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Visit to Mao’s tomb, Chinese cuisine and the Great Wall

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One of the earliest press delegations to China led by Esmond Wickremesinghe and including Amunugama, SLBC Chairman Eamon Kariyakarawana, then Virakesari publisher MG Wenceslaus, WJ Fernando of the Sun group of newspapers and Sisira Kumara Manikarachchi photographed in China

Excerpted from volume two of Sarath Amunugama’s autobiography

Accordingly our delegation should travel and see the damage caused by the Gang. Shanghai was the headquarters of the Gang from where they tried to get hold of the centres of power. Hangchow was an equally bad place. Foreign guests could not be taken there because of the fighting, but now things had changed, and we could visit the city.

After the meeting Deng spoke individually to members of our delegation and walked with them to the foyer to see them off. It was a fantastic, once in a lifetime experience with a heroine of the great Chinese revolution.

A Visit to Mao’s Memorial

A cold wind blows across Beijing. Large crowds line up four abreast from early morning. Most are young people. There are also groups of party veterans, professionals and a sprinkling of PLA and Navy personnel. The memorial is built on the eastern approach to the Tien An Men [Gate of Heavenly Peace]. Though scheduled to be built in eight months the workers completed in six. It faces a vast ‘Red Square’ which frames the Great Hall of the People, many administrative buildings and the ‘Heaven’s Gate’ built in traditional style from which Mao proclaimed the establishment of the People’s Republic of China [PRC] in 1949.

As the line of visitors reach the steps they react hurriedly-buttoning up tunics, straightening their coats, combing their hair and taking off their caps, all as marks of respect. We slowly climb up the steps and enter a large hall to face a lifelike white marble statue of Mao seated. Behind the statue is a gigantic mural depicting the rivers and mountains of China done in the traditional style of painting. We then enter the main hall where Mao’s catafalque is placed. It is in a glass box. Mao’s body is covered with a red flag with the hammer and sickle- the symbol of the Communist Party uppermost. The face is of an old man badly made up. But the sense of power and respect is overwhelming.

There is low moaning, crying and blowing of noses by the obviously moved visitors. Mao dominates the red square with its memorial to the martyrs, a statue of Mao with arm outstretched and a gigantic display picture of his beatific face alongside similar pictures. of Marx, Lenin and Stalin which gives a clear signal to the onlookers regarding the four giants of Marxist thought and practice.

Since China was still in the transitional phase between the `Gang of Four’ and the Deng Xiaoping reforms to a more liberal economy the current leader is Hua Gua Feng whose posters, much reduced in size, were also seen at the Tien An Men. Mao was glorified because Hua’s legitimacy was based on an alleged death bed wish of the ‘Great Helmsman’.

We know now that Hua was quietly sidelined later when the veterans under Deng took control of the party and country with the willing support of the generals of the Red Army. The adulation we saw on our tour of Mao was because only he could be claimed as the leader of all the factions that were just then jostling for power. Even Madame Chou En Lai, whose husband had been badly treated by Mao in his final days, could only tell us that Mao had been misled.

Later historical research has shown that Mao had indeed backed the Gang while at the same time tempering their more obvious outbursts against the veterans. Through all this drama behind the scenes, the common people, as we saw with our own eyes, were still in thrall to Mao as their deliverer from the evils of the ancient regime.

Chinese Cuisine

This being my first visit to China I was naturally interested to savor as well as learn about Chinese cuisine. The frequent visits for meals to Chinese restaurants in Colombo had only whetted my appetite to experience more of Chinese cooking. On our very first day in Beijing we were entertained to lunch at the famous Peking Duck restaurant. The first impression is of the elegance of the building and the politeness and etiquette of the serving staff.

As hors d’oeuvres we were served successively meat, fish and prawns which were to be dipped in different sauces. Then a duck was brought in and exhibited to the guests just as a French waiter would display an unopened bottle of expensive wine for approval. The guests approve and the waiter disappears to the kitchen with the unfortunate bird. Then the different dishes start coming. Each dish serves a different part of the duck – gullet, liver, breast and so on.

They have to be rolled in wafer thin wheat pancakes which have a thick brown sauce spread lightly over it. Experienced diners use their chopsticks to wrap the pancakes into a roll, dip it in different sauces on the table and expertly guide it to their mouths in one motion. Each mouthful gives a different taste because of the different meats on offer and the varying sauces available as dips. Some diners show off by twirling the pancake with their chopsticks before making a roll ready for dipping.

Chinese soups come at the end of the main meal. In traditional cooking all the leftovers from the dishes are put into a pot with boiling water. Nothing is wasted because that would be unthinkable in a society where famines and starvation were a common place. A delicious ‘pot-pourri’ is then served as a soup. In China the refusal to drink that soup with meats and greens bubbling to the top is considered to be an insult to the chef.

Finally sweets and fruits are served including home grown apples and tangerines. All the while eating is interrupted by toasts proposed by the hosts in local wines and fiery Mo-tai. On the way many of our delegates said politely that they missed the hot chillies they were used to eating at home. After that at all our meals a special dish of hot curry was provided and our hosts appeared to be shocked by our consumption of chillies which is not a general ingredient of northern Chinese cuisine. The exception were the chillie eaters of Szechuan province. Deng who became the supreme leader came from that province. He was fond of hot food and was given the nickname of ‘little hot chillie’ by his close friends.

On our last evening we were dined at one of the famous restaurants of Beijing. It offered delicious Szechuan food. The restaurant was located in the house of a warlord of the pre-revolution period, Yuang Shi Kai, who was for a short period the virtual ruler of China.The service is excellent and the waiters perform their duties with exquisite etiquette. There were many toasts and the officials who accompanied us were all agog as a high personage was to join us for dinner.

This senior official represented the secretariat of the party. He toasted us and delivered a speech which echoed the sentiments of Madame Chou when she entertained us at the Great Hall of the People. The following morning we left for Shanghai.

The Great Wall and Ming Tombs

No visit to China is complete without an outing to the Great Wall. It was built by the famous medieval ruler Chan Chi Wang who wanted to prevent the Mongol hordes who swept in from the north entering the heartlands of China. It is a stupendous undertaking and we were told that it was the only earthly feature that was visible from a satellite in the sky.

Emperor Chan was a heroic figure in Chinese history for many advances including safeguarding the unity of the country and reforming the alphabet. During the Cultural Revolution the Emperor had been criticized as a tyrant for having used forced labour to build the Wall. But, we were told, Mao had put a stop to that by proclaiming him to be a good ruler. But some of the polemicists continued even to criticize Mao in wall posters.

But all that had stopped with the end of the Gang of Four. The delegation then visited the Ming tombs where thousands of terra cotta life size statues have been unearthed by the new administration. It is a find of great archeological value and I was particularly impressed by the ‘avenue’ of clay lifelike figures of the Generals of the Emperor with their horses by their side. Only a stupendous civilization could produce artefacts on such a grand scale and sensibility.



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Combining local resources,traditional knowledge and science to build a food-secure Sri Lanka

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World Food Day 2026: Innovating today for a better food future

by Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara

What will be on the Sri Lankan dinner table ten years from now? Will our children be able to get nutritious food at a price their families can afford? Will farmers be able to grow enough despite changing weather and rising costs? And how much of the food we produce will actually reach the consumer, instead of being lost or wasted along the way?

These questions can’t wait. A farmer faces unpredictable weather. A family faces rising food costs. Fruit goes unsold after a good harvest. Some children do not get enough nutrition. The future of food is tied to the future of Sri Lanka itself.

World Food Day 2026 is a chance to look beyond the immediate problems and ask whether we can build a food system that feeds our people well, gives farmers better opportunities, protects the environment and makes better use of what we already have. The answer can be yes, but we will have to think differently.

We are not starting from zero. Sri Lanka has diverse crops, fisheries, traditional food knowledge, indigenous varieties, research institutions, universities and a young generation able to create new solutions. What we need is to bring these together and act. Producing more will not secure our food future on its own. It will depend on how intelligently we produce, process, preserve, distribute and consume food.

Making more of what we already have

Innovation does not always mean inventing something new. Often it means finding better uses for the resources we have.

Sri Lanka grows traditional rice varieties, kurakkan, green gram, cowpea, jackfruit, breadfruit, cassava, sweet potato, coconut and palmyrah. All of them have great potential for modern, nutritious, value-added foods. Jackfruit and breadfruit can be made into flour and other convenient products. Traditional rice varieties can go into new foods that suit changing consumer needs. Palmyrah, with its strong cultural heritage, can create new income through better processing, packaging, quality assurance and market development.

The aim is to connect our traditional food knowledge with modern consumer needs and technology, while keeping our food heritage.

Stop wasting the food we produce

Reducing food loss and waste should be a major priority. Seasonal fruits such as mango, banana, papaya and pineapple can be lost in large quantities when production exceeds demand or when storage, transport and processing facilities are inadequate. With suitable technology, these fruits can become dried products, pulps, powders, beverages and other shelf-stable foods.

Agricultural and fisheries by-products are resources too. They could be turned into food ingredients, animal feed, bio-based products and other useful materials, which would move us toward a more circular food economy.

Technology alone is not enough. We need stronger local processing facilities, cold storage, efficient transport, collection centres and market information systems, especially close to where food is produced. Cutting food loss raises the value of what our farmers and fishers already produce.

Nutrition and food safety come first

Food security means more than having enough food. People also need food that is safe and nutritious.

Sri Lanka can develop affordable, nutritious foods from local pulses, grains, vegetables, fruits and fish. Children and other vulnerable groups should get particular attention. Schoolchildren in particular deserve a focus: safe, nutritious, locally sourced products for school feeding programs would support child nutrition, local farmers and domestic food industries at the same time.

Food safety must stay at the centre of food innovation. Good hygiene, quality control, laboratory testing, traceability and appropriate food safety systems are what make new products safe as well as attractive and nutritious.

A food system that can cope with climate change

Climate change is already affecting agricultural production, water availability, crop yields and food prices. We need food systems that can handle changing conditions. That means climate-resilient crops, efficient water use, soil and water conservation, better storage and resource-efficient food processing.

Traditional knowledge matters here. Generations of Sri Lankan farmers have developed practices suited to local climates and ecosystems. Combining that experience with modern science can give us solutions that fit local conditions and are sustainable. Technology alone will not build the future of food. Science, experience and local knowledge together can.

Give young people a bigger role

Sri Lanka’s universities have an important part to play in shaping our food future. Young people should be encouraged to identify real problems in the food system and work on practical solutions in areas such as food waste, sustainable packaging, nutrition, food safety, modernising traditional foods and digital technologies.

A good research project should not always end as a research paper. Where appropriate, research should be supported to move on to products, technologies, enterprises and community solutions. That needs stronger partnerships between universities and industry, along with mentoring, research funding, business support and market connections. If young researchers and entrepreneurs can turn their ideas into viable food innovations, both consumers and producers will benefit.

A pathway designed for Sri Lanka

We do not need to copy food-system models from other countries. We can build a pathway that suits our own resources, culture and needs. It would bring together local resources, traditional knowledge, scientific research, appropriate technology and entrepreneurship, with farmers, fishers, universities, research institutions, food industries, entrepreneurs and policymakers working side by side.

The goal goes beyond selling raw materials. We need to create more value, reduce waste, improve nutrition, generate jobs and strengthen rural livelihoods. This matters especially for small and medium-scale food enterprises, which can drive local economic development when they get the right technical, financial and market support.

The choices we make today

The food future will not create itself. It will be shaped by what we grow, what we research, what we process, what we consume and what we choose not to waste.

So, the question for World Food Day 2026 is this: what can we do today so that every Sri Lankan has safe, nutritious, affordable and sustainable food tomorrow?

The answers are already around us, in our farms, fisheries, food businesses, universities, laboratories and communities. We have the resources, the traditional knowledge, the scientific expertise and talented young people. What we need now is to connect them and act.

A better food future begins with the choices we make today.

Dr. Kaushalya Wijayasekara

Senior Lecturer, Department of Biosystems Technology, Faculty of Technology, University of Ruhuna

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20th Anniversary of Digampathana blast – the day Sri Lanka Navy cried

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Aftermath of the terror attack

By Admiral Ravindra C Wijegunaratne
WV, RWP and Bar, RSP, VSV, USP, NI (M) (Pakistan), ndc, psn, Bsc
(Hons) (War Studies) (Karachi) MPhil (Madras)
Former Navy Commander and Former Chief of Defence Staff
Former Chairman, Trincomalee Petroleum Terminals Ltd
Former Managing Director Ceylon Petroleum Corporation
Former High Commissioner to Pakistan

The Digampathana suicide truck attack on 16th October 2006 remains the deadliest single strike in Sri Lanka Navy history, leaving scars that time cannot erase.

It was a seemingly ordinary Monday morning on 16 October 2006, but the calm of that day would soon be shattered in a way none of us could have imagined. As the Commandant of the Naval and Maritime Academy and Flag Officer Commanding Naval Fleet at Trincomalee, I was aware that a number of my cadets were travelling that morning, part of a convoy of fifteen buses carrying naval personnel from Trincomalee, Colombo, and other bases, heading toward Dambulla to rendezvous with another group. The convoy also included trucks and escort vehicles, a routine movement planned and coordinated with the army to ensure the roads were clear. The morning started quietly. Some personnel greeted friends, handed over their weapons, or strolled to a nearby tea shop. It all seemed so ordinary—too ordinary for what would come next.

Sri Lanka Navy sunk LTTE Ships carrying arms, ammunition and warlike materials thousand miles away from Sri Lanka in Indian Ocean in September and October 2007.

By late morning, both convoys had reached the small ground at Digampathana, near the Sigiriya junction, and personnel mingled briefly, unaware that a carefully orchestrated act of terror was waiting. Then, suddenly, an empty half-truck veered directly into the convoy. It exploded with a ferocity I can still recall as if it were yesterday. Nuts, bolts, and high explosives tore through the air. Pandemonium erupted instantly. I later learned that 107 of our naval personnel were killed on the spot and another 153 critically injured. The scene was indescribable—bodies scattered, vehicles mangled, personal effects strewn across the ground. I remember later hearing that the head of the suicide bomber was recovered more than 100 meters away from the blast, a grim testament to the sheer force of the explosion.

I was in my office at the Naval and Maritime Academy when my mobile phone rang. A young midshipman from the 21st intake called, his voice trembling: “Sir, there was a huge explosion at the convoy point! Many are dead … my batch mate Wijesundara is among them.” I immediately jumped into my jeep with my escort Chief Petty Officer and driver and rushed to Digampathana, relying on every ounce of my driving skill to reach the scene. The journey, which usually took little more than an hour, felt endless that day, each passing mile weighed down by dread.

When I arrived, I was confronted with a sight that no training can prepare you for. The injured were being rushed to Dambulla Hospital, where doctors and nurses worked tirelessly, improvising in ways that saved lives despite the overwhelming chaos. I went back to the site after visiting the hospital. The remains of our naval personnel were scattered across the ground, and someone had begun collecting weapons and protective gear. I immediately contacted Surgeon Rear Admiral Nico Jayasekara and received his instructions: collect all body parts in separate bags and transport them to the Trincomalee Naval Hospital mortuary. This gruesome work had to be done with care and dignity, and it filled the icebox in my vehicle. Through DNA testing initiated by Rear Admiral Nico, we were able to identify every naval personnel lost that day, bringing some closure to grieving families.

The Navy Commander at the time, Vice Admiral Wasantha Karannagoda, was devastated. I had worked closely with him and knew how deeply he cared for his men. He ensured that the fallen were honoured with full ceremonial naval funerals at Welisara Naval Base, attended by families and comrades. Sixty-seven funerals were conducted in a single day—a number that still haunts me.

The Digampathana attack remains the largest single loss of naval life in our history. It was a day of sorrow, but also a day that reinforced our resolve. The tragedy galvanized the Navy to target the LTTE Sea Tiger wing with renewed determination and reshaped our maritime operations forever. Every time I think of that day, I remember not just the lives lost, but the courage, professionalism, and dedication of those who survived, those who treated the injured, and those who ensured the fallen were honored properly. May the souls of our naval hero’s rest in peace, their sacrifice guiding us and inspiring generations of naval personnel to come.

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‘Murder at Whitby Abbey’

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Tales of Mystery and Suspense – 24

I was intrigued by the title of a book I found in a book drop at the condominium of a friend, Murder at Whitby Abbey, and I brought it home with me though I will not be able to return it in the near future. It was described on the cover page as ‘a standout in the crowded medieval mystery field’, though I fear I do not know of other books in this field, apart from the Cadfael series, which I have dealt with earlier.

The book, by Cassandra Clark, is set during the reign of Richard II and has as a backdrop his precarious position, which led to his being replaced, and murdered, by his cousin Henry, who reigned as Henry IV. It is a gloomy book, the action taking place in the twelve days of Christmas leading up to the Epiphany. And the gloom is pervasive, even though this is supposed to be a time of festivity, with mummers performing, and many of those in the guest house where the heroine stays going to town to enjoy themselves, with much drinking and much music, which also fills the guesthouse.

The heroine Hildegarde is a nun, sent to try to acquire a relic being sold by Whitby Abbey, though this was also a penance set by the Abbot of the monastery that governed her abbess because she had had sex with a man. Soon after she and her companions reach the Abbey set high on a cliff, she finds that there are other bidders, and soon suspects that the hierarchy, not perhaps the Abbot who seems a weakling, but his rapacious bursar, is determined to make money, and not above creating false relics to sell to several aspirants.

After Hildegarde and her Cistercian companions – Whitby is a Benedictine Foundation – two monks, Gregory and Egbert, and a young priest Mark, reach the abbey, they find that Aelwyn, a monk they had met on their way to the guesthouse had died. This was in the apple store, and they realize, when they find the surplices of novices stuffed into the air vents, that he had been left to suffocate in the overwhelming scent of apples.

Clark

The Cistercians are asked to look into the death, perhaps because they are likely to get no cooperation from the Abbey folk, but perhaps because those in charge are keen to know what happened. And the infirmarer, an old monk, suggests Hildegarde talk to a man called Edred who worked for the bursar, and had been a friend of Aelwyn’s. But Edred too is killed, before he can keep an appointment he had made with Hildegarde, drowned in a pool near the farmhouse of the Abbey.

Meanwhile tensions arise between the fisherfolk and the abbey for the bursar wants to charge them for using the beach that technically belongs to the abbey to dry their fish and their nets. This leads to physical battles, when the guards used by the abbey, under the command it seems of the bursar whose determination to make money is not resisted by the abbot and the prior, try to storm the area where the fishermen live.

Hildegard finds out more about what had happened through two youngsters, one of whom Torold is the son of Aelwyn by a woman who worked as a prostitute for a cartel, and with whom Mark fell in love. The other works on the farm and had seen Edred meet someone near the pool, after which that someone left the place by himself. And the boy had also found in the pool a sort of dagger with the seal of the abbey.

He and his dog, and Torold who follows her, rescue Hildegarde from a man at arms who has waylaid her and tries to rape her earlier. Escaping into the abbey she was nearly been raped then by the bursar, but she managed to escape, in the process setting fire to him and the muniments room, which led, when he was rescued, to the discovery of a box with the money he said had been stolen, blame being cast on both Aelwyn and Edred.

Matters come to a head when the fisherfolk try to storm the abbey, being resisted by the men at arms stationed on the towers. But then Hildegarde realizes that behind the murders was the bursar’s clerk, whom she pursued to the cathedral. There is great drama then as she escapes from him when he tries to kill her, and then from the man at arms who had tried to both rape and kill her, but they both fall from the scaffolding she had climbed, the latter coming from a tower where he had been stationed.

Both of them think they run the rapacity of the abbey, the latter claiming to work for the nobles opposed to Richard, who is presented throughout the book as devoted to his subjects, not to power or money. But though the villains die, the bursar continues, having got over the hysteria the fire had caused and his acknowledgment then of guilt – and though the abbot and the prior seem less vicious, whether they will be able to assert themselves is questionable.

Before the climax, when the others in the guesthouse were leaving, Hildegarde found that two of them were in possession of the relic, for which they seem to have paid well. Hildegarde herself had made a derisory offer, but before she leaves the abbot gives her the relic, perhaps in gratitude for what she and her fellow Cistercians had discovered, the abbey having made as much money as it needed and more from the gullible other buyers.

Mark’s inamorata is saved from the stews because she moves in with Edred’s widow whom the bursar had thrown out of the rooms he occupied when her husband was found dead. Hildegarde had paid for lodgings, in a house run by the man who ran the brothels, but he had a kindly side and was going to finance them to make nets for the fishermen.

So, the Cistercians set off for their home as swiftly as they can to get there on the day of the Epiphany, having stopped en route to pray for King Richard whose birthday it was.

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