.”

The conservation project is supported by the State Engineering Corporation and the Department of Archaeology. “We have now reached the final stages of the project and we hope to restore this iconic building into a traditional Dutch home where visitors can step into a tranquil space in the busy commercial hub of Colombo and relive a bygone era,” says Kasthuriarachchi. She invites the public to donate any memorabilia from the Dutch era to the museum which stands as an enduring monument to the Dutch legacy.

Dutch Museum at Prince Street Pettah is open from Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays and public holidays.

(Pic credit: Randima Attygalle, Department of National Museums & Prof. K.D. Paranavitana)



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Enduring charm of June weddings

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In white,every bride becomes a vision of timess elegance

June has long been celebrated as the month of brides, a season synonymous with romance, elegance and new beginnings . In Sri Lanka, where wedding are cherished as family occasions, every bride dreams of looking her absolute best on her special day. Few names in Sri Lanka are so closely associated with bridal beauty as Ramani Fernando, a pionear of Sri Lanka’s hair and beauty industry whose expertise has transferred countless brides over the decades. She has become a trusted authority on bridal styling, beauty trends and the act of creating timeless wedding looks. In this interview, Ramani Fernando shares her insights on the enduring appeal of June weddings, evolving bridal trends, and how today’s bride can achieve confidence and elegance on their big day!

(Q) Why is June traditionally known as the month of brides?

(A) June has long been associated with weddings because, historically, it was considered a month of prosperity, happiness, and new beginnings. In many cultures, it was believed to be an auspicious time to start married life. Over the years, this tradition has continued, making June one of the most popular wedding months around the world.

(Q) What makes June bridal unique in Sri Lanka?

(A) In Sri Lanka, June weddings often combine elegance with the beauty of the season. Brides tend to choose softer, lighter looks that complement the warm weather, while still embracing our rich cultural traditions. It’s a beautiful balance of timeless bridal glamour and modern sophistication.

(Q) What are the biggest beauty trends you are seeing this year in terms of dressing, hair, and makeup?

(A) This year, we are seeing a move towards effortless elegance. Brides are choosing natural, radiant makeup that enhances their features rather than masking them. Hairstyles are softer, with textured buns, romantic waves, and elegant ponytails. In fashion, classic silhouettes with modern details such as delicate embellishments and clean lines are very popular.

Radiating grace, beauty and joy

(Q) How have bridal hairstyles and makeup evolved over the years?

(A) When I first started, bridal looks were much more structured, with heavier makeup and very intricate hairstyles. Today, brides prefer a more natural and personalised approach. The focus is on enhancing individuality while ensuring the bride looks timeless, both in person and in photographs.

(Q) How can brides balance tradition and contemporary beauty trends?

Radiant bride in yellow

Where elegance meets expertise – Ramani’s signature touch for modern brides

(A) The key is to stay true to who you are. I always encourage brides to respect traditions that are meaningful to them while incorporating modern elements that reflect their personality. A bride should feel authentic, comfortable, and confident rather than simply following trends.

(Q) Beyond makeup and hair, what helps a bride feel confident on her wedding day?

(A) Confidence comes from preparation, self-belief, and being surrounded by people who genuinely support you. When a bride feels comfortable in her own skin, is well-rested, and knows she is loved, that confidence shines through far more than any beauty treatment ever could.

(Q) How has the bridal industry changed since you first started your career?

(A) The bridal industry has evolved tremendously. Brides today have access to global inspiration, through social media, and are much more informed about beauty, fashion, and styling. There is also greater emphasis on personalisation, allowing every bride to create a look that reflects their unique story and personality.

(Q) What has been your most memorable bridal transformation?

(A) It is difficult to choose just one because every bride is special. However, the most memorable transformations are often those where a bride sees herself in the mirror and becomes emotional—not because she looks different, but because she feels like the very best version of herself. Those moments stay with me forever.

(Q) What continues to inspire you after decades in the bridal industry?

(A) The joy of being part of one of the most important days in a person’s life continues to inspire me. Every bride brings a new story, a new dream, and a new vision. Seeing the happiness, confidence, and excitement on a bride’s face is what keeps my passion alive even after all these years.

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Silver jubilee of grace and elegance

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From Moscow to Colombo

The Russian Classical Ballet concert “Once upon a silver stage, conducted by the Russian School of Ballet and dancing, will be presented on June 27, 2026,at Sri Lanka’s iconic Nelum Pokuna Mahinda Rajapakse theatre Colombo with grandeur, This significant event will provide students with the opportunity to showcase their talent to thier proud parents. The School, which started with four little girls wanting to be prima ballerinas, celebrates its success and achievements of 25 years in its Silver Jubilee celebrations at this remarkable event.

(Q) What can audiences expect from this year’s ballet concert?

(A)We are expecting Russian Classical Ballet enthusiasts, parents, Diplomats and Ballet critics.

(Q) How does this performances differ from previous productions?

(A) The Russian School is celebrating its 25th anniversary in Sri Lanka, and the teachers have prepared a mesmerizing performance of Russian Classical Ballet to celebrate and to make the occasion memorable

(Q) What are the highlights of the programme?

(A) Over 700 students from age 4 to 45 years will be on one stage showcasing their talents on Russian Classical Ballet who are currently taking lessons at The Russian School of Ballet & Dancing

(Q) What challenges were involved in bringing such a large scale production to the stage?

(A) Training such a large number of students with variation of age is a challenge. We also face a challenge when it comes to accommodate the students in a Theatre in Sri Lanka. We have to perform the same show twice to make amends for that challenge

(Q) The school is celebrating a significant milestones. How has the journey evolved are the past 25 years?

(A) It is a wonderful progress, for a school which initiated with four little girls and standing tall and strong with 700 students maintaining it’s standards by the management, teacher, students and parents support.

(Q) How has interest in ballet grown among Sri Lankan students over the years?

(A) It’s an amazing interest. We are conducting classes from Monday to Saturday, weekdays from 2.00pm to 6.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 6.00pm, with 12 teachers working through the week. We also maintain a waiting list with at least 500 students annually. We have a huge demand for the art of Russian Classical Ballet in Sri Lanka, not only in Colombo, but outstation, too. We can only accommodate the students for Russian Classical Examination annually with the Vaganova syllabus

(Q) What role does Russian ballet training play in shaping young dancers?

(A) The training does not only shape them in dancing and techniques. They also shape the qualities, discipline and talentsof students from their childhood, especially for little girls to become ladies.

(Q) What makes Russian classical ballet unique compared to other dance forms?

(A) Russian Classical Ballet is an old form of dance and which is highly athletic, expressive and strictly disciplined style of Ballet that originated in the 18th century in Russia which is also the most prominent dance form in the world today. We are privileged to be able to learn and share the art form in Sri Lanka through the Cultural Section of The Embassy of Russian Federation in Sri Lanka to the Ballet lovers.

(Q) How does the school contribute to cultural ties between Sri Lanka and Russia?

(A) The school constantly shares it’s knowledge with Sri Lankan ballet lovers and enthusiastic though examinations, concerts, dance recitals, performances and universities. The Russian Cultural Centre in Colombo has brought down Bolshoi Dancers, Russian Classical Ballets. Younust Dancers. Classical Music Performers many times to Sri Lanka since late the1990s.

Over 1500 students annually examined for Russian Classical Ballet graded exams in Sril Lanka under the guidance of Dr Oxana Karnovich.

(Q) How does ballet help bridge cultural boundaries?

(A) Ballet is an universal art which speaks its own language. Ballet connect different cultures, facilitate cross-cultural communication, and foster mutual understanding.

(Q) Are there plans for international collaborations or performances abroad?

(A) Yes. We are already collaborated with the National Ballet Academy in Moscow under the patronage of Dr Oxana Karnovich -Oxana Karnovich of the Moscow State Academy of Choreography. Holding the position of Senior Lecturer at the Department of Choreography and the History of Ballet at the Moscow State Academy of Choreography, Dr Oxana Karnovich chaired the examinations, while imparting invaluable knowledge and expertise to aspiring dancers as well as our brilliant and growing staff of teachers. Oxana is also an Associate Professor at the Department of Vocal Art and Opera in the Moscow State Institute of Music. With a Ph.D. in Art History and Criticism, her extensive academic background enriches the knowledge and expertise of both our students and teachers, highlighting the dedication to preserve the artistic heritage of ballet.

By Zanita Careem

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Sando: The missing warrior tusker of Ruhuna

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In the vast wilderness of southern Sri Lanka, where ancient forests merge with open grasslands and seasonal waterholes sustain an abundance of wildlife, few elephants have captured the imagination of nature lovers quite like Sando (T011).

A giant among giants, Sando is not merely another tusker roaming the forests of Ruhuna. He is a symbol of strength, dominance, resilience and mystery.

For years, his annual movements through the forests, bordering the Yala National Park, were eagerly anticipated by wildlife enthusiasts, safari operators, photographers and conservationists.

His arrival often signalled the beginning of a period of heightened excitement, within the park, where visitors hoped to catch a glimpse of one of Sri Lanka’s most iconic wild elephants.

Today, however, Sando’s whereabouts remain unknown.

His disappearance for nearly three years has sparked concern, speculation and heartbreak among those who have followed his remarkable journey through the wilderness. Yet despite the uncertainty, many refuse to abandon hope that the giant tusker still roams the forests of Ruhuna, hidden deep within landscapes rarely visited by humans.

According to wildlife enthusiast Chamdika Lakmal of Wild Tuskers of Sri Lanka, Sando represents one of the finest examples of Sri Lanka’s remaining wild tuskers.

He told The SundayIsland: “Sando is unlike most elephants we see in the southern region. His physical appearance, stature and confidence make him truly exceptional. Whenever he appeared, people knew they were witnessing a remarkable animal.’’

Sando primarily inhabited Blocks 3 and 4 of the Ruhuna National Park. During his annual musth period, usually between January and March, he undertook a well-documented journey through Buttala, Gonagan Ara and Galge before entering Yala National Park’s Block 1. These movements became familiar to many wildlife observers who followed his seasonal travels, year after year.

The annual migration was more than just a movement from one location to another. It was a dramatic display of nature’s hierarchy. Musth is a period of heightened testosterone levels in bull elephants, making them more aggressive and dominant. During this time, Sando transformed into an even more imposing figure.

Estimated to be between 35 and 45 years old, he was widely regarded as one of the most powerful bulls in the region. His immense size and fearless demeanour ensured that few rivals challenged him directly.

One of the most famous episodes, associated with Sando, involved a confrontation with Gamunu, another legendary tusker of Yala. The encounter reportedly resulted in Gamunu losing one of his tusks, further cementing Sando’s reputation as a dominant force among Sri Lanka’s wild elephants.

For many observers, however, Sando’s appeal extended beyond his strength.

Unlike the typical “Ruhunu Getaw” elephants commonly seen in the southern dry zone, Sando possessed a distinctive physique. His body proportions and overall appearance gave him the look of an ancient war elephant, the kind depicted in historical chronicles carrying kings and warriors into battle.

“Whenever you looked at him, you felt as if you were seeing a living relic from Sri Lanka’s ancient past,” Chamidika said. “He had an extraordinary presence that photographs could never fully capture.”

Sri Lanka’s tuskers are themselves a rarity. Wildlife experts estimate that only a small percentage of the country’s male elephants possess tusks. This makes animals such as Sando particularly valuable from both ecological and cultural perspectives.

Historically, tuskers occupied a special place in Sri Lankan society. They featured prominently in religious ceremonies, royal processions and folklore. Even today, they remain powerful symbols of national heritage.

Their rarity, however, also makes them vulnerable.

Throughout Sri Lanka, wild elephants continue to face numerous threats, including habitat fragmentation, human-elephant conflict, poaching and accidental deaths. Expanding agricultural activities, infrastructure development and increasing human settlements have placed growing pressure on elephant habitats.

For tuskers, the risks can be even greater.

Their ivory makes them attractive targets for poachers, despite strict wildlife protection laws. Across Asia and Africa, ivory poaching has devastated elephant populations, and conservationists remain vigilant against similar threats in Sri Lanka.

These concerns intensified earlier this year when wildlife officials discovered the carcass of a tusker in the Kotiyagala area. The animal’s tusks had reportedly been removed by poachers. News of the discovery spread rapidly among wildlife enthusiasts.

Because Sando had not been seen for such a long period, many feared the worst. Could the carcass belong to the missing giant?

The possibility sent shockwaves through Sri Lanka’s wildlife community.

For many photographers and safari operators who had spent years documenting Sando, the prospect was devastating. Social media platforms were flooded with expressions of concern and calls for further investigations.

Yet the mystery deepened.

A year earlier, skeletal remains, believed to belong to a tusker, had also been discovered near Buttala. Once again, fears emerged that Sando’s fate had finally been uncovered.

However, officials from the Department of Wildlife Conservation later determined that the skull was significantly smaller than what would be expected from an elephant of Sando’s size. The remains, therefore, could not be conclusively linked to the missing tusker.

For conservationists, this finding offered a glimmer of hope.

Despite the absence of confirmed sightings, there have been occasional reports from remote sections of Yala and surrounding forests describing a large tusker bearing a striking resemblance to Sando. None of these observations have been verified, but they continue to fuel optimism among wildlife enthusiasts.

According to Chamidika, history provides reasons to remain hopeful.

“There have been several instances where dominant bulls disappeared from their known ranges for many years before returning unexpectedly. Until there is definitive evidence, we should not assume the worst.”

Indeed, wildlife records contain numerous examples of mature bulls vanishing from familiar territories only to reappear years later.

Such behaviour may be linked to changes in habitat use, competition, food availability or breeding opportunities. Elephants are highly intelligent and adaptable animals capable of travelling vast distances through landscapes that remain inaccessible to people.

As August approaches, anticipation once again builds among those who know Sando’s traditional routes. Reports from Athiliwewa, Pelwatta, Gonagan Ara and Buttala will be monitored closely for any sign of the missing giant.

For now, Sando’s story remains one of Sri Lanka’s most compelling wildlife mysteries.

His disappearance has highlighted not only the challenges facing elephant conservation but also the deep emotional connection many Sri Lankans share with their wildlife.

In an era when biodiversity is under increasing pressure, the fate of a single tusker has become symbolic of a much larger struggle to protect the nation’s natural heritage.

Whether Sando eventually emerges from the forests of Ruhuna or remains forever a mystery, his legacy is already secure. He represents the wild spirit of Sri Lanka’s elephants—powerful, resilient and endlessly captivating.

Until definitive evidence proves otherwise, conservationists, safari guides, photographers and elephant lovers across the country will continue to hope that somewhere in the vast wilderness of the south, the warrior tusker of Ruhuna still walks unseen, carrying with him one of the greatest untold stories of Sri Lanka’s wild places.

By Ifham Nizam

 

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