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Sri Lankan places as seen by Razeen Sally, then and now

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“The attraction of Sri Lanka …, for me, is all wound up with being half Sri Lankan and having been born and spent my childhood there, and then coming back about the country. My main fresh discovery, traveling around the island properly, was the back-of-beyond places that I didn’t really get to see as a child. Getting under the skin of people in these places, walking all over the landscapes, was just wondrous. I can’t think of anywhere else—at least that I’ve been to—where in a comparable space you have as much variety of people, cultures, flora, fauna, and landscapes… In a mid-sized island roughly the size of Ireland, you have an incredible variety.

“The other thing I would point to about Sri Lanka is its baffling complexity. I call it ‘paradoxical’ in the subtitle of my book, and for a small country with a population of around 20 million, there are just so many contradictions. In the book, I say it’s a heaven-and-hell country, engulfed and consumed by its own extremes. The obvious paradox is this beguiling charm I mentioned, especially of Sinhala-Buddhist culture in the lush, green wet zone, alongside an astonishing record of violence that leaves admiring foreigners completely puzzled and in a state of consternation. They just can’t explain it. That, among other contradictions, always puzzled me as a child, and they lingered with me during my three decades or so of absence. I suppose that the central paradox of beguiling charm and violent eruptions was the really hard puzzle that I set off on my travels with, when I came back to rediscover Sri Lanka in my mid-40s. So, that’s the attraction of Sri Lanka for me, in a nutshell.” – (Quote from an interview Razeen faced.)

The 2019 book

I write after absorbed reading of Razeen Sally’s Return to Sri Lanka: travels in a Paradoxical Island published by Juggernaut, New Delhi, 2019, 386 pages. I was very impressed by the book which provided most interesting and easy reading. My son who read it day and night when on holiday here, compared it very favourably with John Gimlette’s 2015 excellent travelogue titled Elephant Complex. Yes, it is on par with that Britisher’s book on Sri Lanka; both being much, much more than mere travel books.

Razeen has attempted much within 378 pages of text – a travelogue and autobiographical memoir where ‘memoir’ means “a historical account or biography written from personal knowledge”. His father, Farouk Sally, RAF cadet, met on board a ship, when returning to the island, a Welsh telephone operator Pat Kneen who was travelling to Australia. Their love culminated in marriage when she returned to Wales in the 1960s and came over. Razeen and two younger brothers were born and grew up in Ceylon but his father, facing a foreign exchange case during Mrs B’s government (1970-76), was imprisoned. Mother and children left to settle down in Wales; Razeen was 12. He first returned after he turned 42 and the book is about his impressions on his various visits; biography; people met and associated with; history of the country both ancient and current, including ethnic violence and political see-sawing down the years. This varied mix he deftly and cleverly deals with and presents in a most readable volume.

The article I write today (with his obtained go-ahead) is his impressions of places, quoting him when needed. I mean to write a second article about Razeen Sally, his family and other persons who were in his life The most invigorating feature of the article is that I know most places and sites, meaning those he mentions I have lived in or visited. Thus it is personally enlightening and even more than interesting to see how he accepts/reacts to changes. His book will be greatly appreciated by the better sort of tourist too who needs more than just R&R and visits to places.

I comment on Part Two titled Sri Lanka through Adult Eyes: A Travelogue.

Razeen starts with Home Town Colombo – Then and Now

This chapter covers p 111 to 166. We know most of what has changed, particularly the skyline with the Port City grabbing attention whether of admiration, surprise, or consternation. He deals of course with ‘development’, especially in infrastructure and buildings; so also the tensions: tsunami, ethnic riots, Buddhist uprisings et al which we recollect so sadly or disgustedly.

He writes “Home Town is not what it used to be. Manners and mores changed. Fraternizing still takes place across religions and ethnic lines, but much less so…. Some things, though, have not changed. For all Colombo’s expansion since the 1970s, it retains a small-town feel…”

He writes at length about the colonial era hotels giving their histories and legends too. His uncle owned Mt Lavinia Hotel and his father was GM so he knows that hotel in and out. He stays mostly at the Galle Face Hotel when in Colombo. The extensive renovation of GFH brought on a “bland opulence” which to him was disappointing. The GOH/Taprobane “Now a shabby shadow of its colonial glory.” The Capri Club was his father’s favourite watering hole with buddies “alcohol–sodden sanctuary for male badinage and bonding.” His narrative about the shooting of Mrs Boon Wat is different to one we heard then. He writes the Burmese diplomat shot both wife and lover when in bed, and the latter escaped. We heard the band leader came to fetch her for a dental appointment and she was shot when descending the stairs in the Residence, now the Capri Club.

“And Colombo is still a combustible mix. This mix (races) I consider a Colombo attribute; what vigour the city has could be much diminished without it. But the same mix can be a tinderbox when Hermann Hesse’s ‘gentle doe-eyed Sinhalese’ turn into a feral mob or when Islamist suicide bombers blow up churches and hotels.(That sentence, apart from the statement made, is a pointer to his excellent writing style and seamless mixing of features and factors; also total lack of prejudice).

His next sojourn is a Turn in the South detailing not the towns but remoter places of interest from Kalutara to Kirinde. He introduces Nihal his faithful, efficient driver, and is accompanied by The Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller (Studio Times, 1974), a family possession. He starts with a quotation from Leonard Woolf as he does all chapters – quotes from various persons. The next chapter on Kandy carries several quotes from Robert Knox.

He mentions the changing ownership of Count De Mauny’s Island to writer Paul Bowles with Robin Maugham visiting. Also Weligama Rest house of yesteryear, now renamed and Valentine Basnayaka designed Tangalle Bay Hotel. “Tangalle became Mahinda Rajapaksa’s ultimate refuge. Tangalle, not by accident, was the cauldron of JVP ferment, being the birth place of Rohana Wijeweera.”

“Hambantota is Sri Lanka’s ‘Malay town’… also the cradle of Rajapaksa vanity projects, all located outside the town” The resthouse on the small hill, wonderful say fifty years ago now “Looks woebegone like other state run RHs” He mentions what many previous satisfied stayers felt post 1970s, Hambantota RH was not the place to be in due to “police officers and other municipal officials arrived after work to get rat-arsed.” He writes much about Woolf and his conscientious work and writing; to him Woolf’s second volume of his autobiography “‘Growing’ sparkles with lyricism.” He visits Mattala airport and mentions rice storage in the cargo terminal. “In 2016 over 300 soldiers and police and volunteers were deployed to chase away wild animals that strayed on to the airport.”

Chapter 6 Kandy Road – To the Hill Capital and Tea Country has Razeen describe sites of interest en route to Kandy. He quotes copiously from Hermann Hesse. Robert Knox and Sir Ivor Jennings and writes about John D’Oyly. He found the Temple of the Tooth unwelcoming and there is little to see. He is taken up much more with the history of the Kandyan Kingdom and kings and writes at length on the University of Peradeniya. He climbs Adam’s Peak, stays over at Warwick Gardens proximate to Nuwara Eliya run by Jetwing. Life then in estate bungalows was a style apart. He finds these mores alive in the bungalow; and the estate lines of poky smoke filled rooms per family substituted by neat, self contained basic houses.

One of the Sally family owned a tea estate and bungalow off Hali-Ela. Razeena was a place of recuperation, rest and peace of mind to his mother and the kids. He stayed over when his mother joined him in Sri Lanka after his earlier visits and they journeyed up country via Belihuloya and Bandarawela. Ending this section he writes: “I felt sadness for what had become of Razeena, but the setting was everlasting: the remoteness, the Uva hills, the cool clean air, the scent of tea leaves outdoors and of tea dust from the factories. I was glad I returned; it was a homecoming.”

Chapter 7 Rajarata. Land of Kings is short: 262-289 p. Chapter 8 covers War Scars – The North and East. He finds it like his quote from Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller “The landscape is full of a bleak and bitter beauty such as you will find nowhere else in Sri Lanka.” That would have been soon after the war. When I visited in 2013, Jaffna and even the East Coast was buzzing economically and people bustling about. May there be complete reconciliation is the hope.

In his final Chapter Envoir (an author’s concluding words), Razeen ends the chapter and his book thus: “This mingling, peaceful and harmonious, this unity in wartime terror, and now in newfound peacetime prosperity: what a lovely, sweet metaphor for the best of Sri Lanka’s past and present… I mulled over it as Nihal drove me back to Arugam Bay. I thought of it as a metaphor of hope for Sri Lanka’s future.”

My conclusion: a beautiful book to read and mull over; and visit places with.

Thanks Razeen Sally!



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Features

Civilizational dialogue proving a remote possibility as realpolitik rages

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Political leaders at the Shanghai Cooperation Organization Summit 2026. (Photo by PROKOFYEV / POOL / AFP)

Looking back over the years since the 9/11 catastrophe, it could be said that barring former Iranian President Mohammad Khatami no world political leader of note has made an earnest effort to change the nature of global political discourse for the better. Khatami won world acclaim for his pronouncement that the time is right to launch and sustain a ‘Dialogue among Civilizations’.

This was in marked contrast to US political scientist Samuel P. Huntingdon’s epochal theses, formulated in the wake of 9/11 and other global political tumults that the Post Cold War era is essentially one of conflicts among civilizations. That is, people’s identity markers, such as culture and religion, are the prime shaping forces of international conflicts.

From a Political Realism standpoint, Huntingdon’s theory may seem to have gained in credibility over the years but it is Khatami’s pronouncement that has evoked an empathetic response in the hearts and minds of publics world wide. So much so, 2001 was proclaimed by the UN General Assembly as the ‘Year of Dialogue among Civilizations’.

It could be said that the latter proclamation was an endeavour to give back to humans their essential identity of peace-makers. It was an eschewing of the position that war and conflict are central to the human condition and amounted to upholding constructive dialogue among peoples and civilizations as a path to peace.

That things have not worked out in the world in keeping with the expectations of peace makers does not in any way invalidate the thesis that peace is the essential propensity of humans.

If peace-making is seemingly ineffective it is primarily because the path to peace is narrow, tortuous and time-consuming. On the other hand, violence usually misleadingly recommends itself to the human as the more expedient, cost-effective way out of a conflictual situation. However, the ultimate cost of the latter approach is prohibitive because it brutalizes the human beyond recognition.

Some of the evidence is before our eyes. The Trump administration, for example, has, minus much forethought, unleashed what may be described as a ‘quick-fix’ war against Iran but is now finding that it is in a veritable military quagmire in West Asia. The priority for the administration now seems to be a face-saving escape strategy. Such are the costs of the war option.

However, there is no denying that much remains to be done by the world community to bring peoples and cultures together with a view to enabling them to work as one for the cause of a less dangerous world.

Meanwhile, the broad divisions in international politics continue and past political polarities are lingering to the detriment of enhanced international understanding. The East and the West and the South and the North, for instance, are continuing to work in separate collectives, more or less, and no notable efforts are being made by the international community to bring these sides together for the purpose of united constructive action that could usher greater international well being.

The recent Shanghai Cooperation Organization Summit, 2026, held in Kyrgyztan was a replication of the above broad trends but there were some statements at the forum by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi that deserve special scrutiny and comment.

Modi was quoted saying among other things: ‘The land of Gandhi and the land of Buddha share a single message: the path to peace!..We must move away from endless war towards an end to the war. This is essentially for the well being of humanity. A peaceful resolution to all issues at the earliest is the call of humanity, and this is India’s message.’

The above is the language of international peace and unity. It is such language that will help in building bridges among civilizations and advance the cause of world peace. Besides, it will help bring a measure of understanding between North and South.

In this regard, the Trump administration could take a leaf or more from the Modi government. Unless it makes a ‘U turn’, as it were, in the direction of peace and reconciliation it is very unlikely that the US and the world would experience any stability worth speaking of.

Right now the US is savaging the sovereignty of Venezuela. It is a question of the ‘Empire striking back’ but Venezuela is a far cry from Iran. Iran has outsmarted the US on the battle field and is in a position to influence broad trends in the world economy since it still has control over the Hormuz Straits. That is, Iran could exercise a determining influence over world oil, gas and energy prices. In short, the US consumer’s future peace of mind is very much in the hands of Iran.

Given the above backdrop it should have dawned on the US political leadership that working towards cordial relations with Iran is the most advisable option. The US, simply, has too much to lose otherwise.

Likewise, Russia too needs to take a leaf from India. It is plain to see that its invasion of Ukraine is proving totally ineffective. It has not brought any measure of peace for the Russian people. Russia is right now experiencing a rerun of its military misadventure in Afghanistan. On the other hand, sections of the peoples concerned have been victimized and even brutalized.

Accordingly, there needs to be a coming together of democratic opinion worldwide for a fresh consideration of the options facing humanity. There is a dire need for value-based politics to take the place of Realpolitik. Besides, the language of peace and humanity needs to replace current divisive discourse with its stress on polarities and antagonisms.

International organizations of the stature of the UN need to take the lead in spearheading the above initiatives. Right now the UN gives the impression of being a spent force. This columnist hopes that he would be proved wrong on this score because the UN remains the only hope of the poor and victimized. It will be in the interests of all peoples for the UN to rejuvenate itself and dedicate itself increasingly enthusiastically to the cause of international peace.

Whether it be the South or North, dynamic, visionary political leadership and direction emerges as essential. The need is for voices that would espouse peace and accord across boundaries and divisions. For South Asia, India and Pakistan have the potential to fill this lacuna.

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Sri Lanka’s constitutional test: Judicial independence beyond immediate political moment

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Superior Court Complex, Colombo

by Shelton Dharmaratne

Sri Lanka has reached an important constitutional moment.

The proposed 22nd Amendment has moved beyond political debate and into the constitutional process through which its validity will be examined. That development should change the character of the national discussion.

That is understandable in a politically contested environment. But Sri Lanka should now resist reducing a question of constitutional design to a contest over political positions.

The deeper issue concerns the relationship between constitutional reform, judicial independence and public confidence in the institutions of the State.

The Supreme Court will determine the constitutional questions before it. Public commentators should therefore exercise restraint in predicting, interpreting or seeking to influence that determination. But restraint does not require silence. It requires a more rigorous discussion of the institutional principles at stake.

A narrower constitutional question than the political debate suggests

The proposed amendment principally concerns the retirement ages of judges of the Supreme Court and Court of Appeal, together with an increase in the maximum number of judges permitted on the Court of Appeal.

Under the proposal, the retirement age of Supreme Court judges would rise from 65 to 67 and that of Court of Appeal judges from 63 to 65. The maximum number of Court of Appeal judges would also increase from 19 to 24.

Other proposed changes concerning the retirement ages of judges in the lower courts arise under separate legislation. This distinction matters because the public debate has sometimes treated the wider package of judicial reform as though it formed a single constitutional proposal.

Nor should the central issue be reduced to whether retaining experienced judges is inherently good or inherently dangerous. Both propositions are too simplistic.

Sri Lanka faces a substantial burden of pending litigation, and delays in the administration of justice impose significant costs on citizens, businesses and the State. Experienced judges represent an institutional resource. Continuity, accumulated knowledge and familiarity with complex areas of law cannot always be replaced immediately.

Those are legitimate policy considerations.

But the opposing concern is equally important: judicial tenure is not merely an employment condition. It is a structural component of judicial independence.

The real question is institutional

The critical question is not whether an individual judge is capable of acting impartially. It is whether the constitutional structure provides adequate protection against circumstances in which judicial tenure could become connected, directly or indirectly, with political authority.

That is an institutional question, not an accusation against individual judges.

A judge may be entirely conscientious and independent while the institutional arrangements surrounding the judiciary nevertheless create public doubts about independence. Constitutional democracies therefore cannot depend solely on the personal integrity of office-holders. They must construct institutions capable of preserving independence even when governments, individuals and political circumstances change.

This is particularly relevant when constitutional reform concerns the tenure of serving members of the superior judiciary.

The institutional sensitivity of such a proposal should neither be exaggerated into an allegation of improper motive nor dismissed as irrelevant. The appropriate response is transparency, procedural fairness and confidence in constitutional safeguards.

Legitimate objectives do not settle constitutional questions

The government has stated that its objectives include strengthening the administration of justice, addressing delays, retaining judicial experience and increasing institutional capacity.

Those objectives deserve serious consideration. Sri Lanka needs judicial reform. Citizens waiting years for their cases to be concluded experience the justice system very differently from those discussing it in Parliament, courtrooms or universities.

A government is therefore entitled to propose reforms designed to improve judicial efficiency.

But legitimate objectives do not automatically resolve constitutional objections. The relevant question is whether the means chosen are compatible with the constitutional structure and whether sufficient safeguards exist against unintended institutional consequences.

That is precisely why constitutional scrutiny matters.

The concerns of the Bar Association of Sri Lanka (BASL) should likewise be examined without political labelling. Opposition to the proposed changes should not automatically be characterised as opposition to judicial reform or an attempt to obstruct the government. At the same time, invoking judicial independence does not place any argument beyond scrutiny.

The appropriate questions are straightforward:

Does extending judicial tenure strengthen the administration of justice?

What risks, if any, could it create for judicial independence?

Are adequate institutional safeguards in place?

Does the proposal operate prospectively, or does it affect judges already serving?

Could the same objectives be achieved by filling vacancies, increasing judicial capacity, improving court administration and strengthening case management?

These questions can be examined rationally without attributing improper motives to either side.

Judicial vacancies and institutional confidence

Recent concerns raised by the BASL regarding judicial vacancies add another dimension to the debate. The BASL has argued that vacancies in the Supreme Court contributed to the retirement of a senior Court of Appeal judge without promotion to the Supreme Court, despite vacancies having existed. It has also raised concerns regarding forthcoming judicial retirements and the need for timely consideration of appointments.

Such matters should not be treated as evidence of the motives behind the proposed amendment. They do, however, illustrate a broader principle.

Judicial independence is shaped not only by the retirement age written into the Constitution. It is also influenced by how vacancies are filled, how promotions are determined, how seniority and merit are assessed, and whether judicial officers and the public believe that institutional decisions are made according to transparent and defensible criteria.

The government has an opportunity to address these concerns constructively.

Prompt appointments based on publicly defensible principles would strengthen confidence in the judiciary irrespective of the eventual outcome of the constitutional debate.

Seniority, merit and transparent criteria

The controversy also exposes a longstanding question concerning judicial appointments.

Seniority has traditionally carried considerable weight in judicial advancement. Yet seniority alone need not be the sole measure of merit. Conversely, replacing established practices with undefined assessments of “merit” could create another institutional problem.

If governments or appointing authorities can determine which judges are sufficiently meritorious without clear and objective criteria, uncertainty itself may become a source of institutional anxiety.

Sri Lanka would therefore benefit from clearer, objective and defensible standards governing judicial appointments and promotions.

Such standards would protect judges as well as appointing authorities. They would reduce opportunities for favouritism, strengthen institutional confidence and make it harder for political actors to portray every appointment as politically motivated.

Institutional rules are stronger safeguards than assurances of good intentions.

The State is larger than any government

One principle deserves particular emphasis: a government is not the State.

Governments are temporary. The constitutional State is continuing. Political parties change, parliamentary majorities change and political priorities change. The judiciary, however, must continue to function independently of whoever occupies the government benches.

The judiciary is neither a government institution in the political sense nor an Opposition institution. It is an institution of the State whose legitimacy depends upon its independence from both.

For that reason, governments should exercise particular caution when proposing constitutional changes affecting the judiciary, even where the policy objectives are legitimate.

The stronger a government is politically, the greater its responsibility to demonstrate institutional restraint.

That is not political weakness. It is constitutional maturity.

Public confidence is a constitutional asset

The most consequential issue may ultimately be neither retirement age nor judicial capacity, but public confidence.

Courts do not possess political power in the conventional sense. Their authority rests substantially on the acceptance of their decisions as legitimate.

Citizens will sometimes disagree with judicial decisions. But where the judiciary is perceived as independent, even unpopular decisions can command respect. If judicial institutions are perceived as being shaped by political convenience, even legally sound decisions may become vulnerable to suspicion.

Constitutional reform affecting judicial tenure must therefore be evaluated not only by its immediate administrative benefits but also by its effect on institutional credibility.

A reform that produces short-term efficiency while weakening confidence in judicial independence could impose a greater long-term cost. Conversely, reform that improves efficiency while preserving independence can strengthen both justice and public trust.

The challenge is not to choose between judicial efficiency and judicial independence. It is to achieve both.

If a referendum arises …

If the constitutional process ultimately requires approval by the people at a referendum, the debate should rise above the conventional government versus Opposition contest.

The electorate should be given a clear constitutional question and sufficient information to assess it.

Citizens should understand what problem the amendment seeks to address, why the proposed mechanism is considered necessary, what institutional risks have been identified, what safeguards exist and whether alternative measures could achieve the same objectives.

A constitutional referendum deserves a higher standard of public discussion than an ordinary election campaign.

The people would not merely be choosing a political side. They would be deciding the institutional framework within which political power and judicial authority operate.

Beyond who wins

The most important question arising from the proposed Twenty-Second Amendment is therefore not simply whether the government succeeds or whether the Opposition and BASL prevail.

Nor is it ultimately whether judicial retirement ages become 67 and 65 or remain unchanged.

Those are immediate constitutional questions. The deeper issue is what Sri Lanka learns from the controversy.

If the government seeks to modernise and strengthen the justice system, that objective deserves serious consideration. If the BASL and others warn that particular reforms may affect judicial independence, those concerns deserve equally serious examination.

Neither side strengthens the country by assuming that the other is acting in bad faith.

The constitutional system is strongest when legitimate disagreements are resolved through institutions rather than political pressure.

Whatever the eventual constitutional outcome, Sri Lanka will still face the underlying challenges of judicial vacancies, case delays, institutional capacity, judicial appointments and public confidence. Those problems will not disappear with a judicial determination, nor should the national conversation end there.

Sri Lanka should instead seek a broader consensus around a fundamental proposition:

Judicial reform and judicial independence are not competing objectives.

The real challenge is to pursue reform in a manner that strengthens the judiciary without placing its independence under suspicion.

That requires sound legislation, transparent appointments, adequate resources, efficient court administration, responsible political conduct and safeguards capable of surviving changes of government.

The present controversy will eventually pass. Political arguments surrounding it will fade.

But constitutional arrangements can endure for decades.

That is why Sri Lanka must look beyond the immediate political contest.

The ultimate test is not who wins today’s constitutional argument. It is whether, when the political moment has passed, Sri Lanka has a judiciary that is more efficient, more accessible and more trusted—while remaining sufficiently independent to hold every government, including future governments, within the boundaries of the Constitution.

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Farewell to a Fashion Icon

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Chula was very fond of The Island newspaper and kept in touch with us on a regular basis (L) / Chula: Sent us this photo for Glam Scene, just a couple of weeks ago (R)

Sri Lanka’s fashion world lost one of its brightest stars Monday morning – veteran model, actress, and elite pageant trainer Chulpadmendra “Chula” Kumarapathirana.

Her sudden demise has certainly come as a shock to many.

Chula had just completed a major event on Sunday (30th August), and was no more in the land of the living the following day (31st August).

Born in Colombo, she was an old girl of Buddhist Ladies’ College and later studied at the National Institute of Business Management, and has many awesome achievements to her credit.

In 2006, she won the “Miss Tourism Model of the World Press Award” in Tanzania.

She entered the entertainment industry, as an actress, and gained popularity through the teledrama “Wahinna Muthu Wessak.”

Chulpadmendra has been on TV, and many Sri Lankan hip-hop music videos, including “Hanthane” and “Heena Hirimal”, and has had several other minor acting jobs since then.

She hosted the Derana Miss Sri Lanka for Miss World 2008 and even participated in the reality TV show Sirasa Dancing Star.

For over 25 years Chula was active in local and international fashion and founded the Chulpadmendra Catwalk Studio to train young newcomers

She trained hundreds of models for runway, photoshoots, auditions, and international pageants.

She was known as a fierce mentor who believed in “not just learning to walk, but learning to command the runway”.

Many young models called graduating from her studio their “happiest moment.”

Chulpadmendra “Chula” Kumarapathirana: Many young models called graduating
from her studio their “happiest moment.” (L)/ Won the “Miss Tourism Model of the World Press Award” in Tanzania (R)

Chula was very fond of The Island newspaper and kept in touch with us on a regular basis.

Her last message to The Island was a ‘thank you’ note for the article ‘New benchmark in pageant industry’:

“Thank you, Ivan, for writing such a beautiful article about me. Your unwavering support, encouragement, and belief in me throughout my career mean more than words can express. I am truly grateful for your kindness and generosity.

“My heartfelt thanks also go to The Island newspaper for featuring the article. It is a great honour, and I sincerely appreciate the recognition and support.

“Thank you once again.”

In fact, just a couple weeks ago, she sent a photo of herself for our Glam Scene and that picture I publish today, as part of this story.

May she rest in peace. Our deepest condolences to her family, students, and all who loved her.

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