Life style

Ravages of the Rangoon

Published

4 years ago

2021/11/7

On November 1, 1871, Australia-bound steamer, SS Rangoon having set sail from the Galle Harbour, hit a shoal of deadly rocks known as Kada Rocks and ran aground. 150 years later since she went down to rest on the seabed, we recapture her last moments and share the accounts of some of the best Sri Lankan divers who had been captivated by her wreck site of scenic beauty, almost losing the sense of time

By Randima Attygalle

For almost one week Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigating Company owned steamer SS Rangoon was anchored at the Galle Harbor waiting for the arrival of the SS Travencore from China. The crew and the passengers of the Australian-bound SS Rangoon were restless waiting for the SS Travencore which was carrying mail for Australian colonies. Captain Skottowe who was at the helm of the steamer too was impatient to call it a day completing his final voyage before retirement. Three days had gone by with still no Travencore anywhere in sight. The irritated local agent for the shipping line finally gave the nod for the Rangoon to sail. However, Captain Skottowe was instructed by the agent that if at all he were to sight the Travencore, the much awaited mail from China was to be transferred from it. It was November 1, 1871. Around 6 pm, finally the Rangoon left the shores of the island. Although the Travencore never reached on time, even after the Rangoon set sail, several small boats which had arrived at the Galle Harbor soon after the Rangoon had left, sped up to the vessel to transfer mail from the British-occupied Ceylon to Australia.

The steamer was now more than 2kmfrom a shoal of deadly rocks known as the Kada Rocks and a strong north-westerly current was active. In Ghosts of the Deep- Diving the shipwrecks of Sri Lanka, author Dharshana Jayawardena- techdiver and an underwater photographer documents: ‘Although marked with a beacon, they (the Kada Rocks) lurked just a few kilometres southeast of the Galle Fort, invisible to the Rangoon in the dark. It did not take long for the unpowered ship to drift, broadside towards the rocks and 25 minutes after she had set sail, the Rangoon struck the shoal somewhere aft amidships and almost immediately started taking in water.’

While below the deck of the steamer the crew frantically worked the pumps to drain the holds and stoked the coal into the boilers to keep the engines running despite a rapidly increasing water line, women and children were ordered into life boats. Amidst the chaos of transferring them to boats ‘on deck, lights, rockets and flash guns of various colours were fired to alert authorities ashore and any othervessels close enough to come to assistance.’

Jayawardena, in a dramatic account goes onto describe the mayhem: ‘However, the Travencore threw another proverbial wrench into the works. Harbor authorities who saw the lights assumed and not without some relief that the Rangoon had finally made contact with the Travencore to exchange mail!’. Seeing the distress signals, SS Berenice and the SS Sydenham came to rescue the passengers off the Rangoon. Two more vessels- SS Arrow and the SS Hercules also joined in the rescue mission. ‘The rising water levels finally put the boilers out and the engines choked to a complete stop’, writes Jayawardena. Mercifully, all passengers and the crew were

saved, but there was no chance of the SS Rangoon being towed. While the captain and the crew kept vigil, a fleet of canoes from the nearby villages raced up to the sinking vessel to plunder whatever valuables on board. While many of them were collecting anything of value that was floating around, a few more daring ones wasted no time going below decks in search of more riches.

search of more riches. ‘With startling, crackling and snapping noises her stern suddenly plunged into the sea. The stem at the bow rose towards the stars, while billows of vapour caused by escaping air, gushed out of the Rangoon like its last breath. As everyone gazed in horror, she steadily sank into the depths of the ocean and disappeared from sight. All that remained of her were the top of the three masts,’ Jayawardena’s account says. In a twist of fate, while all 58 passengers and 149 crew escaped, the only casualties were the plunderers who boarded the vessel in search of loot. Only 13 of the 700 mailbags were saved. For more than a century, the SS Rangoon lay in deep slumber in the depths of the ocean undisturbed until the divers and fishermen stumbled upon the wreck in 1986. Lying at a depth of 30m right in front of the outer Galle Harbour the wreck of the Rangoon is a scenic dive site, says Jayawardena who first dived to it in 2006, exactly 20 years after the wreck was first discovered. Among the first few divers to have explored the wreck within weeks of its discovery, was Dr. Malik Fernando, a founder member of the Sri Lanka Sub-Aqua Club and also a member of the team who helped setup the Maritime Archaeology Unit here in the early 90s.

In an account detailing his first dive to the wreck of the Rangoon and the recovery of several artefacts, Dr. Fernando says that the ship’s bell had been recovered enabling the confirmation that it was the wreck of the Rangoon, however, the bell had disappeared soon after. Soon the news of ‘a large quantity of ceramicware spilling out of a hole in the side’ reached them. These were being ‘avidly collected by local divers intent on earning a fast buck by feeding the antique shops.’ Rising early on March 16, 1986 for the dive, Dr. Fernando recollects seeing Halley’s Comet in the south-eastern sky ‘at an elevation of 45 degrees, a good omen as it turned out to be.’ Describing the first part of the wreck that came into his view ‘like the palp of an enormous squid’, the diver documents that the ‘hull of the ship itself was upright on the sand’. The enormous hole in the side of the hull at the starboard quarter was ‘spilling masses of chinaware on to the sand.’ A few years later in a follow up dive in 1988, Dr Fernando observed that the ‘ship appeared to have been flattened’. Underwater blasting of wrecks in the area in search of non-ferrous metals and blast fishing targeting the shoals which thrive in wreck sites are attributed to this sad state of affairs.

“Although the wreck of the Rangoon is quite deteriorated, it’s a spectacular dive site making a diver forego the sense of time,” says Jayawardena. The stem at the bow reminds one of an ancient Viking ship he says although the Rangoon was far from it. “It was 60 m long with a tonnage of 1,800.” The sheer beauty of the marine life replete with soldier fish, glass fish, rabbit fish, grey snappers and bluefin trevally often distract a diver from focusing on the wreck says Jaywardena who had dived there several times. Sri Lanka can be termed the ‘shipwreck capital of South Asia’ says the explorer. “With over 100 shipwrecks dotting its coast, and many of them providing a great wreck diving experience, Sri Lanka leads the scene even surpassing the wreck diving experiences offered by countries such as the Maldives, India, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. In this context, the SS Rangoon is valuable to the country historically as well as from a tourism revenue generation point of view,” observes Jayawardena.

The Rangoon is among the eight shipwrecks found in Galle which could be accessed for recreational diving and is also the oldest ‘visible’ wreck among them, says Rasika Muthucumarana, Maritime Archaeologist from the Maritime Archaeology Unit of the Central Cultural Fund in Galle. “Most of the older shipwrecks dating back to the Dutch period are buried and are not visible to the recreational diver and they are only of archaeological importance. The Rangoon on the other hand is an important wreck for it has not only a recreational value but also a historical and a tourism value. It is also very rich in marine life.”

Lying on a clear, sandy bottom, the Rangoon is also considered an ‘ideal wreck’ because most of its components are still clearly identifiable says the Marine Archaeologist. “Her bow, anchor, stern, propeller and the mast are still visible.” Sadly, however, a good proportion of Rangoon’s bow was damaged last year when a ship was anchored on it, says Muthucumarana who calls for better awareness among the law implementing agencies about these shipwrecks which are not only an integral part of marine archaeology but also a vital tourism-generating source.

Pic credit: Rasika

Muthucumarana, Dr Malik

Fernando, Ghosts of the

Deep- Diving the shipwrecks of

Sri Lanka

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Life style

Julie Chung’s graceful goodbye

Published

5 days ago

2026/01/11

Thilina Walpola

Chung

Last chapter in Colombo

Elegant, articulate and amiable, U.S. Ambassador to Sri Lanka Julie Chung reaches the end of her term, with the quiet confidence of a woman who has shaped diplomacy across continents.

In this interview, she speaks with emotional clarity and stately restraint, offering insights shaped by memory, responsibility and a deep respect for the human stories behind public life.

A diplomat of distinction and a fashion icon in her own right, she embodies a modern elegance where intellect meets instinct and presence becomes power. She speaks of her time in Sri Lanka not as a posting, but as a chapter of memory, reflecting with grace on the experiences she will carry forward—memories woven with diplomacy, style and a deep affection for a place that became more than a destination.

As she says goodbye, Julie Chung carries with her not just memories but the very essence of the island: the warmth of its people, the quiet beauty of its moments, and a grace that will remain long after she has left. With an international career spanning Asia, Latin America, the Middle East and Washington D.C., she embodies modern diplomacy—polished, perceptive and quietly powerful. She leaves Colombo shaped by its people, moments and connections.

Q: Ambassador, as your tenure in Sri Lanka comes to a close, what moments during your posting stand out the most for you personally and professionally?

A: Celebrating the 75th anniversary of our bilateral relationship was a watershed moment and a time to reflect upon all that we’ve accomplished together- from maritime security partnerships to trade to youth engagement. Opening a beautiful, new U.S. Embassy building was also a highlight, a place where we could really come together and build a community, host our American Centre, and a physical symbol of our efforts to deepen our presence in Sri Lanka. A personal highlight was scuba diving at various wreck sites, including the Godawaya shipwreck from which artifacts were preserved through the U.S. Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, and marveling at the underwater heritage of Sri Lanka.

Q: How would you describe your overall experience living and working in Sri Lanka?

A: I’ve seen many challenges and difficulties that Sri Lanka has gone through during my tenure, but so much joy, resilience, and pride too. Sri Lankans are very proud of their tourism sites, foods, and cultural heritage- and rightfully so! I saw my role as a bridge builder between our two countries professionally, and I absorbed everything I could personally as well to delve into Sri Lankan culture. And the food–anyone who knows me knows that I have traversed the island trying and loving the amazing food here. From Jaffna crab to lamprais, I am going to go through serious spice withdrawal when I leave. My family enjoyed exploring so much of Sri Lanka with me, and even Martha, my dog loved her walks around Colombo!

: At the top of Pidurutalagala enjoying the amazing view of Sigiriya

Batik U.S. flag created by U.S. Embassy staff

Q What challenges did you face in strengthening US-Lanka relations and how were they overcome?

A: One of the challenges was to overcome misperceptions and misinformation about the United States and personal attacks on me. Holding this position invites a lot of attention and scrutiny, and I got my fair share of that while navigating through the public spotlight. I tried to share my personal stories, relay official positions clearly, and be authentic to the Sri Lankan public, not just as an ambassador but as a human being, a wife, and mother. I sought to engage directly with many communities across the island, not just government-to-government but truly people-to-people, speaking directly with farmers, entrepreneurs, students, speaking to them on my role and the United States role in Sri Lanka. It was not always easy, but I appreciated the candidness of everyone I met. As a Christian, it was also important for me to find places of worship to have fellowship which helped me stay faithful and resilient during the challenging times.

Q: Can you share an example of a cultural exchange, a people-to-people initiative that particularly resonated with you?

A: The return of the Peace Corps to Sri Lanka after a long hiatus was one of my proudest moments. I met young Americans willing to put in the work to learn Sinhala and Tamil, assimilate with local families, teach English at local schools—and in the process, learn from their students, too. It goes to the heart of what the Peace Corps was created to do–bringing Americans and communities together through service, learning, and shared understanding.

Q: Sri Lanka is known for its vibrant culture. Did your experience here influence your personal life or style?

A: I loved learning about the arts in Sri Lanka. I’ve attended the annual Kala Pola art fair where I could interact with both seasoned and up and coming artists and made a few purchases myself. I learned about Sri Lanka’s unique batik making culture and integrated various modern takes to batik design in clothes I wear. Our embassy community visited Sonali Dharmawardena’s batik workshop to learn first-hand about batik making and created a beautiful American flag artwork that hangs inside our embassy now.

: Selfie with Sri Lankan student basketball players during the U.S. Embassy sports envoy program

: Enjoying a cup of tea with fellow climbers at Sri Pada

: Diving at the Godawaya shipwreck which was conserved through U.S. support

Q: Who were your favourite designers or fashion experiences that stood out to you during your time here?

A I’ve loved admiring and showcasing so many talented local designers here, who also became my close friends. I consider them artists more than designers because it really is artistry and it comes from their hearts, reflecting who they are as individuals. Sonali Dharmawardhana, Charini Suriyage, Darshi Keerthisena, Kamil Hewavitharana, and Sammani Pathiranagama have been some of my favorites! I leave with a very full suitcase and I can’t wait to share my love of Sri Lankan design with Americans.

Q How did participating in Sri Lanka’s cultural and social events help in strengthening diplomatic relationships?

Two U.S. C-130s supported cyclone Ditwah response by transporting donated goods across the country

A Diplomacy is not just about having official meetings but diving into a country’s culture and personality; it provides us a deeper understanding and at the same time offers an opportunity to share the immense richness of American culture as well. When we invited our sports diplomacy ambassadors and arts envoys to come to Sri Lanka, it created avenues for more people-to-people connections. Every conversation I had, every trip I took, and every photo I snapped created that tapestry that led to my love for Sri Lanka. I took part in Sri Lanka’s social and cultural events while also creating opportunities for others to engage with American arts and culture.

Q: Were there moments in Colombo’s social scene that brought you joy or surprise?

A: I really enjoyed attending the Royal Thomian cricket match! It was my first ever cricket match and was so exciting to see the fans, the festive mood, and I joined along with the dancing, too. It was nice to see people from all walks of life and political factions come together in such a way for the love of the game.

Q: What memory of Sri Lanka will you carry with you forever?

A: One memory I will always carry with me is how Sri Lankans came together to support one another during the tragic period following Cyclone Ditwah. I was deeply moved by the compassion and solidarity shown at the community level. When we were able to offer $2 million in humanitarian aid and bring two C130 airplanes to deliver supplies, it really made me proud. Personally taking part in some of those flights and talking to the military forces and local communities was memorable. As a diplomat, I believe it’s important we get involved hands-on and not just watch from afar. Seeing Americans and Sri Lankans working side by side, physically unloading goods off of our planes was a powerful reminder that in difficult moments, our partnership is strongest, and that the friendship between our two countries is built on ordinary people and shared values.

Q: If you could relive one day of your tenure here, which day would it be and why?

A: It would be to climb back up to the peak of Sri Pada again with my husband and see the sun rising above the mountains and the shadows of the temple, and take in the natural glory of that moment in such a special cultural place. It was not just the natural beauty, but the friendliness of the pilgrims and fellow climbers who encouraged each other, even me, as I took on that climb. Moments along the journey—sharing a cup of tea or listening to someone’s story—kept me energized.

Q: What are the strongest impressions of Sri Lanka that you will take back with you?

A: Sri Lanka is such a diverse island- from its landscape and tourism sites to its religions, ethnicities, and cuisines. I say this often, it is a magical island that bursts with passion, energy, and a richness that makes every part of the country feel distinct yet deeply connected. I travelled throughout Sri Lanka, by boats, cars, planes, and trains – the sounds, smells, and beauty will stay with me forever.

Q: How would you describe the spirit of the Sri Lankan people to friends and colleagues abroad?

A: The spirit of Sri Lankans is definitely something I’ve come to learn about and admire so much – it goes beyond resilience during tough periods and is reflected in the humor and creativity of its people and traditions. That can be seen through the arts, literature, and even political cartoons. The Sri Lankan people are amazing and have given me memories that will last a lifetime. I am grateful for my time here and will carry it with me always.

By Zanita Careem ✍️

Life style

Gilded glamour at Grand Kandyan

Published

5 days ago

2026/01/11

Thilina Walpola

Celebrations with grandeur

The Grand Kandyan transformed into a sanctuary of elegance this past New Year’s Eve, hosting a spectacular gala dinner dance that seamlessly blended tradition with high-energy celebration.

From the moment guests arrived, they were swept into a world of luxury. The hotel and ballroom were meticulously decorated, setting a festive tone that promised an unforgettable night. The evening commenced with a sophisticated cocktail hour in the lobby, where guests mingled before being ushered into the majestic Royal Peacock Ballroom for the main event.

A Symphony of Black and Gold

The ballroom was a sight to behold, draped in a striking theme of black and gold. The color palette exuded sophistication, providing a glittering backdrop for the night’s festivities.

Lavish international buffet

Taking charge of the evening’s proceedings was the charismatic Javed Bongso, whose expert compering kept the energy high. The musical heartbeat of the night was provided by the popular band Lunu Dehi, whose infectious performance immediately filled the dance floor. As the night progressed, DJ Harsha took over the decks, keeping the crowd moving with a seamless mix of floor-fillers.

Prizes and Pageantry

The gala was punctuated by moments of excitement and engagement. Beyond the music, guests participated in:

Multiple Raffle Draws: Featuring a variety of high-value prizes.

Interactive Games: Engaging the audience and adding a touch of playful competition.

Grand Giveaways: Ensuring many guests walked away with more than just memories.

A highlight of the evening was the prestigious crowning of the “Grand Kandyan Queen,” a moment of true pageantry that added a layer of classic glamour to the night’s program.

A Culinary Masterpiece

No celebration at The Grand Kandyan would be complete without a culinary showcase. Guests were treated to a lavish international buffet, specifically decorated for the occasion.

A Global Family Celebration

The Grand Kandyan hotel General Manager, . Thusith Samaraweera, remarked on how wonderful it was to see a vibrant mixture of local and foreign guests coming together. He noted that seeing everyone ushering in the New Year alongside the “Grand Kandyan family” was the perfect embodiment of the hotel’s spirit of hospitality.

The night concluded as a resounding success, marking the start of 2026 with style, spirit, and community.

Life style

“Best International Hotel for Weddings” at Travel+Leisure India’s Best Awards 2025

Published

5 days ago

2026/01/11

Thilina Walpola

Saman Villa

Jetwing Saman Villas, part of Jetwing Luxury Reserves, has been awarded “Best International Hotel for Weddings” at the 14th edition of Travel+Leisure India & South Asia’s Best Awards, held on December 16, 2025, in New Delhi. This prestigious accolade celebrates the resort’s exceptional ability to create unforgettable wedding experiences, placing Sri Lanka firmly on the global map as a leading destination for romance.

The annual India’s Best Awards, driven by reader votes, honours excellence across the travel spectrum, from hotels and destinations to wellness retreats and culinary experiences. This year’s theme, “Passports to Possibility,” highlighted the transformative power of travel and brought together global hospitality leaders for an evening of recognition and inspiration.

Perched on a dramatic cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean, the 27-suite resort is Sri Lanka’s pioneering luxury boutique hotel and a haven for intimate celebrations. The property offers one of the most unique settings on the island: a garden on a rock surrounded by nothing but incredible ocean views. From pre-wedding rituals to gourmet receptions, the property specializes in intimate weddings that feel truly exclusive and deeply personal. Beyond the ceremony, Jetwing Saman Villas doubles as an idyllic honeymoon retreat, offering luxurious private-pool suites, indulgent spa rituals, and romantic dining experiences under starlit skies, making it the perfect beginning to a lifelong journey together.

“We are truly honoured to bring this recognition to Sri Lanka,” said Hashan Cooray, Director of Marketing and Development at Jetwing Hotels. “As the country’s first and leading boutique hotel, this award reinforces Sri Lanka’s true potential as a premier destination for romance and weddings.”

Farrel Blom, General Manager of Jetwing Saman Villas, added, “Weddings are deeply personal, and for us, it’s never just about one evening, but it’s about creating an experience that feels like home. Many couples stay with us for several days, allowing us to be part of their story. Seeing them return for holidays and hearing their heartfelt feedback is the greatest reward.”

With a legacy spanning over half a century in the tourism industry, Jetwing Hotels has established itself as a pioneer in curating unique experiences and offering the best of legendary Sri Lankan hospitality, with the values of passion, humility, tenacity, and the spirit of family being at its core. As a family-owned brand, Jetwing Hotels continues to be a leading advocate for sustainability and responsible tourism, with ongoing initiatives focused on community upliftment, environmental conservation, and resource efficiency. With over 35 properties across the island, the brand’s diverse portfolio includes a range of Luxury Reserves, Premium Hotels, Select Hotels, and Essentials, each offering a unique perspective on Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage and natural beauty.