Features
Three gutsy women who chose the less travelled road
I was totally impressed reading about a Chinese woman of 56 who, tiring of her duty- filled work as housewife in an unhappy marriage just took off on a solo trip across China that, writers about her – Joy Dong and Vivian Wang – say “challenged deep-rooted gender norms.” She spends each night alone, curled up in a four and a half by eight foot tent, balanced on stilts on the roof of her car. She has seen her daughter and grandchildren only once in the past six months, and her husband not at all. Cheers to Su Min from Hunan Province, I say, now a feminist icon to the entirety of China. And she says, she has never been happier before cutting free “this time to find myself.” Cheers again!
The solo tripper
That is certainly not the end of the story nor all about Su Min. She felt she had done all she could as dutiful Chinese woman, maybe subservient to a domineering husband too. So she is “embracing a new identity: fearless road–tripper and internet sensation. For six months, she has been solo driving across China, documenting her journey for more than 1.35 million followers across social media platforms.” More interesting than the vistas she describes are intimate details of domestic life she reveals along with her dissatisfaction that drove her to a most unconventional step taken.
Su Min grew up in Tibet and when she missed the school bus, she walked the 12 miles on mountain roads. She used to drool seeing trucks pass by and imagined herself at the wheel. In China, she took on a factory job and married and found her
husband would be away from home for long spells and not tolerate her asking him questions. Physical abuse was frequent. She never considered leaving home or him, due to fearing the social stigma that would surely follow. In 2017, her daughter gave birth to twins whose care was transferred to her. Her husband cooled down but there was nothing in the marriage. She sought solace in novels and travel books, and romantic Korean soap operas but loneliness increased until finally a doctor diagnosed depression,
Then, in late 2019, she came across a video online of someone introducing their camping gear while on a solo road trip. She remembered her childhood dream of driving – the freedom and comfort it represented. She planned her trip. She had already bought herself a white hatchback Volkswagen with her savings. Her monthly pension was around $300.
When her grandsons started schooling, she decided to leave on her trip, Her family did not approve; her husband mocked her. With her daughter finally turning cooperative, she left her home in Zhengzhou on September 24, 2020, with a tent atop her car and a packed minifridge.
Millions watched the video she shared on social media, marveling at her new found freedom and doing exactly what she wanted like eating hot peppers which at home she could not, the others not sharing her taste.
She has encountered hostility, along with hosannas. Once a man asked her how she aired her family’s private affairs and said he would beat her if they met in person. She replied, “Good thing I haven’t met you.” However, it’s been more sympathy and praise that she’s received. “Older women send her messages about how painfully familiar her story feels and greet her at each destination with fruit and home-cooked meals. For the younger, she is a fount of advice about marriage and child rearing.” “Her unexpected popularity speaks to the collision of two major forces in Chinese society: the rapid spread of the internet and a flourishing awareness of gender equality in a country where traditional gender roles are still deeply rooted, especially among the older generations.”
Ms. Su’s daughter, Du Xiaoyang, who visited her in Hainan last month, said her mother was a new person.”Anything she wants to do, she just does, whereas before she seemed afraid of everything.”
She plans to travel much more for a couple of years. She does not contemplate divorce but may move away from her husband if he continues his ill-treatment of her. “Now that I’ve finally come out, I need time to let it melt away,” she said. “There are many things that, as time passes, may have an outcome you never imagined.”
Local women solo trippers
Sri Lanka is definitely short of the likes of Su Min, and if there are women who threw it all away to fulfill themselves as independent women, managing adventuring forth alone, they have not taken off with their go-ahead instincts. Several young unmarried women travel in-country and overseas but in groups and maybe pairs; women only though.
I knew a young woman who said she dreams of throwing a backpack on her shoulders and just roaming around. That was in the 1960s with hippies breaking away. She did lead a fairly free life, mostly overseas, travelling alone, but with others in Sri Lanka.
Which brings to mind two daring women who deserve our unreserved admiration. The first has undoubtedly got it; actually not enough public acclaim. The second earned censure then, but she was a trailblazer in many ways.
Jayanthi Kuru-Utumpala scales Everest
Jayanthy Kuru-Utumpala is the most prestigious of women who went their way, who was the first Lankan and one of the very few South and South East Asian and Western women to scale the Himalayas. She conquered Mt Everest on the Vesak full moon night of May 21, 2016.
From her childhood, Jayanthi’s dream had been to climb Everest, even though two decades ago it would have seemed most unlikely. On any holiday the family went, she would find a hill to climb; five times up Sri Pada. Kirigalpotha and Horton Plains.
She has a Master’s degree in Gender Studies from Sussex University and is employed in the women’s rights field. When she attended seminars overseas, she saved every penny of her stipend and went mountain climbing: the Argentine Andes and Spanish Pyrenees being high points in her adventures. At the ages of 23 and 24 she followed basic and advanced mountaineering courses which taught her skills in rock and ice climbing. Both courses culminated in her scaling a 20,000 foot Himalayan peak in Sikkim, N E India.
And then she was set to climb the mountain of all mountains. In 2011 she met Johaan Peries who shared her zeal for mountaineering and her intrepid nature. They teamed up. She told me, with gratitude obvious in her voice, how much he helped her, supported her morally which was the kind of support she needed most. He was always a good companion. Jayanthi realized her dream.
Damayanthi Dunuwila sails with one other
My second example of an intrepid woman, adventurer really, is even more daring as she set forth on a sailing trip from Colombo to Lisbon with an American millionaire in his yacht during the later part of the 1950s. You can imagine the sensation she caused and censure among conservative women of Kandyan lineage. But she went her way and all we can say is ‘good for her!’
She was in University College when offered a scholarship to the London Royal Academy of Music. She grabbed it as her lifelong love was music. Elected a Licentiate of the Royal Academy, in 1950 she won the prestigious History of Music Prize, first Asian to win it. In 1955 her father fell seriously ill and she returned home. She performed on Radio Ceylon. When her father recovered, she wanted to return to London but her scholarship had lapsed, The lucky break (to diehard conservatives the daring temptation) was her being recruited by a visiting globetrotting American millionaire to assist him write his travelogue. Having a passport to travel anywhere, she sailed with him in his yacht to Lisbon to study Portuguese history. She met engineer Sven Sahlin and they married in 1962, making their home in Sweden. Her daughter engineer Shanaz married Per Sandberg. Damayanthi was a niece of D S Senanayake and probably was the inspiration for a famous baila still sung at parties.
This to be admired woman who broke bonds of conservatism and rigid stereotyping of women then, more so those of the ‘upper class’ was a talented musician, linguist and woman who achieved her desire to return to music studies in London unconventionally, yet successfully.
An anecdote told me by a Lake House staffer of then goes thus. In the furor raised by Damayanthi’s impending trip a journo visited her home to interview her. He found it full of dignified women in Kandyan dress. He asked her what they thought of her travelling alone across the ocean with a white man. “They are welcome to think whatever they want to, I care not.” Bravo to this intrepid woman who took the less travelled road which made all the difference!
Features
‘Lord Edgware Dies’
It has been some time since I read an Agatha Christie, the plot of which I cannot remember. So, I was delighted to find on the shelves of a friend Lord Edgware Dies, which I had a vague memory of, but no certainty about who had done it.
When I read it, I found that my memory of who was probably the killer was correct, but I could not be certain and the red herrings Christie threw in were so diverting that until almost the very end I wondered if I had been wrong.
The plot is very simple. Jane Wilkinson, who is married to Lord Edgware, tells him that she is desperate for a divorce since she is in love with a very proper Anglo-Catholic peer, Lord Melton, but Edgware refuses to divorce her. She asks Poirot to talk to him, which he does, and is surprised to find that Edgware has told Jane he is prepared to give her a divorce. This was, after he had categorically refused, through a letter, which Jane said she had not received.
That night Edgware is murdered, after Jane had been to see him, or so the butler said, and also Edgware’s secretary. But Jane had been that evening at a grand dinner many miles away, where a dozen fellow guests could swear to her presence.
There was a solution however to the mystery of two Jane Wilkinsons, namely a skilful impersonator called Carlotta Adams who, in the opening chapter had impersonated Jane Wilkinson, who had also been at the performance. But when Poirot goes to see her, he finds that she had been found dead on the morning after Edgware had been killed, of an overdose. And in her bag was a gold case, with a strange inscription, that contained the drug, along with a pair of pince-nez.
Her maid said she had written a letter to her sister in America and posted it the previous night. Poirot asks Inspector Japp to get the letter, and a transcript is received from America, and in it the name of Edgware’s nephew Ronald Marsh is mentioned; he had taken Carlotta to dinner after her performance, with which the book opens, and had then set her a challenge. Japp arrests Marsh, but Poirot is not happy and asks for the original of the letter, which the sister sends him. That shows that a page is missing, and the tear is obvious, though that raises the question as to why it had not simply been cut.
Matters are further complicated by the fact that Marsh had gone in a taxi to the Edgware house, along with Edgware’s daughter Geraldine, in the interval of an opera which had previously seemed to provide them with cast iron alibis. Geraldine had gone in to fetch her pearls so that Marsh could raise money he needed, and thus had an opportunity to kill Edgware, as did Marsh, for the driver said he had got out of the taxi while waiting and gone into the house.
Marsh explained why he had gone to the house on the night of the murder as having followed Bryan Martin, an American actor, who had been in love with Jane, whom he saw go into the house with a key. But there was no one visible when he entered, and Geraldine almost immediately came down and they left together. And Martin too has become an object of suspicion to Poirot, for he had been to see him before the murders were discovered with a story of being followed by a man with a gold tooth – a story Poirot immediately realized was false when he was asked how old the man was, and was told he was young, for young people did not have gold teeth.
A heap of French money Edgware had got for a trip to Paris was missing, but since Marsh had no need for it after his cousin’s offer of help, Poirot deduces that it must have been taken by the butler, who has disappeared. Christie has stressed that he is astonishingly handsome, unusual in a butler, and Poirot notes a resemblance to Martin, so he thinks the mysterious man going into the house must have been him.
Incidentally, later Poirot assumes that Edgware’s change of mind was because he was involved in some scandal, and I believe Christie intends us to see the cause of this in his handsome butler, though this is not specified.
Meanwhile, Poirot has asked Japp to find out the provenance of the case found in Carlotta’s handbag, and it turns out to have been made in Paris, specially commissioned, and collected by a woman with pince-nez.
But then another murder occurs—that of another guest at the grand dinner, which provided Jane with her alibi. The victim is an actor who had been bemused when Jane, at a lunch, thought the Judgment of Paris referred to the city. He told Hastings he wanted to see Poirot, but was killed before he could get to the appointment. Poirot had rushed there when told about his request, but it was too late.
Meanwhile, Poirot has tried out the pince-nez on Edgware’s secretary, but she could not see through these. It was only a chance remark heard outside the theatre that led him to try them out on Wilkinson’s maid Ellis, a spare pair that had been appropriated for the night of the murders.
Poirot then lays things out, having summoned Martin and told him that he probably suppressed Edgware’s letter, as he had been dropped by then and he did not want Jane to marry another. But after teasing Martin, Poirot says that Jane was in fact the murderer, and she got Carlotta to impersonate her at the dinner while she went to the house and killed her husband. After meeting Carlotta later and checking with her through a call that she had
not been rumbled, Jane had gone ahead with the murder – she put veronal into her drink and the case with veronal into the handbag. She forgot to take out the pince-nez she had used earlier to imitate an American. Carlotta had registered as the American in a hotel and Jane had gone to see her, and there they exchanged identities. After seen the letter, she made use of it by tearing off the page that referred to her, and the S of She, so that the person who had challenged Carlotta to impersonate her seemed to be a man.
There is a coda in which Jane, condemned to death, writes to Hastings, still full of pride at her ingenuity hoping she will be remembered.
Features
Desilt reservoirs, learn from our ancient irrigation systems
by Prof. O. A. Ileperuma
Silting of reservoirs is a major problem today affecting our hydropower production and irrigation systems. The main Mahaweli reservoirs are silted to a considerable extent reducing the water holding capacity of them. Due to poor soil management practices, floodwaters deposit large amounts of silt in these reservoirs. When the Polgolla reservoir was fully drained about two years back, one could see mountains of silt in the lower reaches of the reservoir. A rough estimate is that 50% of the total capacity of these reservoirs has been lost to siltation. This is a serious issue which affects not only power and agriculture but also flood control.
Our ancient irrigation systems ensured that desilting of reservoirs took place under royal decree where all users of the reservoirs were ordered to carry out desilting of reservoirs during the dry season. The clay thus collected was used in making bricks for the construction of great stupas which dot the landscape of our ancient kingdoms. This ensured that the reservoirs had their full capacity filled with water for the next cultivating season. Our ancient kings were clever enough not to construct reservoirs by blocking main rivers such as the Mahaweli. A classic example is the Minipe left canal where they tapped only the surface water of Mahaweli. Even the bigger tanks such as Nuwara Wewa and Parakrama Samudraya were fed with minor rivulets. There were also other ingenious features in the cascade irrigation systems built by the ancient kings, such as mud sluice canals and forest reservations between the reservoirs in the cascade system. These reservations helped trap silt and remove excess nutrients, which could otherwise contribute to increasing salinity as water flowed from one reservoir to another.
- Parakrama Samudraya
- Kalawewa
- Kotmale
A classic engineering marvel is the former Yoda Ela, which carries water from Kalawewa to Nuwara Wewa and Tissa Wewa. It is 87 km long although the straight distance between these points is only about 40 km. The gradient of this canal is about 10 cm per km or 6 inches per mile. Yodha Ela functions as a moving reservoir and feeds about 4,600 hectares of paddy lands. It is a winding canal with about 120 smaller reservoirs on its way. It was constructed during the reign of King Dhatusena around 459 AD and later expanded by King Parakramabahu by connecting more reservoirs to the network. Unfortunately, during the Mahaweli project our modern-day engineers constructed a concrete canal replacing the winding path of this Yoda Ela also called Jaya Ganga. This effectively removed the ability of the old Yoda Ela to remove silt and nutrients. The bank of this Ela has wet zone trees such as jak and areca nut growing well. They take up the nutrients from the flowing stream making the water suitable for irrigation later.
Ancient Mesopotamian civilisations depended on dams constructed along the two main rivers, Euphrates and Tigris. After continuous irrigation of their fields over several thousand years, salinity of the irrigated lands increased making them unsuitable for agriculture. People died due to famine and this clearly illustrates the danger of blocking main rivers for agriculture. There is scientific evidence that the salinity of paddy soils in the Mahaweli C area is increasing.
We saw the devastation caused by Cyclone Ditwah. The sluice gates of the Kotmale Reservoir were opened, and Kandy and Peradeniya were flooded. If the reservoir had had greater storage capacity, couldn’t the opening of the gates have been delayed? This may not be an argument that modern-day engineers would readily accept, and I am not an irrigation expert. These ideas may well be naïve. But most of us tend to think of reservoirs mainly in terms of hydropower generation and irrigation, while their role in flood control receives much less attention. The question therefore deserves serious consideration. Could restoring lost reservoir capacity through desilting help improve our ability to manage extreme rainfall and reduce flood risks?
Desilting our reservoirs should be considered a national priority.
Features
Losing out to Ethiopia
Export diversification – Missing the wood for the trees – Part III
by Gomi Senadhira
In Sri Lanka, the word “Ethiopia” is often used as disparaging slang to describe individuals or areas experiencing extreme poverty, starvation, or severe economic hardship. This linguistic habit originated in the 1980s with the Western media coverage of the devastating Ethiopian famine of 1983-85. That media coverage shocked the world but also left an outdated and offensive global stereotype that the country is permanently starving. Much has changed since then. By now, with an annual growth rate of around 9%, it is the fastest-growing economy in sub-Saharan Africa. Ethiopia has also emerged as a highly competitive exporter and is challenging not only its competitors in the region but also countries like Sri Lanka. This article is on how Sri Lanka has lost ground to Ethiopia (and a few other countries) in the GCC markets for agricultural and floricultural products.
Sri Lanka – A Pioneer in the Agriculture and Floricultural Market in the GCC
As discussed in Part II of this article, by the mid-1980s Sri Lanka had established a strong foothold in the GCC’s fruit, vegetable, and floricultural market. Geographical proximity and well-established shipping and air links gave Sri Lanka a strong comparative advantage over Southeast Asian and African nations. Thailand, Vietnam, and Kenya were not even in the market. At that time, Ethiopia was experiencing (as BBC news reports described) “a biblical famine”.
The market was not very large, but it was lucrative and growing. Trade Minister Lalith Athulathmudali as well as the Chairman of the Export Development Board, Victor Santiapillai, who visited Kuwait (and the GCC countries), recognised the market potential for these products and encouraged us to continue with our work. The minister was particularly keen to further develop links between the market for these products, exporters, and his Export Production Villages (EPVs). So, it was becoming a successful case not only for export diversification but also for transferring gains from exports directly to rural households.
From Trailblazer to Tailender
As a result, even by the beginning of this century Sri Lanka had a larger market share than most of its competitors from Asia or Africa. But since then, our competitiveness has weakened significantly. The tables below provide a comparative snapshot of Sri Lanka’s performance vis-à-vis Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya and Ethiopia in the GCC market for vegetables, fruits and floricultural products. As illustrated therein, in 2001 Sri Lanka was ahead of Thailand, Kenya and Ethiopia in this small but rapidly growing market. Since then, we have fallen behind Thailand, Kenya and many other countries in that lucrative market. If this trend continues, Sri Lanka will fall behind Ethiopia within the next few years. (See Table 1)
In the GCC market for vegetables (covered in HS chapter 07), Sri Lanka was ahead of most other competitors in 2001. As illustrated in Table 1 , Sri Lanka had failed to develop this market, while Thailand, Kenya, and even Ethiopia had very efficiently increased their market shares. The GCC is a market to which Sri Lanka can supply some vegetables, like cabbages, by sea. It appears Sri Lanka had also failed to exploit this mode of supply.
We can see a similar trend in the market for fruits. Vietnam, Kenya, and Thailand have emerged as major players, while exports from Sri Lanka have staggered on slowly. In this segment, Vietnam has emerged as a leading player during the last twenty years and the GCC imports from Viet Nam have shot up from US$44 thousand in 2001 to US$346 million by 2024. In part one of these articles, I discussed the remarkable increase of jackfruit exports from Vietnam “…just $3 million in 2015 to an impressive $236.8 million in 2023” while most of our jackfruit production rots under the trees. This explains how countries develop their markets, geographically and product-wise. (See Table 2)
Sri Lanka’s performance has been weakest in the market for floricultural products (HS Chapter 06), which groups live trees, cut flowers, and ornamental foliage. When we first entered the market in the 1980s, the market was dominated by the Netherlands, and Kenya and Ethiopia were not even in the market. At that time, we identified the Gulf states as a market where Sri Lanka could have a dominant presence due to geographical proximity. Even in 2001, Sri Lanka was ahead of Kenya, Ethiopia, and Thailand. But by now, Kenya has emerged as the dominant supplier. Ethiopia is also expanding its market share and is the third-largest exporter. (See Table 3)
Missing the Wood for the Trees
In the mid-1980s, Sri Lanka first established its foothold in the GCC market. Since then, Thailand, Vietnam, Kenya, and even Ethiopia have moved well ahead of us and have become leading players. Why did we lag behind in our export diversification efforts in general and, more particularly, in the GCC market?
The reasons are very clear. After the initial attempts in the 1980s and early 1990s, Sri Lanka has not been proactively involved in identifying, developing, and promoting new products and markets, or protecting and further developing new markets already established. The focus has simply been on traditional exports: tea, coconut, cinnamon, and garments, while other products were almost ignored. In essence, we have been and continue to focus intensely on a narrow group of products and markets, and we have lost sight of the bigger picture.
(The writer can be reached at senadhiragomi@gmail.com)
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